Although I was just mildly curious, and don't have the gear, I was captivated by the truly professional presentation by Patrick Hall.. Even though I don't have the exact camera or software, I was able to follow along and understand the concept as he showed and explained it in a thoroughly professional manner. He spoke clear English with ease and clear command of the subject. I really enjoyed this video. I learned things. Five stars.
Don't bother dragging+dropping a large array of files. Just do a File > Import, and select the first frame of the sequence. Make sure the 'Image Sequence' box is checked at the bottom, and you are good to go --It's a single asset.
Been working as a professional photographer for 20 years, this video proves that one can NEVER stop learning. Thanks for the video. Exicted to try this next week!
To save yourself a little trouble, you can import the entire set of timelapse images into Premiere as one single clip by going to: File > Import. Choose the first image in the sequence. Make sure the "Image Sequence" box is checked and then click Open. Now you won't have to copy and paste attributes to each frame and then nest them as they're already one clip. You can also go into Preferences > Media beforehand and set the Indeterminate Media Timebase to 23.976fps or whatever you like so it will automatically set the clip to that framerate on import. *Note that for this to work, all of the image files must be named sequentially. Great tutorial guys! Thanks!!
If you shoot high res images that are more than 1080 or 4k, you will have to resize the footage anyways. Also, since your photos will probably be 2:3 or 4:5 aspect ratio, and video is 16:9, you are going to have to tweak the final timelapse to fit into your sequence anyways. The import option is def a way to do it but I've just always copied and pasted the jpegs so that I can easily fix any errors and see each individual frame easier.
Right, you will have to resize, but you can do it to the whole clip at once instead of copying and pasting the attribute to many and then nesting. Also, this way, if you decide to tweak the size again, you haven't lost the edges due to nesting.
You can use LR Timelapse for post production. This helps to fix the flickering and uses raw files. All in all in helps you to create better timelapses.
Yes definitely but it does require a lot more steps and requires you shoot in raw. Sometimes when we travel for weeks at a time and shoot dozens of timelapses, we don't have the server space to store 10,000+ raw files for timelapses. If you can remove the flicker at the time of capture, you shouldn't need to shoot raw for most of your timelapses but LR Timelapse is great for when you do need smoothing.
If you shoot raw, bring your sequence into an album in Lightroom, apply your edits, and then export the sequence and render the video in premiere or ae. I like working with the full frame edits first and then downscaling. Haven’t done it in a while and need to revisit the workflow. LR timelapse is also a gnarly Lr plug-in you can use to apply key framing to high res time lapses across a series of images in Lr. These produce very nice applications for light changes over time (think applying an exposure gradient to a sunrise scene)
I import the jpegs as a sequence in another way, which I consider simpler: Just use Command+I, look for the folder where you have your files, click on the first image, then check the box on the left low corner of hat dialog box, and just "Import as a sequence". Voila! All your jpegs are imported as a sequence. Thanks for this video, I have learned a few things that were new to me!
I don't know about Nikon, but with Canon you can choose your aperture then press and hold the DOF button and twist the lens from the contacts to lock in the aperture. This is the method I use for all my time lapses & AF system lenses to cut down on the aperture flicker..
Hack. aka :Lens twist hack. Also, don't twist to much. Just enough so the contact are no aligned." I don't want anyone to twist to much and drop there lens"
I've learned so much from fstoppers, I feel I have to give something back: LRTimelapse->Lightroom->After Effects. That is the optimal path. Not the fastest though, that's why you use jpegs, I suppose. And the f22 thing...I'd advice to avoid such extremes because of sensor dust and diffraction. Diffraction can be ignored because the final product is video, but sensor dust sometimes cannot be masked out in post. Another advantage using After Effects or any similar editor is that you can mask the jarring sea waves that annoy us and add extra motion blur to soften them without messing with the sky. That's my experience after 4 years and around 500 timelapses for various short and long film productions.
