I have a MM Magic Witchcraft with 2 canes from Carmella's, which I've owned for about eight months. I stopped water in Nov., and it developed a nub in Dec. It is an exercise in restraint to resist watering it. Maternal instincts are strong, and caring for the young... (anthropomorphizing). Anyway, I've purchased my time-released fertilizer, resupplied my sphagnum moss and am looking forward to the time when I will be forced to buy a huge container of biscottis--years away. I'll dunk and admire the lovely leaves. Thanks for the info.
Thank you for making this video! Honestly, I never subscribed to the "keep the plants dry until they have at least 4" long roots" idea. I watered my catasetinae when they started to shrivel even just a little, then let them dry out. At some point I just kept them constantly wet - and I mean constantly. Nevertheless, not a single root stopped growing and the root systems are absolutely huge now. So where does this idea where new roots which get wet stop growing come from? It is completely contrary to my own experience.
Honestly, I think this comes from nature! The lack of water during the dry season probably gave growers the idea for an intensely dry dormancy. This, coupled with the Catasetinae's proclivity for rot if given water AND chilly temps likely heightened dry dormancy into a "rule." However, if you remove cold temps from a Catasetum's dormancy phase, they can still take water. Cycnoches, on the other hand, will rot if you even think about giving them water during dormancy! Of course, the idea of giving water to plant that's dormant and doesn't technically need water seems....unsound! In any case, watering during dormancy is not as cut and dry as it is often made out to be, but for folks just getting into this group, starting out with these types of rules can prevent a lot of heartache until they get a handle on when to water. That said, watering while the new roots are coming out on species (complex hybrids can be more forgiving) is often the best way to prevent a strong root ball from forming. Like so many things in the world, its complicated!!
Hey Stephen, thanks for the tips. Most of my catesetums are little ole seedlings hanging in my greenhouse all dried out. Roots just starting, growths an inch high, and bulbs getting a little shriveled. Im much cooler than you so Im trying to be patient. I was gonna ask you about seedlings but I think you answered all my queries. Thanks for all the great info. I live on Vancouver Island so humidity isnt an issue and heat probably isn’t either. Thanks again.
Hi Stephen, this is a great video, I am a beginner at growing catasetums, I only have one, this is February here in Ottawa Canada and the catasetum is dry as a bone but I will not water it until she gives me 4-6inches roots, there is a small growth coming out at its base, but no spike. I am curious about your potting media of sphagnum moss resting over a deep layer of bark and water at the bottom of the bark. Somehow the moss stays dry and the catasetum can choose to send roots into the water reservoir while staying totally dry above. Sounds like a super idea. Thanks Stephen for this very instructive video.
I really appreciate the way you explain the thought process, when growing orchids. I have fallen in love with catasetums and their relatives and I am slowly building up my collection. Your instructions about using the PET method have made me convert my first collection from Fred Clarke to that and they currently are in dormancy and slowly awakening. However the orchid addict and videos that I follow from South America have caused me to seek out species that are not generally being offered here in Florida, so your tips on when to buy are on time.Locally I managed to find from Ecuagenera, USA Accent Orchids & Krull Smith species plants with one thing in common, none of the vendors here observe the dormancy period and water throughout the year. Can they be adapted back to being in dormancy or should I continue the watering? I thought the blooms would open on some of them and then go into dormancy, that didn't work out well even with big fat bulbs :}
Adrian Santos Imports are tricky! This is the best time of year to get an import. Let them soak in the longer days and they should start a new growth soon. Even still, I have 50% survival rate with imports. I talked to Fred last year and he has the same survival rate, so I don’t feel so bad about that anymore lol
Another informative video! I learn a lot from your videos. .Can you do a care tip for cycnoches as well? I really like c.Rebecca Northern hybrids and I will get one of those one day but I'm scared of killing it.They are relatively expensive here in Europe. It would be great if I have some information before buying. Thanks.
Hi Mary, All the Catasetinae are grown in a similar manner. The Rebecca Northen hybrids are very easy to grow. The Cycnoches are similar, but more sensitive to winter rot.
