You're welcome! This and the bow deck are my favorite part of the rebuild. Only thing I would do different would be to make the well about 2 inches larger. I got the bilge pump and float switch mounted but with the hose it was a tight fit.
It's always a pleasure to watch your handy work. And it was right in time with my pack of beef jerky, these videos are awesome and educational at the same time thanks much. 😊
Very nicely presented project. I have a J16, like yours it has no bilge. I think I've seen newer models that have them, but I have what I have (1999). I had never even considered the possibility of creating a bilge, and you showed there's a lot more depth to the hull than I had considered. Have you thought ahead as to how and where you will secure your gas tank? I use a typical plastic 6 gallon portable tank that sits under my rear casting deck, but is not well secured. For trailering I use a strap to loop around the deck but it can still slide around a bit. With your fiberglass skills I bet you could come up with a more secure installation.
I placed mine under the center console. I installed a short pc of 1x2 pvc to the deck to keep it from sliding out and put a rubber mat underneath it. So far it seems to be staying in place
Great question. Only real reason is when boat is out of the water plug can be pulled so its self draining. This way battery can be disconnected for the winter. If I was going to do it again I would seal up both original deck level plugs with fiberglass and just leave the bilge well plug.
Could you please describe where exactly should be the whole in the transom,I mean the water shouldn't be able to come back into the boat or maybe I am missing something 🤣...
Have there been any issues with the cut away area butting up against the transom- eg the area that the transom is no longer joined to the floor being weaker or pulling away from the bilge sump due to motor weight or movement? I am considering doing this, but am concerned about cutting away part of what connects the transom yet also having the bilge well in an optimal location.
Thanks for throwing in that little bit about having something to screw the Belge pump and switch to , that was a good reminder for me on my project.
Adding a bilge well was probably the best improvement I made to my J16. Whay would anyone want to stand in water LOL
@@DIYeasycrafts Exactly! I have a 1966 lone star mustang that I’ll be following similar design protocols. Thanks again dude
Thanks so much. Practical, real world solutions. You even show your mistakes. Very helpful.
You're welcome! This and the bow deck are my favorite part of the rebuild. Only thing I would do different would be to make the well about 2 inches larger. I got the bilge pump and float switch mounted but with the hose it was a tight fit.
It's always a pleasure to watch your handy work. And it was right in time with my pack of beef jerky, these videos are awesome and educational at the same time thanks much. 😊
Thanks so much for taking the time to leave me some feedback. We should have nice warm dry feet for duck hunting next Fall!!!
@@DIYeasycrafts sounds good. Looking forward
I’ll be doing this to my Cape Craft next week.
I would make it just a bit larger than mine. That way you have plenty of clearance for mounting the pump and floating switch
Very nicely presented project. I have a J16, like yours it has no bilge. I think I've seen newer models that have them, but I have what I have (1999). I had never even considered the possibility of creating a bilge, and you showed there's a lot more depth to the hull than I had considered.
Have you thought ahead as to how and where you will secure your gas tank? I use a typical plastic 6 gallon portable tank that sits under my rear casting deck, but is not well secured. For trailering I use a strap to loop around the deck but it can still slide around a bit. With your fiberglass skills I bet you could come up with a more secure installation.
I placed mine under the center console. I installed a short pc of 1x2 pvc to the deck to keep it from sliding out and put a rubber mat underneath it. So far it seems to be staying in place
apologize for my ignorance but how come you drilled a hole through the transom if you're running a hose up and out of the boat?
Great question. Only real reason is when boat is out of the water plug can be pulled so its self draining. This way battery can be disconnected for the winter. If I was going to do it again I would seal up both original deck level plugs with fiberglass and just leave the bilge well plug.
Could you please describe where exactly should be the whole in the transom,I mean the water shouldn't be able to come back into the boat or maybe I am missing something 🤣...
Hole through the hull gets sealed with a removable plug
Have there been any issues with the cut away area butting up against the transom- eg the area that the transom is no longer joined to the floor being weaker or pulling away from the bilge sump due to motor weight or movement? I am considering doing this, but am concerned about cutting away part of what connects the transom yet also having the bilge well in an optimal location.
No issues at all. Best modification I have made to date. My feet are dry!!
@@DIYeasycrafts good to hear! I've got a Carolina Skiff 1860 that's getting ready to get this same upgrade so thank you.