The GM uses a reluctance/coil pickup to generate pulses. No power required as it generates its own voltage. the faster it spins, the brigher the pulses. The China distributor uses a Hall effect sensor which turns on/off when a cog on the reluctance wheel goes buy. you need to apply 5+ volts to the 1st pin, ground the 3rd pin and look for pulses between 2 and 3.
I ran TBI injection with the GM module triggered by Ford duraspark distributors, for well over 10 years without trouble on various engines, including 351 Windsor. I've also used the module triggered by a magnetic flywheel on lawn tractor engines. The duraspark pickup and rotor are identical to what's shown in your offshore distributor. As to the quality of your module, that is hard to say. But they are basically an amplifier to drive the coil, mitigated in the TBI module to transfer timing signals after start to the computer's control.
Great video, I am currently replacing my pickup coil, module, and coil. I purchased all AC Delco and Delphi parts. I hope they all work as designed! I like the LED light test on the pickup coil!
Thanks for the heads up! I bought an aftermarket distributor for my 350 on eBay and haven't tried it out. I'll check the pickup coil before installing.
I have the same issue with my 93 Blazer K1500 (k5) it has an almost constant state of the hiccups it lugs, chugs, even feels like detonation! Funny how we had something in common, aftermarket pot metal new chineese distributors! I have a whole jegs kit, polished billet distributor, which I'll pull the module and regardless add my own pc thermal compound arctic mx4 to be sure, 8mm wires and a coil which is always a nice upgrade they're always at least a drivability and quick startup enhancement! The cheap dizzies for these engines do have one nice side...at least when you gotta chuck it, the horrible firewall clearance on the blazers ain't an issue cause a lily royal purple penetrates in ng fluid and that bolt will move really easy cause someone else did the worst part, living in Chicagoland with salt, everything just corrodes in place, and theres no stopping it unless you buy gallon buckets of POR 15 lol
*69-72 1st gen K5 Blazer= full removable top *73-75 2nd gen K5 Blazer= full removable top *76-91 2nd gen K5 Blazer= half removable top *92-on 3rd gen Blazer= no removable top (not a K5) Not all Blazers are K5's and not all K5's are Blazers.
davida1hiwaaynet i want to ask you i have a 305 engine the problem is am having is the engine wont start i have spark and fuel but it wont start just cranks over and over i changed the distributor from a jy and when i try to start it it starts for a sec or 2 then shuts off it wont start again could it be the pickup coil is bad my old distributor pickup coil is broken so what could cause a no start if you have all 3 things fuel spark and compration is the distributor from the jy bad ? the engine is 305 tbi help me please thanks in advance
I just replaced my 1991 S10 distributor that i purchased from amazon with one from AutoZone and it made a heck of a difference. chinese junk from amazon vs one made in Taiwan. no more stalling or rough idling. and no i couldn't find one made in the USA. But i will rather buy parts made in Taiwan or Vietnam than china crap if I cant find USA made .
Thank you so much! Have a91 s10 v6 4.3L and just replaced dizzy only to make driving worse but your video helped so much in terms of timing and knowing i bought the right part
I love this video it is great and very informative. Not often does someone show it all the way thru. Now is that the distributor you can hook up for timing control. I have big cap hei but not looking to buy 400 dollar distributor if gm already made one that works
The only problem with the OEM is that damned ICM goes out about once a year it seems, I keep a spare now and the 7.5 mm socket just in case. Damn thing is a pain in my ass.
When I was redoing my '86 Chevy truck... I purchased a number of new parts... my old HEI was working OK, but it was the original distributor, so I purchased a brand new Accel unit. Four months later, I jump in the truck to run an errand, turn the key, the truck fires, and then dies... no spark... the Control Module died... a few months after that... I'm driving along... the truck starts bucking and shaking... so I shut it off, coast to the side of the road... the timing pickup had failed... So... the only item that is left of my brand new Accel HEI Distributor is the housing and shaft.
Turbolq4 ditto. Two weeks ago I had a new hei accel coil burn up my module going down a highway. Luckily I had a stock coil and another module with me. Ha ha (sarcasm). :/
Oh shit ,just replaced the wifes Chinese distributor with an accell . Have an old accell in my Mopar but its hooked up to an msd 6al , never a problem just hope that Hei is ok.
3-8-18 Update. The Ignition Module was the issue with the China Distributor. The new one failed. I replaced it with a new BWD it faild too. I never had a issue with the stock unit. So it's off to buy a American made Dizzy. China boycott don't buy. Their cheaper for a reason. The pick ups are causing the issue with fouling out the module's.
