Having owned the G30 for 7 years and completing 100 brews I decided to upgrade to the G40. I only replaced one item on the G30 which was the plastic base and this was due to mis-handling on my part and the replacement cost was minimal. I sold it for a good price too. I have done 12 brews in the G40 and am very pleased with it but you need to spend some time establishing the equipment profile. In particular the boil off rate and the trub losses. I have a NZ/Australia system and a 15 Amp / 230 Volt power supply and have found the boil off is a lot higher than the G30, almost double, so I reduce the heating to 80 or 85% depending on ambiant temperature. I love the wifi, way better range than Bluetooth, I love the ease of cleaning (in place), I like the heavier gauge steel and I like the half hour shorter brew time. An excellent product that I am happy to recommend to all brewers. BTW I use an external temperature sensor to monitor the out flow from the chiller so don't see that as a big problem
Informative as always David. I have been brewing with the G30 for about 6 years but thought the G40 is the game changer I have been looking for and bought it 2 days ago. Brewed today and it is awesome! I will definitely be upgrading to the 15 amp (Australian version) as I found the boil a bit lack lustre. Great efficiency and clean up is a joy with so few components. Can't wait for my next brew!
Agree - needs a coat or 15amp or both for Australian/NZ model. Still easy to use and great experience, but there are a number of people watching US/UK/EU content and expecting AUS 10amp G40 to perform the same.
Thanks David. Nice system for G30 users wanting to update or for beginners wanting larger batches with a higher purchase budget available, because it does cost more than some 40 litre systems, but the GF offers good consistency and better quality then lower budget alternatives. Also nice to see the move to WiFi from Bluetooth connectivity with the controller.
Hi David, Great video, thanks. I have just completed my first brew with the G40 (from upgrading from the g30). It was such a simple day. I do not miss the silicone gaskets and the lack of the pipe work makes cleaning up some much simpler. Also the bottom drain is fantastic and I will be add a tap there for the next brew. The only issue was my efficiency during mash. I massively under shot my target. This has never happened on the G30, I have always over shot. The recipe I picked was from a local shop and had great reviews , but most reviews all stated they over shot their targets as well. The app suggested a no sparge brew as it would all fit in the kettle, so I thought I would give this a whirl. Also, the “instruction manual” does not go into any detail of the mash procedure. So after doughing in I took a ph reading added acid and stirred and took another reading, so in the first 5 mins of the mash, it got about 3 stirs. During the rest of the mash, the recirculation pipe was connected (resting toward the top of the wort) and the pump on full (not sure if this was correct, should it be turned down, if so how much) Any way, any tips or suggestions why my efficiency was so bad, I would be greatly appreciative Thanks Pete
Hi Peter, Ive not tried a no sparge brew and probably would avoid it but so far my effeciences with a sparge have been high. You do need to enable it in the app though. I think this would have cost you some losses.
Damn, David, you really made me drooling! Incredible review, and I totally trust your opinion. At least now I know what I want next. Thanks for your great videos!
As always, David, you have provided a lot of helpful information. I was most interested in the information regarding the recirculation process during the mash. Initially, the thought of laying the recirculation tube on or in the grain bed seemed like an inefficient way to recirculate. Without a top plate I thought the mash efficiency would suffer but the sped up footage of the recirculating you provided illustrates otherwise. Thank you for taking the time to show that part of the mash process. I greatly appreciate your work.
I have been waiting for this, love the amount of detail and full information that you give, I am thinking that this is the upgrade I have been waiting for. I just wish the price was lower!!
Great video and fantastic review, David! I already own the very first version of G30 and absolutely love it. This one could be the next upgrade allowing me to do single or double batch, but also great to see that I can do single or double session batches as well! Incredible versatility!
Thank you again. Have been waiting for this. I consider to upgrade from my G30 which have served me well for many brews, but for every of my last brews, I have struggled to reach boil temperature, especially on stronger wort. Very annoying timeconsuming. Your video gave a lot of useful information.
What power do you run the G30 on? Do you insulate the boiler? G30 should have a good boil (at least mine does; 10amp 240v with 2200W). G40 is a great system for sure but your G30 shouldn't be giving you issues.
@@StassBrewing Hi, The problem is not the boil, but getting up to boiling. I have 240V/16Amp/2200W. Never had the issue with my first 50 brews. During my last brew, I had to press the reset button under the boiler several times, I scratched the bottom, and finally got up to 100 degrees C. Seems like the problem is getting worse for every brew. When the boil is established, it keeps a nice, steady rolling boil during the entire boiltime.
Jan, I would suggest that you do the following:- 1) Add afew tablespoons of PBW or similar to 2L of water and heat to 55C. Take the heat off and leave for afew hours. 2) Rinse out with water 3) Add enough diluted starsan to cover the bottom and leave over night or a similar period. 4) Rinse out and then test with 5L of water. I suspect that you have protein deposits on the bottom plate and this process will remove them.
...must...watch.. grain... Oh geez I was hypnotized.. lol Good to hear they fixed the temp issue quickly. I like the sight glass better than the G70. Nice video David! 👍🍻
yeh it's nice to read - easier than the G70, but it can be a little touchy with pack-pressure from wort recirc etc. And you can't read it when you're transferring wort to see how much you have transferred. Small things I guess but worth pointing out.
Nice system, especially since I'm a fan of reasonable integrated solutions. Price is expensive, but it seems to be OK for the quality. Over most of the last year and early 2021, I considered to buy a Brewtools B40pro, but in the end I decided it is too expensive. I also thought of buying a G30, but after seeing the G70 I hesitated since a pending update was obvious. Unfortunaletly, instead of waiting, I upgraded my traditional setup with with SS-Brewtech kettles, a new malt mill, automatic brew paddle/stirrer and many TriClover parts etc. I will wait and see other peoples experiences with the G40. Perhaps I will buy one in 1-2 years.
Cheers! Nice video David! Around 9:56 you show there is about 400ml of water left after the G40 is empty. How do/can you remove it without the need for tilting?
Sounds like 5% more efficiency than the g30 and less headache. Wonder how you’ll fix your hop rocket… thanks a lot for sharing. Once it arrived in Switzerland I think upgrade from 30 to 40. One thing missing in the video is how it settles in in price point vs the connected competition of braumeister and brewtools. Its a very interesting offering!!
Great video, I would have like to know a bit more about the 10amp and 15amp, for instance can you switch from 10 to 15 during the mash (would have to be plugged into 15amp socket off course) so then I could use 10amp/2400W for step mashing, then switch to 15amp/3600W for the boil, is something like that possible? To help avoid scorching, Also on scorching I vaguely remember in one of your older videos you mentioned something like a conical shaped bottom to avoid that, it’s that correct? Also can it be used with distilling attachments like the G30 could?
Thanks Mark. The amp switching is just for NZ only, so not something I know much about sadly. This will not scorch as it has ultra low watt density heating elements. The G40 doesn’t have the same set up for distilling in the same way that the G30 has.
Hi David hope you had a great Christmas I'm just wondering what do you think of the new fancy kegeraters would you recommend them as I'm about to purchase one ok them thanks Ps I managed to get 1000€ back for my grainfather g40 happy days and I'd like to wish you and yours a very Happy and a peaceful New year cheers keep up the videos
Many thanks . I really love my series x. Four taps and kegs works great. Which ever way you go I think you will find these videos handy:- ua-cam.com/video/VoAzVvbRoOk/v-deo.html
David, I have just ordered a G40 and am curious to know if you maintained the same grain crush gap with the new system. Looking forward to your G40 Tips and Tricks video when it comes out.
has the G40 a Resetbutton like the G30 and what happens when there is too less Mash unter the basket? Can this happen? Thx for answering and more Videos with this little cutie =)
Great video, thanks a lot! Very helpful seeing the mash timelapse. However, Do you think a splitted hose will give more even stirring, and prevent the grain from collecting on one side? Might also get the G40 :)
Hi David, and thank you for this very thorough Walk through. One thing I wonder about is the overflow system on the G40. Dosen’t the vertical Perferation means That the gratin bed gets partly bypassed constantly, as the Water always Will flow the easiest route? Br Kristjan
Thanks once again for an informative video. Even though i do not brew often and my g30 still has a very low brew count, i am certainly considering upgrade. The thing i hate is the cleaning after brewing. You really need to wash the malt pipe outside the g30 and turn the system upside down to get it washed imo. So, is the g40 really much better in this sense? CIP really works? How would you overall describe, how the upgrade will make the brewday easier (if any) and/or faster?