Hi I am a beginner. Got two last winter, I figured it would be safe in mail. I started watering maybe too early, March, because the hottest weather here is April, May, then rainy season. They did grow a new bulbs, nice, 14” leaves. One flowered, one did not. I stoped watering near end of November. I brought them in house because it was going down to 52 at night. I am thinking I could have left them outside for their dormancy. The leaves are turning yellow. I will repot PET method in March and wait till April to water. I don’t know. I should have stopped watering the beginning of November.. I didn’t because the spike & flowers didn’t open yet. The flowers opened halfway but not fully and died.
Hello Stephen and congrats for your orchids! I saw you in a video with William Green where you mentioned that some people grow catasetinae in manure. Have you tried? Would you point me to some videos or material?
I have not tried that technique! Those manure conversations were on OrchidBoard many years ago and were brought up by a very good Venezuelan Catasetinae grower.
@@SVKLOrchids Thank you! Do you remember if he was mixing this with something to keep the medium airy? In your opinion... how important is having an airy medium for a catasetum?
@@SVKLOrchids I have the perfect specimen for this (I don't like the flowers... not even the male ones) and it's just coming out of dormancy. I will try this right away :-) Nice channel btw!
Hi and thank you for this video. I have three questions. 1. How do you go about getting water to the bottom of the container without getting the roots near the to wet? Do you tip it to the side and run water over and into the wholes? 2, can you tell me a couple names of your favorite catasetum? And 3, was the "as long as the temperature stays above 55 F also in regard to overwintering indoors? I live in VA and have to bring mine inside in October well into May. My indoors is definitely always above 55 F. And thank you in advance!
1. You could tip the pot to the side like you mentioned. You can also get a bowl with water and dip the bottom of the pot in it. 2. There so many! Denticulatum, gnomus, Fong Cing, Black Knight, to bane a few. 3. Your indoor temps sound fine! Try to keep the humidity high, though.
Interesting orchid and I would like to get one. I only have cattleyas now. Does the old pseudobulb grow leaves on the following year? I have gnats on my orchids. Have tried the Systemic Houseplant Insect Control and doesn’t work at all. I would love your suggestions.
The old pseudo bulbs do not grow new leaves, only the new ones coming out in the spring. The new leaves are usually pretty big and cover the old bulbs! We get fungus gnats seasonally here and I don’t think there’s much you can do to make them go away. Sticky traps work, but so do Pingicula (carnivorous plants) which turn gnat guts into flowers!
Hey!! Thank you for your videos!! So helpful!! I want to ask something...in case I have a catasetum orchidale that doesn’t want to wake up, what could I do? I’m trying not to panic yet, but asking just in case...if it can happen!? I’m new to this guys and don’t want to screw it up with them hahahahaha
Ha! Unfortunately, there is nothing you can do if they don't want to wake up! Just be sure expose the plant to increasing day length and it should wake up on its own. Its still pretty early. I think only half my collection is waking up and I'm pretty surprised I have that many growing! Usually, they aren't up so early.
Stephen Van Kampen-Lewis thank you, thank you, thank you!!!! ☺️ okay, I’m having them inside and moved it from the colder place to the warmer place and I have also grow lights to increase the day length...from all the catasetums that I have, only this guy and cycd super swan don’t want to wake up and that’s why I thought I should ask you...I’ll stay calm and keep fingers crossed!! 😁 Can’t wait for next video!!
Great video! I am new to catasetum orchids. I have grown cats., paphs, phrags, phals, etc... I just purchased my first catasetum type orchid (monnierara millenium magic 'witchcraft') I received the plant and it is a single growth with leaves and NO backbulbs. The roots are maybe 4 or 5 inches long with a total of maybe 5 roots. it was in bone dry sphagnum moss in a small pot but came out of the pot during shipping (the plant it's self is about 9" tall with about 4 1/2 inches of that being it's bulb or cane). I put the plant back in the pot trying not to disturb the roots any more than they already were. Do you think there is any hope for this plant and do I need to keep it damp now or dry? Thanks for any advice - I am kind of at a loss because I was not expecting a plant with no back bulb for a little reserve to help the plant along.
