Great job on the video Jon - this is the kind of DIY that helps out (short, sped up for the parts that don't need normal speed, setup with tools needed, good title, and simple descriptions on how and why you do things when needed) If I do a DIY - I will be using your format! Couple efficiencies I would suggest to add for this process (one already mentioned, use the old brake pad to push the piston back - eliminated the need for washer / the other is use a syringe to pull out some of the brake fluid and it won't overfill and leak onto your car and driveway > then you just put it back in when done)
I feel like a mechanic already. Ready do do this on my own. Great video on the illustration, on the precise way to do it and the commentaries. Love it. Thanks
Thanks man helped me save a bunch of $$. I gotta move down south and get away from all this road salt. Sick of dealing with rust, makes everything take 2x as long.
Good quality instruction, good editing of time taken with individual tasks so as to not waste time, good vid overall. +1 on the comment(s) about anti-seize, I LOVE the stuff (heck, I'd even put it on pancakes if I could). The anti-rattle clips along with their surfaces, the rotor screws, & the threaded rotor removal holes should get some. I also put a light film of it on the onboard rotor surface, where it mates with the spindle, so if you need it off again it'll move. +1 on the use of the old inboard pad to push the caliper piston back in, it's garbage anyway. +1 on making sure you don't get brake fluid on anything, horrible for paint. You can even take the step of sucking out some of that nasty, old brake fluid thru the reservoir before adding. Me? I'd not hammer on a wrench to loosen bolts. Rather, find a way to use a longer ratchet, maybe with a flexible head (or a "cheater"), & a 6 PT. socket. ONLY silicone grease on the caliper slide bolts where it'll contact the protective rubber boots (petroleum-based lubes destroy rubber). AND. . . don't forget to put medium duty threadlock on the mounting bolts on reassembly. Thanks for the vid, again.
nice quick job, also you should re lubricate the caliper pin bolts, and if you don't have the tool to push the brake piston in, you can use a large C- clamp with the old brake pad and push the piston in that way.
@4:38 the brake fluid comes out. Thanks for the video, had I not watched this ahead of time I would not have known I needed an impact screwdriver, which I don't own! Got one now tho. I use the old pads with the spreader to push the caliper in.
I have an 05 Honda Accord that's been sitting (needs new battery, motor mounts, and rotors/brakes) I've had the interior completely redone and keep it covered but I had noticed the same pulse in my break pedal. Hopefully once I've replaced both front and rear rotors/brake pads that feeling in my brake pedal will go away. It's turned into a project car but for its age the interior and exterior look perfect. It's when you drive it that you can tell it needs some tlc lol thanks for this video
Nice video except 2 things: 1) when you're pushing the caliper piston back in, use the old brake pad to push against. that way you don't need the spacer. Just place the old pad against the piston. 2) You don't want the brake fluid spilling all over the car as it will take off the paint - I keep an eye on the reservoir and remove any if it looks like it will spill out when compressing the caliper piston. Well done though.
The other method instead of banging on the rotor is to have two 8mm 1.25 bolts and screw them into the "other" unused holes on the rotor and it pops the rotor right off
Good video. I place a wad of paper towels around the brake fluid reservoir to catch the fluid. Also, I use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts to spec. Lastly, an inexpensive brake fluid water content tool will determine if a brake system flush is in order and spraying the area before working with brake cleaner reduces the chance of inhaling that nasty dust....and maybe kills Coronavirus. Hahahaha.
You don't show where to clean or grease everything, including the slide pins or the antiseize. You also don't discuss cleaning the rotors as is now recommended by all manufacturers. Good overview of general process but just not truly steep by step.
There is a quicker way. You don't have to remove the guide pins. Just take the whole thing off after removing the two large 18 mm screws and take the whole bracket off and clean the guide pins on the bracket, and then push the piston out and then put the pads in the bracket and mount the whole bracket back on the rotor. Just make sure you push the piston all the way back or you would not have enough room to slide the bracket with the pads onto the rotor. No need to take INDIVIDUAL guide pins out....
I did this now my brakes heat up due to them being to tight. Its like driving while pressing the brakes. I jacked up the car and the front tires wouldnt rotate. If i tighten one the other wont rotate. Some advice please.
Last time I changed my break pads I changed the brake oil..im trying to change my rotor and pads by myself do I need to changed it again and bleed them?
Yes, to accommodate the larger thickness of the new pads and rotors. You won't be able to get the caliper back on if you leave it where it is when you first disassemble everything.
