150 MILLIMETRE CAVITY TO MEET NEW BUILDING REGULATIONS
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- Опубліковано 4 вер 2024
- IN THIS WEEKS VIDEO
150 MILLIMETRE CAVITY TO MEET NEW BUILDING REGULATIONS WE ARE BACK ON THE FIBOLITE EXTENSION WITH THE 150 MM CAVITY.
WE SET OUT THE WINDOW OPENING AND GET ALL THE CUTS DONE THEN ALEX BUILDS THE OUTSIDE SKIN WHILE I START ON THE INTERNAL WALL.
ONCE AL IS DONE HE JOINS ME INSIDE TO COMPLETE THE BLOCKWORK INCLUDING .32 FULL FILL KNAUF CAVITY INSULATION AND 275 EXTRA LONG CAVITY TIE WIRES. WE ALSO SHOW US BEAM FILLING AND PATCHING AROUND THE ROOF SPAS..... ENJOY
#construction #extension #CAVITYWALLCONSTRUCTION
Business only contact
Email - kennedy.steven130@gmail.com
Instagram - @steve_and_alex_bricklaying
The problem with watching these videos is you start looking for things you never knew were even things before. My wife asked me why I was looking at the wall above the living room window so I just replied "looks like that is a steel lintel and its rusted, no weep vents, and I bet it doesn't have a cavity tray". She just shook her head and walked off. Could have been worse - another channel I like is the drain un-blockers from Liverpool ... at least I didn't have my head down a manhole
Now there would be a collab video…. Steve, Alex & the drain unblockers building a brick manhole….
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The sound of success😁👌
@Merseyrod are full of shit though, especially when they let the trainee drill the soil stack ;-p
Question, few years ago we has to put block against external wall with a roll of damp proof D.P.C, where the window or door opening so that you won't see insulation?
Going to be building house walls as thick as castles soon but with cavity. The trouble though the plot size will remain the same size and looks like a monster house from the outside but is so small on the inside you have to buy dolls house furniture 🤣🤣
Great work as always and really enjoy watching your videos 👍👍👍
Cheers Anthony 😆🧱👍🏽
That would be the situation if we carry on using brick and block, I'd like to see planning rules to allow more use of insulated SIPPS. It would means changing the external look of our new builds, not a bad idea.
@@JohnnyMotel99 I personally feel more builders need to learn how to build properly and not have to have their work snagged due to their shoddy workmanship
We are still using thousands of years old building techniques that is crafty, shoddy at times… when in real life with ICF systems you can make a far more insulated (almost zero draft or cold bridging, stronger walls, securer (almost impossible to smash through due to rebar and solid concrete walls), and faster to build. I’ve built a large building out of ICF and the materials were slightly more, but labour was far less, so it balanced out at the same if not less cost and was finished in 3 weeks.
What’s ICF ?
Lucky Customers to have you guys working on their projects - hope they appreciate your dedication to perfection. Hope the hips are bearing up Steve and that Al's health is doing OK, best wishes to you both.
Cheers Dave 😁🧱👍🏽
Er don’t know what lauded means 🙄
Sorry boys I'm a day late, I spent most of yesterday at the hospital absolutely sheering by the time I got home all there was time for was eating and then bed. I have just watched you video thoroughly enjoyed it nice to see you two building, Keep up the good work, best regards Ken
Thanks Ken, hope you’re ok pal 🧱👍🏽
Love the bit at 15:35. For those who remember....."Al, Al, Al" Made me smile.😅
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bricklaying is a real graft,well done for doing such a brilliant job,im a plasterer and i appreciate a good tradesman.
Cheers Michael 🤜🏽🤛🏽🧱👍🏽
Whenever I watch you work I am impressed with your dedication to quality
Thanks very much 🧱👍🏽
Another fantastic job 👍🏻
Ta Rob 🧱👍🏽🤜🏽🤛🏽
And yet another fine job. Great content and never mind the losers who just hate, you know what you are doing!
Thanks Paul 🤙🏾🤙🏾🧱👍🏽
Good placement of camera even the clothes line in the background had flashes of red!
