I started my apprenticeship to become an aircraft mechanic two months ago... A couple of weeks ago I found this channel! I think I will become a real nerd. Through your channel I already learned so many things in advance. Thanks a lot and greetings from Germany
Stumbled on the Lock wire Part 1 video a few years ago when researching for my track motorcycle. Absolutely THE best demonstration I found..............then stayed for the awesome additional engineering and general bad ass videos of turbines. Keep up the brilliant work. Thank you.
Enjoyed that. I love watching an expert at work, explaining his/her craft as they go. I have never had the need to lockwire anything in my life but I've genuinely enjoyed learning about it. Thanks.
Great instructional, Jay! I learned a few things, as usual, so I am rethinking a few of the J44 fasteners, as in the 2-hole versus 4-hole bolt/screw heads It use both types & I like the way it prevents that 'loop around the hex head flipping over it, becoming loose' effect. Thanks again for your efforts & inspiration. Cheers. DD
My take-away as a beginner motorcycle wrencher is that I need 0.32 and regular pliers - if I am going to wind (occasionally) by hand (which seems much better and controllable), I don't really need the fancy spinning ones. Would be nice if they locked I guess (small visegrips?). Other than that, will need to drill my own bolts - found a guide jig for that but I like this 4x method - so will be massively overthinking this from now-on. Thanks!
8:32 If you listen very closely, you can hear Geddy singing: "Wire it right for safety dear. Saves a life my friend. Wire for flight and learn it here. Then snip off the crumbing better turn down the end. Ow!" That's what I'm hearing anyway, your results may vary. But for sure, my lockwire skills have improved after watching these excellent videos! Thank you for showing us how to do this properly. Yet another quality Canadian product. John Candy, Neil Peart, and AgentJayZ.....if that IS your real name!
I can't remember the title, but their best song was about trees. Was it called Trees? "There is unrest in the forest..." Edit: that's their second best. My fave is Subdivisions.
@@AgentJayZ Yes, "The Trees". You can't go wrong with "Subdivisions". But you know, Rush had an entire album entitled: "Vapor Trails". Arguably not their best album, but I would think you at least would approve of the title.
Race car folks often call it "safety wire", I think because they only do it on items they consider an exceptional safety hazard. That would be in spite of the fact that almost anything that falls off a race car is a safety hazard in my view. Great video as always! Thanks.
Cool. From my experiences I also seen Pant leg washers used on the one bolt locations on the bigger GE steam turbines generator rotary assemblys. Grey also makes a great set of left or right hand turning lock wire pliers. Great looking work. Great job once again.
I watched all three of your videos on this. Your safety/lock wiring looks awesome. I did notice that you don't use the "round the world" method to tighten the gap where the twists begin. I realize that if you start it tight, you don't need it, but I am interested in your opinion on that. Great videos!
I have done lockwire only once and may never do it again. But if I do, these videos will come in extremely useful. I'm very glad to hear that you'll be doing more instructional type videos. I love it.
My dad worked in the aviation industry and he said it was lock wire. He would take me to work when I was a teenager. He taught me how to wire lock nuts and bolts. Interesting field.
Again. Superiorly satisfying to watch and appreciate the minute details to attention. Your videos make me happy AgentJayZ! Don't know about everyone else, but I could watch lock wiring all day. I don't know why, you just make it enjoyable to watch, listen and learn.
Awesome series. I notoriously suck at doing safety wire, but after your videos, I suck a lot less 👍. One tip a Maintenance Test Pilot taught me, even though your pigtails seam to hold together just fine. When cutting the pigtail, cut it at an angle of about 45 degrees. The ends hold together much better when doing that.
@@AgentJayZ Haha, they do the test flights on our aircraft (helos) after we do maintenance on them. One of them was previously a mechanic, and shared some tips, and tricks.
Another "oh so great" video! Thanks a lot. P.S. I watched both parts 1 and 2 a few years ago. Watched them again just now before watching the part 3. What a pleasure.
Thank you for responding to my question! You pronounced it perfectly. A3Kr0n is just a "cool" way of writing AEKron which is my first two initials and part of my last name. I usually try to get AKron, but that username is usually taken these days.
Very good video Sir, your video should be used for the technicians at CFSATE, CFB Borden, Ont on lockwiring !!! Keep up the good work restoring Canadian vintage engines !!!
41 thousand lockwire is also used to lockwire the bolt that holds the pylon to the external fuel tank of the F-111 aircraft. You should see the torque wrench, three pieces, each one 3 feet long, no kidding, the wrench is MASSIVE! We always thought it ridiculous to lockwire it.
I would have wired the 2 closest to the first one you wired continuously with it. And I always wire towards me, unless there's a compelling reason not to. Thanks for the videos, always nice to watch.
