The fact that John was willing to participate in this video, even though you typically use a competitor's products, says a lot about the UA-cam lawn care community.
NC State's soil reports list Humic Matter % instead of Organic Matter %. I understand humic is the result of organic matter that has completed the degradation process so they are similar, but my Humic% is going to be much smaller than an organic % readout. Is there an easy conversion or a good tip to reading humic % in soil?
I watched this the first time and frankly had no idea what they were talking about, except that I needed to get a soil test. Got my results from Waypoint Analytical today and re-watched. Completely different experience! Great information and really good and clear direction on where I need to go.
Love your channel and I am also subscriber to lawncology, John Perry's channel. You both are excellent educators and entertainers. You have to be good entertainers or your education would never get through my thick skull. Thank you both.
Great video Ryan (and John). Love to see the science behind the soil tests and not just "throw 'er down." (Sorry Allyn, I couldn't help myself). I did a soil test early this spring (for planning and budgeting purposes) and will do another one in August to see what I can do in the fall. Thanks again.
I realize it was a simple spelling error, but it would have taken your comment to a whole new level of awesome if you said "soul", instead of "sole"...considering that Ryan pours his soul into his lawn.
Great video. I am right there with you on the zero phos/no milo for the foreseeable future. I don't think my wife will miss the smell but I'll miss the $8 bags of our local alternative.
Now this is very good stuff. Now in my humble opinion I think this should be the first method of procedure you should do first, get a soil test. The results will actually guide you on what you need to add to your lawn and it educates you on your lawn current conditions. If you don’t do this first you’re simply stabbing in the dark and wasting money. This good content right here. Awesome stuff
Maybe a future video will include an elemental sulfur application and some basic guidelines. Something I have never done before but find it interesting.
So what's interesting here is that I use starter fert and milo every single year. Starter at the beginning of every year, and milo at all the normal times. The phos in my lawn/test was a LOT lower than it should be. Lots of anti milo stuff in the recent months but I'll still be happily throwing it on the lawn for this year
Wow that was interesting to listen to. I have never had a soil test done and now I want to. We have a lot of pines on our property and struggle with growing quality turf.
@@ryanknorrlawncare Good point!!! I was only addressing a Milo alternative. I believe you are a fan of Simple Lawn Solutions!! They have a couple products to look at: Superior Nitrogen & Potash 15-0-15 NPK Maximum Green & Growth- High Nitrogen 28-0-0 NPK would be another option with them as well, however, you have big 28 on Nitrogen which could effect your pounds per year application.
Yep I've been using all those liquids. The difference with liquid apps is the N rate is lower (you can safely apply directly to the foliage) so you still need some granular into the program unless you want to be applying much more often. At 10 oz per thousand of 28-0-0 you'd get about .25 pounds N so not bad but it's not as much as granular.
Ryan/John What a great video! Super informative, My KBG/RYE test is very similar to yours, John Recommended Elemental Sulfur and AMS last year! Apply AMS as Winterizer and Sulfur in Nov. I just did another round of Sulfur and the Humic12 - Air 8 combo Note Air 8 (watered in) adds a good little kick of K as well. I saw a color response with in two days after this. From now on its AMS for N and SOP for K adding 4lbs sulfur 2x a year going forward! Chad Upstate NY
@@ryanknorrlawncare Thanks If you get a chance also Ask John P. about KMAG something he has me put down to help with K additions and MAG to Calcium ratios!
I'm making the transition from an application of generic lawn fertilizer a few times a year to full soil correction, micro nutrients and organic fertilizers. I love the tech both of you give. I've added several things so far so I guess the thing to do now is a test. Question is, now that I've added Humic acid, gypsum, micronutrients (heavy on the S, MN and MG) where do I get a sample from? Maybe I'm going to have to take a few samples, treated and untreated. Thank you both.
What a great video. I stopped working in my Centipede lawn to come over and comment. It’s guys like you who inspire me to make my little Yard Mama videos ( sorry I had a brain freeze and forgot your name John Perry - at least I alluded to the correct name of your YT page).Feel free to advise/ comment/ correct anything you see on my videos if you guys ever feel like watching. I’m new at this and just video on what I do on my front lawn, but I love learning and sharing knowledge - esp for us Centipede minority ppl.
