*Tools and Parts* This channel earns a small commission using some of these links - at no additional cost to you Pump for Brake Fluid: amzn.to/2LnCGdb Akebono Front Brake Pads: amzn.to/2ZIYwgl Centric Front Rotors: amzn.to/2zSSCyF OTC Hub Resurface Kit: amzn.to/2MPHeeh Milwaukee 3/8" Impact Wrench: amzn.to/2NPKwPC 3M Silicone Paste: amzn.to/2HIWBT7 Permatex Brake Lube: amzn.to/2LhbVse Fluid Film: amzn.to/2MRLzin Brake Cleaner: amzn.to/2LkofI9 Lisle Brake Pad Spreader: amzn.to/2LgOWNW Caliper Wind Back Tool: amzn.to/2LsAqBH Impact Driver for JIS Rotor Screws: amzn.to/2ZNnVWm The Big Dog 50001 Automotive Channel Store can be found here: www.amazon.com/shop/bigdog50001automotive
Like many have said...what a phenomenal job of explaining a brake job. I have been watching other videos of mechanics doing brakes because iI'm going to do mine myself for the first time. It never fails, if you watch more than one video you will always pick up additional information that someone didn't include. I can honestly say this video is leaps and bounds more thorough than anything I have seen to date and I have watched several. I'm confident I now know how to do this correctly. Thank you. I just subbed and I'm hoping you have other Honda Accord related information. Mine is a 2003 with 355 thousand on it. I work for Honda and drive 80 miles a day there and back.
This guy is the best. I’m about to do my brakes too and immediately said let me see what big dogs got to say about it. Changed my starter motor in august using his tutorial and guidance and it was easy and the car is doing great
So, I just changed all my calipers, rotors and pads and bled my fluid on my 09 Accord and all Ive ever done is change my own oil. Ive never even seen someone do brakes before besides on UA-cam. It went great and your video was extremely helpful to the whole process. Thank you so much!
Had issues with OEM pads on my 2009 Accord. Issues with OEM pads and rotors on 2013 Accord. You are always very thorough. I now have a 2020 (10th gen) Honda Accord EX-L (2.0T). They hid the front and rear jacking points. The brakes are different too. Would be nice to see a video on 10th gen. Keep on keepin on.👍
I have a 2012 honda odessey and my friend who is a honda mechanic said that the original rortors were defective and and the new ones you buy at honda are the upgraded version. Very impressive video! Your a good example of how the job should be done and not rushing through it.
Always a big fan of your videos. I have the same car and watching these videos makes me want to work on my car. Your videos are informative and show "how to" do things correctly, especially since you offer advise and teach a few things as well like why that brush is twisted; to get the rest at the bottom of the bottle. Awesome. Great videos
I've watched so many of your videos and you have taught me how to fix so many things on my Honda's, I just want to thank you for all of your content. This brake job video is no exception, great instructions. One question I had was...is it necessary to put back those two little screws on the rotor? I've heard they put those on at the factory just to keep the rotors on during the assembly process. Would it cause any issue to just leave them off? Again, thanks for taking your time to make all of this great content!!
Thank you so much for clearing up the Honda brake vibration, I was driving myself crazy. I really thought I really did something wrong. I cleaned and wirebrushed the hub to death, anti-seized the rotor where the rim meets the rotor....Now i know it's an inherent problem. Thank you sir. BTW, the torque specs are 80 pound/feet for the lugs.
good video. As an extra prep step, I always take Emory Cloth (yes that sandpaper material used in plumbing), and rough up the disc surface using water & small circular motions with the cloth. It helps in breaking-in the brakes faster. Yes the disc makers sell rotors with that cross-hatch pattern that's supposed to speed-up the break-in time, but from my experience that doesn't always work. Emory Cloth always does. Also, replacing those spring clips on each end of the caliper is essential for good working brakes. I mean come on, if you're gonna tear apart the brakes, you might as well go full-monty and replace each bit with new. Also, when compressing the caliper piston, it's a good idea to pre-treat the rubber seal around the piston with silicon lube to help ensure long life of the rubber. Thanks for the video. Very informative.
Great video. Also a good idea to replace the rubber bushings on the upper guide pins. They swell over time essentially freezing the upper guide pins in place. NAPA sells the bushings, slides and boots for $10 per axle.
Most of the time the swelling is from incorrect lubrication being applied to them (I only use silicone on slide pins). Thanks for the comment and the input!