I feel sorry for the next owner of my Toyota Corolla when he tries to take anything off it because battery terminals, lockwired, alternator, lockwired, starter motor, lock wired, water pump, lockwired sump plug, lockwired, coil packs, lock wired
I totally support your use of the term 'lockwire', AgentJay Z. It's obsolescent now, but that's what it was known as at R-R when I was using the stuff as an apprentice (and it certainly did bite!) and when I was dealing with it later in life on 'legacy' engines. Before I listened to your commentary, I was going to suggest that the designer of the casting should have incorporated a drilled lug for lockwiring the nut. Another, not very nice option would be to have a washer with a lug on it under an adjacent bolt, but that would mean positioning it at the correct angle (more or less). You've done the best you can with what's available to you, but the angle of that wire is greater than ideal. PS I've also heard the stuff called 'seizing wire' in marine use.
I've told another subscriber that self-locking nuts and thread inserts are the current preferred design standard - to aerospace specifications (check out the AS range of standard fasteners). The locking feature is provided by a deformed thread.
In the 80's when I was road racing motorcycles we called it safety wire. Airplanes can call it lock wire or whatever they want to. It does not matter what it's called, it's the same thing.
I lockwire bits on my little RV4, mostly very poorly due to lack of practice, then I have to re-do it to satisfy my inspector to make sure they are in 'safety'. Maybe that's how it works ;)
This looks like it is lock wire. But can be used for making sure. A setting is not tinkered with h due to regulations and to affected warrantee or some adjustments.
Hi, AgentJay Z. Let me tell you that I like your video-explanations are clear, simple and precise. Also let me tell you that I think people accepts more the use of safety wire because it's described on the AC 43.13-1B as safety wire. But as you describes it's acceptable too. I use your videos as a reference source. It´s not my intention to debate it's just to add another opinion. Excellent work. Greetings from Argentina.
You've answered this before, but I've missed it. Is there no place for chemical thread locking compounds on a jet engine? It seems it would save so much labor. I'm not a technician, but I really enjoy learning about the technology. Thanks for these videos.
I would expect the heat would likely degrade the majority of adhesive based locking mechanisms. Also they seem to be more vulnerable to vibration. With physical mechanisms like lock-tab washers and lockwires you can be super sure that a part will not back out. Short of something so forceful happening the safety of the engine itself is in doubt. Any adhesive based threadlock would have to show that it's just as good or better than that to even be considered.
I've always called it lockwire, rather than safety wire, and I suppose I picked up that habit from my teachers. By the way, I work for a major airline and I learned to lockwire properly by watching AgentJayZ, who explained it a lot better than one of my teachers!
"Safety" is pretty euphemistic. Its feel-good catch-all nondescript nature hides the actual purpose of the wire in this case. Lockwire is direct. Lockwire locks. What the hell does "safety wire" do?
Jay, I have a question: With the large amounts of fasteners that need to be locked and locked and unlocked fasteners sitting happily next to each other during the rebuild of the engine, how would you assure that in the end you have not forgotten to lock one or more fasteners? Do you have a checklist in the end or do you have a co-worker that goes over the engine afterwards? Thanks for the nice video's!
Very nicely done video. I've never done lockwire myself, but your work looks handsome. My father always said if it looks ugly, it probably is. If you get my meaning.
I have a possible idea on a video. Did you make one on what to do or not to do regarding working on the gg. For example they tell us never write on the casing with lead pencil, use only a particular moly antiseeze, always cover open holes with special yellow tape, etc. I really enjoy these how to skill building videos.
And You have a License as A&P or Propellers to showing them now.I thinhk that You studing firrst before writing because i am aircraft Propellers specialist.
AgentJayZ I'm not an engineer but I am a machinist and mechanic. I would not imagine it does as long as it's not drilled through the threads between the head and female threads, i.e. nut or threaded hole, that's where any stress would be, drilling the end for a castle-nut wouldn't affect it as it's past where any torsion or stretching forces would be applied. If drilling through the head as long as it's not right where the shank meets the head I don't think it would reduce the integrity, as the point the shank meets the head is where the tension is applied, the rest of the head is just to allow a wrench or socket to engage. That is my two cents, I'm sure an "expect" will have something to say about it. Thanks for sharing this, I'm watching it with my son.
How tight does it need to be? I was taught if you can pull the non-aviation styles loop over the head it isn't tight enough, but it's very hard to get things that tight in areas where you cannot manhandle it with pliers for instance, is this just taught for looks? I also want to know on the engines you work on, are the vast majority of fasteners given enough holes to do the aviation method, because probably 10% give you enough in GA. I prefer the aviation method because it's way easier to get tight. I've been trying to get on with GE at an overhaul facility
Hey Jay, why not nord-lock locking washers on fasteners instead of lock wire? I'm guessing those engines were around before those washers but do you think a nord-lock type of lock washer would be a good substitute in a modern engine to eliminate the need for lock wire? Is that perhaps the washer used on the hardware thats on the lucas-rotax limited thing in the lower right corner of the screen?