Thanks Ryan & John! I did a soil test for the first time this year thanks to your recommendation Ryan and found my Minnesota lawn results are pretty darn close to your Iowa levels . So, I will be using the content from this great video to help amend my lawn as well going forward. Very informative as always, so thanks very much!
"8 months" of growing seadon... I feel living in Minnesota for a while it was more like 6 months of growing season... stay warm my friend but enjoy the cool season lawn...
So I'm just getting into this lawn stuff. Need some help on completing this renovation I've started. I've used roundup to kill off the lawn and have scalped it. There are tips of dead Dallis grass roots in the soil, should I pull them out? Will I have to remove all organic material or can I leave some for runoff purposes 🤔 also. I've purchased, tenacity, a soil test kit, the next kit with the 4 gallons of grass stuff lol and sprayer, what should I do next?
Great video. Super informative. Any suggestions on a regional soil expert in the northeast? Just got back my soil test results and have what seems to be a tricky problem of acidic soil that is also very low in sulfur.
I just fertilized my lawn for the first time because it looks so sad, 40% Crabgrass and weeds with plenty of dead areas. The fertilizer I used was Scotts Southern Lawn 32-0-10, I also Aerated it about 3 weeks ago. Everything is very green including the Crab Grass. I would like to start over, would it be a bad choice to till everything with the grass or do I need to manually remove the grass from the top soil.
What soil test did you get done to show all of that info? Do you recommend one over the other? Haven't had one done on my lawn yet and need a place to start. Love all of John Perry's info.
Great info from the expert. I just live down in the valley from John. Would love to meet him. I know our other fellow utahn lawn UA-camrs are Connor Ward and Jeremy from The greener lawn. Would love to meet you all. As always Ryan, very educational... Have a good weekend boys..
Can you explain in a little more detail the CEC? Mine is at 7.3, yours is 19.1. Can that be raised, lowered, improved in any way? Or is it just kind of what it is?
Do you have hard water? That'll cause high calcium and magnesium. Here in Arizona my soil test showed both high, calcium is super duper high. I'm not sure yet how to remove some of those, or if it's possible. Watering with softened water puts sodium into the soil instead of those 2. I suppose sodium can be removed with gypsum when it builds up too much. But yeah, hard water may be your problem.
I'm so Thankful to you both for this video. I got my YM soil test results today and was Super excited. That began to turn into despair as I interpreted these results. Thanks to Allyn Hanes booklet on how to understand my results, I'm no longer feeling helpless. I'm Calm, I know I have things pointed in the right direction. Now I have to get my Domination moving. I'm going to try to apply every GEM of advice John Perry provided.
How long does iron stay in the soil? I also used a lot of Milo, and now the iron levels are very high. Wondering how long those will take to drop as I'm hoping to apply some liquid iron this year.
Ryan, taking a stab in the dark here. I have .01 Boron level in my soil. Any suggestions? I see Biomin Boron but it really doesnt say it's for lawns but does list fruit trees, veggies etc.
I paused the video at the end to look at that last graph ... but what I want to know is; who or how do they decide what is a 'optimum' level for each compound ?
Hi Ryan, I love your videos! I just used the soilsavvy test. Are there better lab kits available to the lawn amateur, or have you found/heard that soilsavvy is as good as any other?
What is a good alternative to Milo (as in organic, I live in MD for any regional recommendations); I have 4 bags left of milo I plan on using up this year but my P came back as 143... super high I know but the only recommendation I was given was anything X-0-X and to use lime to get my PH up from 5.7.
