salute from France very interesting video as always I followed your advice, and I threw water from the stretching (smile) blend essence and hp ultra of sthil ) Some machines now runs with aspen 2 , and others with sp 95 gasoline plus preservative additive and 2t husqvarna xp oil at 45/1 merry Christmas to you and your family and friends
Onto the next one. 🤘🏻 always a good feeling when you figure it out. Dropped the 500 at the dealer yesterday. Hopefully they find a fault code or something. I was reading somewhere that once the 500 gets so far out of wack with the fuel trims it will not adjust back and you have to do a calibration with the mdg1. So hopefully that’s the case. Because when it came to me it was blown up with a bad crank seal on the pto side. I thought it always sounded lean on the top end rev.
Good point about calibration. I can't remember saying that it has to be hooked up do run a recalibration. I don't know why this saw can't be done in the field like all the others. Hopefully it gets sorted out.
Mine will go full blast (throttle locked at full) for 6-10mins. It will then hesitate (rpm starts to fall/bog). If you get off the throttle for just a second and back to full throttle it recovers immediately. Haven't bothered looking into it, but guess I should check valve lash before the next 50 tanks. Good video!
I thought my valves may have been out also. I did check them as part of this process and the rockers were slightly rattling between my fingertips. I figured they weren't too far off, but when I threw a gauge in there, the gap was waaayyy wider than their .10 mm limit. I had to run those locking nuts down a bit to get within specification. Valve lash had nothing to do with this bogging situation every minute or so of run time. My 800X ran so poorly during the last five minutes of run time that it sputtered out and quit.
Do you think the HP Ultra oil does a better job in the Stihl 4-mix? My understanding was that a 4-mix is usually run harder, and runs hotter than a conventional 2-stroke.
Had that isue on a Husky Brushcutter, it was the carb too. In the Meshfilter of the Carb there were Fines almost transparent . They swell up and stopped the Flow. They were barely to see with my jung Eyes. Would be nice to now it that Carb fails in Leakdown or if there is some Faillure to diagnose on it.
Pressure testing carbs with primer (purge) bulbs won't reveal a bad check valve. When you cycle the purge bulb it will sound gurgaly in the throat of the carb when it's bad or going bad. That's a pretty good in the field test.
@@richardflagg3084 you mean the gurgal of a bad checkvalve in the main Jet noosle? Thats a fault on a lot of solo 651 Carbs i have here. Problem i think is the directmount of the Carb to the cylinder giving vibrations to the carb. You can block the line to the Primer and press vac test the Carb i think.
This is why I’m very happy with my br600… could’ve bought the 800… but I never buy a new model anything for about 3 years or so I let others be the guinea pig
I think you may just solved my problem with my 800. I threw it back in the shed after experiencing these exact symptoms started, figuring for sure I had a bad coil. Since I also have a 580 that I haven't used in a while, I figured I'd run that while I contemplate a coil purchase. Question: No carb rebuild kit available? What exactly is the issue in the carb?
Hey, I have a FS 110 that works the opposite of this. On start up is runs but not able to get any amount of rpms out of it. Acts like the choke is on or plugged exhaust. I needed to tidy up at a job and had to fumble along with it or pull grass by hand. To my surprise after 10 min it woke up and worked perfectly. So now I start it ahead of time to warm up. Once it's warm it's fine. Great machine. I kind think the decompression may not be disengaging until it is hot. Any experience with this happening?
Great video, I own a Stihl BR800 C-EZ and am having the same problem with mine. It's been in and out of the repair shop for the past 10 months. They have replaced everything, a new carperator, ignition coil, spark plug, fuel filter, tank vent, and adjusted the valves, We tried hi octane gas. His Stihl rep told him to replace the block because they did have an issue with some of them, so he did. and after all of this it runs for about 20 hard minutes and it starts doing the same thing again it's in the shop now . My warranty has expired and he is still trying to figure it out. Is the one you put the new carb on still tunning strong?
Any carb with a purge bulb is more likely to fail in my opinion because it has to have a check valve. Take that with a grain of salt because all carbs can develop issues over time. Most traditional carbs can be rebuilt. These carbs are damn near identical to the BR600 carb and those lasted until they didn't (1.5-5 years).
It's about the same. Lol! The parts are more expensive tho. Purge (most call them primer) bulbs that cycle fuel are great in aiding easier starting, but these style carbs are prone to check valve failure, which are unserviceable. Carbs for the BR600/700 used to be about $55. They are now $100ish and I don't see any difference, well besides the price.