The G40 is easy to clean, there is no tipping as such but its similar in terms of time really. You will find the system faster due to the extra power and certainly its a more deluxe package. Having no middle pipework certainly is easier and more consistent too. Its a decent upgrade, you just need to figure out the cost really I would say.
Hey David, First of all, thanks a billion for all your great content. Totally love it and learned a lot from you. I've been brewing with the Grainfather G40 now for a while, and am wondering if a potential top mash plate would be from any value. What do you think? From what I expect, it could help diving the circulating wort a bit better on the grain bill, but at the same time you can't really stir on the bill when the plate is in place. When using the G30 I also got rid of the top plate pretty often. Looking forward to hear from you what you think! Cheers from the 🇳🇱 M.
David, thank you again for a very informative and excellent video. I do have to question how this system can deliver enough for filling 2 corny kegs (18 or 19 L) after fermentation? You have to take in account all losses with trub in the kettle and fermenter, so for me it doesn't ad up. I use a Brewzilla 65, real volume 55 L, and need to aim for 44-46 L to fill up 2 corny kegs.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Great video thanks David. I had the same question, as am keen to upgrade from the g30 to be able to fill 2 kegs. I also can’t reconcile how it can produce 46L when the max pre boil volume is 46L? Cheers
A couple of cons, is that this system has an integrated pump that recirculates thru the site glass. If there is a problem with the pump, which there will be, at least at some point, what do you do? Depending on whether or how you sparge you may need another kettle or container to pump out some of the initial hot water too for the sparge water. Lifting the grain basket out of the brew kettle post mash and sparge you will probably drip all over your floor unless you can quickly put it into a close bucket etc. Video did not explain or show cleanup procedures so not sure how that works or if there is any time you might save. All in all for the price of this product not sure this would be an answer for some homebrewer that has decided they want to go electric.
Hi Harry, if the pump fails then I would simply use one of my transfer pumps but I take your point and agree. The cleaning procedure here is the same as any other all in one. Yes, in regards to price there certainly are cheaper systems out there. Having said that none are as sturdy as this, though it is questionable if this is actually needed. Thanks for sharing your thoughts.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks for your video and review. All in one systems are certainly viable for some homebrewers who want to go electric but do not want to deal with a 2 or 3 kettle system with external pumps and controller etc. There are positives and cons for almost any system you build or buy.
Hi great video as normal Lots of info but nothing about power supply is it same as a G30 UK plug 230v or G70 three phase power needing an electrician ?
Here is a link to the quick start guide, it confirms the power plus more :- www.themaltmiller.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Grainfather-G40-Instructions-High-Res.pdf
Reale interesting, the 400 ml that is remain in the system, does that also apply for the wort ? Is there a big difference in efficiency on a net basket as Claw hammer supply use VS new G40 ? I am using the net basket in my China bucket, works great however the whole bucket is a bit flimsy overall. Cool review 👍
Cheers Allan. The 400ml is essentially the bulk of the losses. Which is pretty impressive stuff. Yes, ive seen 5% more efficiency so far in general but ive not tried everything yet of course :)
Great Video Thank You. David there is mention of a 10amp and 15amp mode in the manual is this relevant in the UK? If so I have 16Amp connection so would definately like to make use of the 15amp mode. Thank You
@@DavidHeathHomebrew David I contacted Grainfather Tech and I have converted my G40 (with grainfathers help) to the 15A version. I will probably do a Post on it. You need to remove the bottom plastic stand plate and then remove a jumper pin on the power box (white loop of wire on 3pin plug). That puts the G40 in the EU mode and you can then siwtch the 15a mode. Note I have full16A RCA protected dedicated Curcuit (commando connector) this is not for use with standrd Uk 13A plug. Pete
Great video and rundown of the unit. I have to say, while my comment and observation made on the announcement video still stays with regards to the perforations, the unit otherwise looks solid. Full drainability without hassle is a nice feature, and the pump filter design from the G70 is also greatly appreciated. Is the pump able to run reliably during the boil?
Hi David. Thanks for another great review. Do you know if there are plans for a new fermentor ? The conical will obviously be too small for a full capacity brew.
Cheers 🍻 Nothing more for this year in that department. Personally I prefer smaller fermenters, more practical for those that need them to be portable.
I have known your channel very recently but I already like it very much. I wanted to ask you something. The heating element is not replaceable ok. Is there any way to replace it in ways that are not really motherly?
Great to hear Matteo. There is but apparently it would need to be done by someone skilled in such matters. GF are unsure if they will offer the heater element as a spare part. The could vary depending on your world region too. This information was provided by Grainfathers European branch.
Hi David, thanks again for the great video!!! After 5 years with my G30, I will probably order the G40 soon :-) A question: with you having access to a wide variety of systems (Brewtools, Grainfathers, Robobrews), which system would be your first choice for most brews in the months to come and why? Thanks!
Cheers Terry. I am planning a comparison video. In truth I like all these systems for different reasons but I will present the facts after some thinking and filming.
Thank you David, as always a very informative video, keep up the great work! I’d be interested very much in your opinion which one‘s better, this G40 or the Brewtools b40 pro (costs aside). I understand you haven‘t made a lot of brews with this one yet….what would you say?
These are very different systems. Brewtools is quite a bit more expensive by the time you have added everything you need beyond the basic brewing system package but certainly the quality is higher and every part is replaceable. Brewtools offers more flexibility for the way that you brew but is also much more complex to set up and learn to use. The controller on Brewtools is a touchscreen that is wifi connected but without a guided experience or sparge counter. Some really like this combination where as others say the product is over engineered and more complex than is needed. The GF G40 is going to save you money compared to the Brewtools but the heating element is not replaceable. Having said this, there is no reason why this will not last at least 10 years. The quality of the G40 is a lot higher than a G30 being very sturdy and well finished. The G40 has a set way to brew that works well and the controller and smart app work a nice guided easy process with good information. There is no real learning curve at all.
Thanks for your video's David! They are amazing! I bought a G40 and had 2 brews with it to find out that at the end the pump clogs up terribly and i am having a really HARD time to get my brew pumped into the fermenter. Blowing through the hose etc. etc. Do you know of this problem? Or anyone here? Up til now i am not happy with it.....
Hi Rene, thanks. The design should not allow this. Have you removed and cleaned the bottom filter plate? If so then it sounds like a case to bring up with GF. Ive not had any issues personally.
Hi David, thanks for the reply. What actually happened is that the bottom filter plate was totally clogged up. Maybe the grains were milled too fine? I use a Hopsock for the hops so that should be no issue. The store where i buy my grains will mill the grains for you if you want. I used that service the last 2 times but will do it myself next time and see what happens....... Thanks again!
Yes, if there are small grain bits then these can cause clogging for sure. The hops also form part of the filters design, so I suggest not using hop socks in future. You do not need them at all with the G40.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Ok, i will try that with my next brew. Thanks again for your reply and keep making those amazing video’s, i’ve learned a lot from them! Greetings from a Dutchman living and brewing in Switzerland 👍🏻
Awesome video as always David. I’m curious regarding any replacement parts. I think the G40 comes with 3 yr warranty and assume most parts are modular, but I am unsure if the heating element is modular as well? If not and if it were to go out after the warranty timeline is there anything an owner can do? Or are you pretty much left with a now broken system and now need to buy a new system?
This would be a great thing for those who are happy with the G30, but want to get rid of the overflow pipe. Fingers crossed this comes out as a hardware update option.
This looks great and I think I'm going to push my budget and buy one. Is there no need for a hop spider with this? Can I just add pellets with no spider or bags?
Great. I dont like hop spiders due to the issues around utilisation. All my testing is just using the hops straight. GF told me they tried 1kg of hops in their testing with one brew and there was no issues or even slowdown. Ive not gone that far but certainly there is no need for a hop spider.
Malt miller and GF have tested with 1kg hops. I've done 2x 23L brews in my G40 both with approx 380g hops in the boil and there were no issues with filters getting clogged etc.
Yes but if you are happy to stir a little during the mash then less can be used. If you get the grain crush right then you will not need rice hulls unless you are mashing grain bills high in wheat or rye.
