Very nice E38. Lots of nice upgrades. I wish my Schnitzer S7 had 20” wheels. I had a set of those 20” Alpinas once, I sold them off to a German guy after I decided not to fit them on my then 728i
Look into these mods: S62 headers N62b48 throttle body 4 inch MAF housing Final drives: 215mm 3.15 e38 msport diff, 210mm 3.15 lsd from a e39 m5, 210mm 3.15lsd or 3.64lsd from e32 750il Dudmd stage 3 tune.
@@The777Garage yes and no. You can use the non vanos exhaust manifolds, but I'm talking about full lenght s62 SS headers. You can get them from Einhorn industries, supersprint, and Schmiedmann. However since Ed's across the pond there's another company in Germany who makes them also.
The sluggishness from lower RPM's could be due to adaptations? I'm not that clued up about e38s, but on my e46 resetting all adaptations on inpa made a massive difference in throttle response/torque low down. I would dig deeper, in terms of things to check here's some ideas: air leaks, MAF, o2 sensors, exhaust restrictions (bad cats maybe?), weak fuel pump? Good luck mate, hope it's an easy fix 🤞
You’ll obviously need to make sure your build is sound as I’m sure it is…you’re the man. If all good then it’s going to need a bespoke calibration tailored for specifically for the car. It’s definitely capable of more power. It’ll probably take a day to tune it. I’m pretty sure we won’t be able to flash the ECU via obd. So we’ll need to remove it from the car. I’m very confident that if you say the engine is capable of 340bhp, we should get pretty close. Our dyno is calibrated to OEM spec. We calibrated a naturally aspirated E63 AMG and gained just over 60bhp from stock.
Definitely dig deeper. Thats a perfect idea swapping with the 4.6 with the reason you described it (of course the 4.8 from the V8s would be even better, but getting that engine is not possible i assume). Thats why it should bring up that horsepower. I mean i know old nearly 300k km e38 with 4.4 still pushing the original power. So yes get them hidden horse power back !
Badass motor Ed. Definitely needs a check, that engine push 340 from factory right?! Like someone already mentioned, look into fitting a 550i throttle body and Eventuri cold intake?! That should definitely add few more ponies
somtimes the catalytic converters clog up and steal some horsepower u should test drive it without the cat's or mesure the backpresure inside the exhaust system
Updates? Did u ever do the 4.6 throttlebody? Also full cat delete with an x pipe and a better muffler would get some good gains. The stock exhaust is only good with some mods done to it.
I think you can figure it out to get more power and torque. If it were mine I'd be happy with it as is just because of the look of it. I think it is one of the classiest looking cars I have ever seen.
@Rhein Amacher Thanks, that makes sense. The Dinan tb for the m62 is just a rebadged n62b48 one. But you are talking about the Dinan tb for the N62 which is bigger.
@@The777Garage More info here on the n62b48 tb: www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2292590-N62-4-8L-big-bore-throttlebody-fits-m62tu-engine As mentioned by @Rhein Dinan also makes a bored out n62b48 version.
Hi Ed, torque looks much higher than 4.4, so what about swapping the rear diff to a M sport 3.15.... I have 2 spares if you want me to drop one in the mail.
Ed, does the car exhaust still remaining from FL? FL comes with 4 cats, maybe they don't give the ability to freely breathe to the engine. Try installing the pre-FL exhaust. E53 4.6 has two cat only.
i have an alpina b10 v8 , that has the 4.6 litre alpina engine in it , the 4.6 alpina has more changes to it than capacity , also the alpina b10 4.6 has a higher final drive ratio
keep look'n for the 340hp, you did the work, so the rest is fine tuning. if i may suggest, i think u need 3.15 diff. I wasn't sure if you said you swapped e38 ecu for e53 one or not?
On a used engine and dyno, I doubt you'd ever see a factory number of 340, everyone seems to be a bit under, so maybe 320 was realistic ? Deff have a look though.
