Well... I needed to know how to get started with my new Milwaukee plunge track saw. I was confused when the blade sat on top of the splinter guard so I realized that it probably cuts it on the first pass. I got a good deal of the whole picture right in my head. But, as an engineer myself, I insist on confirming my understanding of things. This video did EXACTLY what I needed it to do without the additional fluff and nonsense. I even learned a few minor but helpful things. Thank you VERY much for being clean and to the point. I appreciate this.
I think before trimming the rubber strip off, check the blade toe in. My Makita came with a severe toe out, and wouldn’t cut well. It was burning the wood on the rear of the blade. After loosening 4 screws and getting the rear of the blade out a bit. Then trim the rubber strip.
You are a clever bloke, the tip with the tub extension is very important for anyone with a evolution saw what dose not plunge as you have to trim the guard by running it in from the end
One thing to be aware of on inexpensive track saw tracks is the ends may not be perfectly square. So when butting them tight together it may throw the alignment off from one track to the other. When joining them it's a good idea to leave a 1mm gap between the tracks and verify alignment with a straight edge before tightening the connectors.
Good advice. I also found that it's worth trying them both ways round as it were. On my Parkside saw one way round was just acceptable but when I swapped ends the fit was nearly perfect. Also, out of the box, the deburring on the cut edges left a little to be desired and 5 minutes with a needle file was time well spent.
This is not a criticism. I sold Festools here in the US during the time they insisted upon three stages of product training, all of which I completed. 1. Festool recommends that you not butt the track ends together , the tracks are guaranteed parallel but the ends are not guaranteed square,. When butted together, any out of squareness is transmitted along the track. 2. When joining the track to another, upscale tracks have 2 joining rails to prevent a pivot point ( exacerbated by the issue above) . 3. When joining two tracks with 2 joining rails I always put the saw across the joint on the track and leave a 1-2 mm space between them, tighten the topside joining rail, remove the saw and turn over the tracks and tighten the underside joining rail. A different way of addressing the accurate set up. What works for the individual can be a matter of informed choice.
Some years ago I started out with this Scheppach Saw. i found there were a lot of problems with it. - the blade had some axial play of about 0.3 mm - the blade wasnt entirely parallel to the machine, end hence the rail - the lateral position of the blade changed slightly, depending on the depth of cut - when putting the blade at an angle, it cut in the splinterguard and ruined it - during warm weather, the splinter guard just fell of - the grippy strips were not very grippy - the glide strips were too close together (doesnt seem to be the case in this video though) Being dissatiesfied with this machine, I send it back. Afterwards I bought me some green and dark blue. I found this new machine to be nothing short of amazing. I couldn't find anything wrong with it, and often it even surpasses my expectations. What a difference, and actually well worth the money.
Thanks Peter. Just got a Triton 1400 and rails and instruction said to use the scribe but did not offer your advice of swapping them. That ought to do it :)
I wish I saw this video a few years ago, before ruining my Makita splinter guard with my first cut because i went over the rail ends.... Great 2nd video! Thank you.
Well, I've take the plunge (sorry) and bought a cheap tracksaw (Ozito from Bunnings in Australia). Just need to remind myself about the splinterguard trim.
Thanks for this great video. I bought a Sceppach years ago when I redid my previous kitchen. I’m about to redo my current kitchen and have bought a second rail and replacement rubber strip for the first rail. Your tips will certainly come in handy!
Excellent video. I bought a MacAllister at the wknd. Used it today without reading the instructions (of course 😢), went straight into cutting a sheet of mdf and wasn’t even aware what the splinter guard was! I did check that the blade was at 90 degrees but nothing else and didn’t connect the extra piece of track. Wondering if I have ruined it or if it will still be ok? Obviously messed up my mdf sheet by lining it up with the uncut splinter strip. Some day I’ll learn 😢
That’s a good explanation of the first steps you need to take care of before actually using the saw. I was wondering though for the first bit of the track, could you not just put your support a bit over the edge of your bench and slowly make a full plunge through the support, lift it back up to scoring depth and continue onwards?
Thanks! I recommend using the method outlined here because I've been using plunge saws pretty much daily for ~20 years, and in my opinion it's the easiest way for a new user not to screw up their first cut. But of course you could use your method; try it and see how you get on. 👍
I managed to stuff up the first trimming cut when I got my Titan. I worked with it for a while and but ended up replacing the splinter guard and trimming it using the method shown here. Much more accurate now 👍
@@MichaelBrown-kk6ck Hi Michael,I also have a Makita track saw which came with a 1,4metre track and nervous about making the first cut and spoiling the splinter guard...did you use the extend the rail trick Peter used here with the small piece of hardwood?
If you only have one track, there is no need to cut the splinter guard all the way to the ends. You will not run the saw up to that position anyway. Just clean the ends roughly with a knife. Leave some material protruding and trim it when you have purchased your second track.
Great series, thanks for taking the time to make these videos. I've had a TS55 Festool track saw but it's motor failed and I had a job to finish very quickly so I bought the saw you have here from Aldi in store. It was reduced by a further £20 so got it for 59!! The track rebate was very rough from a slot cut on the underside so I had to smooth this but now it works just fine. I do miss the soft start but what can you expect for £59. Another small point is that the saw fits on my FS1400 Festool track BUT the two track systems are different and you can't fit one to another, the front edge doesn't align, a small point but worth knowing if you already have Festool tracks.
The Scheppach price for the saw and accessories from my local dealer in Australia is about 170 quid, not sure if ALDI here does a track saw offering. I must say that splinter guard looks like a good idea. Thanks again Peter.
Thanks Bob. Yes, the Scheppach is about that price here in the UK. Aldi have only just started offering it here at this price. More on the saw in an upcoming review. 👍👍
I've got this saw, you may remember I commented on the track(s) before Christmas. I'm interested in how easily your two 700mm joined. I've given up on trying to use them as a 1400mm since the join always has a lip which stops the saw in its tracks, no amount of dressing the join, applying a straight edge etc, helps. It's useful in 700mm mode of course but frustrating not to have the ease of the longer length at my disposal. (Now, now! No innuendo here!) I also note you said the rubber seems thin, I don't find it grippy at all and it slides off line too readily, so I'm moving on to Vid 3 in eager anticipation of your view of the track in use.
