Cool vid, good taste in cars I see behind you there. I was just thinking of commenting on the lack of grease in the diff when, ‘I’m just going to put some grease in the diff’. Ok, shutup Pablo!
Nice soldering jig! I should have one of those judging by the amount of times I burnt my fingers, ha ha ha! Looks like a cool fun vehicle, even if it's a new chassis, it shouldn't forget its Roots, bloody roots... Best I could come up with for a Sepultura joke, sorry...
Thanks mate. It's actually far too light for my liking. I had it stuck to the bench with double sided tape to stop it moving around. I might screw it to something heavier or just make another one. Yeah I think it'll be fun to drive. Haha, nicely done mate 😂. You always manage to come up with something good! 😁👍
They do look great and such a unique chassis. I'm not a huge F1 fan but had to have this one. I like the Tamiya XB models I just wish they'd put bearings in all of them. 👍
Nice work Mick. Surprisingly awkward to fit the bits in as you'd imagine there was a load of room in there. You made soldering that deans look so easy. I usually end up melting the plug before the wire actually sticks. Anyway good stuff 🙂
Thanks Pete! Yeah it's tight, would have been a real pain with the old receivers being 3 times the size lol. Thanks mate. Usually if your melting plugs before the solder melts, your iron isn't hot enough. A higher wattage iron would help, then you can get in there quick an melt the solder before the entire plug heats up. I used to have that problem when using 25w and 30w irons. The one I use now is 60w. I'd go for a 60w minimum for Deans and XT type connectors. Cheers mate! 👍
@@RCHobbyShed Ok thanks Mick. I was thinking that it must be the rubbish soldering iron rather than me not knowing what I'm doing! I shall investigate a new one. Cheers 🙂
@@PeteWylieRC Haha, I doubt it's you mate. I think in this case it's quite OK to blame the tools lol. Also, if you're using lead free solder try going back to lead/tin solder if you can find it. I've found lead free solder is a bit hit n miss. Seem ok for small stuff but can be harder to melt on bigger things, at least in my experience. 👍
Interesting looking car Mick, thanks for showing the close up of the steering and everything👍 I'm glad you were gentle with your balls and didn't lose any!😳. I've had my eye on them and am curious to see how it goes. Thanks for sharing your interesting video Mick👍🍻🦘🇦🇺
I think so too mate, no probs at all! At my age it pays to be gentle with my balls 😂. You had your eyes on my balls? Ohhh the car, righto! 🤣 Yeah it will be interesting! I am wondering if I should have still put the receiver up the front, it may help with weight over the front wheels. As it is, there really isn't much weight at the front. We'll see I guess! Glad you enjoyed the video mate! 👍
@@RCHobbyShed Hahahaaaa yeh I read it before hitting send and thought the same but I guess I'm busted, those Ball diffs are a bit of an eye catcher 😂 Some stick on lead wheel weights up front might help?
@@outbackrcaustralia4895 Haha, yeah busted! I'm thinking I may take a weight to the track when I run just in case it's needed. I did notice just sitting on the bench, not all of the front tyres are in complete contact with the bench. I forgot to check while the battery was in it though. The weight thing did cross my mind when moving the receiver but I figured it's only a few grams. I guess we'll find out on the day! 👍
@@RCHobbyShed I love the history of this car. There's quite a few crazy stories. When interviewed, the only F1 driver to ever win with this car simply said..."it had a lot of problems" - but man does it look cool!
