Hi Melissa I'm enjoying your channel projects! Just wanted to share a tip I learned the hard way years ago. Make sure you check that your tack cloth is oil or wax free when using water base polycrylic. Nasty bubbles may appear in the finish because an oily residue left on the surface from a tack cloth that will react with the water based poly. I never had a problem with a tack cloth and oil based polyurethane before. If tack cloths package doesn't indicate oil free, then I use a very very damp paper towel from water or a light brush to remove the dust between coats when using polycrylic. Bubbles in poly can dive anyone bonkers so I wanted to share that :)
I’ve found that rolling the polycrylic in sections then using a foam brush covered with the nylon bootie LIGHTLY BRUSH in one continuous stroke over the rolled section. This will eliminate bubbles. Working in sections of rolling then brushing (immediately after rolling) insures a smooth coat. My stained table top looks beautiful, bubble free and smooth!
The nylon booties are used in shoe stores or depts to put on your feet when trying on shoes. I bought mine on, of course, Amazon. The bootie I stretched over a sponge brush, cheap ones at craft stores or home improvement stores. Stretch it so the nylon is smooth and the sponge area of the brush retains its shape. ( Not tight, so that the edge of the sponge brush is straight and free of bunching at corners.). The excess nylon of the bootie is pulled to the backside of the sponge. Hold that excess nylon out of the way when brushing lightly over the polyacrylic. Your strokes need to be fluid, running the length of the surface to which you are applying the finish. I’ve found that, if the bubbles appear, simply go back over lightly. Make sure to do an overlapping stroke as you apply to your project, to blend the polyacrylic, so no line demarcations are noticeable.
I have been getting bubbles when I would do this because of a sponge or hairs because of the brush. A roller is a great idea! Thank you for everything you do 🙏👍
I have a love hate relationship with polycrylic. I love that it cleans up easy and tends to hold its opacity quite well. I hate that it is prone to bubbles. But from my experience there are several ways to get the best results. First use a very soft synthetic highest quality brush. It is a suspension so stirring is necessary but you need to be so gentle as to barely see it moving or bubble on the way. Next apply to brush minimally do not load the brush. Use indirect lighting to see the surface and coverage. Brush it on as perpendicular to the surface and with no hand pressure. You don’t want to drag it along the surface like paint. It should feel like you are barely holding the brush. Lastly any small bubbles can be removed with a safety pin tip. Last tip clean your brushes with Murphy’s oil soap. Happy finishing
I know this is 3 years too late but if it helps someone, well, it'll be worth it ! Humidity play's a huge factor in you getting a nice finish or not... Always read the label for temperature and humidity levels acceptable. Ghosting, or white streaks can appear in your finish, also bubbling and cracking can occur. I've built many guitars using both Polyies and Lacquer finishes, and have learned to listen to the manufactures advice when applying. I could of saved a lot of time and $$$$
I have not had good results at all with bristle brushing, foam brushing or rolling, or wiping Polycrylic. It always looks like crap for me. But spraying -- that's where I can get it to look awesome!!! One tip I did learn from someone here on YT is to really stir the polycrylic well -- like 5 to 10 minutes this YT'ber said. Now, I don't do that long, but I do stir for between 1 and 2 minutes first and have great results spraying that mix. For anyone who's interested in the spraying "howto", I typically spray the Polycrylic as is (not thinned) in an HVLP sprayer with a 1.4 mm nozzle @ 30 psi. Flow is about 1.5 turns out from fully closed. Atomization pressure is maybe a 1/4 turn off from fully open. Fan pattern is about 3.5 inches. This produces a very fine mist. I'll overlap about 75% of each pass, and when I'm done, the whole thing dries within 3 to 10 min depending upon how much I lingered with my passes. I'll do usually 3 coats and sand with 600 to 800 grit sandpaper in between (the recommended 220 is way too aggressive). The result is a very smooth and uniform surface after each coat, but especially after that third one.
