whenever you use a heat gun on paint, if the paint is known to contain lead, or if it is not known but it might - MAKE SURE the heat gun does not have the capability to reach 1100 degrees because if it does (and some do) that is the temperature where lead becomes an aerosol and you will be effectively vaping lead.
Good info, appreciate that. Do these infrared tools get to that temperature to make lead vaporize? I was reading people recommend infrared for indoors but then I see it heats up and smokes the paint. And there’s other unwanted chemicals in old paint besides lead that is great to breath indoors
@@mick2spic I do not know the answer to that, however in the training for the EPA "Certified Renovator" designation which is required for contractors who work on pre-1978 houses, whose work involves "disturbing" the paint (or stain) in any manner - what they teach in the class is to be VERY careful with heat guns, 1) from the standpoint you can set the house on fire with one, and 2) lead (paint) will aerosolize when subjected to a threshhold temperature - and if/when that happens - it is a VERY dangerous form of potential exposure to lead because you breath it right in. To my knowledge, the issue is the temperature, not what technology is used to get to that temperature - but I do not fully know the nuances of that. What they teach in the class is that it is the temperature that creates the scenario of aerosolization, and if/when that happens, it is a VERY dangerous form of lead exposure because it is so efficient in getting the toxin into your lungs. Frankly, I don't know, but I'm not sure if the required N100 mask will even block the lead when it is aerosolized. Maybe, but I don't know. If you are going to use a heat gun for anything - you need to make very very very sure you have the safety issues all covered - for fire safety and lead paint issues.
Thank you for posting the video. I believe the instructions recommend raw linseed oil (not boiled). I imagine this is because it does not cure and will penetrate all night. You may want to see if this improves results in any way.
Looks like a lot of paint was still left on the siding. Did you go back and heat again? when you painted over it, did the cracks and roughness show through?
i wonder how cost-effective this is? seems to be alot of power for small areas. assuming it's a 1kw heater, ~2-4 minutes per section, ~6x6" square, stripping an average door would use 5.33kwh of electricity
Maybe ok for some projects but time and electricity used ya might as well use a damm pressure washer roll a little thinner on it the day before you strip it or a chlorine bleach type mix and spray and tear and sand the damm thing
You might try a propane torch or heat gun - test to see how much heat -DON'T BURN - you need or flame spreader - electricity isn't cheap. They would be a little more useable, perhaps, on a vertical surface like wood siding. Also, you are going to do a lot of work on an old wood sided house. I'D JUST TAKE THE SIDING OFF & RE-SIDE USING VINYL - especially on a foreclosure . Or remove wood and nails, plane siding and re-install - replacing bad wood. You can rent a planer but only take down like 1/64th an inch. If you want to re-use/re-paint wood you could also sand with a belt sander (rented). I'd use a 80-100 grit, maybe even rougher. Watch it - it will take it down fast especially under pressure, test first and wear safety goggles and a mask. I'D ONLY SAND/RE-PAINT/REMOVE PAINT AS A LAST OPTION. RE-DOING WOOD SIDED HOUSES IS A BOATLOAD OF WORK.
The price for these things are outrageous, so I just used a room heater which in return save me a lot of money.. Yes a room heater because that's what these things are.....$30 to $50 bucks..
flyingbuttmonkey21. thats what i noticed too, its a damn room heater .i wonder if someone has posted a video on how to make own paintheater from a converted room heater.these devices are way too over priced for what it does.its a rip off.i need to remove paint from my kitchen.may look into renting one of these
111zen111 that's funny I get a reply about this. I just spoke to my wife yesterday about buying one today. I will make a video and post it once I get every thing together...
@@travisthechimp7857 10,000 degrees. You need a dozen heaters all working together. Wear a dust mask though so your face doesn’t melt off like the old bro on Raiders of Lost Ark
Lead is one of the reasons you'd use a tool like this. The paint is left as solid pieces that can be wiped up and disposed of, rather than kicked up as dust into the air that will settle on everything and be easy to inhale.