I believe one reason lock-wire is used as opposed to lock-washers (I'm sure this was a point made be AJZ in a previous video) is to retain any hardware that comes loose so it does not get ingested into the engine which could cause a major failure. Wikipedia also points out that it serves as a visual clue that the lock-wired bolt had been properly tightened/torqued ... after watching the video this is pointed out by Jay at about 07:50.
To use wire, you can drill a hole in the bolt. There are other ways to lock a bolt mechanically, like lock tabs, lockwashers, or close fitting lock plates.
Thanks again, I've always wanted to know how to do this properly in my various shop projects and sports car hobby and coming from a jet technician( a kin to rocket scientist!) I've finally got the how to videos to do it correctly. As a private pilot I also really appreciate the professionalism you demonstrate, thanks and keep up the great work.
The cases have been assembled for display at our local air shows, and the incomplete inventory of internal parts are safely stored in their own armored location.
At Time 05:39 The Bleed Air Pipe has a very large Dent in it for the I assume the Intake Anti Ice is that acceptable ??? I have looked through the Various Airman Aid memoirs as to the Use of Wire locking, Locking wire and Safety Wire. In the British Royal Air Force, Tech School and other British notes on the subject Locking wire or Wire locking is exactly that a way of positively locking an item on a component Safety wire is Wire to stop something moving in case of Failure or to Indicate something has been operated The TFE 731 Engine uses a Bayonet Fitting for the Oil Dip Stick filler point it has to be "Safety Wired" after each refill to stop the stick coming out if the bayonet isn't engaged . Fire Bottles have Tell Tail wire and safety wire on the Operating handles to show if they have been operated. So Locking wire is what it Says on the Tin Locking
That is the cooling air supply for the center bearing. This engine does not have an anti-icing air system. The dent is manufactured into the part to allow for throttle linkage clearance. The word "very" and "large" are subjective, and can lead to confusion.
@@AgentJayZ I agree however the if it were an Anti Ice or hot gas Pipe a Dent that size could cause some issues with Hot Spotting and Pressure differences I came across your VLOGs and took a look and being Trained as a Gas Turbines Tech in the RAF and also going on to Teach it in the both the Royal Saudi Air Force and in the British Army school of aviation it is nice to write to a fellow Engine man
If it was an elephant blimp, it might cause problems if it was pink. It's not and it doesn't. It's not a dent. It's the shape of the pipe. The engineers made it that way.
Acceptable angle for lockwire? Like the one you did in this video, locking that bigger nut to a tab. That wire barely pulls to the direction it fastens. 90degree angle acceptable? 89 or 91 not because it pulls the nut anticlockwise and would loosen it.
Angle does not really matter. Sometimes you’ll have to fasten stuff like oil filters where the angle varies. All that matters is that it is tight and tied in a clockwise direction to prevent anticlockwise loosing. Hope this helps
OK, it took me a few minutes to find the hole(s) you mentioned.. They are not lockwire holes, but are for drainage or pressure relief in blind bolt holes. If those holes had oil or other liquid in them, and bolts were installed, the hydraulic pressure caused by tightening up the bolt would crack the casting, and wreck the part.
@15:20, there are two indententions visible on two separate pieces of tubing: the first is the tube that has the red sticker on it (top left), and the second is the second tube from the right of the screen. I'm not sure if I'm seeing it right or if it's simply not a big deal for those particular components. Any comments?
Jay, a J3 Cub owner here and aspiring Lockwire installer. The Knipex 28 01 200 pliers have serrated jaws. Do you recommend smooth jaw for lockwire work or are serrated OK? Thanks!
For engine work, the serrated jaw pliers should not be used in auto twist between fasteners, because they leave nicks in the wire. When you see someone doing that, it's a clear sign that they either don't know, or don't care. I use them as locking pliers on one strand, and duckbills on the other. Twist by hand, and it comes out well. Smooth jaw pliers are OK to auto-twist between bolts, but are not as good a tool for bending and finishing the tail. So I prefer the flat, serrated jaws, and don't use auto-twist.
Get the books now, and read ahead. Stay off your phone while in class and in the hangar. Old guys like me respond to respect, and they respond to disrespect. There, that's three pieces of very good advice. I wish you much success!