No, thank you for yours. You sent me yours and I had only JUST subbed to you. I don't have any of my own, but I figured those would suffice. Great channel....keep up the great content.
Before seeing this video I bought 3M Copper Anti Seize Brake Lube for the contact points and 3M Silicone Paste for the bolts that go into the rubber boots. Will the Copper Anti Seize work as well as the Permatex ceramic extreme you're using here? I'm guessing it's the same type of medium.
It's good to do things your self. Shops definitely won't take the time and effort to make sure everything is properly greased. Heck I'm not surprised if some even don't use the grease at all
sir,thank you very much for your time uploading this. my car civic 2004 EX.do xou reckon same procedure will apply same as yours.I don't have service repair manual that's why ian asking.thanks
My 2004 Honda front brake shoes have a wire clip that goes across the brake shoes. I didn't see one in your video. Is this because it was manufactured by a different company or because you left it out of your video?
Does the wear indicator go on the top or the bottom on a 2012 Honda accord? I'm asking because I was replacing my breaks and the wear indicator was on the bottom and I want to know if they put them on wrong. Also, do you have a video on how to remove stripped rotor screws? I striped all of of the rotor screws on my front rotors. Thank you for everything.
For 2012 Accord FRONT brake pads, wear indicator should be on the inner pad UP. (REAR pads it is inner pad DOWN). Here is a video on Honda rotor screws. ua-cam.com/video/Y4ZM9jkHRQE/v-deo.html
ACT 914A pads for the front correct? on rockauto only seeing "914A" not "ACT 914". thank you in advance! also saw brembo as an option for a few bucks more, is it worth the upgrade to those for pads?
Hey Big Dog, I'm about to do front pads on my 2009 Accord EX-L Sedan. I'm going to measure my rotors to check the wear level. I have a factory service manual. In the manual, it mentions measurements for Nissin and Akebono. How would I know which rotors I have? And also, do you have a tool that you like to use to measure them? Can I just get a manual micrometer from HF or Northern Tool? I don't want to spend too much, because I won't use it very often. As always, thanks for your awesome videos! BTW I just did my starter thanks to your video!
Nissin is pretty good about stamping the caliper with their name. Akebono made the pads for most 08-11 EX models and almost every model on 2012 Accords. Any digital micrometer that opens up wide enough should work just fine. At 10 years old, I would probably just recommend replacing the rotors with the pads at the same time. Thanks for the comment!
Hey Bigdog, just changed my front brake pads and rotors on a 2012 accord and pulsation is Gone but I have a brief creaking sound when depressing the brake pedal from a stop as the pads release pressure from rotor Maybe I used too much lube on caliper slide pins? Or not enough ? Maybe too little lube on back of shims ? I can’t figure it why I have a creaking sound now Creak sounds stronger/louder on driver side but maybe that’s just driver side bias I have only driven 100 miles so far since changing pads and rotors. Creaking lessens/ goes away at the end of 10 mile commute
Hi Big Dog, I just did brake flush and bleed as your video. This is my first time to do brake flush and bleed. Thanks! 1. But Still I do not know whether there is air in my brake lines, because the tubing I used is smaller than you and it cannot connect the outlet of the brake lines well, jumped out several times when bleeding. Is there any way to be sure there is no air in brake lines? 2. It is hard for brake fluid to come out. For the four wheels, the total bleed fluid is about just 10 fl oz. I am not sure it is right?
John W I wasn't there so it's impossible for me to know, but as an FYI, the brakes can actually be bled without a hose, as long as the assistant doesn't let off brake pedal while the bleeder valve is open (but this way makes a mess). You can usually tell if air is in system because instead of brake pedal being firm, it feels like you are stepping on a sponge.
Arthur Fricchione I got it from Amazon. I said the make and model number of the pump in my Power Steering Fluid Service video, check that video out if you need that info.
If they are in there tight (which many times they are), you would probably want some kind of impact tool to get the rotor screws out. Here is a video I did on them where I give a few tips: ua-cam.com/video/Y4ZM9jkHRQE/v-deo.html
Great video! I just want to do brake flush and bleed. My car is Accord 12 LX, so I think there are some different things. 1. In my manual, the brake fluid is "Honda Heavy Duty Brake Fluid DOT 3", but I almost cannot find this online. Can I use "DOT 3" instead? 2.The bleed order of my Accord 12 is the same with this car? Left front, right front, right rear, left rear? 3. where do you get 25 foot tubing? 4. press the brake pedal all the way to the floor when bleeding the brakes? Someone told me it is bad. I am not sure.
