HOWTO: Change oil *the right way* on a Yamaha TR-1 Waverunner engine (VX, EX, Deluxe, Sport, Etc)
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- Опубліковано 1 лип 2024
- I've heard a ton of stories about how awful these engines are to maintain. I'm here to dispel those stories!
Everything you need is listed in the description below:
One group of people claimed the correct way to change oil on a TR1 was to remove the oil filter and start the engine until oil stops being pumped out into the hull...
Besides the whole running your bearings dry, that would make a horrible mess in your hull, which would end up in the water wherever you ride eventually. NO THANKS!
Other people have claimed that you can only change 1/2 the oil at a time. While that was true of the older MR1 engines, the TR1 has a means of draining nearly every drop of oil.
If you follow this guide, you can change your oil in a matter of about 15 minutes with absolutely zero mess.
I use a Wix 57356XP oil filter, this filter uses synthetic media rather than the more conventional paper media, and also uses a high quality silicone antidrainback valve, in my mind it is by far the best filter for your VX, EX, or any machine powered by the TR1 engine, or the MR1 engine, it will not fit the 1.8L HO engines, I do have the Wix XP number available for those engines as well if needed.
Key points in video:
0:00 Introduction
0:10 What you need
1:24 Puncture oil filter & Reason for doing so
2:10 Remove sump drain hose
2:45 2 points we will extract oil from
3:30 Watch the oil zoom up that hose, That Jabsco extractor pump is a beast!
4:40 Remove filter
5:40 No mess in the hull because we punched the hole
6:30 Reassembly
7:33 Pour 1qt into valve cover plug
8:00 Add 2qt to oil tank
8:43 Start, run for 15-30 seconds then check and top up oil to full mark
What you need:
➡Oil change pump: amzn.to/3j1TnKy
➡Oil Filter: amzn.to/34wYgXV
➡OEM oil filter: amzn.to/3L23fDd
➡Oil: amzn.to/3j7MeIE (Synthetic option: amzn.to/43fwWJ8)
➡Funnel: amzn.to/32rh88i
➡Strap wrench: amzn.to/3j91ncB
➡Screwdriver: amzn.to/2EeZpsC
➡Pliers: amzn.to/3hqrrj8
➡Oil dry pads: amzn.to/32kg2uS (These absorb oil but not water)
➡Alternative oil extractor pump: amzn.to/3ld20Uu (I used to use this style, they work great but are slower than the Jabsco one linked above)
(These links may be affiliate links, which earn me a small commission at no additional cost to you if you choose to purchase from them) - Авто та транспорт
What you need:
Oil change pump: amzn.to/3j1TnKy
Oil Filter: amzn.to/34wYgXV
OEM oil filter: amzn.to/3L23fDd
Oil: amzn.to/3j7MeIE (Synthetic option: amzn.to/43fwWJ8)
Funnel: amzn.to/32rh88i
Strap wrench: amzn.to/3j91ncB
Screwdriver: amzn.to/2EeZpsC
Pliers: amzn.to/3hqrrj8
Oil dry pads: amzn.to/32kg2uS (These absorb oil but not water)
Alternative oil pump: amzn.to/3ld20Uu (I used to use this style, they work great but are slower than the Jabsco one)
(These links may be affiliate links, which earn me a small commission at no additional cost to you if you choose to purchase from them)
Thank you for making this video. I bought a 2023 Yamaha Jetblaster (an Ex with the TR1 HO engine). At 10 hours, I looked at the oil on the dip stick. It was the light brown color like honey. Then I changed the oil. I read what was written in the shop manual. I watched this video. I could only pump about 1 quart out of where the dip stick goes. Then, I could only pump about 1 quart of oil out of the oil extraction hose. A total of 56 oz. The oil was warm (I had run the engine to flush it out after using the ski... I changed the oil 1 hour later). The old that I removed was black, yet still plenty warm. I did not change the filter. I tested my pump and it is fine. It's a mystery. I had read in other posts that it is normal to only be able to pump between 2 and 2.5 quarts. I looked down the shaft that the dip stick goes and I could see some light brown oil. At this point, I felt that the only thing that I could do was to put 56 ounces of brand new oil in (half in the hole under the plug on top of the valve cover and 1/2 into the shaft that holds the dip stick). Then I ran it for 6 minutes with water attached. Then I checked the oil (while it was level). I find the dip stick to be very hard to read because it is yellow and the oil is light brown like honey, and very thin (it drips down the dip stick). I got my neighbor to verify and the we concluded that the oil level is up above the low line on the dipstick. It's about 1/3 of the way up between the low and high indicators of the dip stick. I figure I will change the oil again at 20 hours to see how much I get out. I used to own a Seadoo spark, and while I do not miss it, I could get all the oil out with the same pump. 1) Do you have any ideas as to why only 2 quarts came out? 2) Why was the oil down the dip stick light brown before I changed the oil, yet the oil that I pulled out was black?
The dipstick hole has a second little cavity that is a bit challenging to get into sometimes, it is straight down from the dipstick hole, very hard to see, if you straighten out your hose on your oil pump you can usually feel around a bit and hit it, but typically I get nearly 2 quarts from the oil tank where the dipstick is, and nearly 2 more from the sump drain hose I mention in here and is in the service manual.
I'm not sure what to say about the light brown oil turning to black, unless perhaps the brand of oil you are using doesn't have additives to suspend the contaminants and its settling to the bottom until its started and stirs everything up?
