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If you like your hands, tool handles and work to look like a dirty, old gorilla, than that's your glue. I should point out that two inch pine is not typically kiln dried and so any water-proof glue should perform better than a water soluble adhesive. Besides, glue strength is vastly over rated since projects rarely fail on any properly made glue joint. Glue joints will positively fail however for folks who make a habit of gluing end-grain butt joints. No amount of monkey glue can prevent it.
I’ve used gorilla glue for all kinds of interior woodwork projects to gluing up oak doors, beech worktops joints general construction and panelling, I use it exclusively, and it is incredibly strong glue, sets up quick too, I was able to glue up clamp and finish an oak box for a Christmas present on Christmas Eve in one day with no issues at all, to remove set glued pieces the wood breaks and splinters before the glue gives, all round great glue highly recommended!
Working on O gauge model train bridge railing, so I would like most strength for my buck (in case of derailment). This video was exactly what I was looking for. Thank you. It was as scientifically controlled as it needed to be and was a great direct comparison.
I have been using Titebond for many years, original, type two and type three with no issues but I ran out one day and could only get Gorilla. I was so impressed with the preformance that I have been using it exclusively ever since. I find it easier to spread, easier to clean up and the strength is superb. Their polyurethane glue is also brilliant for outdoor use but needs to be spread thinly as it foams and is not as easy to clean up, but super strong.
I need to glue up thick oak steps for my single stringers stairs. As much as I like polyurethane glue - I think it does not cause any swelling of the wood fibres which can be a bit problematic with the dominos/biscuits. It's major strength is filling the pores in rather crappy material, while I'll be dealing with pristinely planed surfaces. I think on this occasion I will go with the simple gorilla wood glue (that white one)
lol. i'm a photographer who is getting into carpentry and been using gorilla gaffer tape for many years. so when i needed glues, grab adhesives and wood glue i bought from the brand i recognised. Very glad to see my good decision quantified so entertainingly! thank you
WOW.. all the people crying about using a butt joint.. they might want to check out the the small section from 30 seconds to 55 seconds into the video where I herd you clearly state you were testing the GLUE STRENGTH on the WEAKEST joint possable. Not the joint strength on a glued, dowl or screw reinforced joint. When your trying to get a gage of what glue is better as far as bonding capabilities this was actually i nice reference test.
Mannnnnnnnn this guy is legit. I was not expecting a science experiment out of glue testing. I loved all his inspector gadget tools, he goes above and beyond youtuber of the year lol idc.
Thank you for your review. I've tried both and have found Gorilla to be far more versatile as well, I've even joined some stonework together with it, it's great BUT it's nozzle is not, it is very hard to open because the glue seems to bond to the pull mechanism. That may not be the case elsewhere than in Australia but that's how it is here. We are made to pay the highest dollar for the lowest quality for pretty much everything.
@Tony Dean. Hmmm, let me think about that. You pay twice as much cause you can use the products all year round. Here in U.S. we pay half cause we can only use them for half the year because of winter. And your complaining?
Ive used all 3 and although all bond well, the gorilla glue turns brittle after a period of time. The titebond 3 seems to have more elasticty over a longer period of time. I usually leave the set time to 48 hrs and never an issue.
I don't think you will ever have any major issues with them. All of them got different properties. The T3 is waterproof with long curing time which is helpful in some cases. On the other had Gorilla glue is also waterproof but got shorter curing time. Then T1 is not waterproof but cures very fast. So you will use them in different circumstances.
Man, I have used Gorilla glue to repair a Les Paul headstock on its third break and it did the job. No splints and no other reinforcements. I spent hundreds of dollars on having that head stock repaired "professionally" but still broke after the first two repairs. I didn't want to ditch that guitar because it plays nice and I like the tone after quite a few mods I installed Gibson pickups. So I thought I would try the Gorilla glue and am pleased I did the job myself and saved many $s.
I make planters out of heavy wood. A 50cm x 50cm planter weighs 27kg without the 15-20kg (60 litres) of soil/compost. I use Gorilla glue and 4 pocket screws to hold the tops (where people would carry the box) as combined they are so strong. The wood will break before the glue. Nice video BTW 👍
Hi Thomas, Great review and testing I've been using Gorilla glue for a number of years and the only problem I have ever come across s how difficult it is to separate thngs once the glue has set so all n all there has been no bad issues with it at all
Pretty impressive test. The "Gorilla" glue was significantly stronger than Titebond 111 and Titebond original. Seems that I will be changing Adhesives in future for better glue joint strength!😲😲
This is very misleading, titebond wood glues are meant to be used long grain to long grain. Woodworking glue doesn't adhere well to itself, but it bonds very well with wood. This results in substandard strength when attempting to glue end grain. Woodworking techniques have evolved to account for this problem. Gorilla Glue is prohibitively expensive to use exclusively on even medium sized projects. Gorilla Glue should only be used when woodworking glue wood be ineffective, but planning a project properly usually means there are no weak joints. Test again using proper long grain to long grain joints and you'll get vastly different results.
This isn't gorilla glue, it's gorilla WOOD glue. He states he's using the weakest joint (butt to edge) for consistency. Did you watch any of the video?
Thank you for this experiment. My partner and I have used Gorilla Wood Glue for 2 legs on an antique nightstand. We thought that drilling holes for dowels could do more damage. The nightstand looks great, but I've been too nervous to place anything on it. I guess as long as it's not too heavy, it should be OK. 😊
As a Titebond 2 user, this has given me food for thought. I'm gonna be buying some gorilla glue for sure now and testing it out. Thanks for the video. Very informative.
You should try in cold weather. I had problems with the PVA glues in cold temperatures. Try to put the woods one day into the freezer only after the glues will be dried. It will be interesting.
Well they do have minimum and maximum operating temperatures. Same like paint and anything else. So yes you will have issues if you are not sticking with the recommended temperatures.
Dont forget, there is an additional substance being added to the glue; the oil from tour finger when you spread the glue. How each glue reacts to that, who knows🤷🏼 could change all the results.....
