Hi Mat if you don’t mind me saying you don’t need to unwind back to 0.0 >>> it designed to stay where you set it , it’s most important that you don’t unwind more than the 0.8 or 1.0 Nm marker >>>> over wind by the 5.0 Nm >>>>> marker hope this helps.
I'm so glad you covered the different kits you can get. I've been meaning to pick up a torque screwdriver but was a bit lost as to which set was right for me
I recently decided to replace all my screwdrivers and was trying to decide between Wera and Wiha. I did a lot of research to weigh up all the features and benefits. In the end I chose Wiha. The Wiha torque screw driver and SlimVario system had a major contribution to my final decision. I'm now embracing Wiha tools with no regrets. Very happy customer 👍 Thanks for your videos, guys. Mike.
Another interesting vlog guys . I’m in the partly a believer camp due to my frustration with modern poor quality cheap as you can make terminals especially main switches and some cables being poorly made work hardened not annealed copper bar in pvc labelled as cable . I do have that very screwdriver kit and found some cables did NOT grip the conductors in a satisfactory manner . As I have mentioned before you need to wiggle the heavy cables in order to rearrange the round conductors in a square connector😏
Something to try. Put a suitable adaptor in an impact driver to fit a 10mm socket. Use this to tighten a nut and bolt. Then loosen the nut and bolt with a spanner. This will demonstrate just how much an impact driver will tighten things.
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Hi! Can you recommend a bit holder for the Wiha bits? The pouch is great, it just takes too much space from my toolbox.
if by mistake I have a screw tightened to 1 NM and i use this tool with a lower setting like 0.8 NM to loosen the screw the tool will click and won't allow me to turn. does this damage the accuracy of the tool ? and can you use the Vario S VDE bit holder with standard Vario S (non VDE) handle?
I completed Joe’s CPD on torque screwdriver and torque settings , i now have a better understanding of the impedance of them and as such my opinion has changed a bit , but I still disagree with you saying the required torque settings or the manufacturers required torque settings , in BS7671 it states two key words ,1) good workmanship and manufacturers instructions, it does not state required or manufacturers requirement at any point , it is simply a recommendation. I am now of the opinion that if you have a torque screwdriver then use it if you don’t have one then get one and use it. It’s no hardship , so yes I am happy to say I have one now and I do use it when needed.👍
Hi, Thanks for another great video. Just two questions. 1 Why don't manufacturers use standard settings across every RCD, MCB, RCBO,SPD's etc. It would make life easier If the BS7671 made recomended seting mandatory for manufacturers.? 2 If you do not reccomend the use of the torque screwdriver being used as a conventional screwdriver, Why do they supply them with conventional bits?
Hi Bill, 1 - manufacturers use different layouts and screw sizes and terminals- hence different torque settings. 2- You still need the correct bit to apply the final torque to the screws. The bits here are interchangeable between screwdrivers and the torque setting screwdriver.
That Quick Check device is £164.00 from an on line retailer with free next day delivery. I run two torque drivers the wiha as demonstrated and an armeg switch blade so I don't have to keep adjusting 💪🏻😎
True I had the draper one and it was ok, draper could have used better colours, always looked a bit fisher price to me, I got rid of it and got the wiha, only because I had a speede and a multi bit driver all of which took the vario bits, so made sense to switch
Please explain why more torque is required to loosen a screw. I have broken a few SL/PZ bits on Lewden boards and been in discussion with Tony Martin from Wiha regarding this. He mentioned that the driver is to be perpendicular to the screw (which I always do).
Generally less torque is required to loosen a screw compared to tightening. It’s a bit like pushing a car up a hill. Bits often snap (particularly slotted pozi) due to to quality of the screws - we’ll do a video about this.
I was once a non believer. Not now I am working for a manufacturing company of the products I once used, I have seen first hand the importance and the repercussion’s of not using the operate torque setting
Watch out for the range. The one in the video starts at 1 Nm which is already too high for some screw terminals. 2.5mm spacing ones are around 0.4Nm torque
That check box should have been made as a go/no-go box to make it truly useful and worth the money: At a fixed 2.8Nm it only tells you your driver is working on that sweet spot. Instead have a low and high setting (1.5 & 3.2 for instance) and it shows that the driver is correct across a _range_ not coincidentally correct at only one value (2.8=2.8 but 2.6=2.7, 2.4=2.6, etc.)