@@googleclaire have you taken the EPA lead course? Then you’d know that them not having rubber gloves under heavy gloves is the fist sign that they are not being safe. Go for it
Modify respirator to pull air from rear. Use glasses, long sleeve clothes. This is way worse than pressure washing and grinding. Since you will solely be dealing with un bound lead first coat that is made brittle by the heat. Feathering deals with upper layers. While water blasting chips arw still encapsulated and boundup with acrylic top coats. Also, areas that are peeling prone, usually have had lead peel off decades ago. While tight areas with lead, usual stay tight with 1 or 2 percent peel per decade.
Thanks for posting, I was wondering about the infrared remover, and this will help me out on my own rehab project
Cool product. Only 900 more hours and that whole house will be ready for paint!
You can do 90 hours once or 30 hours 4 times. It's a lot easier to do it once and be done with it.
whenever you use a heat gun on paint, if the paint is known to contain lead, or if it is not known but it might - MAKE SURE the heat gun does not have the capability to reach 1100 degrees because if it does (and some do) that is the temperature where lead becomes an aerosol and you will be effectively vaping lead.
Good info, appreciate that. Do these infrared tools get to that temperature to make lead vaporize? I was reading people recommend infrared for indoors but then I see it heats up and smokes the paint. And there’s other unwanted chemicals in old paint besides lead that is great to breath indoors
@@mick2spic I do not know the answer to that, however in the training for the EPA "Certified Renovator" designation which is required for contractors who work on pre-1978 houses, whose work involves "disturbing" the paint (or stain) in any manner - what they teach in the class is to be VERY careful with heat guns, 1) from the standpoint you can set the house on fire with one, and 2) lead (paint) will aerosolize when subjected to a threshhold temperature - and if/when that happens - it is a VERY dangerous form of potential exposure to lead because you breath it right in. To my knowledge, the issue is the temperature, not what technology is used to get to that temperature - but I do not fully know the nuances of that. What they teach in the class is that it is the temperature that creates the scenario of aerosolization, and if/when that happens, it is a VERY dangerous form of lead exposure because it is so efficient in getting the toxin into your lungs. Frankly, I don't know, but I'm not sure if the required N100 mask will even block the lead when it is aerosolized. Maybe, but I don't know. If you are going to use a heat gun for anything - you need to make very very very sure you have the safety issues all covered - for fire safety and lead paint issues.
@@010203040506073 these infrared paint strippers only go up to about 400⁰F so they do not get hot enough to vaporize lead or zinc.
This is infrared it only gets to 400-600 degrees
Thank you for posting the video. I believe the instructions recommend raw linseed oil (not boiled). I imagine this is because it does not cure and will penetrate all night. You may want to see if this improves results in any way.
Did you end of doing the whole house like this? If so can you share an update on how it look? Thanks
Hey liked your videos! I see it's over a year since you last posted them. Hope everything is going well would love to see an update!!!!
Cheers Cx
Looks like a lot of paint was still left on the siding. Did you go back and heat again? when you painted over it, did the cracks and roughness show through?
holy crap that beats endless sanding all day.
Not really. The paint you struggle to get off actually protects the wood. It's the best paint there is.
@@fungames24 but if it's chalky and deteriorated, though still adhered pretty well, it's not going to have the same life as new primer and paint.
@@leeknivek If it adheres well then it is the best primer in the business.
Soo what's the current update on the reno?
Looks like the Ghostbuster's trapping machine...lol
This should be the top comment 😂👌🙌
Would it be easier to use Sunnyside 2 minute Paint remover.
i wonder how cost-effective this is? seems to be alot of power for small areas. assuming it's a 1kw heater, ~2-4 minutes per section, ~6x6" square, stripping an average door would use 5.33kwh of electricity
Plug into the neighbors outlet and you’re good. 👍
Nice it doesn’t damage the wood like a disk sander
Is this the 1400 watt twin? You don't state. Only state you own one in the description.
Looks a tiny bit faster than a heat gun but a heat gun gives you a little more control.
