Thank you for this!!! Single mama here and our heat went out for almost a week. Figured out what was wrong and what needed to be replaced, but once the part came in I had literally zero idea on what to do. Your video was PERFECT, it walked me through step by step, and we now have heat. I cannot thank you enough!!!
@@ginamariesalvatori2342 I did, but it was a pain. This video explained everything perfectly and saved me, but I hope to never have to do it again lol.
Funny how men like myself will wake up at 1 a.m. sensing something is wrong with a lower temperature (6F drop) in the house. Here it is 4 a.m. and I have already ordered from the big A a new igniter with expected delivery in a day; I will have to do the work myself as it is too difficult to find a competent trustworthy service shop anymore. A non-contact voltage sensor showed AC voltage to the igniter but no inner glow as you show in your video. An ohm meter showed an open circuit; I would expect less than 200 ohms from online info. I will wear rubber gloves in case I accidentally touch the heater. Last year I had to replace the inducer fan. Thank you for this great helpful video.
This is huge. I just purchased a trailer with a decent Coleman furnace. The previous owner said the ignitor needed to be replaced. So this shows me what I need to do. Thanks.
Thanks for sharing this video as it helped me repair the igniter issue. I did notice at 6:30 into the video, when replacing the metal heat shield, it was installed backwards. Suggest updating your video as this may create a new issue with the protection (or lack of) provided by the heat shield.
This one uses natural gas most furnaces in the city will be natural gas but if you live in a rural area it could be propane it should say on the data plate or by the gas valve there should be a small metal tag on a screw by the gas valve that says natural gas or LP for propane thanks for watching 👍
From your experience in the field What brand is the best furnace you can buy for a mobile home ? In other words performance/ issues /part cost when they fail
I have a problem i did what you did worked fired up then smoke was coming out that wire hole panicked shut it off undid everything looked seemed fine went to run it again it sparked and kicked breaker i open it up 2x and ignition wire was touching side of furnace and basicly soudered itself i pull it off fixed it made sure nothing was touching. Started up again nothing happening now it blinking 3 times. Did i fuck up bad or if it fixable still i wasnt having pressure switch problems at first
Help! I have the same furnace, except my gas line is different, it's stiff and doesn't allow me to pull it away from the ignitor housing to access the flame sensor/etc - - how else could I access it?
This may sound stupid, but does that furnace use gas or propane? I recently bought a mobile home and it has a Coleman 7663, I called the gas company and they said they have no records of the home ever using gas, there is a propane tank in the back but not connected.
Quick question do I have to turn off the propane valve to do this? And also the breaker that powers the furnace unit? Or just the button on the circuit board like you did on 10:56 ?
MrLowrider3 You can just turn the power switch off to the furnace like I did if you feel more safe You can turn off the breaker no need to turn off propane
All of my furnace turns on but it stays on and doesn’t actually heat the house very much when it’s running for awhile I got look and the flame is out but it’s still blowing? what issue do you think this is I already changed the pilot like two three months ago 😞
The company I work for has a contractor license we get them from Johnstone Supply you can get them on eBay or Amazon just search Coleman long lead igniter
My company has a contractor license we get them from Johnstone Supply you can get them on eBay or Amazon just search Coleman long lead igniter for mobile home
thanks very much but my black "this little thing" is melted and I don't know how to order a new one any help finding out where to get a new one @DMAdventuresandHVAC
@@Victoryhomeservices209 If when and when I turn on thermostat to initiate heat....it takes about 5 min after the burner has been on for the blower to start blowing air. (Then) once it starts blowing air, the blower stops blowing air and shuts off for about 2 to 4 mins and then kicks back on and this happens the whole time. You feel like it could be the flame sensor??
@@Olivia07262007 sounds like it’s overheating or you have a problem with the fan limit switch how old is your furnace? Are the doors brown or are the white?
@@Victoryhomeservices209 Thank you for your response. My Coleman unit is in a mobile home and the doors a brown I believe it is from 1979 same age as home. I have a photo of the unit.
@Gino Camarillo it’s most likely your fan limit switch or relay that controls your blower motor if it keeps going off and on by itself does the burner keep the flame on? While the fan stops?