You are such a cutie, I love your sweet personality, energy and work ethic. Here's some tips: Use the roller to apply your product to a surface (poly, paint etc), then 'back-brush' with a high-quality brush to smooth and pick up drips, especially around spindles, corners and sides. I literally have a detail roller (foam or hair) in one hand and my brush in the other when I start out doing this type of application. I'd allow a longer dry time to assure the corners are cured before sanding - 24 hrs with a urethane and 3-6 hrs with an acrylic, in most cases. And with finish trim like a handrail, I would recommend using a sanding sponge for a more even and detail surface prep. You'll have much better control and feel for the pressure and area you are sanding when using a sponge - that's the thin, pliable-type sponge with foam on one side for your fingers to grip and the abrasive on the other side, not the sanding 'block' when doing detail trim and contours. Plus, the sponge will protect your pretty hands better. Be careful that your 'tack cloth' isn't loaded with too much beeswax or even sap, and leaves a residue. I've gone to a lightly damp wiping cloth or microfiber for most of my acrylic (water-based) dust/clean prep, and using compressed air for the initial blow-off of dust. If painting with oils or lacquer, I'll use denatured alcohol or thinner as a cleaning wipe, too. Best of luck!
Thanks for the explanation, I sprayed polyurethane on a counter top… but this oil base material is better rolled on. I should have used lacquer if I was to use a pump. Anyway preciate you now I’ll just sand and roll the 3rd coat and call it done.
Hi-. I saw you do a video on using epoxy for a kitchen countertop... And, why that didn't work so well. But- on the epoxy, you used heat to get rid of epoxy bubbles. I wonder if heat would get rid of poly bubbles?? -hmmm
Minnesotan here who’s watched soooo many of your videos, I now feel like we are friends😂 my polycrylic (on 2nd coat) is looking super patchy, following your awesome instructions... will this clear up? Ideas on why or how to fix? Of course my 1st project is an 84”x42” table so perhaps I need a different application process due to fast dry time? Ugh, so worried all the sanding/shellack prime/sanding/chalk painting will be for naught 🤞🏻We love your channel🙌you are what this world needs more of!
Hi. Do you re-use the same foam roller after it dries? Or change the foam roller for each polyurethane coat? Thank you. Also, I've heard some recommend to use craft paper to very lightly sand/polish the final coat. I will have to experiment with that.
I really dislike tact cloth!! it's sticky residue gets in the way of my life. sticks to my hands and leaves marks all over especially on chalk paint. I've had to resend too many times and ive learned my lesson that stuff isn't my friend.. 😊 I'm learning about poly, what I've learned is that adding a touch of the paint color you used to the poly and mix well the final finish is much better especially on dark color paints the poly leaves a haze after a couple coats. and also water based poly dries so fast it barely has time to level when using a roller method. but im with you I believe this method works great in certain environments. I don't think this would be an option in the hot dry states as it just dries too fast.
Great video! Question: if you have just stained a piece in the past 24 hours, do you still need to sand it before the first coat of Polycrylic? I understand that subsequent coats require sanding. Thanks!
Melissa, thanks for this. We’ve been struggling over a table that’s top was veneered. Never having done this before, we stripped the veneer off using an iron and wet towel but some chipping occurred in the process to the layer of wood under the veneer. I sanded and then painted with chalk paint but bubbles occurred on the paint where the chips were. So I sanded again, repainted etc about ther times and then my wife didn’t like the color. So started over but now at the final stages of poly and after two or three coats and looking better we still can see roller marks or uneven application. I wish we had seen this video a few weeks ago, it probably would have eliminated a couple of coats. Do you wax when finished?
Is this product only for painted wood?? I've just finished painting my bathroom ceramic tiles with a satin finish paint; white for the walls and black for the floor.. I'm looking for a protective, clear sealant for the floor at least, not overly fussed about the walls..
Thanks for the info, Mel. My staining turned out great, but I was panicking at the top coat phase of my little project. Your video came in clutch. Also, I'm curious, what was that grunt at the 6:16 mark?
I was not sure I understood correctly if when rolling out bubbles do I need a clean foam roller again? Are this rollers in ur opinion the best to use or is a brush or a soft no foam roller just as good?I was planning on using a brush but after watching you I am thinking I should use a foam roller instead.if I choose to use foam would it still with with a brush in difficult areas to get to with a roller? Thanks for any suggestion
Enjoy your videos, thanks. Please give tips on the easiest way to get inbetween those slats like on a rocking chair and in all the seams without getting those drips and runs.. would a rag application be best in the situation's?
Are you using a water based polycrylic? And can I use a foam roller for that ? I’ve heard you shouldn’t but you can if it’s oil based? Please let me know haha.