Hi Ryan, as a recent user of elemental sulfur I wanted to share my experience with you. As John said, sulfur will be available at any garden store but it's usually in very small volume for gardening. Buying that stuff to apply to an entire lawn would cost big $$. If you look a little harder you should be able to find sulfur (typically a 90% elemental sulfur) in 50 lb bags for about $30. At 90%, that would be 5 lb/1000 for an 9000 sq ft lawn. It takes over a month for it to completely disperse/dissolve and enter your soil. It's going to be a HUGE PROBLEM on your short-cut grass. (It's no problem at all on higher-cut grass as it will quickly move down to the base of the grass leaves and escape disruption from mowing.) I applied sulfur on my 1/2" bermuda when it went dormant last fall, and again just recently right after my super-short-cut spring scalp. If you have many, many choices for elemental sulfur, try to find out if any particular brand/source disperses quickly (I doubt you'll find any, as it's probably done that way to avoid shocking the grass and for user safety reasons). I'm looking forward to see what you use, as I'll be applying it for several years (my Oklahoma soil was tested twice, at 8.1-8.3 pH).
Good info...A friend of mine picked some up for me from a local pro turf supply place but I haven't got it yet to look it over. If it falls to the soil below my 3/4" turf and stays there for a while what would that disturb with cutting? I'm just wanting to understand your comment there. Thanks!
@@ryanknorrlawncare You may be all right using a motorized reel (I don't think it would suck up anything, would it?) and a mulching Toro, but if you're bagging the clippings you're going to suck up a lot of the sulfur into the discharge bag long before the pellets have a chance to disperse into the soil.
I just got my soil test back and my phosphorus levels are very low (1.05). The soil test recommends a 0-45-0. In my search I'm finding it is very hard to find fertilizer with high phosphorus content, other than starter fertilizer., In my area. (PA) Any recommendations?
@@ryanknorrlawncare in my research. Doc recommended Miracle-Gro bloom booster in one of his videos. NPK 15-30-15. What are your thoughts? I know doc has a warm season lawn (Bermuda) and not sure how well the application of this would be on the cool season lawn that I have.
Even with such amazing information provided such as this video, there will still be a milo shortage this year and people will still ”throw’er down” at 1lbN every 4-6 weeks and then ask why they have weeds, fungus, insects or why their turf isn't as green as someone else.
Probably a few different things...on the organic side I'm looking at Purely Organic. There's a link in the description for those interested in checking it out.
I picked up some sulfate of potash last season in a 50 pound bag from a local turf supply place. It goes down with a regular spreader or you can also use a soluble version and spray it
Very informative, excellent video! I picked up some extra knowledge for the future and a video worth watching over again. If you don’t mind me asking, was there a cost associated with the spectrum test?
Narrowing down that I need more of "X" or more of "Y" is a good start but how does the average lawn care enthusiast that doesnt have a soil expert interpreting the results determine how many pounds of a nutrient to add to their own lawn?
Actually the iron isn't really being used as much as it shows on there because of my pH...that's the thing about the pH in relation to the levels in the soil...if my pH was dialed in to between 6-7 I would be a little better off there.
pH of 7.3 isn’t bad at all. same with high calcium. especially in lawns that get irrigated! I understand Sulfur supplements but purely pH and Ca alone is a weird thing to point out. Get some boron on there. source: bachelors degree in land reclamation, soil, and plant science.
Blzt it’s good you point that out. Ryan and I had a conversation for an hour after this about everything on the test and that was one of the things I pointed out and how he could get boron down cheaply, easily, and quickly. The sulfur and calcium conversation was mainly due to adjusting nutrient uptake and the fact that he gets hard pan and the addition of the acids will aid in relieving that with (sulfur converting to sulfuric acid in soil solution). Also recommended using ammonium sulfate and potassium sulfate for overall nutrition. The calcium conversation is important as his base saturation’s of cal were higher than a balance. So... maybe I’m a more detail oriented but after going through nutrient programs for turf and Ag now for almost 20 years, o have a few things that I like to see corrected that end up benefiting the lawn for a much greater length of time. My main area of study is reduced herbicide controls through nutrient supplementation. Cal and pH play a huge part of that.
Lawncology i understand the move to ammonium sulphate from a nutrient status pov but from an acidification standpoint i was confused. what does the lower than average pH achieve here?
Blzt lower than average is a broad term. Average in Florida is upper 7’s, average in Georgia is 5-6... maximum nutrient uptake is achieved with pH’s around 6.8-6.9. That’s where you’ll see greatest nutrient availability. He’s going to get greater phos uptake with the acidic addition as well and greater calcium uptake.
