This has become my favorite series. And now I’ve purchases an airbrush from you! Thanks for the tone. It’s helpful, informative and matter of fact. Very well done.
Hi Warwick I'm a new starter to the airbrushing world and I'm under the wing of Rob dred fx custom paints, I've had a lengthy chat with him last night and he's practically ordered me to purchase the new ultra as he's blown away with it so that's good enough for me so ordering one at the end of the month when I get paid , a big thumbs up from me on your channel 👍👍
@@harderairbrush thankyou I was following an american guy on u tube who sprayed directly from his garage ,being a painter for many yrs I was very sceptical but thought why not I'll give a garage paint job a go and it came out nice just a denib and a buff after and made £1.200 on it 😉😉😉 thanks again Warwick 🙂
Great video Warwick. I only have a cheap A-186 compressor, with a tank, that came with two cheap air brushes (0.3 side feed and 0.4 siphon feed) I used the 0.4 for priming, and the 0.3 for spraying colours on my miniature figures, and Camo on airfix planes. After a year of learning what each one did, (and didn't do), I found it was easy to keep the air brushes clean by flushing & brushing, rather than stripping down. I have since got another cheap airbrush (0.3), but a top loading gravity feed, and I could not believe how much easier it was to clean out at the end of a session, I have not had to strip this one down more than twice is 6 months. My airbrushing is getting better, now so next birthday I may treat myself to a H&S. Please keep these videos coming as I find them most useful.
Hey buddy - glad that you're airbrushing regularly. We'd be happy to have you join us as an H&S user. There are some great new things to tempt you coming soon :-)
I have the same compressor, I think is the most common one. However I was always using cheap airbrushes and finding it a pain to use them because how bad they worked. I just did what they mentioned in the video, I decided to spent a bit more on the airbrush than in the compressor. At the end of the day is the tool we use. Why get a cheap tool when we can get a much better one? Why overspending on everything except the important thing? My ultra is arriving soon, hopefuly this week!!
Warwick, when I started - I bought Wallpaper Lining Paper like a whole 30m roll for £8. I cut 1metre sections - put it on my desk - I then used it as a practice section - to check distances - spray pattern. It is cheap and can be great to practice, test or trial stuff. Also protects work surface. I've been so inspired by you, the H&S videos and Squidmar - I've hung up my Iwata NEO and bought a Squidmar Ultra - My wife will snaffle it and wrap it for Christmas. I cannot wait for Christmas Day and some vehicle painting.😂
Just found this channel after buying your ultra series airbrush and its a gold mine! thank you for not trying to shill out useless products that the average person wouldn't need. Great advice from this video!
Excellent video, I would love to see a video on the use of masks and respirators with the different paints it’s something I have seen people ignore.and after all we only get one set of lungs.
This is unlikely to be a video that we make, simply because I'm trying to give advice on airbrushing which gives short cuts which work. This isn't really a short cut topic! All paints by law offer advice on the bottle as to how you should deal with them. Follow that. I would say, that using a spray out pot is the single best thing you can do to mitigate this issue, whether or not you use a mask.
I took your advice from other videos and my airbrush actually worked well for like the first time ever. I've listened to other people on youtube who swear by their advice and it's given me nothing but trouble. Worst advice I've probably ever gotten was "you dont need to thin Citadel Air Paints, just crank the pressure up to 30 psi" it was clog city, the brush never sprayed. Thinned the paint down to what your recommendation, and voila it actually sprays well. Followed your cleaning technique too and it also helped me clean my airbrush faster and actually cleaned it well, vs again following someone else's advice of "never spray cleaner through the brush". If others advice works for other people, great, but in my own usage this is what has been keeping paint flowing through my brush and actually lets me enjoy the thing.
Very helpful video! Nice to hear from a professional what is truly needed. I’d love a video on how to select your first airbrush, specifically which model
Hi Matt - thanks for the question. As long as you don't need huge paint capacity, we firmly believe that our new ULTRA 2024 is the best first airbrush you could possibly have. It's the only airbrush currently available, which has features specifically designed to help the beginner learn how to use the double action airbrush trigger straight out of the box. Take a look on our site here harder-airbrush.net/pages/ultra2024
Another great video. Thanks so much for clearing a path for us starting out. There are a lot of opinions out there and it gets a bit confusing at times. Keep all these practical videos coming they are so useful and we all appreciate them. On a different note , I wouldn’t mind seeing two videos. One on the general history of airbrushes and one on the history of Harder & Steenbeck.
Quite honestly, anything we can make about the history of the airbrush cannot surpass the incredible work done by Andy Penaluna, as true master, artist and scholar of the airbrush. Watch this, for example, and look him up on his website. Our history as a video which we made around 10 years ago which covers it pretty well :-) Thank you very much for asking! I hope this is interesting for you - I'm a big fan of Andy. ua-cam.com/video/ZV_BIx701Fo/v-deo.html
I readily admit I'm too sensitive to a break in my routine. But my Saturday mornings are just not as good without a video From Warwick, or Andy, to have with my coffee.
Hey! Sorry about that. Normal service will be resumed soon! We just have some development work to finish up and I've had to make some tough choices about where to put the time. I think once you see the results, you'll forgive us!
Another great tutorial Warwick, every day is a school day✌️😊💜 I'm not great at cleaning paint brushes😲😀🤣 Having written that I still have sable brushes used in model making (a tough life) that are 40 years old (so hopefully I'm doing something right😀). I have an ancient Paasche H and my first basic airbrush, from 1976 (the latter is buried in the loft where it deserves to stay😳😲🤣😀😭🤣). One thing that you didn't cover? Extractors and/or spray booths🤔 I realise that acrylics are a lot more user friendly but they are basically airborne plastics. I'm glad you mentioned the spray out pot, they're really good - I forgot mine the other day and even just doing a small job with acrylics, with a acrylic thinner and AB cleaner it still got fairly potent, just spraying into kitchen towel (at home so swmbo wasn't impressed) 😳😲🤕😕🤭
I'm of the view that as long as the spray-out pot is used, most users don't need to concern themselves with extractors etc. Yes, they are good, definitely. But right now, it's a pricey addition to the workbench.
I watch every H&S video when I got notified, learnt a lot about my airbrushes, and actually now I enjoy to use them (Ultra and Evolution cr) since I feel I can take better care of them. So thank you Warrick
Honestly, both this video and the one introducing the new Ultra airbrush have been super helpful for my use of the Sparmax 3 I have, finally feel that I have a good foundation and when I get a bit more comfortable using it, I’m going to get a better Harder & Steenbeck brush
Such a good video - you share your expertise in a firm, but very respectful manner. Thank you for all the beginner focused videos you post - they are invaluable for someone who just ordered their first airbrush and compressor from your store!
The only thing i would differ from the video is always buy a compressor with a tank. Who honestly wants to hear the motor going every time you press the trigger?. Other than that great vid with great advice as usual. I just got my first H&S and love it. Just need to do the trigger hack to fix the sensitivity
Awesome airbrush video's love them all! Can you please get into the difference between the different airbrushes/lines you provide, Ultra, Evolution, infinity and grafo and their specific uses and settings? So we can decide on which one really suits our hobby. Keep these awesome video's up and love to see more uses of the airbrushes.
Hey! This video is coming soon! It will be really epic for us to do that, as we have put a huge amount of work into making sure that we have a great system to answer that very important question, well.
Can't wait, sure this is a lot of effort, however for a longtime user of the infinityCR plus(20+ years) I'd love to see what all the other lovely brushes are capable of! @@harderairbrush
Great video! It is important to have fun :) And the more I use my airbrush, the more fun I have. And now for a question...can you please do a tutorial on varnishing with the airbrush. I sometimes get some ""dusty" finish on my models after varnishing and can not figure out if the reason is the dilution of the varnish or the pressure or the distance from the model...or something else....or all things combined.