Already use it. Easily the best I’ve used for neat glue ups in the UK. Gladiator is the best I’ve ever used but it foams up and goes off like concrete so not tidy and requires a mechanical fixing (a screw) to keep the joint together while the glue cures
Yeah gorilla glue is very good I have been using it for a couple of years it's the only glue I have found that bonds mdf together plus gorilla glue is easier to buy
Gorilla - is not water soluble. Its awful to get off your hands. Doesn't clean up well. I also don't really like that it seems to foam out of joints. Its messy to get accustomed to.
Gorilla foams up a bit, so it's a great choice where there are more voids between the members. You were gluing an end-grain to the face, and end grains are quite porous. I go for gorilla when doing restoration work, or any rough-sawn wood, because there will be more dings and tears making some space. If you're going face-to-face, same-direction grains, my guess is the difference between their strength shrinks. For that I like good ol' yellow carpenter's glue, because it lasts on my shelf forever.
I use both titebond 3 and gorilla glue. for a difficult glue up I like use titebond 3 it takes a little longer and settings so gives me a little bit more time. Titebond 3 is better at water resistance also. Most of the time I go straight for the gorilla glue.
Very interesting and informative. I know its 'kinda scientific' but at least you had a load cell instead of a hammer! And its easy to see the quite notable difference in strength required to break it. After a quick bit of research, gorilla glue is slightly cheaper than titebond too! (if you're in the UK). Nice video. got a subscriber :)
I too appreciate how the test was done.as I used to work in Mechanical Testing, and we would either adapt a testing machine tooling or rig a calibrated load cell in a simuler way to do the test.
I would be using theses glues for outside use want them to be water proof and strong. I’d like to see u weather them and then do the strength test again.
Your test was done wrong. The applying the glue to the end grains will result in sucking the glue very rapidly until full saturation, so the applying must be reapplied a few times, until there is no more visible absorption, than a second surface must be covered with glue, and checked for possible surface absorption. Clamping of the both parts must be done after assuring that the surfaces do not visibly absorbing any more glue. Your test did not provide for proper saturation of the surfaces, which can be different for different glue viscosity. The Gorilla glue has probably higher viscosity them Titebond glues, especially Titebond III, resulting in less surface absorption, so for did give you falls test result. Surface saturation in the gluing process is very important and can not be ignored. It is the must step in the gluing. My best regards.
So by going on what you said in this gluing up situation the Gorilla glue is even better as it managed to give better results in the worst possible gluing up situation.
@@CasualDIY No this is false assumption. The absorption is like the deeper foundation assuring the longer in wood grains connection, so for the resulting length of the acting arm of the connecting is longer, so is the resisting moment. This is very important especially in the end grain gluing. There is no excuse doing wrong and being happy from the better results of other way wrongly done tasks. Thinks must be done correctly, every time, other way, quality is poor, regardless of the seemingly better results. My best regards.
Basically all wood glues are stronger than wood. They fill the pores and make the glued points more solid, and thus more likely for the wood to break somewhere else...if you clamp it well.
Thanks for the video , not tried Gorilla Glue for wood but have had Titebond fail. I was aiming to go back to Evostick wood glue but might give Gorilla Glue a try instead
Love gorilla glue I use it for all my wood products. Thou it didn't last long on a miter 45 box frame left out in cold garage. But that was my first box so I may not of apply it properly. I burn two 2x6's than I cut the two one at say 5inch and the other 31/2inch than glue them into a L shaped Leg and use it as a table support attached with 4 flat head furniture bolts and t-nuts and it Olds the test if my weight no problem with no screws up the side of the leg and looks like one solid piece of wood
I have been using Titebond since the early 1970s. Somebody told me early on that the wood around the glue joint would fail before the the glue joint itself. I was skeptical, but when I tried some experiment I found that to be the case. Your experiment has three problems. First, you are gluing a butt joint with wood glues. That is never recommended. Ever. For ANY wood glue. That is a design flaw in whatever project you are working on. Second, I always put glue on both surfaces. That's the manufacturer's recommendation. Third, in the odd case that your design does have to have a butt joint, that end grain piece should be "sized". I urge you to try your test again using two edge grain joints and see which comes out stronger. Bet it's not Gorilla glue.
I agree 100% percent... Maybe put the two pieces lay flat one on top of the other and pull from each side? And like u said should have put glue on both ends.... Smh
Hi, I have explained this many times in the comment section and mentioned this in the video. I'm not testing a joint strength. I have chosen the weakest possible joint so I can break them relatively easy. Don't have any machinery that would help me to achieve massive force to be able to break strong joints. Second point with adding glue to both boards you are right but again I'm not testing a joint. I went for the weakest possible connection. In all cases the joint was the same and glue application was the same hence I believe the test of glue strenght (not joint itself) was correct.
It would have been more helpful if you'd mentioned that the Gorilla Glue you were using was actually Gorilla "wood" Glue and not just Gorilla glue which is a different product.
Well the title suggests "wood glue" plus the bottle is white which indicates pva and not poly which is brown. I think its quite simple to establish which glue it is.
Would it be suitable to use Gorilla wood glue to fill holes that I have made by mistake on a bass guitar, in an attempt to reposition the bass bridge? I will need to screw screws into these holes, so the strings will be putting a certain amount of pressure....
Your results were surprising. I normally use Titebond but I have some questions. I understand that this isn't really a scientific test. However, have you considered the physics involved? Results aside, what you shown is the usefulness of levers. It seems to me that the roughly 10 inches from the joint that the torque is applied would multiply that torque by a significant amount. Have you considered that or thought of doing the math to see what the actual torque at the glue joint is? Not a burn, just a question
No, it was just a simple test that's all. And I have to say I was surprised as well. To be fair in most applications you will be using the glue it will not make that much difference I think. It was still interesting to see this simple test in my opinion.
Hi there, your video was very handy. I just tried titebond with poplar Plywood not totally impressed So I will try gorilla. Not very familiar with their range, which gorilla glue is it please?
