EP61 Charging Ports Goof ups! | What do I do if I lift a pad while soldering a charging port?
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- Опубліковано 7 сер 2024
- On this episode of the Art of Repair, Justin goes over basic jumpers in a lifted charging port pad type scenario, which is a common frustration/quitting point for new microsolderers.
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Wow! You "dummied" that down PERFECTLY! Love your style! You put me at ease with how to approach a potentially intimidating project! Thank you! 👍🏾
Im glad your not so worried now! I hope my other videos come across just as well for you =)
you definitely made it much simpler than most, without being repetetive or condescending. Subscribed.
Right on bro, im glad to have you around! I appriciate the comment and sub!
Brilliant, no nonsense, straightforward, very informative and best of all , no bull...you sir are a legend 👍
Love this and all your videos! keep doing what your doing. I have literally had a marathon day of your videos
Thank you for this comment! I love hearing these types of things, really makes me feel like im doing something to help =)
Thank you Justin, I needed just that. Congratulations, bravo!
I have to that on my wifes phone with 55 year old eyes and a magnifying glass. Wish me luck.
Great video, thanks for making subtitles available. Greetings from Brazil.
Feeling down so i watch Justin and i feel little better, almost like i have a friend.
A go to guy if im lost, never alone because J got my back.
this channel is so great. so informative.
Smart Magic of soldering iron bro
Keep up with repairs Happy weekend 🌞 and stay safe 🙏
Dude. Great video. You remind me of @Ryan Hall Y'all (UA-cam weatherman) a bit in the way you talk but mostly in the way you [and Ryan] explain a complex topic so easily that anybody could understand.
Happy i found you.
Im homeless and trying to learn this so i might turn my luck round and feel some pride for once.
Really cool upload.
Right now im setting up a spot where i can practise soldering and diagnostics.
hope you'll doin allrite sir.
@@chafacorpTV
Thank you sir.
After watching your video, I feel more confident in doing that repair. I have a micro USB port where I tore off the three middle pin pads. I thought maybe the tablet would still charge with just the two outer pins but it didn't work. Now its time to try and jump those three middle pins.
Same.
you won’t be able to do it. you need a microscope, very fine solder and pencil soldering iron. You just can’t go with Walmart and buy the stuff to do it. It’s not that simple junior 🤨
Thanks mate. Really helpful. Greetings from the uk.🇬🇧
Damn! Awesome upload! 😁 New fan
Great vids - thanks. Any other fix beside a jumper? Can't seem to find a trace close.
Great video as always, thanks
wow you are so much expert in soldering .... U r doing it like its nothing .... thank u a lot for this video ... it is saving me at my job.... because I am the beginner and I destroyed one pad ... thanks
Hopefully you will also be doing this work like its nothing! Keep at it!
halo from Indonesia here :)
nice video
that microscope so great :)
the camera too :)
TEST POINT. So that's what I lifted on my ps1. Bless your little heart.
=D Thanks for the comment. Im glad you learned something =)
That was a great video Justin! In the video you mentioned that some boards have seen internal layout. Is it possible to get the layout for an iPad pro 10.5? If so where can I find it. Thanks
loved your demonstration made it look simple.
Thank you! Im glad the video helped you =) I also appreciate the time you took to make a comment. =) Feel free to stop by anytime!
love and respect from Pakistan mate your way of teaching is very easy to understand pls keep it simple and easy as you always do the only reason i subscribed your channel because your videos aint unnecessarily lengthy as others do so pls keep it up good work :-)
I appreciate you leaving a comment, I hope to see more in the future =D Im glad that your learning =)
Would have been nice if you did all the leads on the Plug, so as to show us some of them looked like the same traces. Gave ya a like.
Excellent
Very informative
Very good 👍
I like to hold the jumper in place with a metal spider after the first connection. It acts like a heat sink and makes it more difficult to accidentally reflow the first connection while making the second connection.
hi justin liked the video clear how to repair .what temp is soldering iron on repair thanks john
Awesome video dude! Broke it down so well. I wish I seen this video sooner 😅 I done this (lifted a few pads) on my first attempt at replacing a charging port or a huawei tablet for a friend. I attempted to make jumpers but didn't quite get the hang of it and ended up paying for it to be repaired 😅
ahhH! i got a jumper video commmmmin up real soon broski. hold on tight! back in a few weeks, working on my new website =) Thank you so much for your comment and being part of the community!
does that small wire hold much power like on the new 60w+ chargers?
Nice 👍 thanks
Also what type of test leads are you using?
Thanks for sharing. What microscope are you using?
