I am a master glassmen... not a bad video but PLENTY of areas that can be improved greatly! In the beginning of the video, sorry the suggested methods leave much to improve on. First! The track incerts pack them with fiberglass molding clay. It’s quick, easy and saves you from dealing with resin problems. Filling the foil track box and insert locations should be done with plenty of resin putty. The resin putty should have a pinch of chop strand additive as well as the microballoons or cabicil whatever. The track box should be centered period pushing to any one side even a small distance is not ideal keep it concentric. Using the clay will also maximize the fiberglass bond to the track incerts, save time, and make it easy to use a blade to cut away the fiberglass when opening them. I would suggest masking the FOAM with two layers of masking tape. When sanding, clay will get dragged out, sanding away the excess squeeze out. The clay cleans with acetone or alcohol easy but NOT ideal to introduce clay to the foam due to sanding. Once the track board has been put into place with putty, a deep reach clamp or vice grip is ideal. Use a support board on the backside of the board and the other side use a small plastic block. You can also use a block of wood. Just have it masked with masking tape and use a wax release on the tape. Minimal clamping pressure please. Any squeeze out should be scraped away and wiped up. That will save on sanding time later. As to the FRP lamination, layup is not bad but razor cutting is not Ideal in the method described. I prefer to use 2” masking tape with the EDGE of the tape as the “”cut line””. Then use 1” masking tape on top of the 2” tape. Align to the EDGE line with 2-4 layers. When wetting the fiberglass lay it over the stacked masking tape. This time you can use the razor to cut sideways into the stacked tape, rather than down towards the foam, this also means you can cut deep and ensure the fibers are fully cut. After a full cure a light sanding over the tape and cut fiberglass leaves a perfect reveal. I prefer to wrap the edge of my boards with a 2” carbon fiber tape, increasing the stiffness on the second fiberglassing around. As to having PERFECT carbon on the top. SIMPLE SIMPLE SIMPLE TRICK. Use Super 77 spray tack. OR 3m General purpose spray adhesive (SAME THINGS). Lay down the carbon so its fibers are nice and straight with no kinks on a large flat surface. make sure you cover that surface with 1.5mm plastic first, the spray tack is very sticky. I add one layer of VEIL MATT to the underside of the carbon. When spraying NO DRIPS!!!! The spray tack is a contamination, but its also what is used when doing fiberglass infusion layup. Use a very very light wisp spray coat. Spray both mating surfaces the carbon and the matt only. Give the spray tack about 10-15 seconds before applying the veil matt. Lightly pad down the matt, cotton gloves work better then rubber gloves for this FYI. Once that has been done the carbon veil matt hybrid cloth can be flipped over. A pattern can be used to trace and cut to the exact dimension and shape using scissors. Be mindful when wetting out with resin, using this two layer spray tack method. Make sure the veil mat is under the carbon facing the foilboard. If it is on the top it will DULL the visual LUST of the carbon. Also keep in mind when wetting with resin the spray tack bond will fail. Be quick at the edges and don't work the material a lot, direction of pull can matter greatly at the edges.
Great video, one of the best EPS foil board build instructionals I've seen. Really covers some details that are easy to miss and other videos didn't cover. I would've put a layer of glass over the carbon to protect it when sanding, but otherwise solid video. I look forward to getting one of your foil kits after I get a few boards built. Rock on.
I have done that before and did not like how it came out, especially if you sand into the glass. I have found it is best to double coat the carbon area and just be really careful when sanding.
the only thing i would do is not cut the carbon reinforcement straight to prevent the board don’t break in this point. the right thing would be that, in the reinforcements, the cuts are triangular or rounded. but congratulations on the good work and very well explained
Really the carbon is just for looks. It really serves no structural purpose. I had glassed up and used boards without the carbon and they were great. It's a great looking way to cover up the track box and give the board some looks!
Such a small board may require footstraps. Do you have a diy video for putting embedding those nuts in. Or, as i have to, how do you add footstraps to an existing board?
Working on that currently. Unfortunately there is a bit of a resin shortage at the moment so lead times for foam are months out... Early next year I plan to have some larger foil boards as well as some SUPs
Really the only reason for the carbon fiber is to hide the track mounts/ box. Cosmetically it looks good. It does add some added strength to the track area, but it goes on last to cover up the mounting area.
A dedicated person can do it within a weekend... Most of the time is spent waiting for epoxy to cure. The actual "work" part is probably a few hours combined.