I have a pilot light, and I can't see any flame at the back. Just not sure how to test and find out what's wrong? It just all the sudden stopped working. The pilot won't light, and no appointment openings for a month unless I want to pay $200 for emergency service. Ugh
At my wits end for a fix so I thought I should ask here. I have a coleman dgaa070bdta natural gas furnace that keeps throwing the 4 flashing lights code for the limit switches. I have changed both and also have changed the control board thermostat and thermostat wires. It still throws the code so I'm not sure what else to do. Any help would be very appreciated. Thank you
@@Victoryhomeservices209 yes it will blow hot air for about 3 cycles then shuts off and throws the code. It will come back on after an hour or so and do it all over again.
@@chrisginter6211 it’s most likely overheating and tripping the high limit. I’m pretty sure the limits were OK it’s getting too hot. There’s either a blockage somewhere or the blower motor is not working correctly dirty filters, close registers plugged evaporator coil something like that.
I had a question my furnace ia almost identical to this one by the yellow wire coming from the themocouple is notconnected to anything where does it go
What indicated it was the igniter? My furnace calls for heat from the t-stat, I hear something buzzing on the furnace. I did change out the ignition controller but same issue, could my igniter be the issue?
I checked to see if there was 120v going to the igniter there was voltage going to it which means the igniter was bad if you don’t have voltage going to it that would be the circuit board
@@Victoryhomeservices209 mines doing sort of the same it's about 15-20 seconds repeats it about 3 times then stays off green light flashes once indicating ignition failure. Got that far yesterday when it wouldn't turn on and did the reset procedure even tho the green light was solid but no flame.
Terry Wunderlich yes I did ! I do that to protect the igniter as much as possible , less heat directly on the ceramic base extends the life been doing it that way for 10 + years.. the sleeve on the igniter aren’t as long as the factory ones so I keep them back by where the flames are to protect wires as much as possible thanks for watching 👍
Yeah I’m pretty sure you can find it on Amazon just search Coleman igniter make sure it’s the long lead so the wires reach all the way outside the burner compartment It’s a carbide igniter
The furnace was set up on natural gas mode and gas is propane:(but now its fixed for propane, however when it got pulled out there was alot black carbon(soot) around the area and the flame rod sensor was damage. The flame rod sensor got replaced and ignitor cleaned, there's glow but no flame. What else could be the issue?
If the igniter glows but no flame could be a bad gas valve or clogged burner or orfice there is a brass piece on the valve that needs to be unscrewed and turned in the direction for propane they come set from factory for natural gas
@@Victoryhomeservices209 they changed the orfice and brass piece to LP but if the gas valve is still defective. Is it possible that it could of been defective from the manufacturer? or because the orifice and the brass on the valve was not set to LP for two weeks when the furnace was installed & running?
Can a faulty gas valve that seems to be producing a bigger flame but doesn't seem to be very colorful blue but doesn't seem to have more than normal yellow tips, make real low flame rectification on the multimeter ? When the furnace gets to the point when the blower kicks on, it will instantly shut off the gas valve. On my multimeter it fluctuates anywhere between 0 at one point to 2.5 at the most but it fluctuates the whole time until the gas valve shuts off. Any help would really be appreciated ! Thank You Bob
I have cleaned the sensor which looked like new anyway because I just replaced it last year and the flame kind of looks like its its not touching the sensor all the time like its getting blown past it with the gas valve pressure or something. I can upload a short video so you can see it if you would really take the time. This definitely isn't the time of year for my furnace to give me issues !I have been messing with this furnace for a week now and figured out how I can keep the valve opened with unplugging the wires running to the valve and running a 24 volt wire from the transformer to the valve when the board calls for it to turn on by the relay and let the house warm up during the day and when it gets warm I unplug the gas valve to shut it down but I have to be awake when doing this so I cant run it while sleeping. Waiting for parts to get here like the valve which I really think it is. I already have a new board and sensor but don't want to install it until I install the valve first, so I can return them if not needed. Would this be asking too much if I was to upload a video of the flame and see what you think sir ? Thank You Bob
Yes ignition failure ... 1 flash but when I jump the valve with 24 volts then the board flashes 5 times which says gas valve energized with no call for heat which makes sense. I really APPRECIATE all your time trying to help me get this pile going ! :)
Typically when that happens it means your flame sensor is either dirty of failing, Mine did that it would start and then turn off after about 10 seconds it would repeat this 3 times then it would shut it self off. The easy way to help narrow it down is the furnace should have a diagnostic trouble light on the control box and it should flash a certain number of times to tell you wheat the problem is. I replaced my flame sensor and that fixed the issue my light code was 1 flash indicating ignition failure even thought you could clearly see the flame was burning which indicated that the flame sensor was faulty. Hope this helps
I just noticed Terry Wunderlich commented on the heat shield installed backwards from 2 years ago. Consider placing a warning on your video so others don't make the same error.
