It may seem like a minor thing but I'm actually very pleased that Befaco have opted for separate L and R outs (instead of the L/R Stereo out in V2 with a mono switch) and the cue functionality is more than welcome! How is the headphone out? I've always had quite a large noise floor on my Output V2. Will definitely pick one up if my current output module dies on me.
yes! So I don't have to spread a hundred resistor legs and the stick my iron tip into a forest of leads.... This way, I just place them and solder, then turn around to clip all the leads at once and touch up the soldering. This can only be done in factory boards, homemade ones don't have plated through holes. It's much more efficient, I learned it from Ray Wilson
I think it's called "Helping Hands"! It's also my logo :) here's a link to a simple one on Amazon: www.amazon.com.mx/HELPING-HAND-Helping-Hand-Magnifier/dp/B000P42O3C/ref=asc_df_B000P42O3C/?tag=gledskshopmx-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=295470364059&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1937240488216585433&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1010043&hvtargid=pla-448870101576&psc=1
Thanks! Looking at the Build guide (I'm not taking mine off the rack ;) ) The socketed chip is a TL 072. And looking at the schematics, that leaves another 2 TL072 and a pair of NE5532 for the headphones : www.befaco.org/docs/Output/Output_V3_schematic.pdf
Synth Diy Guy thanks for the schematic 👍🏻 Hmm.. And there is no noise if you send some very low end thru the module? My Synthrotek "MST Stereo output mixer" has the same IC and got this odd behaviour of some noise when sending low end stuff thru it. Im going to change the IC TL074 with a TLE2074. They are interchangeable because of the same pinout. I hope ill fix it this way. (or maybe the one ive in the circuit is a "mondaymorning" one 😂) Keep the build-vid's up, they are very interesting 😎
Yeah, the TL07X is a fine opamp, used in high quality mixers and audio gear since the 80s. The noise you're hearing is most likely the product of poor circuit design, I don't think swapping the opamp will fix it. I have quite a few mixers in my system that use the TL074 and there's no noise to speak of.
well, after receiving the new TLE2074CN from Aliexpress and changing one for the TL074CN in my MST Stereo Output Mixer the noise is gone "yay" :D i think the old TL074 was just a bad unit... like we germans call it "Montagschip" (build at a monday morning by a worker who wasnt paying the right attention)
@@randomizer When the resistors lay flat and the board has good quality plated through holes. This way I don't have to turn the board around all the time and deal with sticking the iron tip in a forest of leads. I just turn it around once, after soldering all the resistors, clip all the leads and touch up any spots that may have too little or too much solder. Cheers!
I also build this, but have some "bleed" from the right channel into the left channel. Also left LED doesn;t come on when I give a signal. Any tips for what to troubleshoot?
It's so you can listen to something before patching it in to the output. Say you want to tune an oscillator by ear or check a sequence... patch it in there, flick the switch and that's what goes to the headphones, while the outs are still sending the main stereo input pair. If you like what you you hear, patch it in to your mixer.
@@QuincasMoreira thanks for the reply! I was hoping it could work as a minimal mixer where I could patch a stereo signal plus a mono signal into cue (and add it to the mix with the little switch).
Let me copy paste from the assembly guide: The long leg is the positive and the short the negative. On the PCB the square pad indicates the negative side and there is a + symbol to indicate the positive.
@@iamoutofideas1 But square pad is :) The short leg in the LED is the negative. On the PCB the square pad indicates the negative. That should get yo usorted!
If you have the Hexpander it is unnecessary. If you only have the Hexmix Mixer, then it is indeed a good addition, as it gives you balanced outs and a Headphone amp with cue input and switch.
Quicker, cleaner, smarter :) (No trying to solder between a forest of leads, turning the board around multiple times, etc...) But only works on professionally made boards with plated through holes or the solder won't go through to the other side.
Resitors, diodes and ferrite beads only. There are no chips on the board yet, and the resistors don't care if you're a micrometer closer with the iron . It's just a more practical way to do it, I've been doing it for 8 years since I learned it from Ray Wilson.
Loving that bassline at the end!
Thanks :)
It may seem like a minor thing but I'm actually very pleased that Befaco have opted for separate L and R outs (instead of the L/R Stereo out in V2 with a mono switch) and the cue functionality is more than welcome! How is the headphone out? I've always had quite a large noise floor on my Output V2.
Will definitely pick one up if my current output module dies on me.
thanks :) Headphone out is really quiet! They got it just right this time !
mine comes tomorrow,
i hope that i am pleased!😉
me too!
why do you solder stuff from above? any specific reason?
yes! So I don't have to spread a hundred resistor legs and the stick my iron tip into a forest of leads.... This way, I just place them and solder, then turn around to clip all the leads at once and touch up the soldering. This can only be done in factory boards, homemade ones don't have plated through holes. It's much more efficient, I learned it from Ray Wilson
@@QuincasMoreira obrigado!
hey, wonder if you can help me - the thing that you are using to hold each panel whilst soldering, what is this called - where may I find it? Thanks!
