Thanks Nico. I’ve been building Gunpla since I was 10, and I’m 34 now. I just recently got back into the hobby, and I’m doing my first custom paint job on a MG Unicorn. Your videos, and other UA-camrs videos have been very helpful!
I've been waiting to customise my own Gusion for a couple of years now and just started to get into the thick of customs. Def a huge help, especially when it comes to the brands accessible here in the PH
This was awesome, do you think you could try brush painting an example kit for us? would love to see how close to an airbrush like finish is acheivable, especially with those harder to paint colors like whites. Thanks for the guide.
just starting with gunpla i used to do warhammer a long time ago and i find they are pretty similar to work with i recomend anyone who wants an equally good finish as an airbrush to investigate about the dry brush technique its a really time consuming method and it will burn through a lot of cheap brushes overtime but its definitly worth it. Also priming by hand is doable if u pre-assemble the important sections because u dont need to paint anything that is not seeable in the figure just make sure that u paint over anything hidden by the articulations that can be revealed like cockpits, backpacs etc Good video!
I love this, I want to start customising/paining my gunpla. Air bursh seems a lot of hassle and require a lot of space. So hand paint would be my choice. This is helpful.
Great tutorial. Honestly made me want to take the next step in customizing kits from just simple panel line and decals. .to full on painting kits.... Would love to have an in depth tutorial on your take regarding top coats as well. Like what to use it what, or what not to use with what, order of operations...Coz I've just been using matte spray cans for the longest time and not sure when glossy is needed and when matte/satin is..I know they convey different feels to the kit...
I was just looking for an alternative to airbrush since I wanted to start painting and dont have a place for an airbrush! Dont really have a place to apply the primer but I guess I can do it using a cardboard box
There are also brush-on primers which you can handpaint, I just find it too time-consuming and not as efficient as spray cans especially when working on commissions, but for personal builds and if you’re not too worried about how fast you can get your project done, handpainting primers is a good option
hi I'm having trouble with using DSPIAE markers for painting and outlining on my MS Ensemble Part 19 model. When I try to create outlines and erase them using Mr. Paint Remover, the original paint comes off too, and using X20 leaves smudges. What can I do to resolve this? I'm worried about buying panel line paint and facing the same issue.
Excellent video. I saw that in the demonstration you use the game color, would it be possible to use the mecha line? And about the primer, do you have any recommendations for using it with a brush?
Mecha color is specially formulated to be used with an airbrush so it’s a bit glazy and trickier to use for handpainting. I believe The Army Painter has a brush-on primer
Nice tuto! I'm about to hand paint my RG RX-78-2 2.0 , What are the best paints in your opinion? Especially white, where most of the paints out there are clumpy...
Most water-based acrylic paints are just about the same with each other, you can choose between, Vallejo, Army Painter, AK, Ammo and Greenstuff World and they should all work as intended. White is always tricky to paint whether via handbrush or airbrush but it should never be clumpy. White tends to be transparent and requires multiple coats so just be patient with it. Thin properly and apply multiple light coats.
Love the video, but a question; how does it handle around the joints? Does the primer help? I painted a 30mm and when i moved its joints it lost a bit of the paint i added to him😢
So no matter the paint used, the paint will inevitably get scratched or flake off around the joints area or any part that gets a lot of friction or moves frequently, so what you do is either: sand the joints a little to accomodate for the paint layer. (not sanding it, makes it tighter because you added another layer, which is the paint, so sanding it beforehand gets rid of the tight problem and prevents the paint from flaking) Or tape the joints with masking tape before painting, this means the joints won’t be painted (which is fine since it’s not visible anyways) so you won’t get any paints flaking off when you assemble it together and it assembles just like before since there’s no paint on the joints.
Not really. Primer is something that helps the paint "cling" on to the plastic. It creates a buffer (or a rough surface) which is something you can't replicate with a gloss clear coat, simply because anything glossy is smooth. Smooth = no buffer for the paint to cling on. If you don't have primer, you can use a MATTE clear coat. Or you can try without any primer if its rattle cans (try on spoon first or spare runner)
There are different types of primer. If your rattle cans says they are acrylic, then if you get the same brand of primer, then it would also be acrylic.
Any acrylic-based varnishes can be used for handpainting like Vallejo, Army painter, etc. (you might also be able to find actual varnishes formulated for handbrushing) But, it can be tricky to handpaint topcoats and durability might not be the best, so if you’re able to, I’d suggest using rattle cans for topcoat.