@@trythistv Thank you very much for responding. I think you are correct with respect to where the Oil Dip Stick goes. The hose that came with my pump has a large diameter and probably wasn't getting in there deep enough. That same hose could not fit into the Oil Extraction Hose, so I had to buy a smaller tube (that would fit into, and snake down the Oil Extraction Hose to the bottom). I will hit 20 hours, in a couple of weeks and I will try again. This time I will snake the new thinner hose down into the where the Oil Dip Stick goes... maybe I can get another quart out from there. I suppose that because I didn't change the oil filter, that there was a little oil still in the filter (only a little since its upside down). I feel like I did a good job getting the oil out through the Oil Extraction Hose though. It interesting that the owners manual says that you don't have to change the filter at 10 hours, I suppose that is because not much oil remains in it since its upside down.
Good video. I waterlogged our Waverunner and after 6 years am finally rebuilding. Excited to finally get it up and running again. Great video. Thanks!
Getting the water out fast is the best bet, after 6 years you've got a job ahead of you, but it'll be a fun project I'm sure!
I changed the oil on my 2019 Waverunner this morning and I am fairly certain that there was less oil spilled during the Exxon Valdez incident! I wish that I'd watched your video first, thanks for sharing, next time it will go smoother!
The first time I changed oil on a tr1 it was the same story. I used so many rags trying to clean up what looked like half a barrel of oil. I knew there had to be a better way.
Thanks so much for this video, it gave me the confidence to do this job myself and it saved me plenty of cash.
Glad it helped you out! Not a bad job all in all, a few little tricks make it not so messy and a more complete oil change, and you can use a higher quality filter as well!
Thank you! Great tip to puncture the filter and for sucking out of the crankcase line as well as the tank. Also the tip for adding to the valve cover
It saves a lot of mess by punching the filter, if you punch off on the edge you don't risk knocking loose the bypass valve.
Great video, I like the hole in the filter tip , Thank you
I'm not sure why nobody else does that, it makes the whole process so much cleaner, no oil slick in the hull!
@@trythistv It is a great idea. But not unique. This guy uses a nail. ua-cam.com/video/HaPSyjqsZU8/v-deo.html Your camera work is excellent.
AH! Very nice! I'm glad to see his videos, These skis are not that bad to maintain despite what some people have told me, and the little tips like the hole in the filter and the sump drain hose thing he mentions in his "advanced oil change" and I included in this video really make maintenance a breeze and very thorough.
His winter check video is also great, VERY in depth, checking the cooling inlet strainer and hoses is not a bad idea at all, you'd be surprised how many of the bilge siphon loops end up coming unglued from the hull fitting, dropping down into the bottom of the hull, and then filling the ski with water.
A quick visual check of a ski inside and out can save you a ruined day on the water and a painful repair bill.
Thanks for the compliment too, it can be tricky to get decent angles and have the video make sense without spending all day filming.
Great video. I learned something new which is punching a hole on the vertically mounted oil filter. Pretty cool I must say. And oh yeah, I remember it was messy when I first pulled the oil filter out during my first oil change on 2020 EXR. The next time around I always load up the oil filter with paper towel to catch the oil. For new DIY, remember the oil capacity for the EXR is 3.59 qrts or 3.4 L and other spec says 3.7L. You need to extract above 3.5 qrts. The deep stick hole will fit 1/4" OD siphon to get down to the bottom of the oil pan and maybe difficult to land the holy hole, but if you do, you will be able extract all the oil out. Using the crankcase hose will work too, but does not get all the way down to the bottom. I return the same amount of oil extracted and does not use the dipstick to meter the correct oil level. Right, wrong or indifferent, I am use to do oil changes with engine cold as long as I know how much oil is needed to be extracted. I see other videos running the jet ski for over 5 minutes to heat up the oil which is not recommended by the shop manual and recommends 2 minute run with hose connected to provide cooling. The jet pump is deprived of water lubrication and may cause premature wear?
Oops correction. Sump drain hose and not crankcase hose. There is no such thing as crankcase hose.
@@pumpkin971 I agree that a ski should not be run for extended periods on the hose, the pump is unloaded and the bearings aren't often designed to support everything.
I will warm skis up if I can put them in the water and ride them around in circles at idle (only a few minutes otherwise its too hot though)
The extra little hole down in the oil tank cavity where the dipstick is does prove challenging to hit, but getting all that oil out is nice. I still do get some out of the sump drain hose even if I have extracted everything possible from the oil tank.
Total is usually between 3.5 and 4 quarts per machine, so 3.59-3.7 sounds spot on to me.
When you punch the filter, don't go too deep, and double check you don't knock the bypass valve out, if you punch dead center you can knock it out, I typically punch them off on an edge of the top to avoid such a problem.
Excellent video, thank you!
Thanks sir. Great video, perfect advice.
Great video, thanks for posting this. I was only able to pull out 2.5L (not the 3.5L) with my manual hand pump and I replaced it with new oil. Is it bad that I left the remaining old oil (about 1L) mixed with the new oil? Will I have to redo the oil change or is it ok to run until the next oil change at about 100 hours? Thanks in advance!
There will always be some residual oil, I'm personally not a huge fan of the 100 hour interval that yamaha recommends, I feel like that is an awful lot of hours on an engine that spends a lot of time full throttle. I aim for about 50hrs on my personal machines and the rentals I service. With that being said, I don't think the small amount of residual oil you left in will be that detrimental as long as the level is correct.
