I put a Hellwig on the rear of my 2005 Silverado when I bought it new. Nothing I have ever done to a suspension on any vehicle I've owned over the last 60+ years made as much of an improvement as this! I put it on to tow an RV trailer and I cannot imagine ever towing again without one. I made a trip into the mountains, without the RV, shortly after I installed it and the confidence it gave in those twisty mountain highways was incredible! No leaning, just flat through the curves. I almost imagined myself in my old Corvette! Good choice and I highly recommend Hellwig for any truck that doesn't already have a rear stabilizer. You'll wonder why they haven't always been standard equipment on trucks!
I installed one of these on my Volkswagen last year and it instantly became a must have modification for all of my future cars where possible. Body roll is greatly reduced and front end grip is greatly increased for no apparent penalty. My kit came from an Australian company and came with some great Teflon lined bushes so there was no need to grease them.
It can make them more likely to oversteer at the limit which is less predictable to a novice than understeer. Plus saves money for manufacturer. On a non performance vehicle it makes sense why they wouldnt be there from factory. I need one on my truck though!
I installed a larger front bar and added a rear bar on my Ford E 150 van . The changes were outstanding !!! The towing has even changed . The trailers do not seem to push the rear of the van as much . I gt my bars from a company called Aadco . The bars were ordered from Summit . I will NEVER own another vehicle without up grading the front and rear stabilizer bars !! Great investment !
Here is a tip for you. After break-in on the rear end add 2 ounces of Bestline Oil Additive to the fluid. It increases the shear strength, keeps the fluid cooler and reduces the whiney noise!
G'day Kevin here from Australia. Eric my wife always says to me after working on my ride. Don't tell me Kevin you had to modify it to make it work. Welcome to the club Eric. ✌ Peace man
On my old C10 1986 i install a 2005 S10 Z52 Blazer rear SB find at the junk yard for $17 ($20 for link kit) and this is the best suspension improvement you can made! don't need to buy a expensive kit (like the $400 CDN Belltech) any car need this if you don't have one!
1- I've always felt Hellwig kits are generic and not well engineered, I'm betting that bar is a generic one that they use for multiple applications. 2- A better solution is to grab the factory sway bar and brackets from an OBS Suburban (not all had one but some did), it is tuned to work with the front bar, I suspect that the Hellwig bar is a little big and when the truck is pushed hard it will make it MORE tail-happy when not loaded. I've done that swap on an OBS K1500 Blazer and was very happy with the end result. 3- Those sway bar brackets/U-bolts only work well when the bar is mounted underneath, and even then factory brackets have a notch in them and a matching piece welded to the axle to keep it from spinning, and most aftermarket ones have teeth or some similar method to get them to "bite." (look at UMI) I would have just figured out where I want it exactly and tack welded them, I have 2 cars that I got rid of the U bolts, welded nuts to the inside of the bracket and welded the bracket to the housing so you can quickly bolt the bushing on. It's much easier and faster. On one of the cars I did this to make the mount "taller" spacing the bar away from the housing for more clearance (I replaced a 7.5" GM 10 bolt with a MUCH larger 9" ford housing, I needed a lot more room). I've also taken small sections of box steel and put them between the bracket/U-bolt and the sway bar bushing bracket to space the bar away from the housing in cases of a tight fit (think like leaf spring lift blocks). 4- Endlinks on lowered vehicles just need to be shorter, I would have done some measuring and from your video it looks like they needed to be cut about 2", then just make some sleaves to fit over the cuts and weld. Most aftermarket bars use standard links with the poly donuts on both sides like the bottom of your links have, those you can by in just about any length you want and then you could bolt some rear sway bar end link mounts from something like a 3rd/4th gen f-body (or a few other cars) that have bolt-on frame mounts (it would also be easy to make your own). You want the arms of the sway bar as close to parallel to the ground at ride height as possible. The only reason I'm suggesting the second is that I've broken one or more endlinks on every vehicle I've owned, it's nice to use generic parts you can get at any parts store. 5- Honestly, before 3 and 4 I would have flipped the bar over and tried it with the bend going under the housing like most factory bars are. If you could get that to fit at the points where you were hitting the housing it would be moving away from the housing.