Clean up depends on the type of paint used. Generally it’s better to avoid mistakes since correcting them can be a hassle. Using a good quality brush and doing thin layers usually prevents mistakes. But for Enamel paint. While wet: Immediately use a clean, damp brush or cotton swab dipped in thinner to gently lift the wet paint. For acrylic paints, Before the paint dries: If you act quickly enough, simply dip a clean, damp brush in water (not dripping) and gently dab the mistake to lift the paint. Be careful not to spread the mistake further. Touch-up: Once you've removed the mistake, you can carefully repaint the area using the correct color. Practice: The more you practice, the easier it will become to avoid and correct mistakes.
If you’re using waterbased acrylics, then it can be removed with water however if it’s dried already and you’re having a hard time to remove it, then the best option is to simply repaint over your mistake. It’s a hassle that’s why it’s best to take things slow and avoid mistakes as much as possible
Hello, sorry if this is already mentioned but what paint brushes types and size you recommend for beginner like totally zero. I want to start doing other models like airplanes also so i want to be prepared.
I really appreciate you making this tutorial since it answers a lot of my questions and I still don't currently have access to airbrushing setup. Do you have any suggestions for Topcoat Spray? Mr. Hobby topcoat matte has been out of stocks for a while now, and I wanted some alternatives that would work on water based acrylics (hiro/valejo). If not, I'll just hand brush it with normal matt varnish
Handpainting topcoats can be tricky and time consuming so using an airbrush or spray can has always been the preferred method but handpainting it is semi-doable with satin and gloss finishes. A matte finish, however, is hard to handpaint due to it’s formulation. You won’t get a matte finish by handpainting
Primer is recommended before painting, especially large surface areas. for small details (like eyes or color separation) you can get away with not priming but it won’t be as sturdy and durable (more chances of the paint flaking off or just rubbing off entirely.)
Better to test on a spoon first. Bosny is said to be a lacquer acrylic which is probably not compatible on top of acrylics. Bosny’s topcoat is also a bit too thick for Gunpla, it might flood the details.
Is this applicable to PVCs? Like pokemon tomytakara moncolle or bandai pokemon scale world? I might try the things you are using as a beginner. But I want to watch more tutorials. Can you give links where you buy the items too?
Sure you can! My dad uses them all the time :) Just be mindful of how many coats and how heavy you apply it since miniatures are a lot smaller so the details can get flooded easily.
If you were going to panel line/add decals, would you still hit it with a gloss coat first, go through that process, and then matte top coat at the very end?
Most people say to use primer for base coat then paint. I believe it’s because the paint won’t stick to the bare plastic as nicely as it will with the primer
Thanks for the tutorial! Very informative. But I still can’t figure out how to get smooth strokes when I paint. I have been using a wet pallet. Trying to get the acrylic paint to a smooth consistency on the pallet first. But no matter what I do it looks so bad lol. I have been practicing on primed spoons so I don’t ruin my kits. Any way. Thanks again. And I will be coming back to this vid till I figure out my issue lol 😅
Sometimes the paints themselves could be the issue, try experimenting with different brands to find the one that you’re most comfortable with, one that you prefer and find easy to use than others.
Hi Nico! Can you recommend these paints, as well as the handbrushing technique, if i want my model kit to have a glossy finish later by applying a gloss top coat and/or compound polish ? Or should i stick with spraypaints?
For a glossy finish, using spray cans generally provides a smoother, more even result compared to hand painting. Spray cans can apply a consistent coat of paint without visible brush strokes. If you’re hand painting and want to achieve a glossy finish, it would require more work. Spray cans simplify the process, especially for larger surfaces.
@@NicoSuratos Nice! You've answered my next question. Spray paint then for the larger parts, just to be safe, and hand painting perhaps for the smaller ones! I really appreciate your very informative, less technical tutorial videos. Thank you Nico!
Hi Nico, first of all thank you for your tutorials, always very helpful! I've just two questions (the first simple, the second a little less so). 1. I just bought the exact same wet palette. So basically, from what I understood, if I use acrylics colors (Vallejo), there is no need to use thinner, because the palette being already wet, itself acts as a thinner, correct? 2. Regarding the handpaint, you suggest to use primer first (and I agree), but in my case, I've some pieces already painted with Tamiya TS spray cans (and I don't use primer as first coat when I use Tamiya spray cans beacuse they very durable/aggressive since they're laquers basically - unlike airbrushing where the primer is mandatory). In these pieces already spray cans painted, if I want to add some small details by hand painting (circuits, pipes and stuff like that), what should I do? Masking all the piece (except the part I want to paint by hand), primer it, and then hand paint these details? Thank you very much from Italy!