Did you wet the other piece for the Gorilla Glue joint? GG needs water to cure, and causes it to foam and expand. So long as you use decent clamping force, this would force the glue into the fibres of the end grain, and might have made an even stronger joint. Should you have been using the words Tension or force rather than 'pressure'?
Strange as other's testing find the exact opposite!?!? I guess all look strong enough. While I'm not convinced with your set up the kind of values you measure are more than adequate for all my applications 🙂. It would have been nice to see old PVA in there 🙂as that seems to be the most universally used glue, hahaha.
And in a way that's the point of this video. There are a lot of people thinking that Titebond is the ultimate glue and Gorilla glue is far worse. The truth is they are all more or less similar where it comes to strength and it doesn't matter which one you use (obviously considering application purposes- outdoors or indoors etc). Why pay more if the cheaper glue does the same.
@@CasualDIY totally agree. I'm hoping not to have my work pulled apart by massive forces expecially as it will also be jointed or pocket screwed etc. I'm happy titebond original.
Can I suggest another glue to add to the mix? 'Cascamite' is VERY strong and was advertised ad being 'stronger than the wood itself' In my experience, the joint has never failed but the wood was torn apart when a joint was (accidentally) stressed to much. Many fails over the years. A bookshelf I made had only the edge of two shelves glued to a backboard on the wall. These took the weight of a of an encyclopedia. Using blockboard! When it was pensioned off, I tried to break it up and only broke the wood apart near the joints! I am going to use it when gluing my new bench together... Thanks for the interesting and informative video. I would love to hear the results of using Cascamite on Various tough hardwoods, like Oak etc.
Surprised at the strength of the Gorilla glue. A good test as It is testing the actual strength of the glues by using the end grain ,if another type of joint was used NOT using the end gran it would probably result in all cases that it would be the wood that gives way and then the Gorilla glue results would be more consistent with the Titebond , in all cases the only thing it would prove is that all are stronger than the wood itself.
Gorilla Glue is activated by water. None was used in this video, and the Gorilla Glue was not used as per the manufacturer's instructions. This makes the results meaningless - it may be even stronger if applied correctly!
I'm about ready to go in my corner and wonder what life is all about... In another video someone posted how the gorilla glue failed on them. Titebond is practically the number one glue used in luthier and all we have is gorilla glue. It's 50/50 at this point whether I should trust the gorilla glue or order titebond if our stores don't have any.
Okay so I've tested the gorilla glue on scrap wood I'm using and found that it is indeed a viable option (it's become a solid piece). However, I did glue the guitar headstock on the neck, but you have absolute ZERO time to clamp your pieces together!... It's ridiculous! If you are going to use gorilla glue, DO NOT TAKE YOUR TIME TO APPLY TO BOTH PIECES!!! Just apply on one piece and rush, rush, RUSH to clamp your pieces together! I purposely made my pieces very slightly curved so that the middle will exhaust the glue to try to have the wood touching together and have the glue excess more on the sides but now I have a thick slob of glue in between the wood because it started curing within 3 minutes of applying to both pieces and clamping no longer had an effect within 5 minutes. I am now scared to think about gluing the fretboard onto the neck because it is a larger surface and I will need to finish applying and clamping in under 2 minutes... I really wanted to minimize wood-glue-wood vibration transfer but that option is out the window. I guess I will confirm that gorilla glue IS reliable... You just have NO control over how much squeeze out you get from clamping unless it's a tiny project.
Thank you. They are about £8 and they are rubbish. When doing this video I have stripped the plastic theeth on two of them. It reminded me why I made my own clamps lol
Yes, I've seen some terrible guitar repairs done with GG, structurally okay i guess, but looked awful, i don't think it was the same fomula as this one though, it dried yellow.
Dear Tom, you have slipped up here mate! you have not used PVA (cheaper glue that lots of woodworkers and all schols use because its cheap?, and also lot of the Upholstery industry use, making sofa & chair frames). Ok, you used the best glue but what about the most normal?
Hi mate there's a story behind this actually. So my plan was to test 4 glues and the 4 one was a cheapo for about £4 for 1 litre. Set up everything and guess what, when I started the test I was trying to use the cheap glue and it has set in the bottle!!! I bought it about 4 weeks before the filming and it was fine. All glues are always in my garage. I think it could be the cold weather? That's why I only used those 3 glues. I didn't want to waste more time and money to get another bottle of the cheap glue.
Here in Italy, Titebond id very fashionable among "fanatic" - and maybe a little snobbish - DIYers. I - like almost everybody else - use the trad "old-fashioned" Italian Vinavil glue, probably used also by most pro's. I've seen a test by an Italian youtuber comparing many glues, including Titebond and Vinavil and made approx like yours. In ALL cases, the wood gave up before the glue! LOL. Tom, I watched your video 'cause I find you always fun but I think that I'll stick to the cheap Vinavil glue (5-6€/kg if you buy 1kg bottles; Titebond available here on Amazon at 3 to 6 times that price!). Thanks and ciao.
Check the other guy vid where his gorilla glue goes well over 100 Kg. Where is the mistake? I'm trying to figure it out. Let me know your opinion on this. Thanks
Depends on many factors. Equipment used to do the test, measuring device, type of wood ( how pours it is ), moisture content, how long the glue was setting etc.
Hi Tom, Carlo Duroni, down below came up with a "fact" that I have definetly heard sometime ago, and have heard it many times since, but when I was working in the Upholstery business perhaps?, and it was definetly said, by "knowledgeable people", Foremen or Craftsmen??, that thePVA glue that was used joining the wood was stronger than the wood?, and the wood would brake before the glue?, never researched that, as I believed it!. So I am shocked to find that in your experiment the Glue broke????, OK it was they PVA, but maybe what was said about PVA is TRUE?, (go on do it again with PVA). I agree with the Italien your good to watch & hear).
Good test Tomasz. Gut feeling only, but I have always felt gorilla glue was stronger, nice to be proved right. It is just a bit thicker which may be the difference perhaps, who knows? The gorilla glue is occasionally on offer in Aldi, so I usually stock up then. I am also suffering serious clamp envy, it would take me days to glue up the test pieces ;-(.
