8:32 If you listen very closely, you can hear Geddy singing: "Wire it right for safety dear. Saves a life my friend. Wire for flight and learn it here. Then snip off the crumbing better turn down the end. Ow!" That's what I'm hearing anyway, your results may vary. But for sure, my lockwire skills have improved after watching these excellent videos! Thank you for showing us how to do this properly. Yet another quality Canadian product. John Candy, Neil Peart, and AgentJayZ.....if that IS your real name!
I can't remember the title, but their best song was about trees. Was it called Trees? "There is unrest in the forest..." Edit: that's their second best. My fave is Subdivisions.
@@AgentJayZ Yes, "The Trees". You can't go wrong with "Subdivisions". But you know, Rush had an entire album entitled: "Vapor Trails". Arguably not their best album, but I would think you at least would approve of the title.
"Safety" is pretty euphemistic. Its feel-good catch-all nondescript nature hides the actual purpose of the wire in this case. Lockwire is direct. Lockwire locks. What the hell does "safety wire" do?
I feel sorry for the next owner of my Toyota Corolla when he tries to take anything off it because battery terminals, lockwired, alternator, lockwired, starter motor, lock wired, water pump, lockwired sump plug, lockwired, coil packs, lock wired
I started my apprenticeship to become an aircraft mechanic two months ago... A couple of weeks ago I found this channel! I think I will become a real nerd. Through your channel I already learned so many things in advance. Thanks a lot and greetings from Germany
Stumbled on the Lock wire Part 1 video a few years ago when researching for my track motorcycle. Absolutely THE best demonstration I found..............then stayed for the awesome additional engineering and general bad ass videos of turbines. Keep up the brilliant work. Thank you.
My take-away as a beginner motorcycle wrencher is that I need 0.32 and regular pliers - if I am going to wind (occasionally) by hand (which seems much better and controllable), I don't really need the fancy spinning ones. Would be nice if they locked I guess (small visegrips?). Other than that, will need to drill my own bolts - found a guide jig for that but I like this 4x method - so will be massively overthinking this from now-on. Thanks!
I watched all three of your videos on this. Your safety/lock wiring looks awesome. I did notice that you don't use the "round the world" method to tighten the gap where the twists begin. I realize that if you start it tight, you don't need it, but I am interested in your opinion on that. Great videos!
And You have a License as A&P or Propellers to showing them now.I thinhk that You studing firrst before writing because i am aircraft Propellers specialist.
Enjoyed that. I love watching an expert at work, explaining his/her craft as they go. I have never had the need to lockwire anything in my life but I've genuinely enjoyed learning about it. Thanks.
Thank you for responding to my question! You pronounced it perfectly. A3Kr0n is just a "cool" way of writing AEKron which is my first two initials and part of my last name. I usually try to get AKron, but that username is usually taken these days.
This looks like it is lock wire. But can be used for making sure. A setting is not tinkered with h due to regulations and to affected warrantee or some adjustments.
I totally support your use of the term 'lockwire', AgentJay Z. It's obsolescent now, but that's what it was known as at R-R when I was using the stuff as an apprentice (and it certainly did bite!) and when I was dealing with it later in life on 'legacy' engines. Before I listened to your commentary, I was going to suggest that the designer of the casting should have incorporated a drilled lug for lockwiring the nut. Another, not very nice option would be to have a washer with a lug on it under an adjacent bolt, but that would mean positioning it at the correct angle (more or less). You've done the best you can with what's available to you, but the angle of that wire is greater than ideal. PS I've also heard the stuff called 'seizing wire' in marine use.
I've told another subscriber that self-locking nuts and thread inserts are the current preferred design standard - to aerospace specifications (check out the AS range of standard fasteners). The locking feature is provided by a deformed thread.
41 thousand lockwire is also used to lockwire the bolt that holds the pylon to the external fuel tank of the F-111 aircraft. You should see the torque wrench, three pieces, each one 3 feet long, no kidding, the wrench is MASSIVE! We always thought it ridiculous to lockwire it.
Great instructional, Jay! I learned a few things, as usual, so I am rethinking a few of the J44 fasteners, as in the 2-hole versus 4-hole bolt/screw heads It use both types & I like the way it prevents that 'loop around the hex head flipping over it, becoming loose' effect. Thanks again for your efforts & inspiration. Cheers. DD
I lockwire bits on my little RV4, mostly very poorly due to lack of practice, then I have to re-do it to satisfy my inspector to make sure they are in 'safety'. Maybe that's how it works ;)
Race car folks often call it "safety wire", I think because they only do it on items they consider an exceptional safety hazard. That would be in spite of the fact that almost anything that falls off a race car is a safety hazard in my view. Great video as always! Thanks.