Is there a video showing the negative effects of over tightening terminals? That’s obvious for loose terminals but not so much of over tight? That might convince me to go and buy a torque screwdriver 😁
Wish they made the screw driver in lbs only because in the US all of the devices list their torque settings in lbs. having to do a conversion every time I want to use it would be annoying.
55 years, never used one, never will. You can "feel" when there is enough compression under the screws. I worry that the new generation of fitters will rely on these tools, only to find out later the wires have burned due to not being tight enough. On the other hand, only a fool would over tighten past the feel level. Call me old School, but I have NEVER had a fail using the old trusted method of feel, and instinct.
@@efixx it still shouldn't come loose, do you ever check your engine bolts or wheel nuts, once they are tightened that's it, and there's plenty of vibrations on a vehicle.
@@acelectricalsecurity If you change your wheels you should tighten the bolts to the specified torque. And you should repeat that tightening process a second time after driving between 50 and 100km with the vehicle. And when replacing a board you actually tighten so many screws, to check the others isn't that big of a deal. And you personally can ensure that every connection was fine when you installed the board.
@@Marcel_Germann that's not really my point, my point is, if the bolts are correctly tightened then there's no need for anyone to touch them, and yes I know it's a few bolts and we all do them, but really we don't need to, I knew the transportation thing would be mentioned, that's why I pointed out a vehicle as an example, and take the wheel thing out the equation, every bolt or nut on a vehicle will have a torque setting which nobody checks on a daily basis before they jump in and drive off.
I usually find a fingertip grip sufficient, at a pinch. Puns aside, the condition of wiring strands, sheath interference, ferrule fitment, tension, shouldn't be overlooked. I have seen some shocking examples. Sorry.
I called the EV technical support for troubleshooting and asked casually what torque I should use on their screws. “They are tough enough. Don’t need to worry about it.” I’m with eFixx but this came from the/a horses mouth.
Wiha need to update the look of their screwdrivers, because they’re loosing out to Wera, which in my experience, are an inferior product. The whole Wera experience is sold to the guys in a better way, and it seems to be working for them.
This bugs me. You harp on about following torque settings as per manufacture. Yet everything you did invalidates those torques. You are doubling over wires, the manufacturer tells you not too. Those ratings are for one single conductor stripped to the correct length and inserted. NOT a doubled over wire....
I will say again, are we asking the wrong question, should we be asking are the manufacturers torque settings too well defined! A range of tightnesses would be adequate for a particular application! Where is the science that shows a particular torque setting for a particular application is correct! How much research are manufacturers conducting to justify their torque setting specifications!
@@efixx I'm not an electrician most things that are tightened with a screwdriver in my work doesnt have a torque spec. Even thogh every thread pitch actually does but you would have to be pretty much a savant to keep it all memorised.
I bought Wiha screwdrivers to use as an American electrician, but they are absolutely garbage. Maybe because I am using them on American terminals, but i hate them because they always cam out and slip.
#AD - FEATURED tools - Wiha TorqueVario-S VDE electric
hub.efixx.co.uk/wiha-torque-set-amz
When finishing with the torque screwdriver always unwind to minimum torque, saves stretching spring + keeps it more accurate
Hi Mat if you don’t mind me saying you don’t need to unwind back to 0.0 >>> it designed to stay where you set it , it’s most important that you don’t unwind more than the 0.8 or 1.0 Nm marker >>>> over wind by the 5.0 Nm >>>>> marker hope this helps.
I'm so glad you covered the different kits you can get. I've been meaning to pick up a torque screwdriver but was a bit lost as to which set was right for me
I recently decided to replace all my screwdrivers and was trying to decide between Wera and Wiha. I did a lot of research to weigh up all the features and benefits. In the end I chose Wiha. The Wiha torque screw driver and SlimVario system had a major contribution to my final decision. I'm now embracing Wiha tools with no regrets. Very happy customer 👍
Thanks for your videos, guys. Mike.
Great feedback Mike
Bloody love this channel.
Yeah that's it! This must have definitely been made for me. I tighten the screws until they become dull in case they become loose and arc. 😅
Educational, and entertaining. Well done lads.
Thanks 👍🏻
Can you use the white blank bits as a setting. Say from 0.8 to 1.0 . The white in between will be 0.9.
Another interesting vlog guys .
