I like how straight forward this is. As someone who is looking into reloading 300 blackout this is pretty sweet. I’d love to cast my own lead and all that could be fun.
300blk, its got to be the most versatile rifle round ever , free brass, any 30 cal bullet, or scrap lead casted, pistol powder, or even black powder if need be. its got to be on any preppers list as a must have rifle or upper.
Great stuff! Loved the cameos from the old pot and the muffin pan. Those two items tell me you really know how to scrimp and save, just don’t let the wife see this video.
Pretty awesome info! It's nice that he shows the bare-bones cheapest way to do things so you can kind of pick and choose according to your budget of time and money which parts of the process are worth it to you. Keep it up!
If this guy would have added 10 seconds to the video with a quick presentation how well his bullets shoot, this would have been a 10 out of 10 video. Now I have to rate it 9.995 out of 10. Great stuff! Thanks for sharing.
This is pretty much what I'm already doing - remanufactured 223 range brass and my powder coated heavy cast lead bullets. I stocked up on powder and primers a long time ago, so I'm probably under six cents per round. I buy nice lead because as much as I like doing it all myself, I'm not that interested in running a lead smelting operation in the suburbs, but I save almost all of the penny from the HiTech coating. Powder coat is essentially free. I'm fairly sure that I'm shooting 300 BLK ammo that's cheaper than the cheapest bulk pack 22LR. I have a lot more trouble casting .223 bullets. I love shooting an AR in 300 BLK. Cheap. Fun. Awesome. Pick any three.
Fast forward to 2021, what was once 6c/round is now 18c/round. Not to minimize the info in the video. It's just that primers are hard to find now and people are paying a premium for them. Thanks for the video, sir!
Man, looking back at those prices is crazy. I didn't know Cabela's even carried S&B primers, I use to work there. I only ever seen CCI, Winchester, and Federal primers.
Free lead has become scarce, but if you consider your time to be valuable, I have two tips. 1: Just buy it at a scrap yard. At least one of the metal recyclers near you will probably sell lead for around 30 cents a pound. Moreover, you can get lucky and get Linotype or other hard alloy lead for that price. 2: Let all your friends know you are looking for lead. Repeatedly. Eventually, when they clear out grampa's garage and find some, they will think of you. Contractors who do roofing or plumbing tend to think of lead pipes, gaskets and sheeting as a hazardous nuisance that takes them an extra trip to get rid of. Your contractor friends might call you to haul away 300lbs of pretty much pure lead for free, in a format that melts extra easy. Finally, get either a lee lead tester, or look up the video I have on how to use art pencils to determine lead hardness. Consistent hardness is the key to good cast bullets.
I wish I could get free lead, but under $1/lb for unsorted wheel weights works out to only a couple cents per round for projectiles in the 200gr range.
go to a public range (BLM land type) during the work week in the morning and check the impact area. No need to even dig. Then youtube how to reclaim lead from fired bullets
Sir Lancealot go to the gas station and ask for tire weights......gas stations always have a bucket of old tire weights.They aren't allowed to toss them in garbage so they collect them and pay to dump them
hey could you go through and do a detailed tutorial on this? I would love to know how you go about the neccessary parts and materials that you need to do to get a bullet. I'm trying to get into the reloading game and I wanna get plink and shtf ammo.
I have to buy my lead, otherwise that’s pretty darn cheap! Last time I loaded ammo for six cents apiece was in the early two thousands. Primers were a penny a piece but I was competing and with larger charges so the powder put me there. Glad to see other enthusiasts that are money conscious (cheap) like me! Great video!
I just got recommended this and I was so confused how he was finding primers off-the-shelf at Cabelas. Made so much more sense when I realized this was 4 years ago.
Great video - fast, funny and informative! I was born without the patience for this type of activity, but I'd love to ask my wife, "Honey are you using the muffin pan today? I need to make some lead ingots." LOL.
This video is 7 years old as I write this, but this video is still relevant as 300 Blackout is more expensive than ever. Subsonic ammunition is around $80 a box of 20 in Australia, double USA prices, I have about 40 lbs of lead from roofing flashing and old sewage pipe (not looking forward to melting it) Time to buy a cheap reloading kit.
I've reloaded 220 subs using leatherhead bullets, seating this shape of bullet makes a big difference in whether they will go into battery, more so than the 220 SMK I use.
