Wow for years been hearing people wine about the doohickey thing, but this is the first video that ever covered the adjustment on it. Good for you Man, thanks
The only (1) serious issue that would make me *_not_* buy the newer *2022 KLR 650* is: *_the doohickey_* in the engine that goes bad after about 5000 miles & may ruin the engine. And _yes_ this is still a problem on the 2022 models, I'm told by non-Kawasaki dealers. Addendum - The small issues that also make me *_not_* want any KLR 650 single: - way too high of a 1st gear, - too heavy/sluggish, i.e power to weight ratio, - no tachometer, - many other 2022 adventure motorcycles are *_higher tech._* & have *_better features_*
@@sweetcostarica having put 30,000 miles on a gen 2, just buy one and ride the damned thing. Rejet the carb and it's snappier. Even the $.22 mod makes a very noticeable difference.
Oil changes and chain/sprocket maintenance are the two issues to stay on top of but to often are overlooked. Things will just last a lot longer with fresh oil and chain lube.
All that debris is why I do my break in oil changes in 3 stages. One at 300 miles, one at 600 miles, and one at 1k miles. That way I'm good and sure that all the break in debris is gone
Thanks for your vids. I think following the KLR manuals and demonstrating required services is great, highly commendable. Too many run until a failure, and that is not the way to care for a bike. Use torque wrenches 😎👍
When changing the oil on my Vaquero. Since it uses 4.7Qts of oil with filter change I pour the ,3 in as the oil drains to push out some of the old oil as much as possible. Not sure it really makes a difference but makes me feel better.
I think it’s recommended that a dealer perform the 600 mile service just because many people whom buy a motorcycle could be new owners/new riders. Seems that the 600 mile service is just draining the break in oil and refilling with Kawa 10w40. The dealer would also be checking anything else to ensure the bike was assembled correctly. The KLR has had some steering issues that definitely should be addressed during the 600 mile service.
Great information. I just did my first oil change yesterday on 2022 KLR and seen this video afterwards. I went back and removed new oil filter to double check metal cylinder in middle was in the correct way. It was but didn’t know it could cause severe engine damage if it wasn’t. Bike was still on my lift so hadn’t rode it yet. Thx
This is the very reason the manufacturer recommends that first service. The items in the filter are bits of gasket, sealant and perhaps bits of various metals. Just like keeping bugs out of food processing (impossible) it’s just part of the manufacturing process…and there is a certain amount that is acceptable. My guess is had you not seen it you’d be none the wiser. Folks these things are not medical industry sterile when manufactured.
@@SwankyCatProductions I had the colorful stuff too. It must be paint pen used during assembly QC, like on other fasteners around the bike. Thanks for the videos!
Great video, thank you. I’m a former Harley rider, now KLR owner and never had tubed tires. When I replace the tires, do I need new tubes too or is it okay to reuse the old ones?
Very good question! While I have reused tubes in the past, it's generally not a great idea. The valve stems often start to rust and it's easy to pinch them during removal. I'd also highly recommend using heavier duty tubes if you'll be off road a lot. Prior to running them on my gen2 I hit a big rock off road and ended up with a flat. Here's the install I did on mine few years back. There's links to all the stuff I used in the "more" section. DON'T use the front D-Sport though! The KLR is to heavy for it. I'd go Tusk D-Sport rear and Tusk Waypoint front. ua-cam.com/video/EUt_U6IWZ5o/v-deo.html
Nope, never. As long as you clean or replace the crush washer and clean the bottom side of the engine, where the washer seals against, it should be just as good, if not better than stock.
My Gen two owners manual stated info on the cam tensioner but not my 2023 Gen three ? At 1300 miles engine making a ticking noise so dealer replaced the tensioner and cam chain under warranty then overfilled the engine oil so much I had to tilt bike to be able to see a bubble in the site glass so took some out myself. My previous Gen two was purchased new and came off the showroom with an overfilled engine oil. Dealerships in Arkansas have some problems.
