I'm very sure that a lot people would like to have a detailed drawing and parts list for that rotor, I know I sure would. Thanks for all the great videos!
Lid.... I think your little experiments are so fascinating and your explanations are so informative. I have sais this before but I love the aw you turn household objects into such great experiments. Thanks for sharing... Scottie
I really like the reed switch on the low power things. There is a beauty in the pure simplicity of how it gets the job done. You just can't drive much amperage through the little ones and expect them to live long.
The Compression cells hold a secret that I'm sure John has found out. 1.2 to 1.3 volts? That's interesting. Only a certain formula of crystal would give that potential. I'm sure you can't speak about whats in the cells but I think I may have a good idea of what the main crystal is. But 2mA dry is very impressive! If you're tying to make his cells allow them to sit for a few days, even though they look like they're dying the will sometimes surprise you. Thank You Lidmotor for all that you do!
Thanks. The LED drops off in brightness as the voltage in the cap goes down. It is like running a Joule Thief on a supercap. Same thing. Flyback driven LED.
Well a second pickup coil will charge a second cap but It is going to cause a drag (Lenz Law) on the wheel. Looping the energy back to the front can be done with a separate pulse circuit. This has been tried many times before. I have never had much luck with the method. The energy leaks out here and there and not enough gets back to the main source.
Hey Lidmotor, have you tried putting the stove top cell in a glass of vegetable oil? Oil and water don't mix so if there is water powering the cell the oil will remove it and take its place. I have some of my crystal glue cells and pressure cells in oil and they still work.
Hi, A couple of questions. What type of bearing did you use? Also, you mentioned that you needed a good reed switch. Have you ever made one of these using a Hall Effect sensor? I have several and was thinking of trying one in a similar application. Jim
As usual, a very nice project. Would it be possible to get the construction details of the motor? I am sure that it seems obvious to you, but I think that many people would want to make their own. Perhaps even a construction video? Any details would certainly help. Thanks.
I highly doubt that 24 Volts will hurt you since your internal resistance is high. Unless you actually shorted it with a wire then it could make a nice flash. You will start to feel the current flowing true you roughly around 50 volts if you have high amount of water or your hand are sweaty but no harm will be done.
Avidrcdotcom has these small bearings. The $5 --1/8" id ceramic ball bearing works good for a tiny motor like this. I'm using a cheap $1 steel one here but I had to rinse it out with acetone and use very light oil to get rid of most of the friction.
That's good to hear! The same can be said with many other of my other cells, the're alive and still going without ever needing water. The 5 foot tall crystal cell i made still runs a LCD clock but every few days the cell dies and by the next day the cell is alive and the LCD clock is at full brightness, the cell has a cycle were it will die and come back and it does this non-stop. What happen to the cell that John shipped you?
Ah very nice, reminds me of the one that Mart did recently. Elegant solutions for reliable running on small voltage setups. Oh hey, re the conv with IB above about the stovetop cell still going after nearly a year - Well hey, if you run your vaccuum cleaner around the room every now and again then...it's energy from the vacuum !
Thanks for all the great videos ...i am building right along with you came across the same setup you have here but instead of sending the back emf back to the main batt...i put a battery between the negative leg of the diode and the reed...positive of the charge bat towards the negative of the diode...only simple test so far but with one aaa at 1.464 volts i charges another aaa nicad from .6 volts up to 1.288..and the run battery was still at 1.464 when it got done...something to try.
Bradley Malone Great! Just be careful with your conclusions about this. These batteries are made to maintain a voltage as long as they can so they can run things that require that. I got fooled by just looking at battery voltages many times. Check out the discharge curves on batteries using a Google search. When ever I can I use a 5F or 10F super capacitor to take a quick look at energy consumption. You are not going to get more energy out of these type devices than you put in. In fact----they are not even very efficient. Just great fun to build and play with.
***** I understand all that...mostly I am expirimenting with charging "non-rechargable" batteries ....and as you stated...I'm not fooled by rising voltage anymore :) fun stuff though...I use a cap bank of 20 farads up to 2.7v (only charge it with one AA) and it runs for about 2 hours....enough to make me smile!
Yes. I have worked with multple winding coils. Your idea does work but there is no gain in energy. The device will not recharge itself. The energy has to come from another source. With "X" amount of energy you can do with it whatever you want but it doesn't become a larger amount by just clever manipluation. Energy is all around us and IN us but I have yet to see a machine that actually makes it. Conversion of energy is most facinating though and that we can do. I get a big kick doing it.
