Fig Graft Update | RP Damage | Maui Mulberry
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- Опубліковано 31 бер 2024
- I garden in Arizona 9B. Our fig trees are waking up! This is a follow-up to the grafting tutorial I did just under 2 months ago on my in-ground fig tree. • Successfully Create Yo... I share some tips for giving your fig grafts the best chance of taking off. I also share the damage last summer did to my Royal Poinciana and the choice I made. Finally, I give an update on the Maui mulberry and how it took the hail damage we saw in early March.
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Hi Natasha. Thanks for update. You do have a green thumb. My grafts seem to all be taking - thank you. A little slow to leaf out though. I am in North Scottsdale - a bit cooler here. I am so excited about it.
That's great to hear! Hope you have an abundant harvest this year.
Thanks for the update-date… we at OC Chayer of CRFG have the Gr8 Scionwood Exchange in January and grafting class just before…
This is a good reason to join your local garden group… meet like minded people.
April 20 is our annual plant sale… raising money for Ag Student Scholarships and to cover operating costs.
Pity about freak hail storm… hope mangoes survived OK…
Cheers, John
OC Chapter…
You are welcome! The new mango growth got roughed up/stems knicked but should recover well as the weather warms and stays consistent.
Hi Natasha, another great video and thank you so much for showing us how it's done here in the Valley. Could you please recommend early and late ripening varieties? I would love to set up an extended harvest. Thank you!
Ripening times can vary with the weather. In general, my earliest Breba crop figs in May are: LSU Scott’s Black, Pastilliere (Raintree), Nixon Peace, Galicia Negra. My earliest main crop in June are: Red Lebanese Bekaa Valley, Marseille Black VS, Chicago Hardy, Pastilliere (Raintree), and Hâtive d'Argenteuil. Varieties that ripen quality figs late (in November and sometimes December) are: Chicago Hardy Red Lebanese (Bekaa Valley version), Smith, Bass' Favorite, Black Madeira (UCD), Del Sen Jaume Gran, and Martinenca Rimada. Mt Edna’s fruit early and late so definitely grow Chicago Hardy and RLBV if you are not already.
Great video 🌱 😊
Thanks!
Sorry its random to post here, any feedback hugely appreciated. I'm in Mesa, have a young in-ground Black Mission, Tiger Panache, and Peter's Honey. Last year both the Tiger Panache and the Peter's Honey were loaded with fruit that never ripened. They got all plump and green, I picked and tested in November and December, but they never ripened and then tossed their fruit.
The Black Mission was loaded, but didn't ripen till December, and about half the fruit never ripened, ended up throwing it with the leaves in January. I still got a lot of fruit tho. I think it may have been because I foolishly planted a rather large Pakistani Mulberry to the South of the Black Mission, which shaded a lot of its sunlight in November& December.
But limited sunlight is not an issue with teh Tiger and the Peter's Honey, so I'm kinda confused.
I got a bunch of cuttings (Azores Dark, Red Libya etc) from Harvey, I'm rooting them right now. I'm running out of places to put fig trees. I'm thinking about making large self-watering containers (30 gal size, roughly) and trying to grow them in pots. I don't know if this is a mistake, with the heat. Do you think its better to squeeze them into the ground (planted 3 ft apart from other trees) or keep them in pots?
My last question, is I recently bought a Chicago Hardy fig tree. Its barely grown, and the leaves have a mottled green-yellowish green, almost "digital camo" appearance. I fear its the dreaded FMV. Do I just kill the tree, or try to keep it in a pot far away from the other fig trees? Is it worth trying to keep the thing alive, or should I burn the unclean?
Any feedback deeply appreciated. I learn so much from your videos
All 3 of your fig varieties should produce their first main crop in summer. That’s when they have the potential to taste the best (develop good sugars) and produce heavily. Fall is when your fig trees could produce a 2nd main crop. All three varieties require high heat to produce which generally means they are not going to ripen figs well in fall. Even if they ripen, the fruit will taste bland. There are better varieties of fall figs. I have a video on those varieties. Mt. Ednas in general produces great in the fall and tastes amazing.
Limited sunlight is usually an issue with fig production. You’ll get far more fruit from your trees if they are not shaded out and get 8 hours of sunlight regardless of variety. Peter’s Honey would be the only one that might fare better in the shade since the fruit tends to scald here like other honey varieties. Yellow Long Neck and Nixon Peace honey figs perform much better in our hot climate.
Container growing figs is a valid option. The drawback is they will stay small and not fruit much compared to an in-ground tree. You also will need to shade them out of necessity in the afternoon to prevent the roots and plant from cooking/scorching. I’m growing 6 varieties currently in 15-gallon containers on the east side of my house.
To maximize space and diversity, grafting is the way to go. I would personally use Peter’s Honey as a host tree and graft to every branch next spring with the varieties you are currently rooting. Once your grafts take off, you could opt to keep the container plants of the same variety or sell them.
It sounds like your Chicago Hardy has FMV and/or it has been infected with mites that cause FMV. Isolate it, treat it with neem oil, and fertilize it. CH is not prone to FMV so it should grow out of it but it may not be worth your time and effort to nurse it back to health. I’d personally give it a chance to improve but would toss it if I saw no improvement after 8 weeks and start over with a new tree.