I am a master glassmen... not a bad video but PLENTY of areas that can be improved greatly! In the beginning of the video, sorry the suggested methods leave much to improve on. First! The track incerts pack them with fiberglass molding clay. It’s quick, easy and saves you from dealing with resin problems. Filling the foil track box and insert locations should be done with plenty of resin putty. The resin putty should have a pinch of chop strand additive as well as the microballoons or cabicil whatever. The track box should be centered period pushing to any one side even a small distance is not ideal keep it concentric. Using the clay will also maximize the fiberglass bond to the track incerts, save time, and make it easy to use a blade to cut away the fiberglass when opening them. I would suggest masking the FOAM with two layers of masking tape. When sanding, clay will get dragged out, sanding away the excess squeeze out. The clay cleans with acetone or alcohol easy but NOT ideal to introduce clay to the foam due to sanding. Once the track board has been put into place with putty, a deep reach clamp or vice grip is ideal. Use a support board on the backside of the board and the other side use a small plastic block. You can also use a block of wood. Just have it masked with masking tape and use a wax release on the tape. Minimal clamping pressure please. Any squeeze out should be scraped away and wiped up. That will save on sanding time later. As to the FRP lamination, layup is not bad but razor cutting is not Ideal in the method described. I prefer to use 2” masking tape with the EDGE of the tape as the “”cut line””. Then use 1” masking tape on top of the 2” tape. Align to the EDGE line with 2-4 layers. When wetting the fiberglass lay it over the stacked masking tape. This time you can use the razor to cut sideways into the stacked tape, rather than down towards the foam, this also means you can cut deep and ensure the fibers are fully cut. After a full cure a light sanding over the tape and cut fiberglass leaves a perfect reveal. I prefer to wrap the edge of my boards with a 2” carbon fiber tape, increasing the stiffness on the second fiberglassing around. As to having PERFECT carbon on the top. SIMPLE SIMPLE SIMPLE TRICK. Use Super 77 spray tack. OR 3m General purpose spray adhesive (SAME THINGS). Lay down the carbon so its fibers are nice and straight with no kinks on a large flat surface. make sure you cover that surface with 1.5mm plastic first, the spray tack is very sticky. I add one layer of VEIL MATT to the underside of the carbon. When spraying NO DRIPS!!!! The spray tack is a contamination, but its also what is used when doing fiberglass infusion layup. Use a very very light wisp spray coat. Spray both mating surfaces the carbon and the matt only. Give the spray tack about 10-15 seconds before applying the veil matt. Lightly pad down the matt, cotton gloves work better then rubber gloves for this FYI. Once that has been done the carbon veil matt hybrid cloth can be flipped over. A pattern can be used to trace and cut to the exact dimension and shape using scissors. Be mindful when wetting out with resin, using this two layer spray tack method. Make sure the veil mat is under the carbon facing the foilboard. If it is on the top it will DULL the visual LUST of the carbon. Also keep in mind when wetting with resin the spray tack bond will fail. Be quick at the edges and don't work the material a lot, direction of pull can matter greatly at the edges.
Great video, one of the best EPS foil board build instructionals I've seen. Really covers some details that are easy to miss and other videos didn't cover. I would've put a layer of glass over the carbon to protect it when sanding, but otherwise solid video. I look forward to getting one of your foil kits after I get a few boards built.
Rock on.
I have done that before and did not like how it came out, especially if you sand into the glass. I have found it is best to double coat the carbon area and just be really careful when sanding.
the only thing i would do is not cut the carbon reinforcement straight to prevent the board don’t break in this point. the right thing would be that, in the reinforcements, the cuts are triangular or rounded. but congratulations on the good work and very well explained
Really the carbon is just for looks. It really serves no structural purpose. I had glassed up and used boards without the carbon and they were great. It's a great looking way to cover up the track box and give the board some looks!
It's a very good tutorial. I just did not understand how many layers of glass do you put on the board?
I outline how many layers go where on an instructional sheet that comes with the board blank.
Great video. My concern was not having any stringer and just the foam, that it might be weak. It's not necessary, right?
You can just use baby powder to thickening the resin, much cheap and easier to get
I have heard of using things like this. Great tip for the homebuilders!
What is your shipping lead time on board blanks and foil kits? Is it really possible to go prone on the 3'11"?
Such a small board may require footstraps. Do you have a diy video for putting embedding those nuts in. Or, as i have to, how do you add footstraps to an existing board?
I will be uploading a new build video for a new board design soon. It shows how to add inserts!
Excellent tutorial! Did you use a sanding additive, like Additive-F, to your epoxy sand coat resin?
I do not. From what I have read it is not the best for you health wise. Also, I find it easy to sand without it anyways.
great video, thanks. Can I ask what kind of fiber glass did you use?
4 oz E glass.
Grear, I would buy such a kit, but in more a beginner size.... like 6ft. And also make a choice for full carbon. Please consider. Nice vid though.
Noted! Hopefully more sizes and shapes will come in the near future
Not needed to seal off the EPS before glassing? What density foam did you use?
1.8lb foam. Never had any issues doing it as seen in this video... I put these boards through an awful lot of abuse.
Do you have bigger volume kits?? at least 5 or 6 ft for a begginer board?
Working on that currently. Unfortunately there is a bit of a resin shortage at the moment so lead times for foam are months out... Early next year I plan to have some larger foil boards as well as some SUPs
why did you decide to use the carbon fiber on the final layer as apposed to the first?
Really the only reason for the carbon fiber is to hide the track mounts/ box. Cosmetically it looks good. It does add some added strength to the track area, but it goes on last to cover up the mounting area.
Thanks !
what the name of this black white fabric
Black fabric is Carbon Fiber. The white is fiberglass
Hey i also want to build one board. I dont need a Sandwich ore more carbon? What foam did u take?
My blanks are made from 1.8 lb foam.
Awesome!
how long those it take to make all this plus foil
?
A dedicated person can do it within a weekend... Most of the time is spent waiting for epoxy to cure. The actual "work" part is probably a few hours combined.