Hi David. I'm wondering if you're having problems with the pump on the g40. I have had 2 brews on it, on both brew days the pump would not start after boiling and I had to blow through the pump. I had to turn it off many times to get it started.
Again great Video that pushed me over the edge and I ordered one yesterday! A question: Do you think you could add sugar (lets say 1 kg) to the G40 directly without a spider or dissoving it first? Or would it still burn the element, like on my G30?
Nice content again, David! I’m very interested in this system. At the moment I have the Brewmonk 50 which is doing fine, but I’m looking for a more robust system with a higher quality. I didn’t buy the G30 at that time because of the low volume, especially for high gravity beers the Brewmonk gave more flexibility. Do you stir during the mash for an increased efficiency? I do it with the Brewmonk which is also adviced (every 15-20 min). I also squeeze the return flow a little, preventing the bottom to run dry. With the G40 this doesn’t seem to be necessary anymore?! Last question: what size did you use for the grain crush?
Hi Jack, yes 10 gallons is possible being the maximum brew size, enough to cover two corny kegs. The Brewzilla 65 offers the same. The GEN 4 Brewzilla units are not far away now and I recently got samples of the 35 and 65L models. Gen 4 shares a lot of the features found on the GF G40 but with a lower price tag. I am yet to fully test but these are looking very good. I will make a few different videos about these that will roll out before and after launch. This is late summer in Europe but I await a date for the US.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thanks David always nice to hear from you Ps after 12 years of brewing I've just discovered that controlling your brew in your refrigerator makes all the difference between having a good brew and a brilliant one talk soon
@@DavidHeathHomebrew one more thing David is wlp002 any good for ale because when I used it in my oatmeal stout the flavour was horrible I do know that the 001 was fantastic what's your opinion
Hi David about the grainfather g40 can I make a ten gallon batch in it my ten gallon batch of oatmeal stout is not a large grain bill and its a beautiful stout poured on nitrogen snow White heads Recipe is 13 pounds pale ale malt author Guinness uses it 25 ozs flaked oats 13 ozs crystal malt 13 ozs chocolate malt 8 ozs roast barley 3 ozs cara pills 3 ozs flaked barely 3 squars of chocolate A few pinches of yeast neautrient 10 minutes 80 grams ekg 60 minutes I'd love to know what you think My og is 1048 My fg is normally 1012 absolutely gorgeous you should try it cheers One more thing I've used wlpoo1 two step starter that really stepped it up but s05 isn't bad either have you ever used wlp002 I have and it had a horrible flavour which yeast would you recommend for both stout and ale as you are the real expert on yeast and as I'm sure you know how yeast imparts flavour hope to hear from you soon cheers
So I did buy one and I'm really happy with it. Mixing grain each 15 mins during mashing gives efficiency > 85% on regular basis. I've got one question though: despite low mashing temperatures (62°C) the final beer always ends up too sweet for me. It leaves sticky lips... Dextrose? So far I did try Pilsner and APA with various Kveik: Voss, Lutra and M12. Is it a case for you too?
@@DavidHeathHomebrew yes. FG is always 2-3 points above expected value. I use x4 yeast nutrients dose for Kveik and aeriate wort with stone and air pump. I do ferment APAs @35°C in GF30 for 5 days and then 2 days @20°C. With lutra I go 3 days@22°C, than after no activity in air lock 2 days @28°C and 3 days @18°C. so far I brew 4 APAs and 2 Pilsners, all of them did end up too sweet and leave sticky lips...
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I did read that it helps with clarity and aroma, I do keep A/IPAs 5 days@35°C, usually after 36h there's no activity in the airlock. gravity readout after 2 and 5 days is the same
The boil off is 3.5L per hour. I have consistent mash efficiency of 80%. Time to boil I have not taken but speed tests to mash temp are done in this comparison video:- ua-cam.com/video/HXSmAWlxQl0/v-deo.html
Great video! Im going to keep my G30 for 5 gallon batches but I would like a new system for 10 gallon batches. Would you recommend the G40 or G70? I know you had some issues with the G70 but the larger volume is a plus...Im not interested in the S series or the Brewzilla b/c I absolutely love the connectivity and everything about my G30. Thanks in advance, Erik
Thanks David. I wonder what the process would be for a Brewfather user who wants to use the guided features of the G40. Import the Brewfather recipe into Grainfather recipe app? What are your thoughts on this?
Thanks Mark. Yes, you can save the BF recipe in XML format and then import into the GF app for all the timings and water volumes. You will note a difference in the prefictions but this is to be expected.
This is not something that can be generic advice due to the differences in grain. I suggest starting with a credit card sized gap and adjusting from there.
1. I would have liked to see what you did for sparge. I like the top plate as when my sparge water hit it it was then spread around. 2. At 9.30 you show the set up you have for chilling. Seems like they have no solution for securing that return tube into the wort although you have your own work around 3. why can you not just cut the return tubing and install the wortmeter you already have? 4. Does the system come passivated? Did you passivated them?
You can fit the return pipe from the chiller between the support ring around the top - not ideal but it works. The issue with the wortometer is the temp probes from the G40 are mounted in the bottom of the boiler and can't be removed. @Homebrew Griffo uses his wortometer with his old grainfather temp probe with his G40. Cheers
Thanks Paul and Stass. Here are some answers 1) Its the same as any other sparge you are just not having a top plate. I thought that I showed it. 2) Yes, there are various things you can do here, its left rather open 3) The wortometer relies on being able to connect a temp probe which is separate on the G30 , so as such not suitable for the G40 by standard. 4) Ive not and I am unsure what treatments, if any , are standard. Ive now asked GF for comment, so lets see.
Hi David, Has your opinion of the G70 changed at all since your last video in 2020? I believe they had an additional firmware update since your second review of the system. LMK thanks
A wee bit expencive for my budget. Will it run on the Norwegian power grid and 10 amp? I have been saving for a G30, but the G40 looks better and I do like the space for a big beer with more grain.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew after checking my curcuitbox I figured it out. Mostly 16amps in the house. All good. I will probably get one in Grimstad tomorrow. Short roadtrip from where I live with my 16 amps 😂
In your comparison video for the G70, Brewtools B80, and Brewzilla, you mentioned the relatively poor finish on the G70, even compared to the much less expensive Brewzilla. The G40 seems to have borrowed many of the design features of the G70, while improving on others. What is your general impression of the build quality of this unit? Does it suffer from finish issues similar to those you noted with the G70? Also, I have seen problems reported with what I am guessing was cavitation of the G70 pump and in another reviewer's G40 video, he seemed to be experiencing similar issues. It sounded to me like the self-priming feature wasn't working reliably. In your limited testing, have you encountered any such issues with the G40?
Certainly I had issues with the G70 which included the finish and pump. I found the G40 to be much better in this regard compared. It seems to me that important lessons have been learnt in various areas. The redesign is key for sure.
Hi David, I'm planning my first brew on my G40 in a few days. When making the recipe I noted a big difference in Brewfather vs Grainfather. For my 24 liter tripel recipe Grainfather suggests a 34.75 liter mash volume and no spage, Brewfather however suggests a 22.33 liter mash and a 11.36 liter spage. Is this an error in the Grainfather software or is going the no spage route the way to go? What are your thoughts?
Yes, there is big differences between these. Ive just followed the GF software so far for the G40 but with sparge selected and its been fine. Are you sure that you do not have it set as “no sparge”?
Chiller question - can you do a detailed video for using the chiller? I’ve been using the G30 and the instructions and videos out there are inconsistent. Step 1) run wort 2 to 5 minutes to sanitize? Step 2) Start cold water then run back into kettle until tube feels cool; this took 25 minutes and my tap water is 76 F? Step 3) Then move at a slow rate to fermenter. So how do all the steps affect the outcome quality? Seems like Step 2 for 25 minutes may be a problem? Thanks much.
My biggest issue has always been the amount of hops it can take... so I'd love to know how it handles big hoppy recipes. As an example my G30 will clog up with 80-100g of hops added to the whirlpool - and I often use double or more than that for Double IPAs or Hazy's which renders the counter chiller and pump useless - I tend to use an immersion chiller and syphon now :(
I normally stir my G30 mash every 15mns but removing the top plate is a faff. I see in comments that you said it's not necessary but increases efficiency. What is the actual purpose of the top plate, and can you use without in the G30?