@@EnlightenmentGarden Thank you so much, Natasha!!! I appreciate it so much!
Awesome video, as always!! Unrelated question, in another video noticed you have a white and black sapote close by. How close are they to each other? Thank you!
Thanks! I planted those about 4' apart.
Hello - I live in the North Phx area. Like yours my Maui is not doing as well as my Thai Dwarf. Though I was doing something wrong with the Maui. They seem to struggle here. :( Thank you for the update.
Hi. You are not alone. I got these from Jan Doolin in FL and she had a simliar situation where they got a wild storm in March and the Maui failed to fruit well this year. It may still be worth growing. Thai Dwarf is a winner no matter what so I may end up just growing that
Hello I got mine from Jan as well. I won't give up just wondering how strong they are long term. They are different for sure..Like you said the Thai Dwarf are outstanding! thank you for your outstanding channel!
@@garym972 Nice to hear good reports about Thai Dwarf. I have a rooted cutting that's doing well, and a couple of successful grafts of Maui. We'll see how they do...
Awesome! Did you have the scions in the fridge? and for how long if you did. looks great thanks
Thanks! For these grafts, I took all the scions fresh from my trees. In other years, I almost always purchased the cuttings from figaholics and kept the scions in the fridge for 4-8 weeks and had the same results.
Wow! Never would’ve thought a RP could get sunburned. I gave mine a big trim this winter so hopefully that won’t happen to mine.
Question, what soil are you going to use when you put your blackberries in larger containers?
RP gives me issues generally in winter with dieback but generally not in the summer. It was bad last year; even mature ficus struggled in those temps but did not 100% lose the canopy of leaves in my yard. The blackberries are in 20-gallon pots. I'm not going any bigger. The media is peat, perlite and sand (60%, 25%, 15%).
Nice work with the grafting! (I grafted two NSdC last year and they're both showing similarly contorted leaves. Do you think this strain might have heavy FMV?)
Thanks! I'm not sure but my chip bud graft of it last year put on little growth. The NSdC grafts I did this year were from cuttings I took from the little growth it put on. I'm hoping it does better as fig growers rave about this variety. I find that most varieties will grow out of it. The only variety I've ever struggled with on the FMV was the Ischia Black and gave up on that one
Hi Natasha, I purchased a bunch of cuttings from you this year and I grafted all of them. They all seem to have taken and all are leafing out. Last year I had many of my figs actually burn / wilt and harden or fall off during the summer. Any advice on how I can protect my harvest on the new grafts.
Hi! Thanks for your support and that's great to hear they are leafing out! Last year was not normal. Hopefully, we don't see that again this year. While not the popular advice, my advice comes with experience and I advocate to water frequently and light in summer on established trees. For one-year-old trees, I recommend watering lightly daily and deeply weekly. In the worst heat of the summer last year, I watered my mature in-ground fig trees 5 times per day to keep the rootball moist (~5 gallons per day). Depending on your microclimate and soil you may need to put down more volume or less but don't let the top soil dry out in triple digits. Main crop fruit generally drops in our climate when the plant is not getting enough water.
Some mulberries do better in pots, maui probably better in ground
True. I believe this variety originates from Hawaii. I got the cuttings from Jan Doolin. She is located in Florida (9b) and reported the same issue with her Maui trees this year (in a recent video) despite that her trees are in the ground (for several years) so it may just be a more sensitive variety
Hi Natasha, my 2nd year in ground black Madiera's leaves are turning yellow and falling off. I'm watering every day for about 30 minutes and about giving it about 8 gallons daily. It's that too much or little.
Hi Sam. If your tree is replacing those yellow leaves at the same time they drop them, then no need for concern. Figs cycle leaves as seasons change. For what it's worth, 8 gallons daily at this time is more than double what my trees are getting daily. They are getting about 2 gallons a day and will be at 4-5 in the heat of summer. I also split up my watering duration into 4 sessions per day so the trees don't get it all at once. I would check the soil around the tree. If it's wet/standing water, then I recommend reducing the volume.
Off topic. I am installing about 10 varieties of figs. I plan to keep them at 10 to 12 feet tall. I will prune way them back each dormant season.What spacing do you use on your fig trees. I was thinking 8 feet for mine but would like 6 feet. (I could plant more at a closer spacing) I am in zone 9B in northern California.
The spacing on mine varies a bit but is in the range of 6-8'. I think 6' is very doable especially if you practice pinching the buds to encourage more fruit and reduce vegetative growth.
@@EnlightenmentGarden ty!
My RP got sooty canker. It's trying to hang in.
I hope it recovers for you.
Would you ever raise a Roxburgh fig tree?
I was not familiar with this plant before your comment. While it's very interesting, I suspect Ficus auriculata would not do well in winter at my place and better suited for 10a+. It sounds like it needs a wasp for pollination of the fruit as well. I don't think I would try growing this at my current location. Thanks!
I think they do zones 9 and up but do like a fig wasp. The part that troubles me is that the fruit is "edible". But the leaves are big like shangri la mulberry. More of a shade shrub I'd say.