Actually I found these tracks to join well - no jump between them at all - and the grippy neoprene strips aren’t bad, but the splinter-guard is thin and doesn’t make proper contact with the material. I’ll get into it in a bit more detail when I do the review, but the saw worked fine all the time I used it for this video series. 👍👍
Just bought one today. Found the problem was the paint and casting on the saw's mating surface with the tracks. cleaned it up with an oil stone and it now glides perfectly.
Ha! You got one! 😆Well done Goran 👍 And thanks - that one's actually a mid-90's 7002-700J, I think it's the only JDM-only watch I have, still works great. 👍👍
I am looking to get a track/plunge saw I need to replace the upstairs disintegrating chiboard flooring with some 18mm plywood. I want not the cheapest but just something for DIY. I thought the Scheppach from Screwfix for £200 seemed like a good bet but now I'm wondering if it's really worth that much and Aldi don't do it anymore
Almost anything will do the job tbh, though the Aldi/Scheppach have specific issues that are enough for me to not recommend them. There are loads of videos in the tracksaw workshop playlist covering entry-level saws, and there’s really not much to choose between them, aside from blade size. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thanks, I ended up going for the Erbauer in the end as it is reduced to £153 in B&Q and it seems to have good features. I saw your video they don't seem to do the Triton anymore. Have read mixed reviews on longevity but it will only be used a few times a year for DIY and most of the stuff I need it for sorting out my new house, building in some cupboards etc should be done by within the warranty period. Looking forward to watching more of your videos on how to use it 👍🏻
Wish I'd thought of that tip for the first cut in my Makita rails. I have now got wobbly rubber strips at each end! Made worse by there being a small indent in the base of the Makita "shoe" that bumps up the rail when your hanging off the back of it!
@@10MinuteWorkshop tempting. The removal of my DeWalt one was such a nightmare of sticky residue and failed re-sticking! I might consider changing the strip to a Festool one as it's made of tougher stuff.
@@10MinuteWorkshop the chap took it out of the box and onto te table and it rode see saw. He could not enen review it. Bad for Bosch. Not that they worry
Dagnammit Peter, you’re doing it again, fuelling my lust for sawdust! 😜 Incidentally, wondering whether you’ll cover blade thickness choices and potentially re-sawing that lip too in one of these. Quite a few myths around and never any good instructions in the manuals. Thanks as always!
Yes, I cover it a little in the blade changes (P3) and in the alternative blade tests (P7). But most blades for mains powered saws are around 2.2mm kerf, though the stock blade is 2.4mm on this saw. Whether 1/10mm either side makes that much difference I don’t know - not to my cuts, I don’t think, lol! 😂😂👍👍
Peter Millard [playing catch-up- apologies, I hadn’t noticed you were churning out this series as you have, UA-cam notification funk]. Thanks for the reply! Yes I only bring it up because a blade I trimmed the lip with was 2.4 which is fairly chunky and then considered switching to an anaemic 2.0 which made me think I should have considered the long-term blade choice before the prime cut. Saw blade hole dimensions is another topic... please bore us with the details :) (it’s bad pun day at mine, please forgive me. My jokes are getting long in the tooth... ok I’ll go get my coat)🤪
I am surprised that there is only one connector rod between the rails. I have a Kreg rail and they provide to rods. With only one, I would worry about the ongoing proper alignment. Good idea adding the bit ahead of the rail to begin the trimming cut.
At this kind of price bracket, I’m impressed that you get one at all, lol! Nothing to stop you buying another of course, if you expect to keep the rails joined 👍👍
That’s true of the connector kit for the Makita guide rail too. In practice it doesn’t actually create any real issues if the rails are supported across their length by the workpiece. There can be some movement in the middle, but if you’ve joined two 1400mm rails together you’ll mark-up the cut in the middle and ends so you will be straight. But my best advice is if your kit comes with two 700mm rails your next investment in the set-up should be a 1400mm rail and look to compatible rails if necessary.
Peter thanks for doing this series of videos which will constitute a bit of a masterclass in track saw useage. One of the silly things that caught me out in the early days was waste side cuts awareness. 😳 I wonder if there any aftermarket gizmos for mounting a rail on a hinge marlarkey without the Festool MFT?
This was a really good video. I am curious as to why you would need to make this initial cut in the first place. Why don't they just cut the rubber to fit the saw when it is sent from the factory? With all of the precision and technology that goes into these saws you would think this would be unnecessary.
@@10MinuteWorkshop oh thank makes sense. i guess these saw blades can come in different widths then? I watched your entire series. based on your videos I purchased the bosch because of the mafell rails. wow, this is a real game changer for me. I just wish I could get an MFT style table with a rail on a hinge for it. thanks!
Hi Peter. Your content is great. Of particular interest are your track saw series and the benchtop replacement. What caught my eye is the hinged rail you have for the track saw. Anyleads as to where can I source one or, is it one of your jig arrangements? Many thanks. Jose (Australia)
Hi Jose, and thank you! The hinged rail comes as standard on the MFT, though you can buy the components as spare parts:- Festool MFT hinged rail/ rail support reference numbers are :- 497022 Support - this is the locating pin unit at the front of the MFT 497023 Support unit - this is the hinge part at the back of the MFT for the rail 472862 Profile - this is the MFT/3 aluminium profile Because of the way the Festool catalogue works I can’t link directly to them, but bf you do a google search for those reference numbers, the spare parts links should pop up at the top of the list. 👍 I’ll be making my own version of the MFT before too long, so keep your eyes out for that one. 👍👍
Its out of the box thinking to use strip of wood to cut splinter guard from edge. I think its not a good idea to cut splinter guard from edge because it helps you to know from which point you can cut the material and you place your track accordingly
@@10MinuteWorkshop I must admit I have learned 90% of wood working skill by watching your video. with due respect I differ with you on this. Would love to learn from you if you have any tip on how to cut 4'wide material square.