You've answered this before, but I've missed it. Is there no place for chemical thread locking compounds on a jet engine? It seems it would save so much labor. I'm not a technician, but I really enjoy learning about the technology. Thanks for these videos.
I would expect the heat would likely degrade the majority of adhesive based locking mechanisms. Also they seem to be more vulnerable to vibration. With physical mechanisms like lock-tab washers and lockwires you can be super sure that a part will not back out. Short of something so forceful happening the safety of the engine itself is in doubt. Any adhesive based threadlock would have to show that it's just as good or better than that to even be considered.
Jay, I have a question: With the large amounts of fasteners that need to be locked and locked and unlocked fasteners sitting happily next to each other during the rebuild of the engine, how would you assure that in the end you have not forgotten to lock one or more fasteners? Do you have a checklist in the end or do you have a co-worker that goes over the engine afterwards? Thanks for the nice video's!
I've always called it lockwire, rather than safety wire, and I suppose I picked up that habit from my teachers. By the way, I work for a major airline and I learned to lockwire properly by watching AgentJayZ, who explained it a lot better than one of my teachers!
I'm looking at a 1# roll of ...uhm...wire....302-304 .025".......National Standard Company...on the front of the container it says 'safety-wire'...on the top, where the wire comes out...it says 'lockwire'...
Awesome series. I notoriously suck at doing safety wire, but after your videos, I suck a lot less 👍. One tip a Maintenance Test Pilot taught me, even though your pigtails seam to hold together just fine. When cutting the pigtail, cut it at an angle of about 45 degrees. The ends hold together much better when doing that.
@@AgentJayZ Haha, they do the test flights on our aircraft (helos) after we do maintenance on them. One of them was previously a mechanic, and shared some tips, and tricks.
Very nicely done video. I've never done lockwire myself, but your work looks handsome. My father always said if it looks ugly, it probably is. If you get my meaning.
In the 80's when I was road racing motorcycles we called it safety wire. Airplanes can call it lock wire or whatever they want to. It does not matter what it's called, it's the same thing.
The cases have been assembled for display at our local air shows, and the incomplete inventory of internal parts are safely stored in their own armored location.
AgentJayZ I'm not an engineer but I am a machinist and mechanic. I would not imagine it does as long as it's not drilled through the threads between the head and female threads, i.e. nut or threaded hole, that's where any stress would be, drilling the end for a castle-nut wouldn't affect it as it's past where any torsion or stretching forces would be applied. If drilling through the head as long as it's not right where the shank meets the head I don't think it would reduce the integrity, as the point the shank meets the head is where the tension is applied, the rest of the head is just to allow a wrench or socket to engage. That is my two cents, I'm sure an "expect" will have something to say about it. Thanks for sharing this, I'm watching it with my son.
@rats arsed Wrong chucklehead: "There are also other systems of fastener retention that do not rely on safety wire at all, such as lock washers, locknuts, jam nuts, thread-locking fluid, castellated nuts and cotter pins, all of which accomplish the same objective as safety wire, which is to prevent vibration or other forces from causing the undesired loosening of a mechanical fastener."
@rats arsed You really should watch this video again before talking about comprehension because Jay demonstrates that done right, safety wire does both, you don't lose it if it doesn't get loose. Almost any chucklehead can run safety wire and get your level of quality and not lose fasteners, but this video is about doing it right.
@rats arsed "Safety wire is not some magic cure all." Again a claim that I have never made. If you want to have an argument with yourself find a mirror and let loose, lose the tension... you really don't need me.
Very good video Sir, your video should be used for the technicians at CFSATE, CFB Borden, Ont on lockwiring !!! Keep up the good work restoring Canadian vintage engines !!!
lol. You should be doing stand-up. I mean really. If I were judge and jury I'd go with lockwire (sorry, LOCKWIRE) over safety wire because lockwire might just be used for non-safety related applications but don't tell the haters that.
Again. Superiorly satisfying to watch and appreciate the minute details to attention. Your videos make me happy AgentJayZ! Don't know about everyone else, but I could watch lock wiring all day. I don't know why, you just make it enjoyable to watch, listen and learn.
