I always use jointing compound on all my olives vs ptfe tape. It's quicker less fidiley and designed for the job. Other than that I fully agree that JG fitting are just easier then hep and.i trust them more as they have multiple seals and that twist lock
2 tips for you the hot and cold isolating turn off screws need to be position so it is easy to place a screwdriver to turn off and on better sill use ones with levers and make sure all the waste pipe have the appropriate fall.very interesting and some useful information
Nice video. I've used Hep2O and other types of fittings for at least 25 years. But nowadays, I only use Hep2O fittings, and Hep2O pipe inserts. 100% guaranteed. No problems with them for many years.
To find hot/cold at the tap.....open the tap at cold setting, then blow through flexi pipes. Whichever pipe has no restriction, i.e you can blow through it, THAT is the cold
You can also use speedfit iso valves, they work brilliantly & never seize, leak or fail, plus you do not need a FH screwdriver to operate & they are aesthetically better
Interesting seeing what you use over there. Over here, we use PEX pipes joined with thermal expansion/contraction. It is a bit annoying to work in confined spaces and it's mostly single-use, but likely much cheaper than those press-fit connectors. For waste water it's similar to yours: welded PVC. Identifying hot/cold was already mentioned by other users - either open up one inlet or blow air into one flex. Build-up: a bath in vinegar should dissolve all the deposits. I had to this regularly when living in a different place. That includes shower heads, the water-saver mesh, cartridges or even the faucet outlet itself, since it's faster than brushing it off.
I enjoyed another one of your videos and many thanks for that. I did see at the end of this video that you were flicking through photo's looking for a new filter, well here's a tip just in case you didn't already know. If you are unsure about what filter you need, or due to corrosion there are no identifying marks or numbers to read, are you aware that if you use google lens, you can take a picture of anything, even in your hand, Google will then provide you with direct links and information on the subject in the Photo, it's another great tool you may like, I hope this was useful or helpful. :-)
Great video Stu (took me quite a few years to build up the knowledge it contains). The only thing I’d say is I was always told by plumbers I’d worked with that mixing different manufacturers pipework isn’t good practice. That would mean you’d have to stay hep2O or put some copper in between the different fittings, but I tend to do this to stay safe.
A few comments. I used Hep20 fittings 30+ years back and they are still holding strong, Agree that the speedfit fittings are best. Lastly I would never use those screwdriver isolation valves. Hate them!!! I go for full handle ball valves
Completely agree. I have never seen so many screwdriver cut-off valves leak the way these do. These days I pay a bit more an get full ball handle valves.
Interesting video with some useful information. I had a very nasty experience using push-fit into a chromed cold water sink pipe a few years back. I didn't know that it was a complete "No-No" unless you remove the chrome coating first and take it back to the copper. The pipe burst off the Hep2o pipe in the middle of the night.
Good point well made. Need to bone-up on the specifics if you're going to use chromed pipe. Also, it sometimes comes in 14mm, so you need to watch out for this too.
excellent video stuart! just yesterday i had to do an emergency repair on a speedfit joint at the inlaws. we think the plumber who has done their bathroom refit, has reused the old leaky speedfit elbow from the bath and fitted it to the new shower which has spent the last 3 weeks leaking down the kitchen wall. we had to cut a hole through the thermoblock wall on the landing just to get to it.
Useful video thanks. Just to add my experiences to the scenario - try to avoid tap tails with built-in shut off valves as they connect straight to the pipe and when they fail (and they do) you have no way of turning off the water supply to change them. Best work around is to use a service valve and attach the tap tail to that. Hope it helps. P.S. You're very brave to unscrew that tap without putting the plug down, the number of times I've lost a screw down the plughole.....
Great Video, Im in the middle of replacing my shower and todays Job is to extended the hot & cold onto an existing Hep2o connection into the loft for a digital shower, and next weekend is a new stud wall to box it all in!
been a while since I've done any plumbing but I always mark both hot and cold with red/ blue tape at several places - if one falls off you've got more that 1 point of reference.
Useful, thank you. You didn’t video passing waste pipe thru the studding already prepared with a wrap of bonding cement. I guess that only worked with generous clearance and a forceful bending of the 32mm pipe.
You can get little clips for the ends of the speed fit fittings. They stop the fitting from twisting off. Not really necessary but they are cheap and it's extra piece of mind. You can also get red and blue ones so you know which is the hot water and which is cold. You can also get speed fit isolation valves so you don't have to mess about with copper.