I’ve lost count of the number of cuts I’ve made where the cut starts right at the beginning of the rail, but if you don’t do that, then fine. A 4” square cut it’s tricky, but I’d use a crosscut jig and plenty of tape. 👍👍
Hi Peter, Great vids as always, just watching this series again before buying my first track(plunge)saw, probably going to get the Titan one. What would be wrong with doing the initial splinter guard cut with a deep setting on the saw ? Surely that would enable you to have the saw positioned further onto the rail and avoid the saw failing to track properly for the first few inches. Or am I missing something ??
As I explain a little later in the series, you get the cleanest cut by keeping the depth to ~2-3mm below the material, so the teeth are slicing through, rather than exiting the material then coming back in. Makes more sense when I show it in the vid! And I’m afraid the Titan is discontinued now. 🤷♂️👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thanks Peter, Thanks for your thoughts. The Titan seems to be available at B&Q and Screwfix under the Macalister 'brand'. Had a look at one today and wasn't exactly bowled over with it. Seemed very heavy and a little clunky but for £100 I suppose not exactly surprising. Will watch the rest of the series with my meal. Keep Safe.
Good saw. This series is really aimed at entry-level saws/users, but you’ll need to snug the saw to the rails, yes, and trim the splinter guard back before using it. 👍
Hi Peter. I know you are doing a review of this Work Zone saw in the near future. I saw a couple in my local Aldi yesterday that had been reduced further. I don't want to miss out if it is good but don't want to waste £60 if it isn't. What would you recommend, without spoiling your review video? Thanks.
Depends what your plans are. The saw’s decent enough for the price - it’s the only entry-level saw with a riving knife - but the rails are poor and will need work to get it cutting properly. At £60 you could buy the saw, put the rails aside and pick up e.g. a Festool rail and it’s still be cheaper than e.g. the Titan. But the Aldi rails won’t play nicely with the Festool, so you won’t get a long rail that way. But for £20 you can make one... 🤷♂️
Have to be honest I haven’t used the Makita enough to say. Easy enough to check - just do a ‘dry’ cut; power off, see if the blade hits the splinter guard when it’s tipped over. 👍
For the long single rails is there any real reason to trim the splinter guard all the way to the end? I would never use the saw past the point where the saw is not supported completely on the rail
Hi peter really enjoying your videos very useful. I have just ordered the festool rail saw and 2 rails. I havnt ordered a rail joiner but just curious when it comes to cutting the rubber on your first cut could you start where the saw sits on the rail and back cut the rubber to the end?
You could, but the saw will still overhang the rail; if you’re getting two rails the do what I did here; join them together but start the cut towards he centre of the rearmost rail. 👍👍
Peter Millard ok thanks, ill get the joiner too and get it done properly as you have explained. Thanks for the information on the jigs for it also they will come in extremely useful for what im doing. 😉
@@10MinuteWorkshop you know that is what I thought and have been doing then someone suggested I look at Festool 55 TS getting started. I googled it. This video shows the person making the cut with what appears to be the blade fully extended. Now I am confused!!
I have been using my track saw for a few fays now and i did the best I can on trimming back the splinter guard, but what i find is that the splinter guard is trimmed back almost against the metal of the track... It is hardly 1 mm... The saw doesn’t touch the metal, it is still running smooth but i’m wondering if this is normal.. I am using the Makita SP6000... What is the normal amount of splinter guard that is left when you have trimmed it down? I understand that this can be a little different between the different saws but is it ok that mine is so short? Gr, Robin
Have you snugged the saw down onto the rails with the little cams? If you’re using the manufacturer’s saw and rails, and you’ve dialled the saw into the rail then the amount of splinterguard visible will be determined by the manufacturer. It varies by manufacturer, but 1-2mm is pretty normal; you want it to be a narrow as possible really, for it to do it’s job. HTH. P
@@10MinuteWorkshop Yes, I use the orginal rail from Makita with the Makita saw and snugged it down, i experienced some trouble at the beginning and the end of the rail but for now i just keep that in mind and i made a mark 10 cm from the beginning and 10 cm from the end so I don’t use that part of the rail, and i also keep that in mind when i lay the rail down against the marks, but i am not really happy with that. I already bought a new replacement splinter guard so when i need to saw larger stuff i can replace it and i think that i will do it again with an extra rail like you showed in the video, that will give the best result. Gr Robin from The Netherlands
Is it a simple case that if first cut is wrong the saw will not make straight cuts? I have an erbauer track saw and hadnt seen this. Ive probably messed up yet not sure either way ?
No, the saw should always cut straight, provided it's snugged up to the rail correctly, and that the tracks are straight. As mentioned in the video, the splinter guard serves two purposes - as a sacrificial strip that preserves the face of the workpiece, and as a reference to show you where your cut line will be. If you hang the saw off the back of the rail to make the initial trimming cut on the splinter guard, then there's every chance - especially s a new user - that the saw will move a little, and the cut won't be true, and your splinterguard won't accurately reflect the cutline at one/either end of the rail. HTH P
Hi Peter, Just wondered if those Rails are compatible with the Festool Track Saws. My thinking is although I could get a 800mm festool rail for about £60 but at £79 for the Aldi track saw I could get 2x700 mm
Good morning Peter I have purchased the Mac plunge saw just one question when i set up for the first cut to remove the black splinter edge it appears the blade is on the outer side so i would not actually trim any off or so it appears any help would be greatly appreciated , kind regards Clive.
Hi Clive. With the saw settle on the rib of the guiderail, when you plunge the blade it should miss the edge of the rail by a couple of mm, so landing pretty squarely in the centre of the splinter guard. If it’s missing the splinter guard completely then there’s something very wrong. Looking at the guide rail from above, there’s usually about 6-8mm of black splinter guard showing - if the blade isn’t hitting that then it’s either not in the rail properly, or there’s something awry with the saw.