I have heard of people having issues with lead-cast 300 BLK subsonics, such as their gas rings becoming welded together with lead and poor accuracy. Have you had any issues shooting your own cast subs vs store-bought or reloading with copper-jacketed projectiles?
10 Cents a primer now. 100 bucks a K. Powder is around 30-35 bucks pound. Melting pot is 80 bucks that cutter and jig is around 60 bucks. Thrown in a bullet mold, 40.00 bucks and a bullet lube Sizer and dies you're looking at 250.00. That one round now cost over 465.00 bucks! You can find lots of this on Ebay used and save some money. I cast and reload all my stuff and have all this equipment.
I don’t know if you have the resources but I would love to see the projectile fired in slow motion from the muzzle. The reason being, I want to see if the coating actually stays on the projectile after it is fired and travels through the barrel and suppressor. Jacketed projectiles are a non issues but if the coating is scored as it travels, then the back pressure caused by the suppressor, or any gas system really, will just blow lead particles straight into your face. And I don’t really feel like wearing a respirator while I shoot.
Interesting choice of powder and primer. Never looked at H110, does it cycle subsonic without suppressor? And then the SP primers... Lets start with flame propagation. .300 internal cavity is pretty small so we are at least not trying to fill a massive cavity BUT, at 8 gr a load you still have a lot of gap inside your case for powder to slop around in. Do you find a lot of variance when you chrono? Then wall thickness. Are your primers bulging or pushing out? Hodgdons handy reloading center puts H110 at a smooth 32 900 PSI which should actually be pretty doable for an SPP. Have you tried loading these primers with a faster/higher pressure powder? I ask because we are struggling for primers at the moment and i happen to have a few hundred S&B SPP left in my pistol kit, if i can use them without risk that would be fantastic. Finally. Of the brass that i have available only a few dozen chinese 556 cases converted to 300 without out-of-spec issues at the neck. Are you finding a lot of failure to feed issues with converted brass? Not sure how much tolerance there is supposed to be in a 300 chamber here but even if it chambers the variance here is surely going to effect consistancy? This again will fall back to your chrono results with converted brass...
@@rossdonaghy1748 everything has a draw back. 300 blackout used power sooo efficiency, conpare the grains used vs a 44mag and notice how much more kinetic energy you have using h110 at same grain load. Night & day. Of course comes at the cost of needed ridiculous spin. More spin, more friction, more leading, more attention needed. That being said the trade offs are worth it.
Elijah, do you have any leads on some place for a hollow point mold? I've looked at NOE after seeing your video and couldnt find anything. Google search wasnt very helpful with anything thats actually sold either.
The follow up: How to make subsonic 300 BLK for 6 cents / rd in 2022. Step 1, build a time machine... I think with these methods you're looking at a bare minimum of about 17-18 cents / rd. Buying good economical bullets like Berry's I feel like I'm doing pretty good at about 50 cents / rd. With the 238 gr torpedoes from Missouri Bullet Company I can get it down to about 35 cents / rd.
That'd right guys, I cast my own 220gr bullets, so with today's primer cost between 10- 14 cents and powder I'm all in averaging $ 210- 240 per thousand. Still a hella lot better than over $1K per case for factory loaded ammo. Guys gotta have money to burn these days to afford to practice with factory ammo. Sure aint me lol.
Time is usually more valuable than materials. Would be a good idea to factor time to hunt down all this free stuff, gas, tools etc. What does that work out to? Just wondering.
So subsonic is based off a heavier and slower projectile correct? What about a load to make black tip loads into subsonic ammo? Would you even be able to do it? Id love to see a ballistics test of it For say a .300aac-blk & .308. I dont want to try it but its always made me wonder.
I purchase brass, powder, primers, and paid a lot for some top of the line high SD bullets, and even then I saved a bunch over the cost of store purchased ammo! If I shoot them and reload the brass, that makes the cost of brass 1/2 of what I paid, and brass that is shot subsonic should last a good long while.
I wonder if taking apart 223 Tula then dumping the powder then sizing a reloading is a viable option to make 1 time use cheap? Then using the bullets pulled to reload 223 cheap. Any thoughts?
Alright, Let me learn you some stuff here. Tula, as you should know is STEEL cased ammunition. Which, makes it a bitch to cut, and a bigger bitch to resize. Also MOST Steel cased Ammunition uses BERDAN primers. which means NO decapping pin or your resizing die. Doesnt make a lot of sense to use TULA. If you have an ar15, just save the brass each time you go to the range. i specifically have taken my spent/found brass with NATO headstamps (no caliber markings), and have it separated from my also separated .223 /5.56 brass. brass isnt that hard to come by and since its one of the most popular rounds its literally everywhere. Just dont ever reload steel cased ammo. even while it IS possible to do, I as well as many other reloaders advise against it. there are those who do it as a proof of concept but the work required for steel cased brass is just a pain.
