BMW R1100R Fork Seal Replacement
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- A little how I did it on replacing the fork seals on the BMW R1100R. It should be the same approach for all the tele lever BMWs. Its definitely an easier job than upside down forks or conventional forks.
Got it done, not so bad. I have a 2011 Yamaha Stryker, took it in for inspection, needed fork seals, $440 Canadian. Thanks for your help.
Great video! Really appreciate it!
Hello again from Canada. Wondering if you ever had to do a ABS reset? I bought a 1998 R1100R just this week and the ABS lights seem to be doing odd stuff. I think it needs a reset. I have read that the lights may indicate a weak battery...but if a reset is possible, I'd like to try that first. Any ideas? Thanks.
I've been lucky and not experienced any issues from the ABS unit yet. The easiest way to check if it's the battery which is the one thing I do have. Is start the bike and if its doing the alternative light flashing, ride for five ten mins and then turn off and restart the bike. Then the lights for me flash together and behave normally. So I know I've got a battery that is on its way out. I have got this link bookmarked for when issues will arise on the ABS unit largiader.com/abs/absfault.html
Thanks... I'll get my battery checked.
This is a known issue with this bike. I've got one, and it's a crap shoot if the ABS is going to come on or not. From what I've been able to figure out, you need a practically brand new battery for the ABS system to come on reliably. My personal opinion is they have a voltage sense algorithm in there that is way too fussy about startup voltage. When you are starting, the motor draws a lot of current and drops the voltage dramatically. I think this goes below some pre-determined threshold.
@@randyp3871yeah... I had the battery tested, it's 100%. Rode the other day, lights went off. Yesterday they stayed flashing. Thanks for your comment.
I am about to try this. I don't understand how you can turn the left handlebar and get the right tube to get misaligned so that it can be pulled out. The lower forks are tied together with a steel plate, and the wheel is still tight to the axle. How can the whole assembly flex enough for the tube to come out past the top fork? The left fork tube is still tight to the top plate! I'm missing something here. I will report back in a week or two after I try it.
I wondered the same thing when I read how it could be done. That’s why I thought showing it would help. There is enough wiggle room for you to access the top and it’ll make sense when you try.
Thanks for posting! I have a 2004 with leaking seals. I will be tackling them soon. Did change the fork oil? If so, what oil did you use and how much per fork?
Thanks!
Since the fork oil is just for lubricant ion not part of the damping I just topped it up to replace the little that dripped out. I think it was about 5ml I added back. I’ll have to check from the book what fork oil I used.
Motol 10w fork oil kits available on eBay I think it 470mls per side.
What yr is that one? I'm looking at a 1998, wonderg if it's the same procedure.
It’s a 1995. It’ll be the same process for yours too.
98 has the upgraded gauge cluster I believe
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