Those parts look like from a Ford magnetic distributor, but the problem is the wide gap. I have used Ford distributors with GM TBI units on Ford V8 with no problems. Module failure is usually due to bad ground to module.
+CerebusTV I completely agree about the wide gap. That is bad, as well as the wide, blunt shape of the tooth profile. The profile needs to be sharp so that the two "points" pass each other very cleanly. This will generate a much sharper, more well-defined firing pulse into the module.
Yes but those sharper points have less surface area than the side mounted pick up coil. One would think that a larger magnet would generate at least an equivalent strength signal. The air gap can be adjusted and makes a difference. I think 18 thousandths is the optimum gap.
I know this is old video but what evidently the ebay dizzy is meant to run is a NON est system, just a mag pick up to run a locked out timing set up with a MSD type box, I know from lots of experimentation that a HEI module only works with the 'star' type reluctor with the ring type 'pole' piece. If you scope the two sensors, the Chrysler one should be a smooth ac wave, the gm hei set up is real spikey with sharp narrow peaks. They don't work with a smooth Chrysler type ac signal, at least when I have tried. I know this cause I have tried to use hei modules to run other ignition systems when their modules are either unobtainable or sky hi in price or unreliable, which these hei modules lately are all bunk too now.
+twoturbo468. Perhaps you can shed some light on a query I have about those two types of (magnetic) pick up coils. Is it possible just from the difference in the shear size of the components that are used, that the signal from the pick up coil used on the dizzy with the bronze gear is stronger and or more precise than the HEI pancake style pick up coil. I ask because they are in a lot of high end MSD distributors. Thanks in advance. =)
I am guessing the msd type coil was meant to trigger aftermarket cdi boxes and from what I have seen, the cdi boxes are by design universal and more tolerant of various wave forms and not getting tripped up over it and they trigger off of most any pulse generator. The OE ignition modules were by design to be triggered by 1 and only 1 waveform so that is why you cant just use any type of pulse generator to trigger it. But the msd pick up coil is a proven design I am sure, but I don't know about the voltage output or resolution. I think the air gap set up in the coil to trigger wheel has a lot to do with that.
Another cause could be A/C Ripple from the alternator, have it checked or look on UA-cam for the test perimeters for your alternator. Inducing alternating current back to the tach,tps,thermal switches,mass airflow, ecm you name it can be disastrous.
This happens alot in the past few years....all the online parts are made in China or mexico...just bad quality....bad trade deals....we have horrible trade deals with other country's. We need to make our parts here in the US again. Even the manufacturers and dealerships are hard to trust....I've had similar issues buying online cheap s*^! .
Beautiful car and beautiful motor. Good lesson with the led light and magnetic force while turning. I just got my 95 gmc 1500 running and now I developed a backfire and miss. Getting a new distributor tomorrow. I usually replace the module and everything is better. But now I understand the pickup coil and how they go bad. Your Chinese distributor looks like a 80s Ford and chevy hybrid. But it has a shiny gear that makes it look really nice, lol. Are you running a obd1 system on your camaro to computer or obd2? I want to get into tuning obd 1 but I am not as familiar with it as obd 2.
EFI noise! I put a filter on my G20 Van with an aftermarket dizzy and my tach was jumping around too... I called the manufacturer and they said to add an EFI filter. I did. Problem solved!
Need some help here. I have a 305 tpi. Ever since the distributor was swapped the car hasn't been itself. It has a faint & random sputtering from the exhaust as it twitches. Almost like a cylinder firing on&off. It can be felt in the car as it happens. It didn't do this before the swap (old dizzy was trash). Also happens around 1500-2000rpm on the highway during LOW LOAD and PART THROTTLE. I know it's ignition-related because it's happening so fast and suddenly unlike a fuel issue. Also the TACH NEEDLE BOUNCE when it stutters. It's from Standard Motor Products. I've fired the parts cannon at it, new cap, rotor, pickup-coil and icm. Plugs, wires, coil, and all is new ac-delco. Nothing changed. Timing is set btdc 8°. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Oh man! Sounds similar to the problem I'm having with my 1955 Ford Customline that is running a 1967 Ford 390 cubic inch FE engine. I want to take a look at the distributor at see if it has play in the gear or what my issue is. Because I'm not sure
Hello I need that one that finally worked for you. It’s the same style in my 1989 K5 Blazer which I need. The piece on top with magnetic contacts is called reluctor ? I’m going to have to rebuild mine if I don’t find s replacement. I did pickup a pickup coil and other AC Delco parts. Excellent video
What was the voltage output when you spun the distributor on the aftermarket one vs the American made one? Put a meter on it an check if you wouldn't mind, curious what it's producing... great videos keep em commin!