@@The777Garage ok no sweat, will be keen to see what the issue is. i am doing a 4.6 swap on a touring in Australia, unfortunatley for us we ony got 6 cyl tourings so alot more work. I have the engine & now a donor 540 sedan for the balance of parts. I didnt get the torque convertor with the engine so not sure if this will have a big effect using just the standard 540i 5HP24 & TC.
Unless I missed it. You have to tune it to get more power out of it. Contact DUDMD. I have the same swap but its attached to a 6spd manual. I also added a few other upgrades rounding out my power but shes a beast. Get it tuned and the numbers should bump up.
@@m5p944 No at all actually there are plenty of amazing examples to the contary. Some are documented on youtube. A 6spd manual wakes the car up especially if its a msport. Placing a S62 or m62tub46/ m62b46 in front of the 6spd rounds out chassis complimenting its classic and elegant style with higher performance. But to each his own. End of the day we all build cars for ourselves. Cheers
I would have a manual over auto any day of the week, it's so much more engaging and fun to drive. These autos from 90s/ early 2000s are sluggish and rob a lot of power from the engine, so with a manual not only is it more fun but you also gain power. There is a reason older cars in manual form are more desirable!
@@m5p944 Hi Vlad..when you live in the country a 6sp is the Best! City driving Sucks. Modded many 7's over the years and it Brings out the Best of the Bavarian Beast...E38 i sport with a manual swap is the best of both worlds. Old +new Fast + smooth luxury. Solid + Safe.
What timing kit did you use? There is another video that shows how inaccurate some of them can be. He compared it to the GAS master timing kit and there was quite a difference. Inaccurate cam timing could be your lost 40hp.
I used RHD itbs on my m60b40 and used an emu ecu and I made 210rwkw on only 4 literes, I picked up torque and hp through the whole rev range, your intake is a massive restriction and the factory headers, I'm building a forged m60b45 NA engine ATM and that should go 280-300 rwkw,
What fuel did you use? Huge power difference on all the M and Alpina cars I've owned if they are fueled up with Shell V-power or similar 99 octane / high quality fuel! Also thinking about the Exhaust - stock 4.4 or any mods to optimize? As well as the induction system as some others have mentioned a carbon fibre shielded/cold air "open filter" might do some good.
Is that wheel power, or calculated crank power? As you may know, many dyno's will give you the calculated crank power based on losses from coast down. In both cases I think you could do better, but if it's wheel HP it's a fair result, if crank HP, something is definitely wrong. Did you swap all sensors etc (especially MAF) and ecu's for engine and gearbox from the donor? No com-codes in those etc? Also, have a look at the intake 'snorkel' to the air box, from memory it's diameter is significantly smaller than the rest of the intake system.. could be a restriction when you swap in a bigger engine. E34 540 had a really small one that restricted the power even in the standard M60.
A WBO (wide band oxygen sensor) would be helpful to see if you have the correct lambda. Just drive it WOT on the road reading the lambda. Around 0,8-0,9 at full throttle should be good.
@@The777Garage I don't think the chassis should matter as long as the ECU's are happy and function normally (coding needed?), and there are no physical restrictions, like restricted intake or exhaust backpressure (cats ok?), fuel pressure @ full load, cam timing, compression etc. I think power should be there if all above is ok, after that gearing, shift points, weight etc will influence how the car feels to drive, but it should make close to specified power without tuning.
Hey, maybe not about the topic, but recently i got bmw with petrol 4.4 engine and it has a small problem - what could be problem with m62tu engine if it has like a rattle at cold start up or after sitting for 3 or more hours. Also should it be like before 3500 rpm car feels somewhat slow and than theres turning point and it goes pretty well or theres something wrong with my vehicle. I tought that maybe these are common issues and you guys might know better. Thanks in advance!
@@berrymucuckiner4890 Thanks for replay! I am pretty sure that timing chain has been done on particular engine. However I ll check this option. I forgot to add that this rattle sound lasts for second or two, afterwards everything is smooth.