Many thanks for getting back so promptly there is between 3/4 mm of black splinter gaurd from the edge of the mac rail and the saw is sitting very nicely in the track hope this is helpful. Thanks for replying Regards clive
Couple of possibilities. Have you snugged the saw onto the rail with the cams? Need to do that before trimming the splinter guard back. Also have you released the anti-kickback to settle the saw onto the rail? If it’s yes, and yes to those, and it’s absolutely a MacAllister rail that came in the box, then it’s possible that the splinter guard hasn’t been fitted correctly when manufactured. They’re easy enough to peel off, move out and re-stick, but up to you wether you want to do that with a brand new saw. I’m in the middle of something else right now, but I’m pretty sure I have an untrimmed MacA rail - I’ll check when I’m back in the workshop. 👍
Thank you so much Peter it's defo a real mac pair of rails & saw I will re check what you have said sorry to keep asking you but you seem to be best you tuber available for all things track /rail saws kind regards Clive.
Had a quick look. My untrimmed rail has exactly 4mm of splinterguard showing, and the blade clips the outermost couple of mm, so I’m genuinely baffled by what’s happening with your saw. I’d show you mine but I can’t post photos here - are you on Instagram?
Plastic band? You mean the splinterguard? No, when the saw bevels it keeps it's position against the splinterguard - be pretty pointless otherwise, eh?? 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshopyes the splinterguard, I just checked my hk85 (normal circular saw) with a festool fs rail, it really destroys it with bevel cuts, especially high degrees. Conclusion use a tracksaw if you wanna save splinterguards :)
I think Wen is the base mfg for all. It's certainly the cheapest. I bought one for $135 for my small tablesaw-less workshop. I've been enjoying your videos with the mft & track saw. I'm looking forward to the rest of this series.
Some good sound user friendly advice there, mate👍 Appreciate you sharing that with us. Just out of curiosity, how much did that Aldi unit set you back?
Just bought an entry level track saw, cut the splinter, guard all good. Set the saw to a 45 bevel which re cut the splinter guard at 45 degree angle. Is this normal?
@@10MinuteWorkshop It's an Ozito, which is a Australia & New Zealand brand. Looks very similar to a Parkside. Doesn't bother me to much used mainly for construction and is ok. Usual old story only get what you pay for.
The rubber splinter Guard kept falling off of my Scheppach tracks... I ended up having to glue it on with silicone 😒 Edit... just finished watching... 🙄 A tip if you get it wrong or wear out the splinter guard is to take it off & move it out a bit & re-cut it ! Gluing it in place as I mentioned above means it ain't goin nowhere... 👍😎☘
Hi Peter. I'm a novice at this but it seems odd that you have to cut the splinterguard yourself. Couldn't this be done at the factory and reduce the risk of the customer getting it wrong? Are there any manufacturers that supply a track saw with splinterguard pre cut? Thanks.
Not that I’m aware of. It’s part of the process of setting up the saw - it takes out any slight variations and allows for alternative blades. I suppose a manufacturer could do this, but the tracks would need to be matched to the rails which I guess would add to the cost. 🤔👍
![TW P3; Square cuts & blade change [video #279]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/stgArlWSBL0/mqdefault.jpg)
![TW P3; Square cuts & blade change [video #279]](/img/tr.png)
![TW P1; What's a tracksaw & why use one? [video #277]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8JQjGwZT3Ak/mqdefault.jpg)
![Lidl Parkside or Screwfix MacAllister? [video 454]](/img/n.gif)
Well... I needed to know how to get started with my new Milwaukee plunge track saw. I was confused when the blade sat on top of the splinter guard so I realized that it probably cuts it on the first pass. I got a good deal of the whole picture right in my head. But, as an engineer myself, I insist on confirming my understanding of things.
This video did EXACTLY what I needed it to do without the additional fluff and nonsense. I even learned a few minor but helpful things. Thank you VERY much for being clean and to the point. I appreciate this.
Thank you! 👍
Just discovered your brilliant site in fact have watched some more than once to take everything in,brilliant.
Thank you! 🙌
I think before trimming the rubber strip off, check the blade toe in. My Makita came with a severe toe out, and wouldn’t cut well. It was burning the wood on the rear of the blade. After loosening 4 screws and getting the rear of the blade out a bit. Then trim the rubber strip.
You are a clever bloke, the tip with the tub extension is very important for anyone with a evolution saw what dose not plunge as you have to trim the guard by running it in from the end
One thing to be aware of on inexpensive track saw tracks is the ends may not be perfectly square. So when butting them tight together it may throw the alignment off from one track to the other. When joining them it's a good idea to leave a 1mm gap between the tracks and verify alignment with a straight edge before tightening the connectors.
Good advice. I also found that it's worth trying them both ways round as it were. On my Parkside saw one way round was just acceptable but when I swapped ends the fit was nearly perfect. Also, out of the box, the deburring on the cut edges left a little to be desired and 5 minutes with a needle file was time well spent.
This is not a criticism. I sold Festools here in the US during the time they insisted upon three stages of product training, all of which I completed.
1. Festool recommends that you not butt the track ends together , the tracks are guaranteed parallel but the ends are not guaranteed square,. When butted together, any out of squareness is transmitted along the track.
2. When joining the track to another, upscale tracks have 2 joining rails to prevent a pivot point ( exacerbated by the issue above) .
3. When joining two tracks with 2 joining rails I always put the saw across the joint on the track and leave a 1-2 mm space between them, tighten the topside joining rail, remove the saw and turn over the tracks and tighten the underside joining rail.
A different way of addressing the accurate set up. What works for the individual can be a matter of informed choice.
Joseph McBride I agree I’ve also taken classes with Sedge this is what he teaches
Thanks for this video. You manage to include so many useful details in your presentations.
Some years ago I started out with this Scheppach Saw. i found there were a lot of problems with it.
- the blade had some axial play of about 0.3 mm
- the blade wasnt entirely parallel to the machine, end hence the rail
- the lateral position of the blade changed slightly, depending on the depth of cut
- when putting the blade at an angle, it cut in the splinterguard and ruined it
- during warm weather, the splinter guard just fell of
- the grippy strips were not very grippy
- the glide strips were too close together (doesnt seem to be the case in this video though)
Being dissatiesfied with this machine, I send it back.