Ah clear coating. Known to drive the most resilient painters to madness. Dusty = too dry of an application. You need to see the finish that you want. In other words, if you want gloss, you must see it as you apply. If you want satin, see satin as you apply. Matte, matte as you apply. The wetter the application, the smoother (glossier) the finish. But beware! Too wet and you'll get a run in the finish. Not good! So be judicious. Thinning more makes gloss come earlier, but it is less resistant to running. And try to work quite quickly, and remember to overlap your strokes, knowing that the overlap puts a little bit more down on the bit you just painted, so you don't want to over apply with the overlapped area. Hope that helps!
@@harderairbrush thanks a million for the tips. I think i may be doing too many coats,and the later coats come too dry. I'll try less coats and I'll thin my varnish with water instead of thinner. Thanks again!
Love these videos! You asked for suggestions... here's mine. Make a cleaning brush like the Iwata Washing Brush HPA-WB1. This brush has AMAZING bristles, the stiffness, curve, robustness, etc. make it the best brush I've ever used to clean my H&S airbrushes. However, the ferrule is tragically bad. I feel that H&S could make something really amazing using Iwata's Washing Brush as a starting point.
That looks good. We probably will make a cleaning brush at some point - generally I try to avoid making products which we feel others can do, as we're not here to just make things to sell - we're here to make things that no-one else can :-) but the cleaning brush is something which I think has great value to users if made REALLY correctly for our purpose.
I should have seen this video 2 months ago, first thing i do with my airbrush... take it apart :D , but it was more being interested to see how well they are made, as a cnc shop owner i get soo impressed with the quality of these airbrushes, they are worth every penny
Aaaaah man this warms my heart! If we can impress a CNC shop owner, then we're happy! Feel free to come and visit if you'd like a tour of our CNC area and the rest of the factory anytime. Just call and ask for me a couple of weeks prior to make sure I can be there to show you around.
Already got my Ultra and it's really awesome! Sadly the stand is missing, but i guess that will be solved soonish. Have to admit i don't understand that quick connect system hose thing.
Apologies if we have mis-shipped something. With regard to the Quick Disconnect - if you don't have that on your hose, just unscrew it from your airbrush.
@@harderairbrush yeah no worries, happens. Sure we can smooth that mispack out. Was genuinely surprised i already got it since i expected it in January. My thing with the Quick Disconnect is, i have the Giraldez Airbrush with the Pro Compressor. So i want to connect it there, but that one doesn't have a Quick Connect and somehow the connect i screwed on the hose doesn't come off again. Managed to screw it on there, but i would like to use that quick connect system since i'll get an evolution 2 in 1 soonish too and then want to change between them for different projects.
I agree on the not spending a fortune on a compressor, especially at the start. My first was a cheap, generic Chinese compressor (no tank) and it is still going today. As I outgrew this tiny compression I then bought a cheap generic Chinese compressor with a tank. This one was not good. By the time I worked out what was wrong with it due to my inexperience it was too late to send it back. Decided to invest a bit more and bought a Sparmax 610 which was & still is wonderful. The cheap Chinese ones are ok but it can be a bit hit or miss with the quality.
Thanks for sharing - that's a fairly typical experience. The less expensive items can definitely be useful and effective, but they sometimes don't quite make it once you need reliable hours of use.
Totally loving this series of videos, it is really inspiring me to get mine back out of the shed and try again, might have to buy an new Ultra though - when will it come to a UK supplier?
I would also like to see how you deal with different paint mediums ie lacquer, enamels, acrylics and the hybrid acrylic types. been airbrushing for years still learning and enjoying your tips etc. thanks
Honestly Tony, if you stick to the general rule of using only the thinner and cleaner specific to your paint brand, you can't go wrong. Hope that helps.
I would love to see a practical demo on how to really clean a nasty airbrush :D I mean let's say I've left some paint inside and it dried on the needle and some such :D I am afraid to use the scrubber / plunger things they sell for airbrush cleaning. I think I only used the smallest ones a few times and only on my "throw away chinese" airbrush. Never had to use it on my CR and I find it generally a bad idea to have a go at it. But in some cases I had some paint get dry on the needle and no idea if I have some "leftover" paint somewhere inside where it should not be. And more hands on things! It was mentioned a number of times how to have a proper work flow, how to avoid paint drying on the tip. A narrated demo would be lovely to see!
Yes - hopefully that covers the question for you :-) generally our plan is to do a bunch of topics with NO demo to see the reaction of the community. Then when we know what people really want to ask more about, then we know what practical videos we need to make. They will come :-)
I have a question. What is flow improver exactly for and when should you use it? And the second question: When and how should you lube your needle? I saw on one of your videos you should lube it when you feel a bit of resistance, but won't it change the properties of the paint? Should the whole length of the needle be lubricated?
Flow improver... be VERY careful that you use a flow improver which is specifically designed FOR THE AIRBRUSH. Flow improver for brush painting has the opposite property to what is useful in an airbrush, in that it decreases the ease with which the paint can be atomised. If you have a flow improver that does not specifically state on the label that it is for the airbrush, then do not use it with the airbrush. Generally, I've never got along with them particularly well, finding just a bit more thinner is usually effective enough. Second question - no, I don't ever lube the tip. I'll put lube on from around the 1/3 from the front point. Iwata Superlube is great because it is very inert to paint and does not cause fisheye, but even so, it's not made to put into paint chemistry!
One of your vids said to mention something you would like to see. I have noticed there is next to nothing on doing affects with an airbrush. I can think of only one that is shown on UA-cam. The weave. I'm sure there are many other affects but I'm not talking about lace as a stencil. More about the optical illusions that can be done that are similar to a picture but are not...like the weave pattern. I'm leaning more towards the car or helmet painting than a framed picture.
@@harderairbrush ua-cam.com/video/E7A8TatZCFg/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/soG6f0g_ZEg/v-deo.html These are the only examples of weaving I could find If you search lace you get dozens. But there must be other _things,_ effects.
Hey Dave - honestly I think that the way that this has been demonstrated by both of these guys is so well done, that I'm not sure how much I could add for you! Both of them have created really cool effects and they have documented them really well! All I could possibly add is this...when you're making a design which relies heavily on perfect masked edges, it's always the absolute worst if you get any bleed at all... one way to easily avoid that completely, is before you make the design coat, lay down a very dry coat into the masked area with the SAME colour as what you are masking... it takes a little more time, but it seals the edges of the mask, so that you never ever get any bleed. Very cool techniques though!
@@harderairbrush I'm not asking for you to demonstrate doing a weave, I would simply have asked _"can you demonstrate how to do a weave?"_ I'm asking are there *OTHER* techniques you can demonstrate that are similar. That are like a weave as opposed to painting through lace. Or painting a multitude of low rider stripes. Or painting flames. Or any of the widely covered and known effects. Weave is only an example. I can't name any effects because I don't know their name or if they even exist, they certainly don't exist on the findable web.
Ah OK now I understand... I will soon be filming a texture video, as this is one of the things that can really lift custom work massively. Thanks for the reply!
Awesome videos! Cant wait to get my airbrush! As I was looking for a sparmax compressor, I noticed that they sell spraybooths aswell.. is this something you would recommend? And when do you think a spraybooth is worth considering? Thanks!
Two ways that I know of... lots of colourful dust on your furniture is one sign... the other is a colourful result when you blow your nose. Either one is a sure sign that it's time to consider a mask, or an extractor :-) but make sure to start with a spray out pot. Great value solution to a large proportion of the problem
Nice Video. Glad to see the Ultra 2024 on your desk. Got mine yesterday. Trigger feels broken, Air is coming out even if i dont press the trigger because the trigger gets stuck down out of the Box. Dunno what happened here :(
@@echtalion pretty much. i talked 1 week ago with the german support, friendly lady on the line, she told me the shipment was delayed because of the triggers. they werent quite right... but yea, what i recieved is 100% not right. trigger gets stuck in itself. and whats funny, i now, 1 hour ago recieved a second one out of nowhere. dunno why, i dont open the seal and call them on phone on monday very strange
@Blade86 I'm not sure, as I haven't had a chance to chat with the staff, but I'm guessing that we've sent you another airbrush without waiting to receive the first one back. It's really terrible that we have sent you something problematic, and I'm sure the staff have reacted by trying to fix the problem as fast as possible rather than getting hung up on the details! Of course, I would like very much to see that airbrush personally, as this definitely should not happen. Please email me on wjs@harder-airbrush.de with your order details and I will follow this through myself. To be clear about the triggers... we refined the design at the last minute to give a slightly better return, and I decided to hold shipping slightly to allow us to manufacture all triggers to the slightly refined specification. HOWEVER your issue just sounds like an air valve which is slightly binding and is unrelated. Still unacceptable of course! Please get in touch :-)
Hi @harderairbrush, I got my Ángel Giráldez in January, and am waiting to get the new Ultra 2024 next week (along with a stand). How do I know if I'm getting the "new" triggers? Thank you.
