Thanks for the vid, all these posts are appreciated and informative in some way. One point though, I believe the drain plug at the back you refer to as the 28mm socket size is actually the center rear axil oil drain, 1 of 3, the other two being on the wheel hubs.
I have the same issue with water getting into the system due to bad shifter boots. My problem is that the water froze in the filter canister and destroyed the screen. I was fortunate to find a good used screen/valve. The original part was distorted and broken into several parts. If you are in an are where it gets cold, make sure your shift boots are good. Oil will float on the water. After changing the oil and filter, operate all hydraulic controls to their limits several times, drive the tractor and shift through all gears and ranges. Make sure the oil is up to full temperature. Re-track all hydraulic systems to the closed or least extended point. Shutdown the tractor and let it sit at least 24 hours. The water should settle into the filter canister. Then drain the oil again, replace the filter, and refill with all new oils. I understand that the oil is not cheap, but frozen broken & corrosion is more expensive than the oil. This is just from my experience. It worked well for me. Good video and good luck to all!
If you haven't got a gasket you can make one from a cereal packet, or other cardboard, but do not use corrugated or it will leak, put a smear of grease on the face then press the card onto it taking care not to move the card, remove the card and you will have the joint face marked in grease on the card ready to cut out and use, you can buy proper gasket paper and do the same thing but it comes at a price!, just one thing , do not use the folded corner on the packet as it creates a ridge, if you need a bigger gasket than your corn flakes packet then some artists mounting card comes in a variety of thicknesses, and sizes up to AO, I wouldn't try it as a head gasket but for just about all others its fine, been doing this for over forty five years, a "proper" gasket my be better but a home job is far better than nothing, and at three in the morning its available, hope this is helpful☺.
Hi fantastic video, i have a David brown 12/10 the hydraulics wouldn't work at all i took the housing off and the filter was collapsed and so blocked i have never seen anything like it but the problem is my housing isn't round its a different shape i might make a gasket would the filter your using also fit the 12/10
I have an 885 and your video is awesome. One problem I have is where do you refill the oil? I have some manuals and none have the hydraulic oil filler location marked.
I have a question, why did you use metic tools on the tractor. I have six David brown tractors, I have three 770, one 885, one 995, and a 1200 and I never used metric on them I use stander American socket and wenches.
When I bought this tractor, I assumed because of its place of origin, it was all metric. The sockets I used all fit tight and worked well. For that reason, I never questioned it
you've got an absolute legend of a machine there, absolutely bombproof and it's like a little terrier ... punches well above its weight! I've had its bigger brother and 880 and it was the same engine with a heavier rear end, 780 was very popular here in Scotland.... if you ever need any help send me a message......ps don't be put off by noisy transmission.... straight cut gears, they all howl!
and if you ever need to replace the rear brake shoes always remember and push the differential lock pedal down before you pull off the reduction housing or the collar for the diff lock collar drops out into the transmission!
Wow, thanks very much for the info! I really appreciate it Jim. I am going to need to do the brake shoes here soon, so you might have just saved me a BIG hassle. I'm sure I'll pick your brain at some point. Thanks for subscribing too!
Denny's Country Life when you do pull the reductions off there's a shaft that will come out with them they are light enough to pull off yourself if your used to heavy weight but ideally another tractor with a front end loader rope slung around the reduction unit is easier if you pull it off or put it on and don't let the shaft take the weight of the reduction housing, can distort inner seals. ... if there's oil on the shoes, thin oil is transmission side seals.... gear oil on the shoes means the reduction unit seal side is gone ... all easily available, other than that if brakes are nice n dry be careful as factory shoes were asbestos , I'm on Facebook if you need assistance and there's a good david brown tractor group too!
You are the man! I'll get in touch with you on Facebook for sure. Thanks again for everything! Not very many people out there willing to lend a hand anymore.. I consider this rare! Ha ha
I just started working on a DB for my daughter and was looking for a video on where to add hyd. oil as the bucket will not raise; the three pt up and down works fine so I am thinking it must have 2 systems. I do not have a manual as yet and can not find any filler caps. I was hoping to see you fill your system and see where this happens but you cut that out. Also I am not familiar with RTD tried to look it up but found nothing so far.