AgentJayZ wow that was quick lol. I actually just bought a powerplant textbook on amazon. I hope it will teach me some key elements of what I will learn in the next 2 years. Thank you much for the advice!
there was some in the start of the video, he didn't point it out tho, would like to know why only one instance was used, there was probably a neat reason
@rats arsed Wrong chucklehead: "There are also other systems of fastener retention that do not rely on safety wire at all, such as lock washers, locknuts, jam nuts, thread-locking fluid, castellated nuts and cotter pins, all of which accomplish the same objective as safety wire, which is to prevent vibration or other forces from causing the undesired loosening of a mechanical fastener."
@rats arsed You really should watch this video again before talking about comprehension because Jay demonstrates that done right, safety wire does both, you don't lose it if it doesn't get loose. Almost any chucklehead can run safety wire and get your level of quality and not lose fasteners, but this video is about doing it right.
@rats arsed "Safety wire is not some magic cure all." Again a claim that I have never made. If you want to have an argument with yourself find a mirror and let loose, lose the tension... you really don't need me.
I'm looking at a 1# roll of ...uhm...wire....302-304 .025".......National Standard Company...on the front of the container it says 'safety-wire'...on the top, where the wire comes out...it says 'lockwire'...
I can't believe I just watched a 20 minute video about twisting steel wires and enjoyed it.
I started my apprenticeship to become an aircraft mechanic two months ago... A couple of weeks ago I found this channel! I think I will become a real nerd. Through your channel I already learned so many things in advance. Thanks a lot and greetings from Germany
Stumbled on the Lock wire Part 1 video a few years ago when researching for my track motorcycle. Absolutely THE best demonstration I found..............then stayed for the awesome additional engineering and general bad ass videos of turbines. Keep up the brilliant work. Thank you.
Most passive aggressive "thanks for your support" had me laughing! Don't change a thing. Thank you for making these videos!
3:17 for those who missed it.
Hahaha you're right.
Enjoyed that. I love watching an expert at work, explaining his/her craft as they go.
I have never had the need to lockwire anything in my life but I've genuinely enjoyed learning about it. Thanks.
Thanks for taking your time to help others less knowledgable .
Safety wire pliers brings me back to my days working on the J-79 and F-4 phantoms
How I love to watch your videos, man. It´s like Zen. Thank you so much for shareing!
This lockwireing is magic, love it!
Great instructional, Jay! I learned a few things, as usual, so I am rethinking a few of the J44 fasteners, as in the 2-hole versus 4-hole bolt/screw heads It use both types & I like the way it prevents that 'loop around the hex head flipping over it, becoming loose' effect. Thanks again for your efforts & inspiration. Cheers.
DD
Lets not bicker and argue whether it's lockwire or safetywire. The random unseen crappy pigtail will stab you in the hand all the same.
My take-away as a beginner motorcycle wrencher is that I need 0.32 and regular pliers - if I am going to wind (occasionally) by hand (which seems much better and controllable), I don't really need the fancy spinning ones. Would be nice if they locked I guess (small visegrips?). Other than that, will need to drill my own bolts - found a guide jig for that but I like this 4x method - so will be massively overthinking this from now-on. Thanks!
Get the right tools for the job. I do mostly motorcycles, cars, and boats and I rarely twist by hand. You'll appreciate the right pliers
Thanks for sharing, I'm totally getting some of those assembly pliers.
8:32 If you listen very closely, you can hear Geddy singing: "Wire it right for safety dear. Saves a life my friend. Wire for flight and learn it here. Then snip off the crumbing better turn down the end. Ow!" That's what I'm hearing anyway, your results may vary. But for sure, my lockwire skills have improved after watching these excellent videos! Thank you for showing us how to do this properly. Yet another quality Canadian product. John Candy, Neil Peart, and AgentJayZ.....if that IS your real name!
I can't remember the title, but their best song was about trees. Was it called Trees?
"There is unrest in the forest..."
Edit: that's their second best. My fave is Subdivisions.
@@AgentJayZ Yes, "The Trees". You can't go wrong with "Subdivisions". But you know, Rush had an entire album entitled: "Vapor Trails". Arguably not their best album, but I would think you at least would approve of the title.
Thanks for the tips. I will be watching this video again when I get to lock wiring the Diff's on my Jaguars. Lots and lots of lockwire.
Race car folks often call it "safety wire", I think because they only do it on items they consider an exceptional safety hazard. That would be in spite of the fact that almost anything that falls off a race car is a safety hazard in my view. Great video as always! Thanks.
Cool.
From my experiences I also seen Pant leg washers used on the one bolt locations on the bigger GE steam turbines generator rotary assemblys. Grey also makes a great set of left or right hand turning lock wire pliers. Great looking work.
Great job once again.
I watched all three of your videos on this. Your safety/lock wiring looks awesome. I did notice that you don't use the "round the world" method to tighten the gap where the twists begin. I realize that if you start it tight, you don't need it, but I am interested in your opinion on that. Great videos!