Bite the bullet and buy a box of factory 125gn SuperSonics to verify your barrel and establish a baseline. The average AR only has to achieve 3 MOA, same as military requirement standards. From there, develop loads. Typically, more velocity means larger groups, and freebore jump can affect your groups. Try different seating depths. I can get 1.5 MOA from a 125 flat base, but only 3 MOA from most 150’s.
I usually shoot my 223 reloaded ammo until the neck cracks...do you think i can then just save those, cut to 300 blk length(which removes the cracked neck) and be ok to shoot? Or will they be too brittle by then?
What's the trick on seating the bullets without scuffing the paint? I reload poly-coated bullets for 38/357 and 45ACP and that works well with flared cases, but 300blk ain't flared out like straight wall cases.
Been reloading 300 blackout using the mini chop saw ever since. Great video man even years later. Primers, brass, cases are way more expensive now a days though 😄
Patrick Banks for the heavier subs, a 1/7 twist is preferable, and seems to be becoming more common in new barrels. I actually talk about that in my 300 Blackout FAQ video from a couple months ago.
I met a guy yesterday at Blain's Farm and Fleet who was complaining about the lack of 38 special ammo, and when I started to explain to him how inexpensive the reloading dies were and how little the brass, bullets, powder and primers would cost and how easy it is to reload 38 Special, he got upset because he didn't want to go through all the trouble of loading said ammo. That's a shame as its one of the simplest rounds to reload too. I also have a 38 S&W and that brass is expensive, so I buy 38 SPL and cut it down to make 38 S&W!
Could you make a list of everything you mentioned here. I recently just got into the 300 blackout game and have never reloaded but I'm learning that if if ever want to be able to do any kind of training with my 300 blackout sbr I'm going to have to learn to reload.
Yeah. Does not include the $1000's worth of stuff I have to reload, cast and powder coat, plus the time involved. I love reloading, but it doesn't really save money. It just allows more shooting.
As someone who wants to get more trigger time on my ARs & as someone who hasn’t reloaded before, but wants to get into it, this video is great. I have found some beginner kits for around $500, even on amazon. I would like to get 5.56, .300, and 9mm setup. I don’t mind paying for brass, though I think it can be had cheap at the range or even ebay. I hadn’t thought of molding my own bullets, that’s pretty awesome! Local tire shop would be a great source for the lead. So, yeah getting into this fresh, the first few boxes worth would be expensive, but then the price would average out pretty cheap after ~1000 rounds.
Too bad. That looks like a mold I would want to buy. Also, I had intended to compliment you on the consistency of your coating. I see a lot of people online doing rather crusty jobs of powder coat, and a proportional number of people talking down the accuracy potential of PC. It isn't hard to make uniform, if you cut out all the needless steps people work into the process.
20$/1000.....boy do I ever miss those days.
You need to rename the title "Making 300 Blk Subsonic for 6c a round...One-Handed!".
Great video. Love your channel.
Is it possible to buy some amo
No. It's a federal crime to make ammo for sale without a manufacturers license.
The whole point of Handloading is for you to make your own.
For a non-reloader, this is the most informative clip I have ever seen. Thank you!
I used to have a source for free lead, but the police won't let me cruise the Wal-Mart parking lot pulling wheel weights off parked cars any more.
Did you stop gnawing on them?
Lol
Junkyard!
Hit up plumbers, I throw more lead than you can imagine. I throw away about 200 pounds. I save some of course.
sometimes better to ask forgiveness than permission
This is a very very valuable video and your NO B.S. presentation seals the deal. Thumbs way up. Thanks.
ConnectTheDotsNOW I appreciate the feedback, thanks for watching!
Rolling Blackouts you're an American hero sir! Thank you very much. What kind of mold is that hollow ? Thank you!
This nearly made me cry. I miss the old days of cheap components.
Man you should be a door to door salesmen. I would buy.
Thanks for the great video. The no-BS/filler approach makes this video extremely watchable.
Cristobal Miedo Thanks for watching!
