How to Make Better Timelapses
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- Опубліковано 19 сер 2018
- Full article: fstoppers.com/education/does-...
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In this short photography tutorial, we show you how you can improve your timelapses by taking long shutter exposures and exporting them in Adobe Premiere. By using a Polar Pro 10 stop neutral density filter, Patrick Hall increases his shutter from 1/3rd of a second to 2 full seconds when shooting in bright sunlight.
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Don't bother dragging+dropping a large array of files. Just do a File > Import, and select the first frame of the sequence. Make sure the 'Image Sequence' box is checked at the bottom, and you are good to go --It's a single asset.
this.
That.
but can you change the "1 image per frame" setting with that technique?
@@evanoshea9506 yes
Yes that's easy than this
And i think premiere pro now only has 2 frames as the lowest
Although I was just mildly curious, and don't have the gear, I was captivated by the truly professional presentation by Patrick Hall.. Even though I don't have the exact camera or software, I was able to follow along and understand the concept as he showed and explained it in a thoroughly professional manner. He spoke clear English with ease and clear command of the subject. I really enjoyed this video. I learned things. Five stars.
You can use LR Timelapse for post production. This helps to fix the flickering and uses raw files. All in all in helps you to create better timelapses.
Yes definitely but it does require a lot more steps and requires you shoot in raw. Sometimes when we travel for weeks at a time and shoot dozens of timelapses, we don't have the server space to store 10,000+ raw files for timelapses. If you can remove the flicker at the time of capture, you shouldn't need to shoot raw for most of your timelapses but LR Timelapse is great for when you do need smoothing.
To save yourself a little trouble, you can import the entire set of timelapse images into Premiere as one single clip by going to: File > Import. Choose the first image in the sequence. Make sure the "Image Sequence" box is checked and then click Open. Now you won't have to copy and paste attributes to each frame and then nest them as they're already one clip. You can also go into Preferences > Media beforehand and set the Indeterminate Media Timebase to 23.976fps or whatever you like so it will automatically set the clip to that framerate on import. *Note that for this to work, all of the image files must be named sequentially.
Great tutorial guys! Thanks!!
If you shoot high res images that are more than 1080 or 4k, you will have to resize the footage anyways. Also, since your photos will probably be 2:3 or 4:5 aspect ratio, and video is 16:9, you are going to have to tweak the final timelapse to fit into your sequence anyways. The import option is def a way to do it but I've just always copied and pasted the jpegs so that I can easily fix any errors and see each individual frame easier.
Right, you will have to resize, but you can do it to the whole clip at once instead of copying and pasting the attribute to many and then nesting. Also, this way, if you decide to tweak the size again, you haven't lost the edges due to nesting.
I agree. Using the import as sequence is much easier. I think you are better off editing images in Lightroom/LRTimelapse first to fix any flicker.
@@FStoppers yes because you are not doing it the most optimal way
Or shoot with LUMIX cameras which do it all onboard, giving brilliant 4K anywhere, ready to download.
Timelapses were such a struggle for me. I definitely needed this. Thank you for reading my mind :)
Hello to my steadicam master 😊😊😊
You are my Idol when it comes to using Steadicam. Thank you for all the teachings in UA-cam 😊
Been working as a professional photographer for 20 years, this video proves that one can NEVER stop learning. Thanks for the video. Exicted to try this next week!
Joking? After 20 years you didn´t know you can exposure longer when using a ND filter? Or what excatly do you mean?
So many little tips and tricks throughout the video. Great job!
Thanks for taking the time to make this. A lot of great information here.
Lumix Cameras do this so well and easily in video with low shutter speeds as well as photo mode.
I import the jpegs as a sequence in another way, which I consider simpler: Just use Command+I, look for the folder where you have your files, click on the first image, then check the box on the left low corner of hat dialog box, and just "Import as a sequence". Voila! All your jpegs are imported as a sequence. Thanks for this video, I have learned a few things that were new to me!
You guys alwys put such an amazing amount of work into your videos. Really great stuff.
Good info - glad I have a career history in tech - nice to combine all the tech with the latest & greatest camera's today
Curious how you'd deal with changing light levels? The only way I can come up with is to do it completely in post production and keeping the exposures slightly underexposed to avoid overexposed loss.
shoot in Av mode in this case, but then you'll have to remove the flicker (I recommend the LRTimelapse for that)
What a amazing video.. thank you so much for talking through this.. I just learnt so much!
Loved the explanation and I learned something new today about the flickering issue.
Best behind the scene out there yet. 9/10👌🏾
These tutorials are so helpful! I just uploaded my first ever timelapse video (about the city of Bern in Switzerland) and without the help from these tutorials i could not have done it. Thanks!
