WATERPROOF Casting Deck Hatch w/ FIBERGLASS RESIN On Jon Boat (STEP BY STEP)
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- Опубліковано 4 лют 2019
- Cuzins,
In this video I do a STEP BY STEP full build of a WATERPROOF casting deck hatch identical to the ones in my #topgunjonboat build.
This includes a walk through of materials and tools needed as well as an in depth step by step build process.
If you like what you see, please SUBSCRIBE to my channel!
Comments and questions welcome, I do my best to respond!!!
ENJOY
This is the FIRST seal method I am willing to adopt in my builds. Banger Anthony! 👊
Thanks so much! Definitely more work, but the again, I believe that is even debatable. If you can paint oil based paint, I believe you can paint on resin. It self levels. I know I probably make it look easy but its really not that hard. Biggest thing is getting a feel for your hardener to resin ratio and finding an efficient work time and a dry time that doesn't take all day. A happy medium. Sure I've had practice but I believe this is a long term method over oil based paint and has more pros than cons to me. Glad you approve!
Awesome info. I will incorporate the extra support on the latches in current build.
Go Dawgs! Thanks for putting the video together. Very helpful.
That looks amazing. Thank you for this video. I’m using this method on a speaker box so it’s going to look amazing.
Outstanding video. Thank you for the link.
That's the best deck protection video I've ever seen! 👍👍
Thanks man, definitely more work than just painting. Not the easiest method but it's how I did it in my build and I feel it worked great!
Help me a lot, I will do it same to my boat project. Thanks
Awesome video! Thank you so much
I'm replacing the fuel tank deck hatch on my sea ray bowrider, and this answered my question whether to paint it or resin!! Thanks!
No problem, hlad it helped
Super impressive stuff man. Makes me want to tear off my new deck and switch.
Great work, always such high quality! Will be using a lot of your ways in my build and going back on stuff i have already done to improve them! Keep it up 👍🏻
Awesome man, glad to hear it
nice work. I subbed. using this on my Military Overland Trailer
a few weeks ago I went to home depot to grab a couple cans of that fiberglass resin - and I remembered what you said about checking for the hardener. The first few in front - the hardener was missing. I had to dig in the back to get some cans that still had the hardener under the lid.
Very impressive, I’ll be saving this one for my build starting really soon. Love the content good stuff bro 👍
Thank you sir.
Pretty clever I love these vids I used all your videos to convert my boat you help Aton just gained a sub Roll Tide!
Thanks 4 the support , Bama fans welcome on my channel as well.
If you had used fiberglass cloth, you wouldn't need the center piece of wood because the cloth is what adds about 20X the strength to fiberglass resin. In fact, you could use 1/2 foam board from Home Depot for your hatches and decking if you use epoxy resin. Think about it.. people stand on surfboards, and they are only foam and glass cloth in resin. That would be a super lightweight build.
Nice Dr. Jones thanks for the vids bro!
No problem man
Anthony Jones u the man
@@bitenbass Haha thanks, we will see about that after I put this hatch under some extreme water testing!
Anthony Jones ur vids are great bro and helpful appreciate them and mike Lopez tiny boat nation as well
Man! I also live in Ga. I live in north Ga closer to Chattanooga Tennessee. You just gained another subscriber. 🤙
Thanks man! GO DAWGS!
"I'm a little bit wild, man" 😂
Fiberglass resin on that wood gives it strength. This way of doing it is far superior to just painting the wood. Great video. Great demonstration. Love your content. Cannot wait till you start showing us you actually using that boat on the water. Tight lines bro! Keep up the good work!
Thank you. Hopefully get it wrapped up soon and can start fishing!
@@AnthonyJonesBrigadeBoats cannot wait to see you enjoying the fruits of your labor.
I am new to this and just bought my first Jon boat. Its a 14ft Alumacraft. I have been doing lots of studying trying to learn how to frame, add a live well, big casting deck. So your videos are invaluable. Curious as to how long you have been working on this build?