After subscribing and watching a number of your videos, I see you are very familiar with the TR1 engine and repairs. Great job on videos. 👍
I have a question on a 2019 VX cruiser TR1 engine. While performing the routine maintenance check of the PTO drive coupler, the manual states to rock it back and forth to check for “rattling”. And if there is rattling to remove engine to check rubber love joy coupler. I have no movement between the two couplers and the rubber is tight. Engine alignment is spot on.
I do have slight movement while rotating/rocking the coupler/flywheel.
It is definitely on the engine side. There is no end play front to back and no up and down movement of the flywheel/coupler. Only rotational movement. I noticed in the parts and service literature the the crankshaft and oil pump drive is splined together inside the engine basically making the crankshaft 2 pieces on the aft end. Could this be where this movement is coming from?
And is this considered normal?
72 hours on engine. Driven by mature adults. No abuse. Only light duty cruising. Thanks.
The first thing I would say is how much movement are we talking about, is this just a minimal amount of play or a substantial rocking back and forth you have? The coupler is splined in if memory serves me, I've got a couple tr1s sitting in the shop, so I will double check tomorrow and see how much they rock back and forth, I would expect a little wiggle with a splined interface, but not much, just enough to where it doesn't feel like it's all welded together solid.
There may be some sort of spec or guideline, let me double check this stuff tomorrow and I'll report back to you!
Transfer case and oil holding cell they fill together I’m assuming sense you didn’t put oil back in there and you said you liked to add alittle oil to the pistons or something, is that necessary and how much oil should I expect to extract
Great video, clean and crisp. Thank you. When I removed my filter I didn't see this little part but when I tossed it into a bucket I noticed this piece appears to have fallen out of or was connected to the old filter. I'm not sure where it goes. It's a small round solid plastic disk (just a touch small than a dime) with a tapering plastic column coming up from the center (about 3/4" tall) with a small rectangle sitting on top of it. I'd attach a picture but I haven't seen a way to do this. Have you every seen this part? I can't imagine where it would go (or where it came from) but it definatly fell off or out of the old filter. I did end up tearing open the side of the filter a little when I removed it and its small enough to fit though the threaded filter hole. Its a brand new Waverunner so someone at the factory must have over torqued it. Thanks for any help you can offer.
I'd bet you its the antidrainback valve, or possibly the bypass valve from inside the filter. There are no parts anywhere shown on the diagram near the oil filter threads or anything that would fit into the filter, probably the tabs broke off and it dropped out from mangling the filter during removal, I've had some really stuck that ended up being crushed so bad there was filter media trying to escape by the time I got the filter off.
Do you recommend BG products like MOA in these motors? I run MOA and 44K in everything I drive. Was not sure about watercraft. Thank you for the detailed video.
I have not used them personally, I know project farm has done a lot of oil additive tests, and I haven't seen anything that jumped out at me as being worth the expense over just doing more frequent oil changes.
My personal PWC has 950ish hours on the original engine, I've run this oil and filter combo on it for as long as I've owned it, as well as the rental fleets I service have probably a combined 3 or 4 thousand hours using Rotella and a good quality Wix or OEM filter.
The only engine failures on those 10-15 machines have been due to water ingestion, generally the engine internals still look like new, connecting rods are bent/broken from the water, but the bearings are still in great shape
First of thanks for the info in this video I wish the yamaha owners manual explained this as well as this. I just have a couple questions I recently bought a new 22 superjet with this TR1 engine and was doing the 10 hour service after initial break in last night. Extracted the oil with a hand pump from the dipstick hole and everything, changed the filter, went to go add oil back in but it only seemed to take about 2 quarts and its reading full on the stick but when I got a little ways out on the lake afterwards I had a warning light come on and power reduced which I'm thinking is low oil pressure by the vague warning light description in the manual. Just wondering how many total quarts it's supposed to hold with a filter change and what I did wrong lol. Any help is much appreciated.
2 quarts sounds like you didn't get all the old oil out, or did not start it and re check after filling. Did you just drain the oil tank where the dipstick is, or did you also pull the sump drain hose and suck out of there (the section at 2:10 in the video covers the sump drain hose)
I usually see somewhere around 3.5 quarts, maybe 4 for a full oil change on every TR1 I've serviced in the past few years, some will depend on how much time you spend trying to get every last drop of oil out.
Thanks for the video! Is the tr1 motor good for a novice that works on his own toys? In the market for a family ski. Pretty reliable compared to SEADOO? I see you have rentals which is your preferred rental ski? Thanks
The big rentals I see are Hondas, which are my all time favorite, but they have been out of production for so long that getting parts is a challenge.
Then I see a lot of MR1 Yamahas, in the 09ish era, which I have no real complaints other than they need more frequent oil changes because there is no sump drain so you only change 1/2 the oil at a time.
The TR1s have come into rentals in a big way, the only problems I have seen so far is the jet pump bearings seem to fall apart around 500hrs, and if you ever submerge the ski (flip it over or such) there is a slightly more involved process to not destroy the engine getting the water out (I'm working on a video explaining that process, basically the intake needs to be sucked out with a oil extractor or some other pump that has a 1/4" hose)
I wouldn't hesitate for a minute on any one of those machines for a first ski, a Honda F12, Yamaha VX (MR1 or TR1), and I also like the 155hp Seadoo engines (1503/1499cc non supercharged) But I don't see many rental seadoos, so perhaps that is a telling sign they aren't as indestructible as the Hondas and Yamahas
Sea Doo and reliable are mutually exclusive terms.