@@harderairbrush Hi Warrick, everything is solved! The Lady on the Phone told me to open the second one and try this. It works like a charm, Trigger response is now good. Already got my returnlabel for my "broken" one. i just send it back and everything is fine. And no the second airbrush was completly accident cause no one did know over the weekend that mine was broken. But in the end, like i said above, everything should be fine and solved now :)
That recommendation is usually from people who really know what they are doing. They've lost contact a little bit with what it feels like to be in the early days! We always try to connect with users at this stage of development so that we can really keep our approach fresh and focussed on their experiences, rather than from the perspective of already having that experience level.
Waiting on Ultra 2024 to arrive and was wondering what thinner/cleaner to use with Pro Acryl paint since they don’t make a thinner/cleaner and what works best with their paints.
I'm guessing that they are content with water as a thinner... For cleaner - it's surprising that they don't supply that. I'd get that question to them! Most likely the Vallejo cleaner will work, but I do dislike going out of brand for thinners and cleaners.
@@harderairbrush they said they just use a couple drops of water. A friend of mine says he uses Vallejo flow improver and cleaner and it works fine so will try that.
I’m interested to understand the difference the amount of holes make for air delivery to the air cap. For example sotar have 3 holes to 6 and H&S appear to have 1 to then have it flow around the nozzle.
Great question. Every airbrush ever made so far has a single air channel leading from the airvalve to the head. Some airbrushes then have an intermediate headpiece which takes that single source and splits it amongst a larger number of holes, before then focussing it back down to the central exit around the fluid nozzle.The number of holes is irrelevant - what is relevant is how the air is redistributed after the single supply coming from the airvalve. Having several holes exiting very near to the final exit can be counter productive, because one or two of those holes may be better fed than the ones diametrically opposite to it, if the redistribution chamber prior to the multiple distribution holes is poorly designed. For our opinion, the critical point is to maximise the volume between the single entry (which is always off-centre on every airbrush due to the paint feed) and the single exit, and also to ensure that there is no direct exit from the entry. Putting an intermediate hole set in between these points just serves to reduce that volume. If you want a smooth air supply to the head, you need an air tank of the largest volume possible, between the air supply and the air exit, just like a compressor. That's what you'll find in our head concept - a very high intermediate interim volume, with direct exit possible from the supply, and that's why we don't utilise intermediary multiple holes.
@@harderairbrush Thank you for the quick reply. That's great to know and now I have a better understanding and appreciation that goes on the inside. It would also explain why your brushes are one of the best in atomisation.
I have a collection of a wide variety of airbrushes... around 50 of them actually...There are two that I consider the royalty of my collection.... my H&S Infinity airbrushes. 👌
Thanks for these videos, very helpful. I have a H&S CR+ Evolution and was wondering if I can retrofit it with an end piece which includes a needle stop feature?
Yes, you can! Look up 123664 - it's the Quick Fix system suitable for the Evolution. So not a stepped system like the ULTRA, but still gives needle control functionality, and can be released quickly for cleaning.
Hey there - no, we have packed this airbrush with features, and really wanted to try to keep the price reasonable, so we had to leave off a couple of things which we considered not central to the mission for this particular airbrush.
Hello H&S. Thank for the excellent videos. Is there any plan for H&S to make larger needle sets? I have a H&S Cult of Paint Infinity, the biggest needle I can find for it is 0.6mm but when I spray primer with that needle I always think a larger needle would be faster.
Hey buddy - firstly, you are changing the nozzle and the aircap too, right? However, it sounds like you might be trying to spray primer with no thinning... Especially when you're spraying onto moulded models, you want to spray the primer thinned so that you don't lose any of the surface detail moulded into your model by having too much primer build. Currently we do make head sets even right up to 0.8mm but I would like to redevelop these within the next couple of years, as I think we can do better now. But for me, for modelling, the 0.45mm works really beautifully with thinned primer. I'm not sure why you would want to go heavier.
We have designed the inside shapes of the needle nut to be very protective of the needle tip and to guide it into the airbrush with no risk of catching it. You still must exercise care whenever handling a needle, but this system on the new ULTRA makes it much easier when putting the needle in from the back.
Great advice. The LAST thing I did was take my airbrush apart... I was way too eager to test how it SHOULD spray, not troubleshoot why I &£"^% up the spray pattern.
Can I use a Chrome polish after sometimes to take care of the airbrush, the inside of the cup as well to feed and smooth the material ? Or will it affect the chemical and the paint later on ? Also are you going to do a BlackFriday ? :)
That's debatable. Take it on as a project, and let us know how the marriage progresses. Other than that, of course, ventilation and spray booths are always good. We talk here about "essentials" rather than "nice to haves" and I believe that with a spray out pot, you're in a good compromise. Personally, I"m not happy with the current price/ value for money equation of most spray booths, which is why I'm not really finding any to point you towards, as I"ll typically do with other products which I think offer great value, but are not from us.
If you go to do a gradient, would you clean between colours even if not doing could help with the gradient? or is better to clean just to avoid dry paint? Another question is, let's say I want to prime 20 models. Would you say is better to put paint for maybe 3-4 at a time and clean after and then prime another 3-4 to avoid having a lot of paint that can dry? I normally do not clean completely the airbrush when doing zenithal, I just make sure that the black is 99% gone and then I put the white, but I also normally prime with a lot of paint because I prime in big batches and I am wondering, as I asked, if is better to do smaller batches and clean afterwards to ensure a clean airbrush or if there is no difference in putting paint for 2-3 models or 10 in the cup.
Definitely better to do a quick clean up between colours. It's super fast as you can see in other videos, where we have deliberately shot with no edit on the timeline to illustrate this point. It doesn't help the blend :-) With regard to priming, load up, and shoot the lot! Priming settings typically shift quite a lot of paint, and generally this doesn't really result in much tip dry. If you notice the paint flow slowing a little, then just clean up the needle tip as shown, and keep on. I would definitely just nail the whole batch.
25psi works great as a general setting. Once you’ve got a feel for everything, play with it. The airbrush also works very well with less pressure. Can be useful for slowing the delivery down or creating texture… W
Yes, we know this... thanks for the question. It's something which we are doing, but given the people who will find it useful, it's definitely not something to be rushed... With regard to the 0.3mm... keep in touch ;-)
Why you didn't start this channel a few years ago ! )))) I always cleaned my airbrush removing the nozzle and clean it with cleaner and art brush and pipe brush ((( For any case, as I thought. Now I think - maybe I did so worse this way . I don't know how gentle nozzle walls inside and inside the needle channel into the airbrush ((( Although actually I got the fun from this process like disassembling and assembling a gun )))
Sureeely when it comes to thinners and cleaners you just need to be going for ones that match the type of paint you're using.. so water acrylic thinner for water acrylics, etc. Do they really chemically vary that much even within the same type of paint?
Are these tiny compressors screw compressors? Never had the time to investigate. At work we make compressors for trains - they are often oil free screw compressors and they produce a nice pulse free pressure gradient. Though extremely different use case. I am just curious how these small ones work :D We also have small ones that are used to raise the pantograph to the overhead wires on trains. Those are similar sizes to the ones used for airbrushing but they have ugly curves and pulses. So I wonder how they make these small ones have nice gradients and no pulses.
Generally speaking, they are piston compressors with high revolutions coupled with extremely short strokes. Then, you also have some node/ anode management strategies implemented within the head before the compressed air even leaves the head in order to double the pulse frequency again. Once this meets the back pressure of a 6ft hose and/or a pressure regulator, the air becomes extremely, if not totally smooth.