I have done lockwire only once and may never do it again. But if I do, these videos will come in extremely useful. I'm very glad to hear that you'll be doing more instructional type videos. I love it.
That lock wiring is fantastic., though i am beginniner pilot, im always fascinated, thank you,
Agentjayz commentary is one of the reasons I like his channel. He keeps things interesting, unlike some others who sound like an army film on STDs.
Oh yeah. he's good
My dad worked in the aviation industry and he said it was lock wire. He would take me to work when I was a teenager. He taught me how to wire lock nuts and bolts. Interesting field.
Again. Superiorly satisfying to watch and appreciate the minute details to attention. Your videos make me happy AgentJayZ! Don't know about everyone else, but I could watch lock wiring all day. I don't know why, you just make it enjoyable to watch, listen and learn.
It's part of that personal professional standards that one should have for their craft.
Always enjoy these sorts of vids.
Awesome series. I notoriously suck at doing safety wire, but after your videos, I suck a lot less 👍. One tip a Maintenance Test Pilot taught me, even though your pigtails seam to hold together just fine. When cutting the pigtail, cut it at an angle of about 45 degrees. The ends hold together much better when doing that.
What is a maintenance test pilot?
@@AgentJayZ Haha, they do the test flights on our aircraft (helos) after we do maintenance on them. One of them was previously a mechanic, and shared some tips, and tricks.
Another "oh so great" video! Thanks a lot.
P.S. I watched both parts 1 and 2 a few years ago. Watched them again just now before watching the part 3. What a pleasure.
It’s honestly a art form. Thanks to you I’m not bad it for a first year
Thank you for taking the time to make these videos. Very helpful!!
Thank you for responding to my question! You pronounced it perfectly. A3Kr0n is just a "cool" way of writing AEKron which is my first two initials and part of my last name. I usually try to get AKron, but that username is usually taken these days.
Briefly put:
Knitting - for men.
:)
Jokes aside, well-explained and demonstrated.
Thank you.
Very good video Sir, your video should be used for the technicians at CFSATE, CFB Borden, Ont on lockwiring !!! Keep up the good work restoring Canadian vintage engines !!!
41 thousand lockwire is also used to lockwire the bolt that holds the pylon to the external fuel tank of the F-111 aircraft. You should see the torque wrench, three pieces, each one 3 feet long, no kidding, the wrench is MASSIVE! We always thought it ridiculous to lockwire it.
I would have wired the 2 closest to the first one you wired continuously with it. And I always wire towards me, unless there's a compelling reason not to. Thanks for the videos, always nice to watch.
I feel sorry for the next owner of my Toyota Corolla when he tries to take anything off it because battery terminals, lockwired, alternator, lockwired, starter motor, lock wired, water pump, lockwired sump plug, lockwired, coil packs, lock wired
Ha Ha I was just thinking that with my little 10HP boat engine
It's obviously a lockwire, or a locking-wire, since it's a type of "positive LOCKING device".
I totally support your use of the term 'lockwire', AgentJay Z. It's obsolescent now, but that's what it was known as at R-R when I was using the stuff as an apprentice (and it certainly did bite!) and when I was dealing with it later in life on 'legacy' engines.
Before I listened to your commentary, I was going to suggest that the designer of the casting should have incorporated a drilled lug for lockwiring the nut. Another, not very nice option would be to have a washer with a lug on it under an adjacent bolt, but that would mean positioning it at the correct angle (more or less). You've done the best you can with what's available to you, but the angle of that wire is greater than ideal.
PS I've also heard the stuff called 'seizing wire' in marine use.
..."greater than ideal", but acceptable... from an engineer.
To those of us who are merely the techs (fitters?), that's a gold star!
Yay!
Hi Graham and AgentJayZ. What methods have superseded the use of lockwire in modern applications?
I've told another subscriber that self-locking nuts and thread inserts are the current preferred design standard - to aerospace specifications (check out the AS range of standard fasteners). The locking feature is provided by a deformed thread.
In the 80's when I was road racing motorcycles we called it safety wire. Airplanes can call it lock wire or whatever they want to. It does not matter what it's called, it's the same thing.
Exactly as he mentioned in the video with other words...
As a former aircraft mechanic in the USAF we refer to it as safety wire as well
I lockwire bits on my little RV4, mostly very poorly due to lack of practice, then I have to re-do it to satisfy my inspector to make sure they are in 'safety'. Maybe that's how it works ;)
10:45 .041 is often used on propeller bolts.. except the Hartzell with the roll pins in the bolt heads.
Again, thanks for such clear instruction.
