I just discovered your channel and I love it. Finally somebody that knows how to test each part of a rifle for quality and specs. Not some youtube shill raving about how amazing a part is after 200 rounds without doing detailed inspection. Subscribed!
@@Quality_Guru I mention dimensions for things that are public knowledge. When I omit dimensions it's because that data was developed from servicing thousands of AR's. I spent a bunch of time and money to get that data. Students have access to that information, but I dont share it for free.
Fun fact: Bill Geisslie scraps off some skin cells from his body and seals them under the anodizing of each AR upper they make so his dna is signature on all his rifles.
Man In not even an ARTguy but watching you work is mesmerizing and so informative. Best on UA-cam. You will grow fast mark my words. Thank you solo much. Now I wish I had or could afford the wonderful tools and gadgets you have. All the best. Thanks again.
i just dont understand why the manufactures dont link his vids. this guys is safe, clear, and uses what appears to be real "true" inspection tools. When I am shopping, for a firearm, honestly, i like to see if he has done a physical on it first. but, i am a noob.. and i except the fact my knowledge isnt high in this subject. So, i do my best to seek as much correct knowledge i can. Cheers and great video! thanx for doing this!
Another great video. I’d like to add one more spot to check. I once had a receiver with buffer retainer plunger bore was too small. I put the spring in, then the plunger, pushed it down and the damn thing stuck. It’s still stuck to this day since there’s only the small nub to grab on to at that point. I check every one of them now.
My S&W M&P15 is a mess. I bought the gun over a Colt 6920 (this was before they stopped selling to public) mostly because it came with a sling, 3 magazines and a cleaning kit while the colt only came with 1 magazine (big mistake). I shot around 1000 rounds before taking a class. I immediately started facing issues such as failure to feed, failure to extract, stuck cartridge, charging handle damaging the upper receiver. I have: changed the barrel, BCG, charging handle, grip (even changing the grip out, I discovered the threading was messed up and needed correcting), made it free float and STILL the gun fucks up.
Maybe I missed it, but I didn't see any check for hole locations. Are the hammer, trigger pin and selector holes properly located? That is a very difficult measurement for me using line between takedown pin centers as datum. Also the milling depth inside the receiver. Just had a perplexing issue with a rifle that we finally figured out was the floor was milled at an angle - depending on where we checked it was/was not in spec. Anyway, just wondering why mostly only diameters are checked and not locations.
Out of all the firearm informational videos on youtube i think Instructor Chad's are the most useful. it would be nice to see a knowledgeable person inspect a wide variety of available products out on the market.
That magwell jig is pretty cool, is there anything you can do about a lower being a little tight? My Aero M4E1 lower will not drop free, was thinking about taking a very fine piece of sandpaper to it
@Jeffrey Carlson Yep. I once went through about 15 actual M16 A1s that had been regularly used at a police training center for decades. These things were beat up, shot out, wore out and rattled like crazy. The thing is, every single one of them still worked perfectly. Two of them were keyholing because the barrels were shot out but still functioned and the rest were surprisingly accurate still.
Great information. One suggestion, when you're reading out measurements from the caliper, the screen isn't always visible so when you say 96 thousandths as 960, I'd think many people would take that as 960 thousandths. With the difference in the wall thicknesses being .0960 and .0980, using that method would make it seem as though there is a 20 thousandths difference instead of 2. Just my $.02
Hello, I am a sports shooter and I am French living in France. I just received my Geissele automatics super Duty in 14.5 inches. I am a little disappointed because the thickness of the lower is 1.5 millimeters thick, the thickness of an AK 47. Compare to other brands like Daniel defense or Aero precision, or colt it’s very, very thin. It’s a 2023 model. I saw in youtube other Geissele automatics that are thicker. Do you think that the fact that it is very thin can be a robustness problem? 1.5 millimeters is very, very thin. Do you think I made the right choice? Merci beaucoup. Best regards
@@Kris.with.a.k_ surprising as my Larue pins fit into my Aero lower no problem, I've heard of QC issues with them but something as vital as trigger pins not fitting is eye opening
I'd love to pick up a surface plate and some pin gauges and start checking the spacing of all of the features on the various lowers I have. I know they have some differences just based on how they all fit differently in my Present Arms stuff.