Hi Stuart, Good video as always. A couple of points. 1-have a wet and dry vac on standby. 2-I prefer to use a smear of a jointing compound designed for use with hot and cold potable water(Non-toxic formulation. WRAS approved) on compression fittings.
RE: Hep2o fittings, I don't know if they still do it but they certainly did a few years back. If you contact the company politely expressing interest they will send you a sample kit. Mine contained two fittings, a bit of pipe, a couple of inserts and most importantly a removal tool/key. For a while they would also send you a pipe cutter if you asked nicely as well and their pipe cutter is really nice, just uses a stanley blade so easy to keep sharp and it works like the speed cutters for copper, you just snap it on the pipe and spin it a few times until the pipe is cut.
Hi Stuart, it was great to meet you at Screwfix live. Love the videos. Not watched it all the way through but I’d never put and insert or pipe into a speed fit joint dry. Best to use some water based lubricants as I’ve seen dry fittings list the internal o-ring. Thanks Gary
I don't think you mentioned it but I reckon it's worth saying it, considering that you did it correctly; holes in stud-work should always be done vertically and not side by side.
Just so you know mate, on those flexi taps the cold is always going to be the one on the right and hot on the left as it goes into the tap body. Also you shouldn’t connect the flexis onto the isolation valves like that, they are designed to fit onto a flat face like a male iron to copper for example. The face of those isolation valves is bored so it accepts the olive. If even slightly over tightened it will cut into the rubber of the flexi causing it to leak 👍🏻
I have diamond sharpening strips,you can rub the isolating valves along a strip and flatten the edge it doesn't take much effort, the brass is soft,,no fear then of it leaking a few years down the line.
You mentioned how thin the ptfe tape was! It looked to be on yellow reel which is approved for Gas threaded fittings, I have no issue with yiu using it as yiu describe but would never use the thinner non gas tape on gas!
Hi Stuart, another great video. I may be wrong but the calcification looked like it was in the flow straightener at the end of the tap spout and probably not in the cartridge. There is also a filter/gauze in there that probably has a load of crap caught in it which will restrict the flow. Worth unscrewing it and and having a look. If the restriction was further back up stream the water would have just trickled out. The fact that it sprayed out suggests that the restriction was just there. I bit like nipping the end of a hose pipe vs turning the outside tap down! Hope that helps G
It's worth marking the pipe when using 'push-fit' to know it has gone all the way in. Another thing Stuart, sinks go in kitchens, basins go in bathrooms. 🙂
@BigDen06 Hep2o fittings have a rumble strip so you know you've made a good connection. It makes up part of the fitting instructions that qualify the 50 year guarantee. No need to mark the pipe.
I looked into the possibility of mixing Hep20 and Speedfit pipe and fittings and was advised against it as pipe inner dia and inserts are different. The only way I could think of doing it is to have a short piece of copper pipe in between both systems as they both fit to copper no problems. /??
Great video, I've been holding off bringing water to a new loo and sink under the stair, I'm just nervous about leaks. I've already core drilled out and got the waste fitted into the stack. How did you get on fitting JG to Hep20? From what I know they're both fine into copper but don't they need own brand 15mm plastic pipe, or is it just the inserts that make the difference?
When going to old push fit, you there are some early connectors that do not undo. If that is the case you have no choice but to cut them out. Also, some old demountable ones used collets to stop them coming apart. You simply remove the collet and then you can push like the JG Speedfit ones in the video. Flomasta used to do this but have now gone to the same style as Speedfit. Speedfit fittings can also take collets but don't generally need them. However, you can get red and blue collets so I tend to use them to make whether I have hot or cold water in the pipe. With regard to cutting the plasterboard, why not use your multicutter? They were originally made for removing plastercasts from limbs so they are less likely to cause accidental damage than a handsaw.
What is the precise name of the elbow for one side for the plastic pipe and the other side for the copper pipe? What is the name of the stuff you inserted into the pipe?
Why not use the speed fit isolation valves? And also the locking collets for the fittings which can come in red and blue to indicate hot and cold and ensures the fitting can’t come loose. Thanks
Small tip, those flexi tap connectors shouldn't be screwed onto an isolation valve, the end of the thread is too sharp and will split the flexi washer.