In Texas, we call that baling wire....D'OH
Good video
I've never machined safety wire holes in a part, but I have machined a ton of lockwire holes... it says so right on the blueprint.
Excellent !
all videos are very helpful for my retraining. 30 Month. Form Carmechanic to an Aircraftmechanic.
This looks like it is lock wire. But can be used for making sure. A setting is not tinkered with h due to regulations and to affected warrantee or some adjustments.
Hi, AgentJay Z. Let me tell you that I like your video-explanations are clear, simple and precise. Also let me tell you that I think people accepts more the use of safety wire because it's described on the AC 43.13-1B as safety wire. But as you describes it's acceptable too. I use your videos as a reference source. It´s not my intention to debate it's just to add another opinion. Excellent work. Greetings from Argentina.
That intrepid little mountain climber; may all his ascents be filled with high calorie snacks.
Love ya AgentJayz.
Great video!! Thanks for Your support in learning Engine staff
I think with lockwire can use the same saying in a lot of work, "people only notice the details that aren't there."
You've answered this before, but I've missed it. Is there no place for chemical thread locking compounds on a jet engine? It seems it would save so much labor. I'm not a technician, but I really enjoy learning about the technology. Thanks for these videos.
I've also been wondering about this same thing!
I would expect the heat would likely degrade the majority of adhesive based locking mechanisms. Also they seem to be more vulnerable to vibration.
With physical mechanisms like lock-tab washers and lockwires you can be super sure that a part will not back out. Short of something so forceful happening the safety of the engine itself is in doubt.
Any adhesive based threadlock would have to show that it's just as good or better than that to even be considered.
Temperature limits perhaps?
It would be a pain to do inspections if you don't use lock wire.If you see a bolt without lock wire you know somthing is wrong
@@hulkas1715 That's even a better reason.
This makes me want to use lock wire on parts of my car, and my friend's cars.... I would learn how to do the modding safely and well.
I love watching you do lockwire.
I've always called it lockwire, rather than safety wire, and I suppose I picked up that habit from my teachers. By the way, I work for a major airline and I learned to lockwire properly by watching AgentJayZ, who explained it a lot better than one of my teachers!
"Safety" is pretty euphemistic. Its feel-good catch-all nondescript nature hides the actual purpose of the wire in this case. Lockwire is direct. Lockwire locks. What the hell does "safety wire" do?
Jay, I have a question: With the large amounts of fasteners that need to be locked and locked and unlocked fasteners sitting happily next to each other during the rebuild of the engine, how would you assure that in the end you have not forgotten to lock one or more fasteners? Do you have a checklist in the end or do you have a co-worker that goes over the engine afterwards? Thanks for the nice video's!
Very nicely done video. I've never done lockwire myself, but your work looks handsome. My father always said if it looks ugly, it probably is. If you get my meaning.
love the educational videos, even though I'm not a engine technician
i wish i could do 2 thumbs up jay , great work mate
In the theatrical rigging installation/repair world lockwiring is referred to as 'mousing' the bolt. 1 purpose, many trades.
I have a possible idea on a video. Did you make one on what to do or not to do regarding working on the gg. For example they tell us never write on the casing with lead pencil, use only a particular moly antiseeze, always cover open holes with special yellow tape, etc. I really enjoy these how to skill building videos.
Appreciate your high expectations for "perfection" and low tolerance for imbeciles :)
And You have a License as A&P or Propellers to showing them now.I thinhk that You studing firrst before writing because i am aircraft Propellers specialist.
I think that your first video UA-cam suggested to me was about lockwiring.
Great song at 8:35. Beauty, eh?
Thankyou for uploading this. I am a student, it was really informative. Can you upload videos on filter maintenance and magnetic chip detector?
Damn I'm ready to lockwire something now on I'm gonna be looking for bolts with holes to give me a reason to lockwire it. Damnit agent z 👍
Lock wire. Your good. Caterpillar had torkturn. That sure loose them. And love it.
Does drilling your holes significantly impact the integrity of the bolt?
The fasteners we use are manufactured with lock/safety wire holes.
Drilling a regular bolt does not reduce it's strength, in my opinion.
AgentJayZ I'm not an engineer but I am a machinist and mechanic. I would not imagine it does as long as it's not drilled through the threads between the head and female threads, i.e. nut or threaded hole, that's where any stress would be, drilling the end for a castle-nut wouldn't affect it as it's past where any torsion or stretching forces would be applied. If drilling through the head as long as it's not right where the shank meets the head I don't think it would reduce the integrity, as the point the shank meets the head is where the tension is applied, the rest of the head is just to allow a wrench or socket to engage. That is my two cents, I'm sure an "expect" will have something to say about it. Thanks for sharing this, I'm watching it with my son.