Afterwards I bought me some green and dark blue. I found this new machine to be nothing short of amazing. I couldn't find anything wrong with it, and often it even surpasses my expectations. What a difference, and actually well worth the money.
Another great video. Have just bought a Festool track saw with 1400 track so timely information
Thanks, Peter, for the rail rib extension idea. Worked great on my 1400 mm rails.
That’s a great tip with the extra piece of timber 👍🏻
Thanks Peter. Just got a Triton 1400 and rails and instruction said to use the scribe but did not offer your advice of swapping them. That ought to do it :)
I wish I saw this video a few years ago, before ruining my Makita splinter guard with my first cut because i went over the rail ends....
Great 2nd video!
Thank you.
Yeah, always tricky, the splinterguard cut - and it’s usually the first one you make! 👍👍
Can u re-position it & re-cut it ? (Peter coverz this later) 😎👍☘️
Well, I've take the plunge (sorry) and bought a cheap tracksaw (Ozito from Bunnings in Australia). Just need to remind myself about the splinterguard trim.
Thanks for this great video. I bought a Sceppach years ago when I redid my previous kitchen. I’m about to redo my current kitchen and have bought a second rail and replacement rubber strip for the first rail. Your tips will certainly come in handy!
Thanks! 👍👍
Great Video, I wish I'd found this before stuffing up my first splinter guard cut yesterday!
Just setup my new TS55 using your rail extension cheat, worked a charm! Perfectly straight splinter guard! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Excellent - good to know but still works! 😂👍👍
Wonderful timing - my Mafell MT55 has just arrived today and these tips couldn't have come at a better time. Thanks so much!
Scott Nicholson You’ve bought a Mafell, and need an introduction to track saws? Not short of a penny, are you? ;)
@@MKRM27 Well, I am now... :)
Loving this , well done some of the ideas you come up with are so clever cheers Peter
Watched video 1 earlier today now going to binge watch the rest 👍
Excellent! 👍👍
Very helpful tip, thanks!
Excellent video. I bought a MacAllister at the wknd. Used it today without reading the instructions (of course 😢), went straight into cutting a sheet of mdf and wasn’t even aware what the splinter guard was! I did check that the blade was at 90 degrees but nothing else and didn’t connect the extra piece of track. Wondering if I have ruined it or if it will still be ok? Obviously messed up my mdf sheet by lining it up with the uncut splinter strip. Some day I’ll learn 😢
Should be fine, but you might want to edge that splinterguard out and re trim it. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop thanks Peter, appreciate the reply. Will give that a go. Very helpful series, thank you 🙏
That’s a good explanation of the first steps you need to take care of before actually using the saw. I was wondering though for the first bit of the track, could you not just put your support a bit over the edge of your bench and slowly make a full plunge through the support, lift it back up to scoring depth and continue onwards?
Thanks! I recommend using the method outlined here because I've been using plunge saws pretty much daily for ~20 years, and in my opinion it's the easiest way for a new user not to screw up their first cut. But of course you could use your method; try it and see how you get on. 👍
I managed to stuff up the first trimming cut when I got my Titan. I worked with it for a while and but ended up replacing the splinter guard and trimming it using the method shown here. Much more accurate now 👍
Same here with my Makita track saw.
@@MichaelBrown-kk6ck Hi Michael,I also have a Makita track saw which came with a 1,4metre track and nervous about making the first cut and spoiling the splinter guard...did you use the extend the rail trick Peter used here with the small piece of hardwood?
Perfect timing on your tracksaw workshops having just grabbed the Aldi one earlier this week :)
Nice! Keep your eyes peeled for the review of the Aldi, should be out before too long. 👍👍
If you only have one track, there is no need to cut the splinter guard all the way to the ends. You will not run the saw up to that position anyway.
Just clean the ends roughly with a knife. Leave some material protruding and trim it when you have purchased your second track.
Great series, thanks for taking the time to make these videos. I've had a TS55 Festool track saw but it's motor failed and I had a job to finish very quickly so I bought the saw you have here from Aldi in store. It was reduced by a further £20 so got it for 59!! The track rebate was very rough from a slot cut on the underside so I had to smooth this but now it works just fine. I do miss the soft start but what can you expect for £59. Another small point is that the saw fits on my FS1400 Festool track BUT the two track systems are different and you can't fit one to another, the front edge doesn't align, a small point but worth knowing if you already have Festool tracks.
Yes, it’s a point I’ll be making at length in my review of the saw. The saw’s pretty good - amazing for the price - but the tracks let it down. 👍👍
The Scheppach price for the saw and accessories from my local dealer in Australia is about 170 quid, not sure if ALDI here does a track saw offering. I must say that splinter guard looks like a good idea. Thanks again Peter.
Thanks Bob. Yes, the Scheppach is about that price here in the UK. Aldi have only just started offering it here at this price. More on the saw in an upcoming review. 👍👍
I've got this saw, you may remember I commented on the track(s) before Christmas. I'm interested in how easily your two 700mm joined. I've given up on trying to use them as a 1400mm since the join always has a lip which stops the saw in its tracks, no amount of dressing the join, applying a straight edge etc, helps. It's useful in 700mm mode of course but frustrating not to have the ease of the longer length at my disposal. (Now, now! No innuendo here!) I also note you said the rubber seems thin, I don't find it grippy at all and it slides off line too readily, so I'm moving on to Vid 3 in eager anticipation of your view of the track in use.
Actually I found these tracks to join well - no jump between them at all - and the grippy neoprene strips aren’t bad, but the splinter-guard is thin and doesn’t make proper contact with the material. I’ll get into it in a bit more detail when I do the review, but the saw worked fine all the time I used it for this video series. 👍👍
A slight chamfer on each perhaps ?
I have a Scheppach & the tracks go together perfectly...
can u return 'em ? 😎👍☘️
I have joining issues also. Very frustrating. 😞😞
A few reviewers on the Aldi website had this problem and took their saws back for new ones, which had working tracks.