Thanks for the video just did the first oil change on my klr. I will stay tuned for more of your videos. Btw what tires are on your bike? How do you like them? I come from a desert racing background so this adventure bike has been a def change in pace for me. I'm definitely digging it though. The stock tires are killing me off road and have to go!! I do ride the bike to work once in a while on nice days
Hey Nik! The tires are Tusk D-Sport Adventures. They're DOT approved but the front gets a little loose feeling above 55mph even when over inflated to 28 psi (at the recommend 21 they are even worse). If you plan to do some higher speeds I'd recommend the MotoZ Tractionators Adventures. I have them on my Tenere and love them! Rear: www.rockymountainatvmc.com/tires-and-wheels/motoz-tractionator-adventure-rear-motorcycle-tire-p/? Front: www.rockymountainatvmc.com/tires-and-wheels/motoz-tractionator-adventure-front-motorcycle-tire-p/?
Great rundown! I had the same issue with the brake light on my '23. I guess as everything settled in the brake light switch migrated to an always on position. Easy enough to fix and thankfully I caught it after I got home from picking the bike up. Also, be aware if you adjust the height of your brake pedal you will have to adjust the brake light switch as well to compensate.
I don't anymore. The less time it's open the less chance I have to knock dirt into it from somewhere up above. Doesn't seem to keep any oil from getting out or anything
I did 2 oil changes withnon synthetic oil then let deal doo e w full syn. At 500 miles for the record. The oil comes out from silver metal swirl. Magnetic drain plug when I got it home from dealer new
Great run down of the service interval. I think I should finally get around to picking up that low profile plug for the next oil change. Thanks for the link.
They're DirtRacks, made up in Canada by hand actually. They've been sort of a sponsor of the channel since back when I had my gen2. I've got them on my Tenere as well. Never let me down and I would highly recommend them. Fairly priced and a lifetime warranty! ua-cam.com/video/cY9IbOIpVdI/v-deo.html
15:05 Exactly. Lots of stuff is because the tech who is looking at the bike has never ridden it (IE: your bike) so they need to check everything. If your throttle is sticky or brakes not working, etc, you'd know it.
Yep definitely and honestly being able to understand and adjust stuff like that is really important. I'll admit I had no idea what was going on with my throttle the first time it locked up but it would have made the rest of the ride a lot easier if I'd have known what to look for!
@@donaldroe8355 nope, not at all haha. I only pay about $20 to $40 US for them used on eBay so I just bring a plastic bag along in my pack in case it rains. Haven't lost one yet!
@@rustyharvey4155 zero. Used mobil 1 4T after my break in period and at 5000 i switched to Amsoil. Got a coworker who deals the stuff and at $9/quart it was too sweet to pass up a case of it. I think the oil consumption is a non issue if you keep it below 70. Or in other words. Keep the revs low. I make it a point to do both
Wow, everything looks the same or near identical to my 2018 gen2. Glad that someone at Kawasaki decided that 'if it ain't broke-don't fix it'. Thanks for the doohickey adjustment heads up. I've hit 9k on mine and need to get a shop manual to really get a maintenance schedule up and going. I did want to ask if you ever had any issues with your gen2 doohickey that in an older video you said you'd leave it be and see what happens. I just can't believe that Kawasaki didn't address the supposed doohickey fatal weakness for 30+ years if it really was a problem. I am however wanting to add the thermo bob mod. Looks like you're running Continental tires because mine came with them from the PO. They're great and solid in the rain and gravel but I'm really wanting something less aggressive because I'm on pavement 90 percent of the time with a little gravel thrown in. Great video as usual.
Thanks! My Gen2 ran just fine with the stock doohickey until it was totaled in an accident at 24k. I think if you want one to last a really long time then the doohickey should get changed but otherwise... eh it'll prolly be ok lol. The thermobob makes a lot of sense to me, might not be worth the price even if you do end up having to refill the oil now and then but it's nice to have for all the slow moving off road riding I do.
