Yes the waterpump could be your leak source. They tend to leak more when the engine is running than when engine is off...and leak more at higher RPM like on the freeway when the engine/RPM/water pump is spinning faster. They do make some supposed water pump leak additives but I have never seen them actually work :( replacement is the only real option. You have not mentioned any of the common head gasket problems so I would say no at this time. Let it overheat real good just once...then yes!
The mechanic had the thermostat removed at the installation of a replacement/new engine to allow free flow of water or coolant into the engine. I got another radiator but keep loosing water after every 20km or less (in heavy traffic situation). 2. Is it right to remove thermostats from the car because the car is now being used in the tropics where the atmospheric temperature is high like Africa ,to prevent overheating?
Just make sure there are no kinks or restrictions in the radiator hoses that would reduce coolant flow. As a rule of thumb, I always replace the thermostat when replacing the radiator or where there was an overheating problem.
Excellent vid, one thing that's often overlooked is a faulty coolant reservoir CAP. If that leaks even a little bit, could lead to all sorts of problems......
Many thanks my stress level has gone down! I'm a 67 year old women and don't know anything about cars but I understood everything you said! I'm going to check the things I can and if I can fix it by myself will, only then will I take it to a mechanic and will feel more confident that I won't get ripped off!
yes that is a good idea to remove the air, and air pockets will reduce the coolant circulation and cause the overheating. Sometimes you have to drive around a bit and let the thermostat operate, run the heater, then come back and let it cool down and top off with coolant. You should not be able to easily squeeze together the upper rad hose with your hand when the engine is warm, or there is air inside or a coolant leak.
Thank you. Remember that "flushing" really doesn't do much and that the junk and mineral build up happens at the bottom of the radiator which can not be easily flushed out. A new radiator is usually the cure. Make sure there are no coolant leaks, no air in system, the engine IS actually running hot and not a gauge issue and the radiator is not restricted at the bottom. Upper and lower rad hoses should be able the same temp when running hot.If you have over 100K miles a restriction is possible
YOU ARE ALWAYS RIGHT #TrustMymechanic.i believe you and TRUST YOU!! I took my radiator for thorough check and cleaning.i thought my Daihatsu Feroza is dead but believe me NO MORE OVERHEATING,i felt the radiator cap it was cold as if in a refrigerator,not like before,it was so hot you wont attempt to feel it! Hey man,welcome to Kenya i give you a ride to Masai mara national park!
The bent fins are pretty normal, road debris and bugs etc. can easily damage the thin aluminum. The real issue is inside the radiator at the bottom, where mineral deposits and rust build up and restrict the flow of coolant. BUT, usually a radiator restriction problem shows up at highway speeds rather than slow speed or sitting in traffic. Keep us posted as to what happens.
TrustMyMechanic.com I've been told I have a blown head gasket or water pump I have a 2010 Town and country I no from the person I got it from it does need a new radiator. What should I believe also is the water pump for a 2010 Town and Country the same as it would be for a Dodge?
Did you do a cooling system pressure test? Check radiator cooling fan? When does it over heat, at idle or at freeway speed? Is there an air pocket in the system that needs to be bled out? You got homework :)
Thanks for the info. Very informative. I'm having trouble with my 2004 Durango. Replaced water pump and fan clutch. Coolant flushed out too and still running hotter than should be.
I have a 1999 Buick Park Ave. I need to know if it's the engine because it had overheated in they drove on it a little bit longer and I don't know what happen now there is a loud noise and someone said that it sounds like it's the engine I don't have anything that leaks I keep up on everything with The only thing I didn't do was add oil which I needed to do that day do I need to get a new engine or is there a fix I can do really need some help here
very informative video. i have a car that is overheating in idling and at stop lights. i just noticed the overheating when i stopped the car this morning from gym. i saw the coolant reservoir was empty and poured some and drove 8 miles for lunch. it over heated and touched the red zone. so i immediately stopped by pulling over. i waited for 10 minutes and the engine cooled a bit , so i started and drove the needle was much lower than before start. no leaks whatsoever. refilled more coolant
It could be, but since you saw smoke I would assume you probably have a coolant leak spraying water on the engine, so get a cooling system pressure test first to rule out an external or internal coolant leak. Then check the inside of the radiator for a restriction or heavy rust build up. If you see rust/mineral deposits inside then the bottom of the radiator will be heavily restricted and could be your overheating issue.
This guys family has been in the auto repair business for over 63 years so he's an expert. This video helped me solve my over heating problem in 10 minutes. He was a technical consultant on a car maintenance software program www.lonewolf-software.com/automotivewolf.htm you can use on your computer to monitor and manage your vehicle maintenance schedules. All the maintenance schedule requirements in the program are from this guy (Austin Davis). I've been using the software for over 8 years and both my vehicles are always running great and it has saved my a lot of money in repairs.
Yes, first things first. Get a cooling system pressure test to determine if you have an internal or external coolant leak. Are you sure it is actually overheating and not a gauge problem? Can you open the hood and listen for boiling over? When engine is overheating make sure radiator fans are ON, and squeeze the upper radiator hose (use a rag will be very hot) and make sure you are not able to squeeze it together, should have pressure on it.
Sounds like there could be a restriction in the radiator, which will require a new one not "flushing". Lack of coolant circulation is probably the issue and with the lower hose cold, it only tells me there is rust/mineral deposits at the bottom of the radiator preventing that coolant to flow.
Sorry for my delay, have been out of town on a roadtrip vacation with family. If you are adding coolant you DO have a leak somewhere in the system. I would get a cooling system pressure test first to help locate any possible internal or external coolant leaks. 2. Check the electric radiator cooling fan operation (should cycle on and off) 3. Check for a restriction at the bottom of the radiator, both radiator hoses should be about the same temp when engine is warm. 4. Check thermostat
Have you checked to make sure the electric cooling fans are coming on and off? Check coolant level, check for leaks if low. Check radiator for a restriction if the overheating seems to happen after long freeway driving at higher speeds then coming to a stop.
If you are DRIVING at freeway speeds or basically any speed other than sitting still at idle then I would check your radiator for a restriction at the bottom, check to make sure you are full of coolant in the radiator and there are no leaks. Overheating while sitting at idle or very slow speeds usually is a coolant fan issue, but while driving or at fast speeds is usually a radiator or lack of coolant circulation issue.
More than welcome. If you think you have a coolant leak then you need a Cooling System Pressure Tester. A compression tester is used on the engine to determine if there is internal wear/damage.
Great video.. im not a mechanic but you taught me a lot especially safety issues concerning checking out these car parts.Thank you for making it where anyone can understand.
Yea those I am not having any of those symptoms. No smoke or milky oil but there is air getting into the system somehow. Thank you once again for your help!
Is it low on coolant? If so and you can not see the leak, get a cooling system pressure test to find the leak. If the radiator is full, and there are no leaks. Check the electric radiator cooling fan and make sure it is coming on at idle when the engine is warm. Then check for a restriction in the radiator. Both upper and lower radiator hoses should be able the same temperature.