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12 years ago i built a place in shropshire 200 mm cavity with 7 newton thermalites on the inside the 25mm glass units should have been treble glased to match the 200 insulation performance even in the depths of winter the house was warm a multi fuel burner ticking over no gas or oil bills well worth it .the only setback on small projects like this the customer looses 200mm from a small extension which is a fare bit
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Ahead of the curve
Last new build I built was 150mm cavity with 150mm Celcon internally.!!😳.. worlds gone mad.! Keep up the good work lads 👍
Glad I've hung up my trowel now, but do we really need the 150mm cavity, more new building regulations BS again, been better to reinvent a better insulating 100mm cavity batt..
Bonkers mate 🥵🥵🧱👍🏽
@@stuartandrews4344150mm of insulation in the cavity is good for efficiency. A better 100mm cavity product exists: Kingspan K106 (Thermal conductivity is 0.018 W/m·K) so nearly twice as effective as the Knauf cavity batt (0.032 W/m.K). It's there if you can afford it.😀
Double the price plus extra labour installing the stuff and taping and installing the frizbies 😒. Not a fan of Internal skin first 🧱👍🏽
@@SteveAndAlexBuild No, I can see that you’re not. It’s still good to see the pride you take in working outside in
Nice quality work and a very tidy work area 👍
Thanks pal 🧱👍🏽
That lad needs to get a watch. My gosh, how long it takes him to confirm the time. These modern kids I swear.
What’s a watch 🤨😂🧱👍🏽
Now You have a decent drill (120NM / 2000rpm) You can buy a mixing paddle and knock up your mix in a bucket like butter! When it goes off you can bring it back to life so easy. well worth it in the hot months.
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Great block work guys. Looks so amazing from where I were siting. Even the roof fitted perfectly. 😎🙃🖖👍
Cheers we like a nice bit if block work 😁🧱👍🏽
interesting video. I love watching builing contents.
Glad you enjoyed, thanks 🧱👍🏽
Cant understand why anyone would moan about having insulation. I went overboard with it when I refurbed my property 10 years ago but boy am I reaping the benefits now. Warm as toast in winter and fresh and cool in the summer with heating bills similar to a 3 bed semi in a 20 room country house.I will never forget waking up with ice on me when I was a kid and Im not having my kids experiencing that displeasure.
Nice one 👍🏽🧱
Class work fellas, a credit to you both.
Thanks Steve 🤜🏽🤛🏽🧱👍🏽
Great job Steve as always i would had window on big wall over looking garden feel dark no you just go from plans keep up great work 👍👍
It’s a toilet window Dave 🧱👍🏽
@@SteveAndAlexBuild ok great job as always look forward to nx video 👍👍
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Improving the U value of the envelope is a positive move
Should have been imposed years ago ✌🏼🏴
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I'm a 67 year old brickie . I remember when cavities were 2 inches (50 mm) 👍🏴
Me to John 😬🧱👍🏽
Bet your utility bills were small too, back then
@@LaughingGravy.01 You can believe this or not . I got married in 1978 and I was being paid £32 a day working for Birmingham's biggest subbie . We rented a bedsit with shared toilet and bathroom for £13 a week . After nearly a year there I took the landlord to the Rent Tribunal and got the rent REDUCED and FIXED for a 5 year period down to £3.50 a week ........ £3.50 a week and he had to pay me over £400 compensation . We left and bought our first house . GREAT DAYS INDEED . 👍🏴
@@LaughingGravy.01 Very small ...... And wages were very good . 👍🏴
Looking good guys ! I promise it will not get easier with all the regulations I bet more things are coming your ways .. first it’s insulation and eliminating or making cold bridges better , next up is airtight building and than you have to build passive homes ;)
Big changes and a lot to get our heads round 🤯🤯🧱👍🏽
Making houses warm and cheaper to heat isn’t a bad thing🤷🏻♂️
I look forward to everyone suffocating in ultra-high CO2 conditions without fresh airflow lol
Bit dark
Are you suggesting this is a bad thing?
Nice work I laughed when Steve reached for the level and it fell the wrong way So its not just me that does that :)
Every time 🙄😂🧱👍🏽
That is so me.....PERFECTION 100% or die!!
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love the idea you were not filming "with all the cutting and dust" whilst the client had washing out on the line drying
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Lovely deep window sills, at least
Always a plus 😁🧱👍🏽
I live in a 2004 build with 100mm full full cavity and uninstalled solid floor. We have electric only storage heaters and this last year is been very expensive to heat the flat. So I am happy to see larger cavities/more insulation on builds.
I was designing to that standard in the 1970s. We should be building to a 300 Rockwool full filled cavity with 450 Rockwool in the roof and a an airtightness of below 0.6 air changes per hour.