Ryan Knorr Lawn Care ph was 6.41 on my soil savvy test. Basically everything was an improvement but npk was slightly lower. But then again this yeah I took my soil sample in late March before any fert applications this year. Last year I took it after my first app. So not really a fair comparison
I’m hoping to just go a little heavy on my milo apps and add potash to every milo drop this season. See where I’m at next year. Also my prodiamine is 007 and later in June my merit for grubs is 007 so my k should be great next year when I test it
The fact that John was willing to participate in this video, even though you typically use a competitor's products, says a lot about the UA-cam lawn care community.
John is just a great guy!
that turned out really well. You are a Whiz Bang at the editing buddy! It's gonna be a great year in the lawn, hope to see you soon!
Lawncology are you coming to Iowa to be on Beyond the Lawn?
Jon Fokken that’s the plan!
Lawncology that is one meetup I know I will be at. 👍
Thanks again for helping with the vid!
NC State's soil reports list Humic Matter % instead of Organic Matter %. I understand humic is the result of organic matter that has completed the degradation process so they are similar, but my Humic% is going to be much smaller than an organic % readout. Is there an easy conversion or a good tip to reading humic % in soil?
I watched this the first time and frankly had no idea what they were talking about, except that I needed to get a soil test. Got my results from Waypoint Analytical today and re-watched. Completely different experience! Great information and really good and clear direction on where I need to go.
Love your channel and I am also subscriber to lawncology, John Perry's channel. You both are excellent educators and entertainers. You have to be good entertainers or your education would never get through my thick skull. Thank you both.
How am I just finding this now? You 2 are my go-to's now. Thanks OGs!
I love listening to John. Thanks for doing this video. That was really a great conversation that put soil & grass health into perspective.
Best soil test review I’ve seen. Thanks Ryan for making the video and thanks John for breaking it down.
Great video Ryan (and John). Love to see the science behind the soil tests and not just "throw 'er down." (Sorry Allyn, I couldn't help myself). I did a soil test early this spring (for planning and budgeting purposes) and will do another one in August to see what I can do in the fall. Thanks again.
Nicely done guys! Great info, as is the norm with either of you. My favorite part was the epic lawn vs the trying to survive lawn....great analogy
Thanks!
Knowledge bombs 💣 👍🏼
Great video Ryan and John that is probably the best explanation of a sole test I have seen and listen to yet.
I realize it was a simple spelling error, but it would have taken your comment to a whole new level of awesome if you said "soul", instead of "sole"...considering that Ryan pours his soul into his lawn.
John is the man! Ryan is the man! Great info here! Love the perspective!
Awesome. Loved it!
making an appearance world wide mate!
This is super helpful for me. I have similar things going on with my results. Thanks you two!
Minnesota First! Thanks for the great video, the science behind the fun!
Great video ! Most informative video on soil samples I have seen !
Fantastic overview of a game plan and how to read the results. Thanks for sharing Ryan!
Great video. I am right there with you on the zero phos/no milo for the foreseeable future. I don't think my wife will miss the smell but I'll miss the $8 bags of our local alternative.
Now this is very good stuff. Now in my humble opinion I think this should be the first method of procedure you should do first, get a soil test. The results will actually guide you on what you need to add to your lawn and it educates you on your lawn current conditions. If you don’t do this first you’re simply stabbing in the dark and wasting money. This good content right here. Awesome stuff
Which was your preferred soil testing kit?
Waypoint
@@ryanknorrlawncare thanks !
Great video. Thanks Ryan and John Perry.
Maybe a future video will include an elemental sulfur application and some basic guidelines. Something I have never done before but find it interesting.
I haven't applied before either but will be very soon.
So what's interesting here is that I use starter fert and milo every single year. Starter at the beginning of every year, and milo at all the normal times.
The phos in my lawn/test was a LOT lower than it should be. Lots of anti milo stuff in the recent months but I'll still be happily throwing it on the lawn for this year
Very Informative. Thank you!