First thing that comes to mind is an electric radiator cooling fan problem, do you have one on this vehicle? Second thing that comes to mind is just low coolant level due to a leak somewhere, third thing that comes to mind is lack of air flow across the radiator...is anything in front for the radiator blocking air flow? Last thing is a restriction at the bottom of the radiator. Giving it some gas at idle speeds up the waterpump and fan so waterpump is working fine.
It is normal for the water level in the plastic "over flow" reservoir to rise and fall as the engine reaches normal operating temperature. You need to keep an eye on the radiator coolant level, if that falls then you probably have a coolant leak somewhere and a cooling system pressure test can help you locate the leak. If the coolant level inside the radiator stays full, you should be ok as long as there is not an overheating issue.
Usually means there is not enough air flow across the radiator, and a cooling fan problem is probably the issue. Always start with a cooling system pressure test to see if you have an internal or external coolant leak, check upper and lower radiator hoses when engine is at normal operating temp to see if they are the same temp (if not, a radiator restriction is likely) and make sure there are no air pockets in cooling system.
I still suspect a problem with the electric cooling fans or you have a radiator that is restricted with gunk at the bottom not allowing coolant to flow fast enough throughout the engine. Double check that the electric fans are coming on then feel the upper and lower radiator hoses (caution they will be hot, or should be hot) they should be about the same temperature when the engine is at normal temp. If not, you have a radiator restriction or an air pocket in the cooling system.
Well, yes that could be a sign of internal engine coolant leak, like a headgasket and it could be possible. I would also expect to see constant coolant loss, white smoke out tailpipe, coolant in engine oil sometimes, an engine miss and running bad because coolant is getting on spark plugs. I have a video in my channel talking about a headgasket sealer you might want to watch it. A pressure test should reveal the leak though and will not hold pressure with HG leak.A rad restriction is still high
The spring type clamps are superior to any screw/worm clamp. During temperature and seasonal changes the worm clamps can and will leak if not tightened and retightened. The springs clamps never will be loose or leak due to temperature changed as the spring will always tighten.
Great, keep us posted as to what you find out. Yes, white smoke/steam under the hood would indicate an external coolant leak spraying coolant on the hot engine.
so you already replaced the radiator? Check the coolant level inside the radiator, if low you have a leak somewhere and need to get a pressure test to help you find it. Check upper and lower radiator hoses when engine is warm, they should be able the same temperature. if not, you have a restriction somewhere or there are air pockets in the system that need to be bled out. Getting air in the system after a rad replacement is pretty common. Engine warm, upper rad hose should be hard to squeeze
Usually when that happens its due to a restriction in the radiator or some other coolant restriction like a stuck thermostat, or from lack of airflow across the radiator. Make sure the radiator is full of coolant, check upper and lower rad hoses when engine is warm (they should be close to same temperature) and that there is plenty of airflow across the radiator...ie. cooling fans working, or manual fan is turning fast enough.
Thankyou this has helped me a lot, I have a 2002 Chrysler sebring convertible Lx 2.4L , My temperature gauge jumps up sometimes when I accelerate too hard, I came home parked in the driveway , I noticed I have a Leak in the front, I think its oil, I need to buy a compression test to see where its coming from. I'l be back on here to comment when I find out more.
Get a cooling system pressure test first, rule out any external or internal leaks, then check the radiator for a restriction at the bottom. Both upper and lower radiator hoses should be about the same temperature when the engine is hot. If not, there is low coolant or air pockets in the system or a coolant restriction somewhere. The HEATER should be blowing hot air when engine is hot, if not, low coolant level or lack of coolant circulation in the engine is happening.
Thanks this helped a lot I was stumped by my car overheating with recurring antifreeze refills today, I'm so mad have an old 99 Toyota Camry and it just keeps overheating when I run on the freeway. I need to pressure test it and check for any blockage and leaks for sure.
Yes, the water inside the radiator will go up and down slightly, and you should see or might see rise in the overflow bottle on the side. You should not be able to see the "cores" inside the radiator though, those should stay covered with coolant. Just make sure the radiator is full to the top with coolant when the engine is off, and there are no coolant leaks.
I would get a cooling system pressure test and rule out either an internal (headgasket) leak or an external leak you are missing and that leak is not allowing the system to hold pressure, also test the radiator cap. If no leaks, I would check to make sure the engine is actually running hot and not a gauge problem. I would use a thermal thermometer on the engine to verify temperature. Also make sure there are no air pockets in the system.
My head gasket is fine, i have mentioned white smoke but not from the exhaust i am guessing some leak fell on the radiator caused the white smoke. I will do the pressure test to find where the leak is coming from. I'll keep you updated , thanks for your help.
Its possible, but if the temp sending unit was faulty I would expect to see it overheating at all speeds. Check to make sure you have a radiator full of coolant and there are no air pockets in the system that need to be bled out. Also make sure there is plenty of air flow across the radiator and nothing in front of the radiator that is blocking air flow. Also make sure the upper and lower radiator hoses are both same temp when engine is hot. If not, low on coolant,a leak, or air in the system.
TrustMyMechanic.com .. Excellent... My car went hot when I was in traffic light.. When I drove it it went down .. But it happen few times but then it never happen ...what do you think what happen.. Plz answer
Are you sure there are no air pockets in the coolant that need to be bled out? Double check the coolant level inside the radiator to make sure it is completely full. Other things that can cause this. Anything restricting air flow across the radiator, ignition timing that is set to far advanced, even low engine oil could be a factor. I would also make double sure the new radiator is the same width as the old one. same number of "rows" and now narrower or smaller than old one.
I would first check to see if you have an exhaust leak under the hood at the exhaust manifold or flange gasket connection at the manifold to the exhaust pipe or under the vehicle in the exhaust pipe/muffler/converter that is leaking fumes inside the vehicle. Also check to see if you have an oil leak, which can smell like exhaust inside the vehicle. I would also use the RECIRCULATION setting for the a/c and not use the fresh air setting to see if that helps.
It could be a restriction in the radiator. But first, I would check this. 1. Open radiator, if low on coolant get a cooling system pressure test to find leak. 2. Check for an air pocket that might be trapped in the coolant, bled out any air that might be in the system. This air can get trapped after doing a coolant type repair. 3. Make sure there are no coolant or air flow restrictions. Air flow across the radiator and coolant flow going through the radiator. Upper/ lower rad hoses same temp
You sure the coolant level is full inside the radiator? Steam under the hood means, coolant/water came in contact with the hot engine, so I would assume you have an external leak somewhere. Although, a radiator that is restricted at the bottom can cause overheating, then coolant to escape out the overflow bottle onto the hot engine and produce the steam. Radiator problems usually show up at higher speeds and or extended driving times at higher speed (meaning not slow or idle speed)
Thanks man this really helped me out I have a 2003 Dodge ram 1500 that does run hot on the highway and at idle speeds replaced fan clutch and radiator which stopped problem and it gets really hot out here in Killeen TX too
excellent video, I would have to say though always check the lower radiator hose condition as well as when you check the top, in addition if your having overheating issues at highway speeds and you know its been a long time since you've flushed the system running on dirty coolant, it would be a good idea to check the water pump as well, I had the waterpumps internal propeller on my 98 f150 dissolve due to running on old coolant BTW headgasket test kits can be rented from AutoZone fairly cheap
If you can see corrosion or mineral or rust build up at the top of the radiator it will be MUCH worse at the bottom of the radiator, so yes your overheating problems could be due to a restriction in the radiator and its time for a new one. I always replace the thermostat when I replace the radiator, just as general maintenance. The overflow bottle will rise and fall as the engine and thermostat thermostat opens and closes off the coolant flow.