So… I have a painted project I thought I needed to use polyurethane Because the paint is like an oil based furniture paint.. now it sounds like I should use poly acrylic? Can someone please help me with this…? I don’t want a weird color on it after the poly dries
I'm pretty sure using a roller like that is going to introduce an insane amount of bubbles into your finish. Having bubbles enter your finish is what you need to avoid the most when you're varnishing. I guess if you don't care about the quality of the finish that you're making then it doesn't really matter, but if you do, I definitely would not do it this way.
![Why You Should NOT Do Epoxy Resin Countertops [Do THIS Instead]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Qu6FCG6lIZw/mqdefault.jpg)
Hi Melissa I'm enjoying your channel projects! Just wanted to share a tip I learned the hard way years ago. Make sure you check that your tack cloth is oil or wax free when using water base polycrylic. Nasty bubbles may appear in the finish because an oily residue left on the surface from a tack cloth that will react with the water based poly. I never had a problem with a tack cloth and oil based polyurethane before. If tack cloths package doesn't indicate oil free, then I use a very very damp paper towel from water or a light brush to remove the dust between coats when using polycrylic. Bubbles in poly can dive anyone bonkers so I wanted to share that :)
I use a brush. No air bubbles to mess around with after. Self levels. Nice smooth finish. Just need to sand properly in-between coats.
THANK YOU so much for this! I’d tried brushes, sponges, even a sock on my hand. This is the best it’s looked! Thank you, thank you, thank you!
I’ve found that rolling the polycrylic in sections then using a foam brush covered with the nylon bootie LIGHTLY BRUSH in one continuous stroke over the rolled section. This will eliminate bubbles. Working in sections of rolling then brushing (immediately after rolling) insures a smooth coat. My stained table top looks beautiful, bubble free and smooth!
@susannahfunk what is a nylon bootie and how do you cover the foam brush?
The nylon booties are used in shoe stores or depts to put on your feet when trying on shoes. I bought mine on, of course, Amazon. The bootie I stretched over a sponge brush, cheap ones at craft stores or home improvement stores. Stretch it so the nylon is smooth and the sponge area of the brush retains its shape. ( Not tight, so that the edge of the sponge brush is straight and free of bunching at corners.). The excess nylon of the bootie is pulled to the backside of the sponge. Hold that excess nylon out of the way when brushing lightly over the polyacrylic. Your strokes need to be fluid, running the length of the surface to which you are applying the finish. I’ve found that, if the bubbles appear, simply go back over lightly. Make sure to do an overlapping stroke as you apply to your project, to blend the polyacrylic, so no line demarcations are noticeable.
I have been getting bubbles when I would do this because of a sponge or hairs because of the brush. A roller is a great idea! Thank you for everything you do 🙏👍
I have a love hate relationship with polycrylic. I love that it cleans up easy and tends to hold its opacity quite well. I hate that it is prone to bubbles. But from my experience there are several ways to get the best results. First use a very soft synthetic highest quality brush. It is a suspension so stirring is necessary but you need to be so gentle as to barely see it moving or bubble on the way. Next apply to brush minimally do not load the brush. Use indirect lighting to see the surface and coverage. Brush it on as perpendicular to the surface and with no hand pressure. You don’t want to drag it along the surface like paint. It should feel like you are barely holding the brush. Lastly any small bubbles can be removed with a safety pin tip. Last tip clean your brushes with Murphy’s oil soap. Happy finishing
I know this is 3 years too late but if it helps someone, well, it'll be worth it !
Humidity play's a huge factor in you getting a nice finish or not... Always read the label for temperature and humidity levels acceptable.
Ghosting, or white streaks can appear in your finish, also bubbling and cracking can occur. I've built many guitars using both Polyies and Lacquer finishes, and have learned to listen to the manufactures advice when applying. I could of saved a lot of time and $$$$
I have not had good results at all with bristle brushing, foam brushing or rolling, or wiping Polycrylic. It always looks like crap for me.
But spraying -- that's where I can get it to look awesome!!!
One tip I did learn from someone here on YT is to really stir the polycrylic well -- like 5 to 10 minutes this YT'ber said. Now, I don't do that long, but I do stir for between 1 and 2 minutes first and have great results spraying that mix.