For the right exposure/sweetspot I will aply the same rule for video exposure. 180 degree shutter. If you want photos every 2 seconds, the right exposure will be half that time: 1 second.
Very nice video BUT to ease your workflow here is a little tips : Instead of importing the way you've done it, just go to import, search for your pictures and then tick the "import as sequence" in the explorer. I've found out that it's much powerful, the playback is way better and seems that the computer likes it better this way ! :)
That tip on the aperture makes sense. I wonder if the new Z series cameras pre compose TL at 4K? Another technique is to shoot RAW and import to Lightroom and tweak before spitting out JPGs. But thanks, this is great.
In a pure landscape scenery without any moving cars or people - what do you think is the right shutter speed for the clouds? Would you also go with 2 seconds? Maybe clouds are working better with a faster shutter speed?
These tutorials are so helpful! I just uploaded my first ever timelapse video (about the city of Bern in Switzerland) and without the help from these tutorials i could not have done it. Thanks!
So lets say I'm a newbie with an A6000 and the free version of Capture One could I get a similar (emphasis on "similar") effect by using the lowest shutter speed offered and an ND filter? *note: just careful how i spend my $$ the first year shooting so that's why I'm going basic on the bells and whistles.* Thanks!
I shoot timelapse astrophotography and I use Qdslr and LRTimelapse, Yeah the pro license for LRT is around $300 bucks but I do post through Lightroom and LRT, you have WAY more control over your images. The graphic interface in LRT is really easy and brilliant. I've processed 6000+ RAW files for double Holy Grails this way. Yes you need a really fast machine and lots of storage to play in this league but the results are uncompromising and smooth.
That's why you always ramp the speed % down during editing the final video file. 70% is a good place to start. I've gone down to 60% with great results on hyperlapses.
At 4:35 into the video you said that you were shooting with an electronic shutter in your lens - is that right, are there dslr lenses that have electronic shutter in them or did you mean electronic shutter in the camera?
I am wondering if you set 2s for exposure time but in interval timer you set also 2s, is this not too short (in interval timer)? Because I heared one should give the camera more time for saving procedure after each shot etc.
use daVinci to remove Flicker... works quite well import into davinci not as single shots but rather as image-sequence. this way you don't have to worry about them being in the right order and everything else. simply open the import window and select the first frame and then check the "as image sequence" (or alike) checkbox
Curious how you'd deal with changing light levels? The only way I can come up with is to do it completely in post production and keeping the exposures slightly underexposed to avoid overexposed loss.
Wow thanks, 2 second shutter speed is golden pro tip for almost any timelapse. I've been trying for years to get it right, shooting daylight never let you get that slow without massive ND easily missed. Also, D850 is incredible but don't use the movie MP4 timelapse mode it's for Vloggers quick and dirty. Instead upload yer 3 hundred edited Raw images into any good video software timeline at 1 frame per second.
To get around the flickering without using ND-filters, you can set the aperture you want and hold in the "aperture preview" button while you loosen the lens just a little bit so you break the electronic contact to the camera. But don't loosen it too much, be careful =)
Stopping down to f22 was painful to watch. So many reasons you should avoid doing that unless ABSOLUTELY necessary. If there is any dust/dirt on your sensor it will stick out like a sore thumb, and you'll also reduce image quality due to diffraction. Probably should have mentioned that in the video. Definitely agree you should be using ND filters for this style of photography!
Dylan, F22 looks fine with many lenses, espcially when the delivery is 4k, or, more likely 2k. The F22 diffraction spikes can be interesting also. I have demonstated F22 looking just fine, yes it is a tad softer, but this is video, and add a little unsharp mask, and all is good.
Dylan, F22 looks fine with many lenses, espcially when the delivery is 4k, or, more likely 2k. The F22 diffraction spikes can be interesting also. I have demonstated F22 looking just fine, yes it is a tad softer, but this is video, and add a little unsharp mask, and all is good.