I changed mine at around 400. Cut my oil filter media apart and rolled it flat for inspection under a bright light. Didn't find much for metal but I did find a bunch of paint(?) particles blue....white....pink... I'm guessing it was from assembly markings. The good thing is the filter caught it all. Keep up the great work on the videos.
Excellent video for the new KLR owner. I had the dealer do the 600 mile service but I plan on changing the oil next time myself. Thank you for posting. Great reference for future oil changes. Owners manual says 2.1 quarts of oil for the KLR but the forum (KLR) has a comcensus of 2.5 quarts. I think the 2.5 quarts might have been a value used on older KLRs but not sure. 🤷🏻♂️
Glad to hear that, thanks! Hmm, interesting. I never paid too close of attention to the exact amount I used on either of my KLRs. I usually would dump in about 2 and then go from there after checking intermediately.
Multiple filters is always a good thing. My DRZ filters get bad after one or two days of riding, so I have three filters and pack them as well as my filter cleaning supplies in my cargo trailer when I go camping.
I think there were a few options, I don't recall if synthetic was an option or not but I stick with conventional because it can't slip past the rings as easy.
Dig the content. I think the grease on the gasket on the oil filter is to prevent pinching the gasket during install. I actually pinched my oil filter gasket because I only used motor oil instead of the grease like Kawi recommends. I then used grease and haven't had an issue yet.
@@SwankyCatProductions yeah, no one seems to know. Service manager explained that there is some sort of break-in software installed which needs to be cleared out at first service. Absolutely no one else I’ve talked to has ever heard of such a thing. The service bill reflects that a software change was made. I don’t seem to have been charged extra for it. Hell if I know?
"Worth it" money wise, no probably not. You'd need to burn a lot of oil to even out the cost of possibly avoiding it. But I do believe it's a helpful mod and will improve longterm longevity. Makes me feel better too haha.
I say it is junk. Do not add thermobob. Cylinders will always wear eccentrically in the direction of crankshaft rotation. Just perform recommended services as per the manual.
1:14 Guessing they intended it to be on dirt and gravel roads vs the kinds of fun and harder trails we all want to do :) Why not put in on the side like the Versys does? My Enduro Engineering plate has a nice bulge to protect it which is nice but those low profile bolts look sweet :)
Yeah I'm sure your right, they have to know by now we don't use them as directed though haha. My T7 has it right on the front which makes it really easy to get at... after you chip all the mud off that is lol.
I just wanted to warn you there have been reports of the Tusk low profile oil drain plugs cracking. If you have one already, they suggest not tightening it anymore than 14 to 16 foot pounds.
Don't forget to hit the plug with a metal hammer to shock the threads loose. People strip threads all the time because thermal expansion locks the plugs to the threads.
@@SwankyCatProductions KTM's manual specifies it on the RFS models and I have doing it on everything now. If something has an allen fitting then I just put the allen wrench in and hit it with a metal mallet.
Question? Why do you use aftermarket filters? Sure they are OEM equivalent but who governs that or sets standards? I personally use OEM because if the filter fails I have Kawasaki to fall back on which is far more experienced and equipped to care for me if a failure occurs. Over the years as a motorcycle technician I’ve seen DIY customers suffer greatly at the hands of the aftermarket when it comes to paying for repairs related to product failure. Lastly did you really just tighten the balance chain adjuster bolt without a proper torque wrench? Viewers please don’t do that.
To each their own but I've never had an issue with uni filters. Never had one rip or separate and have yet to see any dirt on the leaving side of the foam. I'm confused what you mean about having Kawasaki to fall back on... are you referring to the 1 year warranty period? As for the torque wrench, your right that wasn't smart, should always be done with a torque wrench.
@@SwankyCatProductions To each there own is right. I think as a content provider it is important to not steer your viewers in the wrong direction especially if the bike may still be under warranty. Food for thought no?