Hi Collin. Thanks for the comment! Will keep the videos coming. As for the voltage, I didn't get a chance to measure it, and the car belongs to a friend. It has run well since this video was made and hasn't had to come back to my shop!
Hey I am having the same problem on my 1991 gmc just wondering if you have found anything new since your posted this video? I'm going to pull the distributor and rebuild it again, i mean there is not a whole lot that really goes bad inside them except the ecm and the pick up coil correct? Thanks linda
Iv got a problem that you maybe able to steer me in the rite direction. iv got a bone stock 95 chevy 3500hd with the 7.4 bb. Ran grate for years! Problem is when throttling up the injectors cut out & the motor looses rpm. Parts that i have replaced: Distributor module. reason for replacement: OEM one died yes motor backfired & did not have spark till new module was installed. Oil pressure sending unit. Reason for replacement: i noticed some oil pressure lose & nowing that its also linked into the fuel pump i figured perhaps the OEM unit was about to cut power to the pump at the worst possible time i.e. 3hours from no ware! Distributor cap & rotor Reason for replacement: it was time to. Spark plugs & wires Reason for replacement: Same as cap & rotor it was time to. Motor ran fine no problems. On the way back from my 3hour trip is when the problem started. So i stopped at an AutoZone to have the module & the oil sending unit warrantied out for new ones again thinking that one or the other had faltered because the oil gage dropped to zero at idle & rased to 40 driving. KEEP IN MIND! No check engine lite so no indication of any cods. I have a 160 T-stat in & have been running a 160 for years with no problems. nowing that the cooling system is designed from factory to be at 210. I prefer to keep the temp down at 160 for arizona summer temps it helps keep the oil thick so as not to run the bearings out. AFTER replacing the ignition module & the oil sending unit for the second time in less than a week there was ABSOLUTELY! no improvement in throttle response. Limped it home for the nite. Following day replaced the fuel filter & again no change in throttle. Last 3 parts i can think of is the throttle positioning sensor, fuel pump or the TBI regulator. Your help in figuring out what i should replace first would be greatly appreciated. The motor has 210,000 plus miles on it & seems to idle fine.
Hi Eddie. Sounds like you've been working hard to locate this problem and find a solution. This sort of problem can be so frustrating. I've had the sensation that the injectors cut out and lose fuel as the throttle was opened up before. It was, in this case, a failed fuel pump. My troubleshooting did involve changing the filter, which made an improvement (not a fix, just a noticeable improvement). After changing the pump, all trouble was gone. In your case, the filter didn't change anything. I would test the throttle position sensor and see that it is working. Use a voltmeter and measure the signal. Should start at about 0.5V at idle position, and slowly increase to more than 4V with the throttle wide open. (Of course, do this test with key on but engine NOT RUNNING). If you can't do that test, just change the sensor and see if the performance is improved.
Mine is doing the same thing it jumps at idel lost of power to on the freeway thought i could clean the carb by punching it starts spitting im thinking its the distributor carb is like less than a year old avs 2 650 383 stroker k5 blazer
I have 350 in .my 83 chevy Malibu wagon. I saw you have non tbi intake on YOUR motor i like to talk to about how u got your tbi going so well please. Im having issue's with mine with a mild build sbc
Use a single plane manifold with adapter for tbi on converted engines. Common plenum works fine, vacuum signal used for carbs that is enhanced with dual plane isn't relevant to fuel injection metering.
I have an accel aftermarket billetech 60109, very similar to your ebay one. My truck just surges on the cold start, was that aftermarket one doing the same to your engine? Will an aftermarket dizzy or bad one cause the surging? Just trying to isolate the issue. Has blown several ICM's as well.
+Andrew Pyle Hi Andrew. My friend purchased the original (defective) one from eBay but I don’t remember the brand. The new one I installed was from Napa.
I recently bought a distributor that looked like your GM one but where yours has some type of rivet holding the magnets on the one I have has little screws and I recently discovered them almost unscrewed completely. Can I just re tighten them or do they haft to be set a certain way? My truck has major hesitation and wants to stall when in gear at a stop.