Great edit. Great info. And great people in this video! 👌
Wow that was interesting to listen to. I have never had a soil test done and now I want to. We have a lot of pines on our property and struggle with growing quality turf.
I think it would be interesting to see what you're dealing with
Hey, when is the best time of the season to test your lawn soil ? Prior to first spring fertilizer application ?
Ryan!! Lowe's is now caring a product bagged by Pennington in reaction to Milo shortages. It is called Pro Care. It drops to a 4-3-0 with 1.5% Iron.
That would still give me more phosphorus though with that 3 in there
@@ryanknorrlawncare Good point!!! I was only addressing a Milo alternative. I believe you are a fan of Simple Lawn Solutions!! They have a couple products to look at:
Superior Nitrogen & Potash 15-0-15 NPK
Maximum Green & Growth- High Nitrogen 28-0-0 NPK would be another option with them as well, however, you have big 28 on Nitrogen which could effect your pounds per year application.
Yep I've been using all those liquids. The difference with liquid apps is the N rate is lower (you can safely apply directly to the foliage) so you still need some granular into the program unless you want to be applying much more often. At 10 oz per thousand of 28-0-0 you'd get about .25 pounds N so not bad but it's not as much as granular.
Ryan/John What a great video! Super informative, My KBG/RYE test is very similar to yours, John Recommended Elemental Sulfur and AMS last year! Apply AMS as Winterizer and Sulfur in Nov. I just did another round of Sulfur and the Humic12 - Air 8 combo Note Air 8 (watered in) adds a good little kick of K as well. I saw a color response with in two days after this. From now on its AMS for N and SOP for K adding 4lbs sulfur 2x a year going forward! Chad Upstate NY
Sounds like you have a great plan!
@@ryanknorrlawncare Thanks If you get a chance also Ask John P. about KMAG something he has me put down to help with K additions and MAG to Calcium ratios!
I'm making the transition from an application of generic lawn fertilizer a few times a year to full soil correction, micro nutrients and organic fertilizers. I love the tech both of you give. I've added several things so far so I guess the thing to do now is a test. Question is, now that I've added Humic acid, gypsum, micronutrients (heavy on the S, MN and MG) where do I get a sample from? Maybe I'm going to have to take a few samples, treated and untreated. Thank you both.
What a great video. I stopped working in my Centipede lawn to come over and comment. It’s guys like you who inspire me to make my little Yard Mama videos ( sorry I had a brain freeze and forgot your name John Perry - at least I alluded to the correct name of your YT page).Feel free to advise/ comment/ correct anything you see on my videos if you guys ever feel like watching. I’m new at this and just video on what I do on my front lawn, but I love learning and sharing knowledge - esp for us Centipede minority ppl.
Thanks Ryan & John! I did a soil test for the first time this year thanks to your recommendation Ryan and found my Minnesota lawn results are pretty darn close to your Iowa levels . So, I will be using the content from this great video to help amend my lawn as well going forward. Very informative as always, so thanks very much!
"8 months" of growing seadon... I feel living in Minnesota for a while it was more like 6 months of growing season... stay warm my friend but enjoy the cool season lawn...
@@jimmyjohn8008 It's most definitely only 6 months of growing season in Minnesota IMHO.
Yep we get a bit more warmth where I'm at but I know all about the MN life....it's not an easy one with winter!
So I'm just getting into this lawn stuff. Need some help on completing this renovation I've started. I've used roundup to kill off the lawn and have scalped it. There are tips of dead Dallis grass roots in the soil, should I pull them out? Will I have to remove all organic material or can I leave some for runoff purposes 🤔 also. I've purchased, tenacity, a soil test kit, the next kit with the 4 gallons of grass stuff lol and sprayer, what should I do next?
Great video. Super informative. Any suggestions on a regional soil expert in the northeast? Just got back my soil test results and have what seems to be a tricky problem of acidic soil that is also very low in sulfur.
I just fertilized my lawn for the first time because it looks so sad, 40% Crabgrass and weeds with plenty of dead areas. The fertilizer I used was Scotts Southern Lawn 32-0-10, I also Aerated it about 3 weeks ago. Everything is very green including the Crab Grass. I would like to start over, would it be a bad choice to till everything with the grass or do I need to manually remove the grass from the top soil.