Hey brother, stripping floor out of my aluminium 5.6m cuddy cab today and buying material to replace tomorrow.
I was going to use marine ply, and seal with a very thin coat of oil based paint to penetrate wood, then a couple of coats of paint not thinned. Then carpet.
Would you suggest using standard plywood and sealing with resin as you do instead. Would love to hear your thoughts if you get this in time.
Cheers, Australia👍
SO awesome to see a big ole G hat in a UA-cam video. I'm from GA. Went to UGA, and man... the last two years have been... KILLER!!! Where are you in GA?
I'm going to seal the new deck for my tracker 17 with resin like you suggested. Will 1 gallon do both sides of a 4 x 7 deck?
Anthony , what kind of paint do you recommend to paint over the resin with ? The top of my deck turned out a little tacky , guess I didn't quiet use enough hardener on the top. The rest of the wood I did turned out perfect. Thanks in advanced.
Great work! Did you sand before glueing carpet? Thanks!
Yes! Definitely need to sand it to give that carpet glue something to "bite" to!
@@AnthonyJonesBrigadeBoats Thanks so much, best of luck on your newest project!
What should i coat the other pieces of wood on my casting deck with?
Cool I'm in Georgia too! I coated my plywood almost 6hrs ago and it's still tacky in spots, could that be because the temp in my garage has been between 66 n 70 degrees?
I have some wood trim I want to add to the boat after I stain it.. can I use this as a clear coat/ water profer even if it’s going to be exposed to sun?
I just bought some Sande plywood. Do I need to hit it with a sander ? To get it ready for a coat of resin thanks !
How have you hatches held up after making this video? I’m interested because we’re starting a build on a Grizzly 1654. Great videos by the way 👍🏽
If I did a 5x5 sheet of plywood will it crack easy or is it slightly flexable
dumb question, Im doing the entire floor like this in my project, would it be worth using a roller for bigger area?
Hello Anthony, my name is Brad. I could use your help. I would be so grateful for some tips.
I'm a beekeeper, and I have a one year old, stained beehive. And the wood is already weathering, so I want to try this Fiberglass resin and have a few questions
1. Does it smell and or is it toxic at all?
2. Can I apply this to wood standing vertical?
3. And can I apply it to a wooden beehive with bees inside the hive?
I do hear a lot of other beekeepers using this but not sure about applying it with live bees. I want to make sure it does not smell bad or toxic. Thank you so much.
Hey bud sweet boat.. starting my build.. would you recommend just spending 85 bucks on Marine grade plywood rather than fiberglassing reg cdx plywood ? Thanks bro sweet build!
Depends on your perogative. I was trying to save weight, which I did. My decking would be 1/3 the weight of marine ply. That could save 20 or 30 pds. Then my cedar framing saves some weight as well. Doing it the way I did in opposition to thicker ply w 1/8 aluminum framing or even standard pine 2x4s, i estimate my build is 50-75 pds lighter. That is substantial. Just my way though. Pros and cons to different materials and techniques. I don't care what anyone says, there is more than one way to properly modify a boat and each owner needs to modify based on use , storage, climate, fishing, ect.
Anthony would you recommend painting only over the resin or is the resin transparent enough to paint under it? I suspect the resin would be more chip\damage resistant hence my question. I plan for interior spaces and under deck lids to be paint
esin unless I "should" do resin\paint. Paint will be enamel based such as what you use. Thank you in advance.
The resin is amber, not clear. Also, not sure how well the resin would stick to the paint. I resin the wood to allow wood to soak it into the pores and also because I believe and have shown it to make wood impermeable to water. You can try it but the amber color will change your paint color , not positive it will stick properly, and I feel if its applied after paint it kind of defeats the purpose. Just my opinion.