Thank you for watching my tutorials! I’m glad they’re helpful! 1. For wet palettes, only use water for it. Do not wet it with thinner or any other liquids. 2. In this case, You don’t need to apply primer, since the parts are already painted with spray cans, you can go ahead and handpaint on top, I’m pretty sure the paints will stick.
Yes, hiro paints are water-based They have a new line of paints that are lacquer-based though, so be sure to check if what you have are their acrylic water based paints
I don’t use paint markers po eh but it’s basically just like using colored pencils on coloring books except you’re using it on gunpla hehe. I suggest sanding first before primer but you can also prime without sanding everything
That acrylic paint is like the one you use for paper? Does it adhere well to the primer? I would like to try something like this, don't want the paint to peel off later. Very nice video by the way, very useful!!
The paints are acrylics but they are hobby paints. So it’s meant to work well for Gunpla and Model kits, it’s different from the acrylic paints you use on paper.
Hey Nico, nice video! Because of this video, I wanted to invest in a size 4 Da Vinci Maestro Kolinsky Sable brush in the near future. However, while I was looking into what was available, I saw Flat Brushes which are also under Da Vinci Maestro(so they are also Kolinsky Sable). Do you think they could be useful as well? Or do you think should I stick to round brushes for basecoating Gunpla? Thanks in advance!
Always good to have both, but generally round brushes are more versatile and better suited for most painting tasks. Easier to have brushstrokes with flat brushes if not careful.
Hello po, tanong ko lang po kung pag nilagyan ng primer specifically spray can, maapektuhan po ba yung pagkabit ng mga parts (mahirap ikabit) at articulation? thank you po
i appreciate the help and id like to ask a question, i’m only planning to paint small areas with gray, should i use a thinner or just water? should i also prime it or dont because its only a small area
Thinner and water are interchangeable. If you don’t have thinner then use water and vice versa. Or if you prefer one over the other then use that. I still recommend using primer even for small areas as it helps the paint stick better but there are also instances where you can forego the primer. Try on a test piece and see which one works better for you, with primer or without
@@NicoSuratos I'm worrying that it would ruin the plastic due to its "industrial" use of the spray can atleast from what I'm seeing on internet. What I plan is to apply primer, color, then the clear matte finish. I guess it takes practice to perfect using these type of cans. I cant wait to start spray painting actually since its my first time.
Hiro paints are actually specially formulated to be for handpainting, so you can use it straight from the bottle since the consistency is already right
I think I saw you guys at the toycon, I think one of your entry was the unicorn. Btw how is the quality of bosny primer? Durability and texture wise. I don't have my airbrush with me right now and I don't think hand painting a waterbased primer is ideal for a gunpla because the constant movement of parts may cause some chipping or is it just fine and I'm just over reacting? Lol
The unicorn is my dad’s work! Bosny works well as a primer, esp if you know how to use spray cans. Waterbased primer also works fine, it’s what I used for most of my gunpla builds. If you play with your gunpla or change the pose often, then just use bosny
@@NicoSuratos I don't really move my gunplas a lot since I mostly do diorama but I do a lot of dynamic poses and sometimes man handling my work while doing so lol. awesome paint job by your dad btw.
you can handpaint with lacquer paints but the process can be more challenging than using other types of paint, so I don’t recommend it. But a friend of mine who’s big in the figure painting community and does it for a living handpaints with purely lacquer paints. But again it’s not as easy to use than other types of paint, which is why in the video, I mentioned that Acrylic Paints are the popular choice for handpainting. Tamiya despite being an Acrylic paint is Alcohol-based so it’s not recommended to mix it with water. However, Tamiya does provide a specially formulated thinner that can be used to thin and dilute the paints, which is also alcohol-based. Vallejo, AK, Citadel and all the other paints I showed in the video are Water-based acrylic paints which conveniently is the most common type of paint used today, so you can thin those with water and it’s perfectly fine.
I still recommend a primer to make the paint adhere better but if you don’t want to use a primer, you can also slightly sand the surface and make it a bit rough so it’s easier to apply the paint since the surface is not that smooth.
Oooo I just saw this, the dare, it finally happened bois! though it's not the whole kit which is totally understandable, cuz GBWC?? btw so excited to see it up close. (went there on the first day of submissions, I believed yours wasn't there yet?) From now on this will be one of my reference guide for hand painting for like forevaaa till I finally quit the hobby (I hoped not lol)
Someday I will paint a whole kit! 😆 just got home from submitting my entry actually, I’m one of the last ones to submit. Thanks for watching and liking the video!