What soil test did you get done to show all of that info? Do you recommend one over the other? Haven't had one done on my lawn yet and need a place to start. Love all of John Perry's info.
Here's my test results: ph=6.0; Phos="less than trace" ;Nitrogen=0; potassium= "medium". What do I do to make my soil ready for Zoysia sod? Thank you!
Which lab provided the results you reviewed? I just got back the mysoilsavvy report and was disappointed it didn't have CEC / Organic Matter %
This video got me to subscribe to lawncology. Super informative video
Great info from the expert. I just live down in the valley from John. Would love to meet him. I know our other fellow utahn lawn UA-camrs are Connor Ward and Jeremy from The greener lawn. Would love to meet you all. As always Ryan, very educational... Have a good weekend boys..
Maybe a meet up someday!
Can you explain in a little more detail the CEC? Mine is at 7.3, yours is 19.1. Can that be raised, lowered, improved in any way? Or is it just kind of what it is?
Did I miss the soil test you were using?
Great video. Editing skills on point here but able to get a ton of information with this video!
Ryan, what elemental sulfur did you use. I need to drop my ph from near 8 to around 6.5. Any recommendations?
I'm so confused. My soil ph is good at 6.73 but my calcium is super high at 543 and magnesium at 161. Any idea what i should do?
Do you have hard water? That'll cause high calcium and magnesium. Here in Arizona my soil test showed both high, calcium is super duper high. I'm not sure yet how to remove some of those, or if it's possible. Watering with softened water puts sodium into the soil instead of those 2. I suppose sodium can be removed with gypsum when it builds up too much. But yeah, hard water may be your problem.
Awesome video! Re-watchable because I know I missed something.
Robert Sanden I’m on my third back to back watch.
I'm so Thankful to you both for this video. I got my YM soil test results today and was Super excited. That began to turn into despair as I interpreted these results. Thanks to Allyn Hanes booklet on how to understand my results, I'm no longer feeling helpless. I'm Calm, I know I have things pointed in the right direction. Now I have to get my Domination moving. I'm going to try to apply every GEM of advice John Perry provided.
Is there a way or product to lower zinc and phosphorus levels
No fertilizer with phos and then bag clippings and remove them
How long does iron stay in the soil? I also used a lot of Milo, and now the iron levels are very high. Wondering how long those will take to drop as I'm hoping to apply some liquid iron this year.
Ryan, taking a stab in the dark here. I have .01 Boron level in my soil. Any suggestions? I see Biomin Boron but it really doesnt say it's for lawns but does list fruit trees, veggies etc.
Yes addressing how to deal with low boron would be helpful
Nice boys! I wanna see John’s lawn... 🌱
Ryan I’m also in Iowa any suggestions on who to go to for soil tests for my lawn?
Waypoint analytical in Atlantic
I paused the video at the end to look at that last graph
... but what I want to know is; who or how do they decide what is a 'optimum' level for each compound ?
I think John mentioned in the video but the optimum range comes back to your soil type and particle size (CEC) and is recommended with that in mind
Hi Ryan, I love your videos! I just used the soilsavvy test. Are there better lab kits available to the lawn amateur, or have you found/heard that soilsavvy is as good as any other?
Very helpful thanks for sharing!
So how does Jerry figure out how many pounds per 1000 to use of sulfur.
How often should you soil test?
Every few years unless you have something you're tracking closely
I need a video of how to use instruments to test soils to enable me know how to read the reaults
What soil test did you use???
Really good video. Thank you!
What is a good alternative to Milo (as in organic, I live in MD for any regional recommendations); I have 4 bags left of milo I plan on using up this year but my P came back as 143... super high I know but the only recommendation I was given was anything X-0-X and to use lime to get my PH up from 5.7.
I have a link in the description to what I'm thinking about using
@@ryanknorrlawncare Available at Home Depot here (NE Ohio) @
Hi Ryan, as a recent user of elemental sulfur I wanted to share my experience with you.