I’m not expert, but from reading a lot of forums sounds like the timing chain tensioners are not retaining any oil pressure, allowing the guides to release tension in the timing chain, hence the initial rattle till oil pressure builds. I bought two ome INA tensioners for about 60 Quid for my N62, the M62 only has one underneath the left bank looking from the rad towards the boot. Tim’s BMW has a video on replacing the tensioner, fairly easy job, just remember to pull the fuel pump fuse to prime the oil galleries on 1st start up after replacement
behind each vanos solenoid are check valves, if your rattle is brief on startup it could be one of these and not necessarily your timing chain as the vanos unit drains back to the distribution piece. Also check you have the correct bmw filter and that it is fully home/pressed into the base of the housing as there is also a valve in there that needs to be fully seated
Do you have M60 intake manifold? Or the one alpina used? Also what headers you use? I think exhaust may be limiting point. Have you done remap to your ECU? If you want I can help with ME7.2 flashing and tuning :)
@@The777Garage Engine sounds smooth. Have you checked the ignition timing? Maybe it's losing ignition advance due to bad knock sensor or old gas. You did siphon gas from another car.
I think the exhaust design is the issue. For whatever reason the way vanos works I think it works with restrictions instead against it. The more I've opened my 4.4 exhaust (especially dual 2 1/4 pipe) I've lost torque unless I nail it to higher rpm
Hey dude, I couldn't help but notice you're using the M62B44TU exhaust manifold on the B46 engine. This is very restrictive. Use the M62B44 non-Vanos headers instead, it could help make up some top end horsepower.
Anything under 340 wouldn't be acceptable to me. Its a 4.6 and should put out the power you expect! Dig deeper! Does it have the 4.6 DME? 3.15 sport diff? 4.6 intake manifold(non vanos)?
@@The777Garage Why not compare a stock 4.6 x5 on the dyno to see a true comparison? I have an Imola red DINAN S2 4.6iS and would like to see its numbers on the dyno. Also if you say you're getting an intermittent camshaft error I would start looking there.
Question 340hp on the fly or on wheels from factory? And 298hp you have is on wheels as counting all transmission loss about 15% your hp numbers looks right.
Man, it looks very classy car! You say that the differential is 2.93 , but the original is 3,53 ? The x5 (340hp) with what diff is ? I think you lose a lot of power there.. I will wait another series with that car!
45 hp is 45 hp,stay digging,it be ecu,or exhaust issue,check teh katalitic converter of the donor car, i say there be the different,also the rear silencers,the X5 have different back pressure in the silencers,like the E38.
Ahhhh, 298bhp at the wheels is about 340bhp at the crank…. The m62tu probably puts 250bhp at the wheels… So, I think it’s about right for what you have bro
You won’t get crank HP to the wheels. Vehicle Hp specs are rated on crank HP not wheel. My M62TU44B got 242hp/282TQ. You have 50 more HP than a 4.4, and altitude also matters.
That's less than 30 hp short of the 5.4L V12. Seriously? You oppose more horsepower, from BMW original/Alpina parts? Might be time to stop taking drugs.
@@m5p944 Don't knock it till you try it! Open mind + trottle! You have good taste in cars Vlad,it is hard to drive anything else after you have had 7 series!
Great video Ed , sound is spot on now
We tried 😁
Love your channel man!!!
Definitely dig deeper. Good luck!
Very nice E38. Lots of nice upgrades.
I wish my Schnitzer S7 had 20” wheels.
I had a set of those 20” Alpinas once, I sold them off to a German guy after I decided not to fit them on my then 728i
Look into these mods:
S62 headers
N62b48 throttle body
4 inch MAF housing
Final drives: 215mm 3.15 e38 msport diff, 210mm 3.15 lsd from a e39 m5, 210mm 3.15lsd or 3.64lsd from e32 750il
Dudmd stage 3 tune.
Might try 3.15
S62 headers are same as non vanos m62 right?