Hi, AgentJay Z. Let me tell you that I like your video-explanations are clear, simple and precise. Also let me tell you that I think people accepts more the use of safety wire because it's described on the AC 43.13-1B as safety wire. But as you describes it's acceptable too. I use your videos as a reference source. It´s not my intention to debate it's just to add another opinion. Excellent work. Greetings from Argentina.
At Time 05:39 The Bleed Air Pipe has a very large Dent in it for the I assume the Intake Anti Ice is that acceptable ??? I have looked through the Various Airman Aid memoirs as to the Use of Wire locking, Locking wire and Safety Wire. In the British Royal Air Force, Tech School and other British notes on the subject Locking wire or Wire locking is exactly that a way of positively locking an item on a component Safety wire is Wire to stop something moving in case of Failure or to Indicate something has been operated The TFE 731 Engine uses a Bayonet Fitting for the Oil Dip Stick filler point it has to be "Safety Wired" after each refill to stop the stick coming out if the bayonet isn't engaged . Fire Bottles have Tell Tail wire and safety wire on the Operating handles to show if they have been operated. So Locking wire is what it Says on the Tin Locking
That is the cooling air supply for the center bearing. This engine does not have an anti-icing air system. The dent is manufactured into the part to allow for throttle linkage clearance. The word "very" and "large" are subjective, and can lead to confusion.
@@AgentJayZ I agree however the if it were an Anti Ice or hot gas Pipe a Dent that size could cause some issues with Hot Spotting and Pressure differences I came across your VLOGs and took a look and being Trained as a Gas Turbines Tech in the RAF and also going on to Teach it in the both the Royal Saudi Air Force and in the British Army school of aviation it is nice to write to a fellow Engine man
If it was an elephant blimp, it might cause problems if it was pink. It's not and it doesn't. It's not a dent. It's the shape of the pipe. The engineers made it that way.
Another "oh so great" video! Thanks a lot. P.S. I watched both parts 1 and 2 a few years ago. Watched them again just now before watching the part 3. What a pleasure.
Cool. From my experiences I also seen Pant leg washers used on the one bolt locations on the bigger GE steam turbines generator rotary assemblys. Grey also makes a great set of left or right hand turning lock wire pliers. Great looking work. Great job once again.
I would have wired the 2 closest to the first one you wired continuously with it. And I always wire towards me, unless there's a compelling reason not to. Thanks for the videos, always nice to watch.
How tight does it need to be? I was taught if you can pull the non-aviation styles loop over the head it isn't tight enough, but it's very hard to get things that tight in areas where you cannot manhandle it with pliers for instance, is this just taught for looks? I also want to know on the engines you work on, are the vast majority of fasteners given enough holes to do the aviation method, because probably 10% give you enough in GA. I prefer the aviation method because it's way easier to get tight. I've been trying to get on with GE at an overhaul facility
OK, it took me a few minutes to find the hole(s) you mentioned.. They are not lockwire holes, but are for drainage or pressure relief in blind bolt holes. If those holes had oil or other liquid in them, and bolts were installed, the hydraulic pressure caused by tightening up the bolt would crack the casting, and wreck the part.
I have done lockwire only once and may never do it again. But if I do, these videos will come in extremely useful. I'm very glad to hear that you'll be doing more instructional type videos. I love it.
To use wire, you can drill a hole in the bolt. There are other ways to lock a bolt mechanically, like lock tabs, lockwashers, or close fitting lock plates.
Thanks again, I've always wanted to know how to do this properly in my various shop projects and sports car hobby and coming from a jet technician( a kin to rocket scientist!) I've finally got the how to videos to do it correctly. As a private pilot I also really appreciate the professionalism you demonstrate, thanks and keep up the great work.
I have a possible idea on a video. Did you make one on what to do or not to do regarding working on the gg. For example they tell us never write on the casing with lead pencil, use only a particular moly antiseeze, always cover open holes with special yellow tape, etc. I really enjoy these how to skill building videos.
not to put to fine a point on it, [ no pun intended] but you evaluated [see the cap] someone else's work and found it lacking, fail, and fixed it. oh, and this IS entertaining, as long as I don't have to to it again. lol
So many errors in your comment, it is almost incoherent. I'll need you to try again to explain what you are attempting to say. Even then, your credibility is right down there.