+racebends I would install Loctite adhesive to the screws before re-installing them. You need to be sure the reluctor points are not actually touching. In other words, when you get ready to re-tighten the screws, be sure the parts are positioned in "center" so that nothing is catching or touching.
+YouTech Thanks. LOL yeah sometimes I do the same thing and comment before the video is over. I learned to type the comments in and then add to them but don't send it in until the video is over. :)
Hey man we all overlook things better judgement would makes you wanna bang your head ha my 93 K1500 Blazer a similar 350 TBI sits in and I have a receipt from advance for a dizzy in the glove box and sure as shit you dont have to have the wrong style or go with ebay parts you can get the same 1 year dizzys I'm gonna try a jegs billet to solve this things cough, owning old outboard you would speed up with a magneto not a throttle it feels like the right timing for a small rpm range and wrong for any other rpm mostly idle, a WOT bogging is a sure sign, this really is a serious issue once it gets bad enough it HAS and CAN cause enough pre det. You'll air condition a 350. 2 or 4 bolts dont matter when a fuel charge made it over time and detonated as it's coming back up and you we gunning it...it happens gladly not to me but avoid these things like the plague if you're forced to a parts store buy make sure you pull it outta the box pull the cap and give it a quality shakedown if it looks or feels like it is crummy...that's cause it is sharp casting burs arount the edge where the cap seats, pot meal dark coloring if you have an or unit still a rebuild is a good option with a delco kit if you're like me and its been swapped already jegs, accel, mad, Mallory, pertronix, good stuff! Hope this helps some people!
All of the GM electronic cap-and-rotor distributors are all HEI (high energy ignition) as GM calls them. They did change from "big cap" or "coil in cap" to "small cap" or "remote coil" around 1988. TBI does not refer to the distributor - this abbreviation is for the fuel system only "throttle body injector."
Right but when you say hei us old school guys think big cap internal coil that came out in 74 and ran to the late 80s they may call them an hei but there's no serviceable or adjustable anything in the TBI distributor whereas the hei does personally I prefer the older hei and a. Carb just for simplicity no spark ok I know where to look no fuel ok got it and it's that simple
...and the problem is, every auto part store will hand you the same poor quality, made in China junk part, regardless of where you go...if you ask for a better quality, brand name part, they will either tell you that what they have is all that is available, or tell you "We can order it, but the XXX-Brand name part is made in China, too".... :(
Most electrical issues are a bad ground,,,. Add a new separate ground from the battery to the fender and firewall,,,. Check ground from the battery to the block,,, remove scrub and clean it,,,. Ground pigtail on the solenoid,,. ??? I'd almost bet someone had removed the ,,,,, field,,,,, ground,,,.
perhaps the tach it self need to by replaced ore if it is a new age tech ore universal you need to ajust him on hei distributor those culd by voltsge spikes jumping if your economy is bether then leave it theree ever heard about tacho generators ore dc magnetos ?dual ignition? that is exacly what it culd by as well
You want a real HEI distributo..r buy mallory,I`ve owned one 10 yrs with no problems with it.I recently sold my 81 chevy malibu with the 350 5.7.I talked to the guy recently he says the distributo still going strong.
The GM uses a reluctance/coil pickup to generate pulses. No power required as it generates its own voltage. the faster it spins, the brigher the pulses.
The China distributor uses a Hall effect sensor which turns on/off when a cog on the reluctance wheel goes buy. you need to apply 5+ volts to the 1st pin, ground the 3rd pin and look for pulses between 2 and 3.
I ran TBI injection with the GM module triggered by Ford duraspark distributors, for well over 10 years without trouble on various engines, including 351 Windsor. I've also used the module triggered by a magnetic flywheel on lawn tractor engines. The duraspark pickup and rotor are identical to what's shown in your offshore distributor. As to the quality of your module, that is hard to say. But they are basically an amplifier to drive the coil, mitigated in the TBI module to transfer timing signals after start to the computer's control.
Great video, I am currently replacing my pickup coil, module, and coil. I purchased all AC Delco and Delphi parts. I hope they all work as designed! I like the LED light test on the pickup coil!
Got it running nice after that new distributor. Sounds smooth!
Thanks for the heads up! I bought an aftermarket distributor for my 350 on eBay and haven't tried it out. I'll check the pickup coil before installing.