Cheers
ua-cam.com/users/redirect?redir_token=U_ACfVyW50480esUKVS8K74egrN8MTU2MTAzODE4NUAxNTYwOTUxNzg1&event=video_description&v=lhFkc6ZKrAQ&q=http%3A%2F%2Famzn.to%2F2eKEz4t
Sorry for the long message. What about boards that don’t have any visible passage ways? Like you mentioned. I’m working on a friends Bluetooth speaker. The port fell off and then I lost it so I got another one of my old blue tooth earphones and tried it out without soldering and the light to show it was charging came on. So I soldered down the base of the port onto the board and now if I press the pins down onto the pads it’s not showing the light anymore. I don’t have magnifying glasses or microscope etc. luckily I at least have 20/20 vision lol. I don’t see anything wrong except the pins are a little off but they seem to still just be touching a bit. Was thinking about unsoldering and trying to press the pins down to see if it still works or if I broke something
I like how you explained the issue and go about fixing it, especially your enthusiasm about the detail work. Have you considered to become an instructor? You would make a great teacher to pass on your skill.
Thats what im doing now =D, but no I know what you mean. Iv got dreams of opening the Art of Repairs, School of Repair for sure. But balancing multiple shops and the channel can be alot of work sometimes. Hopefully one day Ill get to a place where I can make it work =D I appropriate your view and comment! Hope to see ya in the comments section again at some point =D
Wow nice idea . But not what i trying to learn . i was trying to fix the pad in chipset or CPU/GPU xbox360 . got mess with it while doing reballing . Got any idea how to fix it the pad ?
what is the copper jumper wire called? i tried buying some but it has coating on it and solder wont stick to it.
Justin.. what can i do to find jumper solutions if i don't get visual track? Thanks in advanve
i have the same problem. I have a phone with charging port usb type C where from 24 there are 20 broken pads haha, no idea where to jump each one, i guess there you need a working phone to test continuity or schematics/ diagrams
I feel confident after this
It makes me so happy to hear this. Hope to hear from you again with more confidence!:)
Hi, I was just wondering if you could use a wick wire for jumper
Yes
Thanks Justin! I may resort to some solderable magnet wire. I have many different sizes down to 44 gauge. But first I am going to try and replace them with copper foil/epoxy and try to make them look like they were never pulled in the first place.
Have you tried straight up enameled jumper wire and UV coating?
No. Magnet wire is enameled wire.
Untwisting a braided wire to use as a jumper is brilliant - that will come in handy because I can’t find jumper wire anyplace.
Nice
Nice tip! My 2 year old pulled the usb wire on one of my electronics and broke the usb port off. Yup looks like Godzilla got it, exactly like your board. I'll let you know if your method works but thanks for the tips!
I just wanted to say that I enjoyed your video an I'm glad I found it. I tried to put a analog stick on a Xbox one controller and think I have messed up the board up. I have pictures if you could take a look and any help would be appreciated thank you. I subscribe to your channel and I'm going to keep watching and learn how to do this.
Been there done that on my Galaxy S8. If only if I was a bit more patient!
i from india ..love from india
Hi Justin, thank you for your video, I am in the middle of a puffco peak charge port repair and only have 1 of the 6 pads. Since your in China, do you have any access to a replacement board that I could just swap the battery over to ?
Dylan Westfall back in the states now because of the pandemic , unfortunately thought it’s not economically feasible to search for one part like that. I can help you source anything you want.. but one item.. could cost you more than the device if shipped alone. Most cheap things are brought over in pallets and broken down in the country they go to and shipped locally
Do you have a repair shop in the U.S ? I could email some pictures of what it's like or needs for an estimate
Dylan Westfall you can email me at justin@artof.repair but I may or may not do it. I basically pick and choose my work at this point. So no guarantees on anything but feel free to email.
I wonder if a silver conductive pen would d fix those pads ? I was thinking of buying one of those,
Silver conductive pen would not be within spec to fix issues like this. Best to run a jumper =)
Nice video justin... very useful.. n where are my tweezers still not available in Australia 😃
Working hard on it brother, theres alot of mess in doing business in other countries =( But rest assured, they will be available everywhere, hopefully soon!
TheArtofRepair ill distribution in Australia/ asia ...
You reckon that tiny jumper's gauge is thick enough to provide the current necessary? Since you shorted what had a massive plane connection, I'd have used a thicker jumper.
Yes, you shall use this thin wire at least double. Understand, you watch a video from an interested amateur.
Also nice micro vice would be good for holding boards..
I use a small piece of silicone pad and a jewelers anvil which is in my description if you want to try to find it local. Great secondary board cooling heat sink as well along with no crazy height issues for the scope since its sitting on top.
hey what is this microscope?
Now you just gotta do that 10 more times for all the other pins with pulled pads :-D
hahahah i know right, tbh if i did that in this video, people would hate me haha, such a boring video to see the same thing that many times.
You just saved me from buying a new $80 esc, cheers.
Right on! Im glad i saved you done monies =)))
Ok what if the pads are still there on the board but only lifted? What can be use to hold the pad down to the actual board??