You are such a nice man!!!!! I wish YOU could be MY mechanic!!!!!! thank you so very much for the video...Hoping you have made more videos like this because you are soooo helpful!!!!
Does the engine run hot? Are the electric cooling fans coming on? is there pressure on the upper radiator hose when the engine is hot? You should have trouble squeezing the upper hose together (use a rag it will be very hot). if it is not hard to squeeze you have a leak somewhere or a bad radiator cap that is not holding pressure inside the system.
You want to get a cooling system PRESSURE Test to help locate a leak, if you have one. A compression test will help you determine if there is internal wear inside the cylinders, which I dont think is your issue. You should be able to get an aftermarket radiator for about $150-200 or you might see if you have a radiator shop in your area that can "boil out" yours, sometimes its better to get a new one than try and mess with your old one though.
USUALLY when that happens it is because the engine is running hotter than it should and boiling over inside the radiator to the overflow bottle, which is why it is there. But, the running hot issue has to be addressed. Could be due to a coolant leak (get a cooling system pressure test) or it could be due to a restriction in the bottom of the radiator and a new radiator is the answer. Rule out a leak, check electric radiator cooling fans, check radiator for restriction.
First, check the coolant level in the radiator and top off as needed. Second, Do you have an electric cooling fan up near the radiator? Most cars have at least one electric cooling fan for the radiator and that fan should cycle on and off at idle or slow speeds as the engine heats up. Double check that fan operation at idle. If you have 2 fans, one is for the A/C compressor and should come on when the A/C compressor clutch kicks on.
Get a cooling system pressure test first to see if there is a leak somewhere. Then check cooling fan motors and switches, then check radiator for a restriction. If low on coolant fans will not be able to do their job because the sensor can not read the temperature of the coolant to turn on the fans.
I just bleed it with the engine off technique ,, and no more overheat...but I am gonna pressure test it..my mechanic done that before...and about the o2 censors I did notice a 2 mpg drop..thank you for sharing your input
I am not thinking headgasket from what you have shared with me. If it runs hot again, turn on the heater blower on high and see if the temp goes down. If is does, you are either low on coolant and have a small leak, there is air in the system still or the radiator has gunk at the bottom and restricting coolant flow. The AC is just an added load the radiator is unable to handle. If i was going to "guess I would replace the radiator if I am sure all air has been bled out.
Get a cooling system pressure test to rule out the possibility of a small coolant leak, but this could be due to a radiator that is slightly restricted at the bottom and allowing just enough coolant to flow as to break even on the temp gauge. What you are seeing COULD be normal, I would have to see it personally. I would feel the upper and lower radiator hoses after your long trip and see if they are about the same temp, they should be close. If upper is hotter than lower, radiator restriction
As long as there are NO coolant leaks and you are not constantly adding coolant to the system I would lean toward a problem with the radiator...a restriction at the bottom that can not be flushed out. When its running hot, feel the upper and lower radiator hoses, they should be pretty close to same temp. If not, there is air in the system that needs to be bled out, there is a leak and not enough coolant, or a restriction is happening. Does that help? Probably not an issue with the fan clutch.
In 17 years I've only had 1 bypass hose which ruptured, other than that I still have all the original hoses from 275,000 miles ago. They have outlasted 3 radiators, a thermostat, and a water control valve, I'm hanging on until they start bulging or rupture. They cost to much to be replacing as preventive maintenance. I probably would have changed all the hoses 3-4 times and spent around 300-400 bux along the way.
Did you get the cooling system pressure test to rule out a leak? Did you have the radiator checked for a restriction? Are all water hoses hot when engine is warm?
Top man. I have an overheating seat Water pump changed thermostat changed Pressure test done and still overheating Radiator next to check? It only overheats on freeway not when idle.
Sounds like lack of coolant flowing inside the engine. Could be that the water pump is wrong and the impeller is backwards from the original (rare but seen it) or it could be that the thermostat is stuck (I would just replace it anyway as a cheap guess). I would also make sure this is not a gauge problem and the engine is really overheating. remove the radiator cap and see if you can see any coolant circulating with the engine running, you should.
Hummm from what you have told me my gut still tells me there is a radiator restriction/low coolant circulation or air pockets in the coolant type of situation. Overheating after driving longer distances and with the A/C on (which is an added drain on the cooling system) usually means the radiator is not doing a good enough job at removing the heat. This radiator is super small and thin and does not take much to restrict it. Can you look inside the radiator and see ANY rust or mineral deposits
If no hot coolant is circulating in the system, either due to not enough coolant or a restriction in the radiator, a large air pocket in the system not allowing coolant to flow or a stuck thermostat then you will not have hot air from the heater. Both upper and lower rad hoses should be about the same temp, and both heater hoses should be pretty darn hot too when the engine is at normal temp, about 210
WHat do you think of Evans Waterless Coolant. I've used it in my SUV and there is no pressure. I can drive it with the radiator cap off even. It boils at 375F. I think its an amazing preventative maintenance and if someone's got an old clunker with a overheating issue Evans would make a great "band aid" for that problem.
Great video. My Trams am is overheating when I'm stop at a Red light. I will check the fans. When I start moving and picking up speed the needle goes back to normal. Only when I'm stop at a red light the needle goes all the way up
make sure the radiator is full of coolant and there are no air pockets in the system that need to be bled out. With the engine at normal temp, you really should not be able to squeeze together the top radiator hose with your hands, if you can there is a leak somewhere or air in the system. Also upper and lower radiator hoses should be about the same temp, or the radiator is probably restricted at the bottom and needs to be replaced.
usually it is a bad cooling fan motor, but can also be a cooling fan sensor problem. The sensor measures coolant temp then sends the signal to the fan motor to come on of turn off.
Those vehicle are notorious for small headgasket seeps, but if the engine is not overheating and you are not having to continually add coolant I would not worry to much about it. I do have a really good headgasket sealer additive I show in my youtube channel....."best headgaket sealer" you might want to try it and see if it helps.
Yes it could be a problem with the fan motor or the sensor to the motor. Did the A/C compressor clutch click on when you turned on the A/C? The part that the fan belt is attached to, that is the clutch and will make a click noise and spin the compressor when you turn on the A/C. IF the compressor is out of Freon, it will not come on, and neither will the fan. let the car idle until it warms up, does the fan come on and off, it should. Take a broom stick and give it a push and a tap.
hi, thanks for the response. I had an almost zero coolant and I posted it after i filled the reservoir and drove 8 miles, it reached the red zone and i stopped and after letting it cool till next morning, i saw the fuel level went down and filled more and drove and found it is not heating up until there is coolant. i parked at several places and found there r two spots there is oil spillage. i also saw a lot of fresh oil deposit behind the engine. i am gonna check with my mechanic and see
What if you find oil in the overflow tank and on the radiator cap? Can it be a cracked head or seal? Thank you. I hope 🤞 to hear from me. I don’t want to blow up the engine. Yes I am a woman doing the work. Almost to old to be doing this stuff.