I am taking ex deluxe out of garage for holiday weekend. Decided to store it myself last year rather than paying 400.00 to the place i had been storing her. I jad battery tender on all winter and also put the rv marine antifreeze last October. I noticed like a quarter of a quart of oil in the hull. Checked dip stick and it was dry! I hope nothing major is going on. It has like 40 hrs. Its a 2017
left to sit the oil may drain back into the crankcase rather than be in the oil tank where the dipstick is at. The hose that I pull off at 2:10 goes to the bottom of the crankcase, oil pan or whatever you want to call it. Stick your oil extractor or something down there and make sure there is oil in the crankcase, as long as there is a decent amount in there, I'd fire it up for 10 seconds or so and then check your dipstick, likely it has just drained back, and the residual oil found in the hull may be from changing oil and spilling a little bit.
Great tip punching a hole in d filter !
It significantly reduces the mess!
Great video. I have a black rubber stopper inside the oil filter on the engine, did you have that ? Is it that to keep oil in the filter when the engine is off ? Or should I remove it
I have never heard of a rubber stopper in a filter, is it possible the bypass valve came dislodged?
If you watch this video at around 1 minute in I show the bypass valve:
ua-cam.com/video/hWf9U0Bq0XQ/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared
@trythistv thanks so much yes the bypass valve must have fallen out, and I made the mistake of leaving it on top of the engine thinking it was meant to be there, causing oil light and drama, all sorted now. Thanks for your help 👍 🙂 🙏
Great video. Just changed my oil on my 2018 Deluxe ski following this video. When I took the oil filter off my it had a plastic piece on the engine where the threads are. What is this plastic piece for and which way does it go?
Thank you
If you've got an OEM yamaha filter, watch this short video, especially around 0:50 where I talk about the stamped steel plate and bypass valve: ua-cam.com/video/hWf9U0Bq0XQ/v-deo.html
Is it possible you punched the filter can and dislodged the bypass valve? I'm not aware of any plastic piece that is meant to be in there, so I would remove it before installing your new filter!
@@trythistv interesting. I did punch a hole but really not too deep. What’s interesting is that I did two waverunners today and both had the plastic piece inside the threads of where the oil filter screws onto. I’ll check the old filters to see if it’s still there. I truly appreciate the response.
You were correct. On both skis the plug from the original filter had been punched out with the screwdriver. Amazing. Next time I do an oil change I’ll offset the punch hole. Thank you so much.
Transfer case and oil holding cell they fill together I’m assuming sense you didn’t put oil back in there and you said you liked to add alittle oil to the pistons or something, is that necessary and how much oil should I expect to extract, and fill back into the skis
The engine sump (hose to extract from shown at 2:10) has a pump that pumps oil into the oil tank (where the dipstick goes) while the engine is running, and from there there is another pump (Technically all in one unit, but separate oil passages and separate gear pumps) that pumps the oil to the bearings and top end.
I have found that adding oil to just the oil tank via the dipstick hole will cause a lot of valvetrain clatter on first start for 5-10 seconds, while adding a quart to the filler hole on the valve cover (shown at 7:33) and the remaining oil added to the oil tank (8:00), start the engine, and top up oil as needed into the oil tank.
As far as oil amount, if you extract all the oil, it should take just under 4 quarts to fill it back to the full mark on the dipstick, somewhere around 3.5 quarts.
If you only extract from the oil tank, it will only take about 2 quarts. Thus why it is important to extract from the oil tank and the sump hose.
When punching a hole in the oil filter, is there any risk to dislodging the little oil drain back valve disk and have it fall back in the engine?
Thx for video.
In theory it might be possible, but it would only drop into the cavity where the filter sits, I don't see any way it could make it around any of the bends that the oil takes once its out of the filter unless you mangled it or it shattered or such, I've been doing oil changes like this since the TR1 engines were introduced in 2016 and haven't had an issue yet, probably a hundred or so oil changes on these motors since then and have maybe only had one anti-drainback valve come out of the filter, and it just set on top of the threads.
Great video. Anybody know how to remove a stuck oil filter?
There is rust at the bottom. The filter is buckling from the wrench.
I've crushed some filters badly when they are real stuck, you could try a razorblade or something at the very base to break the seal on the filter gasket, but I'm not sure if that will help at all.
I just bought two 2023 VX’s with this engine. I was really surprised when I read the manual on how to check the oil. They say do it while on water? The land directions say run it for 5-6 minutes but I thought that was too long to run it off a hose. I saw that you filled it up to the full mark in your video but won’t that be too much oil?
I always aim for the high side on a dipstick, worst case you lose a few HP, but since these are a dry sump style engine, that isn't even a issue, in my mind its just a safety net incase the engine burns a little oil, unless you overfill it so much that its blowing oil into the intake. I've found the pumps on the TR1 circulate the oil in about 20-30 seconds. We do a lot of oil changes on these, the main thing is it has to be level, then typically about 3.5qts of oil, 57356xp filter, and run it for 30 seconds to double check the oil level and its ready to go.