I dont know if anyone caught the misread of the caliper reading of the reciever walls. BUT .980" AND 960" IS A .020" DIFFERENCE! .980" AND .978 WOULD BE .002" DIFFERENCE. OR .960 AND .958" EQUALS .002". so much for precision on those walls. Seems like a wide tolerance to me? That's +/- .010" tolerance given that nominal value of the wall is .0970" I guess I would expect a much tighter tolerance from Bill Giessele and team. Maybe it's just me? A Micrometer would have given more accurate results. Still have a lot of respect for the knowledge and information Chad is putting out! Well done sir!
Umm, I think your off a decimal point bud. Despite what you hear Chad say, I saw 0.0960” - 0.0980”. Thats a .002” difference OR .001” off center! That wall is not almost an inch thick at 0.960” lol Also, Chad mentioned that if that the wider triggers that go up into the bolt carrier may have a problem if that pocket is too far off center. Extremely unlikely. That pocket is milled in the same operation as the rear takedown pin shelf (which by the way should be .500”-.504” per mill-spec. Don’t know why you’re checking it with a .515”. Please explain Chad). Because of this, that rear shelf and trigger pocket should be perfectly aligned. The upper receiver locates on the rear takedown shelf and not on the outside forged walls… thus aligning the trigger pocket to the bolt carrier perfectly. No two forgings are ever the same so from a manufacturing point of view its almost impossible to have that pocket on center to those outside forged walls. Besides, it does not matter one bit. But if that sort of thing bothers you then get a billet lower. The fact that Bill Giessele is making receiver this good is VERY impressive. Plus the added bonus of an M16 pocket ;) On a more important note, Chad never checked the location of the trigger/safety holes to the front pivot pin (per mill-spec they are +/-.0015”!). But again, those holes are drilled together on the same operation and it’s unlikely they will be off and are quite difficult to check manually on a rock without a CMM.
Great videos, I have searched to try to find some of the tools/gauges you use and can’t find them anywhere. Do you have a list somewhere posted in any of the videos?
WOW, I must say I'm a little embarrassed. I have built 7 AR rifles/ pistols and the only thing that I check for is head space. You video was very interesting and educational. You just got a new Sub.
you made sure all the holes in this lower were the right size, but don't have a jig to test if they were aligned properly in with each other? and perpendicular to the side of the lower? what gives?
good job doing your videos. It would be a real plus if you list some of the part numbers for the pin gauges, what the tolerances are or even part numbers for the pin gauge and holders.
Do you not check any measurements regarding the bolt catch? I have a daniel defense and the lower on it seems to be stacking tolerances or the bolt catch or magazine well slot is not machined in the correct place. As the bolt catch can't reach the follower on multiple different magazines and will sometimes even hop over the follower on lancers for example, causing the magazine to stick and deform the edge of the follower. I have also tried a different bolt catch brand new geissele out of the box, same issue. From what i gathered the bolt catch itself has the correct measurements so problem seems with the lower.
@@bestjobieverhad9584 I'm jealous, those are some of the only AR's in that price range that are worth it, they have all the upgrades I would want to put into a build all ready in them.
Is there any way you can measure buffer retaining pin placement in the future? It seems to be the most common problem of modern times where it is drilled too far back and the retaining pin limits the buffer travel instead of the carrier. Distance between take down pins would also be interesting, as would distance between the fire control group pins. Maybe depth of the magazine release from side to side? Either way thanks for the great videos.
Fun fact: Bill Geisslie scraps off some skin cells from his body and seals them under the anodizing of each AR upper they make so his dna is signature on all his rifles.
Maybe you can help me out. I have a sharps brand jack lower. I can’t find any upper that will fit it without any slop. I believe this one must have been a defect off of sharps assembly line. I’ve tried many different brand uppers and various brand pivot and take down pins. Still no luck
You get things figured out? Have you seen those washers you can use on the upper so when you close it down it takes some of that slop up? You have to replace it almost every time you take the upper off but it's a cheap solution
I've been working on AR15s for 30 years. So I'm curious as to know what makes this a super duty lower? If it's milspec then how can any lower be super duty. It's always amazing though out the years the different names for the same thing. Please let me know if I'm missing something here. Thanks for your videos.
@@TerminalM193 I do recall a few companies like v-seven that has lightweight ones that are made of a different alloy. Thanks for pointing that out. I'm going to look into those tonight.
What are the dimensions you are testing components against? It seems odd a lower that is deemed 'fantastic' would accept a trigger group pin that is larger than mil-spec.