B
I have the same issue with my 93 Blazer K1500 (k5) it has an almost constant state of the hiccups it lugs, chugs, even feels like detonation! Funny how we had something in common, aftermarket pot metal new chineese distributors! I have a whole jegs kit, polished billet distributor, which I'll pull the module and regardless add my own pc thermal compound arctic mx4 to be sure, 8mm wires and a coil which is always a nice upgrade they're always at least a drivability and quick startup enhancement! The cheap dizzies for these engines do have one nice side...at least when you gotta chuck it, the horrible firewall clearance on the blazers ain't an issue cause a lily royal purple penetrates in ng fluid and that bolt will move really easy cause someone else did the worst part, living in Chicagoland with salt, everything just corrodes in place, and theres no stopping it unless you buy gallon buckets of POR 15 lol
*69-72 1st gen K5 Blazer= full removable top
*73-75 2nd gen K5 Blazer= full removable top
*76-91 2nd gen K5 Blazer= half removable top
*92-on 3rd gen Blazer= no removable top (not a K5)
Not all Blazers are K5's and not all K5's are Blazers.
Thank you for taking the time to post this on the Tube ! Very helpful as I'm about to start putting together the engine for my '60 El Camino.
Excellent, best of luck with the 60 El Camino. Those are beautiful vehicles!
davida1hiwaaynet i want to ask you i have a 305 engine the problem is am having is the engine wont start i have spark and fuel but it wont start just cranks over and over i changed the distributor from a jy and when i try to start it it starts for a sec or 2 then shuts off it wont start again could it be the pickup coil is bad my old distributor pickup coil is broken so what could cause a no start if you have all 3 things fuel spark and compration is the distributor from the jy bad ? the engine is 305 tbi help me please thanks in advance
I just replaced my 1991 S10 distributor that i purchased from amazon with one from AutoZone and it made a heck of a difference. chinese junk from amazon vs one made in Taiwan. no more stalling or rough idling. and no i couldn't find one made in the USA. But i will rather buy parts made in Taiwan or Vietnam than china crap if I cant find USA made .
Thank you so much! Have a91 s10 v6 4.3L and just replaced dizzy only to make driving worse but your video helped so much in terms of timing and knowing i bought the right part
I love this video it is great and very informative. Not often does someone show it all the way thru. Now is that the distributor you can hook up for timing control. I have big cap hei but not looking to buy 400 dollar distributor if gm already made one that works
The only problem with the OEM is that damned ICM goes out about once a year it seems, I keep a spare now and the 7.5 mm socket just in case.
Damn thing is a pain in my ass.
Great post!!👌😎
When I was redoing my '86 Chevy truck... I purchased a number of new parts... my old HEI was working OK, but it was the original distributor, so I purchased a brand new Accel unit. Four months later, I jump in the truck to run an errand, turn the key, the truck fires, and then dies... no spark... the Control Module died... a few months after that... I'm driving along... the truck starts bucking and shaking... so I shut it off, coast to the side of the road... the timing pickup had failed... So... the only item that is left of my brand new Accel HEI Distributor is the housing and shaft.
What a shame. It's bad when you are trying to PREVENT this type of problem, and instead you cause them. :(
It sure is... I guess the lesson is the name brand isn't always the best option. lol
Turbolq4 ditto. Two weeks ago I had a new hei accel coil burn up my module going down a highway. Luckily I had a stock coil and another module with me. Ha ha (sarcasm). :/
Oh shit ,just replaced the wifes Chinese distributor with an accell . Have an old accell in my Mopar but its hooked up to an msd 6al , never a problem just hope that Hei is ok.
3-8-18 Update. The Ignition Module was the issue with the China Distributor. The new one failed. I replaced it with a new BWD it faild too. I never had a issue with the stock unit. So it's off to buy a American made Dizzy. China boycott don't buy. Their cheaper for a reason. The pick ups are causing the issue with fouling out the module's.
Those parts look like from a Ford magnetic distributor, but the problem is the wide gap. I have used Ford distributors with GM TBI units on Ford V8 with no problems. Module failure is usually due to bad ground to module.
+CerebusTV
I completely agree about the wide gap. That is bad, as well as the wide, blunt shape of the tooth profile. The profile needs to be sharp so that the two "points" pass each other very cleanly. This will generate a much sharper, more well-defined firing pulse into the module.
The air gap can be adjusted, which is why in this video the magnetic force could not be felt as he turned the shaft. The poles are too far apart.
Yes but those sharper points have less surface area than the side mounted pick up coil. One would think that a larger magnet would generate at least an equivalent strength signal. The air gap can be adjusted and makes a difference. I think 18 thousandths is the optimum gap.