Time to lockwire all the bolts that come loose on my shitty drift car xD
I would like to see how you used the open hole to connect the lockwire. You didn't show how it is done. Also can lockwire be tied to a blind rivet?
Couldn't the wrapping around the bracket slide to the left and allow the nut to loosen a bit?
How tight does it need to be? I was taught if you can pull the non-aviation styles loop over the head it isn't tight enough, but it's very hard to get things that tight in areas where you cannot manhandle it with pliers for instance, is this just taught for looks? I also want to know on the engines you work on, are the vast majority of fasteners given enough holes to do the aviation method, because probably 10% give you enough in GA. I prefer the aviation method because it's way easier to get tight. I've been trying to get on with GE at an overhaul facility
For my BEng Degree we have to do this! And we call it lock wiring in England too haha
please tell about alternative lockwire - locking with cable and special tool
Australian engineers also call it "lockwire".
We even use the same brand!
I dunno, they're pretty entertaining for me :D
Hey Jay, why not nord-lock locking washers on fasteners instead of lock wire? I'm guessing those engines were around before those washers but do you think a nord-lock type of lock washer would be a good substitute in a modern engine to eliminate the need for lock wire?
Is that perhaps the washer used on the hardware thats on the lucas-rotax limited thing in the lower right corner of the screen?
I believe one reason lock-wire is used as opposed to lock-washers (I'm sure this was a point made be AJZ in a previous video) is to retain any hardware that comes loose so it does not get ingested into the engine which could cause a major failure. Wikipedia also points out that it serves as a visual clue that the lock-wired bolt had been properly tightened/torqued ... after watching the video this is pointed out by Jay at about 07:50.
We use the "barrel roll" technique to cinch down the whole safety on our ch47s
Beautiful Video! I love this information, so interesting and skilled, exactly what id love to learn to do. but $$ is of a premium RIP
In Lockwire pt 1, we learn how to use every day tools to do a good job of lockwiring.
@@AgentJayZ Thank you so much! i should have watched this months ago!
Fascinating! I wonder if it is possible to lock wire a bolt that has no hole drilled for that purpose? Or is that a stupid question? Hummm?
To use wire, you can drill a hole in the bolt. There are other ways to lock a bolt mechanically, like lock tabs, lockwashers, or close fitting lock plates.
Thank you for reply. But doesn't drilling a hole in the head of the bolt inherently weaken it's structure if not done precisely?
Yes, but the head is not the weakest part of a bolt, so no problem.
Thanks again, I've always wanted to know how to do this properly in my various shop projects and sports car hobby and coming from a jet technician( a kin to rocket scientist!) I've finally got the how to videos to do it correctly. As a private pilot I also really appreciate the professionalism you demonstrate, thanks and keep up the great work.
Hey AgentJayZ what happened to Orenda Iroquois? Any news about that magnificent giant piece?
The cases have been assembled for display at our local air shows, and the incomplete inventory of internal parts are safely stored in their own armored location.
At Time 05:39 The Bleed Air Pipe has a very large Dent in it for the I assume the Intake Anti Ice is that acceptable ??? I have looked through the Various Airman Aid memoirs as to the Use of Wire locking, Locking wire and Safety Wire. In the British Royal Air Force, Tech School and other British notes on the subject Locking wire or Wire locking is exactly that a way of positively locking an item on a component Safety wire is Wire to stop something moving in case of Failure or to Indicate something has been operated The TFE 731 Engine uses a Bayonet Fitting for the Oil Dip Stick filler point it has to be "Safety Wired" after each refill to stop the stick coming out if the bayonet isn't engaged . Fire Bottles have Tell Tail wire and safety wire on the Operating handles to show if they have been operated. So Locking wire is what it Says on the Tin Locking
That is the cooling air supply for the center bearing. This engine does not have an anti-icing air system. The dent is manufactured into the part to allow for throttle linkage clearance.
The word "very" and "large" are subjective, and can lead to confusion.
@@AgentJayZ I agree however the if it were an Anti Ice or hot gas Pipe a Dent that size could cause some issues with Hot Spotting and Pressure differences I came across your VLOGs and took a look and being Trained as a Gas Turbines Tech in the RAF and also going on to Teach it in the both the Royal Saudi Air Force and in the British Army school of aviation it is nice to write to a fellow Engine man
If it was an elephant blimp, it might cause problems if it was pink.
It's not and it doesn't.
It's not a dent. It's the shape of the pipe.
The engineers made it that way.
Acceptable angle for lockwire? Like the one you did in this video, locking that bigger nut to a tab. That wire barely pulls to the direction it fastens. 90degree angle acceptable? 89 or 91 not because it pulls the nut anticlockwise and would loosen it.