@@aaronowen4425 I would continue to water and fertilize until the bottom half of the leaves have dropped. Then I would stop fertilizing and continue watering half as often until the rest of the leaves drop.
Thank you for the comprehensive information 👍🏼 My Green Pets ‘sent’ me to your channel, for which I am very grateful ... I do have a question ... when you introduce water, do you start with a small amount relative to the roots or do you water to saturation point, like rain would do? Thank you 👍🏼 I grow in southern Spain 🇪🇸
I pour the water on heavily, but let it dry between watering for a while. After a few weeks, the roots will not dry out until dormancy. This period is critical for good air movement around the roots. I like to use the PET method for my media.
Stephen Van Kampen-Lewis thank you very much for your reply ... I’ve seen all your videos and will try the PET next year. As mine started coming out of dormancy before I saw your first video, I had already got them settled in leca / self watering. I didn’t want to mess around with them after I saw your first video ... will definitely give PET a go next year. Mine have done fine so far but there’s always room for improvement and I’d like to see how they do next year ... thank you again 👍🏼 Self watering, once they get to watering stage, right now everything is bone dry
Great video. I am new to catasetum and trying to get more info possible. My first ctsm is probably dying, as I allready wrote to you, but I have other small ones doing well for now, waiting them to start a new growths. What about the light, how important is it for them to start a new growths? I am in Croatia, the temperatures are about 10c at nigt and 20c daytime, I keep them on the east window, temp 20 Celsius.
Hi Stephen! Thanks for this video, it's quiet interesting, could you make a video about mormodes? I've found they are a bit less resistant to stop watering during winter rest than catasetums and clowesias
Hi Miriam, Sorry for the delayed response. I've got a new program that shows me comment that I've missed. Anyway, I'm not really growing any Mormodes right now, but I keep trying to change that! When I get some I'll definitely make a video! Good idea!
Hi Stephen, if I grow my catasetum tomorrow in my house where temperature is above 60 all the time then would it be ok to water a little in the winter? This is my first year growing these orchids and I watered mine a bit since I saw new growth and spikes. 😬
Glad to have found you thanks to Orchie Dee ✌️ Now I’m certain that I started watering my Magic Witchcraft too soon. Did I ruin my chid? It’s 08 Sep and it’s is coming out of dormancy for the first time since I bought it in January at a show. I started watering very lightly when the roots were 2-3” long about 2 weeks ago (as per the advice of a UA-camr). Roots are growing and the bulb is full now. Should I quit watering for a while? Will I have another chance at a good bulb and flower next year? I’m in League City, near Galveston, but I don’t have any chids outside except for a cymbidium.
Paige I think you can keep watering. Texas is still hot and we’ve got plenty of growing season left! I’d put your plant outside until early to mid November. The complex hybrids are much more forgiving of watering a bit early than the species.
Stephen Van Kampen-Lewis Whew!! I feel so much better now. Thank you! PS - I’m really enjoying your channel. 😀 every time my husband walks in the living room he’s like, This guy again?? Lol!
Hi, not sure if my previous question went through so I’m asking again. I grow catasetum in door where temperature is alway above 60F. In that case would it be ok to water a little in the winter? I saw new spikes and growth and got too excited so I watered them a little.
Hello, may i ask, if a new growth leaf got yellowed n rot tips during a few days inside the box shipment...do i cut it all off? or just cut off the tips... and should I water it after few days ? i see the roots are very healthy n greenish...
I found you through My Green Pets and Im loving the content. The issue I ALWAYS run into with my plants is that they dont go dormant. I will stop the water, my room gets quite cold, down to 58-60 during the night, and they still wont go dormant. This year even tho Im getting the best growth so far, they went dormant I think around.....February? So I would basically like to know if theres any tricks to dormancy when this happens. I know this video is a bit old but I thought it was worth trying to ask :)
NesuChambers Cutting the leaves off and and stop watering in December is what I would recommend. Those low temperatures are probably not low enough to trigger dormancy on their own.