A much better wood glue test can be found here: ua-cam.com/video/k-g3efGa3sI/v-deo.html Keep in mind that some glues are waterproof, and some are not. If a glue tests good (but is not waterproof) and you're using it outside in the elements (rain, snow, etc) it won't do you much good. Always choose the best glue for the environment in which you're using the project in.
Big thing missing in this test is the very short cure times. I would have given the glues a 30 day cure time before stress testing to see which one demonstrates the best longterm strength.
Usually when you build furniture or anything else you don't wait 30 days for the glue to dry. You go by the drying times provided by the manufacturer - for example the Gorilla glue is 30 minutes. Long terms test would be after a year to see how the time affects the glue and joint. 30 days is pointless in my opinion.
I think Gorilla Glue would work really well on a fabric/wood joint. Certainly better than any of the PVA variants which have a chemical bond with the wood so work differently. Another glue that would work well is Canopy Glue Formula 560, that claims to stick anything to anything, but it comes in tiny 59ml bottles costing about US$8. I got on to Canopy Glue from one of the Luthier (guitar making and repair) channels. Aerosol contact adhesives would also work well, and are reasonably convenient. BTW WD40 is good for cleaning the spray nozzle after use.
Gorilla recommend their Wood Glue only for wood-to-wood, as it "won't provide a maximum bond on other surfaces", to quote the video on their website. You can see occasionally the "Gorilla Wood Glue" label in the video, but it would have been clearer if the title and the narration had explicitly referred to "Gorilla Wood Glue" rather than just "Gorilla Glue", which most people would take to be the Original.
Hi Tomasz. Enjoyed the wood glue test. I really liked your crane scale tension indicator set up. Impressed with the Gorilla glue there's quite a difference especially on the worst and laziest type of joint. Butt joint end grain avoid at all costs lol, unless you use Gorilla glue. Tony
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Would the results be much different if you'd let the glue fully cure? Or month or two should be enough.
@@WDeeGee1 for normal applications this time should be enough.
If you like your hands, tool handles and work to look like a dirty, old gorilla, than that's your glue.
I should point out that two inch pine is not typically kiln dried and so any water-proof glue should perform better than a water soluble adhesive.
Besides, glue strength is vastly over rated since projects rarely fail on any properly made glue joint.
Glue joints will positively fail however for folks who make a habit of gluing end-grain butt joints. No amount of monkey glue can prevent it.
Played the video at 1.25 speed, still sounds normal 💪
This is actually a useful tip...
I did it, forgot I did it. Definitely helped lol
1,50 in speed worked better for me. 😉
I'm subscribing regardless, this channel is informative
Lol what the heck
I’ve used gorilla glue for all kinds of interior woodwork projects to gluing up oak doors, beech worktops joints general construction and panelling, I use it exclusively, and it is incredibly strong glue, sets up quick too, I was able to glue up clamp and finish an oak box for a Christmas present on Christmas Eve in one day with no issues at all, to remove set glued pieces the wood breaks and splinters before the glue gives, all round great glue highly recommended!
Working on O gauge model train bridge railing, so I would like most strength for my buck (in case of derailment). This video was exactly what I was looking for. Thank you. It was as scientifically controlled as it needed to be and was a great direct comparison.
Thank you kindly
I have been using Titebond for many years, original, type two and type three with no issues but I ran out one day and could only get Gorilla. I was so impressed with the preformance that I have been using it exclusively ever since. I find it easier to spread, easier to clean up and the strength is superb. Their polyurethane glue is also brilliant for outdoor use but needs to be spread thinly as it foams and is not as easy to clean up, but super strong.
I just buy the one that's on offer 😁👍
@@CasualDIY If you are serious about your woodworking don't go for offers, go for quality.
@@davidjennings9253 I think both Titebond and Gorilla glue give solid results 👍
I need to glue up thick oak steps for my single stringers stairs. As much as I like polyurethane glue - I think it does not cause any swelling of the wood fibres which can be a bit problematic with the dominos/biscuits. It's major strength is filling the pores in rather crappy material, while I'll be dealing with pristinely planed surfaces. I think on this occasion I will go with the simple gorilla wood glue (that white one)
lol. i'm a photographer who is getting into carpentry and been using gorilla gaffer tape for many years. so when i needed glues, grab adhesives and wood glue i bought from the brand i recognised. Very glad to see my good decision quantified so entertainingly! thank you
Thank you for watching👍
Glad to see you used the weakest joint and tried twice for accuracy.
WOW.. all the people crying about using a butt joint.. they might want to check out the the small section from 30 seconds to 55 seconds into the video where I herd you clearly state you were testing the GLUE STRENGTH on the WEAKEST joint possable. Not the joint strength on a glued, dowl or screw reinforced joint. When your trying to get a gage of what glue is better as far as bonding capabilities this was actually i nice reference test.
That's exactly my point. Thank you so much, Thank you for watching 😁👍
@@CasualDIY Those critics are buttheads!
Mannnnnnnnn this guy is legit. I was not expecting a science experiment out of glue testing. I loved all his inspector gadget tools, he goes above and beyond youtuber of the year lol idc.
Titebond lll is my go to
Thank you for your review. I've tried both and have found Gorilla to be far more versatile as well, I've even joined some stonework together with it, it's great BUT it's nozzle is not, it is very hard to open because the glue seems to bond to the pull mechanism. That may not be the case elsewhere than in Australia but that's how it is here. We are made to pay the highest dollar for the lowest quality for pretty much everything.
I find that to about the nozzle so now after use each time I just wipe off the nozzle from glue excess and problem solved.
@Tony Dean. Hmmm, let me think about that. You pay twice as much cause you can use the products all year round. Here in U.S. we pay half cause we can only use them for half the year because of winter. And your complaining?
Great experiment and actually scientific with duplicates. Good job!
Thank you kondly
Nice video. Good to actually see the strength of the glues. I always expect a sledgehammer video when I see this type of video. Good stuff!!
Thank you kindly my friend glad you liked it 👍😁
Ive used all 3 and although all bond well, the gorilla glue turns brittle after a period of time. The titebond 3 seems to have more elasticty over a longer period of time. I usually leave the set time to 48 hrs and never an issue.