@@mtrout3394 Yes, that would be best. You should not really need to stir the mash on a G30. Are you experiencing bad efficiency? Perhaps I can help there.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew many thanks! I find it gets a bit "stuck" at start drainage is poor and overflow pipe is used. I am METICULOUS about doughing in and take a good long time . I find without stiring, I tend to miss the target OG. I've watched your video on hitting OG and I tick everything off
@@DavidHeathHomebrew ah. So. Just brewed a Belgian Triple. Predicted OG of 1087, measured was 1060 without stirring! Again, I think it gets a bit stuck
I am currently in the EU and want to buy the G40 but will be moving back to the UK in a years time. Is it possible to use the EU version in the UK? Any input would be much appreciated 🙏
Hi Matt, I just checked with GF. The EU and UK units are different. If you used an EU version in the UK you would need a 16 amp fuse rather than a 13 amp. The UK version has a power reducer. I hope this helps.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks for checking that out for me, much appreciated. I’m a bit useless with that type of thing, would it be easy enough to convert the EU one to the 13 amp fuse when I move back eventually? Or the UK one to 16amp?
God video white god info ! Thanks 🙏 The size of it its that’s worry my for homebrowing. G30 it’s smaller and easy to store. But G40 looks the same size as G70, massive 🤓. but in the further they relies a G20 model to? Like the Braumeister 20 / Brewster/brewmonk size for easy small homebrew.
Nice video David, as always. Did you brew in manual or automatic mode? Im curious whether the g40 is plagued with the app issues with incorrect gravity variances (when compared to the brewfather info). If automatic mode is useless, im thinking of biting the bullet and getting a B40 instead. thank you.
Thanks Andrew. I brewed in auto mode with the GF app. It worked well, though I am a Brewfather fan so will revert to that for the future once all is set up in BF.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks David. I remembered watching your G70 video from last year about Gravity being off so it made me a little cautious. Sounds like the G40 might be a different beast. Nice work!
Thanks Andrew. Yes the G70 was very different at launch and for some months after. The G40 is certainly enjoying a better design and is thankfully market ready.
I had mash effec set at 80% and the numbers were reached easily each brew so far. I could have increased on this with some stirring I feel during the mash.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew so you ran machine as per instructions and hit 80% on a low grain bill and on a high bill ? No over shooting at all? So what gravity is achievable for 2 corny kegs worth? Tia
I think its pretty good considering the new design. Certainly this is more bullet and future proof than the G30 and G70. Nice easy fully working launch too 🍻🍻🍻
Thank you :) I think it depends on your needs. If you could answer the following:- 1) Do you want a guided brewing experience? 2) What batch sizes interest you? 3) Are you happy to pay more for the technology?
My G40 crapped out over a week ago on my 6th brew... GF are assessing my broken unit by osmosis and refuse to replace it under warranty... buyer beware.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I'm more than happy to send you the correspondence from the GF support team so far. They have done nothing other than provide excuses. Honestly, i am so disappointed with GF, I'm making it my personal mission to warn everyone about their reluctance to replace faulty units under warranty.
Thanks David, I will fire it through. You will see from the last 2 exchanges the direct threat of legal action, miraculously the technical team wrapped up their investigations and agreed to replace it under warranty. Successfully (remotely and without looking at it) concluding the element is broken, something I stated at at the very beginning... Warranty claims should not be this hard.
Please do forward what you have to me. I would like to make a stand on this. After sales is the most important part of the process and it just has to be easy. Anything else is just bad for the homebrew sector.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Having owned the G30 for 7 years and completing 100 brews I decided to upgrade to the G40. I only replaced one item on the G30 which was the plastic base and this was due to mis-handling on my part and the replacement cost was minimal. I sold it for a good price too. I have done 12 brews in the G40 and am very pleased with it but you need to spend some time establishing the equipment profile. In particular the boil off rate and the trub losses. I have a NZ/Australia system and a 15 Amp / 230 Volt power supply and have found the boil off is a lot higher than the G30, almost double, so I reduce the heating to 80 or 85% depending on ambiant temperature. I love the wifi, way better range than Bluetooth, I love the ease of cleaning (in place), I like the heavier gauge steel and I like the half hour shorter brew time. An excellent product that I am happy to recommend to all brewers. BTW I use an external temperature sensor to monitor the out flow from the chiller so don't see that as a big problem
Hey 🍻🍻🍻
Yes the heating element on the G40 is a real beast compared to the one on the G30.
Informative as always David. I have been brewing with the G30 for about 6 years but thought the G40 is the game changer I have been looking for and bought it 2 days ago. Brewed today and it is awesome! I will definitely be upgrading to the 15 amp (Australian version) as I found the boil a bit lack lustre. Great efficiency and clean up is a joy with so few components. Can't wait for my next brew!
Cheers Darren. All my testing was done at 16 amp at 230v and the G40 is certainly a real beast
Agree - needs a coat or 15amp or both for Australian/NZ model. Still easy to use and great experience, but there are a number of people watching US/UK/EU content and expecting AUS 10amp G40 to perform the same.
Yeah thats not going to work :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew what's not going to work??
10 amps :)
Looks like a good unit. Something to look forward too when my trusty G30 finally gives up.
Sure is. Cheers Cameron 🍻🍻🎉
Thanks David. Nice system for G30 users wanting to update or for beginners wanting larger batches with a higher purchase budget available, because it does cost more than some 40 litre systems, but the GF offers good consistency and better quality then lower budget alternatives. Also nice to see the move to WiFi from Bluetooth connectivity with the controller.
Cheers Tim. Yes, its a good option. Plenty for people to weigh up for themselves.
Hi David, Great video, thanks.
I have just completed my first brew with the G40 (from upgrading from the g30). It was such a simple day. I do not miss the silicone gaskets and the lack of the pipe work makes cleaning up some much simpler. Also the bottom drain is fantastic and I will be add a tap there for the next brew.
The only issue was my efficiency during mash. I massively under shot my target. This has never happened on the G30, I have always over shot. The recipe I picked was from a local shop and had great reviews , but most reviews all stated they over shot their targets as well.
The app suggested a no sparge brew as it would all fit in the kettle, so I thought I would give this a whirl. Also, the “instruction manual” does not go into any detail of the mash procedure. So after doughing in I took a ph reading added acid and stirred and took another reading, so in the first 5 mins of the mash, it got about 3 stirs. During the rest of the mash, the recirculation pipe was connected (resting toward the top of the wort) and the pump on full (not sure if this was correct, should it be turned down, if so how much)
Any way, any tips or suggestions why my efficiency was so bad, I would be greatly appreciative
Thanks
Pete
Hi Peter, Ive not tried a no sparge brew and probably would avoid it but so far my effeciences with a sparge have been high. You do need to enable it in the app though. I think this would have cost you some losses.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks for your reply. would you avoid a no sparge brew solely due to efficiencies, or are there other reasons?
I actually find that for my taste no sparge beers miss a certain something but its the effeciency loss too.
Damn, David, you really made me drooling! Incredible review, and I totally trust your opinion. At least now I know what I want next. Thanks for your great videos!
Thanks Roman, did you see the S40 video too?
@@DavidHeathHomebrew No, thx for the hint - I'll watch that asap.
It was released by GF on the same day alongside the G40.
As always, David, you have provided a lot of helpful information. I was most interested in the information regarding the recirculation process during the mash. Initially, the thought of laying the recirculation tube on or in the grain bed seemed like an inefficient way to recirculate. Without a top plate I thought the mash efficiency would suffer but the sped up footage of the recirculating you provided illustrates otherwise. Thank you for taking the time to show that part of the mash process. I greatly appreciate your work.
Thanks Michael. Yes, I thought it was an important point too. Certainly it is very efficient and just watching it mash shows this pretty clearly.
Thankd David Finally i’ll update my G30 for the G40 Just wait the US-Canadian version
It sure is a nice upgrade.
I have been waiting for this, love the amount of detail and full information that you give, I am thinking that this is the upgrade I have been waiting for. I just wish the price was lower!!
Cheers Alan. Yes, I think its vital to give as much information as possible :)
Great video and fantastic review, David!
I already own the very first version of G30 and absolutely love it. This one could be the next upgrade allowing me to do single or double batch, but also great to see that I can do single or double session batches as well! Incredible versatility!