I just went through this problem with my 05 navigator with the 5.4 engine, driving on the freeway, noticed that the temp gauges went into the red line. Got off the next exit, found a place to park an pop the hood to see what going on. Had to sit there for fifteen minutes to cool down. Looked at the reservoir and it was sitting the low mark, but it still had coolent. After cooling off, I drove a little slower, went to auto part retailers and purchased some 50/50 coolent and topped it off. Drove it home, next day, drove awhile,, and the gauges indicated it was starting to over heat. Next day I got radiator pressure tester and the fitting to test the reservoir bottle and cap. The tool and adapter didn't seal, had to use some pipe sealant tape to get it to pressurize. Was able to pressurize, but was leak at the threads of the adapter. Same with the adapter for testing the cap. I had purchased a new thermostat when I got the testing tool, but I had not installed it yet. I returned the testing tools and purchased a new pressure cap after noticing that the rubber gasket in the cap was worn down. Put the new cap on then took a test drive and monitored my scan tool for the coolant temperature. After the engine got to temp and stable, I continued drive at freeway speeds for fifteen minutes. The coolent temp stayed steady plus or minus the thermostat rating, problem solved.
Do you only have 1 electric fan up near the radiator? Some cars have 2, 1 for the A.C and one for the radiator. The ac fan will or should come on when the compressor comes on. If you are low on Freon, the compressor will not come on and neither will the condenser fan under the hood. I would start with checking the Freon level and pressure with gauges, then check for power to the fan motor. But to answer your question, usually the motor itself goes out...but maybe not in your case.
...there was a significant amount of air bubbles coming up from the bottle and I filled it with coolant as it went down. Once I no longer saw any bubbles for a couple minutes I turned the car off. Some of the coolant over flowed out of the reservoir tank but I was told this would occur. I'm going to drive it to work again tomorrow and see how it does. If that fails I was suggested to take it to a mechanic, that it might be my Head Gasket. What do you think? Thank you for your response! :)
If your radiator is leaking you will need to replace it, have not seen a sealer or additive that works on the newer plastic radiator. Fans might not be coming on because they are getting a signal from the coolant temp sensor and if there no coolant the sensor might not work.
You need to get a cooling system pressure test to find the leak. Could be anything, a radiator or heater hose, water pump, radiator etc. etc. I would assume it is something like that above and not a headgasket or anything really really expensive.
Well, you should get a cooling system pressure test first if you can not easily see where the coolant leak is coming from. I would suspect that coolant is getting on the fan belt, causing the noise? Maybe a bad water pump, or could be a radiator hose spitting coolant on the belt which will make a squeeking/chirping noise. I would also make sure the electric cooling fan on the radiator is coming on when at idle.
Excellent video and information. We recently had our trans rebuilt on a ford taurus (trans leaking now and still hasn't been repaired because repair man putting us off). The next day the engine light came on and comes to find out it was a fuse by the transmission. Now the car is overheating shakes and cuts off. Any thoughts?
You see drips of water coming from the muffler under the vehicle??? There is a small moisture drain hole in the muffler itself to let water from condensation drip out. The steam is probably just condensation...as long as it goes away after the engine warms up. You say it IS overheating?? You ARE having to add coolant regularly?? Most info please.
Yes, you can probably still drive it BUT now that we have a YELLOW check engine light and a roughness/shaky complaint you mentioned earlier I am starting to believe you do have a missfire type of problem. Could be a bad spark plug wire or ignition coil problem or something more serious. The engine light is on because the computer sees a problem and has stored a code in memory for your mechanic to read and troubleshoot.
These vehicles are difficult to bleed air from the system. Check for any other coolant leaks, check radiator electric fan motor, check temp of lower and upper rad hoses to see if they are the same and both have pressure on them. Turn on the heater inside the car to help remove air pockets from the system, then top off radiator with coolant. Heater should be HOT, if not you got air in system still. If you are still stumped try a new thermostat, its a quick and cheap guess to rule things out.
The shaking....does the engine feel like it is misfiring? Dose the engine perform normal and have power like it should? If those items are ok, the shaking could be just a vibration issue like from a bad or worn engine mount, or it could be due to a missfire, and a cylinder is not performing properly. If you are not loosing coolant and not overheating, I would not really suspect an internal coolant leak, or headgasket type of problem but still need it checked out to be sure.
first off thank u for the video I don't know where to start I need to know if I have a fixable problem or if I'm screwed car overheated on a hot day it holds pressure has heat air works changed waterpump fans work unless it has a shortage two things that appears strange to me is when the radiator hose is squeezed it makes a clicking sound over at the radiator area and when I take off the radiator cap the coolant was just running over spilling out while engine is cold
Its possible that you have a gauge problem, but its VERY rare. You did the pressure test and there are no leak? You checked the radiator for a restriction and there is none, you checked for air in the cooling system that needs to be bled out, you checked the electric cooling fan on the radiator and it is working? If all those come out ok, then have a mechanic check the temperature sending unit, that tells the dashgauge how how the engine is. its cheap part, if you want to just guess and replace
Well, I would make sure the cooling fan is working, there is not a coolant leak and the radiator is full, and there are no air pockets in the cooling system. I would not remove the fan just yet, figure out if there is power to the motor first. You might have a bad fan motor or a bad cooling fan temperature switch that is not sending data to the fan motor.
If you can't see where the leak is coming from with your naked eye, then get a "cooling system pressure test" (which is fast and cheap) to locate the leak. If you don't have any white smoke coming from the exhaust pipe I would not worry to much about the white chalk stuff, but after I repaired the leak I might flush out the cooling system and add new coolant.
Yes the waterpump could be your leak source. They tend to leak more when the engine is running than when engine is off...and leak more at higher RPM like on the freeway when the engine/RPM/water pump is spinning faster.
They do make some supposed water pump leak additives but I have never seen them actually work :( replacement is the only real option. You have not mentioned any of the common head gasket problems so I would say no at this time. Let it overheat real good just once...then yes!
The mechanic had the thermostat removed at the installation of a replacement/new engine to allow free flow of water or coolant into the engine. I got another radiator but keep loosing water after every 20km or less (in heavy traffic situation).
2. Is it right to remove thermostats from the car because the car is now being used in the tropics where the atmospheric temperature is high like Africa ,to prevent overheating?
Just make sure there are no kinks or restrictions in the radiator hoses that would reduce coolant flow. As a rule of thumb, I always replace the thermostat when replacing the radiator or where there was an overheating problem.
Excellent vid, one thing that's often overlooked is a faulty coolant reservoir CAP. If that leaks even a little bit, could lead to all sorts of problems......
That will show up with the pressure test.