@@orlandogil7879 Without giving me a timestamp, I can only guess what you are complaining about. Whatever you mean by support vs adjustment, I would replace with backup and torqueing. The line connection at 9:50, I am tightening with a pair of smooth jaw parallel pliers, made by Knipex. If you are not familiar with this tool, you should try it. Faster and more secure than a traditional adjustable wrench, and also more secure than a regular open ended wrench. They are not "gripping" pliers, in that they have no serrations on their jaws, and those jaws do not pivot, but remain parallel throughout the entire range of movement. Regular, pivoting, serrated jaw pliers are not suitable for even backup, and actually are never used to install or remove bolts or nuts in my shop.
All Rlght no problem,My commentary is only as references,because the Grippiing pliers and Expansible wrench ,they arent used as tool to aircraft as FAA FARC 65
My dad worked in the aviation industry and he said it was lock wire. He would take me to work when I was a teenager. He taught me how to wire lock nuts and bolts. Interesting field.
I can't believe I just watched a 20 minute video about twisting steel wires and enjoyed it.
8:32 If you listen very closely, you can hear Geddy singing: "Wire it right for safety dear. Saves a life my friend. Wire for flight and learn it here. Then snip off the crumbing better turn down the end. Ow!" That's what I'm hearing anyway, your results may vary. But for sure, my lockwire skills have improved after watching these excellent videos! Thank you for showing us how to do this properly. Yet another quality Canadian product. John Candy, Neil Peart, and AgentJayZ.....if that IS your real name!
I can't remember the title, but their best song was about trees. Was it called Trees?
"There is unrest in the forest..."
Edit: that's their second best. My fave is Subdivisions.
@@AgentJayZ Yes, "The Trees". You can't go wrong with "Subdivisions". But you know, Rush had an entire album entitled: "Vapor Trails". Arguably not their best album, but I would think you at least would approve of the title.
"Safety" is pretty euphemistic. Its feel-good catch-all nondescript nature hides the actual purpose of the wire in this case. Lockwire is direct. Lockwire locks. What the hell does "safety wire" do?
I've never machined safety wire holes in a part, but I have machined a ton of lockwire holes... it says so right on the blueprint.
Excellent !
Its just lockwire, stop tryin to make it so perfect
The pilots and owners of these aircraft do not share your lackadaisical, sloppy attitude.
it's just a lose bolt tearing apart your engine and making your plane go down, with you on it!
Lets not bicker and argue whether it's lockwire or safetywire. The random unseen crappy pigtail will stab you in the hand all the same.
I feel sorry for the next owner of my Toyota Corolla when he tries to take anything off it because battery terminals, lockwired, alternator, lockwired, starter motor, lock wired, water pump, lockwired sump plug, lockwired, coil packs, lock wired
Ha Ha I was just thinking that with my little 10HP boat engine
I started my apprenticeship to become an aircraft mechanic two months ago... A couple of weeks ago I found this channel! I think I will become a real nerd. Through your channel I already learned so many things in advance. Thanks a lot and greetings from Germany
Most passive aggressive "thanks for your support" had me laughing! Don't change a thing. Thank you for making these videos!
3:17 for those who missed it.
Hahaha you're right.
It's obviously a lockwire, or a locking-wire, since it's a type of "positive LOCKING device".
Stumbled on the Lock wire Part 1 video a few years ago when researching for my track motorcycle. Absolutely THE best demonstration I found..............then stayed for the awesome additional engineering and general bad ass videos of turbines. Keep up the brilliant work. Thank you.
My take-away as a beginner motorcycle wrencher is that I need 0.32 and regular pliers - if I am going to wind (occasionally) by hand (which seems much better and controllable), I don't really need the fancy spinning ones. Would be nice if they locked I guess (small visegrips?). Other than that, will need to drill my own bolts - found a guide jig for that but I like this 4x method - so will be massively overthinking this from now-on. Thanks!
Get the right tools for the job. I do mostly motorcycles, cars, and boats and I rarely twist by hand. You'll appreciate the right pliers
I watched all three of your videos on this. Your safety/lock wiring looks awesome. I did notice that you don't use the "round the world" method to tighten the gap where the twists begin. I realize that if you start it tight, you don't need it, but I am interested in your opinion on that. Great videos!
Great song at 8:35. Beauty, eh?
Appreciate your high expectations for "perfection" and low tolerance for imbeciles :)
And You have a License as A&P or Propellers to showing them now.I thinhk that You studing firrst before writing because i am aircraft Propellers specialist.
Enjoyed that. I love watching an expert at work, explaining his/her craft as they go.
I have never had the need to lockwire anything in my life but I've genuinely enjoyed learning about it. Thanks.