Thank you, much appreciated. This is a pretty large upgrade for sure.
Thank you again. Have been waiting for this. I consider to upgrade from my G30 which have served me well for many brews, but for every of my last brews, I have struggled to reach boil temperature, especially on stronger wort. Very annoying timeconsuming.
Your video gave a lot of useful information.
Great to hear. The G40 is certainly a huge upgrade
What power do you run the G30 on? Do you insulate the boiler? G30 should have a good boil (at least mine does; 10amp 240v with 2200W). G40 is a great system for sure but your G30 shouldn't be giving you issues.
@@StassBrewing Hi,
The problem is not the boil, but getting up to boiling. I have 240V/16Amp/2200W.
Never had the issue with my first 50 brews. During my last brew, I had to press the reset button under the boiler several times, I scratched the bottom, and finally got up to 100 degrees C. Seems like the problem is getting worse for every brew.
When the boil is established, it keeps a nice, steady rolling boil during the entire boiltime.
Jan, I would suggest that you do the following:-
1) Add afew tablespoons of PBW or similar to 2L of water and heat to 55C. Take the heat off and leave for afew hours.
2) Rinse out with water
3) Add enough diluted starsan to cover the bottom and leave over night or a similar period.
4) Rinse out and then test with 5L of water.
I suspect that you have protein deposits on the bottom plate and this process will remove them.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I do careful cleaning after every brew, but will try your "receipe" Thank you so much.
Looks like a solid and well-thought out system, with good user experience. Nice to see our tools and toys improving :-)
Cheers Marcus, yes absolutely.
Great video David, some interesting improvements & I agree it should be simple! Cheers
Cheers Ken :)
...must...watch.. grain... Oh geez I was hypnotized.. lol Good to hear they fixed the temp issue quickly. I like the sight glass better than the G70. Nice video David! 👍🍻
Thanks Brian. Sure is a system of many improvements
@@DavidHeathHomebrew 👍🍻
🍻🍻🍻
yeh it's nice to read - easier than the G70, but it can be a little touchy with pack-pressure from wort recirc etc. And you can't read it when you're transferring wort to see how much you have transferred. Small things I guess but worth pointing out.
Nice system, especially since I'm a fan of reasonable integrated solutions. Price is expensive, but it seems to be OK for the quality.
Over most of the last year and early 2021, I considered to buy a Brewtools B40pro, but in the end I decided it is too expensive. I also thought of buying a G30, but after seeing the G70 I hesitated since a pending update was obvious. Unfortunaletly, instead of waiting, I upgraded my traditional setup with with SS-Brewtech kettles, a new malt mill, automatic brew paddle/stirrer and many TriClover parts etc. I will wait and see other peoples experiences with the G40. Perhaps I will buy one in 1-2 years.
Cheers Riccardo. Yes certainly the systems you mention are not cheap but for various good reasons.
Great video again David, my only issue is i might have to get one ! :-) Some great upgrades to the existing models
Cheers Davie, yes for sure :) p
Cheers! Nice video David! Around 9:56 you show there is about 400ml of water left after the G40 is empty. How do/can you remove it without the need for tilting?
Thanks Ramon. This is removed without tilting via the bottom tap.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thanks for your quick response! Great user experience. 👌🏻
Cheers Ramon 🍻
Oh yeah long awaited 😀😀😀😀
Cheers 🍻🍻🍻
Sounds like 5% more efficiency than the g30 and less headache. Wonder how you’ll fix your hop rocket… thanks a lot for sharing. Once it arrived in Switzerland I think upgrade from 30 to 40.
One thing missing in the video is how it settles in in price point vs the connected competition of braumeister and brewtools. Its a very interesting offering!!
Yes true. I need to figure out hop missile, should not be too hard. Comparisons to other brewing systems will come in time.
Very nice first impression David. Did you made 48 brews with the system in this short time? Wow !
Thanks Chris. No, thats relative to using the GF app after a certain point in time.
HI David! Again a very nice and clear video. I am wondering if there could be ways to install a side-glass volume indicator on my G30. Any ideas?
Thanks Luiz. I know that some have converted the recirculation pipe but this is not something that I have done.
Great video, I would have like to know a bit more about the 10amp and 15amp, for instance can you switch from 10 to 15 during the mash (would have to be plugged into 15amp socket off course) so then I could use 10amp/2400W for step mashing, then switch to 15amp/3600W for the boil, is something like that possible? To help avoid scorching,
Also on scorching I vaguely remember in one of your older videos you mentioned something like a conical shaped bottom to avoid that, it’s that correct?
Also can it be used with distilling attachments like the G30 could?
Thanks Mark. The amp switching is just for NZ only, so not something I know much about sadly. This will not scorch as it has ultra low watt density heating elements. The G40 doesn’t have the same set up for distilling in the same way that the G30 has.
Hi David hope you had a great Christmas
I'm just wondering what do you think of the new fancy kegeraters would you recommend them as I'm about to purchase one ok them thanks
Ps I managed to get 1000€ back for my grainfather g40 happy days and I'd like to wish you and yours a very Happy and a peaceful New year cheers keep up the videos
Many thanks . I really love my series x. Four taps and kegs works great. Which ever way you go I think you will find these videos handy:- ua-cam.com/video/VoAzVvbRoOk/v-deo.html
David, I have just ordered a G40 and am curious to know if you maintained the same grain crush gap with the new system. Looking forward to your G40 Tips and Tricks video when it comes out.
Congrats James.
Yes, I am using the same crush as always. I will do some further experimentation too but at least in the early days ive kept it as is.
has the G40 a Resetbutton like the G30 and what happens when there is too less Mash unter the basket? Can this happen? Thx for answering and more Videos with this little cutie =)
No, there is no need for a reset on the G40.
The G40 design has cured that issue with low mash water compared with the G70.
Would be very interested to hear what the realistic minimum small batch size is for this machine with a reliable efficiency and allowing for sparging
I can confirm that 10L works well when brewing standard. I believe smaller amounts will be possible too with in mash stirring.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew 10L as full-volume mash or with sparge?
As a final output. This is the minimum quoted by GF.
I can't help wondering if a spray arm like the new Blichmann Breweasy Compact has wouldn't increase the efficiency.
The efficiency is already high :)
Great video, thanks a lot! Very helpful seeing the mash timelapse. However, Do you think a splitted hose will give more even stirring, and prevent the grain from collecting on one side? Might also get the G40 :)
Thanks Max. The design as is works just fine 🍻🍻
Hi David, and thank you for this very thorough Walk through. One thing I wonder about is the overflow system on the G40. Dosen’t the vertical Perferation means That the gratin bed gets partly bypassed constantly, as the Water always Will flow the easiest route?
Br Kristjan
Thanks. No, in fact this design has proven to be very effecient. I am impressed.
Thanks once again for an informative video. Even though i do not brew often and my g30 still has a very low brew count, i am certainly considering upgrade. The thing i hate is the cleaning after brewing. You really need to wash the malt pipe outside the g30 and turn the system upside down to get it washed imo. So, is the g40 really much better in this sense? CIP really works? How would you overall describe, how the upgrade will make the brewday easier (if any) and/or faster?
The G40 is easy to clean, there is no tipping as such but its similar in terms of time really.
You will find the system faster due to the extra power and certainly its a more deluxe package. Having no middle pipework certainly is easier and more consistent too. Its a decent upgrade, you just need to figure out the cost really I would say.
Hey David,
First of all, thanks a billion for all your great content. Totally love it and learned a lot from you.
I've been brewing with the Grainfather G40 now for a while, and am wondering if a potential top mash plate would be from any value. What do you think?
From what I expect, it could help diving the circulating wort a bit better on the grain bill, but at the same time you can't really stir on the bill when the plate is in place.
When using the G30 I also got rid of the top plate pretty often.
Looking forward to hear from you what you think!
Cheers from the 🇳🇱
M.
I answered this for you on the the first posting.
Thanks! 🙏🏻
🍻🍻🍻
David, thank you again for a very informative and excellent video. I do have to question how this system can deliver enough for filling 2 corny kegs (18 or 19 L) after fermentation? You have to take in account all losses with trub in the kettle and fermenter, so for me it doesn't ad up. I use a Brewzilla 65, real volume 55 L, and need to aim for 44-46 L to fill up 2 corny kegs.