At this point, its best to go ahead and run a jumper, once the integrity has been compromised its not going back in. Iv looked for the adhesive used to hole down the pads, but cant seem to find it in a "personal" quantity. =( on that same note, once the pad has moved, the integrity of the pad itself in terms the trace itself are not as strong as it should be and can fail even if glued back down, still best to run jumpers =) I appreciate your comment! Thanks for the view =D
@@TheArtofRepair not to mention that copper pads can lift due to a variety of reasons, one of those being corrosion from water or electrolyte damage. If you have corrosion eating away under a pad then epoxying it back down will be a very temporary fix. I would rather cut out the damaged pads/traces if feasible just to follow the corrosion and make sure I'm not missing any other issues on that circuit that haven't cropped up yet.
Uuu... nasty socket :) I like your basics videos.
Sup foo. Just subscribed, ése.
Thats what im talking bout!
Hello, great job.
Could you turn up the volume a little please, thanks.
Is it a lot easier to see the micro USB port with a actual microscope vs a magnification lamp?
This is how it looks if you install a small magnifying glass to a phone camera.
12MP
i.ibb.co/k3js0d7/dav.jpg
i.ibb.co/P6VbJh0/dav.jpg
not able to show the finish results??
Do not underestimate what he's saying about very small thermal mass. If you keep the iron on it for too long, the solder on the other side of the jumper wire will melt too. I would suggest experimenting with this on the first jumper wire, in stead of finding out the limits the hard way later, if and when you have many jumper wires closely together.
Can you please make a video on how to lift a chip that just does not want to lift. Even after giving it a lot of heat.
underfill or no underfill?
For those who are still interested: Sometimes you find a component which is welded onto the copper structures of the board. Not to damage even more, you can make a "cold removal" of the component. With a little milling machine.
This is not criticism! I am only trying to learn from you:-)
Why did you choose to make jumpers instead of new copper pads?
Oh and by the way, please tell me the name of the probes with bend tips you are using:-)
Creating new pads take way longer and the density of the jumpers more than makes up for any disparity in the mass of creating a new pad. New pad repair is alot less time consuming in more macro sized circuits IMO. I can run a jumper in seconds that will function the same forever that a new pad would be that would take me potentially 20-30 minutes, especially at that point if im making new pads, then im def taking my time to make them proper. Its a fusion of efficiently and effectiveness, especially when you have 100 more boards in queue to work on. I appreciate the question! feel free to comment anytime! =D
Thanks a lot, it did teach me a lot!:-)
I have looked at your great list in the description, but it seem that your bend probes are not listed, or am I wrong?
The probes are part of his volt meter
@@newguy8830 Okay thank you for helping!! Do you know if it's possible to get separate probes like that, haven't found anywhere I have looked? :-)
Try searching micro or phone repair voltmeter probes
And a chemical solution for removing underfill wouldd be good ..
Chemicals for under fill removal do exist, but are beyond nasty and toxic. Unless I find something safe, I wouldn't recommend it.
Why don't Americas like the l in solder?
I already know this stuff...but you are a great teacher :)
Thank you very much for the kind words! I appreciate the positive comment =)
Bought a switch with the charge pads ripped off, I don't see traces going from each individual pin, it looks like the trace engulfs all the pins, so I think I'm screwed with fixing it. Oh well, still can sell the parts and make my money back, unless someone knows of a way to fix it, message me. I got pics of the board and condition. Thanks in advance, and thanks for the video!
I've fixed one with the same problem for a co-worker. Not to hard to fix. He tore of 7 pads and traces.
As long as you can find the next pad in line with the circuit, it can be jumped and fixed. Sometimes pads move down into the board and the vias as not accessible, so knowing the next itemin line is important.
Your scratching should be in the right way, and when you started doing it you basically did it wrong cause if you would miss a little then you could fk up the whole connection there :) .
My cases are like the worst case scenario. In fact that may have been my board
Ridiculously helpful video! Thanks so much. I didn't have a trace to follow but scraped down to the bare copper and am now getting continuity to one of the nearby SMD caps.
The pad for the second pin looks to be in perfect shape, but I'm not getting continuity to anything from it. Is it normal to have some pads like this? It's the 2nd one in. It looks in really good shape with a nice layer of fresh solder sticking nicely to it.
Edit: looking at a pinout image for micro USB, it looks like this might be for the "USB OTG ID" so maybe that's an optional thing
Lifted one of the pads carrying CLK to a DDR RAM module connector that I changed! Currently the airborne trace is soldered in place to the pin! If this works, I'll give it a dab of epoxy for the next repair guy to laugh at!
ibb.co/s5GpX4Q can you help me with this I accidentally scrape of my Data- wire off board and it was connected like this ibb.co/JyH4qmD before but as you can see in first picture i completely ruined the thing and I don't know where it connects to, mouse is Logitech G100s
Man, you're the best !