@@The777Garage yes and no. You can use the non vanos exhaust manifolds, but I'm talking about full lenght s62 SS headers. You can get them from Einhorn industries, supersprint, and Schmiedmann. However since Ed's across the pond there's another company in Germany who makes them also.
You are Ed the e38 king you will find the power you looking for 👊🏽🙌🏽🙏🏽
Great music on this channel 👊🏼
Dig deeper. Greetings from Bulgaria 👊🏽
The sluggishness from lower RPM's could be due to adaptations? I'm not that clued up about e38s, but on my e46 resetting all adaptations on inpa made a massive difference in throttle response/torque low down. I would dig deeper, in terms of things to check here's some ideas: air leaks, MAF, o2 sensors, exhaust restrictions (bad cats maybe?), weak fuel pump? Good luck mate, hope it's an easy fix 🤞
Love the style of steering wheel you on her, give s it classy look
Great video 👏
You’ll obviously need to make sure your build is sound as I’m sure it is…you’re the man. If all good then it’s going to need a bespoke calibration tailored for specifically for the car. It’s definitely capable of more power. It’ll probably take a day to tune it. I’m pretty sure we won’t be able to flash the ECU via obd. So we’ll need to remove it from the car. I’m very confident that if you say the engine is capable of 340bhp, we should get pretty close. Our dyno is calibrated to OEM spec.
We calibrated a naturally aspirated E63 AMG and gained just over 60bhp from stock.
Thanks..Ill contact Nick see what he can do that ecu
Definitely dig deeper. Thats a perfect idea swapping with the 4.6 with the reason you described it (of course the 4.8 from the V8s would be even better, but getting that engine is not possible i assume). Thats why it should bring up that horsepower. I mean i know old nearly 300k km e38 with 4.4 still pushing the original power. So yes get them hidden horse power back !
4.8l swap will require major fabrications, not easy swap at all.
4.8 is junk. better swap the s62.
Yes.
Dig deeper :)
Looks nice, like it..
Badass motor Ed. Definitely needs a check, that engine push 340 from factory right?!
Like someone already mentioned, look into fitting a 550i throttle body and Eventuri cold intake?! That should definitely add few more ponies
Sick to see that e38 with the paddle shifters. I've got them on my e46 automatic. Where are the extended paddles from? Great vid, keep it up mate.
Thanks
Extended paddles was on one of m3 i were breaking while back..not sure where they came from
Dig dieper for your mind...👍🙏🏁
change that diff 3.15 would be much better , also can you not get that torque convertor rebuilt ?
somtimes the catalytic converters clog up and steal some horsepower
u should test drive it without the cat's or mesure the backpresure inside the exhaust system
Updates? Did u ever do the 4.6 throttlebody? Also full cat delete with an x pipe and a better muffler would get some good gains. The stock exhaust is only good with some mods done to it.
Whatever happened with this one?
Not enough definitely 😎😎😎😎
Put the 3.15 gears in it.
Will give it a go at some point
I think you can figure it out to get more power and torque. If it were mine I'd be happy with it as is just because of the look of it. I think it is one of the classiest looking cars I have ever seen.
My 728i is giving 200bhp and weighs 1.6 tone does me fine for its weight.its quick.
Hi Edd, she is a beauty, but it is obviously eating away at you to figure out the issue , i would say give it a go.
Dig deeper. Also, the n62b48 throttle body is a nice upgrade
I actually have it somewhere on shelf..will do that
@Rhein Amacher My understanding is that the Dinan one is just a rebadged n62b48 one, and is same internal diameter?
@Rhein Amacher Thanks, that makes sense. The Dinan tb for the m62 is just a rebadged n62b48 one. But you are talking about the Dinan tb for the N62 which is bigger.
@@The777Garage More info here on the n62b48 tb: www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2292590-N62-4-8L-big-bore-throttlebody-fits-m62tu-engine As mentioned by @Rhein Dinan also makes a bored out n62b48 version.