Hi Mick, the Tyrrell is looking ready for some action now. Nice soldering too! 😊😉😊 wiring all nice a neat, and a nice job mounting the ESC and receiver in the compact, streamlined chassis. Next stop a nice track or flat surface for some F1 testing. Talking of F1, next race, Melbourne! Take care and best wishes 😉😊😉
G'day John! Yeah it's ready to go, should be great fun. Will also be interesting to see how it steers. Thanks mate! I'm kind of wondering if the receiver may have been better at the front for weight distribution, I guess we'll find out on the track. Although I won't be going to nuts with it. I'm really just hoping to get some nice footage of it on a track, should be fun too. Cheers mate! 🙂👍
Top stuff Mick, I have to do this to the wife's mf01 beetle. Nice car no bearings. Nearly finished the optima, just painted it white and used the decals . Not perfect but good enough, smoked the windows because of no driver with the hobbywing esc. It runs perfect, I love the steering on this Tyrell , great looking car and should be a fun thing to drive. Have to work on the TFL pursuit and the thunder tiger atlantic is going 6s . Was going to use the stock 4mm drive shaft but the couplings they send are junk, drilled off center so the motor wants to jump out of the boat. I've ordered a flex cable and stuffing tube with a strut and rudder assembly. Can tune the boat as well. Nice work mate, it's going to be great to see this beast running.
Thanks mate! I gotta do it to my FAV and Hornet too, bought them years ago but never drove them because they had no bearings lol. Oh nice, I think those decals look quite good. Painting an Optima is a real pain, so I'll probably just use the decals on mine too. I knew you'd like the Optima, they're a great buggy. Yeah the Tyrrell should be pretty cool to drive. Hoping to get it to the track soon and get some nice video of it. Sounds like you're pretty busy with the boats mate, good stuff. The 6s one will be a beast! Cheers mate, yeah it should be fun! 👍
@@RCHobbyShed I saw you paint an optima and thought no way too much for me . I'll get the wife to upload more pictures when she gets back from Adelaide. I'll probably test the pursuit with trim tabs tomorrow. Wife has the standard pursuit and that was perfect out of the box. Had to order the drive system from China for the Atlantic, no room on the transom so had to use a strut and rudder all in one assembly that no one has here . Cheap enough, $58 for the whole lot with cable and stuffing tube. Will probably take a month to get here but don't have a choice. Need to build an old jaws boat but make it a beast. Ha,ha
Really nice RC and very instructive video . I’d love this rc but I honestly don’t think I’ve anywhere to run it . I bet it needs a super smooth surface .
Are the bearings a loose fit in the wheel or on the axle stub? Of they’re loose on the wheel, you could try taking some Teflon thread sealing tape and do a wrap once or twice around the outer race of the bearing, then press that into the wheel. Make sure the bearing is real clean using alcohol. It would likely be a bit tedious but may make a more snug fit. Trim excess after etc.
Thanks mate, I think it's a great looking car. It will be interesting to see how it steers, hopefully not like a shopping cart lol. Oh nice, I remember looking at the Road Wizard in the Tamiya guide books. They look awesome too! 👍
I think it should be fun, hoping it's not twitchy with all that front traction. The chassis is FRP, but looks like carbon on camera. I think it looks great too. 👍
Hey Mick - I’m tempted with one of these. I only run NIMH batteries and it seems you need a ‘small’ version to fit. Any idea what this means as all 7.2v would be same length and the humped versions wouldn’t fit?
Hi Chris! I've not tried a NiMh in this one but the LiPo almost fits, it's really close and I know the standard NiMh is smaller so I would think there would be no issue using a standard 7.2v NiMh stick pack. I have seen the new Argentine 1977 version has a different battery mount and they do specify small for it too. That said I believe the battery mount on the Argentine version is changeable from standard size to small size (from what I've read). I would say go for it, and to answer your question, no mate a hump pack won't fit as it'll be too high but I think a standard stick pack will be fine although it maybe tight. Update: I measured the space for the battery, it's around L135mm x W47mm x H27mm Hope this helps! 👍
@@Chris-sd6os No probs at all! I had planned to get this out for a run sooner but with the dodgy weather and other things popping up it hasn't happened. You got me thinking now though, I may run it on NiMh. Less chance of damage if I have a prang and then we can both see if the battery fits! lol. Oh I hear ya, buying kits can really hurt the wallet. I guess we could spend it on worse things though. 🙂👍
Hey Mick- nice work! Nerd question alert! - could you shim the ball joints out on the back of the front hubs of the 2nd axle to increase push/pull on the 1st axle? -just to increase that front axle steering radius to avoid tyres dragging? - haven't handled that car in person and I'm curious :)
G'day Ben, thanks mate! Lol it's all good mate. Yes it can be done! The tie rod between each of the (front and rear) uprights uses 5mm ball joints which are screwed into the inside end of each wheel axle. So you could shim the ball joint out maybe 1-2mm. 👍
Did it come with ballbearings as standard on the rearwheel axle, and you just had to change the bearings inside the diff? I was a bit confused, as it looked like you'd need 5 to fully ballrace the rear? Other than my slight confusion, its a sweet looking ride, hope to see it do a lap or two at somepoint! :D
I really love your tshirt! One of the greatest bands ever!