Hi Stefan, the losses are very small in the G40. 40L out is easy enough, this is 46L.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Great video thanks David. I had the same question, as am keen to upgrade from the g30 to be able to fill 2 kegs. I also can’t reconcile how it can produce 46L when the max pre boil volume is 46L? Cheers
Its a 46L system capable of up to 40L output. So enough for 2x19L corny kegs.
A couple of cons, is that this system has an integrated pump that recirculates thru the site glass. If there is a problem with the pump, which there will be, at least at some point, what do you do? Depending on whether or how you sparge you may need another kettle or container to pump out some of the initial hot water too for the sparge water. Lifting the grain basket out of the brew kettle post mash and sparge you will probably drip all over your floor unless you can quickly put it into a close bucket etc. Video did not explain or show cleanup procedures so not sure how that works or if there is any time you might save. All in all for the price of this product not sure this would be an answer for some homebrewer that has decided they want to go electric.
Hi Harry, if the pump fails then I would simply use one of my transfer pumps but I take your point and agree.
The cleaning procedure here is the same as any other all in one.
Yes, in regards to price there certainly are cheaper systems out there. Having said that none are as sturdy as this, though it is questionable if this is actually needed.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks for your video and review. All in one systems are certainly viable for some homebrewers who want to go electric but do not want to deal with a 2 or 3 kettle system with external pumps and controller etc. There are positives and cons for almost any system you build or buy.
Oh for sure. Pros and cons all round. I personally would not go back to a multiple vessel set up again though.
Hi great video as normal
Lots of info but nothing about power supply is it same as a G30 UK plug 230v or G70 three phase power needing an electrician ?
Thank you. This is 2900w in the UK and can be used with 13 amp.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew
Great as that was the reason i didn't even consider the G70
Just got to sweet talk the wife now lol
Thanks for the fast reply
Good luck there 🍻
Here is a link to the quick start guide, it confirms the power plus more :- www.themaltmiller.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Grainfather-G40-Instructions-High-Res.pdf
Reale interesting, the 400 ml that is remain in the system, does that also apply for the wort ?
Is there a big difference in efficiency on a net basket as Claw hammer supply use VS new G40 ?
I am using the net basket in my China bucket, works great however the whole bucket is a bit flimsy overall.
Cool review 👍
Cheers Allan. The 400ml is essentially the bulk of the losses. Which is pretty impressive stuff. Yes, ive seen 5% more efficiency so far in general but ive not tried everything yet of course :)
Great Video Thank You. David there is mention of a 10amp and 15amp mode in the manual is this relevant in the UK? If so I have 16Amp connection so would definately like to make use of the 15amp mode. Thank You
Hi Vicky, this is just for Australia. The UK version is ready for your set up :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew David I contacted Grainfather Tech and I have converted my G40 (with grainfathers help) to the 15A version. I will probably do a Post on it. You need to remove the bottom plastic stand plate and then remove a jumper pin on the power box (white loop of wire on 3pin plug). That puts the G40 in the EU mode and you can then siwtch the 15a mode. Note I have full16A RCA protected dedicated Curcuit (commando connector) this is not for use with standrd Uk 13A plug. Pete
Cheers Pete, sounds easy enough.
Great video and rundown of the unit. I have to say, while my comment and observation made on the announcement video still stays with regards to the perforations, the unit otherwise looks solid. Full drainability without hassle is a nice feature, and the pump filter design from the G70 is also greatly appreciated.
Is the pump able to run reliably during the boil?
Thank you. No problems with the pump at all. The different design sure helps compared to the G70.
Hi David. Thanks for another great review. Do you know if there are plans for a new fermentor ? The conical will obviously be too small for a full capacity brew.
Cheers 🍻 Nothing more for this year in that department. Personally I prefer smaller fermenters, more practical for those that need them to be portable.
Was thinking the same thing. I'm sure they'll be coming out with a 40 or something in between 30 and 70.
Maybe next year
I have known your channel very recently but I already like it very much. I wanted to ask you something. The heating element is not replaceable ok. Is there any way to replace it in ways that are not really motherly?
Great to hear Matteo. There is but apparently it would need to be done by someone skilled in such matters. GF are unsure if they will offer the heater element as a spare part. The could vary depending on your world region too. This information was provided by Grainfathers European branch.
Hi David, thanks again for the great video!!! After 5 years with my G30, I will probably order the G40 soon :-) A question: with you having access to a wide variety of systems (Brewtools, Grainfathers, Robobrews), which system would be your first choice for most brews in the months to come and why?
Thanks!
Cheers Terry. I am planning a comparison video. In truth I like all these systems for different reasons but I will present the facts after some thinking and filming.
David - many thanks for that. It looks like a real upgrade from the G30. Can you say anything more about CIP - is the possible with the G40 ?
Thanks Nick, sure is.
The cleaning is CIP and very easy. You will need a tap to drain fully though as shown.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew you can just undo the nut and let it drain out but agree - tap makes it easier.
True but if you can afford a G40 I think you can stretch to a tap, or perhaps not till next payday :p
Thank you David, as always a very informative video, keep up the great work! I’d be interested very much in your opinion which one‘s better, this G40 or the Brewtools b40 pro (costs aside). I understand you haven‘t made a lot of brews with this one yet….what would you say?
These are very different systems.
Brewtools is quite a bit more expensive by the time you have added everything you need beyond the basic brewing system package but certainly the quality is higher and every part is replaceable.
Brewtools offers more flexibility for the way that you brew but is also much more complex to set up and learn to use.
The controller on Brewtools is a touchscreen that is wifi connected but without a guided experience or sparge counter.
Some really like this combination where as others say the product is over engineered and more complex than is needed.
The GF G40 is going to save you money compared to the Brewtools but the heating element is not replaceable. Having said this, there is no reason why this will not last at least 10 years.
The quality of the G40 is a lot higher than a G30 being very sturdy and well finished.
The G40 has a set way to brew that works well and the controller and smart app work a nice guided easy process with good information.
There is no real learning curve at all.
Thanks for your video's David!
They are amazing!
I bought a G40 and had 2 brews with it to find out that at the end the pump clogs up terribly and i am having a really HARD time to get my brew pumped into the fermenter. Blowing through the hose etc. etc. Do you know of this problem? Or anyone here? Up til now i am not happy with it.....
Hi Rene, thanks. The design should not allow this. Have you removed and cleaned the bottom filter plate? If so then it sounds like a case to bring up with GF. Ive not had any issues personally.
Hi David, thanks for the reply. What actually happened is that the bottom filter plate was totally clogged up. Maybe the grains were milled too fine? I use a Hopsock for the hops so that should be no issue. The store where i buy my grains will mill the grains for you if you want. I used that service the last 2 times but will do it myself next time and see what happens....... Thanks again!
Yes, if there are small grain bits then these can cause clogging for sure. The hops also form part of the filters design, so I suggest not using hop socks in future. You do not need them at all with the G40.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Ok, i will try that with my next brew. Thanks again for your reply and keep making those amazing video’s, i’ve learned a lot from them! Greetings from a Dutchman living and brewing in Switzerland 👍🏻
Cheers 🍻🍻🍻
Awesome video as always David. I’m curious regarding any replacement parts. I think the G40 comes with 3 yr warranty and assume most parts are modular, but I am unsure if the heating element is modular as well? If not and if it were to go out after the warranty timeline is there anything an owner can do? Or are you pretty much left with a now broken system and now need to buy a new system?
Thank you. The heating can be replaced in the G40, however it is a specialist job to replace.
Thanks for a great video 👍
Wanted to ask you if the G40 is ok to handle for 1 person? Or do you need a brewstand?
Thank you. I manage fine solo with it, I guess for a max size batch you might want 2 people lifting the grain basket if you are not a gym guy.
Do you think they are likely to release a perforated mash basket for the G30? Would be an excellent upgrade in my opinion!
Certainly GF have not mentioned this as part of their future plans but never say never! :)
Do you think the overflow (or any of the other) updates will eventually be introduced on the G30?
Maybe, nothing finalised though.
This would be a great thing for those who are happy with the G30, but want to get rid of the overflow pipe. Fingers crossed this comes out as a hardware update option.