@@harderairbrush I have never tried it without a tank but that also adds a lot to the smoothing of the pressure curve. At work we many times had cases where a pneumatic effect would have a "spike" and adding small buffer reservoirs before sensors and what not smoothed out these waves. So I imagine that also helps a lot - but I really would be curious about the small compressors. I did not think they were also piston compressors. Quite surprising :O Thanks for the info. I'll have a look on these later :) (Though I don't think this is as interesting to others as it is to me due to work :D )
The modern piston compressors have extremely short strokes and very very small head volumes. This is why the pulses are fairly inconsequential right from the start (very short stroke, high rpm) and the very low head volume is what allows good pressure to be developed despite the short stroke.
Situation:I get a lot of splattering or cloging with my Giraldez and infinity (0.2 and 0.15 needle) with Liquitex Inks. I tried pressures between 0.6 bar and 1.8bar…results are the same… Application: I try to airbrush a very faint glow effect on Necrons and Marines. Maybe it is the distance I try to spray…I don’t know. Question: How to find the sweet spot to airbrush inks in very small areas? How to avoid splattering?
Well here's a thing. I've never sprayed with Liquitex inks! I've used their acrylics, and I know they make a quality paint, but I don't directly know their inks... but with so many quality products specifically designed for the airbrush, why use a product which isn't? From what you describe, it is either that the ink isn't really working well in the airbrush, or that you have damage to the airbrush... try another proven airbrush product first, and then contact us if you're finding the same... spattering really isn't a distance thing - if it's happening it doesn't matter what distance you are, really. Generally, for what your describing, you'll be using the medium Sketching cap, with approx one full turn out on the Quick Fix system.
@@harderairbrush Hi, thanks for your feedback. In the end I solved the issue by simply following your first or second rules for airbrushing…use the thinner/flow aid/retarder of the paint brand you are using. The clogging with the Liquitex inks is an issue with Vallejo thinner/ flow aid…with the Liquitex thinner/flow aid it sprays now nicely. Simple solution. I used Vallejo because it is my go to thinner/ flow aid for all acrylicpaints I use (AK, Golden, Pro-Acryl, Green Stuff world) and I never and an issue. Well there is a first time for everything ;).
Behave :-) as I said in the video - use whatever cleaner matches the paint brand you are using. In other words, for the isopropanol addicted amongst you :-) if you're using Vallejo, use Vallejo cleaner; if you're using Createx, use Createx cleaner and so on. IPA isn't all that effective at cleaning out WET acrylic paint. It's somewhat effective a shifting dry paint, but if you watched the video, you'll know to never let paint dry in your airbrush, right? :-)) thanks for asking the question!
Ah thanks man. We actually do think about that as part of the ownership experience. We'd like you to enjoy those first moments when you open the box as part of the experience of choosing one of our brushes. We greatly respect that the people to whom we sell are creatives making aesthetic objects to be enjoyed by many, and we pay homage to you by trying to give you something which has an aesthetic to inspire you too.
Kool advice, But I can’t agree with the anti-ultrasonic cleaner sentiments. If you’re not a serious airbrush artist and you’ve purchased or acquired economy airbrushes where the brush and its replacement parts are somehow disposable or cheaply made. Yeah I guess you can afford sub-par or moderate cleaning. But if you’re serious about airbrushing and you’ve spent the time honing your craft and have purchased professional grade airbrushes you’ll need an ultrasonic cleaner to perform deep cleanings of your airbrushes particular if you are using enamel paints in your airbrush. I use primarily siphon feed IWATA airbrushes (IWATA HP-BC/BC2 and HP-BCS eclipse) and nothing in my experience (30yrs plus) deep cleans an airbrush like a professional grade ultrasonic cleaner. In my estimate if you are an artist who frequently uses your airbrushes and you do not use an ultra sonic cleaner you’re going to be spending more time and money replacing your airbrushes. A well maintained quality airbrush can last a lifetime. Using proper cleaner solutions and knowing the proper ultrasonic cleaner settings found on professional grade models can do nothing but enhance your experience as an airbrush artist and add long life to your professional grade airbrushes.
Thanks for sharing your experience :-) if it's working for you, then it's perfect for you! Personally, I always smile when I hear the phrase "deep clean" being used with regard to the airbrush. It's not a carpet :-) it just needs a clean, really. I would even go further and say that if you're solely using solvent based paint such as enamel, then the need for ultrasonic is even less, as the thinner is so aggressive as a cleaner. The key is really to making sure that when you clean between colour, the airbrush is clean. Also, professional grade airbrushes usually would have far better internal finishes and plating, making ultrasonic treatment again less necessary. But, of course, if you insist on ultrasonic cleaning, and it works for you, and keeps you with the airbrush in your hand regularly, then that's perfect for me :-) I just won't be telling folks that they have to have it, as it's all money, and in my opinion if you get the cleaning right, it's money that can be saved.
I would love to see a pros and cons video about the different types of paint like acrylic, enamel, lacquer and urethane.
Here's the short version. If you're painting at home, Acrylic, no question! If you're working in a paint shop, House of Kolor - oooh yeah.
I'm looking forward to getting my H&S ultra and starting to learn how to airbrush. These videos are really great for someone like me!! Great stuff
Mega - thanks so much for choosing to join us!
This has become my favorite series. And now I’ve purchases an airbrush from you! Thanks for the tone. It’s helpful, informative and matter of fact. Very well done.
Thank you for joining us Steve!
Hi Warwick I'm a new starter to the airbrushing world and I'm under the wing of Rob dred fx custom paints, I've had a lengthy chat with him last night and he's practically ordered me to purchase the new ultra as he's blown away with it so that's good enough for me so ordering one at the end of the month when I get paid , a big thumbs up from me on your channel 👍👍
Ah mate that's awesome. Thanks so much for joining us! keep us informed about your progress! Rob is a great painter, so you're in good hands there.
@@harderairbrush will do and thanks again for your feedback 👊👊
Nice job on the Fiesta by the way @deanbrown7643
@@harderairbrush thankyou I was following an american guy on u tube who sprayed directly from his garage ,being a painter for many yrs I was very sceptical but thought why not I'll give a garage paint job a go and it came out nice just a denib and a buff after and made £1.200 on it 😉😉😉 thanks again Warwick 🙂
Great video Warwick.
I only have a cheap A-186 compressor, with a tank, that came with two cheap air brushes (0.3 side feed and 0.4 siphon feed)
I used the 0.4 for priming, and the 0.3 for spraying colours on my miniature figures, and Camo on airfix planes.
After a year of learning what each one did, (and didn't do), I found it was easy to keep the air brushes clean by flushing & brushing, rather than stripping down.
I have since got another cheap airbrush (0.3), but a top loading gravity feed, and I could not believe how much easier it was to clean out at the end of a session, I have not had to strip this one down more than twice is 6 months.
My airbrushing is getting better, now so next birthday I may treat myself to a H&S.
Please keep these videos coming as I find them most useful.
Hey buddy - glad that you're airbrushing regularly. We'd be happy to have you join us as an H&S user. There are some great new things to tempt you coming soon :-)
I have the same compressor, I think is the most common one. However I was always using cheap airbrushes and finding it a pain to use them because how bad they worked. I just did what they mentioned in the video, I decided to spent a bit more on the airbrush than in the compressor. At the end of the day is the tool we use. Why get a cheap tool when we can get a much better one? Why overspending on everything except the important thing? My ultra is arriving soon, hopefuly this week!!
@@harderairbrush can you define soon? ^^
Yes, certainly - according to the Cambridge Dictionary:
in or within a short time; before long; quickly ;-)
hahaha i love you ;) @@harderairbrush
Warwick, when I started - I bought Wallpaper Lining Paper like a whole 30m roll for £8. I cut 1metre sections - put it on my desk - I then used it as a practice section - to check distances - spray pattern. It is cheap and can be great to practice, test or trial stuff. Also protects work surface. I've been so inspired by you, the H&S videos and Squidmar - I've hung up my Iwata NEO and bought a Squidmar Ultra - My wife will snaffle it and wrap it for Christmas. I cannot wait for Christmas Day and some vehicle painting.😂
Thank you so much for joining us!!!
