Thankyou for your site! I am a retired gran living in a home unit in the town ( in South Australia) now that my husband and brother have passed away... miss the country, miss the men folk repairing things and managing the land so much... until I found your show. Now I can "go home" while I have a cup of tea in my reclining chair with my little dog. You are so resourceful, like my folks were. I love the mowing and clearing, and the forklift story has to have been the most enjoyable find. I would have like to have had a better look around that auction yard where you bought the crane truck (just to smell the air and imagine what I would buy!) so perhaps if ever you visit there again for something else you could take us all along for the ride. Thankyou again for such great You Tube content. There must be a lot of once strong busy farmers and country people who have been slowed down by old age, getting a kick out of reliving your working world. All the very best to you and your family!
My father was an Allis Chalmers forklift dealer starting in 1955. That is a G153 engine made by Allis Chalmers in their Harvey Illinois plant. It was a very good engine.
Well you say that but the modern ones beep at you with cryptic messages and don't want to start until the dealer comes by with the comfuser. Progress right?
Diesel Creek if you plan on keeping the forklift u might want to invest in a pertronix electronic distributor . i bought one for my y112 continental enhine and it starts and runs awesome now no long crank times. no hesitating or stalling
@@paulsilva3346 mine was completely shot had to much side play in the shaft bushings. it would start and run but it would stall out.Now that i changed it out it is like night and day in how the old girl runs.
I don't know if it was already mentioned but you might want to look into the thermostat and put in a 180 at least to keep that condensation from forming. They always used 160 degree thermostats in the early years and a lot of people took them out altogether and this was the end result. The engine will run a lot better if it gets up to temperature also.
Im a couple of years late to the party but I figured id throw my 2 cents in anyway. the oil looking the way it did does not surprise me. I would recommend putting some sea foam in the oil. Change the oil a few times in a row to get that all out. also let the ol girl get up to temp and just run for an hour or two every few months. if you ever need some parts feel free to contact me. id be happy to see what I can do for you. much respect for the work you did. Im impressed at your skills
That looks like it's gonna be a pretty nice concrete forklift. I once ran a 1936 Clark at a tool and die shop I worked at. It had a Chrysler industrial 6 cyl. and a wooden steering wheel that could break your wrist if you ran into a nut or bolt on the ground. AC made very good products. That one is living proof.
It amazes me that a seller would not spend the time and effort to change the oil, fix the plug and points. So little investment and so much potential return. But stupid saves you and me money and gives us a great hobby. From the soggy banks of Underwood Branch in East Wampler, TX, thanks for the fun. 🤠
The milky oil is normal for propane hilo's. The problem is 2 fold (1)burning propane actually creates water and co2 as a by product of combustion. (2) Hilos owned by people like you and me get run for 2-10 minutes at a time and never get up to full operating temp to cook moisture out of the oil. The moisture goes past the piston rings and collects in the pan building up every time its run. Change oil every 4-6 months regardless of hours used or let it run outside at wot for 30mins+ every 2 months
@@DieselCreek Right on but you know those same neighbors will be asking (begging) for your help when things actually get crazy. Don't worry about them keep doing the right thing. They will get it eventually. Help them out when they need it and they will forget all about your addiction to awesome equipment. Lol my neighbors don't complain a bit anymore because they know I will bring machines over all they have to do is ask. Love the video's keep up the good work!
@@DieselCreek awesome vid! but remember rule number one, when it runs rough and you fix plugs and change some seriously nasty oil and directly oil the head....we want to hear it run after! for comparison, keep up the great work, excited for the next installment
@CalsGarage in fairness that K-seal goop isn't too bad, it was developed with the Rover K-series in mind (an awful engine, well known for head gasket issues and water/oil mixing). It only really congeals where it meets a leak, doesn't block heaters (not that a forky Mcforkface has one) and works really effectively on oil/water mixing issues. Half the problem with it is people use it on engines too far gone, they let the problem develop until it overheats & pops a fire ring out and then they try K-seal when there's combustion gases leaking, and then complain that it's snake oil. No cure for a properly blown HG except to repair, but sealant can be good when used right (i.e. on something cheap we don't want to put time and money into in case it's DOA anyway, much like most K-series Rovers were from new lol). I do see your point though, likely not needed in this case, but if it was losing/using coolant then it'll most likely stop that wherever it was leaking to.
Former Milwaukee/West Allis resident here, so I'm prejudiced. My first snowblower as a homeowner was my mother-in-law's old A-C. Ran it until we had a fuel leak that caught fire and burned it. My experience is they made very durable stuff that was taken over by Simplicity in 1987 when A-C went out of business.
I will also confirm that my forklifts always have condensation in the crankcase. They do not get run as much as they did a decade ago. I have been using Lucas oil treatment which seems to help with the condensation lubrication problem. You probably benefit by buying a new set of solid wire conductor plug wires. The wires seem to be frequently over looked in routine forklift maintenance.