Nor Dic I completely agree that most lenses will be fine for all but the most picky of pixel peepers from a diffraction standpoint. However, you will still have the smallest dust particles on your sensor stand out very clearly, requiring addition retouching in post. I wasn't meaning to say that you should never shoot at f22, just that it would have been good to mention the potential down sides of doing so for those who might not know. Great tutorial and advice overall as always from Fstoppers! :)
Hey Patrick, what tripod was that, that you put your camera on? It looked sturdier than any of the five tripods that I have. Yet it looks kind of light.
Hi, thanks for the tutorial. How come and you were shooting at 2" at the same time that you set an interval of 2"? Should the interval time be at least double of the shutter time?
Curious what your workflow is. Do you shoot raw and process them in Lightroom/Photoshop and export as JPG and then to Premiere Pro or import JPG straight from the camera and process it in Premiere Pro?
Can you do a video on a sunset time-lapse? With the light changing so much from the time you start till the time you end I'm not sure how I should lock in my settings.
If you twist the lens slightly, so the contacts aren't connected, you cant prevent the APERTURE BLADES in the lens from opening and closing with each shot. (There is no "shutter" IN the lens itself)
It doesn't really change the focus, @@chainsaw2046 You just twist it far enough so that the contacts that control the aperture blades aren't in contact.
...or you can lock in your F-stop and loosen your lens (pins can't talk), same as using a manual lens. That rids the flicker too. The camera will not be constantly recreating your desired aperture, it's locked in perfectly! Don't forget to tighten your lens after the shoot.
Is the non closing aperture blades the secret get flicker free time lapse? Nikon say use exposure smoothing in timelapse mode but I get flickering skies? Nikon 7200..? Great video👍
Yeah using a moving aperture for timelapses is really the issue. We use GH5s now and you can take frames at 1/2 a second which still isn't long enough but it does it in video mode. What's great about this is the shutter opens, the aperture locks and the camera just pulls off 1/2 second frames and builds a timelapse at the end. It's the best way to do timelapse instantly. -P
How do you set the aperture correctly for the last timelapse (sunset) to get evenly lit shots? Do you put it in AV mode? Or change the aperture manually? Or do you twist a Nd filter?
Nice video. I don't know Premiere - but to minimize the flicker from f-stop variation - couldn't you clean up the alignments etc and then copy all the images to a timeline above the source one, offset by 1 image to the right can have it pull averages between the 2 images for the output ? So much of it would be constant in your landscape, it would seem to be a way to reduce that flicker effect some ? Anyone ?
Yep. Pretty much lets you add artificial darkness to your scene. Think of it like sunglasses for your lens- down to the point that you can get both polarized and non
Sorry if this has already been asked, but how long should you set the intervalometer to pause between frames, and how should this depend on the type of scene (traffic, clouds, etc.)?
How about shooting a normal shot with good depth of field, pick the desired golden image with the least interruptions, and insert sections from other images where nothing exists to block it, and paste it into the golden image as the means to eliminate the ALL the unwanted items. That can make it look like you're the only one in that area.
Question: If you enable silent live view photography in the interval timer menu will that also lock the aperture, or will the D850 open and then contract aperture in between each shot?
Nice video, good job! One issue was accord to me. My pictures in the timeline are like 4 seconds each, even if I changed the time line setting to 1 frame its still plays each pic for 4 seconds. Do you know how to fix it? Thanks
You should reference this as shutter angle. If you want something that resembles most films, you want a 180 degree angle. What does that mean? It means that your shutter should be open for half of the frame length and closed for half of it. Essentially, you want your shutter speed to be half of your exposure interval. When shooting video, you'd be shooting at 24fps so you would set your shutter speed to 1/48 (or 1/50 since most cameras don't have a 1/48 option.) If you want your timelapse to shoot a frame every 4 seconds, you'd want to set your shutter to have a 2s exposure. In the middle of the day, even at f/22 and
I've heard people argue this for timelapses but I don't think it matters at all. When you have a 2-4 second blur, the motion is so blurred that I don't think the shutter angle really matters anymore. I don't care so much as how many images I take per second, I just care about the aesthetic of a single frame and then I want to capture as many frames as possible back to back. I had a guy try to tell me that when shooting sky timelapses you need a 180 shutter but I don't think anyone can tell if the motion between moving clouds is 90 degrees or 180 degrees. You can with fast motion of people at 1/50th and 1/120th of a second but with clouds and long shutters, it doesn't really matter. -P
Although I was just mildly curious, and don't have the gear, I was captivated by the truly professional presentation by Patrick Hall.. Even though I don't have the exact camera or software, I was able to follow along and understand the concept as he showed and explained it in a thoroughly professional manner. He spoke clear English with ease and clear command of the subject. I really enjoyed this video. I learned things. Five stars.