I have been a real dummy and put Aspen 4 (thinking this was 4 stroke, but it’s 4-MIX and 2 stroke) in my newly bought (second hand, but it’s 2021 model) br800c. Ironically in a bid to use better fuel to look after the engine. It ran fine for an hour. Then a week later I realised my mistake, drained the tank and replaced with Aspen 2. In now starts with a lot of effort, runs ok, but then dies when idling. Then will not start up again. Can any one please give me any advice, have I ruined the engine or is there a remedy for my stupidity?? Thank you very much to anyone who can offer any advice
Unfortunately the lack of lubrication may have caused permanent damage. This will be an expensive repair, possibly cost prohibitive. A short block from Stihl is around $350ish. Or get lucky enough to find a donor blower that has had exterior damage and still has a good engine.
Damn. Not what I wanted to hear but thank you for taking the time to reply. The fact that it starts up after a break and seems to run fine and full power for 15+ minutes until I then let it idle gave me some hope. Could you explain why this is? I.e it runs ok but then dies and won’t restart ?
Watch out for Exhaust/Muffler Failures next to the mounting bolts on cylinder head, they break then send hot exhaust gasses into the fan blower housing and melt the blower fan like a candle, in the last year I have repaired 6 of these BR 800’s with this same issue.
I bought the BR- 800X new in 2019 and it would not run correctly and the dealer made adjustments on the carb. It would not stay consistent and the dealer was going to send it back to sthil. I took it to another dealer who fixed it by replacing the carb. and that corrected the problem. It's been fine for over 4 yrs now. The main thing is storing the unit properly is important. I run tru - fuel into the system for 10 minutes and that keeps it protected.
Hey Richard would I be ok running Echo red armor in my BR800 I just seen a vide on Terrel fixes all. On a BR600 which had a bad piston on a bronze bushing. He was saying it probably better to use the Stihl ultra in the 4-mixes. What’s your take.
Nope. In this case the check valve was failing. It is not a serviceable part as it is pressed in at the factory. Typical for most carbs with a purge bulb.
@@richardflagg3084 Wow, I don't like that. It's definitely something to be aware of when looking for new equipment. I like the idea of things that are rebuildable.
@@pyromedichd1 me too … but unfortunately companies don’t like you workin on your own stuff…and the epa also forces them to make certain things “non adjustable” or whatever…but basically it’s all about a disposable culture and just buy a new one… it’s sad because I grew up with my dad saying “we need to rebuild whatever or fix whatever”… not “we need to buy a new whatever”… growing up my dad then later myself was the plumber,electrician,mechanic,etc…and I’m so glad I had the up bringing I had… because it saves me a lot of money…but it’s a curse as well…because guess who gets called whenever someone has an issue lollll
@@tjlovesrachel We're on the same page, same kind of upbringing as well. Fortunately I don't have one of those carbs on any of my equipment and I'll avoid them if I can. That said, since the carb would be junk anyway, if I had one fail I have a small machine shop in my basement. I'd have to see if I could take it apart, drill out places where jets or screws are clean, repair and make plugs to fill holes afterwards. Depending upon how the carb was built I might even try making needles to adjust mixture. another option would be to try retrofitting a different carb. Some aftermarket carbs are available pretty inexpensively and they work well on equipment I've previously replaced the original carb on. Gotta try, it's the nature of the beast.
@@tjlovesrachel I am the same exact way and I can’t stand the new cheap crap where you can’t rebuild it. There’s no reason you can’t have a $10 diaphragm rebuild kit and get that carb up and running again.
@@snoopfurlow1275 I agree, but they have crappy warranties. They only have like one year and then if you buy oil sometimes they give you two years, but I think echos like five years. From what I can see these 600 700 and 800 all piles of crap sadly I really liked mine but now I’m having an issue bogging down every time it gets hot.
this guy right here......will never buy anything stihl NOTHING. taryl has a schweeet vid on a stihl blower.......realllly nice. redmax.....beat it-run it--feed it---she comes for more.
I had the same problem today on a well cared for low hrs be 800x, I bought last year, then I found your video, thank you!
Rich nice info, shows your years of experience.
salute from France
very interesting video as always
I followed your advice, and I threw water from the stretching (smile) blend essence and hp ultra of sthil )
Some machines now runs with aspen 2 , and others with sp 95 gasoline plus preservative additive and 2t husqvarna xp oil at 45/1
merry Christmas to you and your family and friends
My first guess would've been tank vent then coil then carb. Nice save and great tips👍🏻 thanks for sharing!
Ouch on the oem carb price!
Thanks! Silly $$ for a carb born to fail..... That "double your warranty" may come in handy for a lot of folks.
Onto the next one. 🤘🏻 always a good feeling when you figure it out. Dropped the 500 at the dealer yesterday. Hopefully they find a fault code or something. I was reading somewhere that once the 500 gets so far out of wack with the fuel trims it will not adjust back and you have to do a calibration with the mdg1. So hopefully that’s the case. Because when it came to me it was blown up with a bad crank seal on the pto side. I thought it always sounded lean on the top end rev.