I was told that when you put the new oil in you should put ½ in the engine where the drain hose plugs in, and the other half in the engine at the dipstick area? I did not see you do that. Does it matter where you pour the oil? Thanks for another great video. Why using T4 instead of Yamalube? I use T4 in all my diesel engines, so I know it is a good oil but not sure about the Jetski engine
Pouring into the sump hose does the same thing as pouring into the plug on the valve cover that I do in this video, it is a good idea to do one or the other so nothing is dry starting up, a little in either the sump hose or valve cover and some in where the dipstick is at (dry sump tank).
I like the Rotella because it has very strong detergents and suspends dirt very well (needed for soot control on a diesel), and when you're extracting oil from the top, there is more potential for sludge to form and settle to the bottom.
Story time:
I have a 2005 Honda Aquatrax that was used as a rental for about 800hrs of runtime, I changed the oil frequently (about every 25hrs) with mobil 1 after buying it, and the oil always came out clean like new, I switched to rotella after reading good things about it for the dirt suspension and cleaning properties, The oil would turn black like diesel oil after less than an hour of runtime, but after 5 or 6 changes with rotella it began staying clean, the engine got smoother, and the machine gained 5mph of top speed, I can only assume it was from the rotella cleaning out the insides of the engine.
I've put about 100 hours on it since the rotella cleaning adventure, bringing it to just under 1000hrs total on the engine, still going strong!
I service several fleets of rental PWCs with exclusively rotella oil, the longest lasting machine made it to 2300hrs before a hydrolock bent a bunch of valves and it was retired.
I'd never hesitate to run rotella in anything (I run it in everything I have, gas and diesel)
Hope I didn't ramble on too bad and answered your questions!
Thank you@@trythistv, I appreciate the feedback!
In your description you stated that you do have the Wix XP filter number for the 1.8L HO.
Would you mind sharing?
Sure! The 1.8ho engine should take a 51348xp
I use Motorcraft FL910s on my 1.8L
How long did you run it before getting the final oil level? Just a few seconds dry? Thank you.
Probably around 15-30 seconds. Enough to make sure it circulates through the filter and everything.
Thanks a lot!!!
Which oil extraction pump do you use? I need one!!
This unit right here is the bomb: amzn.to/3Aoz31Z
It's probably 10 times the speed of any other extractor I've used. I can do oil changes in minutes. Saves tons of time on fleets of rentals and winterization season when we have full days of maintenance jobs.
Hello sir i just brought a vx deluxe tr1 ski but its not going fast its maximum rpm is 6400 how can i make it go little more faster
Is it brand new? Some of them limit the top speed and rpm until the breakin period (usually around 10-20hrs) is finished.
Other things I've seen or heard of is there is a limit or learner mode, as well as some having different drive modes or settings.
Failing the computerized answers, the accelerator position sensor (throttle lever) could be faulty, making the computer thing you're not commanding full throttle.
or the throttle body could be not opening all the way due to an electronic or mechanical issue.
What type of oil do you recommend? Full synthetic? How often do you recommend changing the oil?
I am a big, big fan of shell rotella oils for any boat or pwc engine. You may think "but that's a diesel oil", and you're correct. Rotella is rated for heavy duty and diesel, which the use case on boats and PWCs is pretty heavy duty in my mind. Lots of full throttle, lots of heavy load, very little cruising at 1/4 throttle or less like an automotive oil is designed to protect. Rotella t6 is a full synthetic, and would be excellent protection, generally speaking every 50hrs is the manufacturer recommended interval across the board, I end up changing mine more frequently with a cheaper rotella t4 which is conventional oil rather than synthetic, I usually run around 20-30 hours and it comes out fairly dirty but my ski is an ex rental with nearly 1000 hours so it's seen some stuff.
@@trythistv We use Rotella T6 on turbo Audis for the same reasons.
@@trythistv 1000 hours! That makes me feel good about the TR-1 wowwwww
Awesome video! Defiantly utilizing, Yamaha wants $400 for an oil change! Ha
On another note.... can you post a video or guide regarding the removal of old gas from the TR1 or cleaning the injectors. I am having a fuel problem........ engine sputtering but I want to make sure I do it correctly. Thank you!
I'll see what I can do! Fuel problems seem odd unless you've got some water in the fuel or such, Have you checked/changed spark plugs to see if one cylinder isn't firing well or if it's more random?
@@trythistv thank you! I don’t believe it’s water in the fuel. The fuel is about six months old so I’m thinking it’s stale. I’ve done injector cleaner in the fuel tank as well as fuel stabilizer. I am going to check the spark plugs as well now that you mention it!
@@trythistv Also the fuel was ethanol fuel which had sat in the tank. I live in Florida so we were prepping for a hurricane......... I always try to use non-ethanol fuel but had to in this case
@@BruceWayne-xl1zf definitely spark plugs
Whats the right way to fog a TR-1 motor? I have a 2021 VX cruiser. My manual say just remove the air cleaner, spay it in, then start the motor. If doesn’t mention about removing the spark plugs and spraying into them. Any help is appreciated. Thank you
So normally what I would do is open the intake, start the engine, and spray fogging oil into the intake while it is running, usually they will smoke and run rough for a second then stall out, but if it doesn't stall, shut it off after you've been spraying for 10 seconds or so, and keep spraying until the engine is completely stopped so that it doesn't just burn off the oil, the smoke is from the oil getting into the cylinders (which is what we want), if you want to be ultra complete, pull the plugs and spray a decent spritz down into the cylinders to ensure everything is coated, I rarely have customers that want their engines fogged, we're on a freshwater lake inland so far that corrosion isn't really a problem unless there has been water ingestion.