I have a question in order to replace the rotors do I have to buy new brake pads as well ? Or can I replace my rotors and keep the same break pads if they are still good ? Help
hey bro i got my car running my distributor timming was 180 off but now my iacv is bad cuz i unplug it and it idles perfect so i was wondering if u have a spare iacv for a b18 manifold
+Jon Widmer yeah bro i did all that and also wen i disconnect it it idles at 800 and wen i plug it in it idles from 800 to 1200 and back down and i already bled the coolant completly
+Alejandro Marquez It may be broken then. I'm not sure if you removed it to test it, but you can remove it and apply power and a ground and you'll here the plunger shoot back and forth. You may want to also check the FITV and clean it also.
No fucks given about the maintenance on the brakes and rotors no grease, wire brush cleaning, anti seize nor silicone straight Savage other than that good job good buddy 🤣😂
I really like the products from Detroit Axle. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07M91JDZC/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=jrw2018-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B07M91JDZC&linkId=2f3e1d38d308d9ce4294d2fd8055cc2b
People like to put grease on the backside of the pad where it meets the piston. I don't like to because I live in the desert and we don't experience snow or road salts ever.
@@GarageBuiltHondas I am going to attempt my first brake installation on a 2004 Honda Accord based off of your instruction. I will not be doing the roters, strictly pads. My question is, all these silver metal clamps that accompany the new brakes; How do you apply these?
@@GarageBuiltHondas Lol nevermind about the metal clamps. Self explanatory once involved. I did however run into a troubling issue; both caliper screws snapped inside of their pins upon me unscrewing them out. Both pins came out too. One pin has a small black rubber piece around the end tip of it while the other is pure metal. Which pin goes on top and which pin goes on bottom?
Great job on the video Jon - this is the kind of DIY that helps out (short, sped up for the parts that don't need normal speed, setup with tools needed, good title, and simple descriptions on how and why you do things when needed) If I do a DIY - I will be using your format!
Couple efficiencies I would suggest to add for this process (one already mentioned, use the old brake pad to push the piston back - eliminated the need for washer / the other is use a syringe to pull out some of the brake fluid and it won't overfill and leak onto your car and driveway > then you just put it back in when done)
Jason Bowne Thanks, and great suggestions. I appreciate the comment/feedback!!
I feel like a mechanic already. Ready do do this on my own. Great video on the illustration, on the precise way to do it and the commentaries. Love it. Thanks
Thank you!
Thanks man helped me save a bunch of $$. I gotta move down south and get away from all this road salt. Sick of dealing with rust, makes everything take 2x as long.
Good quality instruction, good editing of time taken with individual tasks so as to not waste time, good vid overall.
+1 on the comment(s) about anti-seize, I LOVE the stuff (heck, I'd even put it on pancakes if I could). The anti-rattle clips along with their surfaces, the rotor screws, & the threaded rotor removal holes should get some. I also put a light film of it on the onboard rotor surface, where it mates with the spindle, so if you need it off again it'll move.
+1 on the use of the old inboard pad to push the caliper piston back in, it's garbage anyway.
+1 on making sure you don't get brake fluid on anything, horrible for paint. You can even take the step of sucking out some of that nasty, old brake fluid thru the reservoir before adding.
Me? I'd not hammer on a wrench to loosen bolts. Rather, find a way to use a longer ratchet, maybe with a flexible head (or a "cheater"), & a 6 PT. socket.
ONLY silicone grease on the caliper slide bolts where it'll contact the protective rubber boots (petroleum-based lubes destroy rubber).
AND. . . don't forget to put medium duty threadlock on the mounting bolts on reassembly.
Thanks for the vid, again.
nice quick job, also you should re lubricate the caliper pin bolts, and if you don't have the tool to push the brake piston in, you can use a large C- clamp with the old brake pad and push the piston in that way.
Im doing it right now and your video really help me out. TY from Portugal 🇵🇹
Love to hear!
@4:38 the brake fluid comes out. Thanks for the video, had I not watched this ahead of time I would not have known I needed an impact screwdriver, which I don't own! Got one now tho. I use the old pads with the spreader to push the caliper in.
I have an 05 Honda Accord that's been sitting (needs new battery, motor mounts, and rotors/brakes) I've had the interior completely redone and keep it covered but I had noticed the same pulse in my break pedal. Hopefully once I've replaced both front and rear rotors/brake pads that feeling in my brake pedal will go away. It's turned into a project car but for its age the interior and exterior look perfect. It's when you drive it that you can tell it needs some tlc lol thanks for this video
Good luck!
Thank you for posting this video! This is my job tomorrow!
You're welcome, good luck!
You forgot to show when you greased the new pads and cleaned off the new rotor from factory oil. Or did you forget to do this?
Excellent video! Thank you! You saved me so much time. Great job!
Glad it helped!