Great video. Love the no BS presentation and I seriously lol'd every time you went to the next step and just tossed things off screen
I like how straight forward this is. As someone who is looking into reloading 300 blackout this is pretty sweet. I’d love to cast my own lead and all that could be fun.
Had to leave a like for how well made the video is. All prepped before to make it quick straight to the point
That's the kind of videos i like watching! 5 minutes worth of info, no beating around the bush to get to one point!
300blk, its got to be the most versatile rifle round ever , free brass, any 30 cal bullet, or scrap lead casted, pistol powder, or even black powder if need be. its got to be on any preppers list as a must have rifle or upper.
Now that is how you do a video. Absolutely love your format.
Just think some places are selling 300 blk subs for around $2 each.
But that kind of ridiculousness is why I reload almost every caliber I shoot.
ComocosonoEWL not if you live in a commie state like CA
In Ukraine for example
Yeah buddy! That's how it's done!
Makräf
Great stuff! Loved the cameos from the old pot and the muffin pan. Those two items tell me you really know how to scrimp and save, just don’t let the wife see this video.
I don’t know if I have ever seen a UA-cam video straight to the point. I didn’t skip any part of this. Thank you sir.
Pretty awesome info! It's nice that he shows the bare-bones cheapest way to do things so you can kind of pick and choose according to your budget of time and money which parts of the process are worth it to you. Keep it up!
If this guy would have added 10 seconds to the video with a quick presentation how well his bullets shoot, this would have been a 10 out of 10 video. Now I have to rate it 9.995 out of 10. Great stuff! Thanks for sharing.
Yep
This is pretty much what I'm already doing - remanufactured 223 range brass and my powder coated heavy cast lead bullets. I stocked up on powder and primers a long time ago, so I'm probably under six cents per round. I buy nice lead because as much as I like doing it all myself, I'm not that interested in running a lead smelting operation in the suburbs, but I save almost all of the penny from the HiTech coating. Powder coat is essentially free. I'm fairly sure that I'm shooting 300 BLK ammo that's cheaper than the cheapest bulk pack 22LR. I have a lot more trouble casting .223 bullets. I love shooting an AR in 300 BLK. Cheap. Fun. Awesome. Pick any three.
Straight to the point with no bs 👍
Fast forward to 2021, what was once 6c/round is now 18c/round.
Not to minimize the info in the video. It's just that primers are hard to find now and people are paying a premium for them. Thanks for the video, sir!
Man, looking back at those prices is crazy. I didn't know Cabela's even carried S&B primers, I use to work there. I only ever seen CCI, Winchester, and Federal primers.
Can I haz free lead?
Great video.
Enjoyed your choice to "toss" stuff off camera when you were done with it.
Free lead has become scarce, but if you consider your time to be valuable, I have two tips. 1: Just buy it at a scrap yard. At least one of the metal recyclers near you will probably sell lead for around 30 cents a pound. Moreover, you can get lucky and get Linotype or other hard alloy lead for that price. 2: Let all your friends know you are looking for lead. Repeatedly. Eventually, when they clear out grampa's garage and find some, they will think of you. Contractors who do roofing or plumbing tend to think of lead pipes, gaskets and sheeting as a hazardous nuisance that takes them an extra trip to get rid of. Your contractor friends might call you to haul away 300lbs of pretty much pure lead for free, in a format that melts extra easy. Finally, get either a lee lead tester, or look up the video I have on how to use art pencils to determine lead hardness. Consistent hardness is the key to good cast bullets.
I wish I could get free lead, but under $1/lb for unsorted wheel weights works out to only a couple cents per round for projectiles in the 200gr range.
go to a public range (BLM land type) during the work week in the morning and check the impact area. No need to even dig. Then youtube how to reclaim lead from fired bullets
Sir Lancealot go to the gas station and ask for tire weights......gas stations always have a bucket of old tire weights.They aren't allowed to toss them in garbage so they collect them and pay to dump them
Excellent video! Facts, timing, entertaining...you nailed it. :)
+Jason Broom thank you sir!
hey could you go through and do a detailed tutorial on this? I would love to know how you go about the neccessary parts and materials that you need to do to get a bullet. I'm trying to get into the reloading game and I wanna get plink and shtf ammo.
Bro, best video I've seen on this. Thank you
To the point and very well done. IMHO other can learn much from your straight forward approach!!
I have to buy my lead, otherwise that’s pretty darn cheap! Last time I loaded ammo for six cents apiece was in the early two thousands. Primers were a penny a piece but I was competing and with larger charges so the powder put me there. Glad to see other enthusiasts that are money conscious (cheap) like me! Great video!