Briefly put:
Knitting - for men.
:)
Jokes aside, well-explained and demonstrated.
Thank you.
Thanks for taking your time to help others less knowledgable .
Thank you for responding to my question! You pronounced it perfectly. A3Kr0n is just a "cool" way of writing AEKron which is my first two initials and part of my last name. I usually try to get AKron, but that username is usually taken these days.
Time to lockwire all the bolts that come loose on my shitty drift car xD
Safety wire pliers brings me back to my days working on the J-79 and F-4 phantoms
How I love to watch your videos, man. It´s like Zen. Thank you so much for shareing!
Thanks for sharing, I'm totally getting some of those assembly pliers.
This lockwireing is magic, love it!
This looks like it is lock wire. But can be used for making sure. A setting is not tinkered with h due to regulations and to affected warrantee or some adjustments.
I totally support your use of the term 'lockwire', AgentJay Z. It's obsolescent now, but that's what it was known as at R-R when I was using the stuff as an apprentice (and it certainly did bite!) and when I was dealing with it later in life on 'legacy' engines.
Before I listened to your commentary, I was going to suggest that the designer of the casting should have incorporated a drilled lug for lockwiring the nut. Another, not very nice option would be to have a washer with a lug on it under an adjacent bolt, but that would mean positioning it at the correct angle (more or less). You've done the best you can with what's available to you, but the angle of that wire is greater than ideal.
PS I've also heard the stuff called 'seizing wire' in marine use.
..."greater than ideal", but acceptable... from an engineer.
To those of us who are merely the techs (fitters?), that's a gold star!
Yay!
Hi Graham and AgentJayZ. What methods have superseded the use of lockwire in modern applications?
I've told another subscriber that self-locking nuts and thread inserts are the current preferred design standard - to aerospace specifications (check out the AS range of standard fasteners). The locking feature is provided by a deformed thread.
41 thousand lockwire is also used to lockwire the bolt that holds the pylon to the external fuel tank of the F-111 aircraft. You should see the torque wrench, three pieces, each one 3 feet long, no kidding, the wrench is MASSIVE! We always thought it ridiculous to lockwire it.
This makes me want to use lock wire on parts of my car, and my friend's cars.... I would learn how to do the modding safely and well.
Great instructional, Jay! I learned a few things, as usual, so I am rethinking a few of the J44 fasteners, as in the 2-hole versus 4-hole bolt/screw heads It use both types & I like the way it prevents that 'loop around the hex head flipping over it, becoming loose' effect. Thanks again for your efforts & inspiration. Cheers.
DD
I lockwire bits on my little RV4, mostly very poorly due to lack of practice, then I have to re-do it to satisfy my inspector to make sure they are in 'safety'. Maybe that's how it works ;)
Race car folks often call it "safety wire", I think because they only do it on items they consider an exceptional safety hazard. That would be in spite of the fact that almost anything that falls off a race car is a safety hazard in my view. Great video as always! Thanks.
In Texas, we call that baling wire....D'OH
Good video
You've answered this before, but I've missed it. Is there no place for chemical thread locking compounds on a jet engine? It seems it would save so much labor. I'm not a technician, but I really enjoy learning about the technology. Thanks for these videos.
I've also been wondering about this same thing!
I would expect the heat would likely degrade the majority of adhesive based locking mechanisms. Also they seem to be more vulnerable to vibration.
With physical mechanisms like lock-tab washers and lockwires you can be super sure that a part will not back out. Short of something so forceful happening the safety of the engine itself is in doubt.
Any adhesive based threadlock would have to show that it's just as good or better than that to even be considered.
Temperature limits perhaps?
It would be a pain to do inspections if you don't use lock wire.If you see a bolt without lock wire you know somthing is wrong
@@hulkas1715 That's even a better reason.
Jay, I have a question: With the large amounts of fasteners that need to be locked and locked and unlocked fasteners sitting happily next to each other during the rebuild of the engine, how would you assure that in the end you have not forgotten to lock one or more fasteners? Do you have a checklist in the end or do you have a co-worker that goes over the engine afterwards? Thanks for the nice video's!
I dunno, they're pretty entertaining for me :D
10:45 .041 is often used on propeller bolts.. except the Hartzell with the roll pins in the bolt heads.
I've always called it lockwire, rather than safety wire, and I suppose I picked up that habit from my teachers. By the way, I work for a major airline and I learned to lockwire properly by watching AgentJayZ, who explained it a lot better than one of my teachers!