@@garybaris139how? The cap won’t be on at all
Many thanks my stress level has gone down! I'm a 67 year old women and don't know anything about cars but I understood everything you said! I'm going to check the things I can and if I can fix it by myself will, only then will I take it to a mechanic and will feel more confident that I won't get ripped off!
learned alot from only watching a couple of your videos, thank you.
yes that is a good idea to remove the air, and air pockets will reduce the coolant circulation and cause the overheating. Sometimes you have to drive around a bit and let the thermostat operate, run the heater, then come back and let it cool down and top off with coolant. You should not be able to easily squeeze together the upper rad hose with your hand when the engine is warm, or there is air inside or a coolant leak.
You do not need to go to 20 pounds for a psi test. Maximum you will need is 15 or 16.
Magna Norris fuck no Max is 13 going over that you’re going to mess a o ring up or seal
@@Jorgetherealtor Fuck Jorge you are wrong This time,my Acura TL has a 16psi cap.
Normally radiator caps are rated at close to atmospheric pressure of 1 bar (14.5 psi) +/- 10%.
Thank you. Remember that "flushing" really doesn't do much and that the junk and mineral build up happens at the bottom of the radiator which can not be easily flushed out. A new radiator is usually the cure. Make sure there are no coolant leaks, no air in system, the engine IS actually running hot and not a gauge issue and the radiator is not restricted at the bottom. Upper and lower rad hoses should be able the same temp when running hot.If you have over 100K miles a restriction is possible
YOU ARE ALWAYS RIGHT #TrustMymechanic.i believe you and TRUST YOU!! I took my radiator for thorough check and cleaning.i thought my Daihatsu Feroza is dead but believe me NO MORE OVERHEATING,i felt the radiator cap it was cold as if in a refrigerator,not like before,it was so hot you wont attempt to feel it! Hey man,welcome to Kenya i give you a ride to Masai mara national park!
Awesome, I hope to take you up on your offer one day :)
What was the problem
@@justincooper3211 over heating
The bent fins are pretty normal, road debris and bugs etc. can easily damage the thin aluminum. The real issue is inside the radiator at the bottom, where mineral deposits and rust build up and restrict the flow of coolant. BUT, usually a radiator restriction problem shows up at highway speeds rather than slow speed or sitting in traffic. Keep us posted as to what happens.
TrustMyMechanic.com I've been told I have a blown head gasket or water pump I have a 2010 Town and country I no from the person I got it from it does need a new radiator. What should I believe also is the water pump for a 2010 Town and Country the same as it would be for a Dodge?
I changed my radiator,thermostat, and water pump..stIll overheats 'm lost on my 2000 Chevy venture 3.8
Did you do a cooling system pressure test? Check radiator cooling fan? When does it over heat, at idle or at freeway speed? Is there an air pocket in the system that needs to be bled out? You got homework :)
bad catalytic converter ?
Was it over heating and did it stop
blown head gasket .....
NOBOX7 my 2003 chevrolet venture is smoking from under the hood in the back on the passenger side and my service engine light is flashing off and on
Thanks for the info. Very informative. I'm having trouble with my 2004 Durango. Replaced water pump and fan clutch. Coolant flushed out too and still running hotter than should be.
I have a 1999 Buick Park Ave. I need to know if it's the engine because it had overheated in they drove on it a little bit longer and I don't know what happen now there is a loud noise and someone said that it sounds like it's the engine I don't have anything that leaks I keep up on everything with The only thing I didn't do was add oil which I needed to do that day do I need to get a new engine or is there a fix I can do really need some help here
very informative video. i have a car that is overheating in idling and at stop lights. i just noticed the overheating when i stopped the car this morning from gym. i saw the coolant reservoir was empty and poured some and drove 8 miles for lunch. it over heated and touched the red zone. so i immediately stopped by pulling over. i waited for 10 minutes and the engine cooled a bit , so i started and drove the needle was much lower than before start. no leaks whatsoever. refilled more coolant
greetings from South Africa, nice video.
Imre Csoka /Ay ni yo estudié en cuenta tu Thousand One ventro echarleI need troubleshooting heating up in the 2001 Chevrolet
You are more than welcome, thank you so much for the kind words. Yes, I have more videos in my youtube channel for you to watch. Have a great week.
well i have rust in my cooling would that cause my car to overheat
It could be, but since you saw smoke I would assume you probably have a coolant leak spraying water on the engine, so get a cooling system pressure test first to rule out an external or internal coolant leak. Then check the inside of the radiator for a restriction or heavy rust build up. If you see rust/mineral deposits inside then the bottom of the radiator will be heavily restricted and could be your overheating issue.
This guys family has been in the auto repair business for over 63 years so he's an expert. This video helped me solve my over heating problem in 10 minutes. He was a technical consultant on a car maintenance software program www.lonewolf-software.com/automotivewolf.htm you can use on your computer to monitor and manage your vehicle maintenance schedules. All the maintenance schedule requirements in the program are from this guy (Austin Davis). I've been using the software for over 8 years and both my vehicles are always running great and it has saved my a lot of money in repairs.
I use the Automotive Wolf software too. It's great :)
Yes, first things first. Get a cooling system pressure test to determine if you have an internal or external coolant leak. Are you sure it is actually overheating and not a gauge problem? Can you open the hood and listen for boiling over? When engine is overheating make sure radiator fans are ON, and squeeze the upper radiator hose (use a rag will be very hot) and make sure you are not able to squeeze it together, should have pressure on it.
failed to mention about water pump for the belt
Sounds like there could be a restriction in the radiator, which will require a new one not "flushing". Lack of coolant circulation is probably the issue and with the lower hose cold, it only tells me there is rust/mineral deposits at the bottom of the radiator preventing that coolant to flow.
hi, every time i drive for only 30 minutes my radiator is always empty with coolant though i didn't see any leak on it. need your help. thanks
You need to get a cooling system pressure test to help you locate the source of the leak.
Sorry for my delay, have been out of town on a roadtrip vacation with family. If you are adding coolant you DO have a leak somewhere in the system. I would get a cooling system pressure test first to help locate any possible internal or external coolant leaks.
2. Check the electric radiator cooling fan operation (should cycle on and off)
3. Check for a restriction at the bottom of the radiator, both radiator hoses should be about the same temp when engine is warm.
4. Check thermostat
Have you checked to make sure the electric cooling fans are coming on and off? Check coolant level, check for leaks if low. Check radiator for a restriction if the overheating seems to happen after long freeway driving at higher speeds then coming to a stop.
If you are DRIVING at freeway speeds or basically any speed other than sitting still at idle then I would check your radiator for a restriction at the bottom, check to make sure you are full of coolant in the radiator and there are no leaks. Overheating while sitting at idle or very slow speeds usually is a coolant fan issue, but while driving or at fast speeds is usually a radiator or lack of coolant circulation issue.
More than welcome. If you think you have a coolant leak then you need a Cooling System Pressure Tester. A compression tester is used on the engine to determine if there is internal wear/damage.
Great video.. im not a mechanic but you taught me a lot especially safety issues concerning checking out these car parts.Thank you for making it where anyone can understand.
Yea those I am not having any of those symptoms. No smoke or milky oil but there is air getting into the system somehow. Thank you once again for your help!
Is it low on coolant? If so and you can not see the leak, get a cooling system pressure test to find the leak. If the radiator is full, and there are no leaks.