I don't think you will ever have any major issues with them. All of them got different properties. The T3 is waterproof with long curing time which is helpful in some cases. On the other had Gorilla glue is also waterproof but got shorter curing time. Then T1 is not waterproof but cures very fast. So you will use them in different circumstances.
Just glued up a guitar bridge with gorilla because its what i had available, good to hear this results. Thanks for doing this.
Thank you for watching 😁👍
Hey Just wondering how the gorilla glue did?
The gorilla glue worked fine, bridge is holding with no sign of letting go ever.
Man, I have used Gorilla glue to repair a Les Paul headstock on its third break and it did the job. No splints and no other reinforcements. I spent hundreds of dollars on having that head stock repaired "professionally" but still broke after the first two repairs. I didn't want to ditch that guitar because it plays nice and I like the tone after quite a few mods I installed Gibson pickups. So I thought I would try the Gorilla glue and am pleased I did the job myself and saved many $s.
I make planters out of heavy wood. A 50cm x 50cm planter weighs 27kg without the 15-20kg (60 litres) of soil/compost.
I use Gorilla glue and 4 pocket screws to hold the tops (where people would carry the box) as combined they are so strong.
The wood will break before the glue.
Nice video BTW 👍
Thanks for watching 👍
I built a small proa with Gorilla glue. It worked very well. Cheaper than using epoxies. I covered the boat with Fiberglass and resin. Very strong.
Hi Thomas, Great review and testing I've been using Gorilla glue for a number of years and the only problem I have ever come across s how difficult it is to separate thngs once the glue has set so all n all there has been no bad issues with it at all
That's good to know that there is no nasty surprises with it. Thanks 👍
Pretty impressive test. The "Gorilla" glue was significantly stronger than Titebond 111 and Titebond original. Seems that I will be changing Adhesives in future for better glue joint strength!😲😲
Thanks for the test, I have always used Gorilla so nice to know I was right.
Thank you for watching 👍
This is very misleading, titebond wood glues are meant to be used long grain to long grain. Woodworking glue doesn't adhere well to itself, but it bonds very well with wood. This results in substandard strength when attempting to glue end grain. Woodworking techniques have evolved to account for this problem. Gorilla Glue is prohibitively expensive to use exclusively on even medium sized projects. Gorilla Glue should only be used when woodworking glue wood be ineffective, but planning a project properly usually means there are no weak joints. Test again using proper long grain to long grain joints and you'll get vastly different results.
This isn't gorilla glue, it's gorilla WOOD glue. He states he's using the weakest joint (butt to edge) for consistency. Did you watch any of the video?
Hi i have gorilla glue never used the other its good to know its one of the best by the way love watching your vids very interesting
Thank you kindly👍😁
Yes it's became my favourite wood glue 😁
WOW, thanks for posting this, good enough for me to decide
Thank you for watching
Thank you for this experiment.
My partner and I have used Gorilla Wood Glue for 2 legs on an antique nightstand. We thought that drilling holes for dowels could do more damage.
The nightstand looks great, but I've been too nervous to place anything on it.
I guess as long as it's not too heavy, it should be OK. 😊
Glue should be stronger then wood. So should be no issues👍
Now add in the leverage formula and the numbers will be greater.
I think adding a bungee cord doubled up would help the ratchet setup pull more evenly. (If you do something like this again).
I'm planning another test however I need a different better setup to do this test.
As a Titebond 2 user, this has given me food for thought. I'm gonna be buying some gorilla glue for sure now and testing it out.
Thanks for the video. Very informative.
Thank you very much for watching 👍
Same here.
Good comparison video with an unexpected outcome! Good stuff buddy.
Thanks mate, I was really convinced that Titebond will be the best
I'm really stuck on Gorilla glue, I don't use anything else. Good video.
Thanks, yes I think its a great glue👍
You should try in cold weather. I had problems with the PVA glues in cold temperatures. Try to put the woods one day into the freezer only after the glues will be dried. It will be interesting.
Well they do have minimum and maximum operating temperatures. Same like paint and anything else. So yes you will have issues if you are not sticking with the recommended temperatures.
Wow its a good thing to know which one is stronger
It was a bit surprise to me to be honest 🤔
I am so happy I used gorilla glue for my music studio desk build its so strong and makes my workspace nice and sturdy :)
Yep it's strong that's for sure
6:47
You're welcome
Dont forget, there is an additional substance being added to the glue; the oil from tour finger when you spread the glue. How each glue reacts to that, who knows🤷🏼 could change all the results.....
Already use it. Easily the best I’ve used for neat glue ups in the UK. Gladiator is the best I’ve ever used but it foams up and goes off like concrete so not tidy and requires a mechanical fixing (a screw) to keep the joint together while the glue cures
Not heard about the Gladiator but it sound bit messy. I think the Gorilla glue will be my new favourite glue 😁👍
Nice one..........have seen similar conclusions re the Gorilla glue elsewhere. So will be changing over from Titebond
So far I'm very happy with it 😁👍
Yeah gorilla glue is very good I have been using it for a couple of years it's the only glue I have found that bonds mdf together plus gorilla glue is easier to buy
I was only using Titebond but that will change🤣
Thanks dude, we watched your video in school!
Lol
I keep both around and I really like Gorilla glue. However, when I am doing outdoor work, you may want to stay with Titebond if it is for outdoor use.
I will agree there
Gorilla - is not water soluble. Its awful to get off your hands. Doesn't clean up well. I also don't really like that it seems to foam out of joints. Its messy to get accustomed to.
Which one? 1 2 or 3?
Gorilla foams up a bit, so it's a great choice where there are more voids between the members. You were gluing an end-grain to the face, and end grains are quite porous. I go for gorilla when doing restoration work, or any rough-sawn wood, because there will be more dings and tears making some space. If you're going face-to-face, same-direction grains, my guess is the difference between their strength shrinks. For that I like good ol' yellow carpenter's glue, because it lasts on my shelf forever.