One more tip - put some anti-seize on those rotor screws and removal next time will be easy.
bobwhite137 👍
Nice video except 2 things:
1) when you're pushing the caliper piston back in, use the old brake pad to push against. that way you don't need the spacer. Just place the old pad against the piston. 2) You don't want the brake fluid spilling all over the car as it will take off the paint - I keep an eye on the reservoir and remove any if it looks like it will spill out when compressing the caliper piston. Well done though.
Great input, I love it! Thanks for this!!
Great video! Simple and to the point. Thank you for helping those of us trying to save a few bucks.
👍
Thanks! Good work & thorough explanation!!
👍
Did you not grease the slide pins or the ends of the pads where they slide back and forth?
Turn around and shut up
Sumtingwong Richard lmao
Its fine.
The other method instead of banging on the rotor is to have two 8mm 1.25 bolts and screw them into the "other" unused holes on the rotor and it pops the rotor right off
Good tip!!
Flying shards? Is that like flying monkeys lol
another easy to follow and in depth walkthrough. keep em coming!
Thanks, it's been a busy last couple weeks so that's the last for the meantime. lol
Thank you, you told me everything I need to know.
👍
Good video. I place a wad of paper towels around the brake fluid reservoir to catch the fluid. Also, I use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts to spec. Lastly, an inexpensive brake fluid water content tool will determine if a brake system flush is in order and spraying the area before working with brake cleaner reduces the chance of inhaling that nasty dust....and maybe kills Coronavirus. Hahahaha.
Thanks for the excellent tips!!
Appreciate you brother !!!
Awesome video!
Thanks
No thank you sir. Best car tutorial ever.
👍🏻
Great work Sir.
Nice video, thanks dude
👍
Good video. Good job.
Thanks for watching!
Do you need to take off the emergency brake before taking off the brakes
Yes. Otherwise the pads will be compressed to the rotor
Nice and simple
👍
Great tutorial video, thanks, do you know what size the brake bleed nipple is?
Don't remember but believe it is a 10mm.
Garage Built Hondas should you change the brake fluid and bleed the line before or after you change the brake pads
Nice man
Don't forget to lube the rotor retaining screws with some antiseize compound or it will be a sin to take them off the next time around.....
+trankt54155 got it!!
Thank you very much for your help.
You're welcome
I can't get the rotor screws off even with an impact wrench and wd40. They're completely rusted. Is there something else I can try?
Are you replacing the rotors completely?
@@GarageBuiltHondas yes
Use a Dremel or grinder and grind the head of the screw down enough where the rotor just slides off.
Good video
Thank you
You don't show where to clean or grease everything, including the slide pins or the antiseize. You also don't discuss cleaning the rotors as is now recommended by all manufacturers. Good overview of general process but just not truly steep by step.
Cry about it some more please. Why not stick to making sandwiches?!
Hey question , to change the rear pads and rotors . it’ll be the same ?
Yes
No, but there's a video on this same channel on how to do the rear.
What’s the disk thing behind the rotor?
Dust shield
Use new bolts to hold the calipers to the brackets, apply blue locktite and torque appropriately.
Both 17 mm bolts are not budging on either side. The most I can do right now is change the pads
Try a wrench with a hammer
@@GarageBuiltHondas that’s what I was missing. You’re the best!
There is a quicker way. You don't have to remove the guide pins. Just take the whole thing off after removing the two large 18 mm screws and take the whole bracket off and clean the guide pins on the bracket, and then push the piston out and then put the pads in the bracket and mount the whole bracket back on the rotor. Just make sure you push the piston all the way back or you would not have enough room to slide the bracket with the pads onto the rotor. No need to take INDIVIDUAL guide pins out....
+trankt54155 Thanks for the great tip!!
Good stuff!
Thanks man!
Is there a way to push the piston back in with out a tool
No. You'll need a screwdriver at least. Unless you have really strong hands.
How are these holding up?
No issues
Where did u get that tool too push ur caliper back in...or the name of it...
Any auto parts store. It's intentionally made to push the brake piston back in usually called a caliper piston tool.
Do i need an alignment when the car when steers to the right and do you have video for that
Depends, could be worn out or an underinflated tire. Is the suspension fresh? Tie rods in good shape?
I did this now my brakes heat up due to them being to tight. Its like driving while pressing the brakes. I jacked up the car and the front tires wouldnt rotate. If i tighten one the other wont rotate. Some advice please.
+lupe madrigal You pushed the Pistons in on all 4 calipers before added new rotors & pads?
Thanks
👍
Question: is there a reason the brake line wasn’t bled, or is it unnecessary ?
Its not necessary.
Do you remember what was torque for the bracket and the caliber bolts?
I don't recall, sorry.