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@@kenneal8948 300 full fill, that is sounding like a passive house, which is good for the top end but it is about getting the bulk of houses up to European standard as a minimum. Current regs ask for 0.18W/m² for walls which is much better than the old 0.30W/m² of a a few year back. The UK has been a laggard its about time we got it sorted.
I am not even sure if 300mm cavity is a thing. Would they not just use PIR board in a 150mm cavity to provide the same U values.
We need to go for the top end now. There are 27 million inadequately insulated existing houses in the UK already without adding to them. It costs a fortune to further insulate a house, I've designed three renovations on 1970s houses to save 80% on their energy consumption and one of those cost £30k, but it only costs a couple of thousand extra to do the job properly in the first place.
There is not only the climate requirement but now also the security and fuel cost aspects as well.
If you are building with PIR boards you would need a 200 board to equal 300 of fibre or polystyrene.
I specify a 100 dense aggregate solid concrete block for the inner skin to give thermal mass to enable the use of night time cooling during the summer. When you are using that much insulation the use of a thermal block doesn't make much of a difference to the insulation value of the wall and the cheaper block also helps with the costs.
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was working in Belgium in 2008 and cavity was that big on houses, we used spiral rods instead of wall ties that are used in uk. layed inner leaf with rods spaced out. and then pushed rods through insulation
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Keep up the great work lads . Nice to see there are still properly built houses going up . Timber framed super insultaed firerisks that you can hear next door but 4 coughing in have become far too common, nice to see some still doing the job right
Thanks Daniel 🤙🏾🧱👍🏽
I look forward to your videos coming online :-) Stuck in front of a computer working its great to have these on next to me - something satisfying about watching a couple of professionals do a fantastic job and explain how its done... even though I am not in the trade I've learned a thing or two.
That’s great to hear Matt, thanks 🧱👍🏽🤙🏾
wow like legos. you make it look easy!
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You are very tidy workers.
Thanks Alex 🤜🏽🤛🏽🧱👍🏽
Thank you 😊 rhis brings back memories
Good ones I hope Colin 😁🧱👍🏽
We do 8 inch cmu block with 4 inches of mineral wool, low perm air barrier, 2 inch air gap, and masonry veneer. Which ends about 2 feet thick or 609 mm.
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that is thick insulation I bet the people will not hear anything out side when it is done keep well and safe thanks for the video
Definitely Eddie 😆🧱👍🏽
Neat job lads, very good
Cheers Chris 🧱👍🏽
Top job, great to see it finished with the roof on. Assume as well as improving insulatuon, thise cavernous cavities also help reduce the problem with insulation promoting damp transmission across the cavity? In this case however assume its probably having cement render on the outside so shouldn't be any issues for a few good years whilst that is all intact.
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Love that, chief!
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Isnt PIR (0.022 W/mk) about twice as good as rock wool (0.040W/mk) ? So your cavity could be 80 or 90 mm instead of 150mm?
Nope even with .32 it’s still 150 mm . You need ridiculously expensive pir boards to keep the 100 mm cavity 🧱👍🏽
Just a thought on this, the concrete blocks are not very good for insulation so you are relying on the 150mm wool.
Instead of the inner leaf, if it had a timber frame then you could still get 150mm of insulation between a 50 cavity and 100 in the timber frame.
Must have nicer neighbors than me to not be round when you were chopping the blocks on a sunday morning!
They aren’t concrete blocks 🧱👍🏽
Wish we used them blocks and insulation in Ireland. I woukd say a 4 solid woukd weight 4 of them blocks your using. As for the insulation for 100 or 150mm cavity its full fill soild insulation no room for error . Has to put in carefully or it push out your blockwork
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Excelente trabajo saludos 👌👍🧱⚒️👍
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I think building regs should revert back to 1879 … Proper slate roofs , floorboards , 9” skirting, beautiful timber windows and brickwork with style. Maximum 2 bedrooms and a box room.
Everyone would be much happier
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Sounds depressing .
You need at least 4 beds.
No box rooms. WTF?
From a family of 7.. brought up in a 3-bed semidetached house, including the miserable cold damp box room. As we progressed through our youth we morphed between the bedrooms. I recall my parents had the box room whilst my 2 sisters were in their teenage years. It didn’t seem like hardship then (we didn’t know any better)… but happy enough that era is over. Both my parents lived to 98.. despite (or maybe because of) their frugal lifestyle. 😃. I love watching this sh1t 👏👏
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I specced a secondary layer using superfoil basically standard breeze with insulation in then batten superfoil batten then plasterboard its 30 outside and 23 in the extension.
