Turn Your Own Bespoke Pen Body Mandrel
Вставка
- Опубліковано 7 лип 2024
- I needed a mandrel for shaping the body of my latest Bespoke pen. Using a half inch diameter Aluminum rod, my HSS tools, and a wood lathe, I turned a custom mandrel that worked perfect for shaping the body of my pen.
Regards,
Bob
Bespoke Tool Listing:
drive.google.com/file/d/1hn5N...
Preparing Acrylic Blanks for Turning: • Preparing Acrylic Blan...
Preparing Wood Blanks for Turning: • Preparing Wood Blanks ...
My Info:
Facebook: / 992853487406788
Instagram: @RJBWoodturner
Twitter: @RJBWoodturner
E-Mail: RJBWoodturner@yahoo.com
Be sure to check out my second channel, WhatchaDoinBob, it’s a VLOG about what I’m doing at any given time. / whatchadoinbob - Навчання та стиль
Bob thanks for sharing with everyone I appreciate it.
Thank you Ray,
I’m happy you enjoyed the video.
Regards,
Bob
Nice job Bob. Patience always pays off.
Thank you Ray.
Regards,
Bob
Very helpful video Bob. Thank you
Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
Helpful tool turned out, excellent job Bob!
Thank you Kwstas, I’m really happy with it.
Regards,
Bob
Great work bob
Thank you Stephen.
Regards,
Bob
turned out great, the best tools are those you've made yourself to do the job you needed them for.... Custom is the way to go sometimes !
Thank you, I can see making mandrels for pens on a fairly regular basis.
Regards,
Bob
Nice one Bob . Love shop made tools. Take care.
Thank you Glen.
Regards,
Bob
Great video! I'm glad that you started posting kitless how-to stuff. It seems that most of us who have done pens for quite awhile are moving towards this.
It’s so fun, it’s all I want to work on. I’m loving the creative aspect of kitless.
Regards,
Bob
Great work Bob. Thumbs up my friend.
Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
nicely done!
Thank you Owen.
Regards,
Bob
Regardless of the industry, you sometimes have to make your own tools. Outstanding job.
Thank you Eddie.
Regards,
Bob
Thanks for this one Bob, I am wanting to build some Parker rollerball bespoke pens and I will make a mandrel copying this one. Good on you brother!!!
Thank you Don.
Refards,
Bob
Great tip and solution.
Thank you Joseph.
Regards,
Bob
Nice one Bob,always nice to solve a problem using our own skills👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you Alan.
Regards,
Bob
Being able to make your own mandrel is such an advantage.
I can see myself making many more ad I get more and more into bespoke pens.
Regards,
Bob
Nice work Rob :)
Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
Really good video Bob. Bespoke all the way. 😁
Thank you Mike.
Regards,
Bob
Very informative video and I see these pens in my future
Thank you Larry,
It’s great to have the perfect mandrel for the job.
Thank you for showing, I designed a support to turn
wood in my metal lathe, I see your ingenuity did the reverse, wood lathe
working metal. A little tip, the shuttering I think it is because you hold the
tool as you were working with wood, just change the up or down angle. Good
video, as always thank you, and have a nice day.
PS I purchase the Monarchs pen kits as you recommended from The classic nib when I receive them I will send you a pictures so you can give some good points.
That sounds great.
Regards,
Bob
Good stuff 👍
Thank you Steve.
Regards,
Bob
Good idea and good video. I like making things like this. I made a couple of Morse taper# 2 mandrels on my lathe. Fun to make. I used maple but I will try aluminum next. I used a file and sandpaper along with the regular lathe tools.
That’s cool, I hadn’t thought about making an AL Morse Taper.
Regards,
Bob
Great video Bob, never thought about using aluminum as a mandrel like this.
Thank you Gabe,
I also like Brass, it’s super easy to work with, just a bit more expensive.
Regards,
Bob
I agree with Mitchell. Machinists will shudder (and I did a bit, too) when they see you turning metal with wood implements. I used to make parts and adapters for cameras. But, hey, you got the job done and fine one it was. As they say, necessity is the mother of invention.
Thank you Steve.