Last time I changed my break pads I changed the brake oil..im trying to change my rotor and pads by myself do I need to changed it again and bleed them?
Only if it's the required time between intervals of flushing thr brake fluid.
Very nice video besides u didn’t do the cleaning and lubing part
You're right. 👍
i couldnt get those damn rotor screws out to save my life
What type of brakes to buy for my Honda accord 2003 cm4
Whichever you choose. Your local auto parts store probably had a few options.
What is your rotors size 282 cm or 300 I don't want to buy the wrong rotor
+Melvin Guerra I'm not sure on size. I bought the rotors that were made for an 03 Accord EX and they fit perfect.
So the piston why you do it? Does it always have to be done when you do the change of brakes?
Yes, to accommodate the larger thickness of the new pads and rotors. You won't be able to get the caliper back on if you leave it where it is when you first disassemble everything.
Thank you, sir.
👍
I have a question in order to replace the rotors do I have to buy new brake pads as well ? Or can I replace my rotors and keep the same break pads if they are still good ? Help
No, you can use the old brake pads, they'll be just fine.
No you do not, the old brake pads will be fine.
Okay thank you !
Or you can use an old pad to push the piston back in.
Not in a long time..
Torque for the caliper and bracket bolts?
From the service manual and V6 supplement.
V6 :
Front
Caliper bracket 79.6 ftlbs
Pin bolts 37 ftlbs
Rear
Caliper bracket 41 ftlbs
Pin bolts 17 ftlbs
I4
Front
Caliper bracket 79.6 ftlbs
Pin bolts 26 ftlbs
Rear
Caliper bracket 41 ftlbs
Pin bolts 17 ftlbs
Thanks for the quick response.
hey bro i got my car running my distributor timming was 180 off but now my iacv is bad cuz i unplug it and it idles perfect so i was wondering if u have a spare iacv for a b18 manifold
Did you test the iacv? Did you also clean it?
+Jon Widmer yeah bro i did all that and also wen i disconnect it it idles at 800 and wen i plug it in it idles from 800 to 1200 and back down and i already bled the coolant completly
+Alejandro Marquez It may be broken then. I'm not sure if you removed it to test it, but you can remove it and apply power and a ground and you'll here the plunger shoot back and forth. You may want to also check the FITV and clean it also.
Where u put the wrench on the boot for it not to turn?
There's a nut on the end of it. You'll see the 6 sides.
Can i put the brake rotors back with out the screws?
+rafael moza yes
is it me or the 1st rotor screw turns righty to loosen? The 2nd screw turns left to loosen. Time 1:15
No fucks given about the maintenance on the brakes and rotors no grease, wire brush cleaning, anti seize nor silicone straight Savage other than that good job good buddy 🤣😂
You forgot to service the caliper bracket pins.
Why did you have to push the piston back in?
It's made specifically for this. Grab one at your local auto parts store. Just ask for the brake piston tool.
Otherwise it wont fit back on
Where can I get 4 rotors for my honda accord 2004
I really like the products from Detroit Axle. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07M91JDZC/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=jrw2018-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B07M91JDZC&linkId=2f3e1d38d308d9ce4294d2fd8055cc2b
Garage Built Hondas thanks for sharing both how to video and parts 💯
You're welcome
I did this after seeing this video and they came off like lego pieces
Nice
helpful.
👍🏻
About how much for that job?
From where?
How much do you charge for that job?
Front and rear?
Yes
I do it for $60
You didn't have to bleed the brakes?
+Carlos Romero no, the lines were not opened.
How do I close them to prevent from having to bleed them?
+Carlos Romero close what?
Garage Built Hondas the lines
+Carlos Romero why were they opened? This process doesn't require opening any of the brake lines.
My pads & rotors smoked
+Dale Curiel Got your money's worth!!
You forgot to put grease on the pads....tsk tsk tsk
Yeah, my bad!
What do you mean, "forgot to put grease on pads??"
Is this necessary? When and where?
People like to put grease on the backside of the pad where it meets the piston. I don't like to because I live in the desert and we don't experience snow or road salts ever.
@@GarageBuiltHondas I am going to attempt my first brake installation on a 2004 Honda Accord based off of your instruction. I will not be doing the roters, strictly pads.
My question is, all these silver metal clamps that accompany the new brakes; How do you apply these?
@@GarageBuiltHondas Lol nevermind about the metal clamps. Self explanatory once involved.
I did however run into a troubling issue; both caliper screws snapped inside of their pins upon me unscrewing them out. Both pins came out too. One pin has a small black rubber piece around the end tip of it while the other is pure metal. Which pin goes on top and which pin goes on bottom?
Well done!! Thank you
You're welcome