Hello Sr, I replaced the igniter but the big burner still doesn’t turn on, I tried turning on the fan by itself and it worked but not the burner, any idea?
@@Victoryhomeservices209 I took it out and put it back and it would turn on the fan but when it goes off and I try using the thermostat it still doesn’t work. Do you have any idea of what else it might be?
Can I use an ignitor with shorter leads? I have an ignitor that should work fine but the leads are only 5", I was going to cut the leads off the old ignitor and use wire nuts to connect the connecting part of the leads to my new ignitor.
Kris Krenn you can wire nut it but it will melt over time causing a short if you are going to use wire nuts it needs to be ceramic I would just buy the proper igniter so you don’t have any further problems check out amazon sonic cobray posted a link good luck!
I changed the limit switch because that's was the code it was giving me. I also replaced the ignitor and the furnace still doesn't blow heat. The flame is off and it's still giving me a code for the limit switch. Any ideas?
You started saying that if the flame don't go out of the circle, but never finished the sentence. Mine is not going out very much. And it blows cold air.
You could have a bad gas valve or circuit board if you can check to see if you’re getting 24 V to the gas valve you’ll need a multimeter also there could be a spiderweb stuck in the gas orfice I have a video about the spiderweb check it out spiderweb is very common
The main limit switch should be next to the circuit board box it’s a circle switch with two wires going in to it or there could be one up by the blower motor if it’s the auxiliary limit that limit is inside the furnace next to the heat exchanger which requires the whole furnace to be taken apart hope this helps
@@nctrnlmjsty8719 yeah one of your limit switches are bad or one needs to be reset some models have an auxiliary limit which is deep inside the furnace that you won’t be able to access if it is that limit that sometimes indicates that the chamber got too hot and there could be a possible crack
Thank you for this!!! Single mama here and our heat went out for almost a week. Figured out what was wrong and what needed to be replaced, but once the part came in I had literally zero idea on what to do. Your video was PERFECT, it walked me through step by step, and we now have heat. I cannot thank you enough!!!
I’m having that problem igniter won’t light after valve clicks, did you install new one yourself?
@@ginamariesalvatori2342 I did, but it was a pain. This video explained everything perfectly and saved me, but I hope to never have to do it again lol.
VERY helpful video THANK YOU. You helped me get the job done and heat back on. Not all heroes wear capes.
No problem anytime thanks for watching please subscribe will have more mobile home videos in the future
Thanks this was a big help, also thanks for not panning all over the place like some other videos do.
Funny how men like myself will wake up at 1 a.m. sensing something is wrong with a lower temperature (6F drop) in the house. Here it is 4 a.m. and I have already ordered from the big A a new igniter with expected delivery in a day; I will have to do the work myself as it is too difficult to find a competent trustworthy service shop anymore. A non-contact voltage sensor showed AC voltage to the igniter but no inner glow as you show in your video. An ohm meter showed an open circuit; I would expect less than 200 ohms from online info. I will wear rubber gloves in case I accidentally touch the heater. Last year I had to replace the inducer fan. Thank you for this great helpful video.
This is huge. I just purchased a trailer with a decent Coleman furnace. The previous owner said the ignitor needed to be replaced. So this shows me what I need to do. Thanks.