If it weren't for the waiting time to heat up, it would be great. I still think the Paint Shaver Pro is faster, albeit noisier.
I would agree on the speed but on mill work where you want to minimize damage this seems like a good option
How do you buy one of these?
Same result with my 10$ toaster oven
Concerns on starting a fire?
Maybe ok for some projects but time and electricity used ya might as well use a damm pressure washer roll a little thinner on it the day before you strip it or a chlorine bleach type mix and spray and tear and sand the damm thing
also - you have to be careful with heat guns in general because they can set the house on fire, also not good.
This tool is not UL-listed. Retail stores will not risk the liability of it.
You might try a propane torch or heat gun - test to see how much heat -DON'T BURN - you need or flame spreader - electricity isn't cheap. They would be a little more useable, perhaps, on a vertical surface like wood siding. Also, you are going to do a lot of work on an old wood sided house. I'D JUST TAKE THE SIDING OFF & RE-SIDE USING VINYL - especially on a foreclosure . Or remove wood and nails, plane siding and re-install - replacing bad wood. You can rent a planer but only take down like 1/64th an inch. If you want to re-use/re-paint wood you could also sand with a belt sander (rented). I'd use a 80-100 grit, maybe even rougher. Watch it - it will take it down fast especially under pressure, test first and wear safety goggles and a mask. I'D ONLY SAND/RE-PAINT/REMOVE PAINT AS A LAST OPTION. RE-DOING WOOD SIDED HOUSES IS A BOATLOAD OF WORK.
I loathe vinyl siding. A CHEAP way of covering up the problems underneath.
This is really interesting and I need it to save myself a lot of time, but not for $300. I wonder if someone rents these out :)
I believe the Silent Paint Remover company does rent them out.
cool
Nice
Looks like it would take a long time on a project
The price for these things are outrageous, so I just used a room heater which in return save me a lot of money.. Yes a room heater because that's what these things are.....$30 to $50 bucks..
flyingbuttmonkey21. thats what i noticed too, its a damn room heater .i wonder if someone has posted a video on how to make own paintheater from a converted room heater.these devices are way too over priced for what it does.its a rip off.i need to remove paint from my kitchen.may look into renting one of these
111zen111 that's funny I get a reply about this. I just spoke to my wife yesterday about buying one today. I will make a video and post it once I get every thing together...
@@flyingbuttmonkey21 did you ever post a video?
What temperature did you heat the room up to make the paint melt ?
@@travisthechimp7857 10,000 degrees. You need a dozen heaters all working together. Wear a dust mask though so your face doesn’t melt off like the old bro on Raiders of Lost Ark
Wow 😮 all i can think of is sponge 🧽 bob (10000 years later)
Not convencing, I will teach you my tools... coming up soon
Heat gun does the same and a lot cheaper
The problem with a heat gun is controlling the heat so as to not crack the panes.
...”makes a difference?” You don’t seem convinced lol
Have fun with all that lead!
The Lead is harmless in this manner of removal.
Lead is one of the reasons you'd use a tool like this. The paint is left as solid pieces that can be wiped up and disposed of, rather than kicked up as dust into the air that will settle on everything and be easy to inhale.
@@googleclaire have you taken the EPA lead course? Then you’d know that them not having rubber gloves under heavy gloves is the fist sign that they are not being safe. Go for it
should wear gloves and respirator
and a bullet proof vest and anti-Boogeyman spray.
Modify respirator to pull air from rear. Use glasses, long sleeve clothes. This is way worse than pressure washing and grinding. Since you will solely be dealing with un bound lead first coat that is made brittle by the heat. Feathering deals with upper layers. While water blasting chips arw still encapsulated and boundup with acrylic top coats. Also, areas that are peeling prone, usually have had lead peel off decades ago. While tight areas with lead, usual stay tight with 1 or 2 percent peel per decade.
in 12 months u might have finished hahaha
"Not a paid endorsement." Yeah right.
Oh, fuck off