What a pleasure to see this done without having access to US$50,000 worth of machinery and tooling !! You have been a real inspiration to me - thank you !!!
I think I've watched this video 5 times by now. It does really well to explain the process instead of just providing entertaining content to watch. Hope your back is doing well and that you're able to continue this mini-series in the near future!
I am 100 percent sure that the dowel pins are to precisely locate the engine to the transmission, after that once the bolts are torqued properly you could throw the dowel pins away , they do not carry any load .
And you would be 100% incorrect, the dowels are there to precisely centre the gearbox on the engine the attaching bolts are a sloppy fit, and in 54 years of being a trained mechanic with a lot of motor sport work I can tell you for sure that if you leave the dowel pins out you can look forward to a shuddering clutch, and eventually the gearbox jumping out of gear, my advice is to watch this video several times BECAUSE THIS GUY DOES IT 100% CORRECT OUTSIDE A CNC MILL!!!!!!!
Awesome video! I don’t know the difference in hardness of aluminum grades, but I have used a woodworking router to enlarge aluminum wheels to fit over larger hubs. It cut easily and left a very clean edge. With some experimenting this may be a faster and cleaner method than a jigsaw? (UA-cam hack on the wheels worked great!). This is making me want to fab my own for a TDI swap. Thank you again for sharing and the effort put into filming and editing is great!
Thank you Brandon for your kind words. I will definitely look into the router. I think a jigsaw is a little more common in the bottom of peoples tool chests but I am keen to try out the router to see if its an easier process!
MODIFY UP you would likely have to work through it in steps, taking small bites but it would be more perpendicular as well as the jigsaw blades deflect. At least mine do once I beat them up a bit.
cheers for the video. But how do you go about making the collar for the input shaft? With my engine swap (Vit-5 gearbox to k24a3) I'm suffering the following issues, needing stubby transfer punches for the engine side dowels (which don't go through the block, k24a3), and not having the collar to hold the input shaft steady
what a great content man! I've been searching for a well explained video in making gearbox adapter plate for a long time. can't wait to see the next step. clutch and flywheel right ? i hope you can explained how to determine the adapter plate thickness to space the input shaft to the pilot bearing correctly, or cut the input shaft in the next video. cheers
One question is how do you figure out what thickness the adapter plate needs to be? Will the transmission shaft long enough to reach the clutch plate with the adapter in the middle? Thanks
Using a measuring tool as a marking tool is NOT how we engineers work. Using a proper centerpunch is the way to go. Kids don't do at home what you watched in min. 4:42. Other than that, thanks for uploading this. I'm in the middle of the evaluation of this process to see what I can accomplish with my rig.
Hey Seb, Do you have a video or info on how you set the flywheel height? I see it as probably the most important part of adapting a gearbox to get the clutch setup correct.
Did I miss something-don't you have to put a shim behind the flywheel, since now the input shaft will not go as far into the clutch disc. In other words, the input shaft will be the same thickness as the adapter plate AWAY from inserting fully into the clutch itself?
Good work dude! Looks awesome! I bought a "professionally made" adaptor recently for the swap I'm doing and.... Pure Hot Garbage!! I'll be investing some time in creating one from scratch. Cheers for the tips/advice! Keep up the awesome work!!
@@MODIFYUP - I'm working on an early model BMW e21 and throwing a 2.4l Honda engine into it. Coupled with a full rear end rebuild from a different car (takes a bigger, stronger diff than standard), coilovers, ecu and dash etc, should be a pretty interesting car by the end of the build.
@@canned__meat ah yes the old rwd k24 conversion. k miata have dominated the market with zf 5 speed conversion plate. great to see you thinking outside the box and making your own. what transmission do you plan on running?
@@MODIFYUP - I'll be using the ZF 6 speed in mine actually. The company I bought my gear from actually poorly copied the kmiata gear 😞😞😞 I didn't know it was a copy until I received it. It was advertised as being their (kmiata) adaptor plate when I paid. Very very disappointed and deeply regret going with the company I did. Live and learn, right?
im just going to say, I have an SW20 MR2 with a 2AZ in it, if you use a transmission that works for the 3SGE it would have probably gone together much easier, with stock off the shelf clutch setups working
The only rwd transmission for 3sge is the j160 which is essentially the same az6 based transmission as the tl70 but without the reverse mount starter. The 3y bellhousing fits but puts the engine on a ridiculous angle to get the shifter in the right spot. This is the best option.to get the engine angle and transmission angle correct. There is no oe shortcut for this. Thanks for watching
Thank you for posting. My project is pretty straight forward ford to ford. Or rather to M5OD-R2 to flathead. I feel better about my ability now. Subscribing
Excellent video! Ps over here in the UK you can get almost any pitch and thread size countersunk set screws, just got to go to a proper hardware supplier.