Whoa! ... That's five minutes, dosetti, for overt and excessive pedantism.
@@AgentJayZ just tried to explain myself, I dont speak english very well.
Angle does not really matter. Sometimes you’ll have to fasten stuff like oil filters where the angle varies. All that matters is that it is tight and tied in a clockwise direction to prevent anticlockwise loosing. Hope this helps
at 16:11 mid screen directly below the philips screw there is a black dot about two bolt heads down. Is that the lockwire hole you are missing?
I will check tomorrow morning. If it is, I will be surprised. Stand by.
OK, it took me a few minutes to find the hole(s) you mentioned.. They are not lockwire holes, but are for drainage or pressure relief in blind bolt holes. If those holes had oil or other liquid in them, and bolts were installed, the hydraulic pressure caused by tightening up the bolt would crack the casting, and wreck the part.
@@AgentJayZ thanks for looking have a great weekend!
This guy doesn’t make mistakes how dare you
Lock wire most important thing
It only became safety wire when the OHS crowd got control of the vocabulary.
Great clip! Many thanks!
@15:20, there are two indententions visible on two separate pieces of tubing: the first is the tube that has the red sticker on it (top left), and the second is the second tube from the right of the screen. I'm not sure if I'm seeing it right or if it's simply not a big deal for those particular components. Any comments?
Yes, just below.
Thanks for uploading. Thumbs up!
There is an air tube with a bump on it, for example at 6:59. Is that a problem?
6:59... that's a dent. Not to worry.
6:54... that's not a dent. It's a clearance indentation so the fuel control linkage will get by.
Jay, a J3 Cub owner here and aspiring Lockwire installer. The Knipex 28 01 200 pliers have serrated jaws. Do you recommend smooth jaw for lockwire work or are serrated OK? Thanks!
For engine work, the serrated jaw pliers should not be used in auto twist between fasteners, because they leave nicks in the wire. When you see someone doing that, it's a clear sign that they either don't know, or don't care.
I use them as locking pliers on one strand, and duckbills on the other. Twist by hand, and it comes out well.
Smooth jaw pliers are OK to auto-twist between bolts, but are not as good a tool for bending and finishing the tail.
So I prefer the flat, serrated jaws, and don't use auto-twist.
I’m starting my A&P schooling in January for aviation maintenance. Do you have any tips on what to expect and how to get a head start?
Get the books now, and read ahead.
Stay off your phone while in class and in the hangar.
Old guys like me respond to respect, and they respond to disrespect.
There, that's three pieces of very good advice.
I wish you much success!
AgentJayZ wow that was quick lol. I actually just bought a powerplant textbook on amazon. I hope it will teach me some key elements of what I will learn in the next 2 years. Thank you much for the advice!
Happy for You and welcome aircrafs Word
I always thought the two terms were interchangeable and synonymous.
They are. I am responding to quite a few people who have admonished me for using the wrong term.
We can use "Safety Cable" also on aircraft... I still use lock wire more, easier to use most of the time...
there was some in the start of the video, he didn't point it out tho, would like to know why only one instance was used, there was probably a neat reason
Lockwire makes sense to me, I mean, a nut that prevents the fastener from getting loose is not called a safety nut... it's a locknut.
@rats arsed Wrong chucklehead:
"There are also other systems of fastener retention that do not rely on safety wire at all, such as lock washers, locknuts, jam nuts, thread-locking fluid, castellated nuts and cotter pins, all of which accomplish the same objective as safety wire, which is to prevent vibration or other forces from causing the undesired loosening of a mechanical fastener."
@rats arsed You really should watch this video again before talking about comprehension because Jay demonstrates that done right, safety wire does both, you don't lose it if it doesn't get loose. Almost any chucklehead can run safety wire and get your level of quality and not lose fasteners, but this video is about doing it right.
@rats arsed I have not commented on lock washers, do you comprehend what quotation marks are ?
@rats arsed "Safety wire is not some magic cure all." Again a claim that I have never made. If you want to have an argument with yourself find a mirror and let loose, lose the tension... you really don't need me.
when you lockwire the first big nut why didnt you go to the first small bolt then across to the next one instead of using the pipe clamp
I'm looking at a 1# roll of ...uhm...wire....302-304 .025".......National Standard Company...on the front of the container it says 'safety-wire'...on the top, where the wire comes out...it says 'lockwire'...
Political correct answer, how to safely wire using lockwire.
Thanks so much for helping us.
That's a lame, fence-sitting, cowardly description. Pick a side, don't just quiver in the middle...
Yea, I’m calling it “safetylock”
I see Polish flag on the wall i'm proud :) Thanks !!! BTW great channel
So usefull ! Thanks !
That looks OK
hello sir, Are WD-40 common in Flight Enginnering?