Hi Ed, torque looks much higher than 4.4, so what about swapping the rear diff to a M sport 3.15.... I have 2 spares if you want me to drop one in the mail.
Thanks..i got one..I think I might give that a try
Do you still have a 3.15 sport diff available?
Thanks
Ed, does the car exhaust still remaining from FL? FL comes with 4 cats, maybe they don't give the ability to freely breathe to the engine. Try installing the pre-FL exhaust. E53 4.6 has two cat only.
Primary is out..i def have vanos issue
@@The777Garage install the 4.6 vanos back.
i have an alpina b10 v8 , that has the 4.6 litre alpina engine in it , the 4.6 alpina has more changes to it than capacity , also the alpina b10 4.6 has a higher final drive ratio
@Rhein Amacher 347 bhp different pistons cams engine hand build and head has hand flown ports , different software and higher compression ratio
keep look'n for the 340hp, you did the work, so the rest is fine tuning. if i may suggest, i think u need 3.15 diff. I wasn't sure if you said you swapped e38 ecu for e53 one or not?
On a used engine and dyno, I doubt you'd ever see a factory number of 340, everyone seems to be a bit under, so maybe 320 was realistic ? Deff have a look though.
Hello :) im new here :)
Nice swap :) just digg in and find out why the low hp ;)
I know shit about m62 engines so cant help you with it 🤣🤣🤣
why did the chart stop at 5250rpm? the engine revs to 6500 and makes peak power at 5700.
4th part?
Probably in summer
9:16😎
Hey did you ever get to the bottom of the horsepower issue?
No..left it atm
@@The777Garage ok no sweat, will be keen to see what the issue is. i am doing a 4.6 swap on a touring in Australia, unfortunatley for us we ony got 6 cyl tourings so alot more work. I have the engine
& now a donor 540 sedan for the balance of parts. I didnt get the torque convertor with the engine so not sure if this will have a big effect using just the standard 540i 5HP24 & TC.
Unless I missed it. You have to tune it to get more power out of it. Contact DUDMD. I have the same swap but its attached to a 6spd manual. I also added a few other upgrades rounding out my power but shes a beast. Get it tuned and the numbers should bump up.
6 speed in 7 series?
No fucking way.
What an annoying set up
@@m5p944 No at all actually there are plenty of amazing examples to the contary. Some are documented on youtube. A 6spd manual wakes the car up especially if its a msport. Placing a S62 or m62tub46/ m62b46 in front of the 6spd rounds out chassis complimenting its classic and elegant style with higher performance. But to each his own. End of the day we all build cars for ourselves. Cheers
@@mooseytres1974 That is so true mate.
I would have a manual over auto any day of the week, it's so much more engaging and fun to drive. These autos from 90s/ early 2000s are sluggish and rob a lot of power from the engine, so with a manual not only is it more fun but you also gain power. There is a reason older cars in manual form are more desirable!
@@m5p944 Hi Vlad..when you live in the country a 6sp is the Best! City driving Sucks. Modded many 7's over the years and it Brings out the Best of the Bavarian Beast...E38 i sport with a manual swap is the best of both worlds. Old +new Fast + smooth luxury. Solid + Safe.
When I did a 4.6 swap in to my friends E38, we flush the DME with 4.6 tune. In your case I would check the timing.
A BMW with no oil leaks, I thought that was impossible.
Lol thats what I thought..but my x5 workhorse with nearly 300k miles has no oil leak either..which is def wow
I just noticed my 20y old X5 has a leaking valve cover gasket... shame on that damn car. Only 20y old and 418tkm done 🤷🏼
Part 4 ?
What about a shorter ratio diff?
Ill try
What timing kit did you use? There is another video that shows how inaccurate some of them can be. He compared it to the GAS master timing kit and there was quite a difference. Inaccurate cam timing could be your lost 40hp.
Great work,
I have e38 3.5 2001 planning to do same swap 4.6
Any advice?
Also, do u face any issues after 5 months of swap or more ?