You can't get m12x1.25 countersunk bolts in the UK. The only place I've found them is in the USA, and even then they are only available in titanium. If I'm wrong then please do tell me where I can get them as I need them for a Porsche project.
@@MODIFYUP you seem apt enough... do you think you could make a dry sump tutorial for this motor?? I'd be super interested as that's what I think I will be doing
You can go flush mount with all those bolts. They aren't seeing much force. I'd assume that the engine is only capable of a few hundred foot lbs of force.
this a really great video. Just one question. How do u know how thick the plate needs to be. I mean. That you dont get in troubel with the clutch mechanisem?
All depends on what flywheel and clutch setup you run. In my case i can use a 2az flywheel with a fa20 ring gear or a fa20 flywheel with enlarged holes. Both flywheels have different heights. In 1 case the flywheel will need to be spaced out and the other case the input shaft needs to be machined down. Stay tuned it will all be explained in another video!
The length of the input shaft relative to the thickness of the adapter plate confuses me. I’m a total adapter plate noob so... I’m assuming the plate can’t be so thick as to pull the trans so far away from the block that the shaft of the trans doesn’t mate with the pilot bearing in the end of the engine crankshaft.
this is entirely dependant on the motor gearbox combo you are making the plate for. some engines have the spigot/pilot in the crank and some are in the flywheel. in the case of the 2az the spigot is in the flywheel so any distance the flywheel is spaced from the crank the spigot bearing will also be spaced the same amount. in the case of say a nissan motor the spigot bush is in the crankshaft so you can either install a new spigot bush to a higher depth to maintain contact or make a custom spigot bush that protrudes from the crank face to take up the amount you space the gearbox out. hope this helps
This well produced video shows how to cut out an adapter, but the calculations that obviously was done during the making of the wooden template are left out. As an exaple, how the allignment of the gearbox is calculated very easily based on the center between the dowl pins is just not going to work out in most cofigurations, and I'm even doubtful as to how it worked in this setup. The more common, and sadly more difficult way, is to machine something that locks the crankshaft and innput shaft of the box in center line, and then build off of that. You also need to take in to consideration how/if the input shaft needs to be supported by a roller bearing in the crank, and if so, will it reach with this adaptor in place, or do you need to machine someting to make that work. On top of that there's the height of the whole flywheel and clutch assembly that needs to be correct. Uncorrect alignment will kill the bearings, and only work in a track/drift car where both engine and box is rebuildt/thrown away once a year/season and the noise level is so high you can't hear the bearings grind. This video makes it look easy because most of the hard work and calculations are left out.
Hey I have a rx8 I just bought a few days ago I’m putting a b series Honda engine in it. The block is a b20 with a b18 gsr head. I’m willing to pay you to make the adapter plate for my engine to fit on the rear wheel drive rx8 gearbox.
@@MODIFYUP thanks, yeah the az6 is in around 6 vehicles of different brands. I'm contemplating my engine conversion and something different in an IS200/300/altezza chassis. Been looking into the 2azfe+t engines and obviously want to use the j160 because I think the gearbox is great.
This is, hands down, the best video I've seen that describes how to make your own adapter.
Thank you much appreciated! once the world gets back to normal expect some new content coming in!
What a pleasure to see this done without having access to US$50,000 worth of machinery and tooling !! You have been a real inspiration to me - thank you !!!
thank you!
My spine could not stop shivering watching you carve lines with your calipers
I think I've watched this video 5 times by now. It does really well to explain the process instead of just providing entertaining content to watch. Hope your back is doing well and that you're able to continue this mini-series in the near future!
thank you for the kind words Jarrett. updates are coming so stay tuned and thanks for the support!
so far so good, finaly a video with someone explaining how to make an adaptor
thank youu very much
freeting from tunisia
Theres other vids out there - but YOU are a great teacher - a natural at explaining thoroughly.
Great job doing this with the simplest methods and garage available tooling
This makes me happy seeing toyota straight 4 getting some love being the other-guys in the shadow of Hondas B and K series engines
Using the lift arm as an engine horse. Perfect use of equipment.
Really impressive video. You squeeze a ton of information in without it getting confusing. This deserves a lot more views!
Thank you!