I knew this could be done, but i didn't knew were to connect the jumper wires.
I might save a phone with a peeled charging pad.
This is the damaged zone.
i.ibb.co/k3js0d7/dav.jpg
i.ibb.co/P6VbJh0/dav.jpg
I just wanna make it charge the battery.
You think those big dots VBUS and GND could be used to connect pin 1 (VCC5V) and 5 (GND) from the port, just to activate the charging function?
This would be nice because i can see the dots, and i could work with them.
I don't have tools and microscope to work on smaller areas.
I don't wanna weld pins 2,3,4. I don't care about data transfer.
But someone said the battery would not charge if i don't connect pins 2,3,4, because the motherboard read battery status, temperature, etc, via 2,3,4 pins..
Phone is a Huawei LDN L21
What is the parameters to measure continuity ?
I have a friend that has a measuring device. But he's not into phones.
Thank you, man !
Personally, at that point, i think it might be safer to just use one of those micro charging circuit controller add on boards and just solder the points to that and just lock down a new port and run jumpers to it. Theres just alot of damage there. I do have a video on continuity mode as well you can watch, but you can also just select the waveform symbol on your multimeter and just wait for the beep. The beep is usually based on a diode or resistance measurement under a threshold value that could be considered continuity.
@TheArtofRepair
Thanks for your reply, man!
This is the motherboard.
It forms one piece with the bottom part. Old design.
I've never heard of that micro charging circuit to add on the motherboard.
Thanks for mentioning.
ae01.alicdn.com/kf/H5634ab8ac43a45388e0aa9fd6da351f7P/Ymitn-Electronic-panel-mainboard-Motherboard-unlocked-with-chips-Circuits-flex-Cable-For-Huawei-Y7-prime-2018.jpg
@@dan_6915 i would just jump over to ali express, i haven't looked for or used one in years, but i know they exist and im sure plenty of ppl have stock. Iv heard of them being used in lots of cases where the charging circuit repair is impossible or prohibitively expensive.
Fck yes.
Do not do this if you want a proper and quality repair. The repair shown will fall within a few months. Remove the component, and repair the land and trace. Then reinforce the repair with epoxy, since this is a power jack that will see allot of use. Very minor repair. Basics are there. You need to always keep in mind end of use. I do this in a manufacturing company. I've had to fix boards that the circuit board caught on fire. Look up IPC-7711/7721 for proper repair.
Totally agree. This is not "The Art of repair", it's just bodge it together quick and forget it.
This is not a repair made to last, and comply with the original quality of the unit.
I couldn't say it better. I would be embarrassed if I did this repair. I have used wick to repair a very high voltage / current trace. But that was due to not having trace material that could handle amps thru circuit used.
He did say in the video that this isnt the proper way of doing things and this is just for demostration and from what i understand the way of thinking
@@nontasanastasios7612 either way if you put it out to the internet, people will take it as proper instruction. I'm a CIT for IPC-A-610 and WHMA-620. I've been doing board repair since 95'. I'd never show someone this as a repair.
I am familiar with IPC 7711c/7721c including procedure 6.1 which clearly demonstrates an IDENTICAL method as to this video, which also mentioned that there is no level of conformance in this type of procedure.
I think the only thing that could have really been added to the video would be to mention something about epoxy but it's not 100% needed unless its application specific, a little slack will cure any type of stress as long as your anchors are fine and you using an insulated jumper wire.
I do think your overexaggerating yourself a bit and are not really appreciating the repair circumstance, as I chose to show a worst case scenario type of damage. I think you're focusing too much on my example looking worse than an actual job than me doing the job right or wrong.
The video itself clearly demonstrates the thought process and idea of jumping a small trace in a small low voltage, low amperage environment. I would love for you to describe your method for full trace repair in this situation bearing in mind the scale of this type of job being in the sub millimetre, as far as I know, micro jumpers are industry standard at this point and unlike larger macro traces, they do not actually sell trace repair kits anymore.. they sell jumper wire...
While I hope this comment does not come off in a negative tone, I def do think that you kind of came out of pocket without actually assessing the situation as a whole, including the needs of the repair and the proper procedure as dictated by the document you put down as proof of your claim
With all that being said, I do hope to see you in the comments in the future and am happy to have a conversation with you anytime about my methods and techniques =)
email pls
I really appreciate the educational value here but Jesus, I don't know if I can handle this guy's patronizing tone.
It's no fun fixing stuff like this for customers that think they know how to solder. Used to work in a repair shop.
I feel the same
He's just explaining things.
informative, yes, but dude too much nonsense in between relevancy. I would suggest watching in mute, it's actually more understandable. Just an opinion.
The dude really f the hell out of that pad