The air gap is the key the stuff is like space suit material piece of cake to put up highly recommended
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This is good work thumbs 👍 up
Thanks David 🧱👍🏽
I suspect we have passed the trade off point between sensible insulation for sound and thermal and water. To my mind air gaps and ventilation in a wet climate regardless of build type is essential. Too many properties are a fungal death trap with all the sealing up. I built my house decades ago using traditional methods and double thick inner skin. No damp, cheap to run and warm even though some walls 20ft long are glazed. Horses for courses but netzero is mad. As an old long retired scientist I will not see the end and it is worrying, especially going down the timber route, as for plastics etc just remember where this stuff chemically comes from! Excellent videos chaps. God bless.
Cheers 🧱👍🏽
That's something that has caused me trouble in the past..... having insulation that is in contact with the inside and outside wall. Any damage or constant driven rain eventually penetrates the outside wall and the insulation soaks it up like a sponge and transfers the damp to the inner wall with the obvious results 😂
Never had that problem especially on rendered walls 🧱👍🏽
Shouldn't get that problem with rendered walls.
What about using foil back and sides kingspan types of materials?
you havent got a clue what youe talking about
@@LaughingGravy.01 more like you don't know what your talking about and especially on a post that's a year or so old 🔔🔚
Comes down to diminishing returns. The first 50mm insulation is the most beneficial/cost effective. It then starts to drop to the point of pointless.
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There is a lot of sense in insulating for example uninsulated 15-20mm heating pipes in a boiler room waste up to a 6-7€ per meter in heating costs with 15mm pipe insulation wastage drops to a roughly 1-2€ per meter and 1 m^2 of windows generally waste heat as much as 5-10m^2 of equivalent wall. Biggest savings however come from insulating your roof as the heat likes to rise up. In general it's recommended to have a roof insulation thickness x1,5-2,0 compared to wall insulation. Pay back time in saved energy costs from added insulation used to be 5-10 years but with the rise of energy costs it's likely even lower now as it is. Here in Finland a minimum wall insulation is currently 300mm's of rockwool or equivalent insulation and 500mm's for roof/attic space.
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Hi guys🖐As many of your other commenters have said, I'm using 90mm T&G PIR boards in my cavities, which is a little more expensive, but better thsn losing another 50mm of space, which is particularly important when doing extensions👊 (I didnt let the builders bricklayers fit it though😵💫) Cheers Del
I hate that stuff Del 🤢. I don’t like building the internal first . It’s more than double the price up here £25 per sheet 🥺🤯🧱👍🏽
@Bricklaying With Steve and Alex It's the same price down here Steve, but I just couldn't bear to loose 100 extra mm off my floors space😬I have made a good job fitting it, but it's not user friendly at all, and after the the first lift, it can get out and not join up nicely. Certainly not as user friendly as the wool stuff😶 I'll send you some pics👍
Oh crap... if Del has trouble keeping it tight and locked in, I've got no chance
@@SteveAndAlexBuild £25 per sheet there proper taking your eyes out !!
Nice one cheers Del 🤙🏾🤙🏾🧱👍🏽
lovely work as always, your customers are a lucky bunch , I hope they keep you well supplied with tea and biccies.. The insulation issue does seem a bit trying especially finding gear to fit and etc, but the flip side is much lower heating bills which is a biggie nowadays.
ATB from J&H Builders
Cheers John 🤜🏽🤛🏽🧱👍🏽
How you doing steve .
Had them cavities in wales a while now difficult to get lintels cavity closures etc to accommodate the cavity. I think its all a bit OTT now the cavity is now another room.
65 mm i think it was when i started.
Cracking job on a Sunday again .
Rest up take it easy steve mate 👍 🧱🧱👌
Cheers Justin, yeah the lintels etc are catching now, our local supplier Firwood even stocks 350 wide trench blocks now.
50 mm cav when i started mate 😫🧱👍🏽
Al in Sweden and we are in Drayton Manor spending some grandparent time 😍👍🏽🧱
@Bricklaying With Steve and Alex
I no trench blocks that size are hard to get .
Enjoy your time off Steve mate you deserve it you and Alex always put a shift in.