I’m in the partly a believer camp due to my frustration with modern poor quality cheap as you can make terminals especially main switches and some cables being poorly made work hardened not annealed copper bar in pvc labelled as cable . I do have that very screwdriver kit and found some cables did NOT grip the conductors in a satisfactory manner . As I have mentioned before you need to wiggle the heavy cables in order to rearrange the round conductors in a square connector😏
You’ll enjoy the next video in the series - wiggle included
@@efixx I like a good wiggle
Something to try. Put a suitable adaptor in an impact driver to fit a 10mm socket. Use this to tighten a nut and bolt. Then loosen the nut and bolt with a spanner. This will demonstrate just how much an impact driver will tighten things.
Hi! Can you recommend a bit holder for the Wiha bits? The pouch is great, it just takes too much space from my toolbox.
Cracking video full of information well done 💪👍
if by mistake I have a screw tightened to 1 NM and i use this tool with a lower setting like 0.8 NM to loosen the screw the tool will click and won't allow me to turn. does this damage the accuracy of the tool ? and can you use the Vario S VDE bit holder with standard Vario S (non VDE) handle?
hi
can you give us all of the whys when you give top tips don't presume we know why
ie why not use vario to disconnect conductors
Thanks
I completed Joe’s CPD on torque screwdriver and torque settings , i now have a better understanding of the impedance of them and as such my opinion has changed a bit , but I still disagree with you saying the required torque settings or the manufacturers required torque settings , in BS7671 it states two key words ,1) good workmanship and manufacturers instructions, it does not state required or manufacturers requirement at any point , it is simply a recommendation. I am now of the opinion that if you have a torque screwdriver then use it if you don’t have one then get one and use it. It’s no hardship , so yes I am happy to say I have one now and I do use it when needed.👍
If you ignore the manufacturers instructions and something goes wrong you might struggle to defend any warrant or damages claims.
A really good tip is always wipe front to back!
Hi, Thanks for another great video. Just two questions.
1 Why don't manufacturers use standard settings across every RCD, MCB, RCBO,SPD's etc. It would make life easier
If the BS7671 made recomended seting mandatory for manufacturers.?
2 If you do not reccomend the use of the torque screwdriver being used as a conventional screwdriver, Why do they
supply them with conventional bits?
Hi Bill,
1 - manufacturers use different layouts and screw sizes and terminals- hence different torque settings.
2- You still need the correct bit to apply the final torque to the screws. The bits here are interchangeable between screwdrivers and the torque setting screwdriver.
That Quick Check device is £164.00 from an on line retailer with free next day delivery. I run two torque drivers the wiha as demonstrated and an armeg switch blade so I don't have to keep adjusting 💪🏻😎
Guess you could check one with the other?
Wiha is good, but maybe the best value for most is the Draper torque screwdriver set.
True I had the draper one and it was ok, draper could have used better colours, always looked a bit fisher price to me, I got rid of it and got the wiha, only because I had a speede and a multi bit driver all of which took the vario bits, so made sense to switch
Please explain why more torque is required to loosen a screw. I have broken a few SL/PZ bits on Lewden boards and been in discussion with Tony Martin from Wiha regarding this. He mentioned that the driver is to be perpendicular to the screw (which I always do).
Generally less torque is required to loosen a screw compared to tightening. It’s a bit like pushing a car up a hill. Bits often snap (particularly slotted pozi) due to to quality of the screws - we’ll do a video about this.
I was once a non believer. Not now I am working for a manufacturing company of the products I once used, I have seen first hand the importance and the repercussion’s of not using the operate torque setting
🙏
Watch out for the range. The one in the video starts at 1 Nm which is already too high for some screw terminals. 2.5mm spacing ones are around 0.4Nm torque
What kind of manic uses an impact driver on a MCB?
That check box should have been made as a go/no-go box to make it truly useful and worth the money:
At a fixed 2.8Nm it only tells you your driver is working on that sweet spot. Instead have a low and high setting (1.5 & 3.2 for instance) and it shows that the driver is correct across a _range_ not coincidentally correct at only one value (2.8=2.8 but 2.6=2.7, 2.4=2.6, etc.)
I'm just making a choice between a fixed 2.8nm and a screwdriver with adjustable nm and can't decide which one to choose
The PZ/S2 bits on this driver keep snapping the flat blade on 2.8nm while being rated at 5.5nm.
Is there a video showing the negative effects of over tightening terminals? That’s obvious for loose terminals but not so much of over tight? That might convince me to go and buy a torque screwdriver 😁
We are working on that atm
Is somewhere a list with brands parts and their torque settings?
That would be a good idea 👍
Wish they made the screw driver in lbs only because in the US all of the devices list their torque settings in lbs. having to do a conversion every time I want to use it would be annoying.