So glad I found this. I do the exact same thing. I tell these guys six cents a round with the right tools.
great, informative video. Being this concise is how all videos should be
Those costs are basically a pipe dream now.
I showed this video to my friend before we went to the range. Went home with a backpack full of his brass! This video worked perfectly;)
My engineer brain is firing trying to figure a way to automate this 🤣
2021 edition: Making 300Blk Subsonic for 60¢ a round
I just got recommended this and I was so confused how he was finding primers off-the-shelf at Cabelas. Made so much more sense when I realized this was 4 years ago.
Great video - fast, funny and informative! I was born without the patience for this type of activity, but I'd love to ask my wife, "Honey are you using the muffin pan today? I need to make some lead ingots." LOL.
This video is 7 years old as I write this, but this video is still relevant as 300 Blackout is more expensive than ever. Subsonic ammunition is around $80 a box of 20 in Australia, double USA prices, I have about 40 lbs of lead from roofing flashing and old sewage pipe (not looking forward to melting it)
Time to buy a cheap reloading kit.
But I have no friends.....
1000 cases are about $45 so that would be 10.5 cents a round for you
:(
@@Shadow0fd3ath24 Even cheaper if you reuse your brass.
@@Shadow0fd3ath24 You pay $45 for 1.000 empty .300 Blackout cases?! Holy crap that's cheap, around here we literally pay that much for only 100 cases.
Excellent video. No nonsense. Straight to business.
Hello, where can you buy a circular saw guide like yours in this video?
Best regards, Alex.
going over lead casting in college right now. This might honestly be something I provide my customers
I've reloaded 220 subs using leatherhead bullets, seating this shape of bullet makes a big difference in whether they will go into battery, more so than the 220 SMK I use.
I have heard of people having issues with lead-cast 300 BLK subsonics, such as their gas rings becoming welded together with lead and poor accuracy.
Have you had any issues shooting your own cast subs vs store-bought or reloading with copper-jacketed projectiles?
10 Cents a primer now. 100 bucks a K. Powder is around 30-35 bucks pound. Melting pot is 80 bucks that cutter and jig is around 60 bucks. Thrown in a bullet mold, 40.00 bucks and a bullet lube Sizer and dies you're looking at 250.00. That one round now cost over 465.00 bucks! You can find lots of this on Ebay used and save some money. I cast and reload all my stuff and have all this equipment.
its now 2024... oh boy the inflation in reloading components
too bad now in 2023 primers are 10 cents each , lead wheel weights are outlawed by many (most) states and powder is $40 a pound....
That was awesome. Makes me want to take up reloading. 👍
I don’t know if you have the resources but I would love to see the projectile fired in slow motion from the muzzle. The reason being, I want to see if the coating actually stays on the projectile after it is fired and travels through the barrel and suppressor. Jacketed projectiles are a non issues but if the coating is scored as it travels, then the back pressure caused by the suppressor, or any gas system really, will just blow lead particles straight into your face. And I don’t really feel like wearing a respirator while I shoot.
Interesting choice of powder and primer.
Never looked at H110, does it cycle subsonic without suppressor?
And then the SP primers... Lets start with flame propagation. .300 internal cavity is pretty small so we are at least not trying to fill a massive cavity BUT, at 8 gr a load you still have a lot of gap inside your case for powder to slop around in. Do you find a lot of variance when you chrono?
Then wall thickness. Are your primers bulging or pushing out? Hodgdons handy reloading center puts H110 at a smooth 32 900 PSI which should actually be pretty doable for an SPP. Have you tried loading these primers with a faster/higher pressure powder? I ask because we are struggling for primers at the moment and i happen to have a few hundred S&B SPP left in my pistol kit, if i can use them without risk that would be fantastic.
Finally. Of the brass that i have available only a few dozen chinese 556 cases converted to 300 without out-of-spec issues at the neck. Are you finding a lot of failure to feed issues with converted brass? Not sure how much tolerance there is supposed to be in a 300 chamber here but even if it chambers the variance here is surely going to effect consistancy? This again will fall back to your chrono results with converted brass...
I would just be careful with your barrel twist. Lead works poorly twisted
@@oscarbear7498 thanks. Good to know...
Mine's a 1/7 so i'll have to make a plan with coating. maybe even plate if it gives me too much grief.