Mr. Creek: when changing oil with massive water and its milky, buy two oil filters before running full time. Take two gallons of diesel and pour it in after draining oil. Let sit for one hour. Dump it then after running for 1/2hr change the newly plugged up oil filter and then run sweetly for the next ten yrs.
Simba Fishtigre not using diesel as a lubricant but using it as a flush. Notice he said use 2 gallons and let it sit 1 hour then drain and 2 oil changes?
Yep, I think you come out pretty sweet on that deal, Matt! I love seeing old things being resurrected, given a new lease on life and being put back to work! Great job, my dude! 👍
You’re a brave man holding that plug wire, I had a buddy with a old impala with a 307, we were trouble shooting a dead hole...and I grabbed a plug wire....tasted my fillings doing that...it lit me up, but found the problem.
I was thinking the same thing! I remember the old 65 Ford my brother drove. We were working on it one day, & I brushed the plug wire. It light me up more than my RC trucks headlamps!
i used to get my mom with the push mowers plug wire. I would tell her to pull it off to kill the engine !! LOL she actually did it 2 times before she realized i just had to let go of the little handle bar lever, she wasnt amused since she thought she was actually helping me fix it...haha
I'll admit it. I'm chicken. I'll use one of my jumper cables, clamp it to the spark plug, other end to the frame or battery ground. The prospect of having my eyeballs lit up makes me jumpy, that in itself is unsafe.
I once got zapped even with freaking nitrile gloves on... Best thing is not to touch it with your hards but to ducktape it to a PVC pipe and test it this way. Zappy zap zap is not fun
I've run one of these Allis forklifts many moons ago. Allis was a leader in forklifts . They were extremely strong but a real pig if you take them off the cement. They just drop to the belly! Man she is a keeper! Great score son.
Good bit of progress on the forklift. I would not mind seeing more videos even if it was one or two parts that get fixed. Nice to see the evolution of a project, especially when it turns out good.
Matt thank you for the lesson with the spark plugs and the wires I’ve been around Mechanics a long time always had somebody else working on them now that I’m semi retired I’m getting fully involved in it just had a little bit more knowledge for me thank you,,, wants again keep up the great work...... FYI if you’re under something are you around something or you got a body up in the air !!!!!!! Take the extra time to put a block of wood just a reminder under the car or that truck,,,Town selectman from town in Connecticut die last week,, was working on a stock on his garage the car fell off the jackstands and it crush me to death,,,,,, sometimes we forget all about safety because were in a rush my FYI on a Friday you take care junkman do
Yea agree with post on pouring some diesel thru to wash junk out. You are quite a mechanic. Ole Yellow will be purring like a kitten in next video of her restoration!!! Enjoyed!!!
A one wire alternator will solve your charging problems fairly cheaply. Just a thought. Really like the videos. Your get it done attitude is refreshing.
Its so awsome how your channel has taken off. I talked to you when you just was starting this thing. They way you explain stuff and know what your talking about is the best part. Keep doing what you do brother, i will always be there to see your next project.
Right but I'd add some diesel in the oil just before changing the oil to really rinse all that crap from the small oil passages. Only my 2 cents ! I like your work (playing) so far ! You did good with that 200$ lift !
Add some alcohol (strong as you can find) to the milky mix and run briefly. The alcohol will mix with the water and get it out. Don't need to add diesel.
If I had to figure why your oil was so milky, i'd wager it has to do with the fact that any blowby from those pistons will be water vapor and co2. A running propane engine produces water and co2 as its emissions. Now being that this forklift probably wasn't run hard enough to get the oil reliably up to 100c, and the motor was only run short periods, water vapor just kept building up. I don't think it's a head gasket. I think it's a symptom of running propane and not running it long enough for the oil to dry. TL;DR - The exhaust of a propane engine is water vapor and co2. (Hence why it's allowed in buildings.) Any blowby will be water vapor, and co2. Not run up to temp to dry oil.
Great video Matt really like the forklift ,get yourself a new condenser to go with your points they are cheap, and it absorbs excess energy and keeps points from arcing too much and burning.
I'm surprised that no mention was made of the rotor arm distributor cap and çertainly if the points have got a tit on them then change the condenser because thats whats causing the tit on the points, be interesting to see the end result.
Is the PCV piping not clogged and connected to the intake ? It could explain why there is so much moisture,while the pipe is pretty well dimensioned already.
Learned something new today, thanks! Wouldn't mind seeing more of the repairs on this, but understand if you don't have time to video and edit all that. I enjoy pretty much any video you put out. Hope you get some nice weather soon, and you and yours are all healthy.