@@trythistv thank you
Why did you decide to put in T4 oil which says is for heavy duty Diesel engines? Just curious why you chose that over oil most people use in gasoline engines.
I'll give you the short story, and the long story in case you're curious.
Short version: rotella t4 has great anti wear additives for "heavy duty" applications, high heat, high load, hard work type situations, as well as having great particle suspension characteristics, so in boats and jetskis where you're generally running them very hard compared to a car where you cruise at 2-3000 rpm, boats and jetskis spend a lot of time really ripping, and you can't drain sludge off the bottom of the oil pan so you want the detergents to keep the dirt suspended so it comes out when you pump it out.
Long version:
I bought an ex rental pwc with just over 90p hours on it, and used Mobil 1 10w40 exclusively. Even after 50 hours it looked like brand new oil. Engine ran well, didn't use oil, I started reading and hearing about using diesel oils in gas engines and some of the benefits, so I decided to try it in my pwc. Next oil change I used rotella t4, and after 10 hours it was jet Black. I thought I had ruined my engine. Decided since it was destroyed I'd try more rotella. Changed it. 5 hours later and it was filthy again. Changed it. After about 4 changes with rotella the oil started looking cleaner, and interestingly the pwc was going 5 miles per hour faster. That was from the strong detergents and particle suspension capabilities cleaning the entire inside of the engine.
I also had an old Craftsman riding mower given to me that burned a gallon of oil every time we mowed the acre or so of lawn we have. When the smoke stopped, you better shut it off quick.
I switched to rotella in it, and halfway through the yard right after putting rotella in, the smoke stopped. I shut it off, grabbed a funnel and gallon of oil, pulled the dipstick and it was jet Black, but had only lost about a quart of oil. Was just at the add line instead of being dry as a bone. I topped it up, and we've been mowing with it for 9 years now, even swapped that motor onto a different mower when the deck rotted out on it.
It has consistently made everything I put it in run better in one way or another. It's not good in supermodern engines with catalytic converters and such, it will ruin cats, but anything else, it's better than anything else I've ever used.
Hope you enjoyed my story lol
Just changed spark plugs on my 2016 VX Deluxe. Discovered oil on the forward most coil stick and non firing portion of the spark plug. Comments as to reason? Potential problem?
2016 VX would be a 4 cyl "mr1" based engine? I've seen the valve cover gaskets get leaky with age and it'll seep oil into the spark plugs cavity. I would clean it all out, and pull the plugs after a few hours and see how bad it is. Might just be seeping through slowly. Since it's only on the side that's not in the cylinder you know it's not a sign of internal engine problems. Probably just a gasket, I wouldn't worry about it unless it's seems to be a fast leak or starts causing a misfire from the oil getting into the coil pack
@@trythistv Thanks so much for replying. The TR-1 engine is the three cylinder that Yamaha introduced in 2016. More horsepower, less size and all that. Yes the "firing side" of the spark plug was completely dry but as I said the coil pack stick was wet with oil. I'll clean out the oil from the spark plug tube and run it. I'll keep ya posted on what happens. Thanks again.
@@jsk36578 oh right my bad, for some reason I had mixed up what engine was in the 2016 vx models, the mr1 4 cyl platform was last in the 2015 vx, my bad there. I would still suspect a slow leak from a valve cover gasket or such since the firing side was dry. Let me know what you find out!
What do you think about measuring how much oil in total is sucked out then putting half of that in fresh oil in the top hole and the other half in the reservoir?
I know a lot of people like that method, and I can see some advantages to it as well.
For myself with the amount of machines I work on and the variety, it adds some extra time, and does not account for an engine that has been overfilled or underfilled by the last guy who worked on it.
@@trythistv Thanks for the reply. We changed the oil today on the Tr-1 engine and did it the way I described above. Before the oil change, NO OIL was showing on the dipstick, which was alarming because the week before, there was oil there. Anyway, we sucked out the oil from the reservoir and the crankcase via the tube. Pulled exactly 3qts out. We did 1.5qts in the top end and 1.5qts in the reservoir. After, the oil tank dipstick showed just slightly overfilled. It seems to be VERY tricky to get an accurate oil check on this thing and we're very worried about overfilling. What's your reccomention how the oil level should be checked? We've heard the Yamaha manual method is incorrect. Thanks for your advice!!
Is there a Fuel filter on a 2017 vx deluxe? If so where is it located? I just filled up at the marina and now my runner is hard to start.
Kind of. There is a filter sock type thing in the fuel tank attached to the electric fuel pump module, The pump assembly has to be removed from the tank for access to it, If I remember correctly there is one sock on the bottom of the module and another directly on the pump.
thank you
how long should you run the motor before you start to extract the oil?
If you've got water supply (either a garden hose in the flush fitting, or the machine is in a lake or body of water) then I would run it for 2 or 3 minutes, just enough to warm the oil up decently but not get it scorching hot where it'll melt your extractor.
Hi, which is the wix filter that fit for the yamaha vx ho (1.8LHOengine)?
The 1.8L HO engine takes a Wix 51348XP, here is an amazon affiliate link in case you want to purchase it online I get a small commission, but your local auto parts may be cheaper though!: amzn.to/3ivwONw
trythistv thanks! Ill go with the amazon link.💪🏻👍🏻
Just subbed.
By mistake, I put the oil inside the engine hole. Will that cause any damages to the engine?