That lock wiring is fantastic., though i am beginniner pilot, im always fascinated, thank you,
That looks OK
I'm looking at a 1# roll of ...uhm...wire....302-304 .025".......National Standard Company...on the front of the container it says 'safety-wire'...on the top, where the wire comes out...it says 'lockwire'...
I think that your first video UA-cam suggested to me was about lockwiring.
Awesome series. I notoriously suck at doing safety wire, but after your videos, I suck a lot less 👍. One tip a Maintenance Test Pilot taught me, even though your pigtails seam to hold together just fine. When cutting the pigtail, cut it at an angle of about 45 degrees. The ends hold together much better when doing that.
What is a maintenance test pilot?
@@AgentJayZ Haha, they do the test flights on our aircraft (helos) after we do maintenance on them. One of them was previously a mechanic, and shared some tips, and tricks.
In the theatrical rigging installation/repair world lockwiring is referred to as 'mousing' the bolt. 1 purpose, many trades.
all videos are very helpful for my retraining. 30 Month. Form Carmechanic to an Aircraftmechanic.
Thanks for the tips. I will be watching this video again when I get to lock wiring the Diff's on my Jaguars. Lots and lots of lockwire.
Very nicely done video. I've never done lockwire myself, but your work looks handsome. My father always said if it looks ugly, it probably is. If you get my meaning.
In the 80's when I was road racing motorcycles we called it safety wire. Airplanes can call it lock wire or whatever they want to. It does not matter what it's called, it's the same thing.
Exactly as he mentioned in the video with other words...
As a former aircraft mechanic in the USAF we refer to it as safety wire as well
Thankyou for uploading this. I am a student, it was really informative. Can you upload videos on filter maintenance and magnetic chip detector?
EASA calls it lockwire aswell
Damn I'm ready to lockwire something now on I'm gonna be looking for bolts with holes to give me a reason to lockwire it. Damnit agent z 👍
I think with lockwire can use the same saying in a lot of work, "people only notice the details that aren't there."
Hey AgentJayZ what happened to Orenda Iroquois? Any news about that magnificent giant piece?
The cases have been assembled for display at our local air shows, and the incomplete inventory of internal parts are safely stored in their own armored location.
Couldn't the wrapping around the bracket slide to the left and allow the nut to loosen a bit?
Does drilling your holes significantly impact the integrity of the bolt?
The fasteners we use are manufactured with lock/safety wire holes.
Drilling a regular bolt does not reduce it's strength, in my opinion.
AgentJayZ I'm not an engineer but I am a machinist and mechanic. I would not imagine it does as long as it's not drilled through the threads between the head and female threads, i.e. nut or threaded hole, that's where any stress would be, drilling the end for a castle-nut wouldn't affect it as it's past where any torsion or stretching forces would be applied. If drilling through the head as long as it's not right where the shank meets the head I don't think it would reduce the integrity, as the point the shank meets the head is where the tension is applied, the rest of the head is just to allow a wrench or socket to engage. That is my two cents, I'm sure an "expect" will have something to say about it. Thanks for sharing this, I'm watching it with my son.
please tell about alternative lockwire - locking with cable and special tool
It’s honestly a art form. Thanks to you I’m not bad it for a first year
Lockwire makes sense to me, I mean, a nut that prevents the fastener from getting loose is not called a safety nut... it's a locknut.
@rats arsed Wrong chucklehead:
"There are also other systems of fastener retention that do not rely on safety wire at all, such as lock washers, locknuts, jam nuts, thread-locking fluid, castellated nuts and cotter pins, all of which accomplish the same objective as safety wire, which is to prevent vibration or other forces from causing the undesired loosening of a mechanical fastener."
@rats arsed You really should watch this video again before talking about comprehension because Jay demonstrates that done right, safety wire does both, you don't lose it if it doesn't get loose. Almost any chucklehead can run safety wire and get your level of quality and not lose fasteners, but this video is about doing it right.
@rats arsed I have not commented on lock washers, do you comprehend what quotation marks are ?
@rats arsed "Safety wire is not some magic cure all." Again a claim that I have never made. If you want to have an argument with yourself find a mirror and let loose, lose the tension... you really don't need me.
Thank you for taking the time to make these videos. Very helpful!!
i wish i could do 2 thumbs up jay , great work mate
Again, thanks for such clear instruction.
There is an air tube with a bump on it, for example at 6:59. Is that a problem?