Just found this channel after buying your ultra series airbrush and its a gold mine! thank you for not trying to shill out useless products that the average person wouldn't need. Great advice from this video!
Hey there - thanks so much for joining us! Appreciate the comment :-)
Just picked up an Ultra, these videos are a Godsend!
Excellent video, I would love to see a video on the use of masks and respirators with the different paints it’s something I have seen people ignore.and after all we only get one set of lungs.
This is unlikely to be a video that we make, simply because I'm trying to give advice on airbrushing which gives short cuts which work. This isn't really a short cut topic! All paints by law offer advice on the bottle as to how you should deal with them. Follow that. I would say, that using a spray out pot is the single best thing you can do to mitigate this issue, whether or not you use a mask.
I took your advice from other videos and my airbrush actually worked well for like the first time ever. I've listened to other people on youtube who swear by their advice and it's given me nothing but trouble. Worst advice I've probably ever gotten was "you dont need to thin Citadel Air Paints, just crank the pressure up to 30 psi" it was clog city, the brush never sprayed. Thinned the paint down to what your recommendation, and voila it actually sprays well. Followed your cleaning technique too and it also helped me clean my airbrush faster and actually cleaned it well, vs again following someone else's advice of "never spray cleaner through the brush". If others advice works for other people, great, but in my own usage this is what has been keeping paint flowing through my brush and actually lets me enjoy the thing.
Wow dude - you've had two spectacular pieces of bad advice there! Glad that we've got you enjoying yourself with the airbrush :-)
Very helpful video! Nice to hear from a professional what is truly needed. I’d love a video on how to select your first airbrush, specifically which model
Hi Matt - thanks for the question. As long as you don't need huge paint capacity, we firmly believe that our new ULTRA 2024 is the best first airbrush you could possibly have. It's the only airbrush currently available, which has features specifically designed to help the beginner learn how to use the double action airbrush trigger straight out of the box. Take a look on our site here harder-airbrush.net/pages/ultra2024
@@harderairbrush great! Thanks for the reply. I’ll check out the video
Another great video. Thanks so much for clearing a path for us starting out. There are a lot of opinions out there and it gets a bit confusing at times.
Keep all these practical videos coming they are so useful and we all appreciate them.
On a different note , I wouldn’t mind seeing two videos. One on the general history of airbrushes and one on the history of Harder & Steenbeck.
Quite honestly, anything we can make about the history of the airbrush cannot surpass the incredible work done by Andy Penaluna, as true master, artist and scholar of the airbrush. Watch this, for example, and look him up on his website. Our history as a video which we made around 10 years ago which covers it pretty well :-) Thank you very much for asking! I hope this is interesting for you - I'm a big fan of Andy. ua-cam.com/video/ZV_BIx701Fo/v-deo.html
Excellent video! Just received my INFINITY CR Plus 2 in 1 this week. So far very impressed. Great quality!
Awesome! Thanks for joining us!
I readily admit I'm too sensitive to a break in my routine. But my Saturday mornings are just not as good without a video From Warwick, or Andy, to have with my coffee.
Hey! Sorry about that. Normal service will be resumed soon! We just have some development work to finish up and I've had to make some tough choices about where to put the time. I think once you see the results, you'll forgive us!
Another great tutorial Warwick, every day is a school day✌️😊💜
I'm not great at cleaning paint brushes😲😀🤣 Having written that I still have sable brushes used in model making (a tough life) that are 40 years old (so hopefully I'm doing something right😀). I have an ancient Paasche H and my first basic airbrush, from 1976 (the latter is buried in the loft where it deserves to stay😳😲🤣😀😭🤣).
One thing that you didn't cover? Extractors and/or spray booths🤔 I realise that acrylics are a lot more user friendly but they are basically airborne plastics. I'm glad you mentioned the spray out pot, they're really good - I forgot mine the other day and even just doing a small job with acrylics, with a acrylic thinner and AB cleaner it still got fairly potent, just spraying into kitchen towel (at home so swmbo wasn't impressed) 😳😲🤕😕🤭
I'm of the view that as long as the spray-out pot is used, most users don't need to concern themselves with extractors etc. Yes, they are good, definitely. But right now, it's a pricey addition to the workbench.
I watch every H&S video when I got notified, learnt a lot about my airbrushes, and actually now I enjoy to use them (Ultra and Evolution cr) since I feel I can take better care of them. So thank you Warrick
Ah that's really great to hear - thanks for letting us know!!!
How much easier my life would have been if I had seen this video before I bought my first airbrush. 😅
All advice is as accurate as an atomic clock.👏
Ah thanks for that! Great compliment and really happy to have helped!
This is great advice. Thanks for sharing!
You have rocketed to the top of my "cool UA-cam handle" rankings.
I really like how you simplify your videos and right to the point
Thanks Mike!
Honestly, both this video and the one introducing the new Ultra airbrush have been super helpful for my use of the Sparmax 3 I have, finally feel that I have a good foundation and when I get a bit more comfortable using it, I’m going to get a better Harder & Steenbeck brush
That's great to hear - thanks for sharing! We look forward to you joining us sometime :-)
Such a good video - you share your expertise in a firm, but very respectful manner. Thank you for all the beginner focused videos you post - they are invaluable for someone who just ordered their first airbrush and compressor from your store!
The only thing i would differ from the video is always buy a compressor with a tank. Who honestly wants to hear the motor going every time you press the trigger?. Other than that great vid with great advice as usual. I just got my first H&S and love it. Just need to do the trigger hack to fix the sensitivity
Thanks so much for joining us!
@tracer0017 the trigger has been completely redesigned on the new airbrushes :-)
I love these videos. please keep going. Thank you
Thanks Dingo!!!
Have my ultra for years now. Top airbrush. Love it.
Ah thanks very much Manuel.
Wie immer gut! Bis nächste Woche😅
Danke!
Another great video. Thank you.
Thanks Howard
Again a great video. Short and to the point. Simple to understand.
Thank you Mark!
Awesome airbrush video's love them all! Can you please get into the difference between the different airbrushes/lines you provide, Ultra, Evolution, infinity and grafo and their specific uses and settings? So we can decide on which one really suits our hobby. Keep these awesome video's up and love to see more uses of the airbrushes.
Hey! This video is coming soon! It will be really epic for us to do that, as we have put a huge amount of work into making sure that we have a great system to answer that very important question, well.
Can't wait, sure this is a lot of effort, however for a longtime user of the infinityCR plus(20+ years) I'd love to see what all the other lovely brushes are capable of! @@harderairbrush
Great video! It is important to have fun :) And the more I use my airbrush, the more fun I have.
And now for a question...can you please do a tutorial on varnishing with the airbrush. I sometimes get some ""dusty" finish on my models after varnishing and can not figure out if the reason is the dilution of the varnish or the pressure or the distance from the model...or something else....or all things combined.
Ah clear coating. Known to drive the most resilient painters to madness. Dusty = too dry of an application. You need to see the finish that you want. In other words, if you want gloss, you must see it as you apply. If you want satin, see satin as you apply. Matte, matte as you apply. The wetter the application, the smoother (glossier) the finish. But beware! Too wet and you'll get a run in the finish. Not good! So be judicious. Thinning more makes gloss come earlier, but it is less resistant to running. And try to work quite quickly, and remember to overlap your strokes, knowing that the overlap puts a little bit more down on the bit you just painted, so you don't want to over apply with the overlapped area. Hope that helps!
@@harderairbrush thanks a million for the tips. I think i may be doing too many coats,and the later coats come too dry. I'll try less coats and I'll thin my varnish with water instead of thinner. Thanks again!
What a great start into the day. Can not wait for my Squidmar Ultra!
let us know when you get it!
Just ordered the new Ultra 2024. Can't wait to receive it and start using it!! Great videos, probably the reason why I bough the H&S Ultra 2024!!!
Awesome - thank you for joining us!