Thanks for sharing this video as it helped me repair the igniter issue. I did notice at 6:30 into the video, when replacing the metal heat shield, it was installed backwards. Suggest updating your video as this may create a new issue with the protection (or lack of) provided by the heat shield.
Great video! Thanks for sharing
This video was a true gem! Just like you! Thank you very much for putting this information out there for us!
This saved my butt in freezing temps. Thanks so much!!
Thank you i fixed the problem!! The snob repair man didn't want to come out.screw him !! Thanks again.
Thank you for the video 👍 saved me some $$$
Thanks for this man, I gotta change one out tomorrow and have never done it before.
This was a true life saver. Thank you!
Hey man thanks for your video I successfully replaced the igniter on my Coleman furnace. Great how to video!
Thank you for watching
Thanks saved me a pretty penny
Where can you buy the furnace igniter like the one used in the video?
Thanks, now I have to find an igniter.
Thank you SIR
God bless you 🤟🤟🤟🤟🤟
And rock on bro
Have you had any roof work done? If the burner goes out after it ignites could be combustion problem with the flue pipe...or a faulty flame sensor
any chance you could help me with finding the black little wire clip thing that you put around the wires and the panel
You have helped me so much! Can you tell me the part number?
Awesome tutorial im dealing with this problem myself. 😪 Is there a certain igniter I should get or are they universal?
This one uses natural gas most furnaces in the city will be natural gas but if you live in a rural area it could be propane it should say on the data plate or by the gas valve there should be a small metal tag on a screw by the gas valve that says natural gas or LP for propane thanks for watching 👍
Thinkin ya should've remover the orifice and made sure it was cleaned out COMPLETELY! I mean you were right there man!...
Bless you sir
From your experience in the field What brand is the best furnace you can buy for a mobile home ? In other words performance/ issues /part cost when they fail
Go with a Coleman stay away from nordyne and intertherm
I have a problem i did what you did worked fired up then smoke was coming out that wire hole panicked shut it off undid everything looked seemed fine went to run it again it sparked and kicked breaker i open it up 2x and ignition wire was touching side of furnace and basicly soudered itself i pull it off fixed it made sure nothing was touching. Started up again nothing happening now it blinking 3 times. Did i fuck up bad or if it fixable still i wasnt having pressure switch problems at first
@@fallenninja5239 yeah some damage could have occurred maybe the board went bad hard to tell when I’m not there working on it hope you get it good
Help! I have the same furnace, except my gas line is different, it's stiff and doesn't allow me to pull it away from the ignitor housing to access the flame sensor/etc - - how else could I access it?
This may sound stupid, but does that furnace use gas or propane? I recently bought a mobile home and it has a Coleman 7663, I called the gas company and they said they have no records of the home ever using gas, there is a propane tank in the back but not connected.
Quick question do I have to turn off the propane valve to do this? And also the breaker that powers the furnace unit?
Or just the button on the circuit board like you did on 10:56 ?
MrLowrider3 You can just turn the power switch off to the furnace like I did if you feel more safe You can turn off the breaker no need to turn off propane
DM Hvac ok thank you very much sir
nice job. thanks for sharing.
Thank you for watching!
What are the plastic things that hold the wires in the holes? Mine were melted and brittle so they broke. Do I need to replace them?
Yeah, it would be nice to replace them if you can if not put some metal tape over the holes
@@Victoryhomeservices209 I just rolled a bit of aluminum foil over the wires and formed it over the hole. But metal tape is a good idea!
All of my furnace turns on but it stays on and doesn’t actually heat the house very much when it’s running for awhile I got look and the flame is out but it’s still blowing? what issue do you think this is I already changed the pilot like two three months ago 😞
It could be a tripped high limit switch or you could have a spider web stuck in the gas orfice thanks for watching 👍
Dude awesome video! Exactly what I needed. Question... Where did you purchase the ignitors at? Any recommendations?
The company I work for has a contractor license we get them from Johnstone Supply you can get them on eBay or Amazon just search Coleman long lead igniter
My company has a contractor license we get them from Johnstone Supply you can get them on eBay or Amazon just search Coleman long lead igniter for mobile home
Thank you!!!
thanks very much but my black "this little thing" is melted and I don't know how to order a new one any help finding out where to get a new one @DMAdventuresandHVAC
Dude, awesome how to video. Would you mind if I ask you more questions regarding the Coleman mobile home furnace?