6:59... that's a dent. Not to worry.
6:54... that's not a dent. It's a clearance indentation so the fuel control linkage will get by.
Lock wire most important thing
Agentjayz commentary is one of the reasons I like his channel. He keeps things interesting, unlike some others who sound like an army film on STDs.
Oh yeah. he's good
Surgical tool, needle driver.
Very good video Sir, your video should be used for the technicians at CFSATE, CFB Borden, Ont on lockwiring !!! Keep up the good work restoring Canadian vintage engines !!!
I always thought the two terms were interchangeable and synonymous.
They are. I am responding to quite a few people who have admonished me for using the wrong term.
errr click
Beautiful Video! I love this information, so interesting and skilled, exactly what id love to learn to do. but $$ is of a premium RIP
In Lockwire pt 1, we learn how to use every day tools to do a good job of lockwiring.
@@AgentJayZ Thank you so much! i should have watched this months ago!
17:14 doh, forgot to check the torque!!
lol. You should be doing stand-up. I mean really. If I were judge and jury I'd go with lockwire (sorry, LOCKWIRE) over safety wire because lockwire might just be used for non-safety related applications but don't tell the haters that.
Again. Superiorly satisfying to watch and appreciate the minute details to attention. Your videos make me happy AgentJayZ! Don't know about everyone else, but I could watch lock wiring all day. I don't know why, you just make it enjoyable to watch, listen and learn.
Hi, AgentJay Z. Let me tell you that I like your video-explanations are clear, simple and precise. Also let me tell you that I think people accepts more the use of safety wire because it's described on the AC 43.13-1B as safety wire. But as you describes it's acceptable too. I use your videos as a reference source. It´s not my intention to debate it's just to add another opinion. Excellent work. Greetings from Argentina.
At Time 05:39 The Bleed Air Pipe has a very large Dent in it for the I assume the Intake Anti Ice is that acceptable ??? I have looked through the Various Airman Aid memoirs as to the Use of Wire locking, Locking wire and Safety Wire. In the British Royal Air Force, Tech School and other British notes on the subject Locking wire or Wire locking is exactly that a way of positively locking an item on a component Safety wire is Wire to stop something moving in case of Failure or to Indicate something has been operated The TFE 731 Engine uses a Bayonet Fitting for the Oil Dip Stick filler point it has to be "Safety Wired" after each refill to stop the stick coming out if the bayonet isn't engaged . Fire Bottles have Tell Tail wire and safety wire on the Operating handles to show if they have been operated. So Locking wire is what it Says on the Tin Locking
That is the cooling air supply for the center bearing. This engine does not have an anti-icing air system. The dent is manufactured into the part to allow for throttle linkage clearance.
The word "very" and "large" are subjective, and can lead to confusion.
@@AgentJayZ I agree however the if it were an Anti Ice or hot gas Pipe a Dent that size could cause some issues with Hot Spotting and Pressure differences I came across your VLOGs and took a look and being Trained as a Gas Turbines Tech in the RAF and also going on to Teach it in the both the Royal Saudi Air Force and in the British Army school of aviation it is nice to write to a fellow Engine man
If it was an elephant blimp, it might cause problems if it was pink.
It's not and it doesn't.
It's not a dent. It's the shape of the pipe.
The engineers made it that way.
Another "oh so great" video! Thanks a lot.
P.S. I watched both parts 1 and 2 a few years ago. Watched them again just now before watching the part 3. What a pleasure.
That intrepid little mountain climber; may all his ascents be filled with high calorie snacks.
Love ya AgentJayz.
Cool.
From my experiences I also seen Pant leg washers used on the one bolt locations on the bigger GE steam turbines generator rotary assemblys. Grey also makes a great set of left or right hand turning lock wire pliers. Great looking work.
Great job once again.
I would have wired the 2 closest to the first one you wired continuously with it. And I always wire towards me, unless there's a compelling reason not to. Thanks for the videos, always nice to watch.
How tight does it need to be? I was taught if you can pull the non-aviation styles loop over the head it isn't tight enough, but it's very hard to get things that tight in areas where you cannot manhandle it with pliers for instance, is this just taught for looks? I also want to know on the engines you work on, are the vast majority of fasteners given enough holes to do the aviation method, because probably 10% give you enough in GA. I prefer the aviation method because it's way easier to get tight. I've been trying to get on with GE at an overhaul facility
at 16:11 mid screen directly below the philips screw there is a black dot about two bolt heads down. Is that the lockwire hole you are missing?