Negative Ghost Rider, any AR-15 trigger whether it be a drop in or Geissele, OEM, Larue, or any trigger made for the AR-15 semi-auto would run just fine in this lower, just has the Geissele stamps on it. FYI For full auto you would need the "third hole" just above the letters "I & R" in FIRE ... a full auto trigger, full auto safety, and an auto sear and spring assembly/pin.... and a 007 SOT FFL license to avoid Hughes Amendment charges :) ... or a full auto lower made before 1986 that has all the needed full auto hardware as mentioned above.
A lot of aftermarket triggers use 0.155" pins. The pins themselves are available. If they don't fit the lower you can smear them with lapping compound and stick them in a drill to make them fit.
I have a geissele trigger in my ar10 and the pins it came with werent dimpled. Is it only with certain geissele triggers or were the older pins not dimpled?
Not sure, but I know Geissle has pretty awful QC. They have taken on too much too fast. You can see issues all over forums where people talk about their QC issues.
@@lyndajenkins4389 yeah I gotta say I feel like you're 100% right. They took on too much and are clearly dropping quality for quantity. I stopped buying their overpriced junk and have been moving towards other companies who are providing higher quality like FCD and Larue. These other companies also don't pretend to support gun rights while making statements to the contrary like Geissele did.
I think there is only something like 3 or 4 manufacturers of lowers in the US. They produce about 95%. Of all lowers and just stamp other company’s names on them. I believe that is what I heard a while ago. Sone company’s do have the equipment to make their own but they are few and far between only only produce a very limited number. If I remember correctly
So what is better about this lower receiver then say and Anderson or Palmetto State Armory stripped lower receiver and is it worth the price difference?
![Unboxing - Geissele Super Duty Build Kit [ODG]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QBUZ3uQoUM4/mqdefault.jpg)
I just discovered your channel and I love it. Finally somebody that knows how to test each part of a rifle for quality and specs. Not some youtube shill raving about how amazing a part is after 200 rounds without doing detailed inspection. Subscribed!
I just found this channel two days ago and Ive learned more than 20 years prior
Same here - lots and of impressions, but almost no facts in regards to the overall measurements.
@@Quality_Guru I mention dimensions for things that are public knowledge.
When I omit dimensions it's because that data was developed from servicing thousands of AR's.
I spent a bunch of time and money to get that data. Students have access to that information, but I dont share it for free.
Extremely impressed that you sent your thread plug gage in for calibration. Speaks volume that you are real deal!
Imagine Chad going into the gun store to buy a part and they pull it out, then he pulls out the gauges.
Most shops would never allow it.
@@SchooloftheAmericanRifle Ha!
Most shops, should be checking their inventory to make sure it’s in spec…
Fun fact: Bill Geisslie scraps off some skin cells from his body and seals them under the anodizing of each AR upper they make so his dna is signature on all his rifles.
Man In not even an ARTguy but watching you work is mesmerizing and so informative. Best on UA-cam. You will grow fast mark my words. Thank you solo much. Now I wish I had or could afford the wonderful tools and gadgets you have. All the best. Thanks again.
i just dont understand why the manufactures dont link his vids. this guys is safe, clear, and uses what appears to be real "true" inspection tools. When I am shopping, for a firearm, honestly, i like to see if he has done a physical on it first. but, i am a noob.. and i except the fact my knowledge isnt high in this subject. So, i do my best to seek as much correct knowledge i can. Cheers and great video! thanx for doing this!
I'd like to see these measurements done on an 80% lower milled with a jig and woodworking router.......
Are there any jigs for that cut out?
Ya boi
Man, I am so impressed with, and thankful for, your lessons. They are great learning experiences for us AR enthusiasts.
Another great video. I’d like to add one more spot to check. I once had a receiver with buffer retainer plunger bore was too small. I put the spring in, then the plunger, pushed it down and the damn thing stuck. It’s still stuck to this day since there’s only the small nub to grab on to at that point. I check every one of them now.
I love these videos Chad!! 👍🏼🇺🇸
Well that gauge SHOULD be rare seeing as how it’s Mjolnir
I'm a simple man. I see a new SOTAR video, I like and check to make sure the bell is still selected.
My S&W M&P15 is a mess. I bought the gun over a Colt 6920 (this was before they stopped selling to public) mostly because it came with a sling, 3 magazines and a cleaning kit while the colt only came with 1 magazine (big mistake). I shot around 1000 rounds before taking a class. I immediately started facing issues such as failure to feed, failure to extract, stuck cartridge, charging handle damaging the upper receiver. I have: changed the barrel, BCG, charging handle, grip (even changing the grip out, I discovered the threading was messed up and needed correcting), made it free float and STILL the gun fucks up.