For sure :)
This looks great and I think I'm going to push my budget and buy one. Is there no need for a hop spider with this? Can I just add pellets with no spider or bags?
Great. I dont like hop spiders due to the issues around utilisation. All my testing is just using the hops straight. GF told me they tried 1kg of hops in their testing with one brew and there was no issues or even slowdown. Ive not gone that far but certainly there is no need for a hop spider.
Malt miller and GF have tested with 1kg hops. I've done 2x 23L brews in my G40 both with approx 380g hops in the boil and there were no issues with filters getting clogged etc.
IS the minimum grain bill 3kg? Will I need to be using rice hulls to get a lower ABV in a 10L batch?
Yes but if you are happy to stir a little during the mash then less can be used. If you get the grain crush right then you will not need rice hulls unless you are mashing grain bills high in wheat or rye.
Hi David. I'm wondering if you're having problems with the pump on the g40. I have had 2 brews on it, on both brew days the pump would not start after boiling and I had to blow through the pump. I had to turn it off many times to get it started.
Hi, no nothing like that, sounds like you should contact where you bought it from.
Again great Video that pushed me over the edge and I ordered one yesterday! A question: Do you think you could add sugar (lets say 1 kg) to the G40 directly without a spider or dissoving it first? Or would it still burn the element, like on my G30?
Great to hear that you found this useful. You should be fine with the G40. It has low watt density heating.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew one less hassle :-)
Yep - added 500g lactose and 200g sugar direct to the boil yesterday and had no issues.
Nice content again, David! I’m very interested in this system. At the moment I have the Brewmonk 50 which is doing fine, but I’m looking for a more robust system with a higher quality. I didn’t buy the G30 at that time because of the low volume, especially for high gravity beers the Brewmonk gave more flexibility. Do you stir during the mash for an increased efficiency? I do it with the Brewmonk which is also adviced (every 15-20 min). I also squeeze the return flow a little, preventing the bottom to run dry. With the G40 this doesn’t seem to be necessary anymore?! Last question: what size did you use for the grain crush?
Hi, you dont need to stir the G40 but if you do then even higher efficiency is possible.
Hi David can you make 10 gallon batches in the g40 and how would you compare it to the brewzilla 64 thanks
Ps best value for money thanks
Hi Jack, yes 10 gallons is possible being the maximum brew size, enough to cover two corny kegs. The Brewzilla 65 offers the same. The GEN 4 Brewzilla units are not far away now and I recently got samples of the 35 and 65L models. Gen 4 shares a lot of the features found on the GF G40 but with a lower price tag. I am yet to fully test but these are looking very good. I will make a few different videos about these that will roll out before and after launch. This is late summer in Europe but I await a date for the US.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thanks David always nice to hear from you
Ps after 12 years of brewing I've just discovered that controlling your brew in your refrigerator makes all the difference between having a good brew and a brilliant one talk soon
Cheers Jack. It is a large jigsaw for sure 🍻🍻
@@DavidHeathHomebrew one more thing David is wlp002 any good for ale because when I used it in my oatmeal stout the flavour was horrible I do know that the 001 was fantastic what's your opinion
It should be, sounds like maybe something went wrong there.
What is the width measurement? Some say 555mm and others 530mm?
I have a stainless steel table, trying to see what I can fit with other brewing gear.
It is 555cm :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thanks 👍.
🍻🍻🍻
Hi David about the grainfather g40 can I make a ten gallon batch in it my ten gallon batch of oatmeal stout is not a large grain bill and its a beautiful stout poured on nitrogen snow White heads
Recipe is
13 pounds pale ale malt author Guinness uses it
25 ozs flaked oats
13 ozs crystal malt
13 ozs chocolate malt
8 ozs roast barley
3 ozs cara pills
3 ozs flaked barely
3 squars of chocolate
A few pinches of yeast neautrient
10 minutes
80 grams ekg 60
minutes
I'd love to know what you think My og is 1048
My fg is normally 1012 absolutely gorgeous you should try it cheers
One more thing I've used wlpoo1 two step starter that really stepped it up but s05 isn't bad either have you ever used wlp002 I have and it had a horrible flavour which yeast would you recommend for both stout and ale as you are the real expert on yeast and as I'm sure you know how yeast imparts flavour hope to hear from you soon cheers
Hi Jack, yes that should work no problem. Sounds great 🍻
So I did buy one and I'm really happy with it. Mixing grain each 15 mins during mashing gives efficiency > 85% on regular basis. I've got one question though: despite low mashing temperatures (62°C) the final beer always ends up too sweet for me. It leaves sticky lips... Dextrose? So far I did try Pilsner and APA with various Kveik: Voss, Lutra and M12. Is it a case for you too?
Hi, Sweetness is usually going to be where a fault is. Are you measuring your beer gravity before calling it finished?
@@DavidHeathHomebrew yes. FG is always 2-3 points above expected value. I use x4 yeast nutrients dose for Kveik and aeriate wort with stone and air pump. I do ferment APAs @35°C in GF30 for 5 days and then 2 days @20°C. With lutra I go 3 days@22°C, than after no activity in air lock 2 days @28°C and 3 days @18°C. so far I brew 4 APAs and 2 Pilsners, all of them did end up too sweet and leave sticky lips...
I normally leave kveik fermented brews for 7 days and hold the high temp. Why are you doing the lower temps after?
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I did read that it helps with clarity and aroma, I do keep A/IPAs 5 days@35°C, usually after 36h there's no activity in the airlock. gravity readout after 2 and 5 days is the same
What was the real world boil off volume? Time to boil? Efficiency?
The boil off is 3.5L per hour. I have consistent mash efficiency of 80%. Time to boil I have not taken but speed tests to mash temp are done in this comparison video:- ua-cam.com/video/HXSmAWlxQl0/v-deo.html
Great video! Im going to keep my G30 for 5 gallon batches but I would like a new system for 10 gallon batches. Would you recommend the G40 or G70? I know you had some issues with the G70 but the larger volume is a plus...Im not interested in the S series or the Brewzilla b/c I absolutely love the connectivity and everything about my G30. Thanks in advance, Erik
Thanks Erik. I would recommend the G40, it is very updated compared to the G70.
Thanks David. I wonder what the process would be for a Brewfather user who wants to use the guided features of the G40. Import the Brewfather recipe into Grainfather recipe app? What are your thoughts on this?
Thanks Mark. Yes, you can save the BF recipe in XML format and then import into the GF app for all the timings and water volumes. You will note a difference in the prefictions but this is to be expected.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew What grain crush size would you recommend for the G40? Thanks.
This is not something that can be generic advice due to the differences in grain. I suggest starting with a credit card sized gap and adjusting from there.
I suggest watching this for the full picture on this, its not just about roller gap size:- ua-cam.com/video/DpI4jh8Uj44/v-deo.html
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks!
1. I would have liked to see what you did for sparge. I like the top plate as when my sparge water hit it it was then spread around.
2. At 9.30 you show the set up you have for chilling. Seems like they have no solution for securing that return tube into the wort although you have your own work around
3. why can you not just cut the return tubing and install the wortmeter you already have?
4. Does the system come passivated? Did you passivated them?
You can fit the return pipe from the chiller between the support ring around the top - not ideal but it works. The issue with the wortometer is the temp probes from the G40 are mounted in the bottom of the boiler and can't be removed. @Homebrew Griffo uses his wortometer with his old grainfather temp probe with his G40. Cheers
Thanks Paul and Stass. Here are some answers
1) Its the same as any other sparge you are just not having a top plate. I thought that I showed it.
2) Yes, there are various things you can do here, its left rather open
3) The wortometer relies on being able to connect a temp probe which is separate on the G30 , so as such not suitable for the G40 by standard.
4) Ive not and I am unsure what treatments, if any , are standard. Ive now asked GF for comment, so lets see.
Cheers as always David. I think you showed the sparge only on the s40 video.
Ahh fair enough, its been hectic weeks recently :)
Hi David, Has your opinion of the G70 changed at all since your last video in 2020? I believe they had an additional firmware update since your second review of the system. LMK thanks
Hi, I have not had the opportunity since to try the G70, so it is impossible to say. I see people having some problems still but others who do not.
A wee bit expencive for my budget. Will it run on the Norwegian power grid and 10 amp? I have been saving for a G30, but the G40 looks better and I do like the space for a big beer with more grain.