Don't bother dragging+dropping a large array of files. Just do a File > Import, and select the first frame of the sequence. Make sure the 'Image Sequence' box is checked at the bottom, and you are good to go --It's a single asset.
this.
That.
but can you change the "1 image per frame" setting with that technique?
@@evanoshea9506 yes
Yes that's easy than this
And i think premiere pro now only has 2 frames as the lowest
Been working as a professional photographer for 20 years, this video proves that one can NEVER stop learning. Thanks for the video. Exicted to try this next week!
Joking? After 20 years you didn´t know you can exposure longer when using a ND filter? Or what excatly do you mean?
To save yourself a little trouble, you can import the entire set of timelapse images into Premiere as one single clip by going to: File > Import. Choose the first image in the sequence. Make sure the "Image Sequence" box is checked and then click Open. Now you won't have to copy and paste attributes to each frame and then nest them as they're already one clip. You can also go into Preferences > Media beforehand and set the Indeterminate Media Timebase to 23.976fps or whatever you like so it will automatically set the clip to that framerate on import. *Note that for this to work, all of the image files must be named sequentially.
Great tutorial guys! Thanks!!
If you shoot high res images that are more than 1080 or 4k, you will have to resize the footage anyways. Also, since your photos will probably be 2:3 or 4:5 aspect ratio, and video is 16:9, you are going to have to tweak the final timelapse to fit into your sequence anyways. The import option is def a way to do it but I've just always copied and pasted the jpegs so that I can easily fix any errors and see each individual frame easier.
Right, you will have to resize, but you can do it to the whole clip at once instead of copying and pasting the attribute to many and then nesting. Also, this way, if you decide to tweak the size again, you haven't lost the edges due to nesting.
I agree. Using the import as sequence is much easier. I think you are better off editing images in Lightroom/LRTimelapse first to fix any flicker.
@@FStoppers yes because you are not doing it the most optimal way
Or shoot with LUMIX cameras which do it all onboard, giving brilliant 4K anywhere, ready to download.
You can use LR Timelapse for post production. This helps to fix the flickering and uses raw files. All in all in helps you to create better timelapses.
Yes definitely but it does require a lot more steps and requires you shoot in raw. Sometimes when we travel for weeks at a time and shoot dozens of timelapses, we don't have the server space to store 10,000+ raw files for timelapses. If you can remove the flicker at the time of capture, you shouldn't need to shoot raw for most of your timelapses but LR Timelapse is great for when you do need smoothing.
Timelapses were such a struggle for me. I definitely needed this. Thank you for reading my mind :)
Hello to my steadicam master 😊😊😊
You are my Idol when it comes to using Steadicam. Thank you for all the teachings in UA-cam 😊
If you shoot raw, bring your sequence into an album in Lightroom, apply your edits, and then export the sequence and render the video in premiere or ae. I like working with the full frame edits first and then downscaling. Haven’t done it in a while and need to revisit the workflow. LR timelapse is also a gnarly Lr plug-in you can use to apply key framing to high res time lapses across a series of images in Lr. These produce very nice applications for light changes over time (think applying an exposure gradient to a sunrise scene)
that's the best software!