Not at all man I’d be glad to answer your questions
@@Victoryhomeservices209 If when and when I turn on thermostat to initiate heat....it takes about 5 min after the burner has been on for the blower to start blowing air. (Then) once it starts blowing air, the blower stops blowing air and shuts off for about 2 to 4 mins and then kicks back on and this happens the whole time.
You feel like it could be the flame sensor??
@@Olivia07262007 sounds like it’s overheating or you have a problem with the fan limit switch how old is your furnace? Are the doors brown or are the white?
@@Victoryhomeservices209 Thank you for your response. My Coleman unit is in a mobile home and the doors a brown I believe it is from 1979 same age as home. I have a photo of the unit.
@Gino Camarillo it’s most likely your fan limit switch or relay that controls your blower motor if it keeps going off and on by itself does the burner keep the flame on? While the fan stops?
I have a pilot light, and I can't see any flame at the back. Just not sure how to test and find out what's wrong? It just all the sudden stopped working. The pilot won't light, and no appointment openings for a month unless I want to pay $200 for emergency service. Ugh
If you can see if your getting 24 v to the gas valve could be bad thermocouple or gas valve try thermocouple first! Thanks for watching 👍
At my wits end for a fix so I thought I should ask here. I have a coleman dgaa070bdta natural gas furnace that keeps throwing the 4 flashing lights code for the limit switches. I have changed both and also have changed the control board thermostat and thermostat wires. It still throws the code so I'm not sure what else to do. Any help would be very appreciated. Thank you
Does your furnace have two little yellow wires that go up behind the blower motor?
@@Victoryhomeservices209 as far as I can tell it only has 2 small black wires behind the blower.
@@chrisginter6211 does the furnace run at all?
@@Victoryhomeservices209 yes it will blow hot air for about 3 cycles then shuts off and throws the code. It will come back on after an hour or so and do it all over again.
@@chrisginter6211 it’s most likely overheating and tripping the high limit. I’m pretty sure the limits were OK it’s getting too hot. There’s either a blockage somewhere or the blower motor is not working correctly dirty filters, close registers plugged evaporator coil something like that.
I had a question my furnace ia almost identical to this one by the yellow wire coming from the themocouple is notconnected to anything where does it go
That is your flame sensor it’s supposed to be connected to another yellow wire that leads to your circuit board unless somebody bypassed it
@@Victoryhomeservices209 could that be why my pilot light wont stay lite for more than 5 minutes?
@@juliamarie1195 yes that could be the problem
What indicated it was the igniter? My furnace calls for heat from the t-stat, I hear something buzzing on the furnace. I did change out the ignition controller but same issue, could my igniter be the issue?
I checked to see if there was 120v going to the igniter there was voltage going to it which means the igniter was bad if you don’t have voltage going to it that would be the circuit board
I changed mine, it glows but doesn't light. What do you recommend i do next?
Check to see if you have 24 volts to the gas valve if you don’t it could be a bad circuit board if you do have 24 v to the valve the valve is bad
How do you check the valve for 24 volts?
jd yarger you need a volt meter and you put the leads onto the wires going into the valve your meter should read 24v
I have my heater looks like this one.. the flame goes on but goes off after 4,-5 seconds ... what could be the problem? Any advices ?
Could be a few different things like bad flame sensor gas valve circuit board is your furnace electric ignition or standing pilot?
@@Victoryhomeservices209 mines doing sort of the same it's about 15-20 seconds repeats it about 3 times then stays off green light flashes once indicating ignition failure. Got that far yesterday when it wouldn't turn on and did the reset procedure even tho the green light was solid but no flame.
@@theconsigliere8463 you most likely have a bad igniter Or a gas valve or something could be clogged inside the orfice on the gas valve
You actually put that heat shield on the ignitor backwards. Also, the ignition sleeve insulation should have been in the strain relief.