Good point about calibration. I can't remember saying that it has to be hooked up do run a recalibration. I don't know why this saw can't be done in the field like all the others. Hopefully it gets sorted out.
@@richardflagg3084 I agree I wish it could have been done in the field. I’ll keep you posted!
Thank, more videos.
Mine will go full blast (throttle locked at full) for 6-10mins. It will then hesitate (rpm starts to fall/bog). If you get off the throttle for just a second and back to full throttle it recovers immediately. Haven't bothered looking into it, but guess I should check valve lash before the next 50 tanks. Good video!
I thought my valves may have been out also. I did check them as part of this process and the rockers were slightly rattling between my fingertips. I figured they weren't too far off, but when I threw a gauge in there, the gap was waaayyy wider than their .10 mm limit. I had to run those locking nuts down a bit to get within specification. Valve lash had nothing to do with this bogging situation every minute or so of run time. My 800X ran so poorly during the last five minutes of run time that it sputtered out and quit.
Do you think the HP Ultra oil does a better job in the Stihl 4-mix? My understanding was that a 4-mix is usually run harder, and runs hotter than a conventional 2-stroke.
Had that isue on a Husky Brushcutter, it was the carb too.
In the Meshfilter of the Carb there were Fines almost transparent .
They swell up and stopped the Flow.
They were barely to see with my jung Eyes.
Would be nice to now it that Carb fails in Leakdown or if there is some Faillure to diagnose on it.
Pressure testing carbs with primer (purge) bulbs won't reveal a bad check valve. When you cycle the purge bulb it will sound gurgaly in the throat of the carb when it's bad or going bad. That's a pretty good in the field test.
@@richardflagg3084 you mean the gurgal of a bad checkvalve in the main Jet noosle? Thats a fault on a lot of solo 651 Carbs i have here. Problem i think is the directmount of the Carb to the cylinder giving vibrations to the carb. You can block the line to the Primer and press vac test the Carb i think.
@@Witschor Thanks! I'll try that
This is why I’m very happy with my br600… could’ve bought the 800… but I never buy a new model anything for about 3 years or so I let others be the guinea pig
I think you may just solved my problem with my 800. I threw it back in the shed after experiencing these exact symptoms started, figuring for sure I had a bad coil. Since I also have a 580 that I haven't used in a while, I figured I'd run that while I contemplate a coil purchase. Question: No carb rebuild kit available? What exactly is the issue in the carb?
It may have trash in it or check the muffler screen,or coil
Hey, I have a FS 110 that works the opposite of this. On start up is runs but not able to get any amount of rpms out of it. Acts like the choke is on or plugged exhaust. I needed to tidy up at a job and had to fumble along with it or pull grass by hand. To my surprise after 10 min it woke up and worked perfectly. So now I start it ahead of time to warm up. Once it's warm it's fine. Great machine. I kind think the decompression may not be disengaging until it is hot. Any experience with this happening?
Mine is doing the same thing right now. After 10 minutes it bogs down and wants to stall. Only at full throttle. I have br 600
Still seems a bit low on RPM.
Great video, I own a Stihl BR800 C-EZ and am having the same problem with mine. It's been in and out of the repair shop for the past 10 months. They have replaced everything, a new carperator, ignition coil, spark plug, fuel filter, tank vent, and adjusted the valves, We tried hi octane gas. His Stihl rep told him to replace the block because they did have an issue with some of them, so he did. and after all of this it runs for about 20 hard minutes and it starts doing the same thing again it's in the shop now . My warranty has expired and he is still trying to figure it out. Is the one you put the new carb on still tunning strong?
Damn I hate to hear that. The 800 has not been back. I'll reach out to Bradley and ask.
My BR800 just started experiencing this. 1 month outside of warranty and probably less than 40 hrs of homeowner use. So disappointing
Ooofff
You are not allown, read my comment.
Do you have any idea what is going on with the carburetor on these units?
Any carb with a purge bulb is more likely to fail in my opinion because it has to have a check valve. Take that with a grain of salt because all carbs can develop issues over time. Most traditional carbs can be rebuilt. These carbs are damn near identical to the BR600 carb and those lasted until they didn't (1.5-5 years).
@@richardflagg3084 my br600 carb has lasted for 10 years now. My km131r however didn’t.
Fuel filter l had 2 do that 😜 and 3 had bad carburetors. Watch out for fuel treatments Stihl products don't like them take care 👍
Rich every 800 I've worked on this year has been carburetor problems.
The more I work on them and hear online that seems to be the case. Damn shame
Is quality control going down the shitter or is it just me?
It's about the same. Lol! The parts are more expensive tho. Purge (most call them primer) bulbs that cycle fuel are great in aiding easier starting, but these style carbs are prone to check valve failure, which are unserviceable. Carbs for the BR600/700 used to be about $55. They are now $100ish and I don't see any difference, well besides the price.