I was about to say that thumbnail shot looked amazing and glad to have seen it at the end.
I learned a lot from your video. Thank you. Most appreciated.
Ha!!! Now that's awesome! Never thought about making timelapses with a 2s exposure!! Looks so cool! Can't wait to test that!
I don't know about Nikon, but with Canon you can choose your aperture then press and hold the DOF button and twist the lens from the contacts to lock in the aperture. This is the method I use for all my time lapses & AF system lenses to cut down on the aperture flicker..
Confirmed, also if your cannon dslr don`t have built in intervalometer google for Magic Lantern, must have thing
Our Canon shooters in the office confirm this too but is this an actual feature or is it more or less a hack that locks the aperture?
Hack. aka :Lens twist hack. Also, don't twist to much. Just enough so the contact are no aligned." I don't want anyone to twist to much and drop there lens"
Exactly. ML is a must have for all Canon shooters
ML stopped development for the 5Dm3 at firmware 1.2.3, it isn't very useful to those who updated to the most recent (1.3.5)
one of the best practical videos. thank you
Its nice that the "how-to" videos are back!
Thank you very much for what you .ve done ....absolutely brilliant
That tip on the aperture makes sense. I wonder if the new Z series cameras pre compose TL at 4K? Another technique is to shoot RAW and import to Lightroom and tweak before spitting out JPGs. But thanks, this is great.
If you hold CTRL and click and drag you can change the scale values in premiere more smooth to get the perfect value that you want.
Excellent tips, thanks very much, I wish I lived in such amazing looking places
Great stuff, thank you Im new in photography and I think I learn a lot from your video.
Very cool. I didn't know about the aperture causing the flicker. I do lots of timelapses with an 8mm manual aperture lens, so I've never noticed this.
guys , you are the best on youtube and probably in the whole universe!!!!
Thanks, have been looking for exactly this. Learned more than with the previous 10 videos ;)
Sorry if this has already been asked, but how long should you set the intervalometer to pause between frames, and how should this depend on the type of scene (traffic, clouds, etc.)?
I found this easy to watch and very helpful thank you
5:10 You can stop the camera changing the appeture by disengaging the lens slightly so the camera no longer controls the lens.
Great tips! Thanks so much for sharing!
If you shoot raw, bring your sequence into an album in Lightroom, apply your edits, and then export the sequence and render the video in premiere or ae. I like working with the full frame edits first and then downscaling. Haven’t done it in a while and need to revisit the workflow. LR timelapse is also a gnarly Lr plug-in you can use to apply key framing to high res time lapses across a series of images in Lr. These produce very nice applications for light changes over time (think applying an exposure gradient to a sunrise scene)
that's the best software!
Thanks bro for your complete tutorial!
Have to shoot time lapse for work this weekend. Great info.
One thing I'm wondering, what camera did you use to film yourself in this video? It's crisp!!
I've been to that area many times. It's neat to be able to recognize where you're shooting.
Where is it? Charleston maybe?
Can you do a video on a sunset time-lapse? With the light changing so much from the time you start till the time you end I'm not sure how I should lock in my settings.
Great video....love the fade from magic hour to black. If you shot at 30/frames/sec would it look better? And knowing after effects...you can also add motion blur after the fact to a sequence to get the streaking effect.
Really good video, thank you. I'll be doing this from now on.
I think on a Panasonic I can use EFC to eliminate the aperture flicker. Is that right?
Very good video :) Just wondering if you could share your experience with the eventual colour cast with Polar Pro ND1000PL. I'm using B+W 77mm SC 110 ND 3.0 Filter and the colour shift is quite noticeable :(
I grew up in Charleston. Miss that town but not the traffic! Great video...
Hey Patrick, what tripod was that, that you put your camera on? It looked sturdier than any of the five tripods that I have. Yet it looks kind of light.
Why not use the import image sequence in Premiere pro, it saves having to nest and saves a lot of time on export.
Are you always using 2 sec. as shutter time regardless of distance, or do you use a different time for filming at longer distance with a tele lens?
How do you set the aperture correctly for the last timelapse (sunset) to get evenly lit shots? Do you put it in AV mode? Or change the aperture manually? Or do you twist a Nd filter?
thanks for the video ... helpful tips to get higher quality outputs.
this was so informational... absolutely love it!!! Thank you!!!
To get around the flickering without using ND-filters, you can set the aperture you want and hold in the "aperture preview" button while you loosen the lens just a little bit so you break the electronic contact to the camera. But don't loosen it too much, be careful =)
Thanks for the tips!
Great video, thanks for the helpful tips!