Thank you. The seventh and eighth generation Accords are very similar, so you can use this video as a guide but make sure you have (and use) a proper repair manual. 1. Go to your local Honda dealer and buy some brake fluid (it's going to be DOT 3). 2. Bleed order should be same. 3. Look for a cheap brake bleed kit from online or Harbor Freight. You don't need to buy 25' of washer fluid tubing, I just had it laying around and I made my own tool. 4. You don't press brake pedal all the way to floor, just have assistant pump brake several times and hold down in the braking position using steady pressure (hold position is going to be where the brake pedal normally stops when brakes are applied), then open bleeder valve. When you crack open the bleeder, make sure the assistant does not press brake any further down, all they need to do is keep holding it in same position until you close the bleeder (then they can let off brake pedal and you repeat process). NOTE: The brake pedal can go all the way to the floor when bleeder valve is open, and what people do sometimes is, instead of holding steady pressure, they press brake pedal all the way down to floor after opening the bleeder and that causes the master cylinder to move to a position it never uses and that can cause a failure. DO NOT LET MASTER CYLINDER RUN DRY OR GO BELOW MIN MARK, KEEP ADDING BRAKE FLUID TO MAX LEVEL AS YOU GO.
Quick question I had these guys do my brakes he said he has 30 + years experience but I never saw him take of the brake fluid cap...which Honda recommends?...he said theres no need to?..when and how long do you keep the cap off??
I take the cap off when I push the caliper back in and when I bleed brakes, personal preference. In most Honda service information, they do not indicate whether the cap should be left off or not during normal brake pad replacement. I would not lose any sleep over it.
@@BigDog50001 it was my understanding that those screws were installed at the factory to hold rotors on until wheels were installed but do not need to go back in once removed by customer, and can be a real bitch to rwmove if rusted in and no tool to use.
Unfortunately I don't remember where I got that one but it is pretty decent quality. I may have gotten it at Home Depot or Lowe's but I'm not sure. I've broken the handles on others and that one is definitely more stout.
I have an older kit from Milwaukee which has a 3/8" (model 2754) and 1/2" (model 2763) Impact Wrenches. I was using the 3/8" in the videos. Here is the older kit I have: amzn.to/2ZMdUZF
It is NOT A PHILLIPS screw, but a Japanese Industrial Standard (or JIS). This is why so many people strip the screw. JIS is a great improvement over Phillips.
When I first saw this I thought why is Big Dog50001 using an impact screwdriver instead of the JIS screwdriver and why is he using an air die grinder? Then I realized the video was a couple years old. Good work though.
Be sure to subscribe for more tool and car repair videos! ua-cam.com/users/BigDog50001 twitter.com/BigDog50001 instagram.com/bigdog50001/ Disclosure: This channel earns a small commission using some of these links - at no additional cost to you. The Big Dog 50001 Automotive Channel Store can be found here: www.amazon.com/shop/bigdog50001automotive
Centric 12540036 and centric 12540055 I found those on rockauto. Those are the part number's. They supposed to be the step up to what u used. They are the carbon coated version of the ones that u used
Tip. The caliper pistons position on the front can be marked with a magic marker so after screwing them in you get them in the proper orientation. Don’t screw the pistons in past even with the base avoiding backing them out. I didn’t have the kit so I used a small metal framing square by hand (someone recommended using needle nose pliers spread open, good idea) screwing them in clockwise. This is a well done and very through video. Great job sir. Here’s a good video on bleeding by yourself. Tip/ once you crack open the bleeder valve with tubing in place apply a small amount of axle grease around the threads to keep air from sucking into the system when you let off the brake pedal. Remove grease before replacing the fitting’s dust cover. ua-cam.com/video/ag-Q_lP0dOk/v-deo.html
Great video but I have a question. My accord front passenger brake caliper piston got stuck and it wouldn't retract. I kept smelling burn metal however, I replaced it the caliper and the mechanic bled the line. The brakes worked wonderfully but the ABS came light came on a few hours later. It lasted like 2 days and then it turn off however the brakes seem to be working awkward. For some reason the brakes slide and feel like there is no gripping. I can be driving 15 MPH and slightly brake and it doesn't grip and or slides and i feel a vibration on the pedal. Would you happen to know what that can be?