I am 100 percent sure that the dowel pins are to precisely locate the engine to the transmission, after that once the bolts are torqued properly you could throw the dowel pins away , they do not carry any load .
And you would be 100% incorrect, the dowels are there to precisely centre the gearbox on the engine the attaching bolts are a sloppy fit, and in 54 years of being a trained mechanic with a lot of motor sport work I can tell you for sure that if you leave the dowel pins out you can look forward to a shuddering clutch, and eventually the gearbox jumping out of gear, my advice is to watch this video several times BECAUSE THIS GUY DOES IT 100% CORRECT OUTSIDE A CNC MILL!!!!!!!
Bro you deserve so much more subscribers! This is a gold mine of content! Looking forward to more!
Thank you!
Really looking out for the next vid.. so much detailed info about these adapters .. gosh
Thank you!
Thanks from Brazil!
This vídeo helps me how to plan an adapter to fit a Duratec 2.0l engine in my small Ford Ka’s bay.
Thanks again!
Righto, time to go mount my V8 to my RX8 box 👍 i did think this was the best way to do it and youve confirmed my suspicions, legend!
This guy is a Hero
Just the video I was looking for. I am putting a 240SX gearbox into my 65 MGB.
Bro that's a killer video and we still waiting on the follow up video about clutch distance and fork and such keep the good work 👍👍👍
Awesome video! I don’t know the difference in hardness of aluminum grades, but I have used a woodworking router to enlarge aluminum wheels to fit over larger hubs. It cut easily and left a very clean edge. With some experimenting this may be a faster and cleaner method than a jigsaw? (UA-cam hack on the wheels worked great!). This is making me want to fab my own for a TDI swap. Thank you again for sharing and the effort put into filming and editing is great!
Thank you Brandon for your kind words. I will definitely look into the router. I think a jigsaw is a little more common in the bottom of peoples tool chests but I am keen to try out the router to see if its an easier process!
MODIFY UP you would likely have to work through it in steps, taking small bites but it would be more perpendicular as well as the jigsaw blades deflect. At least mine do once I beat them up a bit.
One of the best step by step on this tedious process. Any idea if the 1AR block can use the 2AZ head? 2.7L AZ would be the cream
cheers for the video.
But how do you go about making the collar for the input shaft?
With my engine swap (Vit-5 gearbox to k24a3) I'm suffering the following issues, needing stubby transfer punches for the engine side dowels (which don't go through the block, k24a3), and not having the collar to hold the input shaft steady
Subscribed! Bro, your way of explaining things is superb. You make me feel like I can do it lol please do a follow up video on clutch/custom flywheel.
Thanks for watching!
what a great content man! I've been searching for a well explained video in making gearbox adapter plate for a long time. can't wait to see the next step. clutch and flywheel right ? i hope you can explained how to determine the adapter plate thickness to space the input shaft to the pilot bearing correctly, or cut the input shaft in the next video. cheers
Thanks for your kind words, I have a few videos in the works showing exactly these measurements so stay tuned and all will be revealed!
@@MODIFYUP you're welcome. cheers
This is amazing video! I want to use this video as guide for my own project. I'm trying to Swap a 1.8 Miata Engine into a Suzuki Samurai.
Thanks for watching! Good luck on your engine swap!
Underrated Channel and content.
thank you john
Your videos deserve more man
thanks for watching
One question is how do you figure out what thickness the adapter plate needs to be? Will the transmission shaft long enough to reach the clutch plate with the adapter in the middle? Thanks
Maybe he compensates the gap (between crank and flywheel) with a custom adapter plate?
Do a video on what are all the options as to manage the spacing/offset of flywheel when adapter plate is done! :)
can you please do one about the flywheel and offset? amazing video
Don't worry its coming!
@@MODIFYUP I’d really like to see that too
David wants to see it and so do i!
I feel like we cheated using a complete transaxle from an Audi platform by comparison. Looking good, nicely done!
Haha thats not cheating that's an awesome outcome!
Iam well impressed and totally hooked on your videos wow show me more son. 👍👍👌
Using a measuring tool as a marking tool is NOT how we engineers work. Using a proper centerpunch is the way to go. Kids don't do at home what you watched in min. 4:42. Other than that, thanks for uploading this. I'm in the middle of the evaluation of this process to see what I can accomplish with my rig.
This is great and will probably try it for my build thank you very much
man, this is, like pure gold
When and where do you talk about flywheel spacer or adapter. Or how you determined the thickness of the plate ? Questions
Clutch and flywheel? Great vid
Hey Seb, Do you have a video or info on how you set the flywheel height? I see it as probably the most important part of adapting a gearbox to get the clutch setup correct.