@@chadgilbertson3071 That is what many believe. On occasion I’ve seen manufacturers exercise their right to refuse warranty due to modifications….filters being one of those modifications. Certainly doesn’t happen often but it does occur more than you might imagine.
@bluezhawg2104 false. They cant deny warranty due to using aftermarket filters. Thanks to the Magnuson-Moss Act. Maybe its people like you that spread false theories that makes people think they have to use oem parts.
Regarding torque specs, the Kawasaki service manual has... questionable numbers for both the oil plug drain bolt and the idle shaft lever ("doohickey") bolt. Service manual: Oil Plug Drain: 21 ft-lbs Idle Shaft Lever: 115 in-lbs Most KLR owners go for around 15-17 ft-lbs & 69-78 in-lbs respectively.
Dude. Your low-down, direct explanation of basic maintenance is so refreshing. Thanks for keeping lessons relatable, bro.
Thank man!
Wow for years been hearing people wine about the doohickey thing, but this is the first video that ever covered the adjustment on it. Good for you Man, thanks
The only (1) serious issue that would make me *_not_* buy the newer *2022 KLR 650* is:
*_the doohickey_* in the engine that goes bad after about 5000 miles & may ruin the engine.
And _yes_ this is still a problem on the 2022 models, I'm told by non-Kawasaki dealers.
Addendum -
The small issues that also make me *_not_* want any KLR 650 single:
- way too high of a 1st gear,
- too heavy/sluggish, i.e power to weight ratio,
- no tachometer,
- many other 2022 adventure motorcycles are *_higher tech._* & have *_better features_*
@@sweetcostarica dude if you need to use a tachometer you are doing it wrong
@@Khan-ve5oqYou're funny. Have a great 2022!
@@sweetcostarica if you need a tachometer, you need to learn the bike a bit better.
@@sweetcostarica having put 30,000 miles on a gen 2, just buy one and ride the damned thing. Rejet the carb and it's snappier. Even the $.22 mod makes a very noticeable difference.
Oil changes and chain/sprocket maintenance are the two issues to stay on top of but to often are overlooked. Things will just last a lot longer with fresh oil and chain lube.
Agreed!
The "doohickey" bolt wasn't loose, its only supposed to be 8 foot lbs (100 ish inch pounds) great video but it looks like you WAY over tightened it.
Parallel to the ground for all works please :P That'd get interesting :D Great video bud.
All that debris is why I do my break in oil changes in 3 stages. One at 300 miles, one at 600 miles, and one at 1k miles. That way I'm good and sure that all the break in debris is gone
Great video! Snagged me a 2024 KLR last month. Waiting for the oil change kit to arrive from Rocky Mtn!
Thanks for your vids. I think following the KLR manuals and demonstrating required services is great, highly commendable. Too many run until a failure, and that is not the way to care for a bike. Use torque wrenches 😎👍
When changing the oil on my Vaquero. Since it uses 4.7Qts of oil with filter change I pour the ,3 in as the oil drains to push out some of the old oil as much as possible. Not sure it really makes a difference but makes me feel better.
All that matters is the condition of the filter. Don't waste oil. The filter ensures particles are small enough to be safe.
Do you ever wash your bikes?
Thanks for the info on the doohickey adjustment 👍
Glad it helped!
I put nicecnc glass oil filter cover on too. You can see oil flowing . Cool for sure.
A Hose and Bucket of Soapy Water Helps!
I didn't know you could do the 600-mile service yourself. I thought you were supposed to take the bike in to an authorized service center!
Nope. You're allowed by law to do your own maintenance and it will not void the warranty
I think it’s recommended that a dealer perform the 600 mile service just because many people whom buy a motorcycle could be new owners/new riders. Seems that the 600 mile service is just draining the break in oil and refilling with Kawa 10w40. The dealer would also be checking anything else to ensure the bike was assembled correctly. The KLR has had some steering issues that definitely should be addressed during the 600 mile service.
Just picked up a 23. Thanks for the video
Nice! Enjoy it!
