Very nice save! Going all the way back to the early 80's when design engineers sat around and said, "let's put batteries in there to keep the settings." What a bonehead move guys. Countless pieces of audio equipment went to recycle or the bin because of that brilliant idea. Your customer is probably overjoyed this piece has a new lease on life. Thanks for your time posting this!
Thanks to your video I could save my MF A3 integrated amplifier. I removed the corroded battery and cleaned the board and now it is working in order. Of course it doesn’t memorize the previous setting due to missing battery but who cares? Thanks again!
Thank you. I have an A3 Dual Mono and didn't know about this battery problem. I've just opened it up and yes the battery was starting to deteriorate and there's some minor corrison to the traces near the battery. Luckily not as bad as in your video. I've snipped out the battery and cleaned up the area with vinegar and q-tips. Your video has saved my amp. Thank you again!
I just checked my A3 guys and found a similar leak but luckily the traces damaged are just those leading out from the battery +/- points to their termination and a bit of the LED trace. Two questions: shouldn't the cleaned and now exposed copper traces be covered up, e.g. with solder? Also, doesn't the batter have a function, e.g. remember the input selected or facilitate the use of the remote?
@@thetapeshack2595 Glad the video helped you there! The exposed copper traces certainly can be tinned if they will accept tinning. These mostly would not, due to the advanced corrosion, so removal of the worst of it was enough for me, in this case. Another commenter suggested finely sanding the board and if you can be bothered to do this and can safely navigate all the traces and vias, then sure, have a go. In a commercial sense, we have to always watch the time/budget, so there is a sensible stopping point with every job.
@@LiquidAudio many thanks for the reply and yes many thanks for great video. Actually, I had already found the issue but only by chance and hence researched your video! The chance finding yesterday was because the A3 ground screw had come loose so I popped the lid to tighten it. I realised I had never opened it up and did a visual inspection of all components and pow! There was the battery leaking away! I have now de-soldered the battery and cleaned the damaged area with Vinegar and 99% IPA. Not removed the board yet for a thorough clean (assume the volume knob is held in by a screw or just pulls off). I think I will replace the battery but do as you have done and created connection posts so I can house the replacement battery holder in free space on the case floor. Same Varta 3600 in a PP3(9V) casing was one thought but that still needs soldering to change in future. I assume I could use a rechargeable CR2032 (3.6V) in a simple plastic case with a spring clip? As for the traces, I am in two minds whether to leave as-is resulting in exposed dulled copper over time or to cover with solder or bridge with new copper wire. I'm thinking how long is it going to take for any residual corrosion to reach any other traces / cause serious damage vs other items in the amp wearing out.
Since you seem to repair a good bit of MF gear, I was wondering if your perception was the same as mine, which is that MF doesn't really care about supporting their older equipment. They'd prefer you get rid of it and buy their latest products. At least that was my experience when I sought help with servicing my A3.24 DAC. MF's response was essentially, "You're on your own."
Why in tarnation would they put a battery in there? I have an A300 from year 2000 and it still works great 24 years later, only needing a potentiometer cleaning. Some times I think I should look at getting something new but i can't bring myself to do it, still sounds blood good after all these years. I hope there's no battery in mine but I suspect if there were, it would have fried everything by now.
great job , i know you cleaned the volume pot ! thats a good 1 for sure . the volume control is very crucial in the sound quality ! what gets me i own over a dozen amps/ sets of speakers and all of them have like this well what i call thr majic spot with the volume this is where the amp/speaker combo sound their best and to me its always like the first watt or 3 😆 does anyone know the name for this ? its just where the volume setting has the best Synergy . Thanks for the video !! badazz integrated !
Hi. Mine isnt leaking but i should probably take it out. We didnt see you do this. Did you jist snip ot off? Any other work required i taking the battery out please? Thanks a lot!
You are a very good technician, but this time in my opinion you made a mistake, you should have brush the copper traces with 800 sandpaper and then apply flux and solder over them.That way they will stay for a long time.In your way, in my opinion the chemical reaction that started is prolonged but not stoped,the copper eventually will dissolve. 👌
Good suggestion there, but in this case the board was so badly damaged that I didn't want to spend any more time on it than I did. Sanding would remove more precious copper and I feel what what I've done here is the best balance in this case. Perth has a dry climate, oxidation of the copper from here will be very slow, now that the corrosion source is removed!
Hi Mike, I admire your work, as always... just for the curiosity sake couldn't you protect the pcb traces with some pcb laquer? If left unprotected wouldn't they corrode @ even greater rate now that the laquer has been "eaten" by the battery acid?
Hi Amer, you could, but actually letting everything breathe in this case is my preferred option. The board it self won't corrode, it's a fibreglass substrate.