Most plumbers will not use any tape on an olive . Just not needed of designed for it. Reconnecting an old joint might need tape if will not stop leaking. I have never used tape and to my knollage never had a leak. Plus yes agree with other comments re the tap tails on the iso valves . Add a tap connector first . I guess this is proper DIY .
No need to order a new part for the tap. Soak it and the ring on the outlet of the tap in warm citric acid for an hour... it will clear any crusty limescale build up.
Fab video Stuart. On the compression fittings how come you didn’t use any flux and just used PTFE? Love your content it’s really helped with my current house refurb in progress. You’ve inspired me to do a lot myself.
I think you mean paste, not flux. Paste is better and quicker than ptfe in my opinion but both will work. Some diehards will say you need neither and in many cases this is true but why risk it!
@@mistermikeansonIt is true though! If your using plastic with inserts, or new copper, compression fittings shouldn't need any tape or compounds. DIY'ers usually do, its just one of those things.
Flux?!?!? Please, nobody do that!!!! It's corrosive!!!! Yes, use for soldering (can't do without it), but that's fine as it evaporates! Jointing compound can be used for compression fittings... Just make sure it's potable and not the one suitable for heating systems!!
Years ago it became standard for the cold tap to be on the right to help blind people. My parents house is the wrong way round which is really annoying.
A few years ago a local pensioner had a fault on the un-vented hot water cylinder in the loft this caused a fire which melted the casing causing the fire to intensify. Eventually the fire must have got so hot it melted the plastic supply pipes which then sprayed water over the fire and put it out. The pensioner noticed the water flooding through the ceiling and could then smell the fire and called the fire department. Apart from knowing that the electricity had gone off she was unaware of the fire until that point , so think on this if you think plastic pipes are rubbish and never use them.
Fun fact. PTFE tape (know round our way as "Plumbers tape for everything") is actually a lubricant not a sealant. It is designed for metal on metal threads to stop them galling/binding when being tightened.
They make service valves in plastic so why change to copper? Flexipipes with a built in service valve is a good choice and available in plastic push fit.
PTFE on compression fittings is quite crude and I think you put too much on, however I use Fernox LS-X sealant instead. Works great on radiator fittings and all compression fittings with the same preparation you did.
Would has used the same system with the PTFE after first compressing the Olive over three decades plus had Zero leaks, with same, would have also used a little smear of paste from a twenty year old Pot of Boss White Jointing paste many times around an compressed Olive and also Zero leaks ... Sorted... Great Upload...
No need for either,that's what the olive is for,if you want to stiĺl use something put it around the olive then tighten the nut,on Rad valves yes,there's no olive,
@@onelineal9382 Seen enough situations where the olive isn't enough. Also rad valves, mine have olives. Do you mean the rad threaded tails? In which case I use Rapid Blue or Loctite 577.
Hep2o fittings are guaranteed for 25 years, where as the Speedfit are guaranteed for 20 years. Hep2o are trickier to work with it, so depends on you and your piece of mind. For a DIYer in your own home, the Hep2o might be the way?
Interesting what you British folks use for plumbing. I take it that Shark Bites aren’t available there? (Been doing all new plumbing in my copper pipe filled house with Pex-A, but do occasionally have to use a SharkBite). Also, that piping seems a bit narrow, is it less than a ½ inch?
Sharkbite is the same as tectite, stainless teeth grip and not demountable. Hep2o actually used to be like that too, it wasn't demountable as it is now. The pipe is 15mm.
Plumber here! Hummmm I don’t know man, leave it to the experts I’d say, get it wrong and you could destroy your house, trust me I’ve seen it, love your channel tho mate 👌
I been connecting fitting compression joints for over 50 years now and have never in that time rapped PTFE tape around a compression fitting joint . In fact PTFE tape did not exists . But boss white did . A smear of that tighten job done . Not to say i never had a joint weep or leak would be a lie . But PTFE tape for me big no .
PTFE, jointing compound.. a smear of silicone grease.. all you're really doing is lubricating to achieve the compression forces with less torque applied. Doesn't matter which you go for.
Just saying and I expect lots of disagreement but I've never used inserts on plastic to plastic plastic. On traditional compression fittings always use the inserts... never had issues and done it that way for 15 years plus not saying it's wrong to use them but I don't thi k they are needed
Looks like another great video, but had to give up with bleeding ears ua-cam.com/video/ST-AT3r_eP4/v-deo.html😁 Wish UA-cam offers two sound channels so producers can put narration and music separately, so we can alter the levels independently.