Thank you for your video. I cringed when you said hydraulic fluid. I've learned from experience that the David Brown Selectamatic transmission oil should be the same weight oil as the engine. I'm working on changing mine again to get my three point hitch to raise and lower. What oil did you use in yours?
Hi Fantastic video would that be the same for the David brown 1210 , did you have to bleed yours mine has the front end loader is there a bleeder valve for the hydraulic system
7/26/2024 When installing a cover with RTV I have an assortment of long bolts with the head removed and a slot cut in the end for easy removal with a screw driver. Use 2 of these across from each other to guide the cover and not smer the RTV. JUST A HELPFUL HINT.
I used J20-C. If you call a IH/Case dealer they'll tell you to use Hy-tran. J20-C will work just fine, as it meets or exceeds all the Hy-tran specs and is much less expensive.
Super Universal Tractor oil. The same stuff that goes in the engine. Don't put transmission oil in it. It wasn't designed for use with this kind of oil. The viscosity would depend on how cold it is in your area I guess. The only part of the tractor that doesn't use SUTO are the final drives.
Thanks for adding the informative video! I purchased a 780 David Brown and used this as a guide. After removing the pan, I've found that I am missing the bottom magnetic filter. I would imagine the person that last changed it, discarded it with the old filter. Are these available and will this hinder the hydraulic system from working? Thank you!
Awesome Brooke! I'm glad this helped you out. I would definitely replace the filter, as mine caught quite a bit of debris that would otherwise cause lots of problems if it had entered the system. Thanks for watching!
In my David Brown 780 there is a large spring that sits over the large indent in the bottom of the pan and compresses against the bottom screen filter. Yours is obviously missing and may have been discarded because of the damage to the pan. Anyway, good video.,
Those filter covers were damaged often because they were totally exposed on those small tractors all the way up passed the 885. The 990 and above were protected by the hitch assembly. Those magnetic filters are next thing to impossible to get
I ended up changing it twice. I ran the first change for about 10 hours and changed it again. Everything went really well and the tractor operated as it should.
huh, that's really interesting to hear. I wonder if there are different generations that use different fasteners. I'm pretty sure hese bolts also had the 8.8 stamp on the top, indicating that they're mid grad steel metric. Thanks for watching!
The front weights on my 1980 1410 say DAVID BROWN 38 Kg, leading me to believe it was entirely metric, but so far that's the only thing that is. Say, don't you want to change the belt and show us how it's done?!? Asking for a friend - lol
Thanks for the vid, all these posts are appreciated and informative in some way. One point though, I believe the drain plug at the back you refer to as the 28mm socket size is actually the center rear axil oil drain, 1 of 3, the other two being on the wheel hubs.
Thank you!
I have the same issue with water getting into the system due to bad shifter boots. My problem is that the water froze in the filter canister and destroyed the screen. I was fortunate to find a good used screen/valve. The original part was distorted and broken into several parts. If you are in an are where it gets cold, make sure your shift boots are good. Oil will float on the water. After changing the oil and filter, operate all hydraulic controls to their limits several times, drive the tractor and shift through all gears and ranges. Make sure the oil is up to full temperature. Re-track all hydraulic systems to the closed or least extended point. Shutdown the tractor and let it sit at least 24 hours. The water should settle into the filter canister. Then drain the oil again, replace the filter, and refill with all new oils. I understand that the oil is not cheap, but frozen broken & corrosion is more expensive than the oil. This is just from my experience. It worked well for me. Good video and good luck to all!
I am just in the process of changing the filter of my David Brown 990 for the hydraulic transmission your video was very helpful
I'm glad it helped out! Thanks for watching, and take care of that 990. Good old machines!
If you haven't got a gasket you can make one from a cereal packet, or other cardboard, but do not use corrugated or it will leak, put a smear of grease on the face then press the card onto it taking care not to move the card, remove the card and you will have the joint face marked in grease on the card ready to cut out and use, you can buy proper gasket paper and do the same thing but it comes at a price!, just one thing , do not use the folded corner on the packet as it creates a ridge, if you need a bigger gasket than your corn flakes packet then some artists mounting card comes in a variety of thicknesses, and sizes up to AO, I wouldn't try it as a head gasket but for just about all others its fine, been doing this for over forty five years, a "proper" gasket my be better but a home job is far better than nothing, and at three in the morning its available, hope this is helpful☺.