Thanks a ton for the super fast answer. I guess I will try that this year if it comes to that. I cant do it too soon because they started the season late as a result of the late dormancy but hopefully it will push them towards a healthier schedule. My Fdk After Dark started new growth around may this year for example
How often are you repotting? Looks like you leave the bulbs in their pots during dormancy and repot again with new growth, but I'm wondering about your opinion on the pros and cons of removing the bulb entirely during its dormancy and repotting when new growth emerges. I know there are many reasons for either method, just curious about yours thoughts on that. Thanks!
Collin Murray Removing the plant during dormancy is fine, but not necessary. I just have too large a collection to do that every year! And honestly, it’s an extra step that’s OK, but not needed. I don’t like extra work lol
@@SVKLOrchids Thanks for your response! Still wondering, how often are you repotting? I have a few dozen orchids but I'm new to catasetum. I have a cactus collection that is in the hundreds, so I'm really good at not watering lol! I'm really intrigued by the growth cycle of catasetum and excited to see the process! Thanks again for your input; your videos have been helpful to me.
Hi here How do you do ? Hope al are well !! If I am using slow release fertilising with Osmokot. Can I feed calMag or cal nitt as nutrition to ctastm ?? Actually I cannot trust on any others for cal and magnesium issues for plant growing. Only osmokot just I am not in trust !! Help me if I am understanding wrong !!!
I would switch to Nutricote, since Osmocote can release all fertilizer at once in hot weather. I apologize if I said Osmocote is what I use! I only use Nutricote. I get them mixed up sometimes! Also, adding calcium and magnesium is always a good idea. These are very important nutrients that I add to my plants as well.
Don't tell me you were on the big island working on an old anthurium farm. Dude this video, for me at least, was far more helpful than the basics info with the rules. Maybe it is because I also started growing in hawaii about that long ago. Kidding. It is because I know the why behind the rules. I think rules are great for beginners, but when you get a plant that won't follow the rules, like making 3/4 of a growth before starting another one, it is good to have an understanding of why the rules are what they are so you can break them as needed. Ah ha..go off the watering of the largest growth. HOHO it's wet AND cold that = rot! That always spells rot for everything. The cold is the key. Wish I saw this video before I watched the basics one and mentioned a billion things you address in this video. But to be clear.. does getting the new roots wet really stop them from growing or is this one of those myths that you hear so often that you think it is true? If it is true, why do they stop growing? Mine didn't do this. I had also read that it is fine to water and long as you don't feed but the cold+wet=rot makes the most sense because if it is cold, the humidity is probably higher and the plant has no leaves to transpire the moisture in the pot, the pot is going to stay wet for a looong time. Also the greenhouse growers who write the rules don't take into account those who grow under lights or in warm houses. Anyway, Bela vista sold me a ctsm tabulare that turned out greenish brown. The photo of the plant for sale on their site was var rhinophorum with the pretty red flowers with a white callus spotted with red bumps. The plant I wanted from them was Braemia vitatta which they killed at redlands. They also didn't even get back to me about payment until the day they were leaving. I am not impressed with that company at all. I have a lot to say about that..later they came to the usa that same year and I emailed them many times to see if they could just re-sell me the two plants that died in transport that they had refunded me for..no response. I hope you had better luck with them. That was the first and last time I will do business with them.
I found a few photos. Yes it's green. The tip of the dorsal sepal looks a bit colored, but it was also starting to fade which was a feature present in the only photo of an alba form of this sp I could find who's dorsals were also fading. I would be happy to send photos to you, but I don't know if that is possible on youtube.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #1 НАЧАЛО ПУТЕШЕСТВИЯ [Новый сезон] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/380Q7gLWGvk/mqdefault.jpg)
It cannot not be denied, not only are you a gifted teacher but an extremely smart interesting guy. You are a tremendous resource.
You’re making me blush 😅😅 Thank you for that kind words!!