I know this is old video but what evidently the ebay dizzy is meant to run is a NON est system, just a mag pick up to run a locked out timing set up with a MSD type box, I know from lots of experimentation that a HEI module only works with the 'star' type reluctor with the ring type 'pole' piece. If you scope the two sensors, the Chrysler one should be a smooth ac wave, the gm hei set up is real spikey with sharp narrow peaks. They don't work with a smooth Chrysler type ac signal, at least when I have tried. I know this cause I have tried to use hei modules to run other ignition systems when their modules are either unobtainable or sky hi in price or unreliable, which these hei modules lately are all bunk too now.
+twoturbo468. Perhaps you can shed some light on a query I have about those two types of (magnetic) pick up coils. Is it possible just from the difference in the shear size of the components that are used, that the signal from the pick up coil used on the dizzy with the bronze gear is stronger and or more precise than the HEI pancake style pick up coil. I ask because they are in a lot of high end MSD distributors. Thanks in advance. =)
I am guessing the msd type coil was meant to trigger aftermarket cdi boxes and from what I have seen, the cdi boxes are by design universal and more tolerant of various wave forms and not getting tripped up over it and they trigger off of most any pulse generator. The OE ignition modules were by design to be triggered by 1 and only 1 waveform so that is why you cant just use any type of pulse generator to trigger it. But the msd pick up coil is a proven design I am sure, but I don't know about the voltage output or resolution. I think the air gap set up in the coil to trigger wheel has a lot to do with that.
Another cause could be A/C Ripple from the alternator, have it checked or look on UA-cam for the test perimeters for your alternator. Inducing alternating current back to the tach,tps,thermal switches,mass airflow, ecm you name it can be disastrous.
This happens alot in the past few years....all the online parts are made in China or mexico...just bad quality....bad trade deals....we have horrible trade deals with other country's. We need to make our parts here in the US again. Even the manufacturers and dealerships are hard to trust....I've had similar issues buying online cheap s*^! .
Excellent, thanks
Beautiful car and beautiful motor. Good lesson with the led light and magnetic force while turning. I just got my 95 gmc 1500 running and now I developed a backfire and miss. Getting a new distributor tomorrow. I usually replace the module and everything is better. But now I understand the pickup coil and how they go bad. Your Chinese distributor looks like a 80s Ford and chevy hybrid. But it has a shiny gear that makes it look really nice, lol. Are you running a obd1 system on your camaro to computer or obd2? I want to get into tuning obd 1 but I am not as familiar with it as obd 2.
EFI noise! I put a filter on my G20 Van with an aftermarket dizzy and my tach was jumping around too... I called the manufacturer and they said to add an EFI filter. I did. Problem solved!
Where did you buy the USA made distributor?
Need some help here. I have a 305 tpi. Ever since the distributor was swapped the car hasn't been itself. It has a faint & random sputtering from the exhaust as it twitches.
Almost like a cylinder firing on&off. It can be felt in the car as it happens. It didn't do this before the swap (old dizzy was trash). Also happens around 1500-2000rpm on the highway during LOW LOAD and PART THROTTLE. I know it's ignition-related because it's happening so fast and suddenly unlike a fuel issue. Also the TACH NEEDLE BOUNCE when it stutters.
It's from Standard Motor Products.
I've fired the parts cannon at it, new cap, rotor, pickup-coil and icm. Plugs, wires, coil, and all is new ac-delco. Nothing changed. Timing is set btdc 8°. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Oh man! Sounds similar to the problem I'm having with my 1955 Ford Customline that is running a 1967 Ford 390 cubic inch FE engine. I want to take a look at the distributor at see if it has play in the gear or what my issue is. Because I'm not sure
Hello I need that one that finally worked for you. It’s the same style in my 1989 K5 Blazer which I need. The piece on top with magnetic contacts is called reluctor ? I’m going to have to rebuild mine if I don’t find s replacement. I did pickup a pickup coil and other AC Delco parts. Excellent video
What was the voltage output when you spun the distributor on the aftermarket one vs the American made one? Put a meter on it an check if you wouldn't mind, curious what it's producing... great videos keep em commin!
Hi Collin. Thanks for the comment! Will keep the videos coming. As for the voltage, I didn't get a chance to measure it, and the car belongs to a friend. It has run well since this video was made and hasn't had to come back to my shop!
Hey I am having the same problem on my 1991 gmc just wondering if you have found anything new since your posted this video? I'm going to pull the distributor and rebuild it again, i mean there is not a whole lot that really goes bad inside them except the ecm and the pick up coil correct? Thanks linda
Belden from NAPA makes modules and pickups here in the USA. Even Delphi stuff is Chinese garbage.