Enjoy mate 👍 👌
Cheers Justin 🧱👍🏽
Great stuff as always.
Might’ve missed it.. but does the footings need to be 50mm wider to account for the extra wall thickness?
Thanks Josh , yes pal 🧱👍🏽
It's utterly crazy using all-masonry construction when SIPS panels can provide better insulation and faster, easier construction. I was using 200mm PU-core panels in domestic construction design 15 years ago.
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when you have taken out a mortgage on a property , wouldn't you like it to look solid and last at least another 25 years after you paid the last payment
@benwilliams1172 👌🏼👍🏽🧱
On an extension I've just started new regs. B/c are letting me keep 100mm cavity but use 50mm insulated plasterboard to build instead.
We could do that but it works out more expensive and labour intensive . We did that on one last year plus your walls still end up 350 mm wide 🧱👍🏽
It’s simple, just built with timber frame and insulate between the studs. That’s how most the developed world builds and the vast majority of this country. It’s done like that for this exact reason !
Timber frame isn’t used by the vast majority at all 🙄🧱👍🏽
They've been trying to bring in "industrialised building" since "Adam were a lad" and it's always proved problematic in the long run. I predict that in less than a generation we will be demolishing the timber frame buildings we're constructing now
Then again, I have this theory that the Government are trying to make housing a consumer product. That would mean, when it comes time to replace the kitchen, you'll knock down the whole house and rebuild. Good for the economy. Not so good for the punters pocket.
My house has no cavity insulation and its blinking freezing in the winter. I would love 150mmm insulated walls
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I still use 100mm cavities with 90mm Eurowall + (the t&g stuff), which complies with the current regs 👍
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Impressive how much two people did on a Sunday.
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Why was Alex holding that shaving brush in the outro? 😂🤣 just kidding, nice work again lads. 👏
That is a very expensive shaving brush 😆😆🧱👍🏽
Great video... Im looking to get a small extension just purely for an area to sit and eat at a dinning table.. planning a rough layout in my garden but wanting to know the depth from the exterior wall to the inside wall?
350 mm 👍🏽🧱
@@SteveAndAlexBuild
Thanks.
What size would you recommend for a dining table of 6 chairs and a table for a small extension?
Different regs for different areas, here we would have to cut in a vertical DPC where your blockwork meets the existing building.
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Its not diffrent Building regs you should be putting vertical DPC where blockwork meets the existing building on all extensions ?
@cai1356 . It is different regs and it varies from person to person who comes out to inspect 🧱👍🏽
The Building Regs dont change they are the same throughout the whole Country . Not only is it good practice it is sensible to do so due to moisture penetration for a start. always look at weak points in the design and challenge. All Building Control Inspectors should be picking this up I was one ! so should all good builders too.
The Building Regs dont change they are the same throughout the whole Country . Not only is it good practice it is sensible to do so due to moisture penetration for a start. always look at weak points in the design and challenge. All Building Control Inspectors should be picking this up I was one ! so should all good builders too.
Great job , we have poorly insulated housing in the Uk ..more insulation is better
Very true 🧱👍🏽
Nuts, the wider the gap, the weaker the wall.
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Great
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Good job. I have a question here is the us most exterior walls are framed with lumber the either sided or bricked on the exterior and plasterboard on the interior. All electrical plugs and switch wires are run in walls before plaster board and insulation are done. So my question is how is the electrical done on exterior walls.
It’s all clipped to the wall before the plaster board are put on 🧱👍🏽
I had an old building to renovate, the walls were rubble filled which meant the insulation had to be on the inside, what a revelation. Insulated plasterboards on the exterior walls, insulated stud walling, insulated rafters (sloping ceilings) Add to that sound boards & fire boards. It all added up to 2 really warm, quiet and cheap to heat 1 bedroom duplex flats. From my experience, I don't know why all homes are not insulated this way, why heat up interior breeze block walls, I was able to use 24kw boilers, which barley came on, even in winter.
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Have you calculated the saving and how long it will take to recoup the cost?
If you're insulating for comfort; OK!
Doing all that to "save" money? I'm not so sure. It would be an interesting calc'.
@@farrier2708 Ahh it was compulsory ! Couldn't have got planning without complying with building regs. Yes it was expensive in materials, I seem to remember 7 years ago it was £40 per 4 x 8 board, I fit everything myself then got a plasterer in. I reckon to have got professionals in, it would have cost 30 to 40 thousand ! Of course no one tells you this when they are pushing heat pumps !