I have a MM Magic Witchcraft with 2 canes from Carmella's, which I've owned for about eight months. I stopped water in Nov., and it developed a nub in Dec. It is an exercise in restraint to resist watering it. Maternal instincts are strong, and caring for the young... (anthropomorphizing). Anyway, I've purchased my time-released fertilizer, resupplied my sphagnum moss and am looking forward to the time when I will be forced to buy a huge container of biscottis--years away. I'll dunk and admire the lovely leaves. Thanks for the info.
Ha! I know what you mean!
Thank you for making this video! Honestly, I never subscribed to the "keep the plants dry until they have at least 4" long roots" idea. I watered my catasetinae when they started to shrivel even just a little, then let them dry out. At some point I just kept them constantly wet - and I mean constantly. Nevertheless, not a single root stopped growing and the root systems are absolutely huge now. So where does this idea where new roots which get wet stop growing come from? It is completely contrary to my own experience.
Honestly, I think this comes from nature! The lack of water during the dry season probably gave growers the idea for an intensely dry dormancy. This, coupled with the Catasetinae's proclivity for rot if given water AND chilly temps likely heightened dry dormancy into a "rule." However, if you remove cold temps from a Catasetum's dormancy phase, they can still take water. Cycnoches, on the other hand, will rot if you even think about giving them water during dormancy! Of course, the idea of giving water to plant that's dormant and doesn't technically need water seems....unsound! In any case, watering during dormancy is not as cut and dry as it is often made out to be, but for folks just getting into this group, starting out with these types of rules can prevent a lot of heartache until they get a handle on when to water.
That said, watering while the new roots are coming out on species (complex hybrids can be more forgiving) is often the best way to prevent a strong root ball from forming. Like so many things in the world, its complicated!!
Hey Stephen, thanks for the tips. Most of my catesetums are little ole seedlings hanging in my greenhouse all dried out. Roots just starting, growths an inch high, and bulbs getting a little shriveled. Im much cooler than you so Im trying to be patient. I was gonna ask you about seedlings but I think you answered all my queries. Thanks for all the great info. I live on Vancouver Island so humidity isnt an issue and heat probably isn’t either. Thanks again.
Glad I could help! I always say, when in doubt, don’t water! Always err on the side of dryness, if possible.
Hi Stephen, this is a great video, I am a beginner at growing catasetums, I only have one, this is February here in Ottawa Canada and the catasetum is dry as a bone but I will not water it until she gives me 4-6inches roots, there is a small growth coming out at its base, but no spike. I am curious about your potting media of sphagnum moss resting over a deep layer of bark and water at the bottom of the bark. Somehow the moss stays dry and the catasetum can choose to send roots into the water reservoir while staying totally dry above. Sounds like a super idea. Thanks Stephen for this very instructive video.
Hi Andre, I actually made a new video a few weeks ago where I changed the media up a bit! I think you’ll find it helpful!
I really appreciate the way you explain the thought process, when growing orchids. I have fallen in love with catasetums and their relatives and I am slowly building up my collection. Your instructions about using the PET method have made me convert my first collection from Fred Clarke to that and they currently are in dormancy and slowly awakening. However the orchid addict and videos that I follow from South America have caused me to seek out species that are not generally being offered here in Florida, so your tips on when to buy are on time.Locally I managed to find from Ecuagenera, USA Accent Orchids & Krull Smith species plants with one thing in common, none of the vendors here observe the dormancy period and water throughout the year. Can they be adapted back to being in dormancy or should I continue the watering? I thought the blooms would open on some of them and then go into dormancy, that didn't work out well even with big fat bulbs :}
Adrian Santos Imports are tricky! This is the best time of year to get an import. Let them soak in the longer days and they should start a new growth soon. Even still, I have 50% survival rate with imports. I talked to Fred last year and he has the same survival rate, so I don’t feel so bad about that anymore lol
Another informative video! I learn a lot from your videos. .Can you do a care tip for cycnoches as well? I really like c.Rebecca Northern hybrids and I will get one of those one day but I'm scared of killing it.They are relatively expensive here in Europe. It would be great if I have some information before buying. Thanks.