As John said, sulfur will be available at any garden store but it's usually in very small volume for gardening. Buying that stuff to apply to an entire lawn would cost big $$. If you look a little harder you should be able to find sulfur (typically a 90% elemental sulfur) in 50 lb bags for about $30. At 90%, that would be 5 lb/1000 for an 9000 sq ft lawn.
It takes over a month for it to completely disperse/dissolve and enter your soil. It's going to be a HUGE PROBLEM on your short-cut grass. (It's no problem at all on higher-cut grass as it will quickly move down to the base of the grass leaves and escape disruption from mowing.) I applied sulfur on my 1/2" bermuda when it went dormant last fall, and again just recently right after my super-short-cut spring scalp. If you have many, many choices for elemental sulfur, try to find out if any particular brand/source disperses quickly (I doubt you'll find any, as it's probably done that way to avoid shocking the grass and for user safety reasons).
I'm looking forward to see what you use, as I'll be applying it for several years (my Oklahoma soil was tested twice, at 8.1-8.3 pH).
Good info...A friend of mine picked some up for me from a local pro turf supply place but I haven't got it yet to look it over. If it falls to the soil below my 3/4" turf and stays there for a while what would that disturb with cutting? I'm just wanting to understand your comment there. Thanks!
@@ryanknorrlawncare You may be all right using a motorized reel (I don't think it would suck up anything, would it?) and a mulching Toro, but if you're bagging the clippings you're going to suck up a lot of the sulfur into the discharge bag long before the pellets have a chance to disperse into the soil.
Excellent! If you were to apply the sulfur in early Spring, then how long until a 2nd app should be made?
5 pounds for the year was the recommendation so if you can either split that up into smaller doses or try 5 in the early spring
nice ad for Green County
Remind me where we talked about Greene County?
I just got my soil test back and my phosphorus levels are very low (1.05). The soil test recommends a 0-45-0. In my search I'm finding it is very hard to find fertilizer with high phosphorus content, other than starter fertilizer., In my area. (PA)
Any recommendations?
A starter would be fine
@@ryanknorrlawncare in my research. Doc recommended Miracle-Gro bloom booster in one of his videos. NPK 15-30-15. What are your thoughts?
I know doc has a warm season lawn (Bermuda) and not sure how well the application of this would be on the cool season lawn that I have.
The NPK of my soil test is 11-1-22.
Hello Ryan,,,,what is the best soil test you recommend we use?
I have a Waypoint Analytical close to me so I have been using that one.
Even with such amazing information provided such as this video, there will still be a milo shortage this year and people will still ”throw’er down” at 1lbN every 4-6 weeks and then ask why they have weeds, fungus, insects or why their turf isn't as green as someone else.
Ryan great video.... very helpful. What fertilizer are you planning on using this year?
Probably a few different things...on the organic side I'm looking at Purely Organic. There's a link in the description for those interested in checking it out.
Good info in this one guys! Can you share where you will be getting your potassium from and how you will be putting it down?
I picked up some sulfate of potash last season in a 50 pound bag from a local turf supply place. It goes down with a regular spreader or you can also use a soluble version and spray it
Great video!
(Sees guitars in background, about to request John to solo) I mean soil... sulfate... go lawn goals!
That was a great background for the video!
Where is a good soil test kit to buy?
ua-cam.com/video/hURWeYYBrIc/v-deo.html
Great shirt!!
It is a great shirt
who did your soil test...suggestions for Ohio
Ryan without a hat is freaking me out 😆 SKOL Vikings
Very informative, excellent video! I picked up some extra knowledge for the future and a video worth watching over again.
If you don’t mind me asking, was there a cost associated with the spectrum test?
Full test (with all the extra details) is $30 if I remember correctly
I just had the full test (T3) and it was $50.
Is it too late to do a soil test at this point? I'm in SE Michigan.
No it just depends if you've fertilized recently or not as that can skew the results
@@ryanknorrlawncare yeah i recently put down milo and prodiamine
Narrowing down that I need more of "X" or more of "Y" is a good start but how does the average lawn care enthusiast that doesnt have a soil expert interpreting the results determine how many pounds of a nutrient to add to their own lawn?