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@@Nailnuke Ah! I was born into Architecture. My dad was an Architect and I was in the profession for 40+ years. In all that time, only very occasionally did I find that any change in regulations had to do with anything but creating jobs. The amount we have to pay for non-productive staff these days, just to administer regulations, is enormous.
Who has to pay for these people? The Client! While Government reap the benefit of tax revenues.
Well! That's this old blokes rant for today. Thank God I don't have to work for a living any more. 😎👍
Hey, guys. Good job as always. Did you need cavity trays and weep vents for this one? As you didn’t show in the video. Cheers.
No Wayne it’s a flat roof 🧱👍🏽
@@SteveAndAlexBuild thanks for replying. My architect tells me those are needed always. However I’ve also seen people went without those like your case. So I’d like to know about your theory. What are the rules about it? Many thanks.
No cavities in mainland Europe. They use solid blocks with trapped air providing much better insulation properties.
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most new houses in Ireland have a 200 mm cavity
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You can still use 100mm cavity we use 90mm t&g rigid insulation bats. The problem you will find is you can’t get window boards wide enough for the inside
I’ve just built an extension with 90mm t&g. Regs are based on U-value calcs, to meet the requirement you either need 150mm rock wool or 90mm PIR. Going to PIR added a bit of cost, but easier to get lintels/cavity closers etc.
It’s all in the way 🧱👍🏽
@@ehamster don’t forget you need to tape that pir and be bang on with your cavity cleanliness if you’re going the pir route. Absolutely no chance of that happening on most sites, or getting the tape to stick to wet/dusty boards. Full full is easier and completely idiot proof.
Definitely 🤙🏾🧱👍🏽
@@dorsetengineering I use Eurowall + T&G which solves this problem, I used to tape k106 but Kingspan have told me theres never been a BBA Cert issued for this method so BC wouldnt accept it, the t&g aspect acts as a vcl as BC have told me, this was the issue BC had with using non t&g insulation, its not the thermal propertys as 90mm Eurowall + and k106 both achieve 0.018 in a 100mm cavity👍
Subscribed 👍 great job lads. May I ask...if you had a freezing house and then built a 2025 regs extension, how much benefit would be given to the old part? Possibly EWI on some walls connecting to the extension. Obviously what you saved on heating the new could be instead put into the old.
Thanks Christian . It’s a massive grey area 😬🧱👍🏽
Nice work guys, out of curiosity. Won't the insulation act as a route for damp to bypass the damp course onto the bricks above? Or does the insulation start above ground level?
Insulation starts at dpc and water doesn’t travel up mineral wool cavity batts 🧱👍🏽
The reveals are bad enough in my extension with 100mm and dot and dab. I have to catch a taxi to open my windows as it is
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hi gents is there a reason why you only do 1 skin at a time n not both at same time cheers looked brill
Much easier 🧱👍🏽
Because its hard to reach across if the inner leaf is up and not gone off.. so just back it up afrer
Hi Steve and Alex. Some great videos of your work. Where are you guys from and what is your working radius?
Hi Neil thanks, we are in south west Lancashire but don’t travel far . 🧱👍🏽
@Bricklaying With Steve and Alex ok that's a shame keep up the good work
I’d be doing brick veneer construction like in Australia. Steel or timber frame with insulation. Plasterboard on internal wall. We have extremes in temperature. 🦘
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Would you believe we are doing 200mm cavity in Ireland for pumped insulation
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call me old fashioned but I would rather reduce the cavity to 50mm and put the insulation on the internal face using insulated plasterboard. That way there is less chance of water or rodents damaging the insulation, and you can put the wall up faster and leave the insulating for when the property is watertight. Also means the cavity can be properly ventilated and, you know, do the job of a cavity wall.
Also means when future requirements for insulation increase, you can tear down the insulated plasterboard and put better insulated plasterboard in place. Hopefully without taking up any more habitable space. Whereas replacing insulation in the cavity wall is a lot harder.
I’ve never seen 100 mm insulated plaster boards 🧱👍🏽
@SteveAndAlexBuild the building regs require U values not width. So a 50mm insulated plasterboard might have the same U value as 100mm of rockwool insulation. Would need to check out the values.