Just bought one today. Found the problem was the paint and casting on the saw's mating surface with the tracks. cleaned it up with an oil stone and it now glides perfectly.
I always feel a mild depression when you say "I think we'll leave it there for today". Loving these videos.
I may have just ordered a Titan Track Saw on eBay... Cool to see you rocking the SKX bond style ;-) Cheers.
Ha! You got one! 😆Well done Goran 👍 And thanks - that one's actually a mid-90's 7002-700J, I think it's the only JDM-only watch I have, still works great. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Yes. This whole series is superb.
I am looking to get a track/plunge saw I need to replace the upstairs disintegrating chiboard flooring with some 18mm plywood. I want not the cheapest but just something for DIY. I thought the Scheppach from Screwfix for £200 seemed like a good bet but now I'm wondering if it's really worth that much and Aldi don't do it anymore
Almost anything will do the job tbh, though the Aldi/Scheppach have specific issues that are enough for me to not recommend them. There are loads of videos in the tracksaw workshop playlist covering entry-level saws, and there’s really not much to choose between them, aside from blade size. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thanks, I ended up going for the Erbauer in the end as it is reduced to £153 in B&Q and it seems to have good features. I saw your video they don't seem to do the Triton anymore. Have read mixed reviews on longevity but it will only be used a few times a year for DIY and most of the stuff I need it for sorting out my new house, building in some cupboards etc should be done by within the warranty period. Looking forward to watching more of your videos on how to use it 👍🏻
Wish I'd thought of that tip for the first cut in my Makita rails. I have now got wobbly rubber strips at each end! Made worse by there being a small indent in the base of the Makita "shoe" that bumps up the rail when your hanging off the back of it!
Peel it off, move it over a few mm and re-cut it. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop tempting. The removal of my DeWalt one was such a nightmare of sticky residue and failed re-sticking! I might consider changing the strip to a Festool one as it's made of tougher stuff.
Something you might also test is flatness of the saw base. I saw a bosch demo where it had quite a buckle!
That’s bad. Hopefully it was obvious as soon as you put it on the rail?? 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop the chap took it out of the box and onto te table and it rode see saw. He could not enen review it. Bad for Bosch. Not that they worry
Wow, very poor. Stuff like that should be be leaving the factory.
I'd rather stick to My TF TS55!
Dagnammit Peter, you’re doing it again, fuelling my lust for sawdust! 😜 Incidentally, wondering whether you’ll cover blade thickness choices and potentially re-sawing that lip too in one of these. Quite a few myths around and never any good instructions in the manuals. Thanks as always!
Yes, I cover it a little in the blade changes (P3) and in the alternative blade tests (P7). But most blades for mains powered saws are around 2.2mm kerf, though the stock blade is 2.4mm on this saw. Whether 1/10mm either side makes that much difference I don’t know - not to my cuts, I don’t think, lol! 😂😂👍👍
Peter Millard [playing catch-up- apologies, I hadn’t noticed you were churning out this series as you have, UA-cam notification funk]. Thanks for the reply! Yes I only bring it up because a blade I trimmed the lip with was 2.4 which is fairly chunky and then considered switching to an anaemic 2.0 which made me think I should have considered the long-term blade choice before the prime cut. Saw blade hole dimensions is another topic... please bore us with the details :) (it’s bad pun day at mine, please forgive me. My jokes are getting long in the tooth... ok I’ll go get my coat)🤪
Very interesting and will be of great use.
I am surprised that there is only one connector rod between the rails. I have a Kreg rail and they provide to rods. With only one, I would worry about the ongoing proper alignment. Good idea adding the bit ahead of the rail to begin the trimming cut.
At this kind of price bracket, I’m impressed that you get one at all, lol! Nothing to stop you buying another of course, if you expect to keep the rails joined 👍👍
That’s true of the connector kit for the Makita guide rail too. In practice it doesn’t actually create any real issues if the rails are supported across their length by the workpiece. There can be some movement in the middle, but if you’ve joined two 1400mm rails together you’ll mark-up the cut in the middle and ends so you will be straight. But my best advice is if your kit comes with two 700mm rails your next investment in the set-up should be a 1400mm rail and look to compatible rails if necessary.
@@StrawbyteWorkshop It appears that the cholce for a longer rail will be about the same price as the Aldi saw and rail.
Nice video. Glad I got my Festool 55.
Me too! 👍👍
Peter thanks for doing this series of videos which will constitute a bit of a masterclass in track saw useage. One of the silly things that caught me out in the early days was waste side cuts awareness. 😳 I wonder if there any aftermarket gizmos for mounting a rail on a hinge marlarkey without the Festool MFT?
Thanks Norman! I’m sure there must be ... 🤔😆👍👍
This was a really good video. I am curious as to why you would need to make this initial cut in the first place. Why don't they just cut the rubber to fit the saw when it is sent from the factory? With all of the precision and technology that goes into these saws you would think this would be unnecessary.
Thanks. It’s all about tuning the rail to your saw & blade. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop oh thank makes sense. i guess these saw blades can come in different widths then? I watched your entire series. based on your videos I purchased the bosch because of the mafell rails. wow, this is a real game changer for me. I just wish I could get an MFT style table with a rail on a hinge for it.
thanks!
Thank you.
Hi Peter. Your content is great. Of particular interest are your track saw series and the benchtop replacement. What caught my eye is the hinged rail you have for the track saw. Anyleads as to where can I source one or, is it one of your jig arrangements? Many thanks. Jose (Australia)
Hi Jose, and thank you! The hinged rail comes as standard on the MFT, though you can buy the components as spare parts:-
Festool MFT hinged rail/ rail support reference numbers are :-
497022 Support - this is the locating pin unit at the front of the MFT
497023 Support unit - this is the hinge part at the back of the MFT for the rail
472862 Profile - this is the MFT/3 aluminium profile
Because of the way the Festool catalogue works I can’t link directly to them, but bf you do a google search for those reference numbers, the spare parts links should pop up at the top of the list. 👍 I’ll be making my own version of the MFT before too long, so keep your eyes out for that one. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Cheers Peter!
