Thank you for the great video and explanation. I just finished my BX24 rebuild on the FEL piston. The concepts were the same, and i paid special attention to the disassembly and orientation of everything. Since you (and other videos) seem to struggle to remove the end cap, i left my cylinder on the tractor while i disassembled it -- that made it easier to get a pipe wrench on it with a breaker bar and not risk damaging in a vice. Once i had the end cap removed, then i took the pin out of the bucket end so i could remove the piston and rebuild it. I also put the pin back in on the piston side so i could remove the nut because it is on really tight. I did have to loosen the top hydraulic hose to relieve the pressure so the piston would slide out easily (without the suction pressure.) Overall less than an hour, thanks mainly to your video.
Hi Scott, Thanks for taking the time. I'd suggest, standing on the sidewalk here, that the two hub (?) pieces be totally disassembled, cleaned and then rebuilt rather than doing the rings one at a time and exposing the new seals/rings to all the crud that comes off when dismantling. But you've done it and I am the grasshopper. I'm dismantling my 2320 tomorrow and plan leaving the cylinder housing on the tractor. That's the plan. Nice hint on taking that rascal seal in from the long side. There's a three legged tool for those as well but here in the sticks that tool can take a week to get here.
Thanks for the video. I could tell from your 'accent' that you were a Pittsburger, then I saw the Vaccarri sticker on your loader. I live in McMurray and used to go to them all the time for my BX2230. Now I have to find a rebuild kit somewhere else.
Thanks for the video At 2:00 you said the fluid came out of the fitting. is that fitting welded on ?and is the cap on the fitting replacable ? also what is that fitting called? mine is leaking on the loader
outter ring is a scraper seal...then rap tape around threads to protect inner seal on install., ALWAYS put fluid on ram to slide and protect new seals in packing nut. also put fluid on piston to slide new rings in place, less chance to damage.
Ralph Folden 1 second ago Thanks for the video. I have a Kubota LA853 with the same leak as yours. I ordered the seal kit from a Kubota dealer and removed my sleeve this afternoon. No one warned me of the chance of over tightening the vice on the sleeve and I may have had my vice too tight as it did not slip. I also used a pipe wrench which did very little damage. Do you know if there is any way to tell if I damaged the sleeve with the vice?. Is there a fix for this. I will say this -- the kit for mine is about $146.00 and the new cylinder is about $716.00.
Hey, Scott- I have a leaky cylinder on my LA210 FEL (which is attached to my BX-23.) I would like to rebuild it myself, to save $100 labor charge & to learn something new. How did your project go? Have you had any problems with your FEL in the last 18 months? Is this project something a reasonably competent tool user, who has never rebuilt a hydraulic cylinder, can accomplish?
what loader is that? I have a LA211 and they look similar. My BX1800 sat for a few years (i know) and after getting her running again I noticed leaks out of all three cylinders. I fig it's dry rotted seals and need to change em.
I'm doing the same on a B21. the little O ring does fit in there but mine did not have one originally but I did take pictures and you are putting in on reverse of what mine is. The tapered edge went towards the nut. There was also a black flat Oring under that middle tuff yellow one.
Finally did my other front cylinders and all three had taper towards the shaft away from nut. The first one I did was backwards from the factory with small O ring missing.
Thank you for the great video and explanation. I just finished my BX24 rebuild on the FEL piston. The concepts were the same, and i paid special attention to the disassembly and orientation of everything. Since you (and other videos) seem to struggle to remove the end cap, i left my cylinder on the tractor while i disassembled it -- that made it easier to get a pipe wrench on it with a breaker bar and not risk damaging in a vice. Once i had the end cap removed, then i took the pin out of the bucket end so i could remove the piston and rebuild it. I also put the pin back in on the piston side so i could remove the nut because it is on really tight. I did have to loosen the top hydraulic hose to relieve the pressure so the piston would slide out easily (without the suction pressure.) Overall less than an hour, thanks mainly to your video.
Handy tip. Leave the cylinder on the loader to break that nut loose then take it off.
Hi Scott,
Thanks for taking the time. I'd suggest, standing on the sidewalk here, that the two hub (?) pieces be totally disassembled, cleaned and then rebuilt rather than doing the rings one at a time and exposing the new seals/rings to all the crud that comes off when dismantling. But you've done it and I am the grasshopper.
I'm dismantling my 2320 tomorrow and plan leaving the cylinder housing on the tractor. That's the plan. Nice hint on taking that rascal seal in from the long side. There's a three legged tool for those as well but here in the sticks that tool can take a week to get here.
Thank you so much for the detail. Especially on the direction of the gaskets! Had to watch 8 videos before I found yours. Thanks again!
Handy tip: When removing/reinstalling the 3/4" nut, mount the cylinder on the tractor. Makes it easy peasy!
Thanks for the video. I could tell from your 'accent' that you were a Pittsburger, then I saw the Vaccarri sticker on your loader. I live in McMurray and used to go to them all the time for my BX2230. Now I have to find a rebuild kit somewhere else.
Scott, great detail, thank you for the time you invested.
Thanks for the video At 2:00 you said the fluid came out of the fitting. is that fitting welded on ?and is the cap on the fitting replacable ? also what is that fitting called? mine is leaking on the loader
Thank you for this video. I am doing the same thing on a BX2200 this weekend. This will help a lot.
outter ring is a scraper seal...then rap tape around threads to protect inner seal on install., ALWAYS put fluid on ram to slide and protect new seals in packing nut. also put fluid on piston to slide new rings in place, less chance to damage.
That's a nut.
Ralph Folden
1 second ago
Thanks for the video. I have a Kubota LA853 with the same leak as yours. I ordered the seal kit from a Kubota dealer and removed my sleeve this afternoon. No one warned me of the chance of over tightening the vice on the sleeve and I may have had my vice too tight as it did not slip. I also used a pipe wrench which did very little damage. Do you know if there is any way to tell if I damaged the sleeve with the vice?. Is there a fix for this. I will say this -- the kit for mine is about $146.00 and the new cylinder is about $716.00.
Hey, Scott- I have a leaky cylinder on my LA210 FEL (which is attached to my BX-23.) I would like to rebuild it myself, to save $100 labor charge & to learn something new. How did your project go? Have you had any problems with your FEL in the last 18 months? Is this project something a reasonably competent tool user, who has never rebuilt a hydraulic cylinder, can accomplish?
Ware did you find it for 25.00
I bought it at my local Kubota dealer. Artmann Kubota
what loader is that? I have a LA211 and they look similar. My BX1800 sat for a few years (i know) and after getting her running again I noticed leaks out of all three cylinders. I fig it's dry rotted seals and need to change em.
I am pretty sure it is a LA211. I will check and get back to you. It is whatever they put on a BX23 back in 2004 or 2005.
I'm doing the same on a B21. the little O ring does fit in there but mine did not have one originally but I did take pictures and you are putting in on reverse of what mine is. The tapered edge went towards the nut. There was also a black flat Oring under that middle tuff yellow one.
Hmmm, mine is working perfectly now and not leaking anymore.
Finally did my other front cylinders and all three had taper towards the shaft away from nut. The first one I did was backwards from the factory with small O ring missing.
good how to