Thanks Tony! Oh I agree mate! 🤘👍
Nice build! Love the Old F1 cars, before computers and wind tunnels, when the better engineer built the best
Car!
Cool vid, good taste in cars I see behind you there. I was just thinking of commenting on the lack of grease in the diff when, ‘I’m just going to put some grease in the diff’. Ok, shutup Pablo!
Thanks Pablo! Haha yeah, Tamiya weren't very generous with the diff grease. lol
Nice soldering jig! I should have one of those judging by the amount of times I burnt my fingers, ha ha ha!
Looks like a cool fun vehicle, even if it's a new chassis, it shouldn't forget its Roots, bloody roots... Best I could come up with for a Sepultura joke, sorry...
Thanks mate. It's actually far too light for my liking. I had it stuck to the bench with double sided tape to stop it moving around. I might screw it to something heavier or just make another one. Yeah I think it'll be fun to drive. Haha, nicely done mate 😂. You always manage to come up with something good! 😁👍
Tidy job Mick👍
Thanks mate! 👍
@@RCHobbyShed 👍
Good job mate! 👍🤓🇦🇺
Thanks mate! 🙂👍
Looks fantastic, cant wait for the run video.
Thanks mate. Hoping to get it to the track soon. Might take the Fantom along for the ride. 🙂👍
WOW! That looks great. It kinda makes me want to get one. I like the XB one.
They do look great and such a unique chassis. I'm not a huge F1 fan but had to have this one. I like the Tamiya XB models I just wish they'd put bearings in all of them. 👍
Good job👍. Everything fits perfect and looks good. Thanks for showing
Thanks mate! Yeah it all went in quite smoothly, which is surprising for such a narrow chassis. Cheers mate! 👍
She’s going to look great on the track! I think it has quite a nice and interesting chassis… something a bit different 👍🏻
I think so too mate. Hoping to get some nice footage of the first run. Yeah it's quite unique. 👍
@@RCHobbyShed Looking forward to it matey! 🎥
Nice work Mick. Surprisingly awkward to fit the bits in as you'd imagine there was a load of room in there. You made soldering that deans look so easy. I usually end up melting the plug before the wire actually sticks. Anyway good stuff 🙂
Thanks Pete! Yeah it's tight, would have been a real pain with the old receivers being 3 times the size lol. Thanks mate. Usually if your melting plugs before the solder melts, your iron isn't hot enough. A higher wattage iron would help, then you can get in there quick an melt the solder before the entire plug heats up. I used to have that problem when using 25w and 30w irons. The one I use now is 60w. I'd go for a 60w minimum for Deans and XT type connectors. Cheers mate! 👍
@@RCHobbyShed Ok thanks Mick. I was thinking that it must be the rubbish soldering iron rather than me not knowing what I'm doing! I shall investigate a new one. Cheers 🙂
@@PeteWylieRC Haha, I doubt it's you mate. I think in this case it's quite OK to blame the tools lol.
Also, if you're using lead free solder try going back to lead/tin solder if you can find it. I've found lead free solder is a bit hit n miss. Seem ok for small stuff but can be harder to melt on bigger things, at least in my experience. 👍
Interesting looking car Mick, thanks for showing the close up of the steering and everything👍
I'm glad you were gentle with your balls and didn't lose any!😳. I've had my eye on them and am curious to see how it goes.