I just got this receiver for a build and it’s pretty. Rifle shoots flawlessly too.
Maybe I missed it, but I didn't see any check for hole locations. Are the hammer, trigger pin and selector holes properly located? That is a very difficult measurement for me using line between takedown pin centers as datum. Also the milling depth inside the receiver. Just had a perplexing issue with a rifle that we finally figured out was the floor was milled at an angle - depending on where we checked it was/was not in spec. Anyway, just wondering why mostly only diameters are checked and not locations.
Im so glad found this channel ,wow talk about informative!! Thankyou
Out of all the firearm informational videos on youtube i think Instructor Chad's are the most useful. it would be nice to see a knowledgeable person inspect a wide variety of available products out on the market.
My bother, thank you for
offfering info. IM SPARKED. The info. is amazing.
" a good gauge for your rifle if you dont have one of these thread gauges, is your actual threads if they dont fit the rifle thats a no-go" -chad
Someone please send in an anderson that wouldn't accept take down pins or something wild. I'd love to see the results of these same tests.
@@paulbarclay4114 that's why I wanna see it.
@@paulbarclay4114 Horseshit.
Everything fit in my Anderson like it was supposed to. No problems or wear on anything yet.
graynote yeah. I bought it because there was nothing else available. I’ve considered turning my pony into a unicorn lol
@@rcrites I've got a few anderson lowers that have been running just fine for years.
Nice physical, great to see you have just as many gauges for the lower :). Hopefully we can see some other lower manufacturer's lowers inspected.
I wouldn't want to have to buy all those gauges. One reason why gun smithing ain't cheap.
Picking mine up for an SBR. Going to build a 300blk with the VLTOR upper. Looks good to me. Thanks!!
.002" different in thickness.
To put that into perspective, an average piece of paper is .003" thick.
Very educational! Thank you again.
Great video, Would love to see an Radian Adac
That magwell jig is pretty cool, is there anything you can do about a lower being a little tight? My Aero M4E1 lower will not drop free, was thinking about taking a very fine piece of sandpaper to it
Get a magazine well stretcher.
You could put your magazines through a hot wash and a long cycle through a clothes dryer.
Hi. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, I find your videos very educative.
You don’t think the standard BCM upper (2nd one) had too much slop? Would you be fine running that upper? Thanks.
The magazine when inserted takes up a lot of that slop. A lot of builds positively rattle with the magazine out.
@Jeffrey Carlson Yep. I once went through about 15 actual M16 A1s that had been regularly used at a police training center for decades. These things were beat up, shot out, wore out and rattled like crazy. The thing is, every single one of them still worked perfectly. Two of them were keyholing because the barrels were shot out but still functioned and the rest were surprisingly accurate still.
Great information. One suggestion, when you're reading out measurements from the caliper, the screen isn't always visible so when you say 96 thousandths as 960, I'd think many people would take that as 960 thousandths. With the difference in the wall thicknesses being .0960 and .0980, using that method would make it seem as though there is a 20 thousandths difference instead of 2. Just my $.02
Love this channel brother keep up the great work...do you only do AR’s...??? Cuz I’d kill for u to autopsy a sig mpx... 💪🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Hello,
I am a sports shooter and I am French living in France.
I just received my Geissele automatics super Duty in 14.5 inches.
I am a little disappointed because the thickness of the lower is 1.5 millimeters thick, the thickness of an AK 47.
Compare to other brands like Daniel defense or Aero precision, or colt it’s very, very thin. It’s a 2023 model.
I saw in youtube other Geissele automatics that are thicker.
Do you think that the fact that it is very thin can be a robustness problem? 1.5 millimeters is very, very thin.
Do you think I made the right choice?
Merci beaucoup.
Best regards
I once had an Aero Precision that definitely would not have passed the mag well gauge.
I was a 45 b in the army and I bought a Geissele super duty & I haven't had a rifle in a while just need a good review ver descent
I'd love to see this test done on something like a PSA or a Anderson to see how they stack up, given their price point and popularity.
If you look around the channel there are plenty of physicals on various brands
Thanks for the video!
Curious, which lower did you bring on camera that the Geissele or Larue pins didn’t fit?