5:10 You can stop the camera changing the appeture by disengaging the lens slightly so the camera no longer controls the lens.
I import the jpegs as a sequence in another way, which I consider simpler: Just use Command+I, look for the folder where you have your files, click on the first image, then check the box on the left low corner of hat dialog box, and just "Import as a sequence". Voila! All your jpegs are imported as a sequence. Thanks for this video, I have learned a few things that were new to me!
So many little tips and tricks throughout the video. Great job!
I don't know about Nikon, but with Canon you can choose your aperture then press and hold the DOF button and twist the lens from the contacts to lock in the aperture. This is the method I use for all my time lapses & AF system lenses to cut down on the aperture flicker..
Confirmed, also if your cannon dslr don`t have built in intervalometer google for Magic Lantern, must have thing
Our Canon shooters in the office confirm this too but is this an actual feature or is it more or less a hack that locks the aperture?
Hack. aka :Lens twist hack. Also, don't twist to much. Just enough so the contact are no aligned." I don't want anyone to twist to much and drop there lens"
Exactly. ML is a must have for all Canon shooters
ML stopped development for the 5Dm3 at firmware 1.2.3, it isn't very useful to those who updated to the most recent (1.3.5)
Best behind the scene out there yet. 9/10👌🏾
I've learned so much from fstoppers, I feel I have to give something back: LRTimelapse->Lightroom->After Effects. That is the optimal path. Not the fastest though, that's why you use jpegs, I suppose. And the f22 thing...I'd advice to avoid such extremes because of sensor dust and diffraction. Diffraction can be ignored because the final product is video, but sensor dust sometimes cannot be masked out in post. Another advantage using After Effects or any similar editor is that you can mask the jarring sea waves that annoy us and add extra motion blur to soften them without messing with the sky. That's my experience after 4 years and around 500 timelapses for various short and long film productions.
Thanks for taking the time to make this. A lot of great information here.
Ha!!! Now that's awesome! Never thought about making timelapses with a 2s exposure!! Looks so cool! Can't wait to test that!
For the right exposure/sweetspot I will aply the same rule for video exposure. 180 degree shutter. If you want photos every 2 seconds, the right exposure will be half that time: 1 second.
so what is the ideal shutter speed when i shoot every 2 sec?
Very nice video BUT to ease your workflow here is a little tips : Instead of importing the way you've done it, just go to import, search for your pictures and then tick the "import as sequence" in the explorer. I've found out that it's much powerful, the playback is way better and seems that the computer likes it better this way ! :)
That tip on the aperture makes sense. I wonder if the new Z series cameras pre compose TL at 4K? Another technique is to shoot RAW and import to Lightroom and tweak before spitting out JPGs. But thanks, this is great.
If you hold CTRL and click and drag you can change the scale values in premiere more smooth to get the perfect value that you want.
In a pure landscape scenery without any moving cars or people - what do you think is the right shutter speed for the clouds? Would you also go with 2 seconds? Maybe clouds are working better with a faster shutter speed?
These tutorials are so helpful! I just uploaded my first ever timelapse video (about the city of Bern in Switzerland) and without the help from these tutorials i could not have done it. Thanks!
Converging lines is NOT caused by using a wide angle lens. It is caused by having the film plane at an angle from vertical.
guys , you are the best on youtube and probably in the whole universe!!!!
I've been to that area many times. It's neat to be able to recognize where you're shooting.
Where is it? Charleston maybe?
So lets say I'm a newbie with an A6000 and the free version of Capture One could I get a similar (emphasis on "similar") effect by using the lowest shutter speed offered and an ND filter? *note: just careful how i spend my $$ the first year shooting so that's why I'm going basic on the bells and whistles.*
Thanks!
I shoot timelapse astrophotography and I use Qdslr and LRTimelapse, Yeah the pro license for LRT is around $300 bucks but I do post through Lightroom and LRT, you have WAY more control over your images. The graphic interface in LRT is really easy and brilliant. I've processed 6000+ RAW files for double Holy Grails this way. Yes you need a really fast machine and lots of storage to play in this league but the results are uncompromising and smooth.