Morning Bob! I guess there is a little machinist in all of us. Thank you for the heads up of not using fingers to remove chips. Best way is to shut off the lathe and remove chips with pliers. Great video
Thank you Ronald.
Regards,
Bob
Very good how to video thanks
Thank you Virgil.
Regards,
Bob
Looking good there Bob! Might wish to take your thin parting tool and cut a little relief at the collet end of the threads, will keep the shallowing of the threads at the very end from exerting outward pressure on the walls of the blank.
Good idea Bill. Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
good job nice video
Thank you.
Hi BOB, Nice work will be making some my self take care Y.N.W.A. Paul uk
Thank you Paul,
I see myself making them for special pen components as needed. There so simple.
Regards,
Bob
Bob if you rub chalk over your files the soft aluminium [or any other soft material] will not clog the teeth, and if you use pointer cutting tool [detail turning tool] it will cut faster and there will be less friction and heat, hope you find this helpful, Ian
Thank you Ian,
I find it very useful and will employ chalk on the next one for sure. Now to acquire a detail tool. Hmmmm.
Regards,
Bob
Bob it never fails to amaze me at how skilled and creative you are. Have you turned and polished an aluminum pen? I have a goal of turning a Tootsie Roll pen.
I haven’t yet but Its on my list. A tootsie roll pen sounds pretty awesome. I hope to give it a try.
Regards,
Bob
Hay Bob I was wondering if you might be better off using a little cutting oil 🛢 on Aluminum its just an idea only. 💡 anyway need to get back to your video.
Hello Ray,
That is an older video, I definitely use cutting oil now. 😀
Regards,
Bob
Nice video, I'm new to this kittles pen and would like to know which die you use for the threading of the Mandrel
THANK YOU
Here’s a list o the tools I use for Bespoke pen turning:
drive.google.com/file/d/1hn5NwMEyKY8RsDuvUk67lnjb54O-sSGA/view?usp=drivesdk
I use a m10x1 tap for the hole in the body so I use that size die for the mandrel.
Regards,
Bob
Oh my Bob. I didn't know you had a little machinist in ya. ;) I love it. Did ya catch the bug? Huh? Did ya? Alright, next shop tool purchase is a milling machine. :) lol. I think I should introduce you to a few folks on the metal side of UA-cam. Awesome community here for machinists and like minded. Honestly, since I took that machine too lcourse a couple years ago, I find myself watching far more metalworking than woodworking. I'm a traitor, I know. Lol. As for this project, it came out very good considering the tooling and machinery available. The chatter was due to lack in rigidity. The tailstock support helped that, but free hand tooling is still the weak point in the setup. (Nothing files and sandpaper can't cure). When filing metal, long slow strokes are ideal. Don't be afraid to use the whole length of the file if you can safely do so, and check it often as the shallow gullets on the file teeth load up quickly. Especially with aluminum which is more gummy to machine than steel. All and all, great project and a great solution to your shop needs. Oh, and welcome to the dark side. :D
LOL, Thank you. I appreciate all the tips. I can see myself making many more of these little jigs as I move forward with this hobby.
Regards,
Bob
Very nice, Bob. What grade aluminum did you use?
I’ll be honest, I don’t know. I just went to eBay and bought 4 x 12” x 1/2” rods. They were the best price I could find
Now you should make an aluminum bespoke pen.
LOL, don’t think I haven’t thought about it.
Regards,
Bob
Very interesting use of the word lathe. When turning metals the formula is CSx4/D where CS is the cutting speed which is a constant number that can be found on charts. D represents the diameter of the material ( or cutter if milling). Aluminum CS is going to be about 300 (various charts will vary from about 250 to 350 and experienced machinists will adjust depending on the specific alloy). I only say this because you slowed down your lathe and probably should have increased the speed. 300x4/.5=2400. That said I sure can't argue with the very nice result you achieved. Another little trick I'll pass on: when filing aluminum, or any metal for that matter, but especially aluminum, before using the file drag a piece of chalk over the file. This embeds the chalk in the deep recesses of the file and block the metal fragments from becoming embedded in those recesses and clogging the file.
Hmm, didn't proof before I hit post. Word lathe should be wood lathe.