The selector markings looked very SOLGW-ish. But I'm curious as well.
Egon Pax That was an Aero Precision lower that he brought out. Those safety selector markings are specific to their lowers.
@@Kris.with.a.k_ surprising as my Larue pins fit into my Aero lower no problem, I've heard of QC issues with them but something as vital as trigger pins not fitting is eye opening
@@Kris.with.a.k_ It's not an aero it's a SOLGW
Any interest in a cmmg radial delayed blowback bolt/barrel to look over? Happy to send my new set in.
I'd love to pick up a surface plate and some pin gauges and start checking the spacing of all of the features on the various lowers I have. I know they have some differences just based on how they all fit differently in my Present Arms stuff.
I dont know if anyone caught the misread of the caliper reading of the reciever walls. BUT .980" AND 960" IS A .020" DIFFERENCE! .980" AND .978 WOULD BE .002" DIFFERENCE. OR .960 AND .958" EQUALS .002". so much for precision on those walls. Seems like a wide tolerance to me? That's +/- .010" tolerance given that nominal value of the wall is .0970" I guess I would expect a much tighter tolerance from Bill Giessele and team. Maybe it's just me? A Micrometer would have given more accurate results. Still have a lot of respect for the knowledge and information Chad is putting out! Well done sir!
Umm, I think your off a decimal point bud. Despite what you hear Chad say, I saw 0.0960” - 0.0980”. Thats a .002” difference OR .001” off center! That wall is not almost an inch thick at 0.960” lol
Also, Chad mentioned that if that the wider triggers that go up into the bolt carrier may have a problem if that pocket is too far off center. Extremely unlikely. That pocket is milled in the same operation as the rear takedown pin shelf (which by the way should be .500”-.504” per mill-spec. Don’t know why you’re checking it with a .515”. Please explain Chad). Because of this, that rear shelf and trigger pocket should be perfectly aligned. The upper receiver locates on the rear takedown shelf and not on the outside forged walls… thus aligning the trigger pocket to the bolt carrier perfectly. No two forgings are ever the same so from a manufacturing point of view its almost impossible to have that pocket on center to those outside forged walls. Besides, it does not matter one bit. But if that sort of thing bothers you then get a billet lower. The fact that Bill Giessele is making receiver this good is VERY impressive. Plus the added bonus of an M16 pocket ;)
On a more important note, Chad never checked the location of the trigger/safety holes to the front pivot pin (per mill-spec they are +/-.0015”!). But again, those holes are drilled together on the same operation and it’s unlikely they will be off and are quite difficult to check manually on a rock without a CMM.
Great videos, I have searched to try to find some of the tools/gauges you use and can’t find them anywhere. Do you have a list somewhere posted in any of the videos?
WOW, I must say I'm a little embarrassed. I have built 7 AR rifles/ pistols and the only thing that I check for is head space. You video was very interesting and educational. You just got a new Sub.
Are those "school of the American rifle" stickers available to buy somewhere?
you made sure all the holes in this lower were the right size, but don't have a jig to test if they were aligned properly in with each other? and perpendicular to the side of the lower? what gives?
good job doing your videos. It would be a real plus if you list some of the part numbers for the pin gauges, what the tolerances are or even part numbers for the pin gauge and holders.
I noticed that geissele lower has a different milling profile inside vs all my lowers. Are all geissele lowers like this?
Do you not check any measurements regarding the bolt catch? I have a daniel defense and the lower on it seems to be stacking tolerances or the bolt catch or magazine well slot is not machined in the correct place. As the bolt catch can't reach the follower on multiple different magazines and will sometimes even hop over the follower on lancers for example, causing the magazine to stick and deform the edge of the follower. I have also tried a different bolt catch brand new geissele out of the box, same issue. From what i gathered the bolt catch itself has the correct measurements so problem seems with the lower.
Geissele products seem to be the top of the heap in quality.
People are so jealous of giessele, I own 11 ans 14.5 fucking thing are work horses
@@bestjobieverhad9584 I'm jealous, those are some of the only AR's in that price range that are worth it, they have all the upgrades I would want to put into a build all ready in them.
Would you consider these lowers as good as LMT, Noveske, KAC lowers?
Lucky bastard...got himself a Geissele SD lower at black friday pricing and a perfect bill of health from SOTAR.
How much did all these gages cost?
Geez! Now I gotta buy all these gauges, Dang it.