Thanks for videos Warwick, just ordered my Ultra 2024 to get back into it.
Awesome - thanks for joining us!
Love these videos! You asked for suggestions... here's mine. Make a cleaning brush like the Iwata Washing Brush HPA-WB1. This brush has AMAZING bristles, the stiffness, curve, robustness, etc. make it the best brush I've ever used to clean my H&S airbrushes. However, the ferrule is tragically bad. I feel that H&S could make something really amazing using Iwata's Washing Brush as a starting point.
That looks good. We probably will make a cleaning brush at some point - generally I try to avoid making products which we feel others can do, as we're not here to just make things to sell - we're here to make things that no-one else can :-) but the cleaning brush is something which I think has great value to users if made REALLY correctly for our purpose.
Thank you for a very informative video. Keep up the good work!
Thank you!
Looking forward to get my new Ultra and learn to paint with air ;)
Thanks for joining us!
I love these videos so much. Another fine job :)
Thank you!
Just ordered the new Ultra airbrush you brought out, the Squidmar special edition one, can't wait 😊
Whoop! Awesome - thanks for joining us!
I should have seen this video 2 months ago, first thing i do with my airbrush... take it apart :D , but it was more being interested to see how well they are made, as a cnc shop owner i get soo impressed with the quality of these airbrushes, they are worth every penny
Aaaaah man this warms my heart! If we can impress a CNC shop owner, then we're happy! Feel free to come and visit if you'd like a tour of our CNC area and the rest of the factory anytime. Just call and ask for me a couple of weeks prior to make sure I can be there to show you around.
Already got my Ultra and it's really awesome! Sadly the stand is missing, but i guess that will be solved soonish. Have to admit i don't understand that quick connect system hose thing.
Apologies if we have mis-shipped something. With regard to the Quick Disconnect - if you don't have that on your hose, just unscrew it from your airbrush.
@@harderairbrush yeah no worries, happens. Sure we can smooth that mispack out. Was genuinely surprised i already got it since i expected it in January.
My thing with the Quick Disconnect is, i have the Giraldez Airbrush with the Pro Compressor. So i want to connect it there, but that one doesn't have a Quick Connect and somehow the connect i screwed on the hose doesn't come off again. Managed to screw it on there, but i would like to use that quick connect system since i'll get an evolution 2 in 1 soonish too and then want to change between them for different projects.
Sorry - I don't understand if you're asking me a question :-) let me know!
loving warwicks analogy of a furry rabbit being an airbrush actually made me laugh that lol
I am rather proud of that one!!! It's totally true! Airbrush are made from elements of the Earth's crust - not particularly delicate :-)
Ive just bit the bullet on the ultra 2024 time to get back into airbrushing
Ah that's awesome brother - WELCOME BACK! Please keep us informed as to how you get on with it!
Great advice thank you for the tips
Pleasure!
I agree on the not spending a fortune on a compressor, especially at the start. My first was a cheap, generic Chinese compressor (no tank) and it is still going today. As I outgrew this tiny compression I then bought a cheap generic Chinese compressor with a tank. This one was not good. By the time I worked out what was wrong with it due to my inexperience it was too late to send it back. Decided to invest a bit more and bought a Sparmax 610 which was & still is wonderful. The cheap Chinese ones are ok but it can be a bit hit or miss with the quality.
Thanks for sharing - that's a fairly typical experience. The less expensive items can definitely be useful and effective, but they sometimes don't quite make it once you need reliable hours of use.
Totally loving this series of videos, it is really inspiring me to get mine back out of the shed and try again, might have to buy an new Ultra though - when will it come to a UK supplier?
Should be sometime in November, I guess. In the meantime, you can buy it here if you like harder-airbrush.net/pages/ultra2024
I would also like to see how you deal with different paint mediums ie lacquer, enamels, acrylics and the hybrid acrylic types. been airbrushing for years still learning and enjoying your tips etc.
thanks
Honestly Tony, if you stick to the general rule of using only the thinner and cleaner specific to your paint brand, you can't go wrong. Hope that helps.
I would love to see a practical demo on how to really clean a nasty airbrush :D I mean let's say I've left some paint inside and it dried on the needle and some such :D I am afraid to use the scrubber / plunger things they sell for airbrush cleaning. I think I only used the smallest ones a few times and only on my "throw away chinese" airbrush. Never had to use it on my CR and I find it generally a bad idea to have a go at it. But in some cases I had some paint get dry on the needle and no idea if I have some "leftover" paint somewhere inside where it should not be.
And more hands on things! It was mentioned a number of times how to have a proper work flow, how to avoid paint drying on the tip. A narrated demo would be lovely to see!
Och my - my feed just completely skipped the video about the ultra. I have to have a go at that one as well! It looks more hands on :)
Yes - hopefully that covers the question for you :-) generally our plan is to do a bunch of topics with NO demo to see the reaction of the community. Then when we know what people really want to ask more about, then we know what practical videos we need to make. They will come :-)
@@harderairbrush Looking forward to it! :)
love your videos!
Thanks very much!
I have a question. What is flow improver exactly for and when should you use it?
And the second question: When and how should you lube your needle? I saw on one of your videos you should lube it when you feel a bit of resistance, but won't it change the properties of the paint? Should the whole length of the needle be lubricated?
Flow improver... be VERY careful that you use a flow improver which is specifically designed FOR THE AIRBRUSH. Flow improver for brush painting has the opposite property to what is useful in an airbrush, in that it decreases the ease with which the paint can be atomised. If you have a flow improver that does not specifically state on the label that it is for the airbrush, then do not use it with the airbrush. Generally, I've never got along with them particularly well, finding just a bit more thinner is usually effective enough.
Second question - no, I don't ever lube the tip. I'll put lube on from around the 1/3 from the front point. Iwata Superlube is great because it is very inert to paint and does not cause fisheye, but even so, it's not made to put into paint chemistry!
One of your vids said to mention something you would like to see.
I have noticed there is next to nothing on doing affects with an airbrush. I can think of only one that is shown on UA-cam. The weave. I'm sure there are many other affects but I'm not talking about lace as a stencil. More about the optical illusions that can be done that are similar to a picture but are not...like the weave pattern.
I'm leaning more towards the car or helmet painting than a framed picture.
Hi Dave - I don't quite understand what you mean... could you provide a link to a video with it shown as an effect?
@@harderairbrush
ua-cam.com/video/E7A8TatZCFg/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/soG6f0g_ZEg/v-deo.html
These are the only examples of weaving I could find If you search lace you get dozens.
But there must be other _things,_ effects.
Hey Dave - honestly I think that the way that this has been demonstrated by both of these guys is so well done, that I'm not sure how much I could add for you! Both of them have created really cool effects and they have documented them really well! All I could possibly add is this...when you're making a design which relies heavily on perfect masked edges, it's always the absolute worst if you get any bleed at all... one way to easily avoid that completely, is before you make the design coat, lay down a very dry coat into the masked area with the SAME colour as what you are masking... it takes a little more time, but it seals the edges of the mask, so that you never ever get any bleed. Very cool techniques though!
@@harderairbrush
I'm not asking for you to demonstrate doing a weave, I would simply have asked _"can you demonstrate how to do a weave?"_
I'm asking are there *OTHER* techniques you can demonstrate that are similar.
That are like a weave as opposed to painting through lace. Or painting a multitude of low rider stripes. Or painting flames. Or any of the widely covered and known effects.
Weave is only an example. I can't name any effects because I don't know their name or if they even exist, they certainly don't exist on the findable web.
Ah OK now I understand... I will soon be filming a texture video, as this is one of the things that can really lift custom work massively. Thanks for the reply!
Awesome videos! Cant wait to get my airbrush!
As I was looking for a sparmax compressor, I noticed that they sell spraybooths aswell.. is this something you would recommend? And when do you think a spraybooth is worth considering? Thanks!
Two ways that I know of... lots of colourful dust on your furniture is one sign... the other is a colourful result when you blow your nose. Either one is a sure sign that it's time to consider a mask, or an extractor :-) but make sure to start with a spray out pot. Great value solution to a large proportion of the problem
Hey maybe make a follow up on the Video where you sprayed the space marines. I really would like to know how I go from here.