I would scan the ABS code(s) to see what, if anything, is in the history. I would also double check all work done to the brakes and would re-bleed the brake system (might be air caught in brake lines or ABS modulator or the ABS modulator is bad). Also just for info, a slight brief noise/vibration when the vehicle hits around 7-10 MPH after it has been sitting is normal ABS operation, the system is doing a self-check.
"According to Honda the brake pad warning indicator should be at the bottom.." Negative, that is incorrect information for this vehicle. Wear indicators for the front pads go on the top and to the inside, Page 19-13 of the Honda service manual for this vehicle. Rear pads are the opposite. Wear indicators for the rear pads go on the bottom and to the inside, page 19-22 of the Honda service manual.
22lrTacticoolGuy Either your dealership told you wrong or there’s miscommunication. The ‘squealers’ go on the inboard side front and rear. PS. I have a Ruger 10/22 Heavy Barrel with a Nikon Scope ;-)
Baahubali Alak at bar I did show the part numbers, tools on the other hand I did not name. I will try and get a list of the tools posted after I get part 2 up.
Maybe what you need is to turn the rotors and save some money and materials. Turning is like 20 bucks per rotor as opposed to buying new at 100+ bucks a pop.
Turning them typically requires removing quite a bit of material and the pulsation can return pretty quickly. New rotors used in this video are currently $42 each, not quite $100 as you suggest. Doing it twice to correct the same issue is what costs more money.
@@BigDog50001 Maybe you got a place that takes too much off. If indeed it is brake material it means the rotors are not worn at all and need very little taken off as far as the steel is concerned. 42 bucks per rotor is indeed cheap. In that case I would consider new.
*Tools and Parts*
This channel earns a small commission using some of these links - at no additional cost to you
Pump for Brake Fluid: amzn.to/2LnCGdb
Akebono Front Brake Pads: amzn.to/2ZIYwgl
Centric Front Rotors: amzn.to/2zSSCyF
OTC Hub Resurface Kit: amzn.to/2MPHeeh
Milwaukee 3/8" Impact Wrench: amzn.to/2NPKwPC
3M Silicone Paste: amzn.to/2HIWBT7
Permatex Brake Lube: amzn.to/2LhbVse
Fluid Film: amzn.to/2MRLzin
Brake Cleaner: amzn.to/2LkofI9
Lisle Brake Pad Spreader: amzn.to/2LgOWNW
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Impact Driver for JIS Rotor Screws: amzn.to/2ZNnVWm
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Like many have said...what a phenomenal job of explaining a brake job. I have been watching other videos of mechanics doing brakes because iI'm going to do mine myself for the first time. It never fails, if you watch more than one video you will always pick up additional information that someone didn't include. I can honestly say this video is leaps and bounds more thorough than anything I have seen to date and I have watched several. I'm confident I now know how to do this correctly. Thank you. I just subbed and I'm hoping you have other Honda Accord related information. Mine is a 2003 with 355 thousand on it. I work for Honda and drive 80 miles a day there and back.
You will find most of my content is Honda related, thanks for the comment!
This guy is the best. I’m about to do my brakes too and immediately said let me see what big dogs got to say about it. Changed my starter motor in august using his tutorial and guidance and it was easy and the car is doing great
So, I just changed all my calipers, rotors and pads and bled my fluid on my 09 Accord and all Ive ever done is change my own oil. Ive never even seen someone do brakes before besides on UA-cam. It went great and your video was extremely helpful to the whole process. Thank you so much!
👍
Excellent video. Clear and precise one of the best Honda brake videos I have watched. Really good thanks
Arthur Fricchione Thank you!
Had issues with OEM pads on my 2009 Accord. Issues with OEM pads and rotors on 2013 Accord. You are always very thorough.
I now have a 2020 (10th gen) Honda Accord EX-L (2.0T). They hid the front and rear jacking points. The brakes are different too. Would be nice to see a video on 10th gen.
Keep on keepin on.👍
Thanks for the comment!
I have a 2012 honda odessey and my friend who is a honda mechanic said that the original rortors were defective and and the new ones you buy at honda are the upgraded version.
Very impressive video! Your a good example of how the job should be done and not rushing through it.
I believe they updated the rear rotors on those, thanks for the comment!
Your work is outstanding I follow your way of doing things to the letter and have never gone wrong with the various jobs I’ve done. Thanks big dog
I appreciate the comment, thank you!