That's a great upgrade! I did it to my magnum it came without from factory while some trim had it and I have it on the charger from factory but thicker in the front and rear. It was difficult since I had to drop the subframe, should have take it from an RT like 2nd gen charger are. It was well worth it for 15$ and few hours, same as you more stable, less side transfere, not sure if it's a downside but the car is more oversteer oriented than before
The joy of an ETCG video is all about the presentation. There's no-one else like him - classic. Still the best in the business; still the best on UA-cam. Long live Eric The Car Guy!
Eric I put one on my 2017 Silverado Z71 4x4 it made a day and night difference in a tight feel in the steering and body roll. My truck has electric power steering which I didn't feel the road in the steering wheel but with Hellwig bar I can now feel it. The bar for mine was a bolt on no drilling was required. I have heard Hellwig makes different link bars for lengths due to lifts kits might want to check to see if they make them for a lowered truck. Totally happy with mine makes driving fun and living in WV our roads are not straight...LOL. Thanks for the video
Eric claims he is going to increase the handling of the Ute by installing a sway bar. A seasoned viewer knows that the gravitational pull of Erics beard is the actual reason.
Great video... While I was watching your struggle I thought why not just invert the stabiliser bar so the bend in the middle goes under the diff. That would probably result in the link arms being vertical, the stabiliser bar being parallel to the ground, more space between the bar and the diff and would probably give you back some adjustment...
I don't think that would work at all, the links aren't long enough and the bar was designed to go above, not below the diff. It would also decrease ground clearance substantially. Thanks for the comment.
Did hellwig sway bars on the front and rear of my 96 k1500, huge improvement in handling even for a leveled 4x4 on 33s. I did have to weld the rear bar brackets to the axle because otherwise they would move over time. Definitely recommend though
You know, setting it all up with the rear wheels off and the rear end on jack stands might have made this easier to get right the first time. Just my thoughts.
nice work. I use hellwigs 950# helpers in my 96. on the 12ft wheel base, stiffened frame for towing.. I have no thoughts on adding a sway bar. In fact it stays just loose enough to be more like an old big body car...well maybe not, it is a truck after all. I hope hellwig makes stickers, I want one on my back window
Great quality video as always. Long time Eric fan here, but hasn't checked back for the past couple of years, since Eric started doing project cars. Maybe due to the beard, Eric, you looked much older than the Eric I know, in just a few years. Best wishes.
That stabilizer bar looks like its not long enough and its not coming out to each side of the frame far enough which is making the end links angle in the sway bar Eric
Well done eric, it's a great modification and calmed it down a treat :-D I expected it to fight you a little as the truck is not quite standard. Your dad may kidnap the truck now lol.
I have a 2008 Buick Lacrosse. The "Fac-try" front sway bar is hollow and the ends rust at the fold over were the sway bar links go through it. So I put a Dorman (yes, that dorman) aftermarket that is 2mm thicker and is solid. All the W body guys swear by this sway bar and is something Dorman did right. It totally changed it. I made it flat as can be. It corners so much better. It's noticeably flatter. Its one of those dumb things GM does. Penny wise, dollar foolish. They cut corners on things that could make their cars so much better. literally and extra 100 bucks per suspension on a @ body from the factory could have changed how that platform is perceived. They could easily have added that 100 bucks to the price and zero people would have not purchased those cars. More people might have.
Never got lowering a vehicle. My Tacoma came lowered and it has a harse ride. The design engineers know the optimal design. Mods may look cool but at a cost.
Lowering a vehicle lowers the roll center of gravity which is essential in having a good handling vehicle. I assume you have an X-Runner as you say that your Taco was already lowered. I have one too. The harsh ride comes from the OEM Bilstein dampers, you can soften the ride with a different set of front and rear dampers if you want. For a lot of RWD trucks, they have a high ride height from the factory as their AWD counterparts are as well - maybe a little higher. Those who are into performance, and who probably aren't going to be worried about off-roading with their RWD truck usually want to lower their truck because it offers way better handling and looks really good. With the X-Runner specifically, people are lowering them more to fill out the wheel gap when they get wheels and tires and the best side effect is that the ride quality is actually better and offers much better handling. Its like having an El Camino, but better in every way.
Might have been able to angle the axle brackets back like you had them in the beginning which would move the sway-bar away from differential then thread the vertical links the same amount truck was lowered and cut off excess.