Hi Mary,
All the Catasetinae are grown in a similar manner. The Rebecca Northen hybrids are very easy to grow. The Cycnoches are similar, but more sensitive to winter rot.
Hi I am a beginner. Got two last winter, I figured it would be safe in mail. I started watering maybe too early, March, because the hottest weather here is April, May, then rainy season. They did grow a new bulbs, nice, 14” leaves. One flowered, one did not. I stoped watering near end of November. I brought them in house because it was going down to 52 at night. I am thinking I could have left them outside for their dormancy. The leaves are turning yellow. I will repot PET method in March and wait till April to water. I don’t know. I should have stopped watering the beginning of November.. I didn’t because the spike & flowers didn’t open yet. The flowers opened halfway but not fully and died.
There's definitely a bit of a learning curve with these guys!
@@SVKLOrchids Thank You. Weather is nice here. The lemon and avocado tree is blooming.
@@momepenni Sounds wonderful! I miss the avocado tree I lived next to when I was in Hawaii.
Thank you for another great video 😃👍🏻
Thanks! And thank you for all the tips and help you've given me!! We should do another tag team video.
Stephen, great video. Can you share the slow release calcium and magnesium brand name please?
I’m not a fan of the slow release calcium anymore since they may have changed their formula. It’s called cal-i-mag.
I saw that. Please share if you find a new source.
@@heidihard5685 Will do!
Hello Stephen and congrats for your orchids! I saw you in a video with William Green where you mentioned that some people grow catasetinae in manure. Have you tried? Would you point me to some videos or material?
I have not tried that technique! Those manure conversations were on OrchidBoard many years ago and were brought up by a very good Venezuelan Catasetinae grower.
@@SVKLOrchids Thank you! Do you remember if he was mixing this with something to keep the medium airy? In your opinion... how important is having an airy medium for a catasetum?
@@gabriele7921 I think it was just straight cow manure! Catasetums don’t need airy medium in the same way other epiphytes do.
@@SVKLOrchids I have the perfect specimen for this (I don't like the flowers... not even the male ones) and it's just coming out of dormancy. I will try this right away :-) Nice channel btw!
@@gabriele7921 Thanks! I’m really curious to see how your plant does in the manure mix!!
Hi and thank you for this video. I have three questions. 1. How do you go about getting water to the bottom of the container without getting the roots near the to wet? Do you tip it to the side and run water over and into the wholes? 2, can you tell me a couple names of your favorite catasetum? And 3, was the "as long as the temperature stays above 55 F also in regard to overwintering indoors? I live in VA and have to bring mine inside in October well into May. My indoors is definitely always above 55 F. And thank you in advance!
1. You could tip the pot to the side like you mentioned. You can also get a bowl with water and dip the bottom of the pot in it.
2. There so many! Denticulatum, gnomus, Fong Cing, Black Knight, to bane a few.
3. Your indoor temps sound fine! Try to keep the humidity high, though.
@SVKLOrchids thank you so much! I really appreciate it
@@woowooone no problem!
Interesting orchid and I would like to get one. I only have cattleyas now. Does the old pseudobulb grow leaves on the following year? I have gnats on my orchids. Have tried the Systemic Houseplant Insect Control and doesn’t work at all. I would love your suggestions.
The old pseudo bulbs do not grow new leaves, only the new ones coming out in the spring. The new leaves are usually pretty big and cover the old bulbs! We get fungus gnats seasonally here and I don’t think there’s much you can do to make them go away. Sticky traps work, but so do Pingicula (carnivorous plants) which turn gnat guts into flowers!
@@SVKLOrchids Thank you so much Stephen!👍You are so smart. I have never heard of this plant before. Will try it.
@@skyaperez7962 Ha! Let me know if you have any questions!
Hey!! Thank you for your videos!! So helpful!! I want to ask something...in case I have a catasetum orchidale that doesn’t want to wake up, what could I do? I’m trying not to panic yet, but asking just in case...if it can happen!? I’m new to this guys and don’t want to screw it up with them hahahahaha
Ha! Unfortunately, there is nothing you can do if they don't want to wake up! Just be sure expose the plant to increasing day length and it should wake up on its own. Its still pretty early. I think only half my collection is waking up and I'm pretty surprised I have that many growing! Usually, they aren't up so early.