On canon, to fix the flicker issue, hold the aperture DOF button and unscrew the lens slightly. Oldest trick in the book. Idk about Nikon.
Haha I use that for reverse ring macro
14:52 you can batch correct the angles in Lightroom.
this was a wonderful video, thank you for making it ; much success to you
That's why you always ramp the speed % down during editing the final video file. 70% is a good place to start. I've gone down to 60% with great results on hyperlapses.
"I'm going to go ahead and put my camera into intervalometer mode"
*cries in a7riii*
Jake Clark you can get an app
@@ginbarker2062 They removed the app for a7iii
@@liam4184 I use open memories tweak, it has every feature this guy just said .
Wait for the new firmware in March :)
Gin Barker der
How would do you hyper time lapse using this technique?
Great video .... but how are you able to obtain the great blur of ur gonna do a day yo night or night to day , with the 10 stop Nd?
At 4:35 into the video you said that you were shooting with an electronic shutter in your lens - is that right, are there dslr lenses that have electronic shutter in them or did you mean electronic shutter in the camera?
Cool video! I would also suggest sandbagging the tripod, which I know is kind of 'old school.'
I am wondering if you set 2s for exposure time but in interval timer you set also 2s, is this not too short (in interval timer)?
Because I heared one should give the camera more time for saving procedure after each shot etc.
use daVinci to remove Flicker... works quite well
import into davinci not as single shots but rather as image-sequence. this way you don't have to worry about them being in the right order and everything else. simply open the import window and select the first frame and then check the "as image sequence" (or alike) checkbox
Great video, thanks for the helpful tips!
Very cool. I didn't know about the aperture causing the flicker. I do lots of timelapses with an 8mm manual aperture lens, so I've never noticed this.
Very informative.. Excellent work 👏
Curious how you'd deal with changing light levels? The only way I can come up with is to do it completely in post production and keeping the exposures slightly underexposed to avoid overexposed loss.
shoot in Av mode in this case, but then you'll have to remove the flicker (I recommend the LRTimelapse for that)
Fantastic explanation. Thank you 🙏🏻
Love your videos sir 🙏
Nahi chahiye Guy is here. 😀
nahi chahiye ji
You guys alwys put such an amazing amount of work into your videos. Really great stuff.
Wow thanks, 2 second shutter speed is golden pro tip for almost any timelapse. I've been trying for years to get it right, shooting daylight never let you get that slow without massive ND easily missed.
Also, D850 is incredible but don't use the movie MP4 timelapse mode it's for Vloggers quick and dirty. Instead upload yer 3 hundred edited Raw images into any good video software timeline at 1 frame per second.
To get around the flickering without using ND-filters, you can set the aperture you want and hold in the "aperture preview" button while you loosen the lens just a little bit so you break the electronic contact to the camera. But don't loosen it too much, be careful =)
Does the photo thing work if you want a 2, 4, 6, or 8 minute long timelapse?
Lumix Cameras do this so well and easily in video with low shutter speeds as well as photo mode.
I think on a Panasonic I can use EFC to eliminate the aperture flicker. Is that right?
Its nice that the "how-to" videos are back!
Stopping down to f22 was painful to watch. So many reasons you should avoid doing that unless ABSOLUTELY necessary. If there is any dust/dirt on your sensor it will stick out like a sore thumb, and you'll also reduce image quality due to diffraction. Probably should have mentioned that in the video. Definitely agree you should be using ND filters for this style of photography!
Yeah, I only did it to maximize the shutter speed without any ND filters. I would never suggest shooting at f/22
Dylan, F22 looks fine with many lenses, espcially when the delivery is 4k, or, more likely 2k. The F22 diffraction spikes can be interesting also. I have demonstated F22 looking just fine, yes it is a tad softer, but this is video, and add a little unsharp mask, and all is good.