I used RHD itbs on my m60b40 and used an emu ecu and I made 210rwkw on only 4 literes, I picked up torque and hp through the whole rev range, your intake is a massive restriction and the factory headers, I'm building a forged m60b45 NA engine ATM and that should go 280-300 rwkw,
What fuel did you use? Huge power difference on all the M and Alpina cars I've owned if they are fueled up with Shell V-power or similar 99 octane / high quality fuel! Also thinking about the Exhaust - stock 4.4 or any mods to optimize? As well as the induction system as some others have mentioned a carbon fibre shielded/cold air "open filter" might do some good.
Ive used v power .
Dig dig dig!
Is that wheel power, or calculated crank power? As you may know, many dyno's will give you the calculated crank power based on losses from coast down. In both cases I think you could do better, but if it's wheel HP it's a fair result, if crank HP, something is definitely wrong. Did you swap all sensors etc (especially MAF) and ecu's for engine and gearbox from the donor? No com-codes in those etc? Also, have a look at the intake 'snorkel' to the air box, from memory it's diameter is significantly smaller than the rest of the intake system.. could be a restriction when you swap in a bigger engine. E34 540 had a really small one that restricted the power even in the standard M60.
A WBO (wide band oxygen sensor) would be helpful to see if you have the correct lambda. Just drive it WOT on the road reading the lambda. Around 0,8-0,9 at full throttle should be good.
Everything is swapped,but I suspected maybe ecu needs tune exactly for e38 chassis
@@The777Garage I don't think the chassis should matter as long as the ECU's are happy and function normally (coding needed?), and there are no physical restrictions, like restricted intake or exhaust backpressure (cats ok?), fuel pressure @ full load, cam timing, compression etc. I think power should be there if all above is ok, after that gearing, shift points, weight etc will influence how the car feels to drive, but it should make close to specified power without tuning.
Dig deeper! :P
Hey, maybe not about the topic, but recently i got bmw with petrol 4.4 engine and it has a small problem - what could be problem with m62tu engine if it has like a rattle at cold start up or after sitting for 3 or more hours. Also should it be like before 3500 rpm car feels somewhat slow and than theres turning point and it goes pretty well or theres something wrong with my vehicle. I tought that maybe these are common issues and you guys might know better. Thanks in advance!
Replace the timing guide tensioner . If that doesn’t solve the problem, sell it, or drive it till she blows.
@@berrymucuckiner4890 Thanks for replay!
I am pretty sure that timing chain has been done on particular engine. However I ll check this option.
I forgot to add that this rattle sound lasts for second or two, afterwards everything is smooth.
I’m not expert, but from reading a lot of forums sounds like the timing chain tensioners are not retaining any oil pressure, allowing the guides to release tension in the timing chain, hence the initial rattle till oil pressure builds. I bought two ome INA tensioners for about 60 Quid for my N62, the M62 only has one underneath the left bank looking from the rad towards the boot. Tim’s BMW has a video on replacing the tensioner, fairly easy job, just remember to pull the fuel pump fuse to prime the oil galleries on 1st start up after replacement
@@bobstacey9311 ok, thanks for advice!
behind each vanos solenoid are check valves, if your rattle is brief on startup it could be one of these and not necessarily your timing chain as the vanos unit drains back to the distribution piece. Also check you have the correct bmw filter and that it is fully home/pressed into the base of the housing as there is also a valve in there that needs to be fully seated
👍
Dig deeper. :)
Do you have M60 intake manifold? Or the one alpina used?
Also what headers you use? I think exhaust may be limiting point.
Have you done remap to your ECU? If you want I can help with ME7.2 flashing and tuning :)
4.6 is factory fitted with M60 intake
Keep digging. You won’t ever be happy if you don’t find out what’s going on.
Is the graph 296 hp at the wheels? or is it corrected for the crank? 4.6 motor is only 340 hp at the crank.
296 at crank
@@The777Garage Engine sounds smooth. Have you checked the ignition timing? Maybe it's losing ignition advance due to bad knock sensor or old gas. You did siphon gas from another car.
