I ve tried all the lubes over 35 yrs and have to say switching to waxing has genuinely been a great experience. I bought a cheap pot off eBay and bought into the Silca brand. Really impressed but you do need 2 chains ideally. eBay is your friend here
thanks Dan for putting this out im enjoying the podcast. I have been running wax for 2 years now bought a chain prewaxed and clean top off then rewax simplist for me
Haven’t used a submerged wax chain yet. But totally clean chain and then use drip on wax lube. (Squirt drip on wax lube). Seems to do the job and keeps everything clean.
Yup been waxing chains for around 8yrs now, so much cleaner and less wear on parts. I rotate 2 chains per bike and hardly ever have to replace a cassette or chain rings, yes I have replaced but no where near as some that use oil.
I've been giving the e-bike version of Squirt a go. It's a bit of a no-brainer during the warmer, dryer months, but I am finding it takes much longer to properly cure during the colder winter months. Just something to bear in mind if you store bikes outside. The other issue is the fact that, in my experience, it doesn't quite do the mileage the manufacturers claim. Otherwise, its easily been the best lube I've ever used.
Ive been using the Drip Wax because I can't really be bothered with the chain prep. I get better life out of components with it but I suspect I could get more out of immersive lube.
One deep clean and a bath of immersive wax to start the chains life off with is good. Then you can top-up with drip-on wax for a good length of time after that
I've had mixed feelings about it. I've noticed zero difference in wear and tear on parts. I still get 3000 to 4000 miles out of a chain, same as I did before with oiling. The main thing though is my drivetrain is much cleaner, it's great in that regard. My routine with oil was after every ride, I'd backpedal my chain through a rag, get it clean, reoil, backpedal a few turns, one last quick wipe, and done. Wax, I go about 300-500 miles before I get noise, then rewax. Biggest consideration, if you ride in wet, wax washes off. It isn't secretly still on there, if you are in a downpour, it's off in 30 minutes. A clean, oiled drivetrain vs a wax drivetrain for watts, we aren't that fast, and your power meter isn't that accurate. I'll stay on the wax though just for the clean factor, but it's not a miracle lube.
You seem to use drip wax ? If so 300-500 miles is probably a bit too far. Drip waxing is more prone to 'washing off' than immersive waxing. Dirt in water gets pressed into the wax then drops off taking the wax with it. Immersive is much better as the wax is fully hard , no wicking / penetration issues and the process cleans the old muck out. It's just mildly inconvenient having to remove the chain from the bike and needs a bit of forward planning waiting for the wax to warm up. Obviously you need a lot more supporting equipment and space to store it than with a drip wax bottle. It's all about tradeoffs. The good part is you can wax several chains in a short time and store to change to after a high contamination ride.
@@10ktube What chain do you have and what wax brand . I think the wax must be decent to get that mileage before squeaking. Some chain coatings like KMC's DLC don't stick well to wax. I re-wax every 200 miles even in dry conditions ( chain never gets to the point of squeaking ). What was the oil you used before ?
@ I’m on Shimano chains and MSW with silca endurance chip. If I don’t use a chip I get 200 miles tops on dry road miles with the bare wax. Tried pulling at varying temp ranges too and no difference. It’s just wax I guess and part of it. Tried many oils. Home brew, rock n roll gold, the fancy silica one, rock n roll gold was my go to because it stayed cleaner.
@@10ktube I looked at the 'real world wear rate jump point' in the ZFC Single application longevity ( S.A.L ) data . For MSW new formula its 600km & 550 km ( 375 & 340 miles ) for dry road / dry gravel conditions. Cyclowax sell pre-waxed Shimano Dura-ace 11s and Ultegra 12s chains so if you have one of those then likely there is no chain issue. 2 things that can affect S.A.L are contamination by factory grease ( Silca did the testing ) and low temperatures, typically below freezing. Lots of extreme cross chaining also won't help. If you used Silca's oil based Synergetic , at least in clean dry conditions that would be as good as wax. Synerg-E would likely be even better. You pay with high wear in the wet/dirt and don't get the 'wax noise warning' . Waxing temperature will make very little difference , as long as you keep it
Nice video , been waxing for a year or two , so nice having a clean drivetrain 👌 only reason I started doing it , not sure I'm good enough for the point one of a watt to matter 😂
I use Silca Synergetic (wet lube) on my bikes but will possibly try out wax on my road bike when I need to replace the chain anyway. Living in Wales the roads seem to always be wet, even if it hasn't rained for days, and with roadkill and other unpleasant stuff in the road I usually wash my bike every 3-4 rides when the roads are dryish, and every 1 ride when they are proper wet. Cleaning the drivetrain with a degreaser at the same time takes maybe 2 minutes extra, so no big problem. How does wax deal with a bike wash? I know that you can try keeping away from the chain and drivetrain but inevitably I know that I will end up getting water/bike cleaner on it anyway.
What is your TIME worth? I'd rather be riding than wrenching/faffing around with R & R chains/cleaning/boiling and all the rest of it. Put some oil on it when it looks or sounds dry, clean with some diesel during your regular bike wash, replace when it starts to show enough wear to affect cogs and chainrings. Chains are cheap...why devote so much time and effort to make one last?
I ve tried all the lubes over 35 yrs and have to say switching to waxing has genuinely been a great experience. I bought a cheap pot off eBay and bought into the Silca brand. Really impressed but you do need 2 chains ideally. eBay is your friend here
Glad to hear it!
thanks Dan for putting this out im enjoying the podcast. I have been running wax for 2 years now bought a chain prewaxed and clean top off then rewax simplist for me
Thanks!