Well I have to say that after hearing it run. It sounds exactly like, the one my Dad had... The same put put put, I don't think it's misfiring. Either that or my dad's was misfiring for years. Lol
Hello Matt, you working on the fork truck,takes me back quite a few years, when I was younger I had a second hand MINi VAN the original type this was about 1964, a rust bucket. But you tracing duff spark plugs was just the same 👍👍👍. Best wishes Geoff Lewis, Wales, UK, 🏴🏴🏴
I used to work in an RV plant around 2006, on the property we had an old Allis-Chalmers forklift that probably came over on the Ark, had a Continental flathead inline six in it. Guy that I worked with had been a lift truck mechanic in a plywood mill and he was the only one in the shop that knew how to work on it, it had to be from the 50s or possibly older (Under the yellow paint it was olive drab so I imagine it was military). Someone had named it "Alice" and of course one of the other guys wrote "IN CHAINS" under it :P
Here is a measurement to check when setting the points, in addition to setting the timing because it varies with the gap. Your father may have an old dell meter in his shop that he will let you use. They are pretty much obsolete these days, but it is a more accurate measurement of the point system. That milky oil, while slick, will eat up babbet bearings quickly, not that is a concern in this project. www.howacarworks.com/ignition-system/checking-the-dwell-angle
Great videos. Keep up the good work. Just a tip, the points break the 12 volt circuit to the coil and the collapsing magnetic field in the primary winding of the coil induces the high voltage to be generated in the secondary coil winding. I think you are very talented at all you do.
When your drilling through metal, slow down the speed of the drill. You will find that it will make drilling easier That fact depends on the drill bits
I have had nothing but awful experiences with "head gasket sealers" they end up gumming up your cooling channels and making everything worse in my experience. Even totalling the block
It's the same thing as tire slime. It's something done by lazy idiots trying to prolong the inevitable. It never works and it turns a simple weekend fix into massive destruction.
Back when I had cars with points and a mechanical distributor, I'd replace the condenser when I'd replace the points... The cap and rotor don't look too bad on this machine, but they get worn / spark eroded, and sometimes they'll crack and no longer have the right geometry. On some distributors, only the OEM cap & rotor will work - I learned the hard way about aftermarket parts not quite fitting... The other thing that you've been mentioning is those plug wires - they look like a cut-to-fit kit that never got cut, and the boots may not have been installed properly on the ends... Your coil looks to be good, so there's not too much to look at with regards to getting a spark. Oh, and if one plug is bad, you might as well buy a full new set...
motor sound didn't change alot when checking compression on that cylinder either. I'm like alot of the other peeps I don't care if it's 20 video's about it more I will watch
I had the same forklift during the eighties. Worked well but had problems with the gas valve turned out to be poor water flow through it. Look for frost to form on it in the cold weather usually means low coolant.thanks for the memory.
Forklift burnouts and "hill climbs" are COOL! I worked in a warehouse with these Allis Chalmers and some Towmotor rigs. Forklift drag races are fun too!
Looking forward to hearing it run after this. Change the oil again after a couple of hours and get the rest of the crud out of it and the filter. Love old gear! regards,
Forklifts can be one of the most useful shop tools . If you take the counter weight off , you can probably do some light lifting around the yard . Most CW sit in a saddle .
I knew when it started while you were checking compression on the rear cylinder that "There's your problem Lady" 😎 The cheapest fork truck on Market Place, might just be your best deal. After all, it does say Allis Chalmers on it. I had 8 Allis tractors at one time. I'm down to 4. 3 that will run, and the CA my dad bought new in 1951 that needs my attention for a good bit. Maybe after the OC46 is up and running, I can spend some time on the CA.
compressiontest only and always on warm engine, wihtout ignition cables connected to the sparkplugs. Otherwise missfires will build pressure in the enginehousing faking the compressiontest. With the burnouts you got me
I had the pony on a D-6, 9u series Cat lock up on me. Took it off, took it apart (it needed an overhaul anyway) and found that a big chunk of that rusty crap had fallen from the top cover, right over the oil catch cup that fed the main bearing. It got hot, swelled and stuck it. Had to clamp the bearing in the vise and drive the crank out of it. Didn't even heat mark the crank. A tiny bit of polish with some crocus cloth and it was good. We replaced the bearing, but I might have been able to get away with honing the old one. I tried that later, on an old 3 phase motor, it is currently the best running one in the shop.
Condensation can definitely put that much water in the oil. How many years has it been treated to start, run for 5 min or less and shut off for hours? If not days? Without running long enough to get the oil hot enough to purge, the condensation will continue to accumulate. Either run it for at least an hour when in use, or due extra maintenance and oil changes. Obvious find on the bad plug. Funny how you started with #4 for the compression test and #3 for spark test. Well done Captain Obvious. Good job getting it running on all 4. Thanks for sharing
You could eliminate a lot of that condensation in your oil by converting from that road draft tube to a positive crankcase ventilation system, it's cheap and easy to do.
John Carter is correct for a dab of paints lub. Also, how does the spark advance? With on vacuum can visible, must be centrifugal spark advance. Rotating the rotor, you should be able to feel counter weights moving. Felt disc inside shaft under rotor should get a couple of drops of oil as lub.
Love driveing forklifts there right man for doing up Old forklift can’t see take some stuff of trucks this year! Some pallets stuff are awesome! Regards Chris
I've always been compelled to fix and build stuff too...must be some sort of illness! That overlong tangle of plug wires is bothering the crap outta me! Nice video!
I drove a lot of forklifts in my day, drove one just like that one and it was a great little forklift. Working on day four of binge-watching Diesel creek, is there no end to the videos? Great channel.