My Festool TSC 55 comes Monday. The tip about the splinter guard is going to be super handy.
👍
Its out of the box thinking to use strip of wood to cut splinter guard from edge. I think its not a good idea to cut splinter guard from edge because it helps you to know from which point you can cut the material and you place your track accordingly
The initial splinter-guard trim is essential to know where the cut line is - every tracksaw needs this to be done.👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop To cut splinter guard is essential but to cut from starting point?????
Yes!
@@10MinuteWorkshop I must admit I have learned 90% of wood working skill by watching your video. with due respect I differ with you on this. Would love to learn from you if you have any tip on how to cut 4'wide material square.
I’ve lost count of the number of cuts I’ve made where the cut starts right at the beginning of the rail, but if you don’t do that, then fine. A 4” square cut it’s tricky, but I’d use a crosscut jig and plenty of tape. 👍👍
Hi Peter, Great vids as always, just watching this series again before buying my first track(plunge)saw, probably going to get the Titan one. What would be wrong with doing the initial splinter guard cut with a deep setting on the saw ? Surely that would enable you to have the saw positioned further onto the rail and avoid the saw failing to track properly for the first few inches. Or am I missing something ??
As I explain a little later in the series, you get the cleanest cut by keeping the depth to ~2-3mm below the material, so the teeth are slicing through, rather than exiting the material then coming back in. Makes more sense when I show it in the vid! And I’m afraid the Titan is discontinued now. 🤷♂️👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thanks Peter, Thanks for your thoughts. The Titan seems to be available at B&Q and Screwfix under the Macalister 'brand'. Had a look at one today and wasn't exactly bowled over with it. Seemed very heavy and a little clunky but for £100 I suppose not exactly surprising. Will watch the rest of the series with my meal. Keep Safe.
I've just bought a makita plunge saw and rails do I need to do this I haven't had a proper look at the rails yet 🙄
Good saw. This series is really aimed at entry-level saws/users, but you’ll need to snug the saw to the rails, yes, and trim the splinter guard back before using it. 👍
Hi Peter. I know you are doing a review of this Work Zone saw in the near future. I saw a couple in my local Aldi yesterday that had been reduced further. I don't want to miss out if it is good but don't want to waste £60 if it isn't. What would you recommend, without spoiling your review video? Thanks.
Depends what your plans are. The saw’s decent enough for the price - it’s the only entry-level saw with a riving knife - but the rails are poor and will need work to get it cutting properly. At £60 you could buy the saw, put the rails aside and pick up e.g. a Festool rail and it’s still be cheaper than e.g. the Titan. But the Aldi rails won’t play nicely with the Festool, so you won’t get a long rail that way. But for £20 you can make one... 🤷♂️
Thanks very much. Just what I needed to know.
Can you use the saw with any tracks and vice versa. For example. the Aldi saw with a festool track?
No. There’s a degree of cross-compatibility with the Festool rails - most saws will run on Festool rails - but not vice- versa.
Hi Peter. If i bevel the saw, will it mess up with the splinterguard cut line for straight cuts? I’m talking about makita
Have to be honest I haven’t used the Makita enough to say. Easy enough to check - just do a ‘dry’ cut; power off, see if the blade hits the splinter guard when it’s tipped over. 👍
Hi i just bought a Makita saw and asked them about this exact question, they said it wouldnt!
For the long single rails is there any real reason to trim the splinter guard all the way to the end?
I would never use the saw past the point where the saw is not supported completely on the rail
Tidiness? Consistency? If you think you can get away without, then go for it, but I'd always trim them all the way. 👍
Hi peter really enjoying your videos very useful. I have just ordered the festool rail saw and 2 rails. I havnt ordered a rail joiner but just curious when it comes to cutting the rubber on your first cut could you start where the saw sits on the rail and back cut the rubber to the end?
You could, but the saw will still overhang the rail; if you’re getting two rails the do what I did here; join them together but start the cut towards he centre of the rearmost rail. 👍👍
Peter Millard ok thanks, ill get the joiner too and get it done properly as you have explained. Thanks for the information on the jigs for it also they will come in extremely useful for what im doing. 😉
So the blade should be set for kerf cut when trimming new splinter guard?
As shallow a pass as you can make and still cut through. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop thank you
@@10MinuteWorkshop you know that is what I thought and have been doing then someone suggested I look at Festool 55 TS getting started. I googled it. This video shows the person making the cut with what appears to be the blade fully extended. Now I am confused!!
Is foam good enough for a spoiler board or is wood necessary?
Foam is absolutely fine - anything that gives support to the workpiece. I have a lot of scraps & offcuts, which is why I use them up this way. 👍👍
I have been using my track saw for a few fays now and i did the best I can on trimming back the splinter guard, but what i find is that the splinter guard is trimmed back almost against the metal of the track...
It is hardly 1 mm...
The saw doesn’t touch the metal, it is still running smooth but i’m wondering if this is normal.. I am using the Makita SP6000...
What is the normal amount of splinter guard that is left when you have trimmed it down?
I understand that this can be a little different between the different saws but is it ok that mine is so short?
Gr,
Robin
Have you snugged the saw down onto the rails with the little cams? If you’re using the manufacturer’s saw and rails, and you’ve dialled the saw into the rail then the amount of splinterguard visible will be determined by the manufacturer. It varies by manufacturer, but 1-2mm is pretty normal; you want it to be a narrow as possible really, for it to do it’s job. HTH. P
@@10MinuteWorkshop
Yes, I use the orginal rail from Makita with the Makita saw and snugged it down, i experienced some trouble at the beginning and the end of the rail but for now i just keep that in mind and i made a mark 10 cm from the beginning and 10 cm from the end so I don’t use that part of the rail, and i also keep that in mind when i lay the rail down against the marks, but i am not really happy with that.
I already bought a new replacement splinter guard so when i need to saw larger stuff i can replace it and i think that i will do it again with an extra rail like you showed in the video, that will give the best result.