Thanks for sharing your interesting video Mick👍🍻🦘🇦🇺
I think so too mate, no probs at all!
At my age it pays to be gentle with my balls 😂. You had your eyes on my balls? Ohhh the car, righto! 🤣 Yeah it will be interesting! I am wondering if I should have still put the receiver up the front, it may help with weight over the front wheels. As it is, there really isn't much weight at the front. We'll see I guess!
Glad you enjoyed the video mate! 👍
@@RCHobbyShed
Hahahaaaa yeh I read it before hitting send and thought the same but I guess I'm busted, those Ball diffs are a bit of an eye catcher 😂
Some stick on lead wheel weights up front might help?
@@outbackrcaustralia4895 Haha, yeah busted!
I'm thinking I may take a weight to the track when I run just in case it's needed. I did notice just sitting on the bench, not all of the front tyres are in complete contact with the bench. I forgot to check while the battery was in it though. The weight thing did cross my mind when moving the receiver but I figured it's only a few grams. I guess we'll find out on the day! 👍
@@RCHobbyShed Sounds like an interesting project, this could be a real ripper on the netball court.
Looks great!
I agree, I think they just look so cool. 👍
@@RCHobbyShed I love the history of this car. There's quite a few crazy stories. When interviewed, the only F1 driver to ever win with this car simply said..."it had a lot of problems" - but man does it look cool!
Hi Mick, the Tyrrell is looking ready for some action now. Nice soldering too! 😊😉😊 wiring all nice a neat, and a nice job mounting the ESC and receiver in the compact, streamlined chassis. Next stop a nice track or flat surface for some F1 testing. Talking of F1, next race, Melbourne! Take care and best wishes 😉😊😉
G'day John! Yeah it's ready to go, should be great fun. Will also be interesting to see how it steers. Thanks mate! I'm kind of wondering if the receiver may have been better at the front for weight distribution, I guess we'll find out on the track. Although I won't be going to nuts with it. I'm really just hoping to get some nice footage of it on a track, should be fun too. Cheers mate! 🙂👍
Top stuff Mick, I have to do this to the wife's mf01 beetle. Nice car no bearings. Nearly finished the optima, just painted it white and used the decals . Not perfect but good enough, smoked the windows because of no driver with the hobbywing esc. It runs perfect, I love the steering on this Tyrell , great looking car and should be a fun thing to drive. Have to work on the TFL pursuit and the thunder tiger atlantic is going 6s . Was going to use the stock 4mm drive shaft but the couplings they send are junk, drilled off center so the motor wants to jump out of the boat. I've ordered a flex cable and stuffing tube with a strut and rudder assembly. Can tune the boat as well. Nice work mate, it's going to be great to see this beast running.
Thanks mate! I gotta do it to my FAV and Hornet too, bought them years ago but never drove them because they had no bearings lol. Oh nice, I think those decals look quite good. Painting an Optima is a real pain, so I'll probably just use the decals on mine too. I knew you'd like the Optima, they're a great buggy. Yeah the Tyrrell should be pretty cool to drive. Hoping to get it to the track soon and get some nice video of it. Sounds like you're pretty busy with the boats mate, good stuff. The 6s one will be a beast!
Cheers mate, yeah it should be fun! 👍
@@RCHobbyShed I saw you paint an optima and thought no way too much for me . I'll get the wife to upload more pictures when she gets back from Adelaide. I'll probably test the pursuit with trim tabs tomorrow. Wife has the standard pursuit and that was perfect out of the box. Had to order the drive system from China for the Atlantic, no room on the transom so had to use a strut and rudder all in one assembly that no one has here . Cheap enough, $58 for the whole lot with cable and stuffing tube. Will probably take a month to get here but don't have a choice. Need to build an old jaws boat but make it a beast. Ha,ha
nice job man
Thank you! Cheers!