Is there a best oil for wet conditions? specialized, cold running, forklift oil? Thinner oil perhaps for cold running? cheap oil that one can afford to change more often? Castrol Magnatec is supposed to cling to metal to help with startup protection, does it also help prevent internal rust by clinging? Not real cheap though.
Now you have replaced the points you need to check the static timing. Find the engine timing mark and you can loosen the distributor body clamp and twist the distributor to set the timing. It sounds a bit late. If you can't find a timing mark try altering it when running and watch if the idle speed goes up or down. Aim for an increase if you find it will but go no further than that. Also make sure the advance bob/weights are free, they are little understood these days and are always neglected. If you can twist the cam slightly with the rotor they are not stuck.
Thoroughly enjoying this stuff Matt. You must have been well-pleased when she fired-up so easily. I've never had any dealing with a propane machine but, for once, I can actually follow what's going on. It seems like a nice, simple machine, with way fewer things to go wrong than a modern version. I'm guessing the word "electronic" won't be included in it's manual. Only thing I noticed; I would have put a squirt of paint on the bottom of the rollcage pipes after you cut them ~ no point in adding *more* rust to the picture. Are you planning to finish the job with a coat of paint, or are you going for the "patina" look? Cheers for now. Stay healthy, wash yer hands.😁 Dougie.
Backing up in time, I decided to re-watch this series. It amazes me, after seeing you do such good work, that you didn't recognize a dead cylinder right away. Bad plug or wire and run on 4 cylinders. Last episode I was yelling at the screen to fix the dead hole. You do eventually find it, but it took you way too long. Thanks for sharing
Thankyou for your site! I am a retired gran living in a home unit in the town ( in South Australia) now that my husband and brother have passed away... miss the country, miss the men folk repairing things and managing the land so much... until I found your show. Now I can "go home" while I have a cup of tea in my reclining chair with my little dog. You are so resourceful, like my folks were. I love the mowing and clearing, and the forklift story has to have been the most enjoyable find. I would have like to have had a better look around that auction yard where you bought the crane truck (just to smell the air and imagine what I would buy!) so perhaps if ever you visit there again for something else you could take us all along for the ride. Thankyou again for such great You Tube content. There must be a lot of once strong busy farmers and country people who have been slowed down by old age, getting a kick out of reliving your working world. All the very best to you and your family!
She's a runner! Grab some carpet scraps. Gives your forklift a little extra grip. Learned that from some riggers working in the rain.
good tip thanks man!
My father was an Allis Chalmers forklift dealer starting in 1955. That is a G153 engine made by Allis Chalmers in their Harvey Illinois plant. It was a very good engine.
thats awesome! it seems to run quite well now!
Well you say that but the modern ones beep at you with cryptic messages and don't want to start until the dealer comes by with the comfuser. Progress right?
Diesel Creek if you plan on keeping the forklift u might want to invest in a pertronix electronic distributor . i bought one for my y112 continental enhine and it starts and runs awesome now no long crank times. no hesitating or stalling
@@Genetics1 unless the distributor is shot portronics sells just the points replacement kits 4 Allis Chalmers
@@paulsilva3346 mine was completely shot had to much side play in the shaft bushings. it would start and run but it would stall out.Now that i changed it out it is like night and day in how the old girl runs.
I don't know if it was already mentioned but you might want to look into the thermostat and put in a 180 at least to keep that condensation from forming. They always used 160 degree thermostats in the early years and a lot of people took them out altogether and this was the end result. The engine will run a lot better if it gets up to temperature also.
I don't mind seeing short videos every other day, keeps things going. This is a fun project.
thanks for watching!
Me, too. I like seeing the story progress. Keep up the good work.
Im a couple of years late to the party but I figured id throw my 2 cents in anyway. the oil looking the way it did does not surprise me. I would recommend putting some sea foam in the oil. Change the oil a few times in a row to get that all out. also let the ol girl get up to temp and just run for an hour or two every few months. if you ever need some parts feel free to contact me. id be happy to see what I can do for you. much respect for the work you did. Im impressed at your skills
That looks like it's gonna be a pretty nice concrete forklift. I once ran a 1936 Clark at a tool and die shop I worked at. It had a Chrysler industrial 6 cyl. and a wooden steering wheel that could break your wrist if you ran into a nut or bolt on the ground. AC made very good products. That one is living proof.
you feel every bump thats for sure! thanks for watching!
It amazes me that a seller would not spend the time and effort to change the oil, fix the plug and points. So little investment and so much potential return. But stupid saves you and me money and gives us a great hobby. From the soggy banks of Underwood Branch in East Wampler, TX, thanks for the fun. 🤠
The milky oil is normal for propane hilo's. The problem is 2 fold (1)burning propane actually creates water and co2 as a by product of combustion. (2) Hilos owned by people like you and me get run for 2-10 minutes at a time and never get up to full operating temp to cook moisture out of the oil. The moisture goes past the piston rings and collects in the pan building up every time its run. Change oil every 4-6 months regardless of hours used or let it run outside at wot for 30mins+ every 2 months
I think ill be going that second route becaue... well the neighbors already hate me so gotta keep up appearances!