Geissele makes good stuff…they get alot of hate but they make some premium rifles..durable, long lasting, accurate
The m4a1 tdp says .500 -.000 +.005 for the rear and .500 -.000 +.004 for the front so why .515?
Is there any way you can measure buffer retaining pin placement in the future? It seems to be the most common problem of modern times where it is drilled too far back and the retaining pin limits the buffer travel instead of the carrier.
Distance between take down pins would also be interesting, as would distance between the fire control group pins. Maybe depth of the magazine release from side to side?
Either way thanks for the great videos.
Just picked on these up form brownells. Get them while they are instock
Where do you get all of your gauges, etc.?
Fun fact: Bill Geisslie scraps off some skin cells from his body and seals them under the anodizing of each AR upper they make so his dna is signature on all his rifles.
Maybe you can help me out. I have a sharps brand jack lower. I can’t find any upper that will fit it without any slop. I believe this one must have been a defect off of sharps assembly line. I’ve tried many different brand uppers and various brand pivot and take down pins. Still no luck
You get things figured out? Have you seen those washers you can use on the upper so when you close it down it takes some of that slop up? You have to replace it almost every time you take the upper off but it's a cheap solution
I've been working on AR15s for 30 years. So I'm curious as to know what makes this a super duty lower? If it's milspec then how can any lower be super duty. It's always amazing though out the years the different names for the same thing. Please let me know if I'm missing something here. Thanks for your videos.
@@TerminalM193 I do recall a few companies like v-seven that has lightweight ones that are made of a different alloy. Thanks for pointing that out. I'm going to look into those tonight.
I just now run into your reply. thank you for the info on v-seven.
Is there a tool list where I can look this up?
Why yes, I did find it educational!
Didn’t know you had a UA-cam channel mr clandestine
my 80% would fail _all_ of these :)
What are the dimensions you are testing components against? It seems odd a lower that is deemed 'fantastic' would accept a trigger group pin that is larger than mil-spec.
Outstanding display of why the run of the mill lower maybe letting it's owner down. Can't say it enough, put quality into your lower every time.
So you have to use a Geissele or Larue trigger in that lower?
Negative Ghost Rider, any AR-15 trigger whether it be a drop in or Geissele, OEM, Larue, or any trigger made for the AR-15 semi-auto would run just fine in this lower, just has the Geissele stamps on it. FYI For full auto you would need the "third hole" just above the letters "I & R" in FIRE ... a full auto trigger, full auto safety, and an auto sear and spring assembly/pin.... and a 007 SOT FFL license to avoid Hughes Amendment charges :) ... or a full auto lower made before 1986 that has all the needed full auto hardware as mentioned above.
A lot of aftermarket triggers use 0.155" pins. The pins themselves are available. If they don't fit the lower you can smear them with lapping compound and stick them in a drill to make them fit.
Have you ever checked a Danial Defense rifle? Wonder how they compare?
What are the sizes for the take down pin Gages?
Are they low shelf cut?
I have a geissele trigger in my ar10 and the pins it came with werent dimpled. Is it only with certain geissele triggers or were the older pins not dimpled?
Not sure, but I know Geissle has pretty awful QC. They have taken on too much too fast. You can see issues all over forums where people talk about their QC issues.
@@lyndajenkins4389 yeah I gotta say I feel like you're 100% right. They took on too much and are clearly dropping quality for quantity. I stopped buying their overpriced junk and have been moving towards other companies who are providing higher quality like FCD and Larue. These other companies also don't pretend to support gun rights while making statements to the contrary like Geissele did.
So I know that they're not made in house by Geissele. Who is making their lowers?
Anderson
Digital Donut They certainly look like they are made by Anderson with what G is putting out which is garbage.
I think there is only something like 3 or 4 manufacturers of lowers in the US. They produce about 95%. Of all lowers and just stamp other company’s names on them. I believe that is what I heard a while ago. Sone company’s do have the equipment to make their own but they are few and far between only only produce a very limited number. If I remember correctly
Mine has a super tight magwell
ARSMR
So what is better about this lower receiver then say and Anderson or Palmetto State Armory stripped lower receiver and is it worth the price difference?
@твоя мама very reliable. Some ODA units go with the complete build. Even the retention springs are beefed up
Just got 2 for $100 each
Thank you
Careful with that gorilla tape, it'll take the cerakote right off that thing.
GEISSELE receivers are type 3 hard coat anodized, not cerakoted