Common mistake when hand painting gunpla : do not apply too much paint ! Paint layers thickness make panel lines disappear and pieces misfit when rebuilding. So be as thin as possible and avoid mat paints if you want to do panel lining.
This is why I have other videos where I mention how to prepare gunpla for painting and avoid these mistakes, plus most water based acrylic paints self levels while drying, especially vallejo colors. Therefore, thickness of paint is almost never an issue
Lol I said using spray cans is the best option IF you have the means to do it. Also mentioned that handpainting primer is doable, I just have gripes about it considering it takes a long time and isn’t efficient.
this kid is legitimately more helpful than most model painting channels that are out there
Thank you! I appreciate that!
I will second that!
Thanks Nico. I’ve been building Gunpla since I was 10, and I’m 34 now. I just recently got back into the hobby, and I’m doing my first custom paint job on a MG Unicorn. Your videos, and other UA-camrs videos have been very helpful!
Thank you as well! I’m glad the videos helped!
I just started hand brush and this is a very good guide! helps a lot
Glad it was helpful!
I've been waiting to customise my own Gusion for a couple of years now and just started to get into the thick of customs.
Def a huge help, especially when it comes to the brands accessible here in the PH
Great tutorial! Helped a lot with me painting some old 1/100 Layzner kits!
Glad it helped!
Dude you are a badass! It has been so hard finding videos that explain all this stuff for beginners. Thank you for making this hobby easier.
Thank you for watching! I'm glad you found it helpful!
This was awesome, do you think you could try brush painting an example kit for us? would love to see how close to an airbrush like finish is acheivable, especially with those harder to paint colors like whites. Thanks for the guide.
I will definitely add that to the list, just need to find the time to work on it :)
just starting with gunpla i used to do warhammer a long time ago and i find they are pretty similar to work with i recomend anyone who wants an equally good finish as an airbrush to investigate about the dry brush technique its a really time consuming method and it will burn through a lot of cheap brushes overtime but its definitly worth it. Also priming by hand is doable if u pre-assemble the important sections because u dont need to paint anything that is not seeable in the figure just make sure that u paint over anything hidden by the articulations that can be revealed like cockpits, backpacs etc
Good video!
I love this, I want to start customising/paining my gunpla.
Air bursh seems a lot of hassle and require a lot of space.
So hand paint would be my choice.
This is helpful.
Thanks for watching! Glad you liked it!
Great tutorial. Honestly made me want to take the next step in customizing kits from just simple panel line and decals. .to full on painting kits....
Would love to have an in depth tutorial on your take regarding top coats as well. Like what to use it what, or what not to use with what, order of operations...Coz I've just been using matte spray cans for the longest time and not sure when glossy is needed and when matte/satin is..I know they convey different feels to the kit...
Thanks for watching!
Funny that you mentioned it, but I actually just wrote a script for a video about topcoats yesterday! So it’s definitely coming!
Very helpful, clear and informative. I want to restore my old kits due to neglect. Will apply it to my SD kits first for trial 😅
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for your tips.
Looks good surface!!!
Thanks for watching!
I was just looking for an alternative to airbrush since I wanted to start painting and dont have a place for an airbrush!
Dont really have a place to apply the primer but I guess I can do it using a cardboard box
There are also brush-on primers which you can handpaint, I just find it too time-consuming and not as efficient as spray cans especially when working on commissions, but for personal builds and if you’re not too worried about how fast you can get your project done, handpainting primers is a good option
Great vid, thanks!
Thanks for watching!
Great tutorial, keep it up!
hi I'm having trouble with using DSPIAE markers for painting and outlining on my MS Ensemble Part 19 model. When I try to create outlines and erase them using Mr. Paint Remover, the original paint comes off too, and using X20 leaves smudges.
What can I do to resolve this? I'm worried about buying panel line paint and facing the same issue.
MS Ensemble model material feel like a rubber
Maybe try varnishing before doing the outline
Excellent video. I saw that in the demonstration you use the game color, would it be possible to use the mecha line? And about the primer, do you have any recommendations for using it with a brush?
Mecha color is specially formulated to be used with an airbrush so it’s a bit glazy and trickier to use for handpainting. I believe The Army Painter has a brush-on primer
Nice tuto! I'm about to hand paint my RG RX-78-2 2.0 , What are the best paints in your opinion? Especially white, where most of the paints out there are clumpy...