Same for me, no PTFE on the olive. I usually put one and a half wraps on the thread, just for lubricant. Looks like he is using PTFE for gas fittings, hence the yellow spool.
PTFE tape isn't really "for sealing", it's mainly to prevent threads from binding together if / when they corrode. But it deforms enough to be used as a sealant for small gaps.
About the copper fittings: you should never put the pipe all the way to the bottom of the fitting. If you leave just a little room, the compression ring has some space to compress. You won't need the teflon tape.
Just like Charlie DIYte, your've also picked Rag'n Brown's misuse of "offer up" (at 7:44) Offer up means give as sacrifice to a deity, it doesn't mean aligning or adjusting or even dry fitting. There are plenty of correct words to describe this alignment job.
You’re not professional installer, the John guest, speed fits , requires installing , Collet locking clips inside the cavity walls or underneath the floors , what happens if someone uses Oliver puller they will pull out all fitting without those clips … you definitely don’t know a lot about speed fit fittings , the house insurance wouldn’t cover your insurance if there’s a leaks referring to any of those incidents … when you installer you need to know a lot about policies of buildings regs and house insurance , otherwise is not worth wasting a time and creating a bombshells…
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I never used ptfe tape or anything else on compression fittings,never had leaks. PTFE tape is for pipe threads.
Hep now do keyless fittings. Game changer!
I always use jointing compound on all my olives vs ptfe tape. It's quicker less fidiley and designed for the job. Other than that I fully agree that JG fitting are just easier then hep and.i trust them more as they have multiple seals and that twist lock
2 tips for you the hot and cold isolating turn off screws need to be position so it is easy to place a screwdriver to turn off and on better sill use ones with levers and make sure all the waste pipe have the appropriate fall.very interesting and some useful information
Was advised by my plumber to use swept waste bends wherever possible vs 90 degree bends when doing my own DIY work to ensure better flow
Always like reading the comments to gain at least 50% more knowledge from those who know. 👍
Nice video. I've used Hep2O and other types of fittings for at least 25 years. But nowadays, I only use Hep2O fittings, and Hep2O pipe inserts. 100% guaranteed. No problems with them for many years.
To find hot/cold at the tap.....open the tap at cold setting, then blow through flexi pipes.
Whichever pipe has no restriction, i.e you can blow through it, THAT is the cold
Or just don't open _both_ isolation valves (open just one) and see which side makes water come out (that'll be the one you opened).
You can also use speedfit iso valves, they work brilliantly & never seize, leak or fail, plus you do not need a FH screwdriver to operate & they are aesthetically better
Interesting seeing what you use over there. Over here, we use PEX pipes joined with thermal expansion/contraction. It is a bit annoying to work in confined spaces and it's mostly single-use, but likely much cheaper than those press-fit connectors. For waste water it's similar to yours: welded PVC.
Identifying hot/cold was already mentioned by other users - either open up one inlet or blow air into one flex.
Build-up: a bath in vinegar should dissolve all the deposits. I had to this regularly when living in a different place. That includes shower heads, the water-saver mesh, cartridges or even the faucet outlet itself, since it's faster than brushing it off.
Thanks Stuart, once again you make this accessible to the average DIYer which is, after all, the premise of the channel !
I enjoyed another one of your videos and many thanks for that. I did see at the end of this video that you were flicking through photo's looking for a new filter, well here's a tip just in case you didn't already know. If you are unsure about what filter you need, or due to corrosion there are no identifying marks or numbers to read, are you aware that if you use google lens, you can take a picture of anything, even in your hand, Google will then provide you with direct links and information on the subject in the Photo, it's another great tool you may like, I hope this was useful or helpful. :-)
Great video Stu (took me quite a few years to build up the knowledge it contains). The only thing I’d say is I was always told by plumbers I’d worked with that mixing different manufacturers pipework isn’t good practice. That would mean you’d have to stay hep2O or put some copper in between the different fittings, but I tend to do this to stay safe.
A few comments. I used Hep20 fittings 30+ years back and they are still holding strong, Agree that the speedfit fittings are best. Lastly I would never use those screwdriver isolation valves. Hate them!!! I go for full handle ball valves
Handle and full bore isolation valves are my favourite
Completely agree. I have never seen so many screwdriver cut-off valves leak the way these do. These days I pay a bit more an get full ball handle valves.