Hey buddy - yes - we are in process with that video :-)
@@harderairbrush n1
Nice Video. Glad to see the Ultra 2024 on your desk. Got mine yesterday. Trigger feels broken, Air is coming out even if i dont press the trigger because the trigger gets stuck down out of the Box. Dunno what happened here :(
Hi, that's concerning, as my Ultra 2024 was shipped yesterday 😢
@@echtalion pretty much. i talked 1 week ago with the german support, friendly lady on the line, she told me the shipment was delayed because of the triggers. they werent quite right... but yea, what i recieved is 100% not right. trigger gets stuck in itself. and whats funny, i now, 1 hour ago recieved a second one out of nowhere. dunno why, i dont open the seal and call them on phone on monday very strange
@Blade86 I'm not sure, as I haven't had a chance to chat with the staff, but I'm guessing that we've sent you another airbrush without waiting to receive the first one back. It's really terrible that we have sent you something problematic, and I'm sure the staff have reacted by trying to fix the problem as fast as possible rather than getting hung up on the details! Of course, I would like very much to see that airbrush personally, as this definitely should not happen. Please email me on wjs@harder-airbrush.de with your order details and I will follow this through myself. To be clear about the triggers... we refined the design at the last minute to give a slightly better return, and I decided to hold shipping slightly to allow us to manufacture all triggers to the slightly refined specification. HOWEVER your issue just sounds like an air valve which is slightly binding and is unrelated. Still unacceptable of course! Please get in touch :-)
Hi @harderairbrush, I got my Ángel Giráldez in January, and am waiting to get the new Ultra 2024 next week (along with a stand).
How do I know if I'm getting the "new" triggers?
Thank you.
@@harderairbrush Hi Warrick, everything is solved! The Lady on the Phone told me to open the second one and try this. It works like a charm, Trigger response is now good. Already got my returnlabel for my "broken" one. i just send it back and everything is fine. And no the second airbrush was completly accident cause no one did know over the weekend that mine was broken. But in the end, like i said above, everything should be fine and solved now :)
Hi I heard you say about a no8 paint brush for cleaning your needle whos make do you recommend ?
the first thing i did with my new H&S evolution was to strip it :( will def remember that for the future
That recommendation is usually from people who really know what they are doing. They've lost contact a little bit with what it feels like to be in the early days! We always try to connect with users at this stage of development so that we can really keep our approach fresh and focussed on their experiences, rather than from the perspective of already having that experience level.
Waiting on Ultra 2024 to arrive and was wondering what thinner/cleaner to use with Pro Acryl paint since they don’t make a thinner/cleaner and what works best with their paints.
I'm guessing that they are content with water as a thinner... For cleaner - it's surprising that they don't supply that. I'd get that question to them! Most likely the Vallejo cleaner will work, but I do dislike going out of brand for thinners and cleaners.
@@harderairbrush they said they just use a couple drops of water. A friend of mine says he uses Vallejo flow improver and cleaner and it works fine so will try that.
I'd go with the water as a thinner tbh :-)
When would the newer harder & Steenbeck cr plus 2 in 1 version 3 come out? Cheers!
I'll be back.
I’m interested to understand the difference the amount of holes make for air delivery to the air cap. For example sotar have 3 holes to 6 and H&S appear to have 1 to then have it flow around the nozzle.
Great question. Every airbrush ever made so far has a single air channel leading from the airvalve to the head. Some airbrushes then have an intermediate headpiece which takes that single source and splits it amongst a larger number of holes, before then focussing it back down to the central exit around the fluid nozzle.The number of holes is irrelevant - what is relevant is how the air is redistributed after the single supply coming from the airvalve. Having several holes exiting very near to the final exit can be counter productive, because one or two of those holes may be better fed than the ones diametrically opposite to it, if the redistribution chamber prior to the multiple distribution holes is poorly designed. For our opinion, the critical point is to maximise the volume between the single entry (which is always off-centre on every airbrush due to the paint feed) and the single exit, and also to ensure that there is no direct exit from the entry. Putting an intermediate hole set in between these points just serves to reduce that volume. If you want a smooth air supply to the head, you need an air tank of the largest volume possible, between the air supply and the air exit, just like a compressor. That's what you'll find in our head concept - a very high intermediate interim volume, with direct exit possible from the supply, and that's why we don't utilise intermediary multiple holes.
@@harderairbrush Thank you for the quick reply. That's great to know and now I have a better understanding and appreciation that goes on the inside. It would also explain why your brushes are one of the best in atomisation.
I have a collection of a wide variety of airbrushes... around 50 of them actually...There are two that I consider the royalty of my collection.... my H&S Infinity airbrushes. 👌
Thank you very much Dallas!
Thanks for these videos, very helpful. I have a H&S CR+ Evolution and was wondering if I can retrofit it with an end piece which includes a needle stop feature?
Yes, you can! Look up 123664 - it's the Quick Fix system suitable for the Evolution. So not a stepped system like the ULTRA, but still gives needle control functionality, and can be released quickly for cleaning.
Does the Ultra colour cup come with a cap?
Hey there - no, we have packed this airbrush with features, and really wanted to try to keep the price reasonable, so we had to leave off a couple of things which we considered not central to the mission for this particular airbrush.
Hello H&S. Thank for the excellent videos.
Is there any plan for H&S to make larger needle sets? I have a H&S Cult of Paint Infinity, the biggest needle I can find for it is 0.6mm but when I spray primer with that needle I always think a larger needle would be faster.
Hey buddy - firstly, you are changing the nozzle and the aircap too, right? However, it sounds like you might be trying to spray primer with no thinning... Especially when you're spraying onto moulded models, you want to spray the primer thinned so that you don't lose any of the surface detail moulded into your model by having too much primer build. Currently we do make head sets even right up to 0.8mm but I would like to redevelop these within the next couple of years, as I think we can do better now. But for me, for modelling, the 0.45mm works really beautifully with thinned primer. I'm not sure why you would want to go heavier.
Whenever you take de needle out and you clean as you showed in the video, then how do you put it back without damaging the pit of the the needle?
We have designed the inside shapes of the needle nut to be very protective of the needle tip and to guide it into the airbrush with no risk of catching it. You still must exercise care whenever handling a needle, but this system on the new ULTRA makes it much easier when putting the needle in from the back.
Add kitchen/toilet paper inside the paint pot to absorb the expelled liquids, makes cleaning the pot easier
Also old socks :-)
Great advice. The LAST thing I did was take my airbrush apart... I was way too eager to test how it SHOULD spray, not troubleshoot why I &£"^% up the spray pattern.
Can I use a Chrome polish after sometimes to take care of the airbrush, the inside of the cup as well to feed and smooth the material ? Or will it affect the chemical and the paint later on ?
Also are you going to do a BlackFriday ? :)
Hey buddy - just clean it - we already did all the polishing and smoothing for you!
what about ventilation or a spraying booth? don't think the chairs across me will look better with paint of them nor would the table
That's debatable. Take it on as a project, and let us know how the marriage progresses. Other than that, of course, ventilation and spray booths are always good. We talk here about "essentials" rather than "nice to haves" and I believe that with a spray out pot, you're in a good compromise. Personally, I"m not happy with the current price/ value for money equation of most spray booths, which is why I'm not really finding any to point you towards, as I"ll typically do with other products which I think offer great value, but are not from us.
@@harderairbrush agreed, the price on spray booths can be bit oddly overpriced
If you go to do a gradient, would you clean between colours even if not doing could help with the gradient? or is better to clean just to avoid dry paint?
Another question is, let's say I want to prime 20 models. Would you say is better to put paint for maybe 3-4 at a time and clean after and then prime another 3-4 to avoid having a lot of paint that can dry?
I normally do not clean completely the airbrush when doing zenithal, I just make sure that the black is 99% gone and then I put the white, but I also normally prime with a lot of paint because I prime in big batches and I am wondering, as I asked, if is better to do smaller batches and clean afterwards to ensure a clean airbrush or if there is no difference in putting paint for 2-3 models or 10 in the cup.