Thank you Steve,
I’ll be making more when necessity arises so this is good information.
Regards,
Bob
RJBWoodTurner one problem I have with my comet Nova II ( I think you have that lathe too) is a rather sloppy fit of the tailstock on the bed. There are several degrees of rotation and this can result in turning a slight taper unless you just happen to get lucky when you tighten the tailstock down. I haven't had the opportunity to look at/feel any other of these Oates. Does your machine have this?
I was only borrowing the Nova, I have a Turncrafter Commander. There is a tiny bit of play but not to bad.
You can make me one!
You really need to make it when you start turning. I bought a set and had to make my own anyway because every pen is different. I am constantly making new ones and modifying existing mandrels.
Regards,
Bob
And with that, I'm off to find an aluminum rod.
Thank you Jon.
Regards,
Bob
Don't be sucking that aluminum up in your dust collector either, it'll nicely wind itself around the impeller in your collector. Those long shavings are exactly what you want when turning metal....and yes those shavings are extremely sharp, and always...always turn the lathe off when removing those shavings, they're nothing like wood shavings, They will catch on anything and everything. I keep a small paintbrush by the metal working lathe for the purpose of brushing those shavings away...a stiff brush is a must, those really soft bristle brushes don't work very well.
Thank you William.
Regards,
Bob
Kind of found out the hard way with mine trying to pull all that stuff out of the impeller wasn't fun HAHA!!!
Thank you for the heads up.
No problem. Figured I'd give my experience and possibly save you the trouble of having to tear your dust collector apart.
I want to make a kitless fountain pen without the threaded crap, do people do that?
Yes, think of the Bic pen where the ink slides into the end of the pen. You could turn that to any shape you wanted.
Regards,
Bob
RJBWoodTurner Thanks for the quick reply, I can tell you know your stuff. I don’t know as much about nibs and the ink cartridges as I wish I did, but can you buy just those (quality ones) and then just brass tubes for supporting the wood barrel and the part that slides into the brass barrel and screws onto the bib without spending 14 bucks per kit at woodcraft?
You can purchase just tubes and other parts. I use to purchase them off eBay (nibs, clips, transmissions, caps, and tubes) are all sold separately. You just have to make sure you purchase comparable sized parts and usually you have to purchase in bulk.
Regards,
Bob
I never know that you could turn aluminium on a wood lathe
As long as you go slow. It dulls the tool quickly.
Regards,
Bob
You can, aluminum is soft enough, and if you want to do so I'd recommend getting carbide tools if you aren't already using them, unless you really enjoy sharpening your HSS tools...for occasional aluminum turning its fine, but if you want to do it very frequently a lathe upgrade to a metal working lathe might be a good idea...or an investment in carbide tools like I mentioned earlier. I hate spending all my time sharpening tools so I don't even bother keeping HSS tools around the shop anymore.
Carbide would be better for the Aluminum turning, plus it’s a cheaper initial investment because you won’t need a sharpening system. Once you get a system and learn to sharpen, you’ll get a much sharper tool with HSS. Carbide scrapes while HSS cuts. I can make a finishing but with it that requires little to no sanding. Join a club and try both types of tools. Make the decision which is better for you that way. Everyone has a preference and there’s no substitute for experience.
Regards,
Bob
I agree, I just got tired of having to sharpen the HSS tools and got rid of them. I finally had to replace the carbide cutter on my carbide chisel last month after several hundred pens and other turning projects, and the cutters I got from AZCarbide and they were like $14 for 2 cutters which have 4 cutting edges so you really get 8 cutters for $14.
The HSS is fine if you aren't turning very often, when I go out to the shop to work on a project I don't want to spend my time sharpening my tools LOL.
@@wildbill23c why do we use HSS on our metal lathes ?Oyea iturns better carbide leaves rough in AL as well as wood.
Aren't you afraid of all the hate you are going to get from the machinists. :)
Oh and I would love a small metal lathe to make little stuff like this.
Not at all, there are several machinists who follow me and they have always been super helpful and supportive.
I would too, maybe one day.
Yes but now you are moving into their domain. ;)
LOL, I’m truly interested in what they have to say. I’d love a metal lathe one of these days.