@@AnthonyJonesBrigadeBoats Some good points so your opinion would be to paint after doing the resin coat , correct? I like this idea because the paint color is not impacted to your point. I had thought about painting before the resin to avoid paint chips with time. The fact that I will be only using paint under the hatch lids that show wood should help minimize wear. I appreciate the comments on this it helps me as I get my boat done. I am in the middle of the aluminum framing now and cutting the deck so resin work is not far off.
Can I just do the resion only on a wood floor
or is it too slipry without carpet?
I wonder if you ran a masking tape perimeter around the underside if you could remove of a lot of that dripping without sanding (?)
Worth a shot
I have seen a few people use that method when pouring for an acrylic top!!
Love the video! Will the oil based enamel paint stick to the resin since the resin is nonporous even with some sanding? Just trying to figure out what to get before buying it all. Love all the videos, keep it up!!!!!
Absolutely. I coated all hatches, decking, and floors in resin. For underside of hatches and decking (anything visible) I sanded in 180/220 and painted in oil based just so it matched my framing in hatches. So long as you sand the resin to Scuff it up and give the paint something to grip to, it will stick. I would veer away from sanding with 60 grit or anything coarse because the scratches will show through the paint. I know from experience because it happened to me and I redid that one.
@@AnthonyJonesBrigadeBoats Awesome man! Thanks for the reply!!!!
Did you need to prime it after scuffing the resin, before the oil based paint? Or did you skip the priming part? Im currently waiting for my frame and latches to dry. I have rustoleom oil base enamel ready to go but no primer. Please lmk what you think. Thank you
@@cthreeadkins6296 no primer.
@@cthreeadkins6296 No primer. Step by step video on painting process uploaded later today or tomorrow that will show you exactly how I did it.
I'm building a front and back casting deck as well as the floors on a 14 foot aluminum boat how many fiberglass resin cans will i need . rough estimate please.
Probably a gallon should do it.
Hey Anthony. I really enjoy and appreciate your videos. You are clearly a top notch craftsman. I am ready to start my build and I have been struggling with choosing the method to use to protect my wood. Can you provide me with a rough estimate of how much of the resin you used for the wood on your boat.
Under a gallon for sure. The stuff goes a long way just coating wood. I think a gallon is 40 bucks. I cant be exact because I used a partial gallon can I had left over from previous project, then had to buy a quart extra. Under a gallon though for me got one nice coat on all decking, floors, hatches as applied in video. Thanks so much for the compliments, hopefully it works out well for your build.
ADub how do you keep your sandpaper from gumming up when you sand between coats? What grit?
I only do one coat of resin typically. I use 180 0r 220. You can knock it down w 60 or 80 if you want but that can put harsh scratches that can be seen through paint on final product and also can burn through the resin too fast. If it's super tacky, probably not enough hardener, just have to keep changing sandpaper or put another thin coat over everything with a ton of hardener, that will cure it all up and be easier to sand out, done that too.
@MikeBrown Silicone Carbide paper. (Wet & Dry) use the same grits as regular sandpaper but wet the paper often to prevent any gumming. You can get away with using cheap sandpaper vs a premium version but not so much with "Wet & Dry".. aim for medium - higher end paper.. it holds up much better and saves time and money in the long run.
HDPE Marine Board Sheeting to replace plywood works great too... I replaced the carpeted bunks on my trailer with HDPE 2x4's and will never rot again....
Where did you get the HDPE marine board?
If I used the fiberglass resin on my plywood and then put down hydro turf with 3m backing on the plywood, how do you think that would work out?
It would probably be ok but you'd want to sand the resin smooth without burning through it first..My personal opinion, I wouldn't spend the 150$ per sheet on turf, possibly 600$ or more to do a boat in hydroturf to lay down over wood. I'm using Sea Dek in my new build and it's going down over aluminum hatches and decking. If I do wood though, I'm using carpet simply because it's cost effective. You can get cheap knock off Eva foam on Amazon and ebay, it's crap. Will delaminate, not stick properly, and dissentigrate in the weather quickly. I know from experience. Hope this helps
will the unsanded and dry ,glass finish be slippery when wet, if I haven't put carpet on it yet?