I have been a real dummy and put Aspen 4 (thinking this was 4 stroke, but it’s 4-MIX and 2 stroke) in my newly bought (second hand, but it’s 2021 model) br800c. Ironically in a bid to use better fuel to look after the engine. It ran fine for an hour. Then a week later I realised my mistake, drained the tank and replaced with Aspen 2. In now starts with a lot of effort, runs ok, but then dies when idling. Then will not start up again.
Can any one please give me any advice, have I ruined the engine or is there a remedy for my stupidity?? Thank you very much to anyone who can offer any advice
Unfortunately the lack of lubrication may have caused permanent damage. This will be an expensive repair, possibly cost prohibitive. A short block from Stihl is around $350ish. Or get lucky enough to find a donor blower that has had exterior damage and still has a good engine.
Damn. Not what I wanted to hear but thank you for taking the time to reply. The fact that it starts up after a break and seems to run fine and full power for 15+ minutes until I then let it idle gave me some hope. Could you explain why this is? I.e it runs ok but then dies and won’t restart ?
Watch out for Exhaust/Muffler Failures next to the mounting bolts on cylinder head, they break then send hot exhaust gasses into the fan blower housing and melt the blower fan like a candle, in the last year I have repaired 6 of these BR 800’s with this same issue.
Geeezzzzz
@@richardflagg3084 see here another example of melted blower fans due to muffler failures:
ua-cam.com/video/X0qz2hS7aLQ/v-deo.html
I bought the BR- 800X new in 2019 and it would not run correctly and the dealer made adjustments on the carb. It would not stay consistent and the dealer was going to send it back to sthil. I took it to another dealer who fixed it by replacing the carb. and that corrected the problem. It's been fine for over 4 yrs now. The main thing is storing the unit properly is important. I run tru - fuel into the system for 10 minutes and that keeps it protected.
Take apart the carburetor to find out what happened?
Most likely a failing check valve. It is an unserviceable part of the carb. It's pressed in at the factory.
Still sound a hair unstable at WOT to you? Could just be the audio quality, but not so sure it's completely happy yet.
May have been the audio. My phone will make adjustments for the racket. Muffler pionted toward the phone. Sounded steady in person.
@@richardflagg3084 10-4
Hey Richard would I be ok running Echo red armor in my BR800 I just seen a vide on Terrel fixes all. On a BR600 which had a bad piston on a bronze bushing. He was saying it probably better to use the Stihl ultra in the 4-mixes. What’s your take.
ua-cam.com/video/UFNzL0_UbH8/v-deo.html
Also I wonder how far I am from you. I know your in S.C. I live in north G.A. In a little town called Blairsville.
Are those carbs not rebuildable?
Nope. In this case the check valve was failing. It is not a serviceable part as it is pressed in at the factory. Typical for most carbs with a purge bulb.
@@richardflagg3084 Wow, I don't like that. It's definitely something to be aware of when looking for new equipment. I like the idea of things that are rebuildable.
@@pyromedichd1 me too … but unfortunately companies don’t like you workin on your own stuff…and the epa also forces them to make certain things “non adjustable” or whatever…but basically it’s all about a disposable culture and just buy a new one… it’s sad because I grew up with my dad saying “we need to rebuild whatever or fix whatever”… not “we need to buy a new whatever”… growing up my dad then later myself was the plumber,electrician,mechanic,etc…and I’m so glad I had the up bringing I had… because it saves me a lot of money…but it’s a curse as well…because guess who gets called whenever someone has an issue lollll
@@tjlovesrachel We're on the same page, same kind of upbringing as well. Fortunately I don't have one of those carbs on any of my equipment and I'll avoid them if I can. That said, since the carb would be junk anyway, if I had one fail I have a small machine shop in my basement. I'd have to see if I could take it apart, drill out places where jets or screws are clean, repair and make plugs to fill holes afterwards. Depending upon how the carb was built I might even try making needles to adjust mixture. another option would be to try retrofitting a different carb. Some aftermarket carbs are available pretty inexpensively and they work well on equipment I've previously replaced the original carb on. Gotta try, it's the nature of the beast.
@@tjlovesrachel I am the same exact way and I can’t stand the new cheap crap where you can’t rebuild it. There’s no reason you can’t have a $10 diaphragm rebuild kit and get that carb up and running again.
Bull shit! Why do I have to do this with a blower a spent $700 on.
I would took that shit back it back,they would service it under warranty!
@@snoopfurlow1275 I agree, but they have crappy warranties. They only have like one year and then if you buy oil sometimes they give you two years, but I think echos like five years. From what I can see these 600 700 and 800 all piles of crap sadly I really liked mine but now I’m having an issue bogging down every time it gets hot.
this guy right here......will never buy anything stihl
NOTHING.
taryl has a schweeet vid on a stihl blower.......realllly nice.
redmax.....beat it-run it--feed it---she comes for more.