Interesting video with some useful information. I had a very nasty experience using push-fit into a chromed cold water sink pipe a few years back. I didn't know that it was a complete "No-No" unless you remove the chrome coating first and take it back to the copper. The pipe burst off the Hep2o pipe in the middle of the night.
Good point well made. Need to bone-up on the specifics if you're going to use chromed pipe. Also, it sometimes comes in 14mm, so you need to watch out for this too.
excellent video stuart! just yesterday i had to do an emergency repair on a speedfit joint at the inlaws. we think the plumber who has done their bathroom refit, has reused the old leaky speedfit elbow from the bath and fitted it to the new shower which has spent the last 3 weeks leaking down the kitchen wall. we had to cut a hole through the thermoblock wall on the landing just to get to it.
Useful video thanks. Just to add my experiences to the scenario - try to avoid tap tails with built-in shut off valves as they connect straight to the pipe and when they fail (and they do) you have no way of turning off the water supply to change them. Best work around is to use a service valve and attach the tap tail to that. Hope it helps.
P.S. You're very brave to unscrew that tap without putting the plug down, the number of times I've lost a screw down the plughole.....
Yep, always stick the plug in when working near a basin or bath.
PTFE on the olive! Brilliant!
I used this method few years ago. It make things complicated. You can try it, then you will understand what i meant.
Great Video, Im in the middle of replacing my shower and todays Job is to extended the hot & cold onto an existing Hep2o connection into the loft for a digital shower, and next weekend is a new stud wall to box it all in!
been a while since I've done any plumbing but I always mark both hot and cold with red/ blue tape at several places - if one falls off you've got more that 1 point of reference.
Pro tips from a pro operator - very nicely done, Stuart.
Useful, thank you. You didn’t video passing waste pipe thru the studding already prepared with a wrap of bonding cement. I guess that only worked with generous clearance and a forceful bending of the 32mm pipe.
You can get little clips for the ends of the speed fit fittings. They stop the fitting from twisting off. Not really necessary but they are cheap and it's extra piece of mind. You can also get red and blue ones so you know which is the hot water and which is cold.
You can also get speed fit isolation valves so you don't have to mess about with copper.
Hi Stuart,
Good video as always. A couple of points. 1-have a wet and dry vac on standby. 2-I prefer to use a smear of a jointing compound designed for use with hot and cold potable water(Non-toxic formulation. WRAS approved) on compression fittings.
It was always "Boss White" in my day (years ago)
@@mickeyfilmer5551 Boss Blue for potable water but can't seem to find it anymore.
0:21 I reckon that’s actually condensation from the warm air corroding the cold feed. It looks far too uniform to me. Great vid!
RE: Hep2o fittings, I don't know if they still do it but they certainly did a few years back. If you contact the company politely expressing interest they will send you a sample kit. Mine contained two fittings, a bit of pipe, a couple of inserts and most importantly a removal tool/key. For a while they would also send you a pipe cutter if you asked nicely as well and their pipe cutter is really nice, just uses a stanley blade so easy to keep sharp and it works like the speed cutters for copper, you just snap it on the pipe and spin it a few times until the pipe is cut.
Hi Stuart, it was great to meet you at Screwfix live. Love the videos. Not watched it all the way through but I’d never put and insert or pipe into a speed fit joint dry. Best to use some water based lubricants as I’ve seen dry fittings list the internal o-ring. Thanks Gary
Never ever known that to happen in the thousands I've installed.
I don't think you mentioned it but I reckon it's worth saying it, considering that you did it correctly; holes in stud-work should always be done vertically and not side by side.
Just so you know mate, on those flexi taps the cold is always going to be the one on the right and hot on the left as it goes into the tap body. Also you shouldn’t connect the flexis onto the isolation valves like that, they are designed to fit onto a flat face like a male iron to copper for example. The face of those isolation valves is bored so it accepts the olive. If even slightly over tightened it will cut into the rubber of the flexi causing it to leak 👍🏻
You can get flat faced isolation valves to eliminate that problem.
Didn’t he do a video on this very subject! I ordered face valves because of it!
I have diamond sharpening strips,you can rub the isolating valves along a strip and flatten the edge it doesn't take much effort, the brass is soft,,no fear then of it leaking a few years down the line.
Excellent advice and demonstration..thanks for sharing 😊
0:36 gave me a good chuckle Stuart.