I will check tomorrow morning. If it is, I will be surprised. Stand by.
OK, it took me a few minutes to find the hole(s) you mentioned.. They are not lockwire holes, but are for drainage or pressure relief in blind bolt holes. If those holes had oil or other liquid in them, and bolts were installed, the hydraulic pressure caused by tightening up the bolt would crack the casting, and wreck the part.
@@AgentJayZ thanks for looking have a great weekend!
This guy doesn’t make mistakes how dare you
I have done lockwire only once and may never do it again. But if I do, these videos will come in extremely useful. I'm very glad to hear that you'll be doing more instructional type videos. I love it.
Fascinating! I wonder if it is possible to lock wire a bolt that has no hole drilled for that purpose? Or is that a stupid question? Hummm?
To use wire, you can drill a hole in the bolt. There are other ways to lock a bolt mechanically, like lock tabs, lockwashers, or close fitting lock plates.
Thank you for reply. But doesn't drilling a hole in the head of the bolt inherently weaken it's structure if not done precisely?
Yes, but the head is not the weakest part of a bolt, so no problem.
Thanks again, I've always wanted to know how to do this properly in my various shop projects and sports car hobby and coming from a jet technician( a kin to rocket scientist!) I've finally got the how to videos to do it correctly. As a private pilot I also really appreciate the professionalism you demonstrate, thanks and keep up the great work.
Lock wire. Your good. Caterpillar had torkturn. That sure loose them. And love it.
I have a possible idea on a video. Did you make one on what to do or not to do regarding working on the gg. For example they tell us never write on the casing with lead pencil, use only a particular moly antiseeze, always cover open holes with special yellow tape, etc. I really enjoy these how to skill building videos.
I see Polish flag on the wall i'm proud :) Thanks !!! BTW great channel
not to put to fine a point on it, [ no pun intended] but you evaluated [see the cap] someone else's work and found it lacking, fail, and fixed it. oh, and this IS entertaining, as long as I don't have to to it again. lol
I don't know that You have a A&P License,because You use a grippiing tools yo adjutsment nut and it is error, sorry,but is a excelent video
So many errors in your comment, it is almost incoherent. I'll need you to try again to explain what you are attempting to say.
Even then, your credibility is right down there.
Thanksgiving answers fast,and your tools are excelent,but single case isnt correct tool
They grippiing pliers only can use ss support , NEVER to adjutsment,and i happy for your video because i am aircraft tecn.
@@orlandogil7879 Without giving me a timestamp, I can only guess what you are complaining about. Whatever you mean by support vs adjustment, I would replace with backup and torqueing.
The line connection at 9:50, I am tightening with a pair of smooth jaw parallel pliers, made by Knipex. If you are not familiar with this tool, you should try it. Faster and more secure than a traditional adjustable wrench, and also more secure than a regular open ended wrench.
They are not "gripping" pliers, in that they have no serrations on their jaws, and those jaws do not pivot, but remain parallel throughout the entire range of movement.
Regular, pivoting, serrated jaw pliers are not suitable for even backup, and actually are never used to install or remove bolts or nuts in my shop.
All Rlght no problem,My commentary is only as references,because the Grippiing pliers and Expansible wrench ,they arent used as tool to aircraft as FAA FARC 65
It only became safety wire when the OHS crowd got control of the vocabulary.
To remove lockwire. undo it or cut it ?
Both are options.
My dad worked in the aviation industry and he said it was lock wire. He would take me to work when I was a teenager. He taught me how to wire lock nuts and bolts. Interesting field.
You guys us safety cable much? BTW, you need to replace that adel clamp on that hard line. 😉
when you lockwire the first big nut why didnt you go to the first small bolt then across to the next one instead of using the pipe clamp
It's part of that personal professional standards that one should have for their craft.
Always enjoy these sorts of vids.
i have always called it safety lockwire.
On this channel, spelling counts.
Great video!! Thanks for Your support in learning Engine staff
For my BEng Degree we have to do this! And we call it lock wiring in England too haha
Huh, I live 2 miles from where that lockwire is made. Go figure.
Australian engineers also call it "lockwire".
We even use the same brand!
I would like to see how you used the open hole to connect the lockwire. You didn't show how it is done. Also can lockwire be tied to a blind rivet?
We use the "barrel roll" technique to cinch down the whole safety on our ch47s
Thanks for uploading. Thumbs up!