@@DieselCreek LOL once a month for half to three quarters an hour at dinner time
@@DieselCreek Right on but you know those same neighbors will be asking (begging) for your help when things actually get crazy. Don't worry about them keep doing the right thing. They will get it eventually. Help them out when they need it and they will forget all about your addiction to awesome equipment. Lol my neighbors don't complain a bit anymore because they know I will bring machines over all they have to do is ask. Love the video's keep up the good work!
@@DieselCreek awesome vid! but remember rule number one, when it runs rough and you fix plugs and change some seriously nasty oil and directly oil the head....we want to hear it run after! for comparison, keep up the great work, excited for the next installment
@CalsGarage in fairness that K-seal goop isn't too bad, it was developed with the Rover K-series in mind (an awful engine, well known for head gasket issues and water/oil mixing). It only really congeals where it meets a leak, doesn't block heaters (not that a forky Mcforkface has one) and works really effectively on oil/water mixing issues. Half the problem with it is people use it on engines too far gone, they let the problem develop until it overheats & pops a fire ring out and then they try K-seal when there's combustion gases leaking, and then complain that it's snake oil. No cure for a properly blown HG except to repair, but sealant can be good when used right (i.e. on something cheap we don't want to put time and money into in case it's DOA anyway, much like most K-series Rovers were from new lol).
I do see your point though, likely not needed in this case, but if it was losing/using coolant then it'll most likely stop that wherever it was leaking to.
Former Milwaukee/West Allis resident here, so I'm prejudiced. My first snowblower as a homeowner was my mother-in-law's old A-C. Ran it until we had a fuel leak that caught fire and burned it. My experience is they made very durable stuff that was taken over by Simplicity in 1987 when A-C went out of business.
Wow! Working in your garage. No special tools just your common sense. Well done sir!!
I will also confirm that my forklifts always have condensation in the crankcase. They do not get run as much as they did a decade ago. I have been using Lucas oil treatment which seems to help with the condensation lubrication problem. You probably benefit by buying a new set of solid wire conductor plug wires. The wires seem to be frequently over looked in routine forklift maintenance.
Always fun to watch you resurrect these beasts! Thanks for letting us watch!
thank you for watching!
Congratulations with your forklift get running, thank you for sharing your amazing journey. God bless you and your family.
Mr. Creek: when changing oil with massive water and its milky, buy two oil filters before running full time. Take two gallons of diesel and pour it in after draining oil. Let sit for one hour. Dump it then after running for 1/2hr change the newly plugged up oil filter and then run sweetly for the next ten yrs.
I definitely would have douched the engine out with some K1 before refilling the oil.
@@tomlangley6236 lol first time ive ever seen anyone online use douche in the correct way without swearing at someone
@@SamCyanide truth!
Using Diesel for 30min in a engine as lubricant? Just do two oil changes in a short row with filter as simple oil is cheap
Simba Fishtigre not using diesel as a lubricant but using it as a flush. Notice he said use 2 gallons and let it sit 1 hour then drain and 2 oil changes?
Yep, I think you come out pretty sweet on that deal, Matt! I love seeing old things being resurrected, given a new lease on life and being put back to work! Great job, my dude! 👍
thanks for watching!!!
You’re a brave man holding that plug wire, I had a buddy with a old impala with a 307, we were trouble shooting a dead hole...and I grabbed a plug wire....tasted my fillings doing that...it lit me up, but found the problem.
ya, especially one that's already arcing to the block LOL
I was thinking the same thing! I remember the old 65 Ford my brother drove. We were working on it one day, & I brushed the plug wire. It light me up more than my RC trucks headlamps!
i used to get my mom with the push mowers plug wire. I would tell her to pull it off to kill the engine !! LOL she actually did it 2 times before she realized i just had to let go of the little handle bar lever, she wasnt amused since she thought she was actually helping me fix it...haha
I'll admit it. I'm chicken. I'll use one of my jumper cables, clamp it to the spark plug, other end to the frame or battery ground. The prospect of having my eyeballs lit up makes me jumpy, that in itself is unsafe.
I once got zapped even with freaking nitrile gloves on... Best thing is not to touch it with your hards but to ducktape it to a PVC pipe and test it this way. Zappy zap zap is not fun
Top tip, anything full of oil and water emulsion can be cleaned by filling it with diesel. The water stays in the diesel when you drain it out!!!
Loving this series on the forklift. Doing a great job.
I've run one of these Allis forklifts many moons ago. Allis was a leader in forklifts . They were extremely strong but a real pig if you take them off the cement. They just drop to the belly! Man she is a keeper! Great score son.
All lifts regardless of manufacturer were pigs when they had warehouse tires on
Good bit of progress on the forklift. I would not mind seeing more videos even if it was one or two parts that get fixed. Nice to see the evolution of a project, especially when it turns out good.
I'm glad you fixed up the old girl I like the style.