Just about to change the filter on my 885. Thanks for this - informative and helpful: especially the bit about the spring!!!!
Awesome! I'm glad it helped!
Super video, some great info.
Nice I have one question what tipe oil do you use
What oil did you use great vid
Hi fantastic video, i have a David brown 12/10 the hydraulics wouldn't work at all i took the housing off and the filter was collapsed and so blocked i have never seen anything like it but the problem is my housing isn't round its a different shape i might make a gasket would the filter your using also fit the 12/10
Does the transmission hydraulic fluid system run the 3-point hydraulics as well? Or is it 2 separate reservoir pump systems? Thankyou
It is just one system
All runs on the same fluid
I have an 885 and your video is awesome. One problem I have is where do you refill the oil? I have some manuals and none have the hydraulic oil filler location marked.
hey did you find out where is the oil filler? i just got an DB 990 and would like to change the oil
The filler plug is just in front of the gear shifters. It takes a 1/2" square drive rachet (no socket) to get it out. Hope this helps.
Very good video. But what tool did you use to take out the fill plug? Kind of seems like a 1/2 socket extension. Please help.
That's exactly what I used. Thanks for watching, and have a good one!
I have a question, why did you use metic tools on the tractor. I have six David brown tractors, I have three 770, one 885, one 995, and a 1200 and I never used metric on them I use stander American socket and wenches.
When I bought this tractor, I assumed because of its place of origin, it was all metric. The sockets I used all fit tight and worked well. For that reason, I never questioned it
you've got an absolute legend of a machine there, absolutely bombproof and it's like a little terrier ... punches well above its weight! I've had its bigger brother and 880 and it was the same engine with a heavier rear end, 780 was very popular here in Scotland.... if you ever need any help send me a message......ps don't be put off by noisy transmission.... straight cut gears, they all howl!
and if you ever need to replace the rear brake shoes always remember and push the differential lock pedal down before you pull off the reduction housing or the collar for the diff lock collar drops out into the transmission!
Wow, thanks very much for the info! I really appreciate it Jim. I am going to need to do the brake shoes here soon, so you might have just saved me a BIG hassle. I'm sure I'll pick your brain at some point. Thanks for subscribing too!
Denny's Country Life when you do pull the reductions off there's a shaft that will come out with them they are light enough to pull off yourself if your used to heavy weight but ideally another tractor with a front end loader rope slung around the reduction unit is easier if you pull it off or put it on and don't let the shaft take the weight of the reduction housing, can distort inner seals. ... if there's oil on the shoes, thin oil is transmission side seals.... gear oil on the shoes means the reduction unit seal side is gone ... all easily available, other than that if brakes are nice n dry be careful as factory shoes were asbestos , I'm on Facebook if you need assistance and there's a good david brown tractor group too!
You are the man! I'll get in touch with you on Facebook for sure. Thanks again for everything! Not very many people out there willing to lend a hand anymore.. I consider this rare! Ha ha
Denny's Country Life cool I'm the one with the david brown 950 as his profile pic lol
I just started working on a DB for my daughter and was looking for a video on where to add hyd. oil as the bucket will not raise; the three pt up and down works fine so I am thinking it must have 2 systems. I do not have a manual as yet and can not find any filler caps. I was hoping to see you fill your system and see where this happens but you cut that out. Also I am not familiar with RTD tried to look it up but found nothing so far.
On at least some DB tractors, there's a diverter valve that takes the power from the 3 point and uses it for the loader.
The fill plug should be on top of the transmission near the shifters.
What oil gone in david brown 995 in transmision
Thank you for your video. I cringed when you said hydraulic fluid. I've learned from experience that the David Brown Selectamatic transmission oil should be the same weight oil as the engine. I'm working on changing mine again to get my three point hitch to raise and lower. What oil did you use in yours?
Hi Fantastic video would that be the same for the David brown 1210 , did you have to bleed yours mine has the front end loader is there a bleeder valve for the hydraulic system
Honestly I'm not sure about the 1210, as I have no experience with one. I would think it would be very similar. Good luck and have fun!
