Spot on, Alan - this kind of work just takes time and it's time well spent once you see the final result! Love the colour too - very similar to what I'm planning for my 4EFTE-powered Morris Mini van :)
I liked your reply to the question: how do I speed up this job. There isn't a way to speed it up if you desire a nice job. The time needs to be put into the job and that's it, it doesn't get done any other way. Yes experience helps a lot, but you have to spend the time to acquire that, no free lunch. Thanks for the tips, especially on bending all the angles to help see which one works the best. J
Good question Ron, I don't really have one. It is more of a case by case basis for me. "As much as I can" would be as close as I can say. The front mount on this application ended up with about 1/8" all said and done. Tighter than I intended but since the line is mounted to the Combo Valve, and then has a clamp right after the body mount, I'm not too worried about it. Otherwise I'd say that is too close in most cases. I was concerned about the body mount on the cab and its proximity to the line. Without the cab I couldn't verify so went as tight as I could manage (and ended up tighter than I set out for). If I'd planned ahead a little more I may have drilled a hole and installed a Bulkhead fitting to avoid the situation entirely (And a second larger hole in the other side of the mount).
Alan - Well done! Your work is inspirational and awesome! Quick question, are AN fittings the only fittings that can be used or recommended when using stainless steel lines (w/ 37 degree flaring)?
Another jam packed video with good info. LMAO on 37 degree comment for brake line DOT no-no’s. You left off you list; nuclear submarines, space shuttle, aircraft carriers and drones but who’s counting! Recreational boats are regulated by the USCG, a bunch of barnacle covered crusty old sea dogs w/parrot poop on their lapels, who wisely chose not to allow electric fuel pumps inside boat gas tanks. “Rrr, they will explode! So a mechanical fuel pump draws fuel thru a check valve at the end of a tube, it enters a float bowl passed a needle to allow air to settle out, 2-4 filters, then a $700 high pressure pump pushes fuel thru the injectors when opened. Un-used fuel returns to the float bowl. Amazing engineering! Not! Dealers use the hydraulic tool to form proper flares for the job at hand. I really like the little belt sander used in your other videos, and the nut-sert tool holds on roof racks. Thanks for sharing you wit, wisdom, clean shop and your dad from time to time. Hope all is well!
Whats wrong with double flaring ss line. I've done some in past. The odd time I get cracks on inside i figured it was from over tightening flaring tool to much. And helped when adding some kinda lub to cone.
You just answered your own question. The cracking is because Stainless is just too hard and is not intended to be double flared. You could be getting micro cracks and not even noticing, creating possible future failures. Companies that sell double flared stainless lines anneal the stainless for that process, and I don’t agree with doing it either way.
Want to 3D Print your own clamps? You can find the designs on my Thingiverse Page for FREE, follow my Links Page to get them today: www.hotrodhippie.com/links
Great vid man, very clear and to the point. Btw what type of tube cutter are you using? I’m using a rigid stainless tube cutter but it takes forever to cut that thing.
I just use pretty generic cutters. They take a while but get the job done. I keep thinking about investing in fancier ones but the ones I have keep getting the job done. Thank you 🙏
Looking to buy a 3/16” inverted flare brake line bulkhead pass-thru fitting, double ended. My 67 C10 has the combination valve mounted on the booster, under the master cylinder. I have a 1/4” line for the rear but two SS hard lines with flexible hose in the center. They are covered with braided SS over the flex line. With headers inside the frame and open to the wheel house outside, I wanted to drill & pass-thru the frame. No one makes these! They all have “AN” fittings on one end. I think grommets will be used. Shame as they look nice, new, perfect length and one bend, but reach the frame and terminate. I looked thru your website, Summit, Speedway (50 miles from mailbox) but nothing. Thoughts? Thanks Retired Tech.
Want to 3D Print your own Brake Line Clamps? You can find those designs and MORE on my Thangs Page: thangs.com/MandicReally
Good job 👍
Thank you very much. 👍🏻👍🏻
Spot on, Alan - this kind of work just takes time and it's time well spent once you see the final result!
Love the colour too - very similar to what I'm planning for my 4EFTE-powered Morris Mini van :)
Nice work! Thanks
Thank you very much
Love the channel and all the great information and content. Definitely reference your videos for tackling my own projects! Keep it up!
very nice results
I liked your reply to the question: how do I speed up this job. There isn't a way to speed it up if you desire a nice job. The time needs to be put into the job and that's it, it doesn't get done any other way. Yes experience helps a lot, but you have to spend the time to acquire that, no free lunch. Thanks for the tips, especially on bending all the angles to help see which one works the best. J
Everyone wants to know the shortcuts. Heck I'd love to know some too. There is just no replacement for slow and steady effort. Thanks
Awesome thank you.