Matt thank you for the lesson with the spark plugs and the wires I’ve been around Mechanics a long time always had somebody else working on them now that I’m semi retired I’m getting fully involved in it just had a little bit more knowledge for me thank you,,, wants again keep up the great work...... FYI if you’re under something are you around something or you got a body up in the air !!!!!!! Take the extra time to put a block of wood just a reminder under the car or that truck,,,Town selectman from town in Connecticut die last week,, was working on a stock on his garage the car fell off the jackstands and it crush me to death,,,,,, sometimes we forget all about safety because were in a rush my FYI on a Friday you take care junkman do
Yea agree with post on pouring some diesel thru to wash junk out. You are quite a mechanic. Ole Yellow will be purring like a kitten in next video of her restoration!!! Enjoyed!!!
thanks for watching!
Great fun getting it going. I can see a new cement driveway in the future. That will definitely cost ya more than $200 though.
A one wire alternator will solve your charging problems fairly cheaply. Just a thought. Really like the videos. Your get it done attitude is refreshing.
Burnouts and drifting with a folk lift, now that's awesome!
Nice little forklift. keep it for your dream shop. flat floor nice small unit
she ain't smoking and sounds solid think you got a good deal with her
I have a 1986 Allis Chalmers pneumatic tire forklift, it has 3 stage with sideshift...I love it! I bought it from the original owner..
I wish this one had side shift! thats so handy!
Giving the little guy a reach around to release the schmoo
Ahhh the very best of Mustie1 and AvE all rolled into one easy post...
Its so awsome how your channel has taken off. I talked to you when you just was starting this thing. They way you explain stuff and know what your talking about is the best part. Keep doing what you do brother, i will always be there to see your next project.
If you had any old oil lying around you could have used that to run the engine for a bit and then change that oil then adding the new oil
A chopped top forklift, pretty sweet 👍💯
I’d change oil and filter after a few hours to get rid of the rest condensation in that old oil.
my plan exactly!
Right but I'd add some diesel in the oil just before changing the oil to really rinse all that crap from the small oil passages.
Only my 2 cents ! I like your work (playing) so far ! You did good with that 200$ lift !
Add some alcohol (strong as you can find) to the milky mix and run briefly. The alcohol will mix with the water and get it out. Don't need to add diesel.
Like your common sense approach to fixing the forklift. Reminds me of working on my old Volkswagen beetles pretty simple
The simpler the better
A lefty that does research about the stuff he bought and likes history? Join the club ! Best YT ever ! ^^
well thank you!!
Good 'ol thorough troubleshooting, unlike several folks that fire shotgun parts. You're the man, Matt. Keep on sending these videos.
thank you sir! im far too cheap for wasteful spending on parts!
A half turn of play in the steering wheel is "normal". LOL
Only way to spend the first couple hours of my Sunday is watching Diesel Creek.
If you have the time, leave the valve cover off and start the engine. Best to make sure the rockers arms are getting their lube
Looking back at your old garage workshop, I really appreciate how u worked in there, considering what little space you had.
Thanks for the video. I really like this content you produce.
awesome! thanks for watching!
Boy, you're amazing. Always enjoy watching and learning from you.
If I had to figure why your oil was so milky, i'd wager it has to do with the fact that any blowby from those pistons will be water vapor and co2. A running propane engine produces water and co2 as its emissions. Now being that this forklift probably wasn't run hard enough to get the oil reliably up to 100c, and the motor was only run short periods, water vapor just kept building up. I don't think it's a head gasket. I think it's a symptom of running propane and not running it long enough for the oil to dry.
TL;DR - The exhaust of a propane engine is water vapor and co2. (Hence why it's allowed in buildings.) Any blowby will be water vapor, and co2. Not run up to temp to dry oil.
yes that seems to be the concensus! thanks for watching!
Nice explaination and makes good sense why the oil was so milky. I'm sure Matt will keep an eye on it.
Always fun to see how you try to repair a machine.. tks. 2.9.24
Great video Matt really like the forklift ,get yourself a new condenser to go with your points they are cheap, and it absorbs excess energy and keeps points from arcing too much and burning.
I'm surprised that no mention was made of the rotor arm distributor cap and çertainly if the points have got a tit on them then change the condenser because thats whats causing the tit on the points, be interesting to see the end result.
Point distributors usually run on 6 volts through the points to keep them from arcing. The coil gets extra windings to keep the output up.
I did mention they do get stuck easy on uneven terrain. Lol. I have to say, I enjoy watching somebody do the work I used to do.
thank you for watcing!
Did you check the valve adjustments when you had the cover off? BTW, love your videos. Thanks for sharing!
No I didn’t know the specs on them, I’ve since found them and will check in the future
Is the PCV piping not clogged and connected to the intake ?
It could explain why there is so much moisture,while the pipe is pretty well dimensioned already.
Nice video. Would like to see you paint it once you have it mechanically repaired.
Thinking about that!
Learned something new today, thanks! Wouldn't mind seeing more of the repairs on this, but understand if you don't have time to video and edit all that. I enjoy pretty much any video you put out. Hope you get some nice weather soon, and you and yours are all healthy.