Definitely better to do a quick clean up between colours. It's super fast as you can see in other videos, where we have deliberately shot with no edit on the timeline to illustrate this point. It doesn't help the blend :-) With regard to priming, load up, and shoot the lot! Priming settings typically shift quite a lot of paint, and generally this doesn't really result in much tip dry. If you notice the paint flow slowing a little, then just clean up the needle tip as shown, and keep on. I would definitely just nail the whole batch.
@@harderairbrush thanks, as always!
How many BAR/PSI should I use for my new Ultra?
25psi works great as a general setting. Once you’ve got a feel for everything, play with it. The airbrush also works very well with less pressure. Can be useful for slowing the delivery down or creating texture… W
Why is there no side feed infinity? Some people do want one. Also, why no .3mm needle/nozzle set?
Yes, we know this... thanks for the question. It's something which we are doing, but given the people who will find it useful, it's definitely not something to be rushed... With regard to the 0.3mm... keep in touch ;-)
Why you didn't start this channel a few years ago ! )))) I always cleaned my airbrush removing the nozzle and clean it with cleaner and art brush and pipe brush ((( For any case, as I thought. Now I think - maybe I did so worse this way . I don't know how gentle nozzle walls inside and inside the needle channel into the airbrush ((( Although actually I got the fun from this process like disassembling and assembling a gun )))
Pavel if it worked for you, then it worked! 😊
Sureeely when it comes to thinners and cleaners you just need to be going for ones that match the type of paint you're using.. so water acrylic thinner for water acrylics, etc. Do they really chemically vary that much even within the same type of paint?
I was told that Mr Color Levelling Thinner was the best choice?
The best thinner is always the thinner which is supplied by the same brand as the paint. Don't mix :-)
Updates on Squidmar Ultra shipment?
Yes, we are approximately half way through shipments now. We hope to have all Squidmar ULTRA shipped by the end of the month.
Are these tiny compressors screw compressors? Never had the time to investigate. At work we make compressors for trains - they are often oil free screw compressors and they produce a nice pulse free pressure gradient. Though extremely different use case. I am just curious how these small ones work :D We also have small ones that are used to raise the pantograph to the overhead wires on trains. Those are similar sizes to the ones used for airbrushing but they have ugly curves and pulses. So I wonder how they make these small ones have nice gradients and no pulses.
Generally speaking, they are piston compressors with high revolutions coupled with extremely short strokes. Then, you also have some node/ anode management strategies implemented within the head before the compressed air even leaves the head in order to double the pulse frequency again. Once this meets the back pressure of a 6ft hose and/or a pressure regulator, the air becomes extremely, if not totally smooth.
@@harderairbrush I have never tried it without a tank but that also adds a lot to the smoothing of the pressure curve. At work we many times had cases where a pneumatic effect would have a "spike" and adding small buffer reservoirs before sensors and what not smoothed out these waves. So I imagine that also helps a lot - but I really would be curious about the small compressors. I did not think they were also piston compressors. Quite surprising :O Thanks for the info. I'll have a look on these later :) (Though I don't think this is as interesting to others as it is to me due to work :D )
The modern piston compressors have extremely short strokes and very very small head volumes. This is why the pulses are fairly inconsequential right from the start (very short stroke, high rpm) and the very low head volume is what allows good pressure to be developed despite the short stroke.
Situation:I get a lot of splattering or cloging with my Giraldez and infinity (0.2 and 0.15 needle) with Liquitex Inks. I tried pressures between 0.6 bar and 1.8bar…results are the same…
Application: I try to airbrush a very faint glow effect on Necrons and Marines.
Maybe it is the distance I try to spray…I don’t know.
Question: How to find the sweet spot to airbrush inks in very small areas? How to avoid splattering?
Well here's a thing. I've never sprayed with Liquitex inks! I've used their acrylics, and I know they make a quality paint, but I don't directly know their inks... but with so many quality products specifically designed for the airbrush, why use a product which isn't? From what you describe, it is either that the ink isn't really working well in the airbrush, or that you have damage to the airbrush... try another proven airbrush product first, and then contact us if you're finding the same... spattering really isn't a distance thing - if it's happening it doesn't matter what distance you are, really. Generally, for what your describing, you'll be using the medium Sketching cap, with approx one full turn out on the Quick Fix system.
@@harderairbrush Hi, thanks for your feedback. In the end I solved the issue by simply following your first or second rules for airbrushing…use the thinner/flow aid/retarder of the paint brand you are using. The clogging with the Liquitex inks is an issue with Vallejo thinner/ flow aid…with the Liquitex thinner/flow aid it sprays now nicely. Simple solution. I used Vallejo because it is my go to thinner/ flow aid for all acrylicpaints I use (AK, Golden, Pro-Acryl, Green Stuff world) and I never and an issue. Well there is a first time for everything ;).
Great! Thanks for letting us know!
Can i use Isopropanol 99,9% alcohol, to clean my airbrush, i have a lot of it and use it to clean the bed on my 3d printers
Behave :-) as I said in the video - use whatever cleaner matches the paint brand you are using. In other words, for the isopropanol addicted amongst you :-) if you're using Vallejo, use Vallejo cleaner; if you're using Createx, use Createx cleaner and so on. IPA isn't all that effective at cleaning out WET acrylic paint. It's somewhat effective a shifting dry paint, but if you watched the video, you'll know to never let paint dry in your airbrush, right? :-)) thanks for asking the question!
The first thing you do with a H&S airbrush is admire it.
I have 2 H&S airbrushes, the Infinity and the Coloni. Both are great tools.
Ah thanks man. We actually do think about that as part of the ownership experience. We'd like you to enjoy those first moments when you open the box as part of the experience of choosing one of our brushes. We greatly respect that the people to whom we sell are creatives making aesthetic objects to be enjoyed by many, and we pay homage to you by trying to give you something which has an aesthetic to inspire you too.
@harderairbrush Second thing you do with a H&S airbrush is to try and figure out what a Nadelfarbmengenregulierungenstellschraube could be.
Prost!
👍
When will my beautiful Squid be shipped.
Shipping starts in the last week of October!
Kool advice, But I can’t agree with the anti-ultrasonic cleaner sentiments. If you’re not a serious airbrush artist and you’ve purchased or acquired economy airbrushes where the brush and its replacement parts are somehow disposable or cheaply made. Yeah I guess you can afford sub-par or moderate cleaning. But if you’re serious about airbrushing and you’ve spent the time honing your craft and have purchased professional grade airbrushes you’ll need an ultrasonic cleaner to perform deep cleanings of your airbrushes particular if you are using enamel paints in your airbrush. I use primarily siphon feed IWATA airbrushes (IWATA HP-BC/BC2 and HP-BCS eclipse) and nothing in my experience (30yrs plus) deep cleans an airbrush like a professional grade ultrasonic cleaner. In my estimate if you are an artist who frequently uses your airbrushes and you do not use an ultra sonic cleaner you’re going to be spending more time and money replacing your airbrushes. A well maintained quality airbrush can last a lifetime. Using proper cleaner solutions and knowing the proper ultrasonic cleaner settings found on professional grade models can do nothing but enhance your experience as an airbrush artist and add long life to your professional grade airbrushes.
Thanks for sharing your experience :-) if it's working for you, then it's perfect for you! Personally, I always smile when I hear the phrase "deep clean" being used with regard to the airbrush. It's not a carpet :-) it just needs a clean, really. I would even go further and say that if you're solely using solvent based paint such as enamel, then the need for ultrasonic is even less, as the thinner is so aggressive as a cleaner. The key is really to making sure that when you clean between colour, the airbrush is clean. Also, professional grade airbrushes usually would have far better internal finishes and plating, making ultrasonic treatment again less necessary. But, of course, if you insist on ultrasonic cleaning, and it works for you, and keeps you with the airbrush in your hand regularly, then that's perfect for me :-) I just won't be telling folks that they have to have it, as it's all money, and in my opinion if you get the cleaning right, it's money that can be saved.
Respirator.
Always good advice and no furry animals were harmed just shaved 🪒
Great comment :-)