I am using mine in Norway but with 15 amp. I think you need that. Its a massive upgrade on a G30 for sure.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew after checking my curcuitbox I figured it out. Mostly 16amps in the house. All good. I will probably get one in Grimstad tomorrow. Short roadtrip from where I live with my 16 amps 😂
Great, actually I think mine is 16 amps too.
Do you think it would work if I drilled similar holes on the side of my brewzilla65, and removed the overflow pipe? I never liked that design.
This I am not able to advise on, if you try it then I would be interested to hear how it goes :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks. I will think about it 🙂I can't see why it would not work tho.
I agree 🍻🍻🍻
Excellent content thankyou
Cheers Ned 🍻🍻🍻
In your comparison video for the G70, Brewtools B80, and Brewzilla, you mentioned the relatively poor finish on the G70, even compared to the much less expensive Brewzilla. The G40 seems to have borrowed many of the design features of the G70, while improving on others. What is your general impression of the build quality of this unit? Does it suffer from finish issues similar to those you noted with the G70?
Also, I have seen problems reported with what I am guessing was cavitation of the G70 pump and in another reviewer's G40 video, he seemed to be experiencing similar issues. It sounded to me like the self-priming feature wasn't working reliably. In your limited testing, have you encountered any such issues with the G40?
Certainly I had issues with the G70 which included the finish and pump. I found the G40 to be much better in this regard compared. It seems to me that important lessons have been learnt in various areas. The redesign is key for sure.
Hi David, I'm planning my first brew on my G40 in a few days. When making the recipe I noted a big difference in Brewfather vs Grainfather. For my 24 liter tripel recipe Grainfather suggests a 34.75 liter mash volume and no spage, Brewfather however suggests a 22.33 liter mash and a 11.36 liter spage. Is this an error in the Grainfather software or is going the no spage route the way to go? What are your thoughts?
Yes, there is big differences between these. Ive just followed the GF software so far for the G40 but with sparge selected and its been fine. Are you sure that you do not have it set as “no sparge”?
You are right! It was set to ‘no sparge’. This must be a default setting, since I never set it to ‘no sparge’. Thanks! This really helped.
@@v.hamers4652 Yes, It was the same for me :)
Chiller question - can you do a detailed video for using the chiller? I’ve been using the G30 and the instructions and videos out there are inconsistent. Step 1) run wort 2 to 5 minutes to sanitize? Step 2) Start cold water then run back into kettle until tube feels cool; this took 25 minutes and my tap water is 76 F? Step 3) Then move at a slow rate to fermenter. So how do all the steps affect the outcome quality? Seems like Step 2 for 25 minutes may be a problem? Thanks much.
I already have :) ua-cam.com/video/JRNdMxKaDIE/v-deo.html
My biggest issue has always been the amount of hops it can take... so I'd love to know how it handles big hoppy recipes. As an example my G30 will clog up with 80-100g of hops added to the whirlpool - and I often use double or more than that for Double IPAs or Hazy's which renders the counter chiller and pump useless - I tend to use an immersion chiller and syphon now :(
Apparently tests have been done sucessfully with 1kg of hops. This is very improved compared to the G30.
Would using a false bottom help here?
With the G30? For sure
Trust me when I say the beer you brew would probably make me gag.
Hoppy beer certainly isnt for everyone!
I normally stir my G30 mash every 15mns but removing the top plate is a faff. I see in comments that you said it's not necessary but increases efficiency. What is the actual purpose of the top plate, and can you use without in the G30?
The G30 top plate is there to increase effeciency.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew then it shall stay. Thanks
@@mtrout3394 Yes, that would be best. You should not really need to stir the mash on a G30. Are you experiencing bad efficiency? Perhaps I can help there.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew many thanks! I find it gets a bit "stuck" at start drainage is poor and overflow pipe is used. I am METICULOUS about doughing in and take a good long time . I find without stiring, I tend to miss the target OG. I've watched your video on hitting OG and I tick everything off
@@DavidHeathHomebrew ah. So. Just brewed a Belgian Triple. Predicted OG of 1087, measured was 1060 without stirring! Again, I think it gets a bit stuck
I am currently in the EU and want to buy the G40 but will be moving back to the UK in a years time. Is it possible to use the EU version in the UK? Any input would be much appreciated 🙏
Hi Matt, I just checked with GF. The EU and UK units are different. If you used an EU version in the UK you would need a 16 amp fuse rather than a 13 amp. The UK version has a power reducer. I hope this helps.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks for checking that out for me, much appreciated. I’m a bit useless with that type of thing, would it be easy enough to convert the EU one to the 13 amp fuse when I move back eventually? Or the UK one to 16amp?
The best way is to buy the EU version and use 15amp in the EU and 16 amp in the UK
God video white god info ! Thanks 🙏
The size of it its that’s worry my for homebrowing. G30 it’s smaller and easy to store. But G40 looks the same size as G70, massive 🤓. but in the further they relies a G20 model to? Like the Braumeister 20 / Brewster/brewmonk size for easy small homebrew.
The G30 is a fair bit smaller than the G70. I think the G30 will be the smallest.
What's the reason you can't use the wortometer with this unit?
The temp probe on the was removable on the G30. It isnt on any other GF system.
Nice video David, as always. Did you brew in manual or automatic mode? Im curious whether the g40 is plagued with the app issues with incorrect gravity variances (when compared to the brewfather info). If automatic mode is useless, im thinking of biting the bullet and getting a B40 instead. thank you.
Thanks Andrew. I brewed in auto mode with the GF app. It worked well, though I am a Brewfather fan so will revert to that for the future once all is set up in BF.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks David. I remembered watching your G70 video from last year about Gravity being off so it made me a little cautious. Sounds like the G40 might be a different beast. Nice work!
Thanks Andrew. Yes the G70 was very different at launch and for some months after. The G40 is certainly enjoying a better design and is thankfully market ready.
Will there come like the g30 distilling options?
This is planned for the future
@@DavidHeathHomebrew ok this is nice!
Hello, looking good =) washing is my enemy in brewing, sins this is a new system i was hope for more om that =) ty for a great vid =)
Its an easy clean up for sure, nothing unusual about it. No need to lift the system even.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thats realy good, will sit by the window now , looking for a mail truck =)
Great 🍻🍻🍻 Congratulations 🍻🍻🍻
So what mash efficiency did you achieve per grain bill ,tia
I had mash effec set at 80% and the numbers were reached easily each brew so far. I could have increased on this with some stirring I feel during the mash.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew so you ran machine as per instructions and hit 80% on a low grain bill and on a high bill ? No over shooting at all? So what gravity is achievable for 2 corny kegs worth? Tia
Yes thats correct. I am yet to try max grain bill but I did include the suspected max grain bill details.
Thank you
Cheers 🍻🍻🍻
Correction "sight-glass"
.
Ser ut som en bra brygger men pris er for høy mot G30 eller G7o
I think its pretty good considering the new design. Certainly this is more bullet and future proof than the G30 and G70. Nice easy fully working launch too 🍻🍻🍻
Hi David, what do you recommend old G30 or S40? I am a beginner brewer :). Great channel, good job:)
Thank you :)
I think it depends on your needs.
If you could answer the following:-
1) Do you want a guided brewing experience?
2) What batch sizes interest you?
3) Are you happy to pay more for the technology?
My G40 crapped out over a week ago on my 6th brew... GF are assessing my broken unit by osmosis and refuse to replace it under warranty... buyer beware.
Thanks for the honesty, much appreciated.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I'm more than happy to send you the correspondence from the GF support team so far. They have done nothing other than provide excuses.
Honestly, i am so disappointed with GF, I'm making it my personal mission to warn everyone about their reluctance to replace faulty units under warranty.
Great thanks Scott. Could you sent it to me at this email:- david@olbrygging.no
If I can then I will try to help you get this solved the right way.
Thanks David, I will fire it through. You will see from the last 2 exchanges the direct threat of legal action, miraculously the technical team wrapped up their investigations and agreed to replace it under warranty.
Successfully (remotely and without looking at it) concluding the element is broken, something I stated at at the very beginning...
Warranty claims should not be this hard.
Please do forward what you have to me. I would like to make a stand on this. After sales is the most important part of the process and it just has to be easy. Anything else is just bad for the homebrew sector.