Dylan, F22 looks fine with many lenses, espcially when the delivery is 4k, or, more likely 2k. The F22 diffraction spikes can be interesting also. I have demonstated F22 looking just fine, yes it is a tad softer, but this is video, and add a little unsharp mask, and all is good.
Nor Dic I completely agree that most lenses will be fine for all but the most picky of pixel peepers from a diffraction standpoint. However, you will still have the smallest dust particles on your sensor stand out very clearly, requiring addition retouching in post. I wasn't meaning to say that you should never shoot at f22, just that it would have been good to mention the potential down sides of doing so for those who might not know. Great tutorial and advice overall as always from Fstoppers! :)
Good info - glad I have a career history in tech - nice to combine all the tech with the latest & greatest camera's today
Love it，learn more about timelapse
Please suggest best remote shutter release for sony a7iii and if possible make a video on it
Hey Patrick, what tripod was that, that you put your camera on? It looked sturdier than any of the five tripods that I have. Yet it looks kind of light.
Hi, thanks for the tutorial. How come and you were shooting at 2" at the same time that you set an interval of 2"? Should the interval time be at least double of the shutter time?
i was thinking the same
Thought so
But it should not be the double
Just 2 or 4 seconds for dark time in enough
Curious what your workflow is. Do you shoot raw and process them in Lightroom/Photoshop and export as JPG and then to Premiere Pro or import JPG straight from the camera and process it in Premiere Pro?
Lightroom then Premiere. I don't like to throw too many effects on jpegs if I can burn them in with LR/PS. -P
Thanks for the tips!
Can you do a video on a sunset time-lapse? With the light changing so much from the time you start till the time you end I'm not sure how I should lock in my settings.
Are you always using 2 sec. as shutter time regardless of distance, or do you use a different time for filming at longer distance with a tele lens?
One thing I'm wondering, what camera did you use to film yourself in this video? It's crisp!!
If you twist the lens slightly, so the contacts aren't connected, you cant prevent the APERTURE BLADES in the lens from opening and closing with each shot.
(There is no "shutter" IN the lens itself)
I really like doing this to mess with focus and aperture on my digital camera. It's kinda cool to experiment with, reminds me of close focus lenses.
It doesn't really change the focus, @@chainsaw2046
You just twist it far enough so that the contacts that control the aperture blades aren't in contact.
Oh, I meant going all the way off the camera..
Hi. What screen recoder do you use?
this was so informational... absolutely love it!!! Thank you!!!
...or you can lock in your F-stop and loosen your lens (pins can't talk), same as using a manual lens. That rids the flicker too. The camera will not be constantly recreating your desired aperture, it's locked in perfectly! Don't forget to tighten your lens after the shoot.
Some v. useful information thanks!
Is the non closing aperture blades the secret get flicker free time lapse? Nikon say use exposure smoothing in timelapse mode but I get flickering skies? Nikon 7200..? Great video👍
Yeah using a moving aperture for timelapses is really the issue. We use GH5s now and you can take frames at 1/2 a second which still isn't long enough but it does it in video mode. What's great about this is the shutter opens, the aperture locks and the camera just pulls off 1/2 second frames and builds a timelapse at the end. It's the best way to do timelapse instantly. -P
Why not use the import image sequence in Premiere pro, it saves having to nest and saves a lot of time on export.
what if you have to timelapse from day to night? there you have to expose 10, 15, 30 seconds? or what about cloud movement there?
I learned a lot from your video. Thank you. Most appreciated.
So how do you make a sunset/sunrise timelapse - with the sweet spot at 2 seconds?
I made one just yesterday with a 10 stop Hoya and my 20mm Nikkor f/1.8. Simple.
Is there a way to do this without the filter?
What is the ball head you are using? I am looking to upgrade my tripod and ball bead.
How do you set the aperture correctly for the last timelapse (sunset) to get evenly lit shots? Do you put it in AV mode? Or change the aperture manually? Or do you twist a Nd filter?