As far as I can tell, your problem was that the threads on the sway bar links did not go up high enough, I think that I would have contacted the maker to see if they have links with more thread on them. If you are going to mess with it rotate the sway bar as close to the top of the axle as possible. Also, chop the bottoms off those end links!
@@ericthecarguy I watched the entire video. I'll bet you didn't drive it with a load in the bed. I still think that you need to rotate the sway bar closer to vertically above the rear axle. I think that it's mounted too close to horizontal (with the axle) to resist torsion under higher loading and it'll twist the way it did when you mounted it horizontally.
Eric your awesome man! I love how you always show the issues you run into when trying to customize things. I’m starting to change focus from my motorcycles to my 90 c1500. I think I will definitely be ordering one of these stabilizer links for the rear. If I do a 2 inch shackle drop in the rear to level it, will I have to worry about the yoke slamming into the extension tail on the trans? Stay dirty!
To me, it seems like that type of setup would be more effective if the mounts on the axle tube were at the top of the axle. Like if you had it now at 3 o’clock move them to 12 o’clock. You’d have to use different end links though
I've reviewed all the footage from under the truck and everything looks normal to me. I think what you're referring to is the transmission shifting. Thanks for the comment.
I wonder if that bracket angle will eventually come back to bite you. With the axle brackets pointing forward, every time you go around a corner or flex the rear suspension, you're putting a vertical force on those brackets where the bar goes through, which will make them want to spin on the axle.
you said it about squeaking, my monte installed poly bushings, it turns heads not the year or 454 making a rumble, no its the bushings, are loud, sound like ungreased ball joints.
Trucks with rear sway bars are the way after driving the snot out of my zq8 s10 that came with one its a night and day diffrence between my s10 that didnt have one
i had a 1992 GMC Sierra that i put a sway bar on. the bar came off of the front end of a 1997 ford Escort, putting it on the rear end was a two day job making drop down brackets with on old 250 volt AC transformer welder. preventing body roll/roll overs. ended up putting a 5 inch dent into the beads of the passenger side wheels. some highway that had a 10 inch tall stone block on the side of it. the tires were fine but the rims were crushed so deep that the air was leaking around the tire bead. I was annoyed because there was supposed to be yellow paint on that curb. 4 lain divided highway, about 130, caught air and held together. driving at night cant see anything even with the head lights on. But what animal goes "WHO" and doesn't need 2500 watt flood lights for the high beams on the 1990's chevy. just thinking if i wasn't wearing a seat belt, would have been catapulted out of the seat... OGM! EH! just like going on a date, not even that got a rise out of me.
God! I hate that you had such good results!... I drive a Chevy delivery van 8-10 hours a day and have been 'eyeing' this exact kit for probably 3-4 years. I always talk myself out of it by telling myself "they want $400 bucks for a bent 1 1/8" metal rod and some mounting hardware". It would be easy to never consider again if you came back and said it sucked! There is some SERIOUS sway going on with that van as is; and like I said, I drive it ALL day so I would have potentially 100s of hours of benefit... Ugh! Did I hear something about another "stim check"? That would make this much easier to splurge on... Eitherway, I think I have to do it.
parallel level to the ground on the ground loaded.. im surprised the eye's on the bar aren't horizontal.. and the top bolt that holds the link doesnt have the crush tube/spacer in the chassis rail that would be a good mod to do... with out it the links probably come loose over time or crush the chassis rail over time
I did the same on my Tundra and it helped a lot. At the time the Forums seemed to all agree that it was the best mod for the buck for improvement to the vehicle. Some say that you can get stiffer front stabilizer bar from a Sequioa that fits on the Tundra and improves stability even more. What are your thoughts on that?
Question. 97 civic 320,000 miles started to get erratic cold start idle fluctuates from 1700 to almost stalling... Now won't start, getting fuel and spark. What should I look for next?
The 2 attachment points for the mid section of the bar should be on the chassis instead of at the axle housing, shouldn't it? Something seem to be off the way it looks.
Don't they make a stock stabilizer bar for that truck? I know some Rangers had them stock. That upper linkage thing is sketchy and I'd worry about longevity. The stabilizer itself looks good though.
@Ericthecarguy 27:30 Something is dripping on the top left corner of the screen near the brake hose... Since the road looks dry, may be a good idea to investigate that issue.