Gr Robin from The Netherlands
Is it a simple case that if first cut is wrong the saw will not make straight cuts? I have an erbauer track saw and hadnt seen this. Ive probably messed up yet not sure either way ?
No, the saw should always cut straight, provided it's snugged up to the rail correctly, and that the tracks are straight. As mentioned in the video, the splinter guard serves two purposes - as a sacrificial strip that preserves the face of the workpiece, and as a reference to show you where your cut line will be. If you hang the saw off the back of the rail to make the initial trimming cut on the splinter guard, then there's every chance - especially s a new user - that the saw will move a little, and the cut won't be true, and your splinterguard won't accurately reflect the cutline at one/either end of the rail. HTH P
We like "Price Haircuts " LOL
That goes by Wen i think here Peter ,you can buy them online ,two fingers huh ,maybe its a handle ....
🤔😂👍👍
Hi Peter, Just wondered if those Rails are compatible with the Festool Track Saws. My thinking is although I could get a 800mm festool rail for about £60 but at £79 for the Aldi track saw I could get 2x700 mm
No, afraid not. There’ll be more on this when I do the review of the Aldi saw, but the rails are a weak point imho. 😕
Thats a shame, thanks for the quick reply.
Im sure the Triton tracks work with the ts55 get 2x700mm for about £45/50 quid
Ernie Partington
Can the saw rails be used on a mft table.
THANK YOU.GREAT VIDEOS.
The Aldi/Scheppach one’s? Not as a hinged rail, but they work OK against stops/dogs. 👍
Good morning Peter I have purchased the Mac plunge saw just one question when i set up for the first cut to remove the black splinter edge it appears the blade is on the outer side so i would not actually trim any off or so it appears any help would be greatly appreciated ,
kind regards Clive.
Hi Clive. With the saw settle on the rib of the guiderail, when you plunge the blade it should miss the edge of the rail by a couple of mm, so landing pretty squarely in the centre of the splinter guard. If it’s missing the splinter guard completely then there’s something very wrong. Looking at the guide rail from above, there’s usually about 6-8mm of black splinter guard showing - if the blade isn’t hitting that then it’s either not in the rail properly, or there’s something awry with the saw.
Many thanks for getting back so promptly there is between 3/4 mm of black splinter gaurd from the edge of the mac rail and the saw is sitting very nicely in the track hope this is helpful. Thanks for replying
Regards clive
Couple of possibilities. Have you snugged the saw onto the rail with the cams? Need to do that before trimming the splinter guard back. Also have you released the anti-kickback to settle the saw onto the rail? If it’s yes, and yes to those, and it’s absolutely a MacAllister rail that came in the box, then it’s possible that the splinter guard hasn’t been fitted correctly when manufactured. They’re easy enough to peel off, move out and re-stick, but up to you wether you want to do that with a brand new saw. I’m in the middle of something else right now, but I’m pretty sure I have an untrimmed MacA rail - I’ll check when I’m back in the workshop. 👍
Thank you so much Peter it's defo a real mac pair of rails & saw I will re check what you have said sorry to keep asking you but you seem to be best you tuber available for all things track /rail saws kind regards
Clive.
Had a quick look. My untrimmed rail has exactly 4mm of splinterguard showing, and the blade clips the outermost couple of mm, so I’m genuinely baffled by what’s happening with your saw. I’d show you mine but I can’t post photos here - are you on Instagram?
what about 45 degrees angle cuts ? if the blade is thick you will barely eat all your plastic band !
Plastic band? You mean the splinterguard? No, when the saw bevels it keeps it's position against the splinterguard - be pretty pointless otherwise, eh?? 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshopyes the splinterguard, I just checked my hk85 (normal circular saw) with a festool fs rail, it really destroys it with bevel cuts, especially high degrees. Conclusion use a tracksaw if you wanna save splinterguards :)
For stateside viewers, the Grizzly, Shop Fox, and Wen plunge saws all appear to be rebranded Scheppac saws
Interesting, thanks! 👍👍
I think Wen is the base mfg for all. It's certainly the cheapest. I bought one for $135 for my small tablesaw-less workshop. I've been enjoying your videos with the mft & track saw. I'm looking forward to the rest of this series.
Some good sound user friendly advice there, mate👍
Appreciate you sharing that with us.
Just out of curiosity, how much did that Aldi unit set you back?
I bought one in Aldi in Ireland and it was €89 so about £76 I think.
Cheers Bill! It’s £80, so £30 cheaper than the Titan I tested previously. 👍👍
@@michaelkelly3356 cheers for that, mate👍
I'll have to convert that to Au dollars...
@@10MinuteWorkshop cheers mate, that's roughly the same price as the table saw they have there at the moment.
@@SMee67 Yep, same here. 👍
Just bought an entry level track saw, cut the splinter, guard all good. Set the saw to a 45 bevel which re cut the splinter guard at 45 degree angle. Is this normal?
No - every saw I’ve used the saw pivots around the splinterguard, so It’s a consistent cut line. What make saw is it?
@@10MinuteWorkshop It's an Ozito, which is a Australia & New Zealand brand. Looks very similar to a Parkside. Doesn't bother me to much used mainly for construction and is ok. Usual old story only get what you pay for.
The rubber splinter Guard kept falling off of my Scheppach tracks... I ended up having to glue it on with silicone 😒
Edit... just finished watching... 🙄
A tip if you get it wrong or wear out the splinter guard is to take it off & move it out a bit & re-cut it ! Gluing it in place as I mentioned above means it ain't goin nowhere... 👍😎☘
Now you’re jumping ahead to Part 7 - guiderail maintenance & improvement... 😂👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop oops !! 😜
nice
Hi Peter. I'm a novice at this but it seems odd that you have to cut the splinterguard yourself. Couldn't this be done at the factory and reduce the risk of the customer getting it wrong? Are there any manufacturers that supply a track saw with splinterguard pre cut? Thanks.
Not that I’m aware of. It’s part of the process of setting up the saw - it takes out any slight variations and allows for alternative blades. I suppose a manufacturer could do this, but the tracks would need to be matched to the rails which I guess would add to the cost. 🤔👍