This Gorilla glue I used is pva not poly so it doesn't foam up.
I find it funny in other tests the titebond is the winner.
Maybe they were "sponsored" tests 🤔😉
Cheers for this, just wanted to know the strongest of the commercially available wood glues for a project I'm planning... Gorilla glue it is then!
They will all do you a good job, Gorilla is just cheaper - make sure to use the PVA version and not the polly
@@CasualDIY Oh I will! Cheers!
I use both titebond 3 and gorilla glue. for a difficult glue up I like use titebond 3 it takes a little longer and settings so gives me a little bit more time. Titebond 3 is better at water resistance also. Most of the time I go straight for the gorilla glue.
It seems I've been missing out, trusted Titebond for so long🤔
Very interesting and informative. I know its 'kinda scientific' but at least you had a load cell instead of a hammer! And its easy to see the quite notable difference in strength required to break it. After a quick bit of research, gorilla glue is slightly cheaper than titebond too! (if you're in the UK). Nice video. got a subscriber :)
Welcome aboard 😁👍 I was surprised with the test results to be honest. I thought Titebond would be much harder but there you go.
I too appreciate how the test was done.as I used to work in Mechanical Testing, and we would either adapt a testing machine tooling or rig a calibrated load cell in a simuler way to do the test.
Why not applying the force on the lever at the other side? That would make more sense I guess
I would be using theses glues for outside use want them to be water proof and strong. I’d like to see u weather them and then do the strength test again.
If you want long term strength that will last for years in wet enviroments get Marine glue. None of these wood glues will stand the test of time.
Can You do a test between Gorilla glue and bone glue our oldest glue for furniture, please.
Sorry never seen bone glue in my local DIY stores. I would have to look on the Web if I can get it.
Your test was done wrong. The applying the glue to the end grains will result in sucking the glue very rapidly until full saturation, so the applying must be reapplied a few times, until there is no more visible absorption, than a second surface must be covered with glue, and checked for possible surface absorption. Clamping of the both parts must be done after assuring that the surfaces do not visibly absorbing any more glue.
Your test did not provide for proper saturation of the surfaces, which can be different for different glue viscosity. The Gorilla glue has probably higher viscosity them Titebond glues, especially Titebond III, resulting in less surface absorption, so for did give you falls test result.
Surface saturation in the gluing process is very important and can not be ignored. It is the must step in the gluing.
My best regards.
So by going on what you said in this gluing up situation the Gorilla glue is even better as it managed to give better results in the worst possible gluing up situation.
@@CasualDIY No this is false assumption. The absorption is like the deeper foundation assuring the longer in wood grains connection, so for the resulting length of the acting arm of the connecting is longer, so is the resisting moment.
This is very important especially in the end grain gluing. There is no excuse doing wrong and being happy from the
better results of other way wrongly done tasks. Thinks must be done correctly, every time, other way, quality is poor, regardless
of the seemingly better results.
My best regards.
Good video. It would be interesting to see how GG compares with evo-stick wood glue which is supposed to be stronger than wood.
Never heard of that
Basically all wood glues are stronger than wood. They fill the pores and make the glued points more solid, and thus more likely for the wood to break somewhere else...if you clamp it well.
do you always clamp the items you are gluing
Nilmarie Olmo yes
Thanks for the video , not tried Gorilla Glue for wood but have had Titebond fail. I was aiming to go back to Evostick wood glue but might give Gorilla Glue a try instead
Definitely worth checking it out I know I will start using it from now😁
I have found that 3 is to much like water 💧 Did you notice this issue? Thanks • Gary from Michigan.
No no issues like that.
Hi, you'd better use a threaded joint and a wrench to apply force. Otherwise useful experiements. Thanks.
Love gorilla glue I use it for all my wood products. Thou it didn't last long on a miter 45 box frame left out in cold garage. But that was my first box so I may not of apply it properly.
I burn two 2x6's than I cut the two one at say 5inch and the other 31/2inch than glue them into a L shaped Leg and use it as a table support attached with 4 flat head furniture bolts and t-nuts and it Olds the test if my weight no problem with no screws up the side of the leg and looks like one solid piece of wood
With time comes experience 👍😁
That's really cool! Big like !
Thank you kindly
really interesting experiment!
Thanks John, I was very surprised with the outcome to be honest
I have been using Titebond since the early 1970s. Somebody told me early on that the wood around the glue joint would fail before the the glue joint itself. I was skeptical, but when I tried some experiment I found that to be the case. Your experiment has three problems. First, you are gluing a butt joint with wood glues. That is never recommended. Ever. For ANY wood glue. That is a design flaw in whatever project you are working on. Second, I always put glue on both surfaces. That's the manufacturer's recommendation. Third, in the odd case that your design does have to have a butt joint, that end grain piece should be "sized". I urge you to try your test again using two edge grain joints and see which comes out stronger. Bet it's not Gorilla glue.
I agree 100% percent... Maybe put the two pieces lay flat one on top of the other and pull from each side? And like u said should have put glue on both ends.... Smh
Hi,
I have explained this many times in the comment section and mentioned this in the video. I'm not testing a joint strength. I have chosen the weakest possible joint so I can break them relatively easy. Don't have any machinery that would help me to achieve massive force to be able to break strong joints. Second point with adding glue to both boards you are right but again I'm not testing a joint. I went for the weakest possible connection. In all cases the joint was the same and glue application was the same hence I believe the test of glue strenght (not joint itself) was correct.
When you comment you have to listen to the whole video .
Did anyone do the calculations to figure out what the actual holding strength is taking into account the leverage from the right angle joint....?
Gorilla glue girl
It would have been more helpful if you'd mentioned that the Gorilla Glue you were using was actually Gorilla "wood" Glue and not just Gorilla glue which is a different product.
Well the title suggests "wood glue" plus the bottle is white which indicates pva and not poly which is brown. I think its quite simple to establish which glue it is.
Adds Gorilla glue to shopping list. :D - Heidi
Hehe yep it's my new favourite glue 😁
What with Vice Grip Garage music intro?
Wonder how strong gorilla glue original is?