Oh and Bill Burr mentions you (positively, which is weird coming from him) on the Joe Rogan podcast #1219 between '33:30 and '34:00... He seems to be looking at your work. just so you know... :-)
Look at nascar style sway bars they make kits u can use to build a custom one they are way better components and last way longer especially for autocross.
Hello Eric hope you are well. I got the email about the latest video. A bit off topic. I have seen only one video on the C8 Corvette. One of the many things of interest is how GM is using "brake by wire" (with a backup) I ask if you can give us some "tech talk" about the new Corvette? Any industry news like pay changes (I take if the industry is still using flat rate?) How about some employment/layoff talks? A buddy is a BMW Service manager. Some techs were laid off and not everyone came back when asked. Thanks.
For additional stabilization on my 99 GMC Sierra 2500 (old body style) I added Monroe Air Max air shocks on the rear with separate air valves. At 20 psi on a turn it doubles the affect of the rear sway bar. Really flat turns.
Sorry, if the bearings are turned 90 degrees upwards, the stabilizer will come higher and will no longer affect the differential. then it is not necessary to extend the thread. I do not think it is correct that the stabilizer ends are about 40 degrees upwards, it should be horizontal so that it works. if it is left like this, the rubbers will tear. Everything is under tension at the end screw connection, which is not good.
I tried every configuration, what I came up with was the best possible for my application. The end links aren't under any stress on the ground. That's the reason they are at the angle they're at. I've been driving it for several weeks now without issue. Thanks for your comment.
I put a Hellwig on the rear of my 2005 Silverado when I bought it new. Nothing I have ever done to a suspension on any vehicle I've owned over the last 60+ years made as much of an improvement as this! I put it on to tow an RV trailer and I cannot imagine ever towing again without one. I made a trip into the mountains, without the RV, shortly after I installed it and the confidence it gave in those twisty mountain highways was incredible! No leaning, just flat through the curves. I almost imagined myself in my old Corvette! Good choice and I highly recommend Hellwig for any truck that doesn't already have a rear stabilizer. You'll wonder why they haven't always been standard equipment on trucks!
I installed one of these on my Volkswagen last year and it instantly became a must have modification for all of my future cars where possible. Body roll is greatly reduced and front end grip is greatly increased for no apparent penalty. My kit came from an Australian company and came with some great Teflon lined bushes so there was no need to grease them.
It can make them more likely to oversteer at the limit which is less predictable to a novice than understeer. Plus saves money for manufacturer. On a non performance vehicle it makes sense why they wouldnt be there from factory. I need one on my truck though!
Installed rear sway bar, and upgraded the front sway bar on my 74 El Camino few months ago. Its a different car to drive, love it.
I installed a larger front bar and added a rear bar on my Ford E 150 van . The changes were outstanding !!! The towing has even changed . The trailers do not seem to push the rear of the van as much . I gt my bars from a company called Aadco . The bars were ordered from Summit . I will NEVER own another vehicle without up grading the front and rear stabilizer bars !! Great investment !
Here is a tip for you. After break-in on the rear end add 2 ounces of Bestline Oil Additive to the fluid. It increases the shear strength, keeps the fluid cooler and reduces the whiney noise!
or he just get the cover they sell on Banks power. ua-cam.com/video/vdtmDl5EDJ8/v-deo.html
G'day Kevin here from Australia.
Eric my wife always says to me after working on my ride.
Don't tell me Kevin you had to modify it to make it work.
Welcome to the club Eric.
✌ Peace man
On my old C10 1986 i install a 2005 S10 Z52 Blazer rear SB find at the junk yard for $17 ($20 for link kit) and this is the best suspension improvement you can made! don't need to buy a expensive kit (like the $400 CDN Belltech) any car need this if you don't have one!
1- I've always felt Hellwig kits are generic and not well engineered, I'm betting that bar is a generic one that they use for multiple applications.
2- A better solution is to grab the factory sway bar and brackets from an OBS Suburban (not all had one but some did), it is tuned to work with the front bar, I suspect that the Hellwig bar is a little big and when the truck is pushed hard it will make it MORE tail-happy when not loaded. I've done that swap on an OBS K1500 Blazer and was very happy with the end result.