Terry Wunderlich yes I did ! I do that to protect the igniter as much as possible , less heat directly on the ceramic base extends the life been doing it that way for 10 + years.. the sleeve on the igniter aren’t as long as the factory ones so I keep them back by where the flames are to protect wires as much as possible thanks for watching 👍
Can this part be purchased on Amazon??
Yeah I’m pretty sure you can find it on Amazon just search Coleman igniter make sure it’s the long lead so the wires reach all the way outside the burner compartment It’s a carbide igniter
The furnace was set up on natural gas mode and gas is propane:(but now its fixed for propane, however when it got pulled out there was alot black carbon(soot) around the area and the flame rod sensor was damage. The flame rod sensor got replaced and ignitor cleaned, there's glow but no flame. What else could be the issue?
If the igniter glows but no flame could be a bad gas valve or clogged burner or orfice there is a brass piece on the valve that needs to be unscrewed and turned in the direction for propane they come set from factory for natural gas
Also could be a bad circuit board
@@Victoryhomeservices209 they changed the orfice and brass piece to LP but if the gas valve is still defective. Is it possible that it could of been defective from the manufacturer? or because the orifice and the brass on the valve was not set to LP for two weeks when the furnace was installed & running?
vamsea ya could be defective from factory or damaged from running the wrong gas pressure
And if you have a propane tank in the back most likely it’s propane
Can a faulty gas valve that seems to be producing a bigger flame but doesn't seem to be very colorful blue but doesn't seem to have more than normal yellow tips, make real low flame rectification on the multimeter ? When the furnace gets to the point when the blower kicks on, it will instantly shut off the gas valve. On my multimeter it fluctuates anywhere between 0 at one point to 2.5 at the most but it fluctuates the whole time until the gas valve shuts off. Any help would really be appreciated !
Thank You
Bob
If you have very low flame rectification it could be a bad flame sensor or you need to clean it should have at least .5 micro amps for flame sensor
I have cleaned the sensor which looked like new anyway because I just replaced it last year and the flame kind of looks like its its not touching the sensor all the time like its getting blown past it with the gas valve pressure or something. I can upload a short video so you can see it if you would really take the time. This definitely isn't the time of year for my furnace to give me issues !I have been messing with this furnace for a week now and figured out how I can keep the valve opened with unplugging the wires running to the valve and running a 24 volt wire from the transformer to the valve when the board calls for it to turn on by the relay and let the house warm up during the day and when it gets warm I unplug the gas valve to shut it down but I have to be awake when doing this so I cant run it while sleeping. Waiting for parts to get here like the valve which I really think it is. I already have a new board and sensor but don't want to install it until I install the valve first, so I can return them if not needed. Would this be asking too much if I was to upload a video of the flame and see what you think sir ?
Thank You
Bob
@bobsheldonsr1108 go ahead and upload the video. I’ll take a look at it.
@bobsheldonsr1108 also is your circuit board giving any error codes when that happens?
Yes ignition failure ... 1 flash but when I jump the valve with 24 volts then the board flashes 5 times which says gas valve energized with no call for heat which makes sense. I really APPRECIATE all your time trying to help me get this pile going ! :)
Hi, thank you for sharing, i have a question, where can i buy a regulator, exactly like that? I need one, a soon is posible, thank you again
I would check eBay get the model number off the furnace I don’t think you can get in any store’s
@@Victoryhomeservices209 ok, thank you so much!
The valve should have a part number on it
Thank you again
My furnace ignites but the flames go out after about 15 seconds. Any ideas there??
Typically when that happens it means your flame sensor is either dirty of failing, Mine did that it would start and then turn off after about 10 seconds it would repeat this 3 times then it would shut it self off. The easy way to help narrow it down is the furnace should have a diagnostic trouble light on the control box and it should flash a certain number of times to tell you wheat the problem is. I replaced my flame sensor and that fixed the issue my light code was 1 flash indicating ignition failure even thought you could clearly see the flame was burning which indicated that the flame sensor was faulty. Hope this helps
I just noticed Terry Wunderlich commented on the heat shield installed backwards from 2 years ago. Consider placing a warning on your video so others don't make the same error.