Very helpful!!
Very well done, Alan, and I like the color. What is the minimum clearance you use between hard lines and obstructions like the body mounts?
Good question Ron, I don't really have one. It is more of a case by case basis for me. "As much as I can" would be as close as I can say. The front mount on this application ended up with about 1/8" all said and done. Tighter than I intended but since the line is mounted to the Combo Valve, and then has a clamp right after the body mount, I'm not too worried about it. Otherwise I'd say that is too close in most cases. I was concerned about the body mount on the cab and its proximity to the line. Without the cab I couldn't verify so went as tight as I could manage (and ended up tighter than I set out for). If I'd planned ahead a little more I may have drilled a hole and installed a Bulkhead fitting to avoid the situation entirely (And a second larger hole in the other side of the mount).
Great video! Much good info. Was wondering why you ran the brake lines on the outside of the frame, instead on the inside where they are protected?
Alan - Well done! Your work is inspirational and awesome! Quick question, are AN fittings the only fittings that can be used or recommended when using stainless steel lines (w/ 37 degree flaring)?
Another jam packed video with good info. LMAO on 37 degree comment for brake line DOT no-no’s. You left off you list; nuclear submarines, space shuttle, aircraft carriers and drones but who’s counting! Recreational boats are regulated by the USCG, a bunch of barnacle covered crusty old sea dogs w/parrot poop on their lapels, who wisely chose not to allow electric fuel pumps inside boat gas tanks. “Rrr, they will explode! So a mechanical fuel pump draws fuel thru a check valve at the end of a tube, it enters a float bowl passed a needle to allow air to settle out, 2-4 filters, then a $700 high pressure pump pushes fuel thru the injectors when opened. Un-used fuel returns to the float bowl. Amazing engineering! Not! Dealers use the hydraulic tool to form proper flares for the job at hand. I really like the little belt sander used in your other videos, and the nut-sert tool holds on roof racks. Thanks for sharing you wit, wisdom, clean shop and your dad from time to time. Hope all is well!
Whats wrong with double flaring ss line. I've done some in past. The odd time I get cracks on inside i figured it was from over tightening flaring tool to much. And helped when adding some kinda lub to cone.
You just answered your own question. The cracking is because Stainless is just too hard and is not intended to be double flared. You could be getting micro cracks and not even noticing, creating possible future failures. Companies that sell double flared stainless lines anneal the stainless for that process, and I don’t agree with doing it either way.
Want to 3D Print your own clamps? You can find the designs on my Thingiverse Page for FREE, follow my Links Page to get them today: www.hotrodhippie.com/links
That link comes up as a 404 page not found.
@@normhowes2975 thank you for the heads up. It apparently really cared about whether I typed “Http” or “HTTPS” 🤷🏻🤷🏻 Should work now.
@@HotRodHippie Now it works Thank You
Do you have the link to all the fittings you used?
Thanks
Pretty impressive….
Great vid man, very clear and to the point. Btw what type of tube cutter are you using? I’m using a rigid stainless tube cutter but it takes forever to cut that thing.
I just use pretty generic cutters. They take a while but get the job done. I keep thinking about investing in fancier ones but the ones I have keep getting the job done. Thank you 🙏
Swagelok makes stainless cutting wheels, if you change the standard wheel out with one of them, it'll cut like butter!
Welcome back to nc....bugatti blue.
Thank you very much. Does have a bit of that going on. That's what I'll tell folks. 😂
Looking to buy a 3/16” inverted flare brake line bulkhead pass-thru fitting, double ended.
My 67 C10 has the combination valve mounted on the booster, under the master cylinder. I have a 1/4” line for the rear but two SS hard lines with flexible hose in the center. They are covered with braided SS over the flex line. With headers inside the frame and open to the wheel house outside, I wanted to drill & pass-thru the frame. No one makes these! They all have “AN” fittings on one end. I think grommets will be used. Shame as they look nice, new, perfect length and one bend, but reach the frame and terminate. I looked thru your website, Summit, Speedway (50 miles from mailbox) but nothing. Thoughts? Thanks Retired Tech.