Yes. It's super slick usually
I'm planning to make a raft like boat and it's going to be made out of wood with Marine expanding foam inside
can I just put fiberglass resin directly on the wood?
I'll be honest, your guess is as good as mine!]
The reason he sanded it was because this type of resin has a wax addative. The wax floats to the top starving the resin of oxygen. That is what makes it rock hard . Without wax addative it would remain tacky. Thinking of going this method for my boat floor.
Great information!
What size plywood would be sufficient for a casting deck with that resin?
I normally recommend 1/2 inch
Any idea why I keep getting resin boogers, for lack of a better description? Using same Bondo resin, chip brush, paint cup liner to mix, and stainless steel strip of metal to stir. I am squirting a good amount of hardener it. Brush it on think and getting little jelly boogers every where, not bubbles
Sounds like too much hardener. It's starting to set up and cure as your applying it. Try less hardener, should cure the issue.
So the wooden hatch it’s self is waterproof but what about the compartment under it!!?
The goal is to ensure the wood doesn't absorb moisture or rot. Everything in the boat is waterproof. There's a difference between something being waterproof and water getting in. If your asking if water can get in the hatches and into the compartments, yes and no. The boat is not equipped w anti flood rails. But the carpet butts and hatches are so tight, the few times it has been in monsoons, believe it or not, water did not get in the compartments.
How many quarts of fiberglass resin do you think it would take to do an entire 15 ft boat front deck and framing
I'd start with a quart, maybe two. Problem is you can buy a gallon for 90$ when a quart is almost 40$ so I just buy by the gallon now considering I always have projects
@@AnthonyJonesBrigadeBoats thanks
How do you seal the holes you put in it when you attach it to the decks?
As far as the hole in side of hatches where hinges go, I show in my hidden hinge video I plug the pre drilled hole w Gorilla construction adhesive then add the screw. As far as drilling through the decking to framing, same process. Drill pilot holes, plug with the adhesive, place sew in tightly, wipe excess, hand paint screw head grey to match carpet.
@@AnthonyJonesBrigadeBoats dope!
Do you think sea deck material would adhere to this well?
I've seen it done. I'm still torn on it. True SeaDek is 175$ a roll. Seems against the whole budget principle of using wood to cover it in 1,000$ in SeaDek. At that point that why I use aluminum sheet. But if you use a cheap Imitation, maybe..But the cheap stuff is just that at does not compare to real SeaDek or Hydroturf for that matter, be better off to last longer and more durable to go with carpet.
I do wood with resin and carpet, or sheet aluminum w SeaDek or Hydroturf. That's pretty much it. I mean, i can do carpet over aluminum but the main draw on using aluminum in a rebuild is to run SeaDek or Hydroturf over it because it's the perfect surface for that material.
Pro tip: Hit up the Dollar Tree for your brushes. Two for $1 chip brushes and they have a 3 pack of cheap paint brushes for a dollar that also work well. I don't think Harbor Freight can even beat them for brushes.
Harbor Freight is 2 inch chip brushes-box of 36- $12.99. 1 inch chip brushes box of 36- $9.99 or $6.99 if your a member.. I wouldn't necessarily call your tip "pro" based off Harbor Freights price.
How long did you let your resin cure for before carpeting? I am impatiently awaiting for it to cure. The label said 2 hours
The more liquid hardener you add the faster the resin sets. If you sand it and its tacky then it hasn't cured. I'd recommend sanding some before carpeting so the glue has something to bind to other than a slick surface that unwanted resin creates. But to answer your question I usually come back a few hrs later or let it sit overnight.
@@AnthonyJonesBrigadeBoats I think I didnt add enough hardener. Although I did really lay it on there. It was 112° today and let it sit for like 5 hours there are a few sticky areas left but overall it is Harding up
@@yakzona2621 that's happened to me before when I mixed big batches of resin. Easier to get mix right with small batches. I just eye ball it, no measurements. What I have done when that has happened is take a small amount of resin with a ridiculous amount of hardener, mix it up an apply over the uncured resin super lightand fast. It should cure very quickly and bind to the uncured resin and help it set. You can then sand almost immediately.