Check the electric radiator cooling fan and make sure it is coming on at idle when the engine is warm.
Then check for a restriction in the radiator. Both upper and lower radiator hoses should be able the same temperature.
First thing that comes to mind is an electric radiator cooling fan problem, do you have one on this vehicle? Second thing that comes to mind is just low coolant level due to a leak somewhere, third thing that comes to mind is lack of air flow across the radiator...is anything in front for the radiator blocking air flow? Last thing is a restriction at the bottom of the radiator. Giving it some gas at idle speeds up the waterpump and fan so waterpump is working fine.
Great video thanks!! But I was waiting for you to touch on the fan clutch wearing out over time and not engaging the fan which effects the cooling!
It is normal for the water level in the plastic "over flow" reservoir to rise and fall as the engine reaches normal operating temperature. You need to keep an eye on the radiator coolant level, if that falls then you probably have a coolant leak somewhere and a cooling system pressure test can help you locate the leak. If the coolant level inside the radiator stays full, you should be ok as long as there is not an overheating issue.
Usually means there is not enough air flow across the radiator, and a cooling fan problem is probably the issue. Always start with a cooling system pressure test to see if you have an internal or external coolant leak, check upper and lower radiator hoses when engine is at normal operating temp to see if they are the same temp (if not, a radiator restriction is likely) and make sure there are no air pockets in cooling system.
I still suspect a problem with the electric cooling fans or you have a radiator that is restricted with gunk at the bottom not allowing coolant to flow fast enough throughout the engine. Double check that the electric fans are coming on then feel the upper and lower radiator hoses (caution they will be hot, or should be hot) they should be about the same temperature when the engine is at normal temp. If not, you have a radiator restriction or an air pocket in the cooling system.
Well, yes that could be a sign of internal engine coolant leak, like a headgasket and it could be possible. I would also expect to see constant coolant loss, white smoke out tailpipe, coolant in engine oil sometimes, an engine miss and running bad because coolant is getting on spark plugs. I have a video in my channel talking about a headgasket sealer you might want to watch it. A pressure test should reveal the leak though and will not hold pressure with HG leak.A rad restriction is still high
The spring type clamps are superior to any screw/worm clamp. During temperature and seasonal changes the worm clamps can and will leak if not tightened and retightened. The springs clamps never will be loose or leak due to temperature changed as the spring will always tighten.
Great, keep us posted as to what you find out. Yes, white smoke/steam under the hood would indicate an external coolant leak spraying coolant on the hot engine.
so you already replaced the radiator? Check the coolant level inside the radiator, if low you have a leak somewhere and need to get a pressure test to help you find it. Check upper and lower radiator hoses when engine is warm, they should be able the same temperature. if not, you have a restriction somewhere or there are air pockets in the system that need to be bled out. Getting air in the system after a rad replacement is pretty common. Engine warm, upper rad hose should be hard to squeeze
Usually when that happens its due to a restriction in the radiator or some other coolant restriction like a stuck thermostat, or from lack of airflow across the radiator. Make sure the radiator is full of coolant, check upper and lower rad hoses when engine is warm (they should be close to same temperature) and that there is plenty of airflow across the radiator...ie. cooling fans working, or manual fan is turning fast enough.
What an amazing person! Thanks for your work in making others' lives better.
Thankyou this has helped me a lot, I have a 2002 Chrysler sebring convertible Lx 2.4L , My temperature gauge jumps up sometimes when I accelerate too hard, I came home parked in the driveway , I noticed I have a Leak in the front, I think its oil, I need to buy a compression test to see where its coming from. I'l be back on here to comment when I find out more.
Get a cooling system pressure test first, rule out any external or internal leaks, then check the radiator for a restriction at the bottom. Both upper and lower radiator hoses should be about the same temperature when the engine is hot. If not, there is low coolant or air pockets in the system or a coolant restriction somewhere. The HEATER should be blowing hot air when engine is hot, if not, low coolant level or lack of coolant circulation in the engine is happening.
Thanks this helped a lot I was stumped by my car overheating with recurring antifreeze refills today, I'm so mad have an old 99 Toyota Camry and it just keeps overheating when I run on the freeway. I need to pressure test it and check for any blockage and leaks for sure.
Yes, the water inside the radiator will go up and down slightly, and you should see or might see rise in the overflow bottle on the side. You should not be able to see the "cores" inside the radiator though, those should stay covered with coolant. Just make sure the radiator is full to the top with coolant when the engine is off, and there are no coolant leaks.
I would get a cooling system pressure test and rule out either an internal (headgasket) leak or an external leak you are missing and that leak is not allowing the system to hold pressure, also test the radiator cap. If no leaks, I would check to make sure the engine is actually running hot and not a gauge problem. I would use a thermal thermometer on the engine to verify temperature. Also make sure there are no air pockets in the system.
My head gasket is fine, i have mentioned white smoke but not from the exhaust i am guessing some leak fell on the radiator caused the white smoke. I will do the pressure test to find where the leak is coming from. I'll keep you updated , thanks for your help.
Its possible, but if the temp sending unit was faulty I would expect to see it overheating at all speeds. Check to make sure you have a radiator full of coolant and there are no air pockets in the system that need to be bled out. Also make sure there is plenty of air flow across the radiator and nothing in front of the radiator that is blocking air flow.
Also make sure the upper and lower radiator hoses are both same temp when engine is hot. If not, low on coolant,a leak, or air in the system.
TrustMyMechanic.com ...
Excelent I need some advice plz see my comment I think it's the first one ...
Thanks
TrustMyMechanic.com ..
Excellent...
My car went hot when I was in traffic light..
When I drove it it went down ..
But it happen few times but then it never happen ...what do you think what happen..
Plz answer
Are you sure there are no air pockets in the coolant that need to be bled out? Double check the coolant level inside the radiator to make sure it is completely full. Other things that can cause this. Anything restricting air flow across the radiator, ignition timing that is set to far advanced, even low engine oil could be a factor. I would also make double sure the new radiator is the same width as the old one. same number of "rows" and now narrower or smaller than old one.
I would first check to see if you have an exhaust leak under the hood at the exhaust manifold or flange gasket connection at the manifold to the exhaust pipe or under the vehicle in the exhaust pipe/muffler/converter that is leaking fumes inside the vehicle. Also check to see if you have an oil leak, which can smell like exhaust inside the vehicle.
I would also use the RECIRCULATION setting for the a/c and not use the fresh air setting to see if that helps.
sir i can say for sure that u r helping to much and u r truly honest with ur profession
It could be a restriction in the radiator. But first, I would check this.
1. Open radiator, if low on coolant get a cooling system pressure test to find leak.
2. Check for an air pocket that might be trapped in the coolant, bled out any air that might be in the system. This air can get trapped after doing a coolant type repair.