Always a big fan of your videos. I have the same car and watching these videos makes me want to work on my car. Your videos are informative and show "how to" do things correctly, especially since you offer advise and teach a few things as well like why that brush is twisted; to get the rest at the bottom of the bottle. Awesome. Great videos
Thank you, I appreciate the comment!
I've watched so many of your videos and you have taught me how to fix so many things on my Honda's, I just want to thank you for all of your content. This brake job video is no exception, great instructions. One question I had was...is it necessary to put back those two little screws on the rotor? I've heard they put those on at the factory just to keep the rotors on during the assembly process. Would it cause any issue to just leave them off? Again, thanks for taking your time to make all of this great content!!
Excellent and excellent job.
Nobody does it a better job than you!!!!!!!!!
Very through videos!!!
Thank you so much, Barry
I appreciate the comment, thanks!
What an amazing automotive repair channel! The best instruction I've seen.
adam edwards Thank you!
Thank you so much for clearing up the Honda brake vibration, I was driving myself crazy. I really thought I really did something wrong. I cleaned and wirebrushed the hub to death, anti-seized the rotor where the rim meets the rotor....Now i know it's an inherent problem. Thank you sir. BTW, the torque specs are 80 pound/feet for the lugs.
👍
good video. As an extra prep step, I always take Emory Cloth (yes that sandpaper material used in plumbing), and rough up the disc surface using water & small circular motions with the cloth. It helps in breaking-in the brakes faster. Yes the disc makers sell rotors with that cross-hatch pattern that's supposed to speed-up the break-in time, but from my experience that doesn't always work. Emory Cloth always does. Also, replacing those spring clips on each end of the caliper is essential for good working brakes. I mean come on, if you're gonna tear apart the brakes, you might as well go full-monty and replace each bit with new. Also, when compressing the caliper piston, it's a good idea to pre-treat the rubber seal around the piston with silicon lube to help ensure long life of the rubber. Thanks for the video. Very informative.
Thanks for the input!
Very informative video in deep & CLEAR explanation, Thank you for posting
The best details I ever seen. 10 out of 10.
Thanks!
Thank you for investing time to show this work,
Awesome instructional video. If replacing with OEM honda brake pads what is the burn in procedure for Honda brake pads?
I do the same mating procedure.
Great video. Also a good idea to replace the rubber bushings on the upper guide pins. They swell over time essentially freezing the upper guide pins in place. NAPA sells the bushings, slides and boots for $10 per axle.
Most of the time the swelling is from incorrect lubrication being applied to them (I only use silicone on slide pins). Thanks for the comment and the input!
Thanks, now I better understand why Honda has the emphasis on the use of silicone. Makes perfect sense now. Appreciate the clarification.
Wow! Great and meticulous info. Thank you very much! Eli Bittencourt
Thank you, I appreciate the comment!
Great tip on using the little pumps at the reservoir, i keep and use the pumps from hand soap containers
👍
Wow,what a good detailed video. Thank you for such detailed explanations on how to do brake job.
Nazarettos Thank you for the comment!
Perfect and beautifully done . I wish mechanics learn from u
Thanks 👍!
Great video, learned a lot, just wondering what you call the attachment that go over stud to clean rust off surface and where could I get it?
Here you go, thanks for the comment!
amzn.to/2Whe5vD
Well done video BigDog, very detailed instructions indeed.
Rob's Wrenches Thanks Rob! I got the package you sent, thanks for the stickers!
No, thank you for yours. You sent me yours and I had only JUST subbed to you. I don't have any of my own, but I figured those would suffice.
Great channel....keep up the great content.
Thank you so much for a great repair video ! Is the sequence of bleeding break fliud same as for honda civic 2009 ex ?
Thanks for the comment! 2009 Civic brake bleed sequence is the same:
1. Front Left
2. Front Right
3. Right Rear
4. Left Rear
@@BigDog50001 thanks for the reply !
Excellent video. Well done!
Thank you!
Before seeing this video I bought 3M Copper Anti Seize Brake Lube for the contact points and 3M Silicone Paste for the bolts that go into the rubber boots. Will the Copper Anti Seize work as well as the Permatex ceramic extreme you're using here? I'm guessing it's the same type of medium.
It should work just fine.