@@rossdonaghy1748 everything has a draw back.
300 blackout used power sooo efficiency, conpare the grains used vs a 44mag and notice how much more kinetic energy you have using h110 at same grain load. Night & day.
Of course comes at the cost of needed ridiculous spin. More spin, more friction, more leading, more attention needed.
That being said the trade offs are worth it.
Great and very quick explanation sir 👍
Elijah, do you have any leads on some place for a hollow point mold? I've looked at NOE after seeing your video and couldnt find anything. Google search wasnt very helpful with anything thats actually sold either.
The follow up: How to make subsonic 300 BLK for 6 cents / rd in 2022. Step 1, build a time machine...
I think with these methods you're looking at a bare minimum of about 17-18 cents / rd. Buying good economical bullets like Berry's I feel like I'm doing pretty good at about 50 cents / rd. With the 238 gr torpedoes from Missouri Bullet Company I can get it down to about 35 cents / rd.
I can’t believe my 4227 just cost me $38+ for a pound.
That'd right guys, I cast my own 220gr bullets, so with today's primer cost between 10- 14 cents and powder I'm all in averaging $ 210- 240 per thousand. Still a hella lot better than over $1K per case for factory loaded ammo. Guys gotta have money to burn these days to afford to practice with factory ammo. Sure aint me lol.
Whats the ballpark cost of all the equipment?
If you get it all used, probably under 500 bucks I'd say.
Muchos deneros
Cries in 2024 prices for primers and powder....
Time is usually more valuable than materials. Would be a good idea to factor time to hunt down all this free stuff, gas, tools etc.
What does that work out to?
Just wondering.
LOL - Nice speed review. Hopefully this will get more people into reloading!
So subsonic is based off a heavier and slower projectile correct? What about a load to make black tip loads into subsonic ammo? Would you even be able to do it? Id love to see a ballistics test of it For say a .300aac-blk & .308.
I dont want to try it but its always made me wonder.
Wish you would show a detailed video of your pistol build
This is hilariously entertaining at 2x speed
4 years later....
If you're shooting supersonic does it need to be coated in anything?
What Jig is that, you are using to cut the 2.23 Bass down to .300 blk???
Is it still available???
Great video too!
Scott Mullen made by a guy named Mike Koeller. He's on Facebook in the 300 Blackout group.
I purchase brass, powder, primers, and paid a lot for some top of the line high SD bullets, and even then I saved a bunch over the cost of store purchased ammo!
If I shoot them and reload the brass, that makes the cost of brass 1/2 of what I paid, and brass that is shot subsonic should last a good long while.
Love this video.... You rock
I wonder if taking apart 223 Tula then dumping the powder then sizing a reloading is a viable option to make 1 time use cheap? Then using the bullets pulled to reload 223 cheap. Any thoughts?
Alright, Let me learn you some stuff here. Tula, as you should know is STEEL cased ammunition. Which, makes it a bitch to cut, and a bigger bitch to resize. Also MOST Steel cased Ammunition uses BERDAN primers. which means NO decapping pin or your resizing die. Doesnt make a lot of sense to use TULA. If you have an ar15, just save the brass each time you go to the range. i specifically have taken my spent/found brass with NATO headstamps (no caliber markings), and have it separated from my also separated .223 /5.56 brass. brass isnt that hard to come by and since its one of the most popular rounds its literally everywhere. Just dont ever reload steel cased ammo. even while it IS possible to do, I as well as many other reloaders advise against it. there are those who do it as a proof of concept but the work required for steel cased brass is just a pain.
I have more money than I have time. This takes such an excessive amount of time, I'll just use 300 brass and 30 cal bullets
Now update this video with today's prices.
If I am not shooting through a suppressor... can I shoot uncoated lead bullets?
What the equipment you need???
Do you have to powder coat it if you’re not using a suppressor?
What’s the model number for the bullet mold please.
What kind of accuracy do you get when shooting at 100 yards? I’m getting kinda poor accuracy with mine. Like 10 moa
Bite the bullet and buy a box of factory 125gn SuperSonics to verify your barrel and establish a baseline. The average AR only has to achieve 3 MOA, same as military requirement standards. From there, develop loads. Typically, more velocity means larger groups, and freebore jump can affect your groups. Try different seating depths. I can get 1.5 MOA from a 125 flat base, but only 3 MOA from most 150’s.
What is the effect on powder coated lead on the gas port? Any issues with it filling up with lead?
whats the product number for the NOE hollow point mold ?