Most water-based acrylic paints are just about the same with each other, you can choose between, Vallejo, Army Painter, AK, Ammo and Greenstuff World and they should all work as intended. White is always tricky to paint whether via handbrush or airbrush but it should never be clumpy. White tends to be transparent and requires multiple coats so just be patient with it. Thin properly and apply multiple light coats.
Love the video, but a question; how does it handle around the joints? Does the primer help? I painted a 30mm and when i moved its joints it lost a bit of the paint i added to him😢
So no matter the paint used, the paint will inevitably get scratched or flake off around the joints area or any part that gets a lot of friction or moves frequently, so what you do is either:
sand the joints a little to accomodate for the paint layer. (not sanding it, makes it tighter because you added another layer, which is the paint, so sanding it beforehand gets rid of the tight problem and prevents the paint from flaking)
Or tape the joints with masking tape before painting, this means the joints won’t be painted (which is fine since it’s not visible anyways) so you won’t get any paints flaking off when you assemble it together and it assembles just like before since there’s no paint on the joints.
I want to just paint thrusters, I'm going to use rattle cans, can I just you a gloss clear coat as a primer?
Not really. Primer is something that helps the paint "cling" on to the plastic. It creates a buffer (or a rough surface) which is something you can't replicate with a gloss clear coat, simply because anything glossy is smooth.
Smooth = no buffer for the paint to cling on.
If you don't have primer, you can use a MATTE clear coat. Or you can try without any primer if its rattle cans (try on spoon first or spare runner)
@@NicoSuratos ahh OK thank you!
I have Matte Clear coat, maybe I'll get some primer anyways 😁
Is the primer acrylic as well?
There are different types of primer. If your rattle cans says they are acrylic, then if you get the same brand of primer, then it would also be acrylic.
@@NicoSuratos ace, thank you.
I am so proud that you are a Filipino! Do you have any recommendations on top coats for hand painting
Any acrylic-based varnishes can be used for handpainting like Vallejo, Army painter, etc. (you might also be able to find actual varnishes formulated for handbrushing) But, it can be tricky to handpaint topcoats and durability might not be the best, so if you’re able to, I’d suggest using rattle cans for topcoat.
I want to give it a try to do this but let's say im painting small details but i messed but hiw do i clean it up ???
Clean up depends on the type of paint used. Generally it’s better to avoid mistakes since correcting them can be a hassle. Using a good quality brush and doing thin layers usually prevents mistakes.
But for Enamel paint. While wet: Immediately use a clean, damp brush or cotton swab dipped in thinner to gently lift the wet paint.
For acrylic paints, Before the paint dries: If you act quickly enough, simply dip a clean, damp brush in water (not dripping) and gently dab the mistake to lift the paint. Be careful not to spread the mistake further.
Touch-up: Once you've removed the mistake, you can carefully repaint the area using the correct color.
Practice: The more you practice, the easier it will become to avoid and correct mistakes.
Great video Nico
Thanks!
How do I remove mistake for partial painting of a parts? For example only wanted to paint a portion of those thrusters but overpainted.
If you’re using waterbased acrylics, then it can be removed with water however if it’s dried already and you’re having a hard time to remove it, then the best option is to simply repaint over your mistake. It’s a hassle that’s why it’s best to take things slow and avoid mistakes as much as possible
Can I ask advice for handpainting varnishes? Particularly Thinning them and how many coats do we need to do
I might do a tutorial regarding this but it’s generally just the same with handpainting paints.
@@NicoSuratos Salamat sa tulong appreciate it po
Hello, sorry if this is already mentioned but what paint brushes types and size you recommend for beginner like totally zero. I want to start doing other models like airplanes also so i want to be prepared.
Kolinsky Sable Brushes, size 2 and 4. Round tip brushes.
@@NicoSuratosthank you very muchh ❤
Hi ! Learning a lot from your videos. Between Creos Aqueous color & Acrysion, which one is similar to vallejo acrylic paint?
Both are similar. Aqueous and Acrysion are both water-based acrylic paints just like Vallejo.
@ thanks nico!
Welcome!
I really appreciate you making this tutorial since it answers a lot of my questions and I still don't currently have access to airbrushing setup. Do you have any suggestions for Topcoat Spray? Mr. Hobby topcoat matte has been out of stocks for a while now, and I wanted some alternatives that would work on water based acrylics (hiro/valejo). If not, I'll just hand brush it with normal matt varnish
Best alternative is Tamiya Spray Cans. Then the other one is Bosny Matte Spray Can BUT be careful not to overspray, just light coats for the Bosny
@@NicoSuratos Thank you!
where can i buy this paints?