Nice video. I don't know Premiere - but to minimize the flicker from f-stop variation - couldn't you clean up the alignments etc and then copy all the images to a timeline above the source one, offset by 1 image to the right can have it pull averages between the 2 images for the output ? So much of it would be constant in your landscape, it would seem to be a way to reduce that flicker effect some ? Anyone ?
On canon, to fix the flicker issue, hold the aperture DOF button and unscrew the lens slightly. Oldest trick in the book. Idk about Nikon.
Haha I use that for reverse ring macro
Nice video, good job! One issue was accord to me. My pictures in the timeline are like 4 seconds each, even if I changed the time line setting to 1 frame its still plays each pic for 4 seconds. Do you know how to fix it? Thanks
this was a wonderful video, thank you for making it ; much success to you
Thanks useful.BTW just add a "moving time lapse" capable gimbal like the crane plus and it is also rotating or "moving"! Look cool.
this was an incredible tutorial
Great video .... but how are you able to obtain the great blur of ur gonna do a day yo night or night to day , with the 10 stop Nd?
Converging lines is NOT caused by using a wide angle lens. It is caused by having the film plane at an angle from vertical.
That was cool - I live on the flight path to my airport, so planes pass close to my house - maybe 500 metres away at 700 meters altitude - and I would like to try a time-lapse of the landing lights at night. The planes approach my house not head-on but close enough.
What settings should I use for a night-time time-lapse of the planes? Thanks
That last time lapse was sweet. I gotta get back out at night again
thank you for the effort and the sharing. thumbs up.
Interesting... any way to do this or close to it on iPhone XS with filmic pro app?
I've learned so much from fstoppers, I feel I have to give something back: LRTimelapse->Lightroom->After Effects. That is the optimal path. Not the fastest though, that's why you use jpegs, I suppose. And the f22 thing...I'd advice to avoid such extremes because of sensor dust and diffraction. Diffraction can be ignored because the final product is video, but sensor dust sometimes cannot be masked out in post. Another advantage using After Effects or any similar editor is that you can mask the jarring sea waves that annoy us and add extra motion blur to soften them without messing with the sky. That's my experience after 4 years and around 500 timelapses for various short and long film productions.
Thank you so much for this video! It helped me a lot, I was wondering what that weird flicker was in my time lapse videos because I was shooting at f10+ for scenery. Cheers! :)
Hi great video!! Is the zoom effect done on post? Or in the camera? Thank you!!
"I'm going to go ahead and put my camera into intervalometer mode"
*cries in a7riii*
Jake Clark you can get an app
@@ginbarker2062 They removed the app for a7iii
@@liam4184 I use open memories tweak, it has every feature this guy just said .
Wait for the new firmware in March :)
Gin Barker der
oh really hepfull.... like everything about tym laps in single video
What is the ball head you are using? I am looking to upgrade my tripod and ball bead.
We love how to's! Excellent content!
This is a superb tutorial.
Thanks for the tips :)
Is there an inexpensive camera that can do this leaf shutter kind of timelapse mode?
I find using back button focus much easier than switching to manual focus to lock the focus on the shutter button
Yeah thats an option too. I prefer focus on the shutter button and AE/AF lock button to lock the focus button when pressed. You can use any method you'd like though as long as your AF isn't engaging throughout the capture.
@@FStoppers I have them on both. shutter button and back button for af. Lol
Love it，learn more about timelapse
Excellent tutorial!
My D500 doesn't silently pull the images. I think I have it set up as you did but am I doing something wrong?
That's why you always ramp the speed % down during editing the final video file. 70% is a good place to start. I've gone down to 60% with great results on hyperlapses.
Very informative, thanks for sharing
Thank you for this!
Cheers, having a long exposure to make a timelapse better didn't occur to me
Thanks, very helpfulll!
Whats a good interval for sunset and sunrise? I need a 5 - 10 second video of it.
Thanks Fstoppers
This is great, thank you! Also, amazed at the audio quality. What lav mic were you using?
Sennheiser G3 -P
If I shoot it with the widest aperture , how will I get properly focused and deep image ?
Very informative.. Excellent work 👏
Please suggest best remote shutter release for sony a7iii and if possible make a video on it
What would be the effect/difference of a complete timelapse using 24fps versus 30fps?
Is electronic shutter going to give me no flicker if I use it on my gh5?
Good information and very useful for either video or photo.
exellent explanation !!!
Nice content very in depth. Thanks hope i can apply it as well. Great job 😃
what if you have to timelapse from day to night? there you have to expose 10, 15, 30 seconds? or what about cloud movement there?
Thank you for this.
beautiful work ❤️ learnt something interesting