I like the compromise of using a drip wax (Cermaic Speed UFO) compared to lube or a full blown crock pot/wax/chain off thingy.
Drip wax is definitely convenient. I find an immersive wax to start the chain off with, then top-up with drip is the best compromise 👍
Haven’t used a submerged wax chain yet. But totally clean chain and then use drip on wax lube. (Squirt drip on wax lube). Seems to do the job and keeps everything clean.
Yup been waxing chains for around 8yrs now, so much cleaner and less wear on parts. I rotate 2 chains per bike and hardly ever have to replace a cassette or chain rings, yes I have replaced but no where near as some that use oil.
great podcast lads 👌
Thanks for watching!
I've been giving the e-bike version of Squirt a go. It's a bit of a no-brainer during the warmer, dryer months, but I am finding it takes much longer to properly cure during the colder winter months. Just something to bear in mind if you store bikes outside. The other issue is the fact that, in my experience, it doesn't quite do the mileage the manufacturers claim. Otherwise, its easily been the best lube I've ever used.
Ive been using the Drip Wax because I can't really be bothered with the chain prep. I get better life out of components with it but I suspect I could get more out of immersive lube.
One deep clean and a bath of immersive wax to start the chains life off with is good. Then you can top-up with drip-on wax for a good length of time after that
I've had mixed feelings about it. I've noticed zero difference in wear and tear on parts. I still get 3000 to 4000 miles out of a chain, same as I did before with oiling. The main thing though is my drivetrain is much cleaner, it's great in that regard. My routine with oil was after every ride, I'd backpedal my chain through a rag, get it clean, reoil, backpedal a few turns, one last quick wipe, and done. Wax, I go about 300-500 miles before I get noise, then rewax. Biggest consideration, if you ride in wet, wax washes off. It isn't secretly still on there, if you are in a downpour, it's off in 30 minutes. A clean, oiled drivetrain vs a wax drivetrain for watts, we aren't that fast, and your power meter isn't that accurate. I'll stay on the wax though just for the clean factor, but it's not a miracle lube.
You seem to use drip wax ? If so 300-500 miles is probably a bit too far. Drip waxing is more prone to 'washing off' than immersive waxing. Dirt in water gets pressed into the wax then drops off taking the wax with it. Immersive is much better as the wax is fully hard , no wicking / penetration issues and the process cleans the old muck out. It's just mildly inconvenient having to remove the chain from the bike and needs a bit of forward planning waiting for the wax to warm up. Obviously you need a lot more supporting equipment and space to store it than with a drip wax bottle. It's all about tradeoffs. The good part is you can wax several chains in a short time and store to change to after a high contamination ride.
@ I am 90 percent immersion. Drip is only in a pinch, it’s borderline not worth it to me.
@@10ktube What chain do you have and what wax brand . I think the wax must be decent to get that mileage before squeaking. Some chain coatings like KMC's DLC don't stick well to wax. I re-wax every 200 miles even in dry conditions ( chain never gets to the point of squeaking ). What was the oil you used before ?
@ I’m on Shimano chains and MSW with silca endurance chip. If I don’t use a chip I get 200 miles tops on dry road miles with the bare wax. Tried pulling at varying temp ranges too and no difference. It’s just wax I guess and part of it.
Tried many oils. Home brew, rock n roll gold, the fancy silica one, rock n roll gold was my go to because it stayed cleaner.
@@10ktube I looked at the 'real world wear rate jump point' in the ZFC Single application longevity ( S.A.L ) data . For MSW new formula its 600km & 550 km ( 375 & 340 miles ) for dry road / dry gravel conditions. Cyclowax sell pre-waxed Shimano Dura-ace 11s and Ultegra 12s chains so if you have one of those then likely there is no chain issue. 2 things that can affect S.A.L are contamination by factory grease ( Silca did the testing ) and low temperatures, typically below freezing. Lots of extreme cross chaining also won't help. If you used Silca's oil based Synergetic , at least in clean dry conditions that would be as good as wax. Synerg-E would likely be even better. You pay with high wear in the wet/dirt and don't get the 'wax noise warning' . Waxing temperature will make very little difference , as long as you keep it
Nice video , been waxing for a year or two , so nice having a clean drivetrain 👌 only reason I started doing it , not sure I'm good enough for the point one of a watt to matter 😂
Great video
I wax my road and gravel bike to keep things clean
Mtb still using a wax oil drip
Also kmc comes prewax now
Great insight.. Wax more environmentally friendly that chemical/oil based lubes?
Very good point! Some oil based lubes are terrible for the environment
I use Silca Synergetic (wet lube) on my bikes but will possibly try out wax on my road bike when I need to replace the chain anyway. Living in Wales the roads seem to always be wet, even if it hasn't rained for days, and with roadkill and other unpleasant stuff in the road I usually wash my bike every 3-4 rides when the roads are dryish, and every 1 ride when they are proper wet. Cleaning the drivetrain with a degreaser at the same time takes maybe 2 minutes extra, so no big problem. How does wax deal with a bike wash? I know that you can try keeping away from the chain and drivetrain but inevitably I know that I will end up getting water/bike cleaner on it anyway.
Relax, who replaces a drive train every couple of months because they wet lube the chain.
What is your TIME worth? I'd rather be riding than wrenching/faffing around with R & R chains/cleaning/boiling and all the rest of it. Put some oil on it when it looks or sounds dry, clean with some diesel during your regular bike wash, replace when it starts to show enough wear to affect cogs and chainrings. Chains are cheap...why devote so much time and effort to make one last?