Is it ok to handbrush top coat? If yes, i hope you have a tutorial soon.
Handpainting topcoats can be tricky and time consuming so using an airbrush or spray can has always been the preferred method but handpainting it is semi-doable with satin and gloss finishes. A matte finish, however, is hard to handpaint due to it’s formulation. You won’t get a matte finish by handpainting
hello, I'm new to this. Can I use Mr Hobby primer instead of Bosny brand?
Yes of course, use whatever primer you prefer
Great video ty full of good info
Glad it was helpful!
do i need to use primer can i paint with acrylic without using primer?
Primer is recommended before painting, especially large surface areas. for small details (like eyes or color separation) you can get away with not priming but it won’t be as sturdy and durable (more chances of the paint flaking off or just rubbing off entirely.)
Pwede ba yung bosny clear ang ipang ttopcoat ko sa gundam model? Hiro at Arkom ang gamit kong Waterbased paints.
Better to test on a spoon first. Bosny is said to be a lacquer acrylic which is probably not compatible on top of acrylics. Bosny’s topcoat is also a bit too thick for Gunpla, it might flood the details.
@@NicoSuratos thank you ❤
Is this applicable to PVCs? Like pokemon tomytakara moncolle or bandai pokemon scale world?
I might try the things you are using as a beginner. But I want to watch more tutorials.
Can you give links where you buy the items too?
Also, after painting. you will use the varnish? to protect the paint?
It would stick but the durability might possibly not be the best. Try sanding the parts first before applying the paint.
Yes, varnish after.
Great video! Btw, might i ask if Bosny primer paint is Suitable for warhammer minis?
Sure you can! My dad uses them all the time :) Just be mindful of how many coats and how heavy you apply it since miniatures are a lot smaller so the details can get flooded easily.
@NicoSuratos thank you sm! Def got a sub
If you were going to panel line/add decals, would you still hit it with a gloss coat first, go through that process, and then matte top coat at the very end?
Yes, gloss coat first before panel lines/decals, then if I want a matte finish, I topcoat with matte. Most times I use a satin finish though
@@NicoSuratos Thank you! This was super helpful 👌
Excelent video!
Do we need to spray before putting on paint or can we just paint then spray
Sorry what?
Most people say to use primer for base coat then paint. I believe it’s because the paint won’t stick to the bare plastic as nicely as it will with the primer
Thanks for the tutorial! Very informative. But I still can’t figure out how to get smooth strokes when I paint. I have been using a wet pallet. Trying to get the acrylic paint to a smooth consistency on the pallet first. But no matter what I do it looks so bad lol. I have been practicing on primed spoons so I don’t ruin my kits. Any way. Thanks again. And I will be coming back to this vid till I figure out my issue lol 😅
Sometimes the paints themselves could be the issue, try experimenting with different brands to find the one that you’re most comfortable with, one that you prefer and find easy to use than others.
Thank you so much for replying to my comment 😁. What brand paints would you suggest for practice with? I’m very eager to learn this skill 😅
Water based acrylics like vallejo, citadel, army painter, greenstuff world, two thin coats
Whar acrylic brand is that
Vallejo Colors
Hi Nico! Can you recommend these paints, as well as the handbrushing technique, if i want my model kit to have a glossy finish later by applying a gloss top coat and/or compound polish ? Or should i stick with spraypaints?
For a glossy finish, using spray cans generally provides a smoother, more even result compared to hand painting. Spray cans can apply a consistent coat of paint without visible brush strokes.
If you’re hand painting and want to achieve a glossy finish, it would require more work. Spray cans simplify the process, especially for larger surfaces.
@@NicoSuratos Nice! You've answered my next question. Spray paint then for the larger parts, just to be safe, and hand painting perhaps for the smaller ones! I really appreciate your very informative, less technical tutorial videos. Thank you Nico!
Happy to help! 🫡 thanks for watching!
@nico In the absence of a Bosny primer gray, would you recommend to use a bosny dull lacquer clear coat?
good pm! may I ask if u have links for your brushes?
www.redgrasscreative.com/miniature-painting-brushes/
The other paintbrush I used is the Vincent Zuiver Kolinsky Brush from Deovir Arts
@@NicoSuratos Thanks a lott!! btw in sanding the kit, does it include the whole surface?