I have tried it both ways. It helps on some and doesn't help on others. By the way your "stove top" cell will still run Penny. I just tried it. On July 24th that cell will be one year old. NO water--- ever!!! Still sealed up in that cardboard sleeve. Probably air humidity kept it going ---or........??????
The cells that John Bedini sent me are both alive and well. They look like those "compression" cells that he made based on your idea but I don't think that they are. I tried to replicate the cells that he sent me but I am missing something. The one that I made just goes dead unless I water it. His are like your "stove top" and will continue to produce power just leaving them alone with no water added. Adding water will jolt em back up to 1.3v @ 30mA for a day or so. Dry they sit a 1.2v / 2mA
That must be it !! Energy from the vacuum -cleaner! I guess it is not "free energy" though because I have to guided mine around the room. Actually I really don't know why that "stove top" cell is still alive. That small strip of Mg ribbon should be long gone by now.
Actually you are wrong. I have a John Bedini built cell (that he sent to me for testing) that runs a nice LED light. The cell doesn't put out much power but all you do is add water to make it work. Even dry it retains a small charge. He has figured out the electrolyte chemicals and the anode/cathode arrangement so that the cell doesn't just go to equilibrium and stop. Call it what you want ---what I have in front of me really does work.
what happend if you use a paralell pulse motor that charge supercapacitors instead lit a led¨? pulse motor 1 charge the supercap 2 and pulse motor 2 charge the supercap 1
Hi, Lidmotor, nice work, tnks for sharing! The gain of more energy can be achieved from multiple resonance and more voltage amplification. If you wish a device that really works OU, why dont you try JAMM motor, inside my movie Overunity Charger, to have a Searl Style FE generator. All the best!
Hola amigo lamento ser yo quien te diga esto soy un seguidor de tus motores encerio me gusta tu trabajo pero este no es un dispositivo de energia libre es buena la idea y lo que tu piensas que es autoinduccion no lo es es simplemente el tiempo de descarga de tu condensador ya ise los calculos y deve de durar 40 segundos encendido pero como solo se activa por unos milisegundos para dar las repulsiones no se gasta los 40segundos como si lo fueran si no que los distribulle deacuerdo a los imanes intenta poner mas imanes y ya veras que se detendra mas rapido esto se deve a tu supercapacitor ya que tiene muchos faradios y guarda mucha energia funciona como una pila de alta potencia pero vas bien me has dado muchas buenas ideas y te agradesco por compartir esto con nosotros te admiro sigue asi
It is just a plain steel ball bearing that I rinsed out with acetone and put very light weight oil on. A better choice would be a ceramic bearing. I have used Hall Effect sensors before but not on these super low power motors.
Hi! How many windings of magnet wire did you used of what awg and what concerns me because I'm a begginer does winding has to be very even if you use a very fine wire? Thank you!
Very nice Lid. Here something everyone can built and understand easily. Thanks to work like this, people can visualise how much charge a super-cap can hold. Or see it another way. How little energy, these pulse motor take! lol
I could last longer if you use a signal diode instead of a LED. A signal diode has a voltage drop of 0.6 volt where a LED drops 1.7 to 2.4 volts. LED uses more power. Also a signal diode will allow more power from the magnet passing the coil to charge the supercap slightly. (reed switch must turn on when magnet is top dead center of coil allowing magnet to send a pulse to cap before being pushed away.)
I have crystal batteries that never discharge, somehow similar with what ibpointless2 and plengo has (my studies from 2009-2012), so those batteries works really forever.
There is an alternative design which uses a COIL to sense the magnet, wound around the coil which kicks it back. and you need a transistor to switch it. No matter if it is a PNP or an NPN, just take in account the polarity. That's all - WITHOUT ANY REED SWITCH. The only withdraw is that the coil must be double (possibly, self built or you can try to wind the pickup coil over a relay one). The coils are connected in series and the common terminal is used as well. Anyway, you can find your reed switches on eBay. And this ultimately solves your issue, I guess. Not even to mention that reed switches can be found in other devices, such as bicycle computers.