Came to the comment section looking for this. Was not disappointed.
class well done mate 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
You mentioned how thin the ptfe tape was! It looked to be on yellow reel which is approved for Gas threaded fittings, I have no issue with yiu using it as yiu describe but would never use the thinner non gas tape on gas!
Good video. Though PTFE isn't needed between the nut and olive. Just the Olive to fitting. Good DIY video
Can you tell me what your plan is for access to the isolation valves? Through the vanity unit or through from the other side of the stud wall?
Lovely job!
Great video 👍🏻
At least it's not just me that uses every available flat surface as a tool station when I am doing a job around the gaff..👍😊
Hi Stuart, another great video. I may be wrong but the calcification looked like it was in the flow straightener at the end of the tap spout and probably not in the cartridge. There is also a filter/gauze in there that probably has a load of crap caught in it which will restrict the flow. Worth unscrewing it and and having a look. If the restriction was further back up stream the water would have just trickled out. The fact that it sprayed out suggests that the restriction was just there. I bit like nipping the end of a hose pipe vs turning the outside tap down! Hope that helps G
Great video !!! thsnks
Brilliant!
It's worth marking the pipe when using 'push-fit' to know it has gone all the way in. Another thing Stuart, sinks go in kitchens, basins go in bathrooms. 🙂
@BigDen06 Hep2o fittings have a rumble strip so you know you've made a good connection. It makes up part of the fitting instructions that qualify the 50 year guarantee. No need to mark the pipe.
Decent taps (ie, not cheap ones) will have flexis that are colour coded red and blue. If not, the hot is always the one coming out from the left.
5:21 Got those metal inserts stuck in those Hep20 fittings many a time - the 'tagged' ones are less prone to it.
I looked into the possibility of mixing Hep20 and Speedfit pipe and fittings and was advised against it as pipe inner dia and inserts are different. The only way I could think of doing it is to have a short piece of copper pipe in between both systems as they both fit to copper no problems. /??
Great video, I've been holding off bringing water to a new loo and sink under the stair, I'm just nervous about leaks. I've already core drilled out and got the waste fitted into the stack.
How did you get on fitting JG to Hep20? From what I know they're both fine into copper but don't they need own brand 15mm plastic pipe, or is it just the inserts that make the difference?
Doesn’t make any difference mate you can use any fitting on any pipe 👍🏻
Jet blue good too
When trying to work out which is hot and cold i tend to set the tap to cold and blow through the flexi 😉
Good tip, but cold will always be on the right too 👍🏻
@@relaxreflect5888 - Unless you connect them the other way around. 😉
When going to old push fit, you there are some early connectors that do not undo. If that is the case you have no choice but to cut them out.
Also, some old demountable ones used collets to stop them coming apart. You simply remove the collet and then you can push like the JG Speedfit ones in the video.
Flomasta used to do this but have now gone to the same style as Speedfit.
Speedfit fittings can also take collets but don't generally need them. However, you can get red and blue collets so I tend to use them to make whether I have hot or cold water in the pipe.
With regard to cutting the plasterboard, why not use your multicutter? They were originally made for removing plastercasts from limbs so they are less likely to cause accidental damage than a handsaw.
Shame this didn’t come out a couple days earlier🤣just finished moving 2 radiators using speed fit connectors
What is the precise name of the elbow for one side for the plastic pipe and the other side for the copper pipe?
What is the name of the stuff you inserted into the pipe?
Wavin have released keyless hep2o fittings now.
do you have Shark Bite plumbing fittings available in hte UK? They are fantastic here in the States
Why not use the speed fit isolation valves? And also the locking collets for the fittings which can come in red and blue to indicate hot and cold and ensures the fitting can’t come loose. Thanks
General question - what do you use to clean your cordless tools?
Ah, just watched top 10 part2!!!!!!!
Question - how do you install a lead-lock connector between lead and copper pipe?
Small tip, those flexi tap connectors shouldn't be screwed onto an isolation valve, the end of the thread is too sharp and will split the flexi washer.
@ottofumbler7267 flat faced isolation valves are the same price lol
@@ottofumbler7267 BES. Flat faced £1.80, normal £1.46. If that's "way more", you need to get off the dole and get a job.
@@dtrrider1 So... they're the same price are they? Muppet. 😂
also worth noting that even push fit should be secured / fixed back to the studs at various centres, particularly at the corner joints..
I wouldn’t advise plastic downstairs if you’ve got timber joisted floor - mice/rats like chewing on them….