That’s what I recommend yes :)
@@NicoSuratos thank a lott againn, I'm a beginner and mustering up courage to paint my own custom kit, its just that I find it hard to own materials
btw got any discord or fb groups? ones I could maybe message you for help if thats okayh
Hi Nico, first of all thank you for your tutorials, always very helpful! I've just two questions (the first simple, the second a little less so).
1. I just bought the exact same wet palette. So basically, from what I understood, if I use acrylics colors (Vallejo), there is no need to use thinner, because the palette being already wet, itself acts as a thinner, correct?
2. Regarding the handpaint, you suggest to use primer first (and I agree), but in my case, I've some pieces already painted with Tamiya TS spray cans (and I don't use primer as first coat when I use Tamiya spray cans beacuse they very durable/aggressive since they're laquers basically - unlike airbrushing where the primer is mandatory). In these pieces already spray cans painted, if I want to add some small details by hand painting (circuits, pipes and stuff like that), what should I do? Masking all the piece (except the part I want to paint by hand), primer it, and then hand paint these details?
Thank you very much from Italy!
Thank you for watching my tutorials! I’m glad they’re helpful!
1. For wet palettes, only use water for it. Do not wet it with thinner or any other liquids.
2. In this case, You don’t need to apply primer, since the parts are already painted with spray cans, you can go ahead and handpaint on top, I’m pretty sure the paints will stick.
@@NicoSuratos Thank you so much Nico for the tip and immediate response!
Just new to painting gunpla. I have a question. Kailangan lang ba water plus paint and apply it to the kit after the primer?
I’m using water-based acrylics that’s why I can just use water when thinning my paints.
@@NicoSuratos hiro paints is a water-based right?
Yes, hiro paints are water-based
They have a new line of paints that are lacquer-based though, so be sure to check if what you have are their acrylic water based paints
Baka may dspaie marker tutorial ka ma'am yung paint marker , thanks.
Sa paglagay ng Primer , nililiha pa mga parts na need pinturahan diba po .
I don’t use paint markers po eh but it’s basically just like using colored pencils on coloring books except you’re using it on gunpla hehe.
I suggest sanding first before primer but you can also prime without sanding everything
That acrylic paint is like the one you use for paper? Does it adhere well to the primer? I would like to try something like this, don't want the paint to peel off later. Very nice video by the way, very useful!!
The paints are acrylics but they are hobby paints. So it’s meant to work well for Gunpla and Model kits, it’s different from the acrylic paints you use on paper.
@@NicoSuratos thanks! That's what I needed to know, again, nice video, it's the best one I've seen
Thanks for watching!
Hey Nico, nice video!
Because of this video, I wanted to invest in a size 4 Da Vinci Maestro Kolinsky Sable brush in the near future. However, while I was looking into what was available, I saw Flat Brushes which are also under Da Vinci Maestro(so they are also Kolinsky Sable). Do you think they could be useful as well? Or do you think should I stick to round brushes for basecoating Gunpla? Thanks in advance!
Always good to have both, but generally round brushes are more versatile and better suited for most painting tasks. Easier to have brushstrokes with flat brushes if not careful.
@@NicoSuratos Thanks Nico, I'll keep that in mind 😄
Hello po, tanong ko lang po kung pag nilagyan ng primer specifically spray can, maapektuhan po ba yung pagkabit ng mga parts (mahirap ikabit) at articulation? thank you po
Of course po, paint adds another layer that’s why people usually sand the pieces before painting or masking tight-fit areas like joints
i appreciate the help and id like to ask a question, i’m only planning to paint small areas with gray, should i use a thinner or just water? should i also prime it or dont because its only a small area
Thinner and water are interchangeable. If you don’t have thinner then use water and vice versa. Or if you prefer one over the other then use that.
I still recommend using primer even for small areas as it helps the paint stick better but there are also instances where you can forego the primer. Try on a test piece and see which one works better for you, with primer or without
Do you sand before applying primer?
Yes, I have a video showing how I prepare my kits before painting
how do you answer all the comments :0 well thank you for doing that!
I try!
This has been the best guide for this ive seen so far. I would love to know where you got that wet palette
Thanks for watching! The wet palette is from Redgrass Games
Hi Nico, I've been thinking using Bosny for the spray paint job on my Dynames build. Do you think its good to use them?
Sure! why not?
@@NicoSuratos I'm worrying that it would ruin the plastic due to its "industrial" use of the spray can atleast from what I'm seeing on internet. What I plan is to apply primer, color, then the clear matte finish. I guess it takes practice to perfect using these type of cans. I cant wait to start spray painting actually since its my first time.
I use Bosny primer for most of my builds, I don’t see any issue with it
Thats great to hear! I guess i'll be checking out my Shopee cart. Thanks!