2.3V and 10F is 23 coulomb, Q = VC you can see LED light clearly for 0.2 mA current 23 coulomb => 23000 mA sec. = 23000 / 3600 => 6.39 mAH 6.39 mAH / 0.2 mA = 32 hours if the capasitor in full charge it will run for 32 hours
Nope. Something is very wrong with your math. This runs for just minutes not hours on that 10F supercap. The MOTOR draws way more than .02mA ---nevermind the amp draw for the led because it is using the backspike from the coil firing.
My calculation is base on the capasitor Fully charge and 0.2mA current, but It could be 1 mA or 3mA and not fully charge too, In that case the time will be reduce. My point is the motor run for many munite is not cause by recharging capasitor from the coil. beside that the current will not be constant due to the voltage in the capasitor is going down
since your Capasitor is 2.3 V and the LED 1.85V mean maximum you can only use your capasitor until it voltage drop to 1.85 V. If you do not use the LED for sure the motor will spin longer
I'm very sure that a lot people would like to have a detailed drawing and parts list for that rotor, I know I sure would. Thanks for all the great videos!
Lid.... I think your little experiments are so fascinating and your explanations are so informative. I have sais this before but I love the aw you turn household objects into such great experiments. Thanks for sharing... Scottie
I really like the reed switch on the low power things. There is a beauty in the pure simplicity of how it gets the job done. You just can't drive much amperage through the little ones and expect them to live long.
The Compression cells hold a secret that I'm sure John has found out.
1.2 to 1.3 volts? That's interesting. Only a certain formula of crystal would give that potential. I'm sure you can't speak about whats in the cells but I think I may have a good idea of what the main crystal is. But 2mA dry is very impressive!
If you're tying to make his cells allow them to sit for a few days, even though they look like they're dying the will sometimes surprise you. Thank You Lidmotor for all that you do!
Oh man.. I got a chuckle. I had no idea what "Lidmotor" meant, until now, that's really comical Rusty, I love it. LOL
Thanks. The LED drops off in brightness as the voltage in the cap goes down. It is like running a Joule Thief on a supercap. Same thing. Flyback driven LED.
Well a second pickup coil will charge a second cap but It is going to cause a drag (Lenz Law) on the wheel. Looping the energy back to the front can be done with a separate pulse circuit. This has been tried many times before. I have never had much luck with the method. The energy leaks out here and there and not enough gets back to the main source.
This would make a nice Science Fair Project.
Nice I love those super capacitor! I should order some for testing. Nice little motor!
Hey Lidmotor, have you tried putting the stove top cell in a glass of vegetable oil? Oil and water don't mix so if there is water powering the cell the oil will remove it and take its place. I have some of my crystal glue cells and pressure cells in oil and they still work.
Hi,
A couple of questions. What type of bearing did you use? Also, you mentioned that you needed a good reed switch. Have you ever made one of these using a Hall Effect sensor? I have several and was thinking of trying one in a similar application.
Jim
nice, would a coil at the opposite side charge the cap?....
Thanks. Pulse motors are fun to build.
As usual, a very nice project. Would it be possible to get the construction details of the motor? I am sure that it seems obvious to you, but I think that many people would want to make their own. Perhaps even a construction video?
Any details would certainly help.
Thanks.
Well done Lid ! Does the LED stay on so bright until the motor stops ? Or will it get weaker also ?
Many thanks.
Regards.,Stefan.
Hey bud im just wondering if you have ever tryed a bifiler coil and used the second wire to do the recharging?
I highly doubt that 24 Volts will hurt you since your internal resistance is high. Unless you actually shorted it with a wire then it could make a nice flash. You will start to feel the current flowing true you roughly around 50 volts if you have high amount of water or your hand are sweaty but no harm will be done.
Avidrcdotcom has these small bearings. The $5 --1/8" id ceramic ball bearing works good for a tiny motor like this. I'm using a cheap $1 steel one here but I had to rinse it out with acetone and use very light oil to get rid of most of the friction.
Nice motor. Where did you get the bearing you are using?
That's good to hear! The same can be said with many other of my other cells, the're alive and still going without ever needing water. The 5 foot tall crystal cell i made still runs a LCD clock but every few days the cell dies and by the next day the cell is alive and the LCD clock is at full brightness, the cell has a cycle were it will die and come back and it does this non-stop.
What happen to the cell that John shipped you?
Ah very nice, reminds me of the one that Mart did recently. Elegant solutions for reliable running on small voltage setups.