3. Make sure there are no coolant or air flow restrictions. Air flow across the radiator and coolant flow going through the radiator. Upper/ lower rad hoses same temp
You sure the coolant level is full inside the radiator? Steam under the hood means, coolant/water came in contact with the hot engine, so I would assume you have an external leak somewhere. Although, a radiator that is restricted at the bottom can cause overheating, then coolant to escape out the overflow bottle onto the hot engine and produce the steam. Radiator problems usually show up at higher speeds and or extended driving times at higher speed (meaning not slow or idle speed)
Thanks man this really helped me out I have a 2003 Dodge ram 1500 that does run hot on the highway and at idle speeds replaced fan clutch and radiator which stopped problem and it gets really hot out here in Killeen TX too
excellent video, I would have to say though always check the lower radiator hose condition as well as when you check the top, in addition if your having overheating issues at highway speeds and you know its been a long time since you've flushed the system running on dirty coolant, it would be a good idea to check the water pump as well, I had the waterpumps internal propeller on my 98 f150 dissolve due to running on old coolant BTW headgasket test kits can be rented from AutoZone fairly cheap
If you can see corrosion or mineral or rust build up at the top of the radiator it will be MUCH worse at the bottom of the radiator, so yes your overheating problems could be due to a restriction in the radiator and its time for a new one.
I always replace the thermostat when I replace the radiator, just as general maintenance. The overflow bottle will rise and fall as the engine and thermostat thermostat opens and closes off the coolant flow.
You are such a nice man!!!!! I wish YOU could be MY mechanic!!!!!! thank you so very much for the video...Hoping you have made more videos like this because you are soooo helpful!!!!
Does the engine run hot? Are the electric cooling fans coming on? is there pressure on the upper radiator hose when the engine is hot? You should have trouble squeezing the upper hose together (use a rag it will be very hot).
if it is not hard to squeeze you have a leak somewhere or a bad radiator cap that is not holding pressure inside the system.
You want to get a cooling system PRESSURE Test to help locate a leak, if you have one. A compression test will help you determine if there is internal wear inside the cylinders, which I dont think is your issue. You should be able to get an aftermarket radiator for about $150-200 or you might see if you have a radiator shop in your area that can "boil out" yours, sometimes its better to get a new one than try and mess with your old one though.
USUALLY when that happens it is because the engine is running hotter than it should and boiling over inside the radiator to the overflow bottle, which is why it is there. But, the running hot issue has to be addressed. Could be due to a coolant leak (get a cooling system pressure test) or it could be due to a restriction in the bottom of the radiator and a new radiator is the answer. Rule out a leak, check electric radiator cooling fans, check radiator for restriction.
First, check the coolant level in the radiator and top off as needed. Second, Do you have an electric cooling fan up near the radiator? Most cars have at least one electric cooling fan for the radiator and that fan should cycle on and off at idle or slow speeds as the engine heats up. Double check that fan operation at idle. If you have 2 fans, one is for the A/C compressor and should come on when the A/C compressor clutch kicks on.
Very good explanation. Those who thumbed down have probably never trouble-shot a vehicle problem....
Get a cooling system pressure test first to see if there is a leak somewhere. Then check cooling fan motors and switches, then check radiator for a restriction. If low on coolant fans will not be able to do their job because the sensor can not read the temperature of the coolant to turn on the fans.
I just bleed it with the engine off technique ,, and no more overheat...but I am gonna pressure test it..my mechanic done that before...and about the o2 censors I did notice a 2 mpg drop..thank you for sharing your input
I am not thinking headgasket from what you have shared with me. If it runs hot again, turn on the heater blower on high and see if the temp goes down. If is does, you are either low on coolant and have a small leak, there is air in the system still or the radiator has gunk at the bottom and restricting coolant flow. The AC is just an added load the radiator is unable to handle. If i was going to "guess I would replace the radiator if I am sure all air has been bled out.
If symptoms occur, don't hesitate to go to your nearest car repair shop to avoid accident. Thanks for the tips. Good job!
Thank you!
Get a cooling system pressure test to rule out the possibility of a small coolant leak, but this could be due to a radiator that is slightly restricted at the bottom and allowing just enough coolant to flow as to break even on the temp gauge. What you are seeing COULD be normal, I would have to see it personally. I would feel the upper and lower radiator hoses after your long trip and see if they are about the same temp, they should be close. If upper is hotter than lower, radiator restriction
As long as there are NO coolant leaks and you are not constantly adding coolant to the system I would lean toward a problem with the radiator...a restriction at the bottom that can not be flushed out. When its running hot, feel the upper and lower radiator hoses, they should be pretty close to same temp. If not, there is air in the system that needs to be bled out, there is a leak and not enough coolant, or a restriction is happening. Does that help? Probably not an issue with the fan clutch.
In 17 years I've only had 1 bypass hose which ruptured, other than that I still have all the original hoses from 275,000 miles ago. They have outlasted 3 radiators, a thermostat, and a water control valve, I'm hanging on until they start bulging or rupture. They cost to much to be replacing as preventive maintenance.
I probably would have changed all the hoses 3-4 times and spent around 300-400 bux along the way.
Ant inputs will be greatly appreciated. Thank you again!
Did you get the cooling system pressure test to rule out a leak? Did you have the radiator checked for a restriction? Are all water hoses hot when engine is warm?
Top man.
I have an overheating seat
Water pump changed thermostat changed
Pressure test done and still overheating
Radiator next to check?
It only overheats on freeway not when idle.
Sounds like lack of coolant flowing inside the engine. Could be that the water pump is wrong and the impeller is backwards from the original (rare but seen it) or it could be that the thermostat is stuck (I would just replace it anyway as a cheap guess). I would also make sure this is not a gauge problem and the engine is really overheating.
remove the radiator cap and see if you can see any coolant circulating with the engine running, you should.
great video, what do you do when your vehicle has overheated and antifreeze is all over the
road...you tow it home...where do we start?
Hummm from what you have told me my gut still tells me there is a radiator restriction/low coolant circulation or air pockets in the coolant type of situation. Overheating after driving longer distances and with the A/C on (which is an added drain on the cooling system) usually means the radiator is not doing a good enough job at removing the heat. This radiator is super small and thin and does not take much to restrict it. Can you look inside the radiator and see ANY rust or mineral deposits
If no hot coolant is circulating in the system, either due to not enough coolant or a restriction in the radiator, a large air pocket in the system not allowing coolant to flow or a stuck thermostat then you will not have hot air from the heater. Both upper and lower rad hoses should be about the same temp, and both heater hoses should be pretty darn hot too when the engine is at normal temp, about 210
WHat do you think of Evans Waterless Coolant. I've used it in my SUV and there is no pressure. I can drive it with the radiator cap off even. It boils at 375F. I think its an amazing preventative maintenance and if someone's got an old clunker with a overheating issue Evans would make a great "band aid" for that problem.
Great video. My Trams am is overheating when I'm stop at a Red light. I will check the fans. When I start moving and picking up speed the needle goes back to normal. Only when I'm stop at a red light the needle goes all the way up
make sure the radiator is full of coolant and there are no air pockets in the system that need to be bled out. With the engine at normal temp, you really should not be able to squeeze together the top radiator hose with your hands, if you can there is a leak somewhere or air in the system. Also upper and lower radiator hoses should be about the same temp, or the radiator is probably restricted at the bottom and needs to be replaced.
usually it is a bad cooling fan motor, but can also be a cooling fan sensor problem. The sensor measures coolant temp then sends the signal to the fan motor to come on of turn off.