Thank you for this!!!!
You're so welcome!
Hello po sana masagot. Recommended po ma thined ung paint bago gamitin or pwede na po as is? Hiro paint po gagamitin ko. Thank you in advance
Hiro paints are actually specially formulated to be for handpainting, so you can use it straight from the bottle since the consistency is already right
ano po ginagamit nyo for top coat? salamat po
Vallejo Mecha Color Varnishes
any sanding involved? this vid is very helpful just left one question for me
I do sand before I prime my pieces so yes sanding is involved.
@@NicoSuratos cool thank you do you sand and then file them? Or just sand and prime?
Just sand and prime, I rarely use a file
@@NicoSuratos awesome thx a bunch
I think I saw you guys at the toycon, I think one of your entry was the unicorn. Btw how is the quality of bosny primer? Durability and texture wise. I don't have my airbrush with me right now and I don't think hand painting a waterbased primer is ideal for a gunpla because the constant movement of parts may cause some chipping or is it just fine and I'm just over reacting? Lol
The unicorn is my dad’s work! Bosny works well as a primer, esp if you know how to use spray cans. Waterbased primer also works fine, it’s what I used for most of my gunpla builds. If you play with your gunpla or change the pose often, then just use bosny
@@NicoSuratos I don't really move my gunplas a lot since I mostly do diorama but I do a lot of dynamic poses and sometimes man handling my work while doing so lol. awesome paint job by your dad btw.
Brands of paint matter too right? Like, don't hand paint with lacquers. Tamiya also doesn't mix well with water.
you can handpaint with lacquer paints but the process can be more challenging than using other types of paint, so I don’t recommend it. But a friend of mine who’s big in the figure painting community and does it for a living handpaints with purely lacquer paints. But again it’s not as easy to use than other types of paint, which is why in the video, I mentioned that Acrylic Paints are the popular choice for handpainting.
Tamiya despite being an Acrylic paint is Alcohol-based so it’s not recommended to mix it with water. However, Tamiya does provide a specially formulated thinner that can be used to thin and dilute the paints, which is also alcohol-based.
Vallejo, AK, Citadel and all the other paints I showed in the video are Water-based acrylic paints which conveniently is the most common type of paint used today, so you can thin those with water and it’s perfectly fine.
@@NicoSuratosare these water based something we are able to check in our baggage for international flights?
Can i ask ? If pipinturahan mo sya ng same color sa plastic need mo pa bang i primer or pwedeng hindi na?
I still recommend a primer to make the paint adhere better but if you don’t want to use a primer, you can also slightly sand the surface and make it a bit rough so it’s easier to apply the paint since the surface is not that smooth.
@@NicoSuratos thank you so much po
thumbs up!
great video’s where u from?
Philippines 😊
Oooo I just saw this, the dare, it finally happened bois! though it's not the whole kit which is totally understandable, cuz GBWC?? btw so excited to see it up close. (went there on the first day of submissions, I believed yours wasn't there yet?)
From now on this will be one of my reference guide for hand painting for like forevaaa till I finally quit the hobby (I hoped not lol)
Someday I will paint a whole kit! 😆 just got home from submitting my entry actually, I’m one of the last ones to submit.
Thanks for watching and liking the video!
if you're in the Philippiones, do you accept service?
Like commissions? I do but my slots are currently full
Big help po idol , makakatipid din hahaha
Thank you for watching po!
Great video.
I just hope I find good quality tools at a reasonable price in Saudi :( I already pay thrice the value for the kits.
Thanks for watching!
Common mistake when hand painting gunpla : do not apply too much paint !
Paint layers thickness make panel lines disappear and pieces misfit when rebuilding.
So be as thin as possible and avoid mat paints if you want to do panel lining.
This is why I have other videos where I mention how to prepare gunpla for painting and avoid these mistakes, plus most water based acrylic paints self levels while drying, especially vallejo colors. Therefore, thickness of paint is almost never an issue
How to handpaint: step 1: get a primer spray 🤦♂
Lol I said using spray cans is the best option IF you have the means to do it. Also mentioned that handpainting primer is doable, I just have gripes about it considering it takes a long time and isn’t efficient.
Before priming, do u Sand the part?
Yes. Feel free to watch this video - ua-cam.com/video/vTNI92f29BQ/v-deo.htmlsi=bMBZ1CznqwjvYDGG
@@NicoSuratos also, After some time the painting, even of i touch It gently it will come off, how can i protect?
Varnish