Oh hey, re the conv with IB above about the stovetop cell still going after nearly a year - Well hey, if you run your vaccuum cleaner around the room every now and again then...it's energy from the vacuum !
Thanks for all the great videos ...i am building right along with you came across the same setup you have here but instead of sending the back emf back to the main batt...i put a battery between the negative leg of the diode and the reed...positive of the charge bat towards the negative of the diode...only simple test so far but with one aaa at 1.464 volts i charges another aaa nicad from .6 volts up to 1.288..and the run battery was still at 1.464 when it got done...something to try.
Bradley Malone Great! Just be careful with your conclusions about this. These batteries are made to maintain a voltage as long as they can so they can run things that require that. I got fooled by just looking at battery voltages many times. Check out the discharge curves on batteries using a Google search. When ever I can I use a 5F or 10F super capacitor to take a quick look at energy consumption. You are not going to get more energy out of these type devices than you put in. In fact----they are not even very efficient. Just great fun to build and play with.
***** I understand all that...mostly I am expirimenting with charging "non-rechargable" batteries ....and as you stated...I'm not fooled by rising voltage anymore :) fun stuff though...I use a cap bank of 20 farads up to 2.7v (only charge it with one AA) and it runs for about 2 hours....enough to make me smile!
Yes. I have worked with multple winding coils. Your idea does work but there is no gain in energy. The device will not recharge itself. The energy has to come from another source. With "X" amount of energy you can do with it whatever you want but it doesn't become a larger amount by just clever manipluation. Energy is all around us and IN us but I have yet to see a machine that actually makes it. Conversion of energy is most facinating though and that we can do. I get a big kick doing it.
I have tried it both ways. It helps on some and doesn't help on others. By the way your "stove top" cell will still run Penny. I just tried it. On July 24th that cell will be one year old. NO water--- ever!!! Still sealed up in that cardboard sleeve. Probably air humidity kept it going ---or........??????
Do you have the homemade batteries charge the capacitor?
Nice - clean quiet design!
Will it charge a 12 Volt Battery?
Nice vid Lidmotor, but where did you get that reed switch from? Did you order it online?
very cool little machine, love it! thanx.
This is normal pulsing, Have you tried sonic pulsing?
The cells that John Bedini sent me are both alive and well. They look like those "compression" cells that he made based on your idea but I don't think that they are. I tried to replicate the cells that he sent me but I am missing something. The one that I made just goes dead unless I water it. His are like your "stove top" and will continue to produce power just leaving them alone with no water added. Adding water will jolt em back up to 1.3v @ 30mA for a day or so. Dry they sit a 1.2v / 2mA
That must be it !! Energy from the vacuum -cleaner! I guess it is not "free energy" though because I have to guided mine around the room. Actually I really don't know why that "stove top" cell is still alive. That small strip of Mg ribbon should be long gone by now.
Actually you are wrong. I have a John Bedini built cell (that he sent to me for testing) that runs a nice LED light. The cell doesn't put out much power but all you do is add water to make it work. Even dry it retains a small charge. He has figured out the electrolyte chemicals and the anode/cathode arrangement so that the cell doesn't just go to equilibrium and stop. Call it what you want ---what I have in front of me really does work.
Questions:
where is the position of the reed switch ?
why you have a second capacitor ? (value?)
what happend if you use a paralell pulse motor that charge supercapacitors instead lit a led¨?
pulse motor 1 charge the supercap 2 and pulse motor 2 charge the supercap 1
Hi, Lidmotor, nice work, tnks for sharing! The gain of more energy can be achieved from multiple resonance and more voltage amplification. If you wish a device that really works OU, why dont you try JAMM motor, inside my movie Overunity Charger, to have a Searl Style FE generator. All the best!
Hola amigo lamento ser yo quien te diga esto soy un seguidor de tus motores encerio me gusta tu trabajo pero este no es un dispositivo de energia libre es buena la idea y lo que tu piensas que es autoinduccion no lo es es simplemente el tiempo de descarga de tu condensador ya ise los calculos y deve de durar 40 segundos encendido pero como solo se activa por unos milisegundos para dar las repulsiones no se gasta los 40segundos como si lo fueran si no que los distribulle deacuerdo a los imanes intenta poner mas imanes y ya veras que se detendra mas rapido esto se deve a tu supercapacitor ya que tiene muchos faradios y guarda mucha energia funciona como una pila de alta potencia pero vas bien me has dado muchas buenas ideas y te agradesco por compartir esto con nosotros te admiro sigue asi
It is just a plain steel ball bearing that I rinsed out with acetone and put very light weight oil on. A better choice would be a ceramic bearing. I have used Hall Effect sensors before but not on these super low power motors.