For anyone who's interested in the spraying "howto", I typically spray the Polycrylic as is (not thinned) in an HVLP sprayer with a 1.4 mm nozzle @ 30 psi. Flow is about 1.5 turns out from fully closed. Atomization pressure is maybe a 1/4 turn off from fully open. Fan pattern is about 3.5 inches. This produces a very fine mist. I'll overlap about 75% of each pass, and when I'm done, the whole thing dries within 3 to 10 min depending upon how much I lingered with my passes. I'll do usually 3 coats and sand with 600 to 800 grit sandpaper in between (the recommended 220 is way too aggressive). The result is a very smooth and uniform surface after each coat, but especially after that third one.
You are such a cutie, I love your sweet personality, energy and work ethic. Here's some tips: Use the roller to apply your product to a surface (poly, paint etc), then 'back-brush' with a high-quality brush to smooth and pick up drips, especially around spindles, corners and sides. I literally have a detail roller (foam or hair) in one hand and my brush in the other when I start out doing this type of application. I'd allow a longer dry time to assure the corners are cured before sanding - 24 hrs with a urethane and 3-6 hrs with an acrylic, in most cases. And with finish trim like a handrail, I would recommend using a sanding sponge for a more even and detail surface prep. You'll have much better control and feel for the pressure and area you are sanding when using a sponge - that's the thin, pliable-type sponge with foam on one side for your fingers to grip and the abrasive on the other side, not the sanding 'block' when doing detail trim and contours. Plus, the sponge will protect your pretty hands better. Be careful that your 'tack cloth' isn't loaded with too much beeswax or even sap, and leaves a residue. I've gone to a lightly damp wiping cloth or microfiber for most of my acrylic (water-based) dust/clean prep, and using compressed air for the initial blow-off of dust. If painting with oils or lacquer, I'll use denatured alcohol or thinner as a cleaning wipe, too. Best of luck!
Favorite new channel on UA-cam ❤️
Thanks for the explanation, I sprayed polyurethane on a counter top… but this oil base material is better rolled on. I should have used lacquer if I was to use a pump. Anyway preciate you now I’ll just sand and roll the 3rd coat and call it done.
Hi-. I saw you do a video on using epoxy for a kitchen countertop... And, why that didn't work so well.
But- on the epoxy, you used heat to get rid of epoxy bubbles. I wonder if heat would get rid of poly bubbles?? -hmmm
Thank you. Going to use your methods..feel much more confident!
Minnesotan here who’s watched soooo many of your videos, I now feel like we are friends😂 my polycrylic (on 2nd coat) is looking super patchy, following your awesome instructions... will this clear up? Ideas on why or how to fix? Of course my 1st project is an 84”x42” table so perhaps I need a different application process due to fast dry time? Ugh, so worried all the sanding/shellack prime/sanding/chalk painting will be for naught 🤞🏻We love your channel🙌you are what this world needs more of!
Excellent videos. You explain the steps very well.
Hi. Do you re-use the same foam roller after it dries? Or change the foam roller for each polyurethane coat? Thank you. Also, I've heard some recommend to use craft paper to very lightly sand/polish the final coat. I will have to experiment with that.
I want to say thanks 🙏,because I was confused with this two products
I really dislike tact cloth!! it's sticky residue gets in the way of my life. sticks to my hands and leaves marks all over especially on chalk paint. I've had to resend too many times and ive learned my lesson that stuff isn't my friend.. 😊 I'm learning about poly, what I've learned is that adding a touch of the paint color you used to the poly and mix well the final finish is much better especially on dark color paints the poly leaves a haze after a couple coats. and also water based poly dries so fast it barely has time to level when using a roller method. but im with you I believe this method works great in certain environments. I don't think this would be an option in the hot dry states as it just dries too fast.
Very nice, you make it look so simple... thanks again Melissa and keep them coming!
Great video! Question: if you have just stained a piece in the past 24 hours, do you still need to sand it before the first coat of Polycrylic? I understand that subsequent coats require sanding. Thanks!
Nope, first coat of poly doesn’t need sanding beforehand
@@WelcometotheWoodsBlog thanks!!