Help!
if you mean the cap on the valve cover shown at 7:35, no it will pump it into the reservoir at the back, the only issue would be it is much easier to overfill if you put it in the valve cover as it won't show anything on the dipstick.
Start it up, let it idle for 30 seconds or so, then check the dipstick and correct the oil level as needed
Hello: how does the wix xp oil filter you are recommending in the video compare to the Yamaha oem from the dealer? Thank you
I would say better in every way, it uses synthetic media rather than a paper element, so you get better filtration without any added restriction, a silicone anti drain back valve to ensure oil gets to critical parts as fast as possible, and wix has the best reputation of nearly any filter maker I've ever seen. I use wix xp filters on everything, including a fleet of 6 rental jetskis that collectively has had close to 2000hrs of runtime under my maintenance.
Thank you for your response and thanks for the great video. I just need clarification. I cannot find wix xp 57356xp listed anywhere for the Yamaha ex. Is this the correct filter for the tr1 engine? Thank again for all your help.
Yes, it isn't specifically listed anywhere for the TR1, but has the correct o-ring dimensions, thread size, and specs as far as pressure and everything, I spent way too much time researching filters a few years back to select the best filter for everything I own. it is taller than the OEM filter, which allows for more filter media, but is not a "direct fit" as a result as in some applications there may not be enough space, the TR1 waverunners have plenty of space so it fits perfectly fine, It also fits all Honda PWCs, as well as the MR1 yamahas (Does NOT fit the 1.8L HO engines though), and some kawasakis as well. I use it extensively as it is such a versatile filter, and does such an impressive job filtering and keeping my skis and customers skis running flawlessly for years now!
Thank you so much. I’ll switch over at my next oil change. Your time is greatly appreciated.
@@trythistv which is the wix filter that fit for the yamaha vx ho (1.8LHOengine)?
I've I have doing exactly the same procedure on my 2016 TR-1 since new. However, I can never pull out more than just over 2 quarts and the manual says 3.3 quart capacity. 2 quarts fills it back up as well. Any ideas?
Are you getting the hose all the way down into the sump drain hose and the nooks and crannies of the oil tank? sometimes the tank drain if I don't get the hose in super straight it feels like it bottoms out but there is actually another quart hiding below a little flange in the tank.
@@trythistv I think so, I tried several times to make sure and used a small line. I'll try again next time! I know there's another quart in there somewhere!
The engine must be tipped back about 45 degrees.
Legend
Much appreciated video, Can you please do a video of this procedure on a 1.8liter HO engine like in the FX?
Next time a 1.8 rolls into the shop I will try my very best to make a video on it!
The ATF when they see a hole in the top of the oil filter 👁👄👁
I'm probably on plenty of watchlists by now
Great video, but should the dipstick not be screwed fully in for checking the oil level. My 2021'S manual suggests that.
It should be, I do a quick dip and compensate for the length of threads because sometimes we need to do 8-10 oil changes in an hour or two when a rental fleet gets returned and before it's dark so they're ready to send out the next day, and saving even a fraction of time checking and confirming oil levels prevents me needing a flashlight to finish them all
@@trythistv Thank you, I will mark the dipstick with the length of the thread.
Hole in the filter "trick" seems like a surefire way to end up with the filter's drainback valve in your block.
Rags are cheaper than engines. Have a buddy who just found that out after using this method... Otherwise, enjoyed the video.
I mean if you really drive it home sure, You just need to pierce the can, typically there is at least 1/2 inch space between the can and anti bypass valve or end cap of the filter (Check out my playlist of filters cut apart: ua-cam.com/play/PLFxBeYBP-WdlXM5NU9HnEqZkJx0wJBmoY.html)
Just so people know. You are only supposed to fill the oil thru the valve cover. Never supposed to fill the tank.
As a note this is NOT what the service manual specifies. Page 3-5 of lit-18616-03-71 says to pour half the specified amount in the valve cover port and half into the oil tank.
Filling only one of these WILL run an oil pump dry, either the scavenge pump if you don't put oil on the valve cover port, or the main pressure pump if you don't put any into the oil tank port where the dipstick is, which is why you want to fill basically half and half as Yamaha specifies in the service manual and as I show in the video.
When you were checking the dipstick you didn't screw all the way in which screws the reading...Also it shouldn't be at Full when cold...about 3/4 of the way is perfect..
Good catch! That's a habit I've acquired from doing sometimes 5 oil changes a day all week, saves time to not screw the dipstick in, and as long as the oil level is about 1/2" below the full then you know threaded in it is at full.
The service manual says run engine (on hose, or in water) for 6 minutes at idle speed and then the level should be between the 2 marks on the dipstick, In that short of a timespan running I've not seen a lot of expansion.
In theory the oil level shouldn't matter at all on these because it is a dry-sump system, so long as there is some oil in the tank after running, everything is lubricated and unless it is overflowing it shouldn't affect performance like in a wet-sump system.
I know that is the case that with Hondas dry sump system as well as the older MR1 Yamahas, I suppose the TR1 is new enough I haven't gotten definitive proof of that though.
@@trythistv Oh I see, you already calculated the oil level by doing so many times in a day. I try to keep mine at 3/4 to Full after the warm up. On my Yamaha EX it says run for 3-5 minutes and I usually do 3 min. I don't think it gets enough water to justify 6 minutes of run time.
I don't know much about the Dry sump system, but I think it's best to be somewhere in the middle of Low and Full..with all machines. Thanks for responding!