Made a great job of it
Did I miss something-don't you have to put a shim behind the flywheel, since now the input shaft will not go as far into the clutch disc. In other words, the input shaft will be the same thickness as the adapter plate AWAY from inserting fully into the clutch itself?
this is gold, thank you for making this!
Good work dude! Looks awesome! I bought a "professionally made" adaptor recently for the swap I'm doing and.... Pure Hot Garbage!!
I'll be investing some time in creating one from scratch.
Cheers for the tips/advice!
Keep up the awesome work!!
Thanks for watching Ian. Tell me more about your swap!
@@MODIFYUP - I'm working on an early model BMW e21 and throwing a 2.4l Honda engine into it. Coupled with a full rear end rebuild from a different car (takes a bigger, stronger diff than standard), coilovers, ecu and dash etc, should be a pretty interesting car by the end of the build.
@@canned__meat ah yes the old rwd k24 conversion. k miata have dominated the market with zf 5 speed conversion plate. great to see you thinking outside the box and making your own. what transmission do you plan on running?
@@MODIFYUP - I'll be using the ZF 6 speed in mine actually. The company I bought my gear from actually poorly copied the kmiata gear 😞😞😞 I didn't know it was a copy until I received it. It was advertised as being their (kmiata) adaptor plate when I paid.
Very very disappointed and deeply regret going with the company I did.
Live and learn, right?
Great job lad
How about the flywheel and the clutch? Does it needs spacer? As the gearbox move further behind
Very COoL. Good job
im just going to say, I have an SW20 MR2 with a 2AZ in it, if you use a transmission that works for the 3SGE it would have probably gone together much easier, with stock off the shelf clutch setups working
The only rwd transmission for 3sge is the j160 which is essentially the same az6 based transmission as the tl70 but without the reverse mount starter. The 3y bellhousing fits but puts the engine on a ridiculous angle to get the shifter in the right spot. This is the best option.to get the engine angle and transmission angle correct. There is no oe shortcut for this. Thanks for watching
Thank you for posting. My project is pretty straight forward ford to ford. Or rather to M5OD-R2 to flathead. I feel better about my ability now. Subscribing
Good luck with your build. thanks for watching!
With the added length between the box and block- how does the input shaft reach the pilot bearing?
Nice one brother!
How to you account for the thickness of the adapter plate when trying to get the mechanicals to work?
The part about centerline of engine and transmission i need to watch a few times to let the info sink in
Excellent video! Ps over here in the UK you can get almost any pitch and thread size countersunk set screws, just got to go to a proper hardware supplier.
You can't get m12x1.25 countersunk bolts in the UK. The only place I've found them is in the USA, and even then they are only available in titanium. If I'm wrong then please do tell me where I can get them as I need them for a Porsche project.
G'day. Where did you source your allie plate. Up hear in Brissy you have to buy a whole sheet.
Your content is so quality man! Do you have merch or something I can support you with?
Thank you for the kind words! Its guys like you that keep me making this stuff. Stay tuned merch is on the way!
@@MODIFYUP you seem apt enough... do you think you could make a dry sump tutorial for this motor?? I'd be super interested as that's what I think I will be doing
@@benandjakehuston6321 sit tight i'm actually in planning with this very topic. Its not a cheap adventure though!
I could not find it but did you ever make a video on making the spacer for the fly wheel or how you adapted the clutch/flywheel to that crankshaft
Hello,
I have a 1987 Mazda Rx7 gxl; I would like to convert it in a V8. Can I make the conversion without changing the rear end?
You can go flush mount with all those bolts. They aren't seeing much force. I'd assume that the engine is only capable of a few hundred foot lbs of force.
Hello boss,I have a Chrysler voyager and I want to convert with a Toyota camry 2.2 engine, its con work?
poster in the back at 5:50 is from funkygarage
What do you do now that input shaft is 16m further away from input bearing due to plate thickness?
This is really great content. Thanks!
thank you John
this a really great video. Just one question. How do u know how thick the plate needs to be. I mean. That you dont get in troubel with the clutch mechanisem?
Hi Normylife dont worry all will be revealed shortly!
Great job,
What about transverse engines? Is it doable ???
Hey, would you know how long the TL70 input shaft is?
Nice what bolts are you using to mount to the engine?
Great video!
Thanks man that very helpful, and again thank
Thanks for watching!
just have a similar process going on but i only have 1azfe and hilux g series gearbox
want to know how to find the flywheel offset and adapteur plate height needed!!