Thank you this was very helpful 😊
Thank you for watching 👍
Would it be suitable to use Gorilla wood glue to fill holes that I have made by mistake on a bass guitar, in an attempt to reposition the bass bridge?
I will need to screw screws into these holes, so the strings will be putting a certain amount of pressure....
Can you drill slightly larger holes and put wooden plugs in them? That would give you the strength you need and could be a visual feature
Very informative adventure video
Hehe thanks
You didn't show what the wook looked like. Did the wood splinter or was the only failure the glue itself?
Strangely in all cases it was just the glue joint, no splintering.
Your results were surprising. I normally use Titebond but I have some questions. I understand that this isn't really a scientific test. However, have you considered the physics involved? Results aside, what you shown is the usefulness of levers. It seems to me that the roughly 10 inches from the joint that the torque is applied would multiply that torque by a significant amount. Have you considered that or thought of doing the math to see what the actual torque at the glue joint is? Not a burn, just a question
No, it was just a simple test that's all. And I have to say I was surprised as well. To be fair in most applications you will be using the glue it will not make that much difference I think. It was still interesting to see this simple test in my opinion.
Hi there, your video was very handy. I just tried titebond with poplar Plywood not totally impressed So I will try gorilla. Not very familiar with their range, which gorilla glue is it please?
It's the Gorilla PVA wood glue 👍
Did you wet the other piece for the Gorilla Glue joint? GG needs water to cure, and causes it to foam and expand. So long as you use decent clamping force, this would force the glue into the fibres of the end grain, and might have made an even stronger joint. Should you have been using the words Tension or force rather than 'pressure'?
The Gorilla glue I used it's the PVA version👍
@@CasualDIY It's Gorilla Glue Original that needs water to cure and expands. Gorilla Wood Glue does neither.
Witam jestem w szoku bo każdy Titebond najlepszy klej, tu lekie rozczarowanie pozdrawiam serdecznie.👍
Sam byłem w szoku lol również pozdrawiam😁👍
Strange as other's testing find the exact opposite!?!? I guess all look strong enough. While I'm not convinced with your set up the kind of values you measure are more than adequate for all my applications 🙂. It would have been nice to see old PVA in there 🙂as that seems to be the most universally used glue, hahaha.
And in a way that's the point of this video. There are a lot of people thinking that Titebond is the ultimate glue and Gorilla glue is far worse. The truth is they are all more or less similar where it comes to strength and it doesn't matter which one you use (obviously considering application purposes- outdoors or indoors etc). Why pay more if the cheaper glue does the same.
@@CasualDIY totally agree. I'm hoping not to have my work pulled apart by massive forces expecially as it will also be jointed or pocket screwed etc. I'm happy titebond original.
Can I suggest another glue to add to the mix? 'Cascamite' is VERY strong and was advertised ad being 'stronger than the wood itself' In my experience, the joint has never failed but the wood was torn apart when a joint was (accidentally) stressed to much. Many fails over the years.
A bookshelf I made had only the edge of two shelves glued to a backboard on the wall. These took the weight of a of an encyclopedia. Using blockboard! When it was pensioned off, I tried to break it up and only broke the wood apart near the joints! I am going to use it when gluing my new bench together... Thanks for the interesting and informative video. I would love to hear the results of using Cascamite on Various tough hardwoods, like Oak etc.
Thanks for the suggestion. I'll try to make another test some time in the future👍
Interesting Gorilla wood glue
👍
Very interesting video. Thanks!!
Glad you like it, thanks for watching 👍😁
Surprised at the strength of the Gorilla glue. A good test as It is testing the actual strength of the glues by using the end grain ,if another type of joint was used NOT using the end gran it would probably result in all cases that it would be the wood that gives way and then the Gorilla glue results would be more consistent with the Titebond , in all cases the only thing it would prove is that all are stronger than the wood itself.
Exactly 👍
Very informative!
Thanks
Make a comparison test with Pattex, Bison, etc. it would be interesting.
Great suggestion!
Gorilla Glue is activated by water. None was used in this video, and the Gorilla Glue was not used as per the manufacturer's instructions. This makes the results meaningless - it may be even stronger if applied correctly!
This is PVA mate not poly.
which Gorilla glue was used? Also, were the butt joints completely flush; or, were there imperfections in the different surfaces?
PVA, and the joints were flush in all joints.
Where in the uk did u learn your accent
I mix titebond, gorilla and evo together it’s really good.
Lol what a mix
Thanks man!
I'm about ready to go in my corner and wonder what life is all about... In another video someone posted how the gorilla glue failed on them. Titebond is practically the number one glue used in luthier and all we have is gorilla glue. It's 50/50 at this point whether I should trust the gorilla glue or order titebond if our stores don't have any.
Okay so I've tested the gorilla glue on scrap wood I'm using and found that it is indeed a viable option (it's become a solid piece). However, I did glue the guitar headstock on the neck, but you have absolute ZERO time to clamp your pieces together!... It's ridiculous! If you are going to use gorilla glue, DO NOT TAKE YOUR TIME TO APPLY TO BOTH PIECES!!! Just apply on one piece and rush, rush, RUSH to clamp your pieces together!
I purposely made my pieces very slightly curved so that the middle will exhaust the glue to try to have the wood touching together and have the glue excess more on the sides but now I have a thick slob of glue in between the wood because it started curing within 3 minutes of applying to both pieces and clamping no longer had an effect within 5 minutes. I am now scared to think about gluing the fretboard onto the neck because it is a larger surface and I will need to finish applying and clamping in under 2 minutes... I really wanted to minimize wood-glue-wood vibration transfer but that option is out the window.
I guess I will confirm that gorilla glue IS reliable... You just have NO control over how much squeeze out you get from clamping unless it's a tiny project.
What dog hole clamps are those? The blue and black ones..cool video.
Thank you. They are about £8 and they are rubbish. When doing this video I have stripped the plastic theeth on two of them. It reminded me why I made my own clamps lol
From a luthier perspective, most people avoid gorilla glue because although it's strong it's an expanding glue, unlike titebond.