Hi all! You may have noticed my comments in a couple of the replies below. I can report that my A3 is fully functional after the battery has been removed. It also remembers my last selected input when I power off and back on again. I haven't tested this over a longer power off period but I am scratching my head why the need for the ruddy battery in the first place. Yes the remote still works if that's what you are thinking. I like to try out second hand gear but without the ability to first pop the top and inspect for battery acid or capacitor leak damage, I am going to be put off by any MF gear if they used silly batter designs like in the A3. I wouldn't be surprised they did the same thing for all their other gear! Just a thought to be aware guys and gals! A great post in any case by Liquid Audio. PS, I just checked out a recently arrived Nakamichi CR-5 Sod's law it has a soldered in standard CR2032 that is leaking onto the main board...mercy me, if I could time travel to any place, I'd point out this stupidity to the designers of these systems....not that they would listen.
Thanks for the update there, much appreciated and good to know everything still works. Tons of gear from this era uses memory cells and batteries. These days super caps usually do the job.
Thank you for your video. I just bought one from an auction but the left channel just puts out distortion and the volume led isnt lid. Do you have an idea what the cause of the issue could be?
Remote diagnosis is always problematic but hands-on testing by a competent tech will reveal the answer. The battery corrosion problem will definitely need attention if it hasn't already.
@@LiquidAudioTank for your reply. Seems like the battery has bin Leasing a little Bit white Stufe. How do i remove the battery. And it seems the volume control works but the left channel only gives of a Cloud his while the Channel sound wonderfull
I want to take my A3 to a repair shop but first I just want to look inside and remove the cover. I noticed there were hex screws with a pin in the middle, dammit.
@@LiquidAudio But why does it need to remember, surely, you just select the source you want upon next power up? What about the remote, is that unaffected by the lack of a battery?
@@thetapeshack2595 Agreed, it's a largely unnecessary feature. There may be some other memory functions it supports but I can't think of what they might be. There is no independent source level adjustment for example, only the master volume.
@@thetapeshack2595 This is because users usually listen to the source they were listening to, so they do not have to press the button for the source they were listening to every time after turning it on.
Very nice save! Going all the way back to the early 80's when design engineers sat around and said, "let's put batteries in there to keep the settings." What a bonehead move guys. Countless pieces of audio equipment went to recycle or the bin because of that brilliant idea. Your customer is probably overjoyed this piece has a new lease on life. Thanks for your time posting this!
Well said!
Thanks to your video I could save my MF A3 integrated amplifier. I removed the corroded battery and cleaned the board and now it is working in order. Of course it doesn’t memorize the previous setting due to missing battery but who cares? Thanks again!
Glad it helped!
Thank you. I have an A3 Dual Mono and didn't know about this battery problem. I've just opened it up and yes the battery was starting to deteriorate and there's some minor corrison to the traces near the battery. Luckily not as bad as in your video. I've snipped out the battery and cleaned up the area with vinegar and q-tips. Your video has saved my amp. Thank you again!
Great to hear!
I just checked my A3 guys and found a similar leak but luckily the traces damaged are just those leading out from the battery +/- points to their termination and a bit of the LED trace. Two questions: shouldn't the cleaned and now exposed copper traces be covered up, e.g. with solder? Also, doesn't the batter have a function, e.g. remember the input selected or facilitate the use of the remote?
@@thetapeshack2595 Glad the video helped you there! The exposed copper traces certainly can be tinned if they will accept tinning. These mostly would not, due to the advanced corrosion, so removal of the worst of it was enough for me, in this case. Another commenter suggested finely sanding the board and if you can be bothered to do this and can safely navigate all the traces and vias, then sure, have a go. In a commercial sense, we have to always watch the time/budget, so there is a sensible stopping point with every job.
@@LiquidAudio many thanks for the reply and yes many thanks for great video. Actually, I had already found the issue but only by chance and hence researched your video! The chance finding yesterday was because the A3 ground screw had come loose so I popped the lid to tighten it. I realised I had never opened it up and did a visual inspection of all components and pow! There was the battery leaking away! I have now de-soldered the battery and cleaned the damaged area with Vinegar and 99% IPA. Not removed the board yet for a thorough clean (assume the volume knob is held in by a screw or just pulls off). I think I will replace the battery but do as you have done and created connection posts so I can house the replacement battery holder in free space on the case floor. Same Varta 3600 in a PP3(9V) casing was one thought but that still needs soldering to change in future. I assume I could use a rechargeable CR2032 (3.6V) in a simple plastic case with a spring clip? As for the traces, I am in two minds whether to leave as-is resulting in exposed dulled copper over time or to cover with solder or bridge with new copper wire. I'm thinking how long is it going to take for any residual corrosion to reach any other traces / cause serious damage vs other items in the amp wearing out.
Since you seem to repair a good bit of MF gear, I was wondering if your perception was the same as mine, which is that MF doesn't really care about supporting their older equipment. They'd prefer you get rid of it and buy their latest products. At least that was my experience when I sought help with servicing my A3.24 DAC. MF's response was essentially, "You're on your own."
Absolutely, that is the standard policy. Helping repair you older gear makes them no money.