Awesome video.
+Jordan Mason thanks man!
Pistol primers in a high pressure rifle round?
How much ammo were you able to make off that one piece of led?
1 lb of lead is 7000 gr. If you are making 220 gr then you would get 31 projectiles.
Done with that info, toss that outta here. Loved it
do you have any expended hollow point projectiles you can show?
Thanks... Great video.
I usually shoot my 223 reloaded ammo until the neck cracks...do you think i can then just save those, cut to 300 blk length(which removes the cracked neck) and be ok to shoot? Or will they be too brittle by then?
RockHumper no you're good, a lot of guys do that.
Outstanding!
What's the trick on seating the bullets without scuffing the paint? I reload poly-coated bullets for 38/357 and 45ACP and that works well with flared cases, but 300blk ain't flared out like straight wall cases.
Use an expander
What tool is that for cutting the 5.56 brass down before resizing?
Also a new sub, great video man. Straight to the point
NT87 USMC thanks, it's a Harbor Freight mini chop saw
Been reloading 300 blackout using the mini chop saw ever since. Great video man even years later. Primers, brass, cases are way more expensive now a days though 😄
What twist rate barrel do you use? My 1/8 twist 8.5" really hates heavy loads (key holes)
Patrick Banks for the heavier subs, a 1/7 twist is preferable, and seems to be becoming more common in new barrels. I actually talk about that in my 300 Blackout FAQ video from a couple months ago.
I met a guy yesterday at Blain's Farm and Fleet who was complaining about the lack of 38 special ammo, and when I started to explain to him how inexpensive the reloading dies were and how little the brass, bullets, powder and primers would cost and how easy it is to reload 38 Special, he got upset because he didn't want to go through all the trouble of loading said ammo.
That's a shame as its one of the simplest rounds to reload too.
I also have a 38 S&W and that brass is expensive, so I buy 38 SPL and cut it down to make 38 S&W!
Great video! Unfortunately it's very difficult to find free lead around Savannah :(
Which NOE mold is that?
Well done! Thank you!!
Could you make a list of everything you mentioned here. I recently just got into the 300 blackout game and have never reloaded but I'm learning that if if ever want to be able to do any kind of training with my 300 blackout sbr I'm going to have to learn to reload.
If I had one 300BO subsonic round for every "uhhhh" in this video...I would be sitting pretty these days
What size groups are you shooting?
Holly Mackerel! What a neat video. I already have the melting pot ... use it for Black Powder rounds.
Thanks!!
Are you using a gas check also?
I couldn't help but notice the Ahlman's price tag on the powder. That's a local gun shop for me, spent many hours out there.
It would be nice to compare lowest to highest range
6 cents per round, plus $700 in tools...
Yeah. Does not include the $1000's worth of stuff I have to reload, cast and powder coat, plus the time involved. I love reloading, but it doesn't really save money. It just allows more shooting.
Lead doesn’t melt itself and powder coat doesn’t dry on its own.
Agree, I think your estimation is correct but in my opinion it is well worth it if you shoot a lot.
As someone who wants to get more trigger time on my ARs & as someone who hasn’t reloaded before, but wants to get into it, this video is great. I have found some beginner kits for around $500, even on amazon. I would like to get 5.56, .300, and 9mm setup. I don’t mind paying for brass, though I think it can be had cheap at the range or even ebay. I hadn’t thought of molding my own bullets, that’s pretty awesome! Local tire shop would be a great source for the lead. So, yeah getting into this fresh, the first few boxes worth would be expensive, but then the price would average out pretty cheap after ~1000 rounds.
There’s also the independence aspect, don’t overlook that
What mold did you use for the bevel base design in red powder coat? Also, how many grains do they weigh?
GunFun ZS actually i believe that slug was store bought, i just grabbed it as an example.
Too bad. That looks like a mold I would want to buy. Also, I had intended to compliment you on the consistency of your coating. I see a lot of people online doing rather crusty jobs of powder coat, and a proportional number of people talking down the accuracy potential of PC. It isn't hard to make uniform, if you cut out all the needless steps people work into the process.
If shooting unsuppressed, does one have to still coat the bullet?
rich hunter not necessarily, no. A lot of guys avoid cast bullets in a gas operated gun, but it can be done.
Can be done under what circumstances? Do I have to worry about barrel/gas tube leading with subsonic speeds?
How much powder in each cartridge ??