I agree, I would rather see a little more oil than a little less, I've got 3 skis at the shop right now that will be getting the engines replaced, I know for a fact one failure was from oil starvation from the level being too low.
On the other hand though having it excessively high will severely hurt performance and could cause aeration of the oil which is a whole 'nother problem. I aim for 3/4 to dead on full after the engine is warmed up on all the rental fleets and personal skis that I service, it has worked well so far.
The dry sumps are super cool, I know the tr1 uses a form of dry sump but I'm not sure if it is a fully dry or only partial dry sump. I should look into it and make a video about how it works because it's super cool for reliability and performance too.
@@trythistv I just bought a Yamaha ex sport from a rental place..it has high hours over 400hrs but they say some can go 1000 hours with the right maintenance..that incredible miles for a PWC. Got it for $4500 bucks so I couldn't pass on it ; ) I did oil and put some Ceratec Liqui Moly, really great on coating high mileage motors and some Marine fuel cleaner it ran amazing today..
400hrs is just broke in! I've got a ex-rental honda with about 950hrs, and I've got a few that I maintain for rental places that are up near 1800 hours or above.
At some point I will imagine you will need to rebuild the jetpump, not terribly complicated, but the bearings will eventually degrade and sieze up, thankfully about the only thing that gets damaged is the bearings usually
Tell me my friend ; How many HR 's should one expect to be able to put on an engine of this kind . ?
I've seen a lot fail between 400 and 500hrs, but every one of them was due to water ingestion not being dealt with properly.
I have seen some pushing 600hrs with no seeming issues, The jet pump bearings will let go around 400hrs it seems, but that isn't a big expense, and the engines seem to last as long as you care for them and don't do things like fill the intake with water and then start the engine.
What is the wix part number for the TR1 engine?
TR1 will take a 57356XP (You can use the non XP filter also, I just prefer the superior filtration)
@@trythistv Thanks, so re watching the video and doing my 1st oil change on my 2018 (for me) today. Did you extract approximately 2 qts oil in this video? Just trying to determine what is realistic using a oil extractor.
@@legalsan3913 you'll get about 2 quarts from the oil tank where the yellow dipstick goes and another quart or two from the little hose that goes down to the sump. A tr1 usually takes somewhere right around 4 quarts if you extract from both of those points.
what kind of oil are you using
Shell Rotella, Sounds weird being designed as a diesel truck oil, but it suspends dirt and sludge far better than oils designed for gasoline engines, which is huge when you don't have a drain plug.
I typically use the T4 15w40 in my skis (and a lot of my other engines) but you can get T6 full synthetic as well if you want a really high end oil.
Is that the type of oil they take diesel oil
I've personally had phenomenal experiences using diesel oil in my personal machines, I've read so many oil analysis reports and researched, Rotella has some of the best additives for wear protection and film strength which is super important for longevity of an engine, especially one that spends a lot of time under a lot of load like a boat or PWC engine.
@@trythistv I agree
Punching a hole in the filter...
What happens when you knock a piece of metal into the oil system?
All it takes is a tiny piece of metal to f*ck up the whole engine.
Personally, I'd rather clean up a little oil than pull apart a motor to find a piece of metal that blew it up.
That's just me tho
Thanks for the video!
@8:53 - This is not as the Yamaha Engineers specified in the owners manual. For those looking to do the job right, read the owners manual, the 15-30sec is not what is prescribed, its 6 minutes idle (plus additional specification based on temp). Also he doesnt even take the dipstick reading correctly, owners manual says to twist in and take reading, not rest threads.
This is not the right way, just another dude with a go pro changing the oil the way he came up with.
I'll address your concerns in a numbered list:
#1: Sure, publication 18616-03-68 (Service manual) indeed states on page 3-4 to warm the engine up for 6 minutes, along with an additional 5 minutes if ambient temp is below 68F, however, in many cases I'm working on skis that may have water in the oil, so warming up isn't a great idea, besides the difference in final oil level if checked cold vs warm has been around 1/2 pint overfull in the few PWCs I've serviced, not nearly enough overfull to make any difference in performance or longevity (better a hair overfull than underfull, overfull doesn't spin bearings).
#2: Improper dipstick checking. yes. I did it "wrong", but I've also done several of these oil changes before, and know how long the threads are, so dipping it in and seeing it about 3/4 of an inch below full means its dead on the full mark when screwed in. Saves time when you're doing 10 or so oil changes in a single evening so the fleet is prepped to rent the next day.
#3: I neither own a gopro, nor intend on purchasing one anytime soon, however I have been running a successful marine repair business for the past 8 years, servicing 6 rental fleets of PWCS totalling approximately 40 PWCs, usually around 4-500 hours per year worth of service on each one along with hundreds of privately owned PWCs and boats, If you look at some of my other videos, such as the shop build, that isn't for storing my funko pop collection, its for me and my employees to service customers equipment, and we've outgrown it in just over a year, expect to see some videos soon on here about the heavy equipment I just purchased so we can level more of the property for extra storage.
#4 You are a free agent, change your oil however you wish, just be aware that I've rebuilt more of these engines in the past year than most people have ever seen in their life.
Bleed the oil dont use a pump. Amateur hour
I'm real confused what you mean. There is no drain plug on these so a pump is essential for extracting the used oil, and I've never heard of "bleeding oil" outside of bleeding the oil injection system on a 2 stroke.
Care to elaborate?