Interesting to hear your recommendation on ignition, on the Stag Owners Club Forum there's currently a poll on the most reliable ignition and Lumenition is favourite, but many owners have had good (as well as less good) outcomes with other brands. This is a favourite topic of discussion !
I've just found it the most reliable, it arrives it fits and it works every time. I did have an amplifier fail recently, but that was an error on my part, not the lumenition.
I’ve had Lumenition on my TR7V8 since the conversion in 1991 and it’s been 100% reliable. Other systems claim to release extra power through providing a stronger spark but I haven’t put mine on a track day, yet, so haven’t been worried about that.
See the lumenition isn't a performance ignition at all, but a reliable system. On my rover v8 I used the dm8 distributor with an external amp pack from a chevy hpi, msd blaster coil and magnecor leads. It didn't increase power, but it did maintain a good spark even on nitrous and at high rpm. I changed to an msd digital 6 eventually but the results were no better
diff can be upgraded with a subaru diff.... but it can also be dramatically beefed up with a Quaiff LSD unit or aftermarket blackline unit. bolt on easy.
All my advice and knowledge comes from experience, mostly first hand. It's the joys of being poor lol i tried stuff I could afford rather than throwing the most expensive parts at stuff!
Why didn't they just paint them properly and wax oil them from new? The rest would evolve. as always, great vid. Did you ever find the TR7 place near Rawtenstall?
To RobertIronsdale The answer to why painting and waxoyling alone are not ENOUGH, is as follows. The really old, (pre- mass produced cars ) were made from IRON. IRON is a BASE metal, in other words PURE metal. Cars since then are made from STEEL. THIS is not a base metal, it's an ALLOY. (In otherwise a MIX of metals). When steel encounters WET, or even DAMP, it rusts. That's because the metals that make up the steel react against each other - and RUST! So the answer lies in how 95% of metalwork, from cars to spades, are produced TODAY. Have you ever heard of POWDERCOATING? The metal to be painted, is HEATED UP, and the paint is in powder form - and speayed onto HOT METAL. Then the powder paint melts, and sets onto the metal, forming an airtight coating - which keeps the rust out 3:17
Some interesting comments on here lol. First no I'd forgotten in all honesty my memory is awful at the moment lol. As for paint and wax oil well they just didn't I guess, knowledge has moved on as has corrosion resistance. I'm pretty sure cars weren't made of iron for more reasons than I can be bothered to type lol. Powder coating is over rated, it cracks, the moisture gets behind and rust expands pushing it off en block and I know from experience!
@BritSpit I didn't remove them, I cut the studs to the appropriate length for the nuts/wheels and luckily they slotted through I did a video on it, shows how I did it 👍
"They" can of course, but why compare these two? Now compare MGB and a TR4; a Spitfire and a MG Miget, but can't you get the sport car classes correct?
I think so yes, people seem to be trying to increase the value of tr7s, so a good one is becoming quite expensive. Plus parts for tr7s are quite difficult to obtain unfortunately and are therefore quite expensive compared to a spitfire.
@@nickyalousakis3851 They have never been top money in the UK. This makes them attractive to Rover V8 - better than factory TR8 conversions since the cars were designed to accommodate the RV8 from the very beginning. The later common underbody cars with the double hump bonnet, captive nuts for the forward mounted radiator and exhaust hangers down both sides of the car for the dual exhaust system make them easier to convert. Back in the day the UK had at least 3 companies offering professional TR7V8 / TR8 conversions and restorations.
Interesting to hear your recommendation on ignition, on the Stag Owners Club Forum there's currently a poll on the most reliable ignition and Lumenition is favourite, but many owners have had good (as well as less good) outcomes with other brands. This is a favourite topic of discussion !
I've just found it the most reliable, it arrives it fits and it works every time. I did have an amplifier fail recently, but that was an error on my part, not the lumenition.
I’ve had Lumenition on my TR7V8 since the conversion in 1991 and it’s been 100% reliable. Other systems claim to release extra power through providing a stronger spark but I haven’t put mine on a track day, yet, so haven’t been worried about that.
See the lumenition isn't a performance ignition at all, but a reliable system. On my rover v8 I used the dm8 distributor with an external amp pack from a chevy hpi, msd blaster coil and magnecor leads. It didn't increase power, but it did maintain a good spark even on nitrous and at high rpm. I changed to an msd digital 6 eventually but the results were no better
diff can be upgraded with a subaru diff.... but it can also be dramatically beefed up with a Quaiff LSD unit or aftermarket blackline unit. bolt on easy.
Very true, to be honest they are fine with standard power outputs and are all at least 50 years old, so haven't done bad usually!
Great video. I just bought a 77 Spitfire, found this very useful. Thanks
Much respect for your quick talking and direct approach drawing on your experience. A shame you’re not closer to North West London.
All my advice and knowledge comes from experience, mostly first hand. It's the joys of being poor lol i tried stuff I could afford rather than throwing the most expensive parts at stuff!
Why didn't they just paint them properly and wax oil them from new? The rest would evolve. as always, great vid.
Did you ever find the TR7 place near Rawtenstall?
To RobertIronsdale
The answer to why painting and waxoyling alone are not ENOUGH, is as follows.
The really old, (pre- mass produced cars ) were made from IRON.
IRON is a BASE metal, in other words PURE metal. Cars since then are made from STEEL. THIS is not a base metal, it's an ALLOY.
(In otherwise a MIX of metals).
When steel encounters WET, or even DAMP, it rusts. That's because the metals that make up the steel react against each other - and RUST!
So the answer lies in how 95% of metalwork, from cars to spades, are produced TODAY.
Have you ever heard of POWDERCOATING? The metal to be painted, is HEATED UP, and the paint is in powder form - and speayed onto HOT METAL. Then the powder paint melts, and sets onto the metal, forming an airtight coating - which keeps the rust out 3:17
@@nygelmiller5293until it cracks. Then it rots out from the back of the coating.
“Quite flexible” 🤣🤣🤣. Yes. That’s a very, very accurate summation.
Some interesting comments on here lol. First no I'd forgotten in all honesty my memory is awful at the moment lol. As for paint and wax oil well they just didn't I guess, knowledge has moved on as has corrosion resistance.
I'm pretty sure cars weren't made of iron for more reasons than I can be bothered to type lol.
Powder coating is over rated, it cracks, the moisture gets behind and rust expands pushing it off en block and I know from experience!
How did you find removing the rear hubs for the freelander studs? I broke two pullers doing mine!
@BritSpit I didn't remove them, I cut the studs to the appropriate length for the nuts/wheels and luckily they slotted through
I did a video on it, shows how I did it 👍
"They" can of course, but why compare these two? Now compare MGB and a TR4; a Spitfire and a MG Miget, but can't you get the sport car classes correct?
More affordable than a TR7?
I think so yes, people seem to be trying to increase the value of tr7s, so a good one is becoming quite expensive. Plus parts for tr7s are quite difficult to obtain unfortunately and are therefore quite expensive compared to a spitfire.
depends where you are. in north america TR-Sevens sell for very little money.
@@nickyalousakis3851 They have never been top money in the UK. This makes them attractive to Rover V8 - better than factory TR8 conversions since the cars were designed to accommodate the RV8 from the very beginning. The later common underbody cars with the double hump bonnet, captive nuts for the forward mounted radiator and exhaust hangers down both sides of the car for the dual exhaust system make them easier to convert. Back in the day the UK had at least 3 companies offering professional TR7V8 / TR8 conversions and restorations.