Hopefully it's longer than 20. Just getting comfy and the show ends
Believe it’s around 35 min
She's coming along. Don't mind the segmented videos at all and i saw the YZF but couldn't work out the capacity. Glad you ride as well BRAAAAAPMM ✊😁👊
Well I have to say that after hearing it run. It sounds exactly like, the one my Dad had... The same put put put, I don't think it's misfiring. Either that or my dad's was misfiring for years. Lol
Hello Matt, you working on the fork truck,takes me back quite a few years, when I was younger I had a second hand MINi VAN the original type this was about 1964, a rust bucket. But you tracing duff spark plugs was just the same 👍👍👍. Best wishes Geoff Lewis, Wales, UK, 🏴🏴🏴
200 american well spent
I thought so too!
Yep, I would have been all over that one!
I used to work in an RV plant around 2006, on the property we had an old Allis-Chalmers forklift that probably came over on the Ark, had a Continental flathead inline six in it. Guy that I worked with had been a lift truck mechanic in a plywood mill and he was the only one in the shop that knew how to work on it, it had to be from the 50s or possibly older (Under the yellow paint it was olive drab so I imagine it was military). Someone had named it "Alice" and of course one of the other guys wrote "IN CHAINS" under it :P
Here is a measurement to check when setting the points, in addition to setting the timing because it varies with the gap. Your father may have an old dell meter in his shop that he will let you use. They are pretty much obsolete these days, but it is a more accurate measurement of the point system.
That milky oil, while slick, will eat up babbet bearings quickly, not that is a concern in this project.
www.howacarworks.com/ignition-system/checking-the-dwell-angle
14:10 oh that sounds sweet!
South paw
Yep the king of roadside finds
I like your videos so 12 or more 25 minute videos on the complete forklift rebuild is fine with me.
there will more in the future!
Great videos. Keep up the good work. Just a tip, the points break the 12 volt circuit to the coil and the collapsing magnetic field in the primary winding of the coil induces the high voltage to be generated in the secondary coil winding. I think you are very talented at all you do.
When your drilling through metal, slow down the speed of the drill. You will find that it will make drilling easier
That fact depends on the drill bits
Smoking drill bits screeching makes better videos LMFAO
@@JimsNBHomestead that all depends of the viewer
You were not kidding. Sounds sweet. Keep plugging away and it will be a great tool for you.
thanks for watching!
I have had nothing but awful experiences with "head gasket sealers" they end up gumming up your cooling channels and making everything worse in my experience. Even totalling the block
yes your rightt ,its that toolbox in a can bs ,the ugly mess and damage that stuff causses is unreal
It's the same thing as tire slime. It's something done by lazy idiots trying to prolong the inevitable. It never works and it turns a simple weekend fix into massive destruction.
@@MrWolfSnack just use a plug lol idk why anyone would use tire slime tbh
Love seeing this come back to life!
thanks for watching!
Ok, when testing spark plugs, you have to touch the metal plug body to ground
He grounded it to the motor, that’s how we all do it here in Canada
Back when I had cars with points and a mechanical distributor, I'd replace the condenser when I'd replace the points...
The cap and rotor don't look too bad on this machine, but they get worn / spark eroded, and sometimes they'll crack and no longer have the right geometry. On some distributors, only the OEM cap & rotor will work - I learned the hard way about aftermarket parts not quite fitting...
The other thing that you've been mentioning is those plug wires - they look like a cut-to-fit kit that never got cut, and the boots may not have been installed properly on the ends...
Your coil looks to be good, so there's not too much to look at with regards to getting a spark.
Oh, and if one plug is bad, you might as well buy a full new set...
motor sound didn't change alot when checking compression on that cylinder either. I'm like alot of the other peeps I don't care if it's 20 video's about it more I will watch
thanks for watching!
I noticed the same thing. I already knew the dead cylinder before he tested for spark.
I had the same forklift during the eighties. Worked well but had problems with the gas valve turned out to be poor water flow through it. Look for frost to form on it in the cold weather usually means low coolant.thanks for the memory.
It frosts up until the motor gets up to temp then melts off
Great job “Musty 1”
not sure I deserve that quite yet lol
Forklift burnouts and "hill climbs" are COOL! I worked in a warehouse with these Allis Chalmers and some Towmotor rigs. Forklift drag races are fun too!
Especially off the pier.
"Lubricity" = "Slicky"
Viscosity
Craig Smith it’s a technical term, “sticky”. I’m serious
Looking forward to hearing it run after this. Change the oil again after a couple of hours and get the rest of the crud out of it and the filter.
Love old gear!
regards,
thats my plan! working on the muffler (or lack there of) today!
That’s definitely just condensation we see it all the time in trucks that never get up to temp.
that seems to be the consensus so i hoping yall are right!
Forklifts can be one of the most useful shop tools . If you take the counter weight off , you can probably do some light lifting around the yard . Most CW sit in a saddle .
Burning liquid propane does also release some water vapor.