Read the reply for the explanation
I have no glow and no flames any other ideas?
Could be either a bad circuit board, not sending voltage to your igniter or a bad pressure switch or your inducer motor might not be running
Hello Sr, I replaced the igniter but the big burner still doesn’t turn on, I tried turning on the fan by itself and it worked but not the burner, any idea?
Could be a bad gas valve or something stuck inside the orifice where the gas comes out
What brand ignitor did you use??
Source 1 is the brand name 120v
Make sure they have the long leads on the wires
@@Victoryhomeservices209 where are they available?? I cant find one in stores anywhere
eBay
Mine isn’t broken but it won’t turn on should I still replace it?
It’s a possibility that it could be bad but it also could be other parts that aren’t working replacing the igniter would be the cheapest to start
@@Victoryhomeservices209 the heat and air conditioning won’t turn on do you think it might be the thermostat that’s not working?
@@samanthaespinal1353 yes I would start with that if it still doesn’t work it could be the 3amp fuse in your furnace circuit board
@@Victoryhomeservices209 ok thank you!
@@Victoryhomeservices209 I took it out and put it back and it would turn on the fan but when it goes off and I try using the thermostat it still doesn’t work. Do you have any idea of what else it might be?
Hello, what is the name of the part you changed and in which store can I buy it?
It’s called a hot surface igniter long leads for Coleman furnace I get mine at Johnstone you can try amazon
Can I use an ignitor with shorter leads? I have an ignitor that should work fine but the leads are only 5", I was going to cut the leads off the old ignitor and use wire nuts to connect the connecting part of the leads to my new ignitor.
Kris Krenn you can wire nut it but it will melt over time causing a short if you are going to use wire nuts it needs to be ceramic I would just buy the proper igniter so you don’t have any further problems check out amazon sonic cobray posted a link good luck!
I didn't see how you reset it. My model number is DGAH077BBSB. After power outage it won't turn on
my furnace runs for 3 minutes and then shuts down and starts that cycle all over again....could this be the problem ?
I don’t think so it’s sounds like it could be overheating is it putting out heat into the home or is it cold air?
And when it's on and off ?
Not sure what you mean?
I changed the limit switch because that's was the code it was giving me. I also replaced the ignitor and the furnace still doesn't blow heat. The flame is off and it's still giving me a code for the limit switch. Any ideas?
Check the other limit switch up by the blower motor there’s a button you can push that’s the only other limit on the furnace besides the main limit
@@Victoryhomeservices209 thanks it worked.
@@Carnao06 make sure u have a carbon monoxide detector in the house those limit switches sometimes trip due to a crack or hole in the heat chamber
You started saying that if the flame don't go out of the circle, but never finished the sentence. Mine is not going out very much. And it blows cold air.
Did you get that figured out. lm having the same issue
I've had this happen a few times
👍🏿
my burner doesn’t stay on, it turns off and the pilot light goes off too
How old is your Coleman furnace? You have a pilot lite or hot surface igniter?
1996
I have glow but it won’t light
You could have a bad gas valve or circuit board if you can check to see if you’re getting 24 V to the gas valve you’ll need a multimeter also there could be a spiderweb stuck in the gas orfice I have a video about the spiderweb check it out spiderweb is very common
Walker Angela Hernandez William Rodriguez Gary
That’s not how are you take wires loose, use needle, nose, pliers, and get down on connector and pull now you ripped the wire out of it
Ahh, Yet another situation where bullshit eco electronic shit ruins the day. I miss the days of the trusty pilot light
Does anyone know of a video on this exact furnace or where I can find the limit switch
The main limit switch should be next to the circuit board box it’s a circle switch with two wires going in to it or there could be one up by the blower motor if it’s the auxiliary limit that limit is inside the furnace next to the heat exchanger which requires the whole furnace to be taken apart hope this helps
@DM HVAC getting 4 blinking lights says its the "limit switch open"
@@nctrnlmjsty8719 yeah one of your limit switches are bad or one needs to be reset some models have an auxiliary limit which is deep inside the furnace that you won’t be able to access if it is that limit that sometimes indicates that the chamber got too hot and there could be a possible crack