The color in the filter was from marking paint during assembly. They mark all critical fasteners with a paint pen after they are properly torqued.
Ahhaaa! I knew it looked familiar but couldn't place it.
Great information. I just did my first oil change yesterday on 2022 KLR and seen this video afterwards. I went back and removed new oil filter to double check metal cylinder in middle was in the correct way. It was but didn’t know it could cause severe engine damage if it wasn’t. Bike was still on my lift so hadn’t rode it yet. Thx
Pretty sure it only goes in one way. So it can't be put in backwards.
@@ZenithClarity asi es
My oil filter looked just like yours with all of the colors in it. That must be normal. Thanks for the video
I think your right, I'd really like to know what the heck they were though lol.
This is the very reason the manufacturer recommends that first service. The items in the filter are bits of gasket, sealant and perhaps bits of various metals. Just like keeping bugs out of food processing (impossible) it’s just part of the manufacturing process…and there is a certain amount that is acceptable. My guess is had you not seen it you’d be none the wiser. Folks these things are not medical industry sterile when manufactured.
@@SwankyCatProductions I had the colorful stuff too. It must be paint pen used during assembly QC, like on other fasteners around the bike. Thanks for the videos!
If i like so very much my klr 600 then i guess im gonna fall in love with this young lady.
Dear Skanky - Those KLR's run better with a Banana in the tailpipe
Hahahah maybe I'll try that.
Great video, thank you. I’m a former Harley rider, now KLR owner and never had tubed tires. When I replace the tires, do I need new tubes too or is it okay to reuse the old ones?
Very good question! While I have reused tubes in the past, it's generally not a great idea. The valve stems often start to rust and it's easy to pinch them during removal. I'd also highly recommend using heavier duty tubes if you'll be off road a lot. Prior to running them on my gen2 I hit a big rock off road and ended up with a flat. Here's the install I did on mine few years back. There's links to all the stuff I used in the "more" section. DON'T use the front D-Sport though! The KLR is to heavy for it. I'd go Tusk D-Sport rear and Tusk Waypoint front. ua-cam.com/video/EUt_U6IWZ5o/v-deo.html
Did you experience leakage with the Tusk drain plug?
Nope, never. As long as you clean or replace the crush washer and clean the bottom side of the engine, where the washer seals against, it should be just as good, if not better than stock.
Man. I did my first oil and filter change at 300 miles and then again at 600 miles, glad I did, oil looked pretty dark !
I had a hard time waiting but I finally made it!
My Gen two owners manual stated info on the cam tensioner but not my 2023 Gen three ? At 1300 miles engine making a ticking noise so dealer replaced the tensioner and cam chain under warranty then overfilled the engine oil so much I had to tilt bike to be able to see a bubble in the site glass so took some out myself. My previous Gen two was purchased new and came off the showroom with an overfilled engine oil. Dealerships in Arkansas have some problems.
Thanks for the video just did the first oil change on my klr. I will stay tuned for more of your videos. Btw what tires are on your bike? How do you like them? I come from a desert racing background so this adventure bike has been a def change in pace for me. I'm definitely digging it though. The stock tires are killing me off road and have to go!! I do ride the bike to work once in a while on nice days
Hey Nik! The tires are Tusk D-Sport Adventures. They're DOT approved but the front gets a little loose feeling above 55mph even when over inflated to 28 psi (at the recommend 21 they are even worse). If you plan to do some higher speeds I'd recommend the MotoZ Tractionators Adventures. I have them on my Tenere and love them!
Rear: www.rockymountainatvmc.com/tires-and-wheels/motoz-tractionator-adventure-rear-motorcycle-tire-p/?
Front: www.rockymountainatvmc.com/tires-and-wheels/motoz-tractionator-adventure-front-motorcycle-tire-p/?
Just hit 150 miles on the same exact bike and your video was very informative, thanks. And you have a new subscriber.
Thanks man! Glad to have you watching!