I think it's called "Helping Hands"! It's also my logo :)
here's a link to a simple one on Amazon:
www.amazon.com.mx/HELPING-HAND-Helping-Hand-Magnifier/dp/B000P42O3C/ref=asc_df_B000P42O3C/?tag=gledskshopmx-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=295470364059&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1937240488216585433&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1010043&hvtargid=pla-448870101576&psc=1
Which IC's are (3 presoldered) in this kit and which IC needs the socket?
Nice vid btw 👍🏻😎
Thanks! Looking at the Build guide (I'm not taking mine off the rack ;) ) The socketed chip is a TL 072. And looking at the schematics, that leaves another 2 TL072 and a pair of NE5532 for the headphones : www.befaco.org/docs/Output/Output_V3_schematic.pdf
Synth Diy Guy thanks for the schematic 👍🏻
Hmm.. And there is no noise if you send some very low end thru the module?
My Synthrotek "MST Stereo output mixer" has the same IC and got this odd behaviour of some noise when sending low end stuff thru it.
Im going to change the IC TL074 with a TLE2074. They are interchangeable because of the same pinout. I hope ill fix it this way. (or maybe the one ive in the circuit is a "mondaymorning" one 😂)
Keep the build-vid's up, they are very interesting 😎
Yeah, the TL07X is a fine opamp, used in high quality mixers and audio gear since the 80s. The noise you're hearing is most likely the product of poor circuit design, I don't think swapping the opamp will fix it. I have quite a few mixers in my system that use the TL074 and there's no noise to speak of.
well, after receiving the new TLE2074CN from Aliexpress and changing one for the TL074CN in my MST Stereo Output Mixer the noise is gone "yay" :D
i think the old TL074 was just a bad unit... like we germans call it "Montagschip" (build at a monday morning by a worker who wasnt paying the right attention)
Nice! I'll check that Opamp out for sure :)
Wait... you soldered the components from the front? Is that a thing?
it's a thing :)
@@QuincasMoreira under what circumstances do you prefer to solder on the top?
@@randomizer When the resistors lay flat and the board has good quality plated through holes. This way I don't have to turn the board around all the time and deal with sticking the iron tip in a forest of leads. I just turn it around once, after soldering all the resistors, clip all the leads and touch up any spots that may have too little or too much solder.
Cheers!
@@QuincasMoreira thank you for your reply! Makes sense :)
Can I go from the balanced outs to to cinch? I can only find 2x unbalanced to cinch cables
you can just use unbalanced cables
I also build this, but have some "bleed" from the right channel into the left channel. Also left LED doesn;t come on when I give a signal. Any tips for what to troubleshoot?
Thanks for this. I'm in the market, and balanced outs + phones in 4hp= SOLD. Can it handle high impedance headphones ok?
I think so, I've used both my cheapo Sonys and my Studio Senheizers!
How does the Cue input work? I can use it to add an additional mono signal to the output?
It's so you can listen to something before patching it in to the output. Say you want to tune an oscillator by ear or check a sequence... patch it in there, flick the switch and that's what goes to the headphones, while the outs are still sending the main stereo input pair. If you like what you you hear, patch it in to your mixer.
@@QuincasMoreira thanks for the reply! I was hoping it could work as a minimal mixer where I could patch a stereo signal plus a mono signal into cue (and add it to the mix with the little switch).
does anyone know which way the leds are supposed to go in the pcb? my kit's pcb has a printing issue where half of the symbols are missing
Let me copy paste from the assembly guide:
The long leg is the positive and the short the negative. On the PCB the square pad indicates the negative side and there is a + symbol to indicate the positive.
@@Xustafu I got that but the plus symbol isn't on my board
@@iamoutofideas1 But square pad is :) The short leg in the LED is the negative. On the PCB the square pad indicates the negative. That should get yo usorted!
@@Xustafu gotcha, thanks man!
Is this a good addition to the Hexmix or unnecessary?
If you have the Hexpander it is unnecessary. If you only have the Hexmix Mixer, then it is indeed a good addition, as it gives you balanced outs and a Headphone amp with cue input and switch.
Ah yes, the add on! Very cool. I'll need to build those at the same time I think.
Cool
Thanks :)
why solder from above?
Quicker, cleaner, smarter :)
(No trying to solder between a forest of leads, turning the board around multiple times, etc...) But only works on professionally made boards with plated through holes or the solder won't go through to the other side.
@@QuincasMoreira makes sense,
but i am way closer with the heat to the "chip" or whatever,is that more an advanced technique?
@@QuincasMoreira good to know
Resitors, diodes and ferrite beads only. There are no chips on the board yet, and the resistors don't care if you're a micrometer closer with the iron . It's just a more practical way to do it, I've been doing it for 8 years since I learned it from Ray Wilson.
@@QuincasMoreira thanks,you helped me a lot,already know more!
como hago para conseguirlo
haz clic en la liga que puse en la descripción del video!