Stephen Van Kampen-Lewis thank you, thank you, thank you!!!! ☺️ okay, I’m having them inside and moved it from the colder place to the warmer place and I have also grow lights to increase the day length...from all the catasetums that I have, only this guy and cycd super swan don’t want to wake up and that’s why I thought I should ask you...I’ll stay calm and keep fingers crossed!! 😁 Can’t wait for next video!!
@@soricelgras7961 No problem! That reminds me, I need to post a video I recorded this past weekend. lol
Great video! I am new to catasetum orchids. I have grown cats., paphs, phrags, phals, etc... I just purchased my first catasetum type orchid (monnierara millenium magic 'witchcraft') I received the plant and it is a single growth with leaves and NO backbulbs. The roots are maybe 4 or 5 inches long with a total of maybe 5 roots. it was in bone dry sphagnum moss in a small pot but came out of the pot during shipping (the plant it's self is about 9" tall with about 4 1/2 inches of that being it's bulb or cane). I put the plant back in the pot trying not to disturb the roots any more than they already were. Do you think there is any hope for this plant and do I need to keep it damp now or dry? Thanks for any advice - I am kind of at a loss because I was not expecting a plant with no back bulb for a little reserve to help the plant along.
Are there leaves on the bulb or is bare?
@@SVKLOrchids it has leaves its not bare but it looks like the bottom leaves are beginning to show a slight yellow tint.
@@aaronowen4425 I would continue to water and fertilize until the bottom half of the leaves have dropped. Then I would stop fertilizing and continue watering half as often until the rest of the leaves drop.
@@SVKLOrchids thank you for the advice and taking the time to help me with this!
@@aaronowen4425 no problem! Good luck!
Thank you for the comprehensive information 👍🏼 My Green Pets ‘sent’ me to your channel, for which I am very grateful ... I do have a question ... when you introduce water, do you start with a small amount relative to the roots or do you water to saturation point, like rain would do? Thank you 👍🏼
I grow in southern Spain 🇪🇸
I pour the water on heavily, but let it dry between watering for a while. After a few weeks, the roots will not dry out until dormancy. This period is critical for good air movement around the roots. I like to use the PET method for my media.
Stephen Van Kampen-Lewis thank you very much for your reply ... I’ve seen all your videos and will try the PET next year. As mine started coming out of dormancy before I saw your first video, I had already got them settled in leca / self watering. I didn’t want to mess around with them after I saw your first video ... will definitely give PET a go next year. Mine have done fine so far but there’s always room for improvement and I’d like to see how they do next year ... thank you again 👍🏼
Self watering, once they get to watering stage, right now everything is bone dry
Great video. I am new to catasetum and trying to get more info possible. My first ctsm is probably dying, as I allready wrote to you, but I have other small ones doing well for now, waiting them to start a new growths. What about the light, how important is it for them to start a new growths? I am in Croatia, the temperatures are about 10c at nigt and 20c daytime, I keep them on the east window, temp 20 Celsius.
I’m glad you’ve got some that are doing well! Even advanced growers lose plants, so don’t worry about having some die.
Hi Stephen! Thanks for this video, it's quiet interesting, could you make a video about mormodes? I've found they are a bit less resistant to stop watering during winter rest than catasetums and clowesias
Hi Miriam,
Sorry for the delayed response. I've got a new program that shows me comment that I've missed. Anyway, I'm not really growing any Mormodes right now, but I keep trying to change that! When I get some I'll definitely make a video! Good idea!
Hi Stephen, if I grow my catasetum tomorrow in my house where temperature is above 60 all the time then would it be ok to water a little in the winter? This is my first year growing these orchids and I watered mine a bit since I saw new growth and spikes. 😬
Yes, that will be fine! Just keep it bone dry when the new roots emerge on the new growth. Start watering when the new roots are 4 inches long.