You just became my FUCKING hero!!!
Funky Garage poster 😍
shout out cy lang haha
what'd you use to make that collar to keep the input shaft centered? great video dude!
How do you determine the thickness of the plate needed?
What about input shaft depth? I reckon the input shaft stands out proud so the thickness of the adapter takes up the space basically?
All depends on what flywheel and clutch setup you run. In my case i can use a 2az flywheel with a fa20 ring gear or a fa20 flywheel with enlarged holes. Both flywheels have different heights. In 1 case the flywheel will need to be spaced out and the other case the input shaft needs to be machined down. Stay tuned it will all be explained in another video!
Amazing vid
Great video
Can you make a plate adapting a tremc t5 to a toyota 3tc engine block?
hai bro why u are using alluminium sheet for adapter plate please inform me thank u
Does adding the spacer create an issue meaning the transmission? Do you have to make other changes with the added space?
Between the engine and Transmission
cool man
The length of the input shaft relative to the thickness of the adapter plate confuses me. I’m a total adapter plate noob so...
I’m assuming the plate can’t be so thick as to pull the trans so far away from the block that the shaft of the trans doesn’t mate with the pilot bearing in the end of the engine crankshaft.
this is entirely dependant on the motor gearbox combo you are making the plate for. some engines have the spigot/pilot in the crank and some are in the flywheel. in the case of the 2az the spigot is in the flywheel so any distance the flywheel is spaced from the crank the spigot bearing will also be spaced the same amount. in the case of say a nissan motor the spigot bush is in the crankshaft so you can either install a new spigot bush to a higher depth to maintain contact or make a custom spigot bush that protrudes from the crank face to take up the amount you space the gearbox out. hope this helps
I was thinking to start with a piece of 3/16 or 8 mil plexiglass instead of wood.
clean shop
I’m putting my Tl70 to a Toyota 2AR I’m worried about starter fitment
Sick bleach posters on the wall
Thanks for watching!
@@MODIFYUP when you thinking of doing the part 2 of this bro?
Where can I get a sheet of that aluminum to buy?
This well produced video shows how to cut out an adapter, but the calculations that obviously was done during the making of the wooden template are left out. As an exaple, how the allignment of the gearbox is calculated very easily based on the center between the dowl pins is just not going to work out in most cofigurations, and I'm even doubtful as to how it worked in this setup. The more common, and sadly more difficult way, is to machine something that locks the crankshaft and innput shaft of the box in center line, and then build off of that. You also need to take in to consideration how/if the input shaft needs to be supported by a roller bearing in the crank, and if so, will it reach with this adaptor in place, or do you need to machine someting to make that work. On top of that there's the height of the whole flywheel and clutch assembly that needs to be correct. Uncorrect alignment will kill the bearings, and only work in a track/drift car where both engine and box is rebuildt/thrown away once a year/season and the noise level is so high you can't hear the bearings grind. This video makes it look easy because most of the hard work and calculations are left out.
Hey I have a rx8 I just bought a few days ago I’m putting a b series Honda engine in it. The block is a b20 with a b18 gsr head. I’m willing to pay you to make the adapter plate for my engine to fit on the rear wheel drive rx8 gearbox.
VERY good content
use a sheet of Perspex !
Great job on the plate, but i hate to be that guy, torque load is not held by the dowls but by the friction between the bellhousing and block
Brilliant.
thanks for watching!
@@MODIFYUP Lol dude happy to watch, you just saved me 1k+. Im not buying another plate for this swap after watching.
Need some info for the starter and flywheel in a video
Update video?
Hi, can you build a automatic transmission adapter for my 1954 international harvester R150?
5:00
Some times getting the dell pins out is very difficult to impossible. What must you do in those circumstances?
Without ruining them ofcourse
there are specific tools designed for this so you can removed dowells without damaging them.
Guyz help me about adptor plate for 4jb 280 Isuzu kb engine & Mazda bt 50 3000d gearbox 2009 model price how much ?
Would this be the same as an is200 j160 box?
both are az6 gearboxes so internally they are almost identical with small differences like 6th gear ratio etc
@@MODIFYUP thanks, yeah the az6 is in around 6 vehicles of different brands. I'm contemplating my engine conversion and something different in an IS200/300/altezza chassis. Been looking into the 2azfe+t engines and obviously want to use the j160 because I think the gearbox is great.
Want your help with a plate adapter
You are a bloody fucking savage. Subbed
thank you!
cool