I think the exhaust design is the issue. For whatever reason the way vanos works I think it works with restrictions instead against it. The more I've opened my 4.4 exhaust (especially dual 2 1/4 pipe) I've lost torque unless I nail it to higher rpm
I know eddie i know!! 😆
Hey dude, I couldn't help but notice you're using the M62B44TU exhaust manifold on the B46 engine. This is very restrictive. Use the M62B44 non-Vanos headers instead, it could help make up some top end horsepower.
Anything under 340 wouldn't be acceptable to me. Its a 4.6 and should put out the power you expect! Dig deeper! Does it have the 4.6 DME? 3.15 sport diff? 4.6 intake manifold(non vanos)?
Yes 4.6 dme and rest of the stuff
@@The777Garage Why not compare a stock 4.6 x5 on the dyno to see a true comparison? I have an Imola red DINAN S2 4.6iS and would like to see its numbers on the dyno. Also if you say you're getting an intermittent camshaft error I would start looking there.
Did you end up using the N62TU 4.8iS Throttle body?
Question 340hp on the fly or on wheels from factory? And 298hp you have is on wheels as counting all transmission loss about 15% your hp numbers looks right.
298 at flywheel
Mint condition rear headlights. its very rare you found oem with mint condition just bought china new ones?
They genuine lights..the whole car is in mint condition..🙂
Man, it looks very classy car! You say that the differential is 2.93 , but the original is 3,53 ? The x5 (340hp) with what diff is ? I think you lose a lot of power there.. I will wait another series with that car!
2.93 diff atm
Diff aint changed the hp :) it change how you feel it :) but wont change crank hp :) only wheel hp
Hi, again me with question about shadowline, as You see here it is shiny not regular matt, so is it original or painted by owner or wrap?
Original gloss trim..comes from factory but optional
@@The777Garage thank You
E39 M5 drivetrain swap?
Im wanting original look
Hi I have a bmw e38 2.8l with alpina kit lowered. Bbs alloys for sale would you be interested?
Message on insta please
@@The777Garage ok
45 hp is 45 hp,stay digging,it be ecu,or exhaust issue,check teh katalitic converter of the donor car, i say there be the different,also the rear silencers,the X5 have different back pressure in the silencers,like the E38.
Ill come back to it ..at some point..i have few plans already where to look at and what to improve
Ahhhh, 298bhp at the wheels is about 340bhp at the crank…. The m62tu probably puts 250bhp at the wheels…
So, I think it’s about right for what you have bro
298 shows at crank
Squeeze it somehow, I run a stock 97 4.2 ABZ Audi engine which is 295, that Beemer desrves more...imo
You won’t get crank HP to the wheels. Vehicle Hp specs are rated on crank HP not wheel. My M62TU44B got 242hp/282TQ. You have 50 more HP than a 4.4, and altitude also matters.
Settle for no less than 347hp I reckon
what u need is a turbooo hahahha
298bhp is a no from me!!
That's less than 30 hp short of the 5.4L V12. Seriously? You oppose more horsepower, from BMW original/Alpina parts? Might be time to stop taking drugs.
Manual swap it...then you will have the ultimate E38
Manual in 7 series.
Most annoying crap ever
A manual is OP, but in 7 series I think the automatic gearbox is the thing.
I think you are missing atleast 30hp. Though I am not expert on these machines :)
That’s about right
Keep trying sunshine.E38 guru 😂😂makes me laugh
Im trying Kaz im trying 🤓
If u need power get s62, no way you will get any more satisfaction from this power plant. Just stay realistic mate.
No way I put manual tranny to 7 series
@@m5p944 Don't knock it till you try it! Open mind + trottle! You have good taste in cars Vlad,it is hard to drive anything else after you have had 7 series!
my advice.......supercharger ....
dislike because you didn't post the dyno results
11.12 🤦♂️
340 is not reachable. 315-320 is more realistic