Why in tarnation would they put a battery in there? I have an A300 from year 2000 and it still works great 24 years later, only needing a potentiometer cleaning. Some times I think I should look at getting something new but i can't bring myself to do it, still sounds blood good after all these years. I hope there's no battery in mine but I suspect if there were, it would have fried everything by now.
Great video Mike. Love when you repair or upgrade Musical Fideltiy gear 👍
More to come!
Love your work Mike! Thanks for the vid mate
Glad you enjoyed it
Looking at a used A3 right now, this is really a thing to watch out for then!
What does the battery feed?
Definitely something to watch out for. I think it is for memory of device state/settings, what a supercap would be used for now.
great job , i know you cleaned the volume pot ! thats a good 1 for sure .
the volume control is very crucial in the sound quality !
what gets me i own over a dozen amps/ sets of speakers and all of them have like this well what i call thr majic spot with the volume this is where the amp/speaker combo sound their best and to me its always like the first watt or 3 😆
does anyone know the name for this ?
its just where the volume setting has the best Synergy .
Thanks for the video !! badazz integrated !
With the volume knob at aproximately 9 O'clock, everything is there!
@@seacampal1425 close to 8-9 o'clock theirs a name for this ' I forgot some of my smaller Amps it may be almost 10 oclock
The 'sweet' spot? @@tee-jaythestereo-bargainph2120
Hi. Mine isnt leaking but i should probably take it out. We didnt see you do this. Did you jist snip ot off? Any other work required i taking the battery out please? Thanks a lot!
You are a very good technician, but this time in my opinion you made a mistake, you should have brush the copper traces with 800 sandpaper and then apply flux and solder over them.That way they will stay for a long time.In your way, in my opinion the chemical reaction that started is prolonged but not stoped,the copper eventually will dissolve. 👌
Good suggestion there, but in this case the board was so badly damaged that I didn't want to spend any more time on it than I did. Sanding would remove more precious copper and I feel what what I've done here is the best balance in this case. Perth has a dry climate, oxidation of the copper from here will be very slow, now that the corrosion source is removed!
Hi Mike, I admire your work, as always... just for the curiosity sake couldn't you protect the pcb traces with some pcb laquer? If left unprotected wouldn't they corrode @ even greater rate now that the laquer has been "eaten" by the battery acid?
Hi Amer, you could, but actually letting everything breathe in this case is my preferred option. The board it self won't corrode, it's a fibreglass substrate.
Hi all! You may have noticed my comments in a couple of the replies below. I can report that my A3 is fully functional after the battery has been removed. It also remembers my last selected input when I power off and back on again. I haven't tested this over a longer power off period but I am scratching my head why the need for the ruddy battery in the first place. Yes the remote still works if that's what you are thinking. I like to try out second hand gear but without the ability to first pop the top and inspect for battery acid or capacitor leak damage, I am going to be put off by any MF gear if they used silly batter designs like in the A3. I wouldn't be surprised they did the same thing for all their other gear! Just a thought to be aware guys and gals! A great post in any case by Liquid Audio. PS, I just checked out a recently arrived Nakamichi CR-5 Sod's law it has a soldered in standard CR2032 that is leaking onto the main board...mercy me, if I could time travel to any place, I'd point out this stupidity to the designers of these systems....not that they would listen.
Thanks for the update there, much appreciated and good to know everything still works. Tons of gear from this era uses memory cells and batteries. These days super caps usually do the job.
Thank you for your video. I just bought one from an auction but the left channel just puts out distortion and the volume led isnt lid. Do you have an idea what the cause of the issue could be?
Remote diagnosis is always problematic but hands-on testing by a competent tech will reveal the answer. The battery corrosion problem will definitely need attention if it hasn't already.
@@LiquidAudioTank for your reply. Seems like the battery has bin Leasing a little Bit white Stufe. How do i remove the battery. And it seems the volume control works but the left channel only gives of a Cloud his while the Channel sound wonderfull
I just recently bought this same amp. Everything works good. I looked inside, battery is not leaking, not corrosion at all. Am I ok?
I'd remove it, or have it done professionally if unsure of how to do that.
I want to take my A3 to a repair shop but first I just want to look inside and remove the cover. I noticed there were hex screws with a pin in the middle, dammit.
I used to sell these. Why on earth did MF put a battery in this? I’ve never come across a battery in an integrated amplifier?
Probably to power some memory chip that "remembers" last volume level.... I agree with your observation 100%...
It allows the amp to 'remember' which source was selected.
@@LiquidAudio But why does it need to remember, surely, you just select the source you want upon next power up? What about the remote, is that unaffected by the lack of a battery?
@@thetapeshack2595 Agreed, it's a largely unnecessary feature. There may be some other memory functions it supports but I can't think of what they might be. There is no independent source level adjustment for example, only the master volume.
@@thetapeshack2595 This is because users usually listen to the source they were listening to, so they do not have to press the button for the source they were listening to every time after turning it on.