It sounds like it's electric, my first go to would be your initial one with going to the wires..
Is it preferable to buy a remanufactured GM original distributor from RockAuto?
I have a feeling that would be your best bet!
I bought a reman from rockauto & the ICM cooked in less than 200mi. The rebuilder didn't use any thermal paste on it.
does your engine bog down after it gets warm?
Iv got a problem that you maybe able to steer me in the rite direction.
iv got a bone stock 95 chevy 3500hd with the 7.4 bb.
Ran grate for years! Problem is when throttling up the injectors cut out & the motor looses rpm.
Parts that i have replaced:
Distributor module.
reason for replacement: OEM one died yes motor backfired & did not have spark till new module was installed.
Oil pressure sending unit. Reason for replacement:
i noticed some oil pressure lose & nowing that its also linked into the fuel pump i figured perhaps the OEM unit was about to cut power to the pump at the worst possible time i.e.
3hours from no ware!
Distributor cap & rotor
Reason for replacement: it was time to.
Spark plugs & wires
Reason for replacement:
Same as cap & rotor it was time to.
Motor ran fine no problems.
On the way back from my 3hour trip is when the problem started. So i stopped at an AutoZone to have the module & the oil sending unit warrantied out for new ones again thinking that one or the other had faltered because the oil gage dropped to zero at idle & rased to 40 driving.
KEEP IN MIND! No check engine lite so no indication of any cods.
I have a 160 T-stat in & have been running a 160 for years with no problems.
nowing that the cooling system is designed from factory to be at 210.
I prefer to keep the temp down at 160 for arizona summer temps it helps keep the oil thick so as not to run the bearings out.
AFTER replacing the ignition module & the oil sending unit for the second time in less than a week there was ABSOLUTELY! no improvement in throttle response.
Limped it home for the nite.
Following day replaced the fuel filter & again no change in throttle.
Last 3 parts i can think of is the throttle positioning sensor, fuel pump or the TBI regulator.
Your help in figuring out what i should replace first would be greatly appreciated.
The motor has 210,000 plus miles on it & seems to idle fine.
Hi Eddie. Sounds like you've been working hard to locate this problem and find a solution. This sort of problem can be so frustrating.
I've had the sensation that the injectors cut out and lose fuel as the throttle was opened up before. It was, in this case, a failed fuel pump. My troubleshooting did involve changing the filter, which made an improvement (not a fix, just a noticeable improvement). After changing the pump, all trouble was gone.
In your case, the filter didn't change anything. I would test the throttle position sensor and see that it is working. Use a voltmeter and measure the signal. Should start at about 0.5V at idle position, and slowly increase to more than 4V with the throttle wide open. (Of course, do this test with key on but engine NOT RUNNING).
If you can't do that test, just change the sensor and see if the performance is improved.
davida1hiwaaynet
I'll give that a shot & let yah know the out come later this afternoon after work.
davida1hiwaaynet
AutoZone has there brand on that sensor.
& checker/O'Reilly has BWD brand wich one you think i should go for?
I've had pretty good luck with the BWD brand, actually.
davida1hiwaaynet
Thanks again im headed rite now to go get that part & brand
Mine is doing the same thing it jumps at idel lost of power to on the freeway thought i could clean the carb by punching it starts spitting im thinking its the distributor carb is like less than a year old avs 2 650 383 stroker k5 blazer
I have 350 in .my 83 chevy Malibu wagon. I saw you have non tbi intake on YOUR motor i like to talk to about how u got your tbi going so well please. Im having issue's with mine with a mild build sbc
Use a single plane manifold with adapter for tbi on converted engines. Common plenum works fine, vacuum signal used for carbs that is enhanced with dual plane isn't relevant to fuel injection metering.
@@vanstechcorral thank you
I have an accel aftermarket billetech 60109, very similar to your ebay one. My truck just surges on the cold start, was that aftermarket one doing the same to your engine? Will an aftermarket dizzy or bad one cause the surging? Just trying to isolate the issue. Has blown several ICM's as well.
What model and brand of distributor did you use for replacement?
+Andrew Pyle
Hi Andrew. My friend purchased the original (defective)
one from eBay but I don’t remember the brand.
The new one I installed was from Napa.
I recently bought a distributor that looked like your GM one but where yours has some type of rivet holding the magnets on the one I have has little screws and I recently discovered them almost unscrewed completely. Can I just re tighten them or do they haft to be set a certain way? My truck has major hesitation and wants to stall when in gear at a stop.