It's good to do things your self. Shops definitely won't take the time and effort to make sure everything is properly greased. Heck I'm not surprised if some even don't use the grease at all
Thank you for the comment.
sir,thank you very much for your time uploading this.
my car civic 2004 EX.do xou reckon same procedure will apply same as yours.I don't have service repair manual that's why ian asking.thanks
The front brakes will be similar. The rear brakes on a 2004 Civic should be drum brakes, those will be completely different.
My 2004 Honda front brake shoes have a wire clip that goes across the brake shoes. I didn't see one in your video. Is this because it was manufactured by a different company or because you left it out of your video?
Does the wear indicator go on the top or the bottom on a 2012 Honda accord? I'm asking because I was replacing my breaks and the wear indicator was on the bottom and I want to know if they put them on wrong. Also, do you have a video on how to remove stripped rotor screws? I striped all of of the rotor screws on my front rotors. Thank you for everything.
For 2012 Accord FRONT brake pads, wear indicator should be on the inner pad UP. (REAR pads it is inner pad DOWN). Here is a video on Honda rotor screws. ua-cam.com/video/Y4ZM9jkHRQE/v-deo.html
first time ever changing brakes.
15:10 into video, what stops the piston from popping back out?
ACT 914A pads for the front correct? on rockauto only seeing "914A" not "ACT 914". thank you in advance!
also saw brembo as an option for a few bucks more, is it worth the upgrade to those for pads?
best brake job ever
Thanks!
Terrific explanation
Is there any way to clean the resin off the rotor to get smoother breaking, or do you just have to replace rotors at that point?
Great video man but if that's a pittsburgh harbor freight jack stand they were recalled so be aware
ua-cam.com/video/CYBVeEu1dYk/v-deo.html
I'm not sure my car been Service brake I don't think they do just like you do may be take too much time Thank you very good job .
Thank you for the comment.
Hey Big Dog, I'm about to do front pads on my 2009 Accord EX-L Sedan. I'm going to measure my rotors to check the wear level. I have a factory service manual. In the manual, it mentions measurements for Nissin and Akebono. How would I know which rotors I have? And also, do you have a tool that you like to use to measure them? Can I just get a manual micrometer from HF or Northern Tool? I don't want to spend too much, because I won't use it very often. As always, thanks for your awesome videos! BTW I just did my starter thanks to your video!
Nissin is pretty good about stamping the caliper with their name. Akebono made the pads for most 08-11 EX models and almost every model on 2012 Accords. Any digital micrometer that opens up wide enough should work just fine. At 10 years old, I would probably just recommend replacing the rotors with the pads at the same time. Thanks for the comment!
Where can I find the brake fluid tubing I’ve looked but I couldn’t find it do you have a link ??
Hey Bigdog, just changed my front brake pads and rotors on a 2012 accord and pulsation is Gone but I have a brief creaking sound when depressing the brake pedal from a stop as the pads release pressure from rotor
Maybe I used too much lube on caliper slide pins? Or not enough ? Maybe too little lube on back of shims ? I can’t figure it why I have a creaking sound now
Creak sounds stronger/louder on driver side but maybe that’s just driver side bias
I have only driven 100 miles so far since changing pads and rotors. Creaking lessens/ goes away at the end of 10 mile commute
Such a good video.
Hi Big Dog, I just did brake flush and bleed as your video. This is my first time to do brake flush and bleed. Thanks!
1. But Still I do not know whether there is air in my brake lines, because the tubing I used is smaller than you and it cannot connect the outlet of the brake lines well, jumped out several times when bleeding. Is there any way to be sure there is no air in brake lines?
2. It is hard for brake fluid to come out. For the four wheels, the total bleed fluid is about just 10 fl oz. I am not sure it is right?
John W I wasn't there so it's impossible for me to know, but as an FYI, the brakes can actually be bled without a hose, as long as the assistant doesn't let off brake pedal while the bleeder valve is open (but this way makes a mess). You can usually tell if air is in system because instead of brake pedal being firm, it feels like you are stepping on a sponge.
Thanks a lot! I think my car is okay, the brake pedal feels as usual.
John W 👍
thanks for making the video. i wouldn't use so much lubricant though. seems to be a little much
Brake jobs are subjective, many techs do things differently than others.
Can you say where you purchased the suction device thank you
Arthur Fricchione I got it from Amazon. I said the make and model number of the pump in my Power Steering Fluid Service video, check that video out if you need that info.
29:35 Proper location of the wear indicator.
Very important.