Excellent informative & entertaining Video. Thumbs up & I Subscribed.!
Loved the explanation and I learned something new today about the flickering issue.
Could you compensate for the converging lines with a tilt-shift lens?
absolutely! The only caveat is that some wide angle tilt shift lenses don't allow screw on filters to attach
Fstoppers thanks for the reply!
Very informative, thanks for sharing
I was about to say that thumbnail shot looked amazing and glad to have seen it at the end.
Nice video. I don't know Premiere - but to minimize the flicker from f-stop variation - couldn't you clean up the alignments etc and then copy all the images to a timeline above the source one, offset by 1 image to the right can have it pull averages between the 2 images for the output ? So much of it would be constant in your landscape, it would seem to be a way to reduce that flicker effect some ? Anyone ?
beautiful work ❤️ learnt something interesting
Did you put this on a stock website because I’ve seen a few people on UA-cam using this to talk about time lapse
Is there an inexpensive camera that can do this leaf shutter kind of timelapse mode?
Is electronic shutter going to give me no flicker if I use it on my gh5?
Have to shoot time lapse for work this weekend. Great info.
Nice content very in depth. Thanks hope i can apply it as well. Great job 😃
So a ND filter lets me have longer exposures in lets say daylight, without getting the picture too bright?
Yep. Pretty much lets you add artificial darkness to your scene. Think of it like sunglasses for your lens- down to the point that you can get both polarized and non
You got it
Sorry if this has already been asked, but how long should you set the intervalometer to pause between frames, and how should this depend on the type of scene (traffic, clouds, etc.)?
What about White Balance? Do I really have to turn AWB off? Has anyone ever had bad experiences with the AWB turned on?
How about shooting a normal shot with good depth of field, pick the desired golden image with the least interruptions, and insert sections from other images where nothing exists to block it, and paste it into the golden image as the means to eliminate the ALL the unwanted items. That can make it look like you're the only one in that area.
Question: If you enable silent live view photography in the interval timer menu will that also lock the aperture, or will the D850 open and then contract aperture in between each shot?
Answering my own question: Yes it does
If I shoot it with the widest aperture , how will I get properly focused and deep image ?
Thanks, have been looking for exactly this. Learned more than with the previous 10 videos ;)
Nice video, good job! One issue was accord to me. My pictures in the timeline are like 4 seconds each, even if I changed the time line setting to 1 frame its still plays each pic for 4 seconds. Do you know how to fix it? Thanks
Whats a good interval for sunset and sunrise? I need a 5 - 10 second video of it.
You should reference this as shutter angle. If you want something that resembles most films, you want a 180 degree angle. What does that mean? It means that your shutter should be open for half of the frame length and closed for half of it.
Essentially, you want your shutter speed to be half of your exposure interval. When shooting video, you'd be shooting at 24fps so you would set your shutter speed to 1/48 (or 1/50 since most cameras don't have a 1/48 option.)
If you want your timelapse to shoot a frame every 4 seconds, you'd want to set your shutter to have a 2s exposure. In the middle of the day, even at f/22 and
I've heard people argue this for timelapses but I don't think it matters at all. When you have a 2-4 second blur, the motion is so blurred that I don't think the shutter angle really matters anymore. I don't care so much as how many images I take per second, I just care about the aesthetic of a single frame and then I want to capture as many frames as possible back to back. I had a guy try to tell me that when shooting sky timelapses you need a 180 shutter but I don't think anyone can tell if the motion between moving clouds is 90 degrees or 180 degrees. You can with fast motion of people at 1/50th and 1/120th of a second but with clouds and long shutters, it doesn't really matter. -P
That last time lapse was sweet. I gotta get back out at night again
Thanks Fstoppers
oh really hepfull.... like everything about tym laps in single video
Good information and very useful for either video or photo.
what software did you use for post production? how much does it cost?
you could do that work in Hitfilm Express, which is free. Davinci Resolve as well.
Thanks