Great rundown! I had the same issue with the brake light on my '23. I guess as everything settled in the brake light switch migrated to an always on position. Easy enough to fix and thankfully I caught it after I got home from picking the bike up. Also, be aware if you adjust the height of your brake pedal you will have to adjust the brake light switch as well to compensate.
Wow, great video. I'll be doing my 600 break in service shortly, so very much appreciate you sharing your knowledge.
Wouldn't it make more sense to open the oil fill cap a little bit before pulling the plug?
I don't anymore. The less time it's open the less chance I have to knock dirt into it from somewhere up above. Doesn't seem to keep any oil from getting out or anything
Good run through! I’ll be coming up on my first service soon abs it was nice to see yours done first
I did 2 oil changes withnon synthetic oil then let deal doo e w full syn. At 500 miles for the record. The oil comes out from silver metal swirl. Magnetic drain plug when I got it home from dealer new
Check out the Enduro Engineering bash plate for this model.Fits in seconds,and protects that sump plug from damage
Excellent Swanky Cat video as always! Thanks. (Hope that cat caught in the ceiling is a SwankyCat.) ;-)
Which skid plate are you thinking about?
Do you have a video on checking and adjusting valve clearances for the Gen 3?
2008 with 25k for 3k or a new one for double the price?!?
The dog bones hang down way lower than the oil plug, you gonna cut those off or something?
funny how I know what to do, but still like to watch someone else do it first.
Great videos.
See the metal i. That filter. Klr engine and balancers have tons of chains and gears to shed metal
Hey buddy thanks for the video, I just got the 2022 adventure, I'm wondering what aftermarket slipon muffler are you using on your klr?
I've got the cheapest one available. I like it but actually wish it was louder. ua-cam.com/video/or1D3QF4ji8/v-deo.html
Great run down of the service interval. I think I should finally get around to picking up that low profile plug for the next oil change. Thanks for the link.
Thanks! Do you have the stock plate yet? I can't remember...
@@SwankyCatProductions the stock skid plate got busted up and I put the motech one on. It reaches the drain plug though.
What are your crash bars front and rear?
DirtRacks. Here's the final review I did on them before trying something else. ua-cam.com/video/7nOYwfjMHj8/v-deo.html
Who made your engine guards,? Or who do you recommend..I just bought that bike today...and you seem to know a bit,, so I'll be checking back..thanks..
They're DirtRacks, made up in Canada by hand actually. They've been sort of a sponsor of the channel since back when I had my gen2. I've got them on my Tenere as well. Never let me down and I would highly recommend them. Fairly priced and a lifetime warranty! ua-cam.com/video/cY9IbOIpVdI/v-deo.html
15:05 Exactly. Lots of stuff is because the tech who is looking at the bike has never ridden it (IE: your bike) so they need to check everything. If your throttle is sticky or brakes not working, etc, you'd know it.
Yep definitely and honestly being able to understand and adjust stuff like that is really important. I'll admit I had no idea what was going on with my throttle the first time it locked up but it would have made the rest of the ride a lot easier if I'd have known what to look for!
Proper torque spec is German Torque......goodntight 😂 I did not see what the oil change interval is after the 600 mile service. What is the interval?
Haha exactly! I want to say 1,200?
What is the screen on your handlebars? It is plugged into that usb port I assume?
Yep, it's a Garmin Nuvi GPS.
@@SwankyCatProductions Cool, thanks! Weatherproof?
@@donaldroe8355 nope, not at all haha. I only pay about $20 to $40 US for them used on eBay so I just bring a plastic bag along in my pack in case it rains. Haven't lost one yet!
Too slow man. I just turned 5300 miles on my '22😎
Haha yeah sadly I spend more time modding and editing these days than I actually do riding.
Any oil consumption?
@@rustyharvey4155 zero. Used mobil 1 4T after my break in period and at 5000 i switched to Amsoil. Got a coworker who deals the stuff and at $9/quart it was too sweet to pass up a case of it. I think the oil consumption is a non issue if you keep it below 70. Or in other words. Keep the revs low. I make it a point to do both
turn in untill it strips, the a quarter turn back
Also click through the gears to remove more oil.