3- Those sway bar brackets/U-bolts only work well when the bar is mounted underneath, and even then factory brackets have a notch in them and a matching piece welded to the axle to keep it from spinning, and most aftermarket ones have teeth or some similar method to get them to "bite." (look at UMI) I would have just figured out where I want it exactly and tack welded them, I have 2 cars that I got rid of the U bolts, welded nuts to the inside of the bracket and welded the bracket to the housing so you can quickly bolt the bushing on. It's much easier and faster. On one of the cars I did this to make the mount "taller" spacing the bar away from the housing for more clearance (I replaced a 7.5" GM 10 bolt with a MUCH larger 9" ford housing, I needed a lot more room). I've also taken small sections of box steel and put them between the bracket/U-bolt and the sway bar bushing bracket to space the bar away from the housing in cases of a tight fit (think like leaf spring lift blocks).
4- Endlinks on lowered vehicles just need to be shorter, I would have done some measuring and from your video it looks like they needed to be cut about 2", then just make some sleaves to fit over the cuts and weld. Most aftermarket bars use standard links with the poly donuts on both sides like the bottom of your links have, those you can by in just about any length you want and then you could bolt some rear sway bar end link mounts from something like a 3rd/4th gen f-body (or a few other cars) that have bolt-on frame mounts (it would also be easy to make your own). You want the arms of the sway bar as close to parallel to the ground at ride height as possible. The only reason I'm suggesting the second is that I've broken one or more endlinks on every vehicle I've owned, it's nice to use generic parts you can get at any parts store.
5- Honestly, before 3 and 4 I would have flipped the bar over and tried it with the bend going under the housing like most factory bars are. If you could get that to fit at the points where you were hitting the housing it would be moving away from the housing.
That's a great upgrade! I did it to my magnum it came without from factory while some trim had it and I have it on the charger from factory but thicker in the front and rear. It was difficult since I had to drop the subframe, should have take it from an RT like 2nd gen charger are. It was well worth it for 15$ and few hours, same as you more stable, less side transfere, not sure if it's a downside but the car is more oversteer oriented than before
Try this first either lowering front tires psi or raise the rear tires psi, start by 3 psi to decrease or increase at a time to fine tune it, cheers🍺
The joy of an ETCG video is all about the presentation. There's no-one else like him - classic. Still the best in the business; still the best on UA-cam. Long live Eric The Car Guy!
Thank you!
@@ericthecarguy You're most welcome as always.
Gotta love stacked clearances. Good job on the fabricobbling
Eric I put one on my 2017 Silverado Z71 4x4 it made a day and night difference in a tight feel in the steering and body roll. My truck has electric power steering which I didn't feel the road in the steering wheel but with Hellwig bar I can now feel it. The bar for mine was a bolt on no drilling was required. I have heard Hellwig makes different link bars for lengths due to lifts kits might want to check to see if they make them for a lowered truck. Totally happy with mine makes driving fun and living in WV our roads are not straight...LOL. Thanks for the video
I'll look into those links. Thanks for the comment.
@@ericthecarguy I heard one guy say Hellwig sent him extended links for his lifted Silverado for free
Hellwig makes amazing sway bars and stabilizers as well as end links great video Eric
When you have noise from the rear end you should check the intake. I mean the alimentary intake. Maybe keep away from white beans for a moment.
Eric claims he is going to increase the handling of the Ute by installing a sway bar. A seasoned viewer knows that the gravitational pull of Erics beard is the actual reason.
Great video...
While I was watching your struggle I thought why not just invert the stabiliser bar so the bend in the middle goes under the diff. That would probably result in the link arms being vertical, the stabiliser bar being parallel to the ground, more space between the bar and the diff and would probably give you back some adjustment...
I don't think that would work at all, the links aren't long enough and the bar was designed to go above, not below the diff. It would also decrease ground clearance substantially. Thanks for the comment.
EricTheCarGuy would be like a “curb feeler” for roadkill
Hi ETCG; awesome video. I’m learning much from you ChrisFix and other trusted techs I subscribed to. Keep doing what you’re doing. And thank you!
I created a drinking game where you take a shot every time Eric takes a deep sigh. I am WASTED.
Did hellwig sway bars on the front and rear of my 96 k1500, huge improvement in handling even for a leveled 4x4 on 33s. I did have to weld the rear bar brackets to the axle because otherwise they would move over time. Definitely recommend though
Thinking of swapping my stablizer bars on my Accord. Cool video!