WOW, look at how high that iron is. No wonder why your lawn is so green. How did you get the iron so high? Without Milo how will keep it that high?
Actually the iron isn't really being used as much as it shows on there because of my pH...that's the thing about the pH in relation to the levels in the soil...if my pH was dialed in to between 6-7 I would be a little better off there.
Really good
pH of 7.3 isn’t bad at all. same with high calcium. especially in lawns that get irrigated! I understand Sulfur supplements but purely pH and Ca alone is a weird thing to point out.
Get some boron on there.
source: bachelors degree in land reclamation, soil, and plant science.
Blzt it’s good you point that out. Ryan and I had a conversation for an hour after this about everything on the test and that was one of the things I pointed out and how he could get boron down cheaply, easily, and quickly. The sulfur and calcium conversation was mainly due to adjusting nutrient uptake and the fact that he gets hard pan and the addition of the acids will aid in relieving that with (sulfur converting to sulfuric acid in soil solution). Also recommended using ammonium sulfate and potassium sulfate for overall nutrition. The calcium conversation is important as his base saturation’s of cal were higher than a balance. So... maybe I’m a more detail oriented but after going through nutrient programs for turf and Ag now for almost 20 years, o have a few things that I like to see corrected that end up benefiting the lawn for a much greater length of time. My main area of study is reduced herbicide controls through nutrient supplementation. Cal and pH play a huge part of that.
Lawncology i understand the move to ammonium sulphate from a nutrient status pov but from an acidification standpoint i was confused. what does the lower than average pH achieve here?
Blzt lower than average is a broad term. Average in Florida is upper 7’s, average in Georgia is 5-6... maximum nutrient uptake is achieved with pH’s around 6.8-6.9. That’s where you’ll see greatest nutrient availability. He’s going to get greater phos uptake with the acidic addition as well and greater calcium uptake.
Lawncology ah gotcha and then the sulphate will ameliorate any problems with aluminum or iron on exchange sites.
Blzt one of the beauties of sulfate is the oxygen. It just helps catalyze so much
I love you RK
You should use ringer lawn restore
Bingo...also Ringer looks like it's not available on amazon at the moment
Earl may sometimes has ringer
I didn't see John's number in the notes. I have a soil test I need to call him about. 😄
answers@lawncology.com
I’ll take your Milorganite!
Best part was John not wearing any shoes.
Aussie First.😁 Great informative video . 😁👍👍
My brain! 🤯
First. Real first dirty as well
Connor Ward 🥉
Ever since using Milo I have a TON of earthworms in the lawn. No more MILO for me.
Just got my results in. And npk were all surprisingly low. Guess it’s time to “throw-er down”
What did it show for pH?
Ryan Knorr Lawn Care ph was 6.41 on my soil savvy test. Basically everything was an improvement but npk was slightly lower. But then again this yeah I took my soil sample in late March before any fert applications this year. Last year I took it after my first app. So not really a fair comparison
enp83 I took mine at the beginning of the season probably 5months after my last fall application so that makes sense
I’m hoping to just go a little heavy on my milo apps and add potash to every milo drop this season. See where I’m at next year. Also my prodiamine is 007 and later in June my merit for grubs is 007 so my k should be great next year when I test it
When I checked my PH and it measured mostly high I figured the phosphorus from the milorganite was not helping my lawn... so I quit buying it..
John is Awesome. Like Dr House for lawns.
Next level stuff. You gotta be sad about no more milorganite tho cmon!!
There are other options :)
Ryan Knorr Lawn Care I’ll buy your stash off of you.
It's hard to take it seriously without air pods. C'mon bro
first!
Thank the lawn care nut for everyone having high phosphorus this year . Ha milorganite is gonna have a huge decline this year
So far it looks like they might be selling out again this year so it's certainly still doing fine. :)
Full pallets not touched at every store around me
@@stopmytime9421 interesting, it is always gone at every store in my area.
Adam Kirby 9 bucks a bag, you pay shipping and I will send you what you want
@@stopmytime9421 Lol thanks but I found a Milo clone at Menards.
Not first first. Where’s the hat?
Had to show off my salt and pepper every once in a while
12th lol