Most plumbers will not use any tape on an olive . Just not needed of designed for it. Reconnecting an old joint might need tape if will not stop leaking. I have never used tape and to my knollage never had a leak.
Plus yes agree with other comments re the tap tails on the iso valves . Add a tap connector first . I guess this is proper DIY .
Where did you get those mini stilsons?
No need to order a new part for the tap. Soak it and the ring on the outlet of the tap in warm citric acid for an hour... it will clear any crusty limescale build up.
22mm pipe slice down it so it fits over the pipe works perfectly for a key
Fab video Stuart. On the compression fittings how come you didn’t use any flux and just used PTFE? Love your content it’s really helped with my current house refurb in progress. You’ve inspired me to do a lot myself.
I think you mean paste, not flux. Paste is better and quicker than ptfe in my opinion but both will work. Some diehards will say you need neither and in many cases this is true but why risk it!
Mister Mike, using compression fittings is a lot like making love to a beautiful woman, don't go in dry! 😮
@@mistermikeansonIt is true though! If your using plastic with inserts, or new copper, compression fittings shouldn't need any tape or compounds. DIY'ers usually do, its just one of those things.
Flux?!?!? Please, nobody do that!!!! It's corrosive!!!! Yes, use for soldering (can't do without it), but that's fine as it evaporates!
Jointing compound can be used for compression fittings... Just make sure it's potable and not the one suitable for heating systems!!
I too prefer speedfit.
Years ago it became standard for the cold tap to be on the right to help blind people. My parents house is the wrong way round which is really annoying.
Male irons you require for your flexis to have a flat face to face connection instead of a taper face to face.
Ignore the know it alls and the haters, excellent job and excellent video as always Stuart , thank you 👍👍
A few years ago a local pensioner had a fault on the un-vented hot water cylinder in the loft this caused a fire which melted the casing causing the fire to intensify. Eventually the fire must have got so hot it melted the plastic supply pipes which then sprayed water over the fire and put it out.
The pensioner noticed the water flooding through the ceiling and could then smell the fire and called the fire department. Apart from knowing that the electricity had gone off she was unaware of the fire until that point , so think on this if you think plastic pipes are rubbish and never use them.
LOL
as your mixing fittings, its probably worth checking that the pipework is compatible for use with both types of fittings.
Plastic pipe are all the same,22mm or15mm, it's just a ploy for you to buy their branded inserts,ask any plumber.
Fun fact.
PTFE tape (know round our way as "Plumbers tape for everything") is actually a lubricant not a sealant. It is designed for metal on metal threads to stop them galling/binding when being tightened.
It doesn't expand when wet, but it still acts as a sealant just by filling small spaces.
They make service valves in plastic so why change to copper? Flexipipes with a built in service valve is a good choice and available in plastic push fit.
Did you use gas often tape?
Looks like it. The yellow spool gives it away!
PTFE on compression fittings is quite crude and I think you put too much on, however I use Fernox LS-X sealant instead. Works great on radiator fittings and all compression fittings with the same preparation you did.
Would has used the same system with the PTFE after first compressing the Olive over three decades plus had Zero leaks, with same, would have also used a little smear of paste from a twenty year old Pot of Boss White Jointing paste many times around an compressed Olive and also Zero leaks ... Sorted... Great Upload...
@@malachy1847 Yes, Boss white or LSX are ideal
No need for either,that's what the olive is for,if you want to stiĺl use something put it around the olive then tighten the nut,on Rad valves yes,there's no olive,
@@onelineal9382 Seen enough situations where the olive isn't enough. Also rad valves, mine have olives. Do you mean the rad threaded tails? In which case I use Rapid Blue or Loctite 577.
Hep2o fittings are guaranteed for 25 years, where as the Speedfit are guaranteed for 20 years. Hep2o are trickier to work with it, so depends on you and your piece of mind. For a DIYer in your own home, the Hep2o might be the way?
Also with Speedfit there are two different pipe inserts depending on what you are joining to, with Hep2o there is just the one.
Good luck cashing in that "guarantee", though.
Interesting what you British folks use for plumbing. I take it that Shark Bites aren’t available there? (Been doing all new plumbing in my copper pipe filled house with Pex-A, but do occasionally have to use a SharkBite). Also, that piping seems a bit narrow, is it less than a ½ inch?