👍
Big dog do I have to buy that tool to take the screws out of the rotor or would it be ok 2 use a Makita impact drill?
If they are in there tight (which many times they are), you would probably want some kind of impact tool to get the rotor screws out. Here is a video I did on them where I give a few tips: ua-cam.com/video/Y4ZM9jkHRQE/v-deo.html
So if u were changing the calipers then the bleeding part you're doing would be done last
What kind of brush are you using to apply the fluid film to the brake hub?
I think I used an acid brush in this video.
Great video! I just want to do brake flush and bleed. My car is Accord 12 LX, so I think there are some different things.
1. In my manual, the brake fluid is "Honda Heavy Duty Brake Fluid DOT 3", but I almost cannot find this online. Can I use "DOT 3" instead?
2.The bleed order of my Accord 12 is the same with this car? Left front, right front, right rear, left rear?
3. where do you get 25 foot tubing?
4. press the brake pedal all the way to the floor when bleeding the brakes? Someone told me it is bad. I am not sure.
Thank you. The seventh and eighth generation Accords are very similar, so you can use this video as a guide but make sure you have (and use) a proper repair manual.
1. Go to your local Honda dealer and buy some brake fluid (it's going to be DOT 3).
2. Bleed order should be same.
3. Look for a cheap brake bleed kit from online or Harbor Freight. You don't need to buy 25' of washer fluid tubing, I just had it laying around and I made my own tool.
4. You don't press brake pedal all the way to floor, just have assistant pump brake several times and hold down in the braking position using steady pressure (hold position is going to be where the brake pedal normally stops when brakes are applied), then open bleeder valve. When you crack open the bleeder, make sure the assistant does not press brake any further down, all they need to do is keep holding it in same position until you close the bleeder (then they can let off brake pedal and you repeat process). NOTE: The brake pedal can go all the way to the floor when bleeder valve is open, and what people do sometimes is, instead of holding steady pressure, they press brake pedal all the way down to floor after opening the bleeder and that causes the master cylinder to move to a position it never uses and that can cause a failure. DO NOT LET MASTER CYLINDER RUN DRY OR GO BELOW MIN MARK, KEEP ADDING BRAKE FLUID TO MAX LEVEL AS YOU GO.
this video was satisfying
Is there a Link for that fluid extraction tool you were using in this video? Thanks!
Pump for Brake Fluid: amzn.to/2LnCGdb
Quick question I had these guys do my brakes he said he has 30 + years experience but I never saw him take of the brake fluid cap...which Honda recommends?...he said theres no need to?..when and how long do you keep the cap off??
I take the cap off when I push the caliper back in and when I bleed brakes, personal preference. In most Honda service information, they do not indicate whether the cap should be left off or not during normal brake pad replacement. I would not lose any sleep over it.
Do you have to use an impact driver to remove those 2 rotor screws?
Most of the time yes, they are usually stuck in there and the impact loosens the bond. This is my favorite impact tool to remove them: amzn.to/2KfWe3I
@@BigDog50001 it was my understanding that those screws were installed at the factory to hold rotors on until wheels were installed but do not need to go back in once removed by customer, and can be a real bitch to rwmove if rusted in and no tool to use.
What's the part# for the yellow wire brush?? Looks like quality
Unfortunately I don't remember where I got that one but it is pretty decent quality. I may have gotten it at Home Depot or Lowe's but I'm not sure. I've broken the handles on others and that one is definitely more stout.
@@BigDog50001 ok I'll definitely try those two stores... Thank you again sir!
Wow, I wish this guy did my brakes! Doubt anyone gets this service in garages
I appreciate the input, thanks!
What electric impact gun is that big dog I'm going to buy one soon.
I have an older kit from Milwaukee which has a 3/8" (model 2754) and 1/2" (model 2763) Impact Wrenches. I was using the 3/8" in the videos. Here is the older kit I have: amzn.to/2ZMdUZF
Big Dog50001 Automotive still going strong nice
Can I have the link for the tool used to push the caliper piston in?
Here you go, it is a Lisle 24300 Speedy Brake Pad Spreader: amzn.to/2tyoZzl
These rotors are the same parts for 2006 Accord sedan EX?.Thx.
Baahubali Alak at bar Should be, but I would double check to make sure.
It is NOT A PHILLIPS screw, but a Japanese Industrial Standard (or JIS). This is why so many people strip the screw. JIS is a great improvement over Phillips.