Crash bars?
DirtRacks!
Wow, everything looks the same or near identical to my 2018 gen2. Glad that someone at Kawasaki decided that 'if it ain't broke-don't fix it'. Thanks for the doohickey adjustment heads up. I've hit 9k on mine and need to get a shop manual to really get a maintenance schedule up and going. I did want to ask if you ever had any issues with your gen2 doohickey that in an older video you said you'd leave it be and see what happens. I just can't believe that Kawasaki didn't address the supposed doohickey fatal weakness for 30+ years if it really was a problem. I am however wanting to add the thermo bob mod. Looks like you're running Continental tires because mine came with them from the PO. They're great and solid in the rain and gravel but I'm really wanting something less aggressive because I'm on pavement 90 percent of the time with a little gravel thrown in. Great video as usual.
Thanks! My Gen2 ran just fine with the stock doohickey until it was totaled in an accident at 24k. I think if you want one to last a really long time then the doohickey should get changed but otherwise... eh it'll prolly be ok lol. The thermobob makes a lot of sense to me, might not be worth the price even if you do end up having to refill the oil now and then but it's nice to have for all the slow moving off road riding I do.
I changed mine at around 400. Cut my oil filter media apart and rolled it flat for inspection under a bright light. Didn't find much for metal but I did find a bunch of paint(?) particles blue....white....pink...
I'm guessing it was from assembly markings. The good thing is the filter caught it all.
Keep up the great work on the videos.
Someone else mentioned paint marker from assembly, I think that's what it's got to be. Thanks!!!
Excellent video for the new KLR owner. I had the dealer do the 600 mile service but I plan on changing the oil next time myself. Thank you for posting. Great reference for future oil changes. Owners manual says 2.1 quarts of oil for the KLR but the forum (KLR) has a comcensus of 2.5 quarts. I think the 2.5 quarts might have been a value used on older KLRs but not sure. 🤷🏻♂️
Glad to hear that, thanks! Hmm, interesting. I never paid too close of attention to the exact amount I used on either of my KLRs. I usually would dump in about 2 and then go from there after checking intermediately.
@@SwankyCatProductions maybe fill to the top of the sight glass? Sounds like it would be ok.
@@Ghostrider-71 asi es
Just bought my 22 KLR Journey. Pick it up in a few days and I can’t wait 👌🏻
Congratulations! Enjoy!
Multiple filters is always a good thing. My DRZ filters get bad after one or two days of riding, so I have three filters and pack them as well as my filter cleaning supplies in my cargo trailer when I go camping.
Nice. Yeah certainly makes the process a lot faster and much less annoying.
Torquing down the oil cap screws you forgot to say "click"
Lmao I should have!
CHECK YOUR VALVE CLEARANCES !
The owner's manual of gen 3 recommend mineral oil like gen 2?
I think there were a few options, I don't recall if synthetic was an option or not but I stick with conventional because it can't slip past the rings as easy.
Dig the content. I think the grease on the gasket on the oil filter is to prevent pinching the gasket during install. I actually pinched my oil filter gasket because I only used motor oil instead of the grease like Kawi recommends. I then used grease and haven't had an issue yet.
I always used oil on my gen2 and never had issues but I suppose it only takes one time. I'll use grease from now on!
5000 views wow
Just had my 600m service done at the Kawasaki dealer. They reprogrammed the ECU while they were at it. Anyone ever heard of that?
Uuuh reprogrammed it for what???
@@SwankyCatProductions yeah, no one seems to know. Service manager explained that there is some sort of break-in software installed which needs to be cleared out at first service. Absolutely no one else I’ve talked to has ever heard of such a thing. The service bill reflects that a software change was made. I don’t seem to have been charged extra for it.
Hell if I know?
Charge you for it?
@@clroger4 it wasn’t itemized on the bill other than to reflect that they’d done it. No itemized charge.