Anything over 50mm is a nightmare when needing to use fixings, e.g. radiator hangers
No it doesn’t 🧱👍🏽
@SteveAndAlexBuild remember that approved documents are just guidance and the legislation says reasonable considerations should be made to reduce heat loss in dwellings. The future homes standards states that new builds need to produce 70% less carbon in their operation. Neither of those documents states a minimum width of insulation. There may be other reasons to avoid internal insulated plasterboard, such as the length of screws needed to fix things to the wall.
The other problem with these 150 insulation u after use a 250mm stax bolt to put a tv up in conservatories but tv mount kits come with 50mm bolts
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Its great having all of this insulation for the winter, in the the summer, on a day with no breeze, your front room becomes an oven.
30°c outsude equates to 38° indoor temperatures!
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😂😂😂 Insulation insulates. It's slows down the movement of heat energy from lower temperature to higher temperature. In the summer it's cooler inside, unless the heating is on .
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We do 100mm cavity with 50 insulated plasterboards on our extensions same u value
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At 14:15 He just flicks the excess mortar behind him without looking. It lands perfectly on the mix. *nods with approval*
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Pleasure to see neat blockwork - I wonder what the regs. are on block specs.
Given that they have upped the cavity insulation requirement, how much attention has been given to inner and outer leaf properties.
Seems like an opportunity missed not to specify a higher insulating material for the building structure as well.
It’s all accounted for 🧱👍🏽
Should you not be using thermal blocks on the inner leaf? Also you can still use a 100mm cavity with the insulation to match so I understand.
90mm interlocking PIR with residual 10mm
Simply Red ! Living in a box 😂
Er simply Red never sang that . It was by Living in a box 📦 😉🧱👍🏽
@@SteveAndAlexBuild sometimes I’m a bit of a numpty 😒.. not to worry, maybe tomorrow I’ll have a better day ,, enjoyed your vid 👍
I’ve been told by my architect that I can use 90mm Recticil Euro insulation board and this will satisfy regs instead of needing 150mm of insulation. Any thoughts on that?
Yes that’s fine but it’s ridiculously hard to build with a 10 mm gap plus we don’t like building internal walls first 😑🧱👍🏽
Genuine question why have 150mm cavity and then fill it with Rockwool which in my mind retains water if it was to get in also not be able to dry out because there is no open cavity to allow air to flow and breath
It’s not rockwool
Fibreglass cavity batts don’t retain water 🧱👍🏽
It's was 75mm last time I was on the trowel thought that was plenty.
It’s mental 🤯🧱👍🏽
Fantastic. Put some good windows in there and a well insulated roof and you could heat that room with a candle. Which is what you'll need to do now that natural gas will be unavailable going forward.
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Could of taken the washing in before the cuts😮
They were told 🧱👍🏽
You aren't supposed to bend the wall ties, it voids the warranty and potentially reduces the performance. You could have reduced the 150mm insulation by using PIR/PUR as you are building less than 18m in height. Mineral wool is less thermally efficient but I understand why you are using it post Grenfell. That said, you are a bloomin' good brickie and I would be happy with the work.
Thanks pal 😁🧱👍🏽
I once did 18cm thick isolation.... that were some long wall ties. I can tell you that.😂
Mmmm toastie 😁🧱👍🏽
I think there have been various reports raising possible cancer concerns from breathing in the fibres. There are lots of reports of the insulation soaking up water and becoming more of a hindrance to insulation than a help.
Both completely false 🧱👍🏽
Just looked a esco house to build 300mm cavity ooh
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❤Milwaukee❤️
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Great video. How do you ensure that the cavity width is maintained as you build up? So that you don’t end up with a larger or smaller width in different areas?
It’s all about preparation. You make sure your external wall is plumb then you can measure your internal of it for speed 🧱👍🏽
how does water not leech from the external skin to the internal leaf? Is the insulation completely water proof?
Water doesn’t get through the outer skin in the first place 🧱👍🏽
Here in Ireland there is a high risk of water penetration using that full fill system (unless it is a certified bead). As a brickie myself I have seen water travel through on ties and damp spots evident internally . An external plaster with water proofer isn't a guarantee either. While moisture might not get through entirely I have seen insulations become damp and disintergrate in the cavity. Your climate must be drier than ours? Just a though mate@@SteveAndAlexBuild
I think it’s good to have large cavities tbh
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Seen that, three nests in the cavity of the store room of a restaurant revealed when it was being reconstructed. Boy was I glad I never ate there!
Pushed in ties 😲
Nope
@@SteveAndAlexBuild 7:38