I love your content. It makes me smile when I watch it.
Really? Makes me horny when I watch it
You know where was Eric in the 70's when I needed him lol 😆
Eric on that 70s show 😁
Thank you Eric I always love watching your videos I am from South Africa
Hello South Africa!
Great work Eric, lots of love Buddy!!!
Thank you!
EricTheCarGuy im so glad u replied Eric, means alot to me as a Fan!
Getting famous off of comments day 85, so I can live the dream🤙🤙🤙
Thumbs up Eric!
You know, setting it all up with the rear wheels off and the rear end on jack stands might have made this easier to get right the first time. Just my thoughts.
Great video ...Thanks and keep the videos coming
You can work for the truck, or the truck can work for you!
That'll do donkey That'll do 🤣🤣 good one Eric
Good job on the explanation, really enjoy the videos.
Good work Eric, I know it was a lotta backie forthie but great result from a lotta hard effort!
a stabilizer bar with links that have bends, placebo effect will do more than that
Had mine laying around for 3 years along with all polybushings.
nice work. I use hellwigs 950# helpers in my 96. on the 12ft wheel base, stiffened frame for towing.. I have no thoughts on adding a sway bar. In fact it stays just loose enough to be more like an old big body car...well maybe not, it is a truck after all. I hope hellwig makes stickers, I want one on my back window
13:26 -Eric - " That'll do donkey, that'll do!!! " - Shrek reference......hahahahaha!
You da man Eric!!!!!! Love it!
Great quality video as always. Long time Eric fan here, but hasn't checked back for the past couple of years, since Eric started doing project cars. Maybe due to the beard, Eric, you looked much older than the Eric I know, in just a few years. Best wishes.
Front and rear strutbars and stabilizer bar really improve the handling...
Hellwig sway bar for those bad hair days.
That stabilizer bar looks like its not long enough and its not coming out to each side of the frame far enough which is making the end links angle in the sway bar Eric
informative and practical thank you.
Well done eric, it's a great modification and calmed it down a treat :-D
I expected it to fight you a little as the truck is not quite standard.
Your dad may kidnap the truck now lol.
He might, and I'd be OK with that. I can't believe how much of a difference this bar made. Thanks for your comment and have a great weekend.
I did this on my 97 c1500 chevy I really liked the cornering .
now looking to do it on my 2003 gmc ,
By the way I miss the handling of that 97
I have a 2008 Buick Lacrosse. The "Fac-try" front sway bar is hollow and the ends rust at the fold over were the sway bar links go through it. So I put a Dorman (yes, that dorman) aftermarket that is 2mm thicker and is solid. All the W body guys swear by this sway bar and is something Dorman did right. It totally changed it. I made it flat as can be. It corners so much better. It's noticeably flatter. Its one of those dumb things GM does. Penny wise, dollar foolish. They cut corners on things that could make their cars so much better. literally and extra 100 bucks per suspension on a @ body from the factory could have changed how that platform is perceived. They could easily have added that 100 bucks to the price and zero people would have not purchased those cars. More people might have.
Good job your videos are so cool and they explain everything can’t wait to see you
Never got lowering a vehicle. My Tacoma came lowered and it has a harse ride. The design engineers know the optimal design. Mods may look cool but at a cost.
Lowering a vehicle lowers the roll center of gravity which is essential in having a good handling vehicle. I assume you have an X-Runner as you say that your Taco was already lowered. I have one too. The harsh ride comes from the OEM Bilstein dampers, you can soften the ride with a different set of front and rear dampers if you want. For a lot of RWD trucks, they have a high ride height from the factory as their AWD counterparts are as well - maybe a little higher. Those who are into performance, and who probably aren't going to be worried about off-roading with their RWD truck usually want to lower their truck because it offers way better handling and looks really good. With the X-Runner specifically, people are lowering them more to fill out the wheel gap when they get wheels and tires and the best side effect is that the ride quality is actually better and offers much better handling. Its like having an El Camino, but better in every way.
Might have been able to angle the axle brackets back like you had them in the beginning which would move the sway-bar away from differential then thread the vertical links the same amount truck was lowered and cut off excess.
As far as I can tell, your problem was that the threads on the sway bar links did not go up high enough, I think that I would have contacted the maker to see if they have links with more thread on them.
If you are going to mess with it rotate the sway bar as close to the top of the axle as possible.