Is it worth doing the thermalbob ? I plan on doing the doohicky way later I just bought the bike
"Worth it" money wise, no probably not. You'd need to burn a lot of oil to even out the cost of possibly avoiding it. But I do believe it's a helpful mod and will improve longterm longevity. Makes me feel better too haha.
I say it is junk. Do not add thermobob. Cylinders will always wear eccentrically in the direction of crankshaft rotation. Just perform recommended services as per the manual.
Thanks
1:14 Guessing they intended it to be on dirt and gravel roads vs the kinds of fun and harder trails we all want to do :)
Why not put in on the side like the Versys does?
My Enduro Engineering plate has a nice bulge to protect it which is nice but those low profile bolts look sweet :)
Yeah I'm sure your right, they have to know by now we don't use them as directed though haha.
My T7 has it right on the front which makes it really easy to get at... after you chip all the mud off that is lol.
I just wanted to warn you there have been reports of the Tusk low profile oil drain plugs cracking. If you have one already, they suggest not tightening it anymore than 14 to 16 foot pounds.
Love your breakdown man! How important is that filter oil?
Thanks! It's absolutely necessary. Foam filters won't really work without it.
I’ll grease my o ring next time.
Can't hurt right?
Don't forget to hit the plug with a metal hammer to shock the threads loose.
People strip threads all the time because thermal expansion locks the plugs to the threads.
Huh interesting I've never heard of that.
@@SwankyCatProductions KTM's manual specifies it on the RFS models and I have doing it on everything now. If something has an allen fitting then I just put the allen wrench in and hit it with a metal mallet.
thanks for the video
Glad it helped!
Question? Why do you use aftermarket filters? Sure they are OEM equivalent but who governs that or sets standards? I personally use OEM because if the filter fails I have Kawasaki to fall back on which is far more experienced and equipped to care for me if a failure occurs. Over the years as a motorcycle technician I’ve seen DIY customers suffer greatly at the hands of the aftermarket when it comes to paying for repairs related to product failure. Lastly did you really just tighten the balance chain adjuster bolt without a proper torque wrench? Viewers please don’t do that.
To each their own but I've never had an issue with uni filters. Never had one rip or separate and have yet to see any dirt on the leaving side of the foam. I'm confused what you mean about having Kawasaki to fall back on... are you referring to the 1 year warranty period? As for the torque wrench, your right that wasn't smart, should always be done with a torque wrench.
@@SwankyCatProductions To each there own is right. I think as a content provider it is important to not steer your viewers in the wrong direction especially if the bike may still be under warranty. Food for thought no?
Aftermarket filters are oem approved and warranty work can not be denied when using them.
@@chadgilbertson3071 That is what many believe. On occasion I’ve seen manufacturers exercise their right to refuse warranty due to modifications….filters being one of those modifications. Certainly doesn’t happen often but it does occur more than you might imagine.
@bluezhawg2104 false. They cant deny warranty due to using aftermarket filters. Thanks to the Magnuson-Moss Act. Maybe its people like you that spread false theories that makes people think they have to use oem parts.
Wow! I never adjusted the doohickey screw once on my Gen2.
I've heard sometimes you'll only get one adjustment out of it anyhow but it doesn't hurt to try lol.
Nothing to be proud of. That is what creates failures.
Great content. Safe travels man.
Thanks! You as well!
Regarding torque specs, the Kawasaki service manual has... questionable numbers for both the oil plug drain bolt and the idle shaft lever ("doohickey") bolt.
Service manual:
Oil Plug Drain: 21 ft-lbs
Idle Shaft Lever: 115 in-lbs
Most KLR owners go for around 15-17 ft-lbs & 69-78 in-lbs respectively.
Yeah that seems like overkill...
Good job Ben.
Thanks Ian!
Glad my bike has a spin on filter. My CRF had a filter setup similar to the KLR. Without the center thing.
Yeah those are definitely a lot quicker and less messy. The Tenere I like that too.