+racebends
I would install Loctite adhesive to the screws before re-installing them. You need to be sure the reluctor points are not actually touching. In other words, when you get ready to re-tighten the screws, be sure the parts are positioned in "center" so that nothing is catching or touching.
+davida1hiwaaynet Thank you and will do that.
Hey what tbi year you running on thst sbc and what intake?
Their junk. I purchased a Chinese made dizzy off ebay for 50.00 for my 1975 pontiac. It faild 3 months later.
Every part I buy is never made in the USA even when buying from Napa.
its in your distributor...
Sorry, made my first comment, half way through seeing the rest of the video. lol good job.
+YouTech
Thanks.
LOL yeah sometimes I do the same thing and comment before the video is over. I learned to type the comments in and then add to them but don't send it in until the video is over. :)
where did u buy the dist that finally worked
I believe it came from NAPA.
Hey man we all overlook things better judgement would makes you wanna bang your head ha my 93 K1500 Blazer a similar 350 TBI sits in and I have a receipt from advance for a dizzy in the glove box and sure as shit you dont have to have the wrong style or go with ebay parts you can get the same 1 year dizzys I'm gonna try a jegs billet to solve this things cough, owning old outboard you would speed up with a magneto not a throttle it feels like the right timing for a small rpm range and wrong for any other rpm mostly idle, a WOT bogging is a sure sign, this really is a serious issue once it gets bad enough it HAS and CAN cause enough pre det. You'll air condition a 350. 2 or 4 bolts dont matter when a fuel charge made it over time and detonated as it's coming back up and you we gunning it...it happens gladly not to me but avoid these things like the plague if you're forced to a parts store buy make sure you pull it outta the box pull the cap and give it a quality shakedown if it looks or feels like it is crummy...that's cause it is sharp casting burs arount the edge where the cap seats, pot meal dark coloring if you have an or unit still a rebuild is a good option with a delco kit if you're like me and its been swapped already jegs, accel, mad, Mallory, pertronix, good stuff! Hope this helps some people!
Those are TBI distributors right.not old big head HEI,s I am right.HEI up to 1987.tbi 1988 to.
All of the GM electronic cap-and-rotor distributors are all HEI (high energy ignition) as GM calls them. They did change from "big cap" or "coil in cap" to "small cap" or "remote coil" around 1988. TBI does not refer to the distributor - this abbreviation is for the fuel system only "throttle body injector."
Right but when you say hei us old school guys think big cap internal coil that came out in 74 and ran to the late 80s they may call them an hei but there's no serviceable or adjustable anything in the TBI distributor whereas the hei does personally I prefer the older hei and a. Carb just for simplicity no spark ok I know where to look no fuel ok got it and it's that simple
What's the name of that led light you used to test it?
...and the problem is, every auto part store will hand you the same poor quality, made in China junk part, regardless of where you go...if you ask for a better quality, brand name part, they will either tell you that what they have is all that is available, or tell you "We can order it, but the XXX-Brand name part is made in China, too".... :(
What was your solution to fix this issue?
I wanna know what exhaust on that thing?? X-pipe? Mufflers?
Is there anyone can tell some thing about "ultra power " brand ?
I am not sure about the quality of this distributor
Sure glad I seen this before I bought that eBay slop.
do like I did go to the junk yard get an old one for 15 dollars and your on the road.
what type of header/exhaust setup?
Is that a tbi
Yes, it is.
Another sad victim of a Chinesium distributor.
Most electrical issues are a bad ground,,,. Add a new separate ground from the battery to the fender and firewall,,,. Check ground from the battery to the block,,, remove scrub and clean it,,,. Ground pigtail on the solenoid,,. ??? I'd almost bet someone had removed the ,,,,, field,,,,, ground,,,.
perhaps the tach it self need to by replaced ore if it is a new age tech ore universal you need to ajust him on hei distributor those culd by voltsge spikes jumping if your economy is bether then leave it theree ever heard about tacho generators ore dc magnetos ?dual ignition? that is exacly what it culd by as well
You want a real HEI distributo..r buy mallory,I`ve owned one 10 yrs with no problems with it.I recently sold my 81 chevy malibu with the 350 5.7.I talked to the guy recently he says the distributo still going strong.
+350toocute
The Mallory distributors are well made; however they are not compatible with the engine ECM that controls the spark advance curve.
I'd run an msd
True mate, Never had a problem with Msd and they make a huge difference on hot mopars.