Also, chop the bottoms off those end links!
You might want to watch the entire video. Thanks for the comment.
@@ericthecarguy I watched the entire video. I'll bet you didn't drive it with a load in the bed. I still think that you need to rotate the sway bar closer to vertically above the rear axle. I think that it's mounted too close to horizontal (with the axle) to resist torsion under higher loading and it'll twist the way it did when you mounted it horizontally.
You probably need Shorter End Links Eric
Nice one Eric
Eric your awesome man! I love how you always show the issues you run into when trying to customize things. I’m starting to change focus from my motorcycles to my 90 c1500. I think I will definitely be ordering one of these stabilizer links for the rear. If I do a 2 inch shackle drop in the rear to level it, will I have to worry about the yoke slamming into the extension tail on the trans? Stay dirty!
IDK what problems you might run into but the videos of me lowering this truck are linked in the description. You might find this build helpful.
EricTheCarGuy thanks I’ll be sure to check it out.
To me, it seems like that type of setup would be more effective if the mounts on the axle tube were at the top of the axle. Like if you had it now at 3 o’clock move them to 12 o’clock. You’d have to use different end links though
You may want to watch your video again at around 26:55 it looks like something is binding up and making the axle jerk.
I've reviewed all the footage from under the truck and everything looks normal to me. I think what you're referring to is the transmission shifting. Thanks for the comment.
I just got to the part in the video where you said the same thing I said in my last comment
I saw the Houston Inn at the intersection of Mason Morrow Milgrove RD
I wonder if that bracket angle will eventually come back to bite you. With the axle brackets pointing forward, every time you go around a corner or flex the rear suspension, you're putting a vertical force on those brackets where the bar goes through, which will make them want to spin on the axle.
13:27 Shrek impression is spot on hahaha
Think you need a new hashtag to add to this channel - #ETCGDadJokes :D
you said it about squeaking, my monte installed poly bushings, it turns heads not the year or 454 making a rumble, no its the bushings, are loud, sound like ungreased ball joints.
Since you lowered your truck 4 inches you need to take 4 inches off the end links and everything will go together as directed in the directions
Please watch the entire video.
Eric if you are not doing so already but you should be teaching.
The bar don't come with a stopper to stop the bar move left and right on the mount. You'd better to get a locker on both sides to limit the movement.
So far it hasn't been an issue.
@18:30 - That's exactly what I would've done.
Thank you sir erick Godbless as always sir😇
good video
Trucks with rear sway bars are the way after driving the snot out of my zq8 s10 that came with one its a night and day diffrence between my s10 that didnt have one
i had a 1992 GMC Sierra that i put a sway bar on. the bar came off of the front end of a 1997 ford Escort, putting it on the rear end was a two day job making drop down brackets with on old 250 volt AC transformer welder. preventing body roll/roll overs. ended up putting a 5 inch dent into the beads of the passenger side wheels. some highway that had a 10 inch tall stone block on the side of it. the tires were fine but the rims were crushed so deep that the air was leaking around the tire bead. I was annoyed because there was supposed to be yellow paint on that curb. 4 lain divided highway, about 130, caught air and held together. driving at night cant see anything even with the head lights on. But what animal goes "WHO" and doesn't need 2500 watt flood lights for the high beams on the 1990's chevy. just thinking if i wasn't wearing a seat belt, would have been catapulted out of the seat... OGM! EH! just like going on a date, not even that got a rise out of me.
The shackles were welded to the axle with 3/32 7018 ran on AC @ 138AMPS.
God! I hate that you had such good results!... I drive a Chevy delivery van 8-10 hours a day and have been 'eyeing' this exact kit for probably 3-4 years. I always talk myself out of it by telling myself "they want $400 bucks for a bent 1 1/8" metal rod and some mounting hardware". It would be easy to never consider again if you came back and said it sucked! There is some SERIOUS sway going on with that van as is; and like I said, I drive it ALL day so I would have potentially 100s of hours of benefit... Ugh! Did I hear something about another "stim check"? That would make this much easier to splurge on... Eitherway, I think I have to do it.
Just go for it. I think you'll be very happy with the results.
Hey Eric, I saw your fancy rear diff cover. Do they break the bank and where can I get one?
next up is a panhard bar? :)
Not really possible with this suspension and fuel tank location. Also, I'm happy to be 'done' with this truck for a bit.