Not this one mate. This gorilla glue it's PVA not poly.
Yes, I've seen some terrible guitar repairs done with GG, structurally okay i guess, but looked awful, i don't think it was the same fomula as this one though, it dried yellow.
@@wildeman1253 that was the poly version, the one I use is pva
Dear Tom, you have slipped up here mate! you have not used PVA (cheaper glue that lots of woodworkers and all schols use because its cheap?, and also lot of the Upholstery industry use, making sofa & chair frames).
Ok, you used the best glue but what about the most normal?
Hi mate there's a story behind this actually. So my plan was to test 4 glues and the 4 one was a cheapo for about £4 for 1 litre. Set up everything and guess what, when I started the test I was trying to use the cheap glue and it has set in the bottle!!! I bought it about 4 weeks before the filming and it was fine. All glues are always in my garage. I think it could be the cold weather? That's why I only used those 3 glues. I didn't want to waste more time and money to get another bottle of the cheap glue.
So the moral is, the cheap glue is pants didn't even mange to use it lol
Here in Italy, Titebond id very fashionable among "fanatic" - and maybe a little snobbish - DIYers. I - like almost everybody else - use the trad "old-fashioned" Italian Vinavil glue, probably used also by most pro's. I've seen a test by an Italian youtuber comparing many glues, including Titebond and Vinavil and made approx like yours. In ALL cases, the wood gave up before the glue! LOL.
Tom, I watched your video 'cause I find you always fun but I think that I'll stick to the cheap Vinavil glue (5-6€/kg if you buy 1kg bottles; Titebond available here on Amazon at 3 to 6 times that price!). Thanks and ciao.
Has anyon used VITALBOND ORIGINAL ALIPHATIC WOOD GLUE Made by Titebond
Thank you , I have been a fan of Gorilla glue for a while. Was thinking about trying Titebond , not any more.
I was a fan out Titebond lol
Great informative video
Thank you very much 👍
Is there a reason why you didn't wet the part as stated in the Gorilla Glue instructions? I wonder if it would have been even stronger.
This is a PVA Gorilla glue not poly
Check the other guy vid where his gorilla glue goes well over 100 Kg. Where is the mistake? I'm trying to figure it out. Let me know your opinion on this. Thanks
Depends on many factors. Equipment used to do the test, measuring device, type of wood ( how pours it is ), moisture content, how long the glue was setting etc.
hi there! any suggestions on what would be the scientific procedure of getting results on the different kinds of these glues? Thanks!
Sorry I'm not a scientist 🤣
@@CasualDIY bummer, haha! Thanks anyways nice video 👌🏻
Isn’t this vice grip garage theme?
Hi Tom,
Carlo Duroni, down below came up with a "fact" that I have definetly heard sometime ago, and have heard it many times since, but when I was working in the Upholstery business perhaps?, and it was definetly said, by "knowledgeable people", Foremen or Craftsmen??, that thePVA glue that was used joining the wood was stronger than the wood?, and the wood would brake before the glue?, never researched that, as I believed it!.
So I am shocked to find that in your experiment the Glue broke????, OK it was they PVA, but maybe what was said about PVA is TRUE?, (go on do it again with PVA).
I agree with the Italien your good to watch & hear).
Yes mate I think I can do few more experiments. Got the gear for it 😉and thank you 😁👍
That is true when gluing side grain together not end grain to side grain like this test .
Good test Tomasz. Gut feeling only, but I have always felt gorilla glue was stronger, nice to be proved right. It is just a bit thicker which may be the difference perhaps, who knows? The gorilla glue is occasionally on offer in Aldi, so I usually stock up then. I am also suffering serious clamp envy, it would take me days to glue up the test pieces ;-(.
Yes I picked it up from Aldi as well 👍😁 I honestly thought that Titebond would be far stronger but I proved myself wrong lol
That is true when gluing side grain together . Not side to end grain like this test.
@@niklasschenck8486 Not sure what you're referring to. The distinction could be interesting, so could you possibly expand?
A much better wood glue test can be found here: ua-cam.com/video/k-g3efGa3sI/v-deo.html Keep in mind that some glues are waterproof, and some are not. If a glue tests good (but is not waterproof) and you're using it outside in the elements (rain, snow, etc) it won't do you much good. Always choose the best glue for the environment in which you're using the project in.
Big thing missing in this test is the very short cure times. I would have given the glues a 30 day cure time before stress testing to see which one demonstrates the best longterm strength.
Usually when you build furniture or anything else you don't wait 30 days for the glue to dry. You go by the drying times provided by the manufacturer - for example the Gorilla glue is 30 minutes. Long terms test would be after a year to see how the time affects the glue and joint. 30 days is pointless in my opinion.
This could be a weird question but if I want to attach fabric to wood do I use wood glue??
I used normal spray glue for fabrics and anything's else really
I think Gorilla Glue would work really well on a fabric/wood joint. Certainly better than any of the PVA variants which have a chemical bond with the wood so work differently. Another glue that would work well is Canopy Glue Formula 560, that claims to stick anything to anything, but it comes in tiny 59ml bottles costing about US$8. I got on to Canopy Glue from one of the Luthier (guitar making and repair) channels. Aerosol contact adhesives would also work well, and are reasonably convenient. BTW WD40 is good for cleaning the spray nozzle after use.
Gorilla recommend their Wood Glue only for wood-to-wood, as it "won't provide a maximum bond on other surfaces", to quote the video on their website. You can see occasionally the "Gorilla Wood Glue" label in the video, but it would have been clearer if the title and the narration had explicitly referred to "Gorilla Wood Glue" rather than just "Gorilla Glue", which most people would take to be the Original.
Bravo 👏
👍😁
Hi Tomasz.
Enjoyed the wood glue test. I really liked your crane scale tension indicator set up. Impressed with the Gorilla glue there's quite a difference especially on the worst and laziest type of joint. Butt joint end grain avoid at all costs lol, unless you use Gorilla glue. Tony
Hehe thanks 👍😁 yes used this joint as I wasn't sure how strong the bond will be as I really didn't want to use my car to take them apart 🤣