They are available in foot pounds
I use zs reading
🏆🏆🏆👍🙏🇺🇲
Thank you for sharing
Our pleasure!
Never used one, never had a problem in 40 years 🤷♂️
I'm kinda 50/50 regards the use of Torque screwdrivers but what kind of f**king eejit is using an impactor on a panel.
You’d be surprised 😮!
55 years, never used one, never will. You can "feel" when there is enough compression under the screws.
I worry that the new generation of fitters will rely on these tools, only to find out later the wires have burned due to not being tight enough.
On the other hand, only a fool would over tighten past the feel level.
Call me old School, but I have NEVER had a fail using the old trusted method of feel, and instinct.
Looks interesting. Doing a dist board next week, might have to look at HOW MUCH!!! Think I'll stick to the old calibrated elbow. 🤣
What I don't get, is why we have to check a manufacturers terminations of they have torqued then to the correct rating
Could have vibrated during transportation or been moved during installation of other devices.
@@efixx it still shouldn't come loose, do you ever check your engine bolts or wheel nuts, once they are tightened that's it, and there's plenty of vibrations on a vehicle.
@@acelectricalsecurity If you change your wheels you should tighten the bolts to the specified torque. And you should repeat that tightening process a second time after driving between 50 and 100km with the vehicle.
And when replacing a board you actually tighten so many screws, to check the others isn't that big of a deal. And you personally can ensure that every connection was fine when you installed the board.
@@Marcel_Germann that's not really my point, my point is, if the bolts are correctly tightened then there's no need for anyone to touch them, and yes I know it's a few bolts and we all do them, but really we don't need to, I knew the transportation thing would be mentioned, that's why I pointed out a vehicle as an example, and take the wheel thing out the equation, every bolt or nut on a vehicle will have a torque setting which nobody checks on a daily basis before they jump in and drive off.
@@acelectricalsecuritycars are designed to vibrate , consumer units aren't. Hope this answers it for you
i use draper ergo plus and the company gets it calibrated once every year
always, always back off the torque to 0 Nm when finished using the torque screwdriver
For DIY's like me buying such a driver for 100-200 EUR for replacing a timer for my poolpump is too much....
I usually find a fingertip grip sufficient, at a pinch.
Puns aside, the condition of wiring strands, sheath interference, ferrule fitment, tension, shouldn't be overlooked. I have seen some shocking examples. Sorry.
I called the EV technical support for troubleshooting and asked casually what torque I should use on their screws.
“They are tough enough. Don’t need to worry about it.”
I’m with eFixx but this came from the/a horses mouth.
Wiha need to update the look of their screwdrivers, because they’re loosing out to Wera, which in my experience, are an inferior product. The whole Wera experience is sold to the guys in a better way, and it seems to be working for them.
Compare the torque range between the two brands and you’ll see
My wrist is set to 4 nm.
So i use only 2 fingers and thumb which perfect at 2.3nm.😂
This bugs me. You harp on about following torque settings as per manufacture. Yet everything you did invalidates those torques. You are doubling over wires, the manufacturer tells you not too. Those ratings are for one single conductor stripped to the correct length and inserted. NOT a doubled over wire....
Doubled over wires do not cause any issue with the torque settings.
Stop waffling the pair of you and get on with it😂😂😂😂
All the faffing with torque settings is alot of faff. Good old wrist righting is fine.
I will say again, are we asking the wrong question, should we be asking are the manufacturers torque settings too well defined! A range of tightnesses would be adequate for a particular application! Where is the science that shows a particular torque setting for a particular application is correct! How much research are manufacturers conducting to justify their torque setting specifications!
We’ll find out - stay tuned!
Love these torque screwdrivers but I can't invent a need for them.
You must have loads of screwless stuff!
@@efixx I'm not an electrician most things that are tightened with a screwdriver in my work doesnt have a torque spec. Even thogh every thread pitch actually does but you would have to be pretty much a savant to keep it all memorised.
Lol, you guys if you are the same age as me.. you were taught in imperial measurements
The only torque setting you need is FT, F##king tight.
Until you damage the threads on the devices, then it becomes expensive.
We are burdened with regs courses and registration fee we don't need to spend our money on these screwdrivers
I bought Wiha screwdrivers to use as an American electrician, but they are absolutely garbage. Maybe because I am using them on American terminals, but i hate them because they always cam out and slip.
What type of terminals are you using over the pond?
When v have Electric screw driver torque gear from 1 nm to 5 nm why do v neet manual driver waste of money no need more unwanted tools