Nice! 😉
Ezzaaaaaa!!
parallel level to the ground on the ground loaded.. im surprised the eye's on the bar aren't horizontal.. and the top bolt that holds the link doesnt have the crush tube/spacer in the chassis rail that would be a good mod to do... with out it the links probably come loose over time or crush the chassis rail over time
I realized the rear bar makes rear wheel drive cars have more grip. Without it it becomes more of a slip car.
Eric . When can we wish you a happy birth day ?
11.30
How did it affect understeer? It may not roll, but, now it just goes straight off the road in turns??
There is still some body roll, but much less than without the bar. If you want to make a vehicle handle, focus on the rear suspension.
I did the same on my Tundra and it helped a lot. At the time the Forums seemed to all agree that it was the best mod for the buck for improvement to the vehicle. Some say that you can get stiffer front stabilizer bar from a Sequioa that fits on the Tundra and improves stability even more. What are your thoughts on that?
I don't have any experience with it so I really can't say. You can go too stiff on a suspension though.
Need some window tint at least the back glass
Where did you get the black and red side trim? I’ve been looking for that for my truck lol
Question. 97 civic 320,000 miles started to get erratic cold start idle fluctuates from 1700 to almost stalling... Now won't start, getting fuel and spark. What should I look for next?
Hello,
do you also have the video of the front stabilizer?
I sure hope you end up doing a 96 Jeep XJ someday soon
Ever think about using a sway bar from a Escalade or Denali?
The 2 attachment points for the mid section of the bar should be on the chassis instead of at the axle housing, shouldn't it? Something seem to be off the way it looks.
Don't they make a stock stabilizer bar for that truck? I know some Rangers had them stock. That upper linkage thing is sketchy and I'd worry about longevity. The stabilizer itself looks good though.
@Ericthecarguy 27:30 Something is dripping on the top left corner of the screen near the brake hose... Since the road looks dry, may be a good idea to investigate that issue.
Oh and Bill Burr mentions you (positively, which is weird coming from him) on the Joe Rogan podcast #1219 between '33:30 and '34:00... He seems to be looking at your work. just so you know... :-)
Look at nascar style sway bars they make kits u can use to build a custom one they are way better components and last way longer especially for autocross.
Hello Eric hope you are well. I got the email about the latest video. A bit off topic. I have seen only one video on the C8 Corvette. One of the many things of interest is how GM is using "brake by wire" (with a backup) I ask if you can give us some "tech talk" about the new Corvette? Any industry news like pay changes (I take if the industry is still using flat rate?) How about some employment/layoff talks? A buddy is a BMW Service manager. Some techs were laid off and not everyone came back when asked. Thanks.
Hello Eric, I have a 1997 S-10 SS, 4.3L..... how hard is it to replace the spider injector??
Just curious can you mount the stabilizer bar in upside down?
whats that fluid near the right rear tire coming from? @0:45
Water from the bed.
Hi Eric,Could you Please give me some idea about the scanner to troubleshoot the car and supported for all cars?
Scanner
Can this be done to lifted Chevy Silverado 1500 none 4 wheel drive - my truck is lifted 6"
What torque wrench would you recommend?
You should have put the hoop behind the housing.
For additional stabilization on my 99 GMC Sierra 2500 (old body style) I added Monroe Air Max air shocks on the rear with separate air valves. At 20 psi on a turn it doubles the affect of the rear sway bar. Really flat turns.
Cool😎
Gd day sir,, suggestion how bout turning it backwards, face it rear not as per manual instruction,,, well ,,,
why wouldn't you thread the end links farther to compensate for the lowering of the truck
I was wondering the same thing. My guess is the parts are hardened so difficult to cut with his dies.
Sorry, if the bearings are turned 90 degrees upwards, the stabilizer will come higher and will no longer affect the differential. then it is not necessary to extend the thread. I do not think it is correct that the stabilizer ends are about 40 degrees upwards, it should be horizontal so that it works. if it is left like this, the rubbers will tear. Everything is under tension at the end screw connection, which is not good.
I tried every configuration, what I came up with was the best possible for my application. The end links aren't under any stress on the ground. That's the reason they are at the angle they're at. I've been driving it for several weeks now without issue. Thanks for your comment.