Really nice RC and very instructive video . I’d love this rc but I honestly don’t think I’ve anywhere to run it . I bet it needs a super smooth surface .
Thanks mate! Yeah they do need a nice smooth surface. Netball courts are good if you have one nearby. 👍
@@RCHobbyShed cheers 👍 I’ll have to scout a bit . It’s all bumpy car parks here.
I soooo want to get one of these. Only thing putting me off is how hard it might be to get replacement parts like tires and bodies
I know what you mean, Sean. There doesn't seem to be many replacement parts out there for it.
Are the bearings a loose fit in the wheel or on the axle stub? Of they’re loose on the wheel, you could try taking some Teflon thread sealing tape and do a wrap once or twice around the outer race of the bearing, then press that into the wheel. Make sure the bearing is real clean using alcohol. It would likely be a bit tedious but may make a more snug fit. Trim excess after etc.
looks great, wonder how it will run with all those wheels up front? I had the road wizard back in the day it handled awesome.
Thanks mate, I think it's a great looking car. It will be interesting to see how it steers, hopefully not like a shopping cart lol. Oh nice, I remember looking at the Road Wizard in the Tamiya guide books. They look awesome too! 👍
Should be fun to drive, steering should be interesting though. I like all that carbon fiber .
I think it should be fun, hoping it's not twitchy with all that front traction. The chassis is FRP, but looks like carbon on camera. I think it looks great too. 👍
That chassis definitely fooled me , it looks good though
@@ericwood2790 It is hard to see sometimes. I think they both look nice. I think so too mate! 👍
Hey Mick - I’m tempted with one of these. I only run NIMH batteries and it seems you need a ‘small’ version to fit. Any idea what this means as all 7.2v would be same length and the humped versions wouldn’t fit?
Hi Chris! I've not tried a NiMh in this one but the LiPo almost fits, it's really close and I know the standard NiMh is smaller so I would think there would be no issue using a standard 7.2v NiMh stick pack. I have seen the new Argentine 1977 version has a different battery mount and they do specify small for it too. That said I believe the battery mount on the Argentine version is changeable from standard size to small size (from what I've read). I would say go for it, and to answer your question, no mate a hump pack won't fit as it'll be too high but I think a standard stick pack will be fine although it maybe tight.
Update: I measured the space for the battery, it's around L135mm x W47mm x H27mm
Hope this helps! 👍
@@RCHobbyShed that’s great Mick - really appreciate the response and your time. I’ve had an expensive few months with Tamiya and Kyosho acquisitions!
@@Chris-sd6os No probs at all! I had planned to get this out for a run sooner but with the dodgy weather and other things popping up it hasn't happened. You got me thinking now though, I may run it on NiMh. Less chance of damage if I have a prang and then we can both see if the battery fits! lol.
Oh I hear ya, buying kits can really hurt the wallet. I guess we could spend it on worse things though. 🙂👍
Hey Mick- nice work! Nerd question alert! - could you shim the ball joints out on the back of the front hubs of the 2nd axle to increase push/pull on the 1st axle?
-just to increase that front axle steering radius to avoid tyres dragging? - haven't handled that car in person and I'm curious :)
G'day Ben, thanks mate! Lol it's all good mate. Yes it can be done! The tie rod between each of the (front and rear) uprights uses 5mm ball joints which are screwed into the inside end of each wheel axle. So you could shim the ball joint out maybe 1-2mm. 👍
there brass they need greasing my friend
I agree but in this video I replaced the brass bushes with ball bearings. 👍
Did it come with ballbearings as standard on the rearwheel axle, and you just had to change the bearings inside the diff? I was a bit confused, as it looked like you'd need 5 to fully ballrace the rear? Other than my slight confusion, its a sweet looking ride, hope to see it do a lap or two at somepoint! :D
That's right, it already has the 2 1260's on the rear axle. So you'll need 3 1280's for the diff and 8 850's for the front wheels. 👍
Where do you get the bearing kits?