You could use a Bedini circuit to reload the capacitator.
Hi! How many windings of magnet wire did you used of what awg and what concerns me because I'm a begginer does winding has to be very even if you use a very fine wire? Thank you!
Viktor Božičević It is a few hundred turns of 30 ga magnet wire.
Thanks. I will have to try that.
Yes. It is basically an Adams motor. The COP on THIS particular little guy is way under 1. Too much friction.
Tell me please is free energy possible?
No free energy.
Very nice Lid. Here something everyone can built and understand easily. Thanks to work like this, people can visualise how much charge a super-cap can hold. Or see it another way. How little energy, these pulse motor take! lol
I could last longer if you use a signal diode instead of a LED. A signal diode has a voltage drop of 0.6 volt where a LED drops 1.7 to 2.4 volts. LED uses more power. Also a signal diode will allow more power from the magnet passing the coil to charge the supercap slightly. (reed switch must turn on when magnet is top dead center of coil allowing magnet to send a pulse to cap before being pushed away.)
I'm using 30 ga magnet wire on the coil.
I like your videos, could you give more details about the coil..
I think build one..
Its really nice
I have crystal batteries that never discharge, somehow similar with what ibpointless2 and plengo has (my studies from 2009-2012), so those batteries works really forever.
it's a free energy perpetual machine?
No.
finally i got mine also working after many tries with ferrite core.
You finally got yours working with ferrite core magnet or the air core? If the answer is air core, why cant a ferrite core be used?
ferrite core works, check on my channel link goo.gl/zceMCk ,buying reed switch gives fast result
You can also use a relay coil. Just to make your life easier.
Thanks !
You can find that reed switch at Electronicgoldminedotcom.
can i just take out the reed switch and place the LED? its really hard to find a reed switch here in our place tnx.
without the reed the motor will not run.
oh ok tnx so the reed switch is like the commutator which goes on and off part
you are right. It keep the rotation in one direction.
There is an alternative design which uses a COIL to sense the magnet, wound around the coil which kicks it back. and you need a transistor to switch it. No matter if it is a PNP or an NPN, just take in account the polarity. That's all - WITHOUT ANY REED SWITCH. The only withdraw is that the coil must be double (possibly, self built or you can try to wind the pickup coil over a relay one). The coils are connected in series and the common terminal is used as well. Anyway, you can find your reed switches on eBay. And this ultimately solves your issue, I guess. Not even to mention that reed switches can be found in other devices, such as bicycle computers.
I was just one of those spur of the moment things when I was setting up the account. Some people think that my first name is "Lid".
How to make it run for months or years
BIG battery with a solar panel.
@@Lidmotor
Solar panel value ?????
Go big. I would use a 10w 5v panel and pair it with 3.7v 18650 Li rechargeables.
Can u pls try on bicycle to rotate wheel
That's cool
Hehe ^^ this is one thing that will happen to anyone who play with electronic :P we all got shock at a certain time in our live some more then other.
2.3V and 10F is 23 coulomb, Q = VC
you can see LED light clearly for 0.2 mA current
23 coulomb => 23000 mA sec. = 23000 / 3600 => 6.39 mAH
6.39 mAH / 0.2 mA = 32 hours
if the capasitor in full charge it will run for 32 hours
Nope. Something is very wrong with your math. This runs for just minutes not hours on that 10F supercap. The MOTOR draws way more than .02mA ---nevermind the amp draw for the led because it is using the backspike from the coil firing.
My calculation is base on the capasitor Fully charge and 0.2mA current, but It could be 1 mA or 3mA and not fully charge too, In that case the time will be reduce.
My point is the motor run for many munite is not cause by recharging capasitor from the coil.
beside that the current will not be constant due to the voltage in the capasitor is going down
since your Capasitor is 2.3 V and the LED 1.85V mean maximum you can only use your capasitor until it voltage drop to 1.85 V. If you do not use the LED for sure the motor will spin longer
Aliman Chua The LED is not lit by the capacitor.
texjarhead Then the LED lit by what?
Intersting but in none of the experimenters or Bedinis we see a battery used for practical use, and the topic just died out with no clear results