I mean, doesn't burning *any* hydrocarbon release CO2 and water vapor?
this wouldn't be a Diesel creek video without a fun fact
Adapt a GM 1 Wire Alternator into it
I think that might be the route I end up going.
I knew when it started while you were checking compression on the rear cylinder that "There's your problem Lady" 😎 The cheapest fork truck on Market Place, might just be your best deal. After all, it does say Allis Chalmers on it. I had 8 Allis tractors at one time. I'm down to 4. 3 that will run, and the CA my dad bought new in 1951 that needs my attention for a good bit. Maybe after the OC46 is up and running, I can spend some time on the CA.
🤙
compressiontest only and always on warm engine, wihtout ignition cables connected to the sparkplugs. Otherwise missfires will build pressure in the enginehousing faking the compressiontest. With the burnouts you got me
$200 is a cheap buy, once you fix the engine and that exhaust, getting closer to a $1000 forklift..
I thing I could already get 1000 for it, 1500-2000 if I get the little stuff fixed
I had the pony on a D-6, 9u series Cat lock up on me. Took it off, took it apart (it needed an overhaul anyway) and found that a big chunk of that rusty crap had fallen from the top cover, right over the oil catch cup that fed the main bearing. It got hot, swelled and stuck it. Had to clamp the bearing in the vise and drive the crank out of it. Didn't even heat mark the crank. A tiny bit of polish with some crocus cloth and it was good. We replaced the bearing, but I might have been able to get away with honing the old one. I tried that later, on an old 3 phase motor, it is currently the best running one in the shop.
Making it so tall ppl can’t play on lifting of forks
im 6'2" so i think its gonn be fine unless an NBA player stops by lol
@@DieselCreek lol!
Condensation can definitely put that much water in the oil. How many years has it been treated to start, run for 5 min or less and shut off for hours? If not days? Without running long enough to get the oil hot enough to purge, the condensation will continue to accumulate. Either run it for at least an hour when in use, or due extra maintenance and oil changes.
Obvious find on the bad plug. Funny how you started with #4 for the compression test and #3 for spark test.
Well done Captain Obvious.
Good job getting it running on all 4.
Thanks for sharing
its always the last one you check!
You could eliminate a lot of that condensation in your oil by converting from that road draft tube to a positive crankcase ventilation system, it's cheap and easy to do.
yes it would be pretty easy!
John Carter is correct for a dab of paints lub. Also, how does the spark advance? With on vacuum can visible, must be centrifugal spark advance. Rotating the rotor, you should be able to feel counter weights moving. Felt disc inside shaft under rotor should get a couple of drops of oil as lub.
Love driveing forklifts there right man for doing up
Old forklift can’t see take some stuff of trucks this year! Some pallets stuff are awesome! Regards Chris
I've always been compelled to fix and build stuff too...must be some sort of illness! That overlong tangle of plug wires is bothering the crap outta me! Nice video!
Yes it’s been bugging me too, just wanted to get the important stuff out of the way before getting to the little stuff
I drove a lot of forklifts in my day, drove one just like that one and it was a great little forklift. Working on day four of binge-watching Diesel creek, is there no end to the videos? Great channel.
Is there a best oil for wet conditions? specialized, cold running, forklift oil? Thinner oil perhaps for cold running? cheap oil that one can afford to change more often? Castrol Magnatec is supposed to cling to metal to help with startup protection, does it also help prevent internal rust by clinging? Not real cheap though.
Funny you mention kindergarten repairs! I brought a knob to school because the play kitchen was missing one! I had forgotten about that one!
awesome! gotta start em young!
I used K seal for my Jetta TDI and it worked likea charm
Now you have replaced the points you need to check the static timing. Find the engine timing mark and you can loosen the distributor body clamp and twist the distributor to set the timing. It sounds a bit late. If you can't find a timing mark try altering it when running and watch if the idle speed goes up or down. Aim for an increase if you find it will but go no further than that. Also make sure the advance bob/weights are free, they are little understood these days and are always neglected. If you can twist the cam slightly with the rotor they are not stuck.
Thoroughly enjoying this stuff Matt. You must have been well-pleased when she fired-up so easily. I've never had any dealing with a propane machine but, for once, I can actually follow what's going on. It seems like a nice, simple machine, with way fewer things to go wrong than a modern version. I'm guessing the word "electronic" won't be included in it's manual.
Only thing I noticed; I would have put a squirt of paint on the bottom of the rollcage pipes after you cut them ~ no point in adding *more* rust to the picture.
Are you planning to finish the job with a coat of paint, or are you going for the "patina" look?
Cheers for now. Stay healthy, wash yer hands.😁
Dougie.
Backing up in time, I decided to re-watch this series. It amazes me, after seeing you do such good work, that you didn't recognize a dead cylinder right away. Bad plug or wire and run on 4 cylinders. Last episode I was yelling at the screen to fix the dead hole.
You do eventually find it, but it took you way too long.
Thanks for sharing
I like the heavy equipment myself to, always working on something so many projects 👍
I know the feeling