Yep, they usually are JIS unless they were replaced with something else. I have several videos noting this. Thanks for the input.
Beautiful
When I first saw this I thought why is Big Dog50001 using an impact screwdriver instead of the JIS screwdriver and why is he using an air die grinder? Then I realized the video was a couple years old. Good work though.
I did not have JIS impact drivers at the time I filmed this, I still use my air die grinders on brake jobs though. Thanks for the comment!
Why do you drain the brake fluid?
It was time for it to be replaced.
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Centric 12540036 and centric 12540055 I found those on rockauto. Those are the part number's. They supposed to be the step up to what u used. They are the carbon coated version of the ones that u used
Nice job
Endelt1 Thank you.
Tip. The caliper pistons position on the front can be marked with a magic marker so after screwing them in you get them in the proper orientation. Don’t screw the pistons in past even with the base avoiding backing them out. I didn’t have the kit so I used a small metal framing square by hand (someone recommended using needle nose pliers spread open, good idea) screwing them in clockwise. This is a well done and very through video. Great job sir. Here’s a good video on bleeding by yourself. Tip/ once you crack open the bleeder valve with tubing in place apply a small amount of axle grease around the threads to keep air from sucking into the system when you let off the brake pedal. Remove grease before replacing the fitting’s dust cover.
ua-cam.com/video/ag-Q_lP0dOk/v-deo.html
Great video but I have a question. My accord front passenger brake caliper piston got stuck and it wouldn't retract. I kept smelling burn metal however, I replaced it the caliper and the mechanic bled the line. The brakes worked wonderfully but the ABS came light came on a few hours later. It lasted like 2 days and then it turn off however the brakes seem to be working awkward. For some reason the brakes slide and feel like there is no gripping. I can be driving 15 MPH and slightly brake and it doesn't grip and or slides and i feel a vibration on the pedal. Would you happen to know what that can be?
I would scan the ABS code(s) to see what, if anything, is in the history. I would also double check all work done to the brakes and would re-bleed the brake system (might be air caught in brake lines or ABS modulator or the ABS modulator is bad). Also just for info, a slight brief noise/vibration when the vehicle hits around 7-10 MPH after it has been sitting is normal ABS operation, the system is doing a self-check.
you missed a point, if the caliper piston is seized it would happen as well. this happens as number one reason for cold state like ILLINOIS.
I found another reason. Dry guide pins will also cause them to wear different and fail. My experience.
Those pins need to be lubricated for sure, thanks for the input.
How about the back brakes
Link is right in the description of the video. ua-cam.com/video/pTev_Lrm7ss/v-deo.html
@@BigDog50001 yeah but when you do the other sides do you add brake fluid every time you do each side
19:13 Holy Crap
According to Honda the brake pad warning indicator should be at the bottom..
"According to Honda the brake pad warning indicator should be at the bottom.."
Negative, that is incorrect information for this vehicle. Wear indicators for the front pads go on the top and to the inside, Page 19-13 of the Honda service manual for this vehicle.
Rear pads are the opposite. Wear indicators for the rear pads go on the bottom and to the inside, page 19-22 of the Honda service manual.
Big Dog50001 well thats the honda dealer told me,anyways I have 07 accord ex sedan.:)
22lrTacticoolGuy Either your dealership told you wrong or there’s miscommunication. The ‘squealers’ go on the inboard side front and rear. PS. I have a Ruger 10/22 Heavy Barrel with a Nikon Scope ;-)
Why not listing all your parts so easy for us to get it..
Baahubali Alak at bar I did show the part numbers, tools on the other hand I did not name. I will try and get a list of the tools posted after I get part 2 up.
Big Dog50001 excellent vid Thank you!
Did you have the same problems with these rotors after a period of time? let us Know...
No but a lot of it depends on driving habits.
Maybe what you need is to turn the rotors and save some money and materials. Turning is like 20 bucks per rotor as opposed to buying new at 100+ bucks a pop.
Turning them typically requires removing quite a bit of material and the pulsation can return pretty quickly. New rotors used in this video are currently $42 each, not quite $100 as you suggest. Doing it twice to correct the same issue is what costs more money.
@@BigDog50001 Maybe you got a place that takes too much off. If indeed it is brake material it means the rotors are not worn at all and need very little taken off as far as the steel is concerned. 42 bucks per rotor is indeed cheap. In that case I would consider new.
How to turn a 10 minute brake job into 35 minutes.