Those vehicle are notorious for small headgasket seeps, but if the engine is not overheating and you are not having to continually add coolant I would not worry to much about it. I do have a really good headgasket sealer additive I show in my youtube channel....."best headgaket sealer" you might want to try it and see if it helps.
Yes it could be a problem with the fan motor or the sensor to the motor. Did the A/C compressor clutch click on when you turned on the A/C? The part that the fan belt is attached to, that is the clutch and will make a click noise and spin the compressor when you turn on the A/C. IF the compressor is out of Freon, it will not come on, and neither will the fan. let the car idle until it warms up, does the fan come on and off, it should. Take a broom stick and give it a push and a tap.
hi, thanks for the response. I had an almost zero coolant and I posted it after i filled the reservoir and drove 8 miles, it reached the red zone and i stopped and after letting it cool till next morning, i saw the fuel level went down and filled more and drove and found it is not heating up until there is coolant. i parked at several places and found there r two spots there is oil spillage. i also saw a lot of fresh oil deposit behind the engine. i am gonna check with my mechanic and see
What if you find oil in the overflow tank and on the radiator cap? Can it be a cracked head or seal?
Thank you. I hope 🤞 to hear from me. I don’t want to blow up the engine.
Yes I am a woman doing the work. Almost to old to be doing this stuff.
I just went through this problem with my 05 navigator with the 5.4 engine, driving on the freeway, noticed that the temp gauges went into the red line. Got off the next exit, found a place to park an pop the hood to see what going on. Had to sit there for fifteen minutes to cool down. Looked at the reservoir and it was sitting the low mark, but it still had coolent. After cooling off, I drove a little slower, went to auto part retailers and purchased some 50/50 coolent and topped it off. Drove it home, next day, drove awhile,, and the gauges indicated it was starting to over heat. Next day I got radiator pressure tester and the fitting to test the reservoir bottle and cap. The tool and adapter didn't seal, had to use some pipe sealant tape to get it to pressurize. Was able to pressurize, but was leak at the threads of the adapter. Same with the adapter for testing the cap. I had purchased a new thermostat when I got the testing tool, but I had not installed it yet. I returned the testing tools and purchased a new pressure cap after noticing that the rubber gasket in the cap was worn down. Put the new cap on then took a test drive and monitored my scan tool for the coolant temperature. After the engine got to temp and stable, I continued drive at freeway speeds for fifteen minutes. The coolent temp stayed steady plus or minus the thermostat rating, problem solved.
So the overheating was cause by a bad radiator cap?
Ok thank you for your help. It still over heated today so I will need to do a pressure test and buy a new radiator possibly.
Do you only have 1 electric fan up near the radiator? Some cars have 2, 1 for the A.C and one for the radiator. The ac fan will or should come on when the compressor comes on. If you are low on Freon, the compressor will not come on and neither will the condenser fan under the hood. I would start with checking the Freon level and pressure with gauges, then check for power to the fan motor. But to answer your question, usually the motor itself goes out...but maybe not in your case.
...there was a significant amount of air bubbles coming up from the bottle and I filled it with coolant as it went down. Once I no longer saw any bubbles for a couple minutes I turned the car off. Some of the coolant over flowed out of the reservoir tank but I was told this would occur. I'm going to drive it to work again tomorrow and see how it does. If that fails I was suggested to take it to a mechanic, that it might be my Head Gasket. What do you think? Thank you for your response! :)
If your radiator is leaking you will need to replace it, have not seen a sealer or additive that works on the newer plastic radiator. Fans might not be coming on because they are getting a signal from the coolant temp sensor and if there no coolant the sensor might not work.
You need to get a cooling system pressure test to find the leak. Could be anything, a radiator or heater hose, water pump, radiator etc. etc. I would assume it is something like that above and not a headgasket or anything really really expensive.
Well, you should get a cooling system pressure test first if you can not easily see where the coolant leak is coming from. I would suspect that coolant is getting on the fan belt, causing the noise? Maybe a bad water pump, or could be a radiator hose spitting coolant on the belt which will make a squeeking/chirping noise. I would also make sure the electric cooling fan on the radiator is coming on when at idle.
Excellent video and information. We recently had our trans rebuilt on a ford taurus (trans leaking now and still hasn't been repaired because repair man putting us off). The next day the engine light came on and comes to find out it was a fuse by the transmission. Now the car is overheating shakes and cuts off. Any thoughts?
You see drips of water coming from the muffler under the vehicle??? There is a small moisture drain hole in the muffler itself to let water from condensation drip out. The steam is probably just condensation...as long as it goes away after the engine warms up. You say it IS overheating?? You ARE having to add coolant regularly?? Most info please.
Yes, you can probably still drive it BUT now that we have a YELLOW check engine light and a roughness/shaky complaint you mentioned earlier I am starting to believe you do have a missfire type of problem. Could be a bad spark plug wire or ignition coil problem or something more serious.
The engine light is on because the computer sees a problem and has stored a code in memory for your mechanic to read and troubleshoot.
These vehicles are difficult to bleed air from the system. Check for any other coolant leaks, check radiator electric fan motor, check temp of lower and upper rad hoses to see if they are the same and both have pressure on them. Turn on the heater inside the car to help remove air pockets from the system, then top off radiator with coolant. Heater should be HOT, if not you got air in system still. If you are still stumped try a new thermostat, its a quick and cheap guess to rule things out.
The shaking....does the engine feel like it is misfiring? Dose the engine perform normal and have power like it should? If those items are ok, the shaking could be just a vibration issue like from a bad or worn engine mount, or it could be due to a missfire, and a cylinder is not performing properly.
If you are not loosing coolant and not overheating, I would not really suspect an internal coolant leak, or headgasket type of problem but still need it checked out to be sure.
first off thank u for the video I don't know where to start I need to know if I have a fixable problem or if I'm screwed car overheated on a hot day it holds pressure has heat air works changed waterpump fans work unless it has a shortage two things that appears strange to me is when the radiator hose is squeezed it makes a clicking sound over at the radiator area and when I take off the radiator cap the coolant was just running over spilling out while engine is cold
Its possible that you have a gauge problem, but its VERY rare. You did the pressure test and there are no leak? You checked the radiator for a restriction and there is none, you checked for air in the cooling system that needs to be bled out, you checked the electric cooling fan on the radiator and it is working? If all those come out ok, then have a mechanic check the temperature sending unit, that tells the dashgauge how how the engine is. its cheap part, if you want to just guess and replace
Well, I would make sure the cooling fan is working, there is not a coolant leak and the radiator is full, and there are no air pockets in the cooling system. I would not remove the fan just yet, figure out if there is power to the motor first. You might have a bad fan motor or a bad cooling fan temperature switch that is not sending data to the fan motor.
If you can't see where the leak is coming from with your naked eye, then get a "cooling system pressure test" (which is fast and cheap) to locate the leak. If you don't have any white smoke coming from the exhaust pipe I would not worry to much about the white chalk stuff, but after I repaired the leak I might flush out the cooling system and add new coolant.