How tight would you recommend the bolts on the filter pan to be?
I don't have a torque spec for you. Just go by feel. You want it snug-tight, but not too tight.
Thanks. Great video. Made changing the fluids and filter on my DB 990 a breeze!
I had no trouble getting new gaskets or any David brown parts for my 780. But I do live in England.
Where can I get a magnetic filter? I just removed mine and it is destroyed.
John Palmer did you get one? Where from?
7/26/2024 When installing a cover with RTV I have an assortment of long bolts with the head removed and a slot cut in the end for easy removal with a screw driver. Use 2 of these across from each other to guide the cover and not smer the RTV. JUST A HELPFUL HINT.
What kind of oil need to put on transmission of db 885
I used J20-C. If you call a IH/Case dealer they'll tell you to use Hy-tran. J20-C will work just fine, as it meets or exceeds all the Hy-tran specs and is much less expensive.
Super Universal Tractor oil. The same stuff that goes in the engine. Don't put transmission oil in it. It wasn't designed for use with this kind of oil. The viscosity would depend on how cold it is in your area I guess.
The only part of the tractor that doesn't use SUTO are the final drives.
SeeDenny's Country Life
Thanks for adding the informative video! I purchased a 780 David Brown and used this as a guide. After removing the pan, I've found that I am missing the bottom magnetic filter. I would imagine the person that last changed it, discarded it with the old filter. Are these available and will this hinder the hydraulic system from working? Thank you!
Awesome Brooke! I'm glad this helped you out. I would definitely replace the filter, as mine caught quite a bit of debris that would otherwise cause lots of problems if it had entered the system. Thanks for watching!
Davidbrownparts.com
I’m about to change mine, I found the gasket on Amazon
what was the filter number and make you used for your David brown ?
K920522 (Don't know the make) It says it can be used on everything on up to the 990. All the best
thnx mate this was very helpfull i got to swap it out myselve
I'm glad it helped! Thanks a lot for watching, and have fun!
What fluid did you fill it with?
CNH Hytran.
Great video! Thank you!
You're welcome, thanks for watching!
What type of fluid should I use for my db 996 power steering??
I'm pretty sure you use Hytran on it, but I would call your dealer or consult the owners manual.
Do you have any idea how can I drain the old one??
In my David Brown 780 there is a large spring that sits over the large indent in the bottom of the pan and compresses against the bottom screen filter. Yours is obviously missing and may have been discarded because of the damage to the pan. Anyway, good video.,
Rick Collard Huh, that's good to know! Thanks for the input, and thanks for watching!
Yesterday's tractor parts has the gaskets and filters for those
Hi Denny's. I need to change mine again soon. Good video. Cheers Calvin
Awesome, I hope this helped! Thanks a lot for watching Calvin, and have fun.
Those filter covers were damaged often because they were totally exposed on those small tractors all the way up passed the 885. The 990 and above were protected by the hitch assembly. Those magnetic filters are next thing to impossible to get
Can you survive without one? Mine is absolutely destroyed and like you said they are impossible to find.
i just did it but the 3hsp won't lift?
Type of oil?
Air trap?
Thanks
15 40 the oil
15-40 thanks 🙏
Did you flush this out before re filling it? If so what did you use and what were the results
Did it all go smoothly and work straight away
Thanks
I ended up changing it twice. I ran the first change for about 10 hours and changed it again. Everything went really well and the tractor operated as it should.
Small point and perhaps a bit pernickety but I don't think there's any bolt, nut or drain plug on that tractor that is metric.
Good video though
huh, that's really interesting to hear. I wonder if there are different generations that use different fasteners. I'm pretty sure hese bolts also had the 8.8 stamp on the top, indicating that they're mid grad steel metric. Thanks for watching!
The front weights on my 1980 1410 say DAVID BROWN 38 Kg, leading me to believe it was entirely metric, but so far that's the only thing that is.
Say, don't you want to change the belt and show us how it's done?!? Asking for a friend - lol
All the original bolts would be in imperial sizes unless they have been replaced with metric
My DB 880 Selectamatiic hydraulic drain plug requires a 15mm wrench