Melissa, thanks for this. We’ve been struggling over a table that’s top was veneered. Never having done this before, we stripped the veneer off using an iron and wet towel but some chipping occurred in the process to the layer of wood under the veneer. I sanded and then painted with chalk paint but bubbles occurred on the paint where the chips were. So I sanded again, repainted etc about ther times and then my wife didn’t like the color. So started over but now at the final stages of poly and after two or three coats and looking better we still can see roller marks or uneven application. I wish we had seen this video a few weeks ago, it probably would have eliminated a couple of coats. Do you wax when finished?
Is this product only for painted wood??
I've just finished painting my bathroom ceramic tiles with a satin finish paint; white for the walls and black for the floor..
I'm looking for a protective, clear sealant for the floor at least, not overly fussed about the walls..
Thanks for the info, Mel. My staining turned out great, but I was panicking at the top coat phase of my little project. Your video came in clutch. Also, I'm curious, what was that grunt at the 6:16 mark?
The camera guy perhaps lol
Thanks one of the best videos I've seen.
Good good video. Thank you about to coat a little farmhouse bed. This will help
Just bought premium unfinished Maple kitchen cabinets. Do I have to stain them before applying Minwax Polycrylic Topcoat- Clear Gloss?
amazing,,, keep it up, god bless you
You are awesome! I love the channel!
Thanks ! Was very helpful for me.
Microfiber naps are supposed to be best they dont leave air bubbles and finishes smoothly. Foam rollers are for oil based products.
Hi! Do i have to wait for paint to be cured before applying this? I have a water based polyurethane i purchased.
Great video!
Great helpful video thanks
I was not sure I understood correctly if when rolling out bubbles do I need a clean foam roller again? Are this rollers in ur opinion the best to use or is a brush or a soft no foam roller just as good?I was planning on using a brush but after watching you I am thinking I should use a foam roller instead.if I choose to use foam would it still with with a brush in difficult areas to get to with a roller? Thanks for any suggestion
Beautiful paint job !!!! Handrails and Fingernails !!!!!!!!!!!!
Enjoy your videos, thanks. Please give tips on the easiest way to get inbetween those slats like on a rocking chair and in all the seams without getting those drips and runs.. would a rag application be best in the situation's?
Spraying paint is best in those kinds of applications
Good advice. Need this.
You're pretty handy. Nice vid.
Thanks this was so helpful
Are you using a water based polycrylic? And can I use a foam roller for that ? I’ve heard you shouldn’t but you can if it’s oil based? Please let me know haha.
I am, many people don't like to use a roller because it can create bubbles if you go too fast or don't back roll
So…
I have a painted project
I thought I needed to use polyurethane
Because the paint is like an oil based furniture paint.. now it sounds like I should use poly acrylic?
Can someone please help me with this…?
I don’t want a weird color on it after the poly dries
Good video , thanks for sharing
I have 400 sandpaper will that work
je comprend pas mais ça à l'air cool
Good work
great stuff
Pretty (good job)
Lol, I was looking this up earlier today.
You've got construction in your blood👍
You only show the aplicacion of poly on the hand rail. Did you poly the rest of the staircase? How about the underside of the rail?
Yes you seal everything
@@WelcometotheWoodsBlog Thank you so much for taking the time to answer. I love your videos, they both informativa and entertaing. Keep them comming
Hi Melissa,
I so appreciate your helpful tips,
Thanks for sharing.
Nice 😊
Good 👍👍
top!
I'm pretty sure using a roller like that is going to introduce an insane amount of bubbles into your finish. Having bubbles enter your finish is what you need to avoid the most when you're varnishing. I guess if you don't care about the quality of the finish that you're making then it doesn't really matter, but if you do, I definitely would not do it this way.
👌
How are you all hope is well
👍👍👍
How to poly turned legs with grooves in portions
Ilove youuuu touuu
beauty!
Brush > foam
Hi
My name is . Ilove you tou imam indonesia
beautiful eyes
Good. make more effective to the video give subtitle also. item by item ..
noooooob. you are supposed to brush poly to avoid all those bubbles. Or spray it for the best results
... and then you get brush strokes. The stuff is a PITA to work with regardless of skill level.
My poly instructions specifically say no sponge applicators.
*Literally 1% people , who read this massege,,"" I pray may your parents live more than 100 years with good health* ... 55
Debreeze
*Literally 1% people , who read this massege,,"" I pray may your parents live more than 100 years with good health* ... 78
I dig these videos, but what's up with all the black, is she married to Tim Burton?
It's my fav color ;)