My dude I appreciate the response. Gonna let it set overnight and if it still got that sticky I will try just that!
Was gonna go out and work on my boat today but 30 degree garage kills the drive.
Space heater cuzin
@@AnthonyJonesBrigadeBoats Yeah yeah. I would of had to unhook the propane tank from the fryer fried the hell out of some chicken wings for super bowl. I'm on it next 2 days though got alot of work I need to get done on the boat asap..
I bet a guy coulda hit those edges with some of that bondo to smooth them out and seal them up before the resin. Finish looks good.
You could. I did this hatch for demonstrative purposes but yeah do what you like!
Where are you in GA?
Just outside Athens
@@AnthonyJonesBrigadeBoats Goooooo Dawgs! SIC EM! I'm down in Columbus
Anthony, how did it hold up?
Great! Still going strong! Garage kept boat is the key
@@AnthonyJonesBrigadeBoats Awesome! Thanks for responding....I made a companionway sliding hatch for my sailboat 2 years ago and went the marine primer and paint over plywood route. It didn't hold up well at all so I decided to sand it all off. Now I'm in the process of using your idea and plan on a final sand down and topping it with paint. I don't need the glass as it's strong without....just a foolproof way to keep the ply waterproof.
Is that polyester or epoxy resin?
It is polyester resin. 3M Bondo part number 20122
Are you in GA? What city?
Yes just outside Athens cuzin
Go Dawgs!!! If you ever make your way down to Savannah give me hollar. We have some awesome fisheries. 🤙🎣
Without cloth the fir plywood will check and cracks will appear.
So... afterall, polyester resin works... I could save up from using epoxy - thank you for the video!
You don't have to sand it. Epoxy will stick to raw epoxy fine
Bondo resin is polyethylene base. Epoxy will stick to polyethylene but polyethylene will not bond well to epoxy.
i love how the tool is called a square but its actually a triangle
Not to burst any bubbles, but poly resin isn't waterproof.
Please explain video then. The resin fills the pores of the wood, therefore making it impermeable to water. Left the hatch in water submerged overnight, I'd call that waterproof.
Video I am referring to is the next video after this where I water and weight test the hatch. Check it out.
ua-cam.com/video/LbBUbJDE25A/v-deo.html
I understand that you feel you're waterproofing, but polyester resin cures with microscopic pores in it. Over time it is not waterproof. It's a big reason old glass boats with wood cores rot.
Again, just giving you factual information. It's a very common misunderstanding.
Gel coat also has tiny pours in it. My objective is to make parts that if submerged under water or have water splash on them, or rain, it will keep moisture out. Saying fiberglass resin does not waterproof is a far stretch in my opinion but yes if I stuck these parts under water over and over day after day, at some point the pores will give. For this application it works amazingly compared to the alternative of using oil based paint or heavier and expensive aluminum. I understand what you are saying but understand what we are trying to achieve is a better more affordable simple alternative to sealing parts that may come in contact with water. I am not building a submarine, I would prefer none of my interior of boat gets wet but forbid an accident, or big rain storm, this will do the job. Again, as I showed in the video I linked, these parts can be submerged for long periods of time under water and hold body weight without splintering or cracking. I have extensive background in fiberglass, carbon fiber, and composite part fabrication, I know the variances and pros and cons or different resins. This is affordable and user friendly and foes a much better job than oil based paint.
Hey, that's awesome. I only said poly isnt waterproof, in which it isnt. The title of your video says waterproof in big capital letters.
Gell coat is poly, and that is why it also has tiny pores in it...LoL
I'm not criticizing your method, or what you're doing. I'm only saying it isn't waterproof.
lol XD murican messurements hehe. stop it