Sharkbite is the same as tectite, stainless teeth grip and not demountable. Hep2o actually used to be like that too, it wasn't demountable as it is now. The pipe is 15mm.
@ according to Shark Bite, their fittings can be re-used, which is what I think you mean by demountable (not a term I’ve heard used in the US).
Plumber here! Hummmm I don’t know man, leave it to the experts I’d say, get it wrong and you could destroy your house, trust me I’ve seen it, love your channel tho mate 👌
Until i can replace a burst mains stop cock i wont be trusting one to stop water for me to change an o ring again
If you're a plumber, why do you watch videos like this when you are well able to do it? (Given it's aimed at DIYers)
@@StuckInTheM1ddlecoz I watch his videos every week 🤷♂️
I'm a spark and I have to make sure I don't watch the electrical projects
@@dg2908 you should watch them and add your expertise into the mix.
I've started using fernox lsx on the olive as I never had much luck with PTFE.
I always spit on the rubber seals before push fitting
14:45 those who aren’t confident enough to to use a knife sandpaper works to
Why not just use braided hoses from the wall and feed those through?
Dropping the tap fittings in some hot water and descaler would be quicker than Amazon
I been connecting fitting compression joints for over 50 years now and have never in that time rapped PTFE tape around a compression fitting joint . In fact PTFE tape did not exists . But boss white did . A smear of that tighten job done . Not to say i never had a joint weep or leak would be a lie . But PTFE tape for me big no .
PTFE, jointing compound.. a smear of silicone grease.. all you're really doing is lubricating to achieve the compression forces with less torque applied. Doesn't matter which you go for.
Just saying and I expect lots of disagreement but I've never used inserts on plastic to plastic plastic. On traditional compression fittings always use the inserts... never had issues and done it that way for 15 years plus not saying it's wrong to use them but I don't thi k they are needed
Pushfit need to be marked on outside for FULL insertion. A mistake you only make ONCE 😢
Yes the speedfit pipe comes already marked. Cut on the mark, then insert to the mark. simples !
I like to add Flomasta plastic collet clips to the fittings. They prevent any fittings from coming off. Perfect when pipework is hidden in studwork.
It's not a 50 50 chance with which side the cold is... It'll be cold on the right
No to PTFE tape on compression fittings !
A smear of jointing paste that’s all ……
Looks like another great video, but had to give up with bleeding ears ua-cam.com/video/ST-AT3r_eP4/v-deo.html😁 Wish UA-cam offers two sound channels so producers can put narration and music separately, so we can alter the levels independently.
Hep2O have introduced a new fitting recently that can be removed without tools and locks similar to the Speedfit ones.
Better using 1/4 turn full bore lever valves than those ball valves.
Agree, I always use full bore valves on hot water.
Love the videos but no PTFE over an olive. Little bit of lubrication on the nut and that’s it.
Same for me, no PTFE on the olive. I usually put one and a half wraps on the thread, just for lubricant. Looks like he is using PTFE for gas fittings, hence the yellow spool.
puffta tape on comps 🤷🏼♂️
3ra
Thats not the
correct use of ptfe tape. It's for sealing over size threads. Use something like jet blue (or screwfixs cheaper sealing paste)
Rubbish, the use of ptfe tape in this video is correct.
PTFE tape isn't really "for sealing", it's mainly to prevent threads from binding together if / when they corrode. But it deforms enough to be used as a sealant for small gaps.
Totally agree. Not necessary to use PTFE on olives, just a smear of joining compound or Vaseline will suffice!!
About the copper fittings: you should never put the pipe all the way to the bottom of the fitting. If you leave just a little room, the compression ring has some space to compress. You won't need the teflon tape.
Just like Charlie DIYte, your've also picked Rag'n Brown's misuse of "offer up" (at 7:44)
Offer up means give as sacrifice to a deity, it doesn't mean aligning or adjusting or even dry fitting. There are plenty of correct words to describe this alignment job.
🥱
Holy pedantic plumbers😂
You’re not professional installer, the John guest, speed fits , requires installing , Collet locking clips inside the cavity walls or underneath the floors , what happens if someone uses Oliver puller they will pull out all fitting without those clips … you definitely don’t know a lot about speed fit fittings , the house insurance wouldn’t cover your insurance if there’s a leaks referring to any of those incidents … when you installer you need to know a lot about policies of buildings regs and house insurance , otherwise is not worth wasting a time and creating a bombshells…