Glad to have found you thanks to Orchie Dee ✌️
Now I’m certain that I started watering my Magic Witchcraft too soon. Did I ruin my chid? It’s 08 Sep and it’s is coming out of dormancy for the first time since I bought it in January at a show. I started watering very lightly when the roots were 2-3” long about 2 weeks ago (as per the advice of a UA-camr). Roots are growing and the bulb is full now. Should I quit watering for a while? Will I have another chance at a good bulb and flower next year? I’m in League City, near Galveston, but I don’t have any chids outside except for a cymbidium.
Paige I think you can keep watering. Texas is still hot and we’ve got plenty of growing season left! I’d put your plant outside until early to mid November. The complex hybrids are much more forgiving of watering a bit early than the species.
Stephen Van Kampen-Lewis
Whew!! I feel so much better now. Thank you!
PS - I’m really enjoying your channel. 😀 every time my husband walks in the living room he’s like, This guy again?? Lol!
@@paige6042 LOLOLOL!! That actually made me laugh out loud!!
Hi, not sure if my previous question went through so I’m asking again. I grow catasetum in door where temperature is alway above 60F. In that case would it be ok to water a little in the winter? I saw new spikes and growth and got too excited so I watered them a little.
Hi Kris - Comments from older videos often don't get sent to me for some reason! Yes, watering in winter with warm temps is ok!
Hello, may i ask, if a new growth leaf got yellowed n rot tips during a few days inside the box shipment...do i cut it all off? or just cut off the tips... and should I water it after few days ? i see the roots are very healthy n greenish...
No need to cut the leaf. How big is the new growth?
Lindosss 🤩 amuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu catasetum 😍.
Thanks!
I found you through My Green Pets and Im loving the content.
The issue I ALWAYS run into with my plants is that they dont go dormant. I will stop the water, my room gets quite cold, down to 58-60 during the night, and they still wont go dormant. This year even tho Im getting the best growth so far, they went dormant I think around.....February? So I would basically like to know if theres any tricks to dormancy when this happens. I know this video is a bit old but I thought it was worth trying to ask :)
NesuChambers Cutting the leaves off and and stop watering in December is what I would recommend. Those low temperatures are probably not low enough to trigger dormancy on their own.
Thanks a ton for the super fast answer. I guess I will try that this year if it comes to that. I cant do it too soon because they started the season late as a result of the late dormancy but hopefully it will push them towards a healthier schedule. My Fdk After Dark started new growth around may this year for example
How often are you repotting? Looks like you leave the bulbs in their pots during dormancy and repot again with new growth, but I'm wondering about your opinion on the pros and cons of removing the bulb entirely during its dormancy and repotting when new growth emerges. I know there are many reasons for either method, just curious about yours thoughts on that. Thanks!
Collin Murray Removing the plant during dormancy is fine, but not necessary. I just have too large a collection to do that every year! And honestly, it’s an extra step that’s OK, but not needed. I don’t like extra work lol
@@SVKLOrchids Thanks for your response! Still wondering, how often are you repotting? I have a few dozen orchids but I'm new to catasetum. I have a cactus collection that is in the hundreds, so I'm really good at not watering lol! I'm really intrigued by the growth cycle of catasetum and excited to see the process! Thanks again for your input; your videos have been helpful to me.
Collin Murray I repot these guys every year or every other year, depending on whether or not they out grow the pot.
@@SVKLOrchids thanks so much for the reply! Happy growing!
Hi Stephen, , do you also use the slow release fertiliser with your seedling/young catassetums?
Yes! I use time release on all my orchids, big and small.
Hi here
How do you do ? Hope al are well !!
If I am using slow release fertilising with Osmokot. Can I feed calMag or cal nitt as nutrition to ctastm ??
Actually I cannot trust on any others for cal and magnesium issues for plant growing. Only osmokot just I am not in trust !! Help me if I am understanding wrong !!!
I would switch to Nutricote, since Osmocote can release all fertilizer at once in hot weather. I apologize if I said Osmocote is what I use! I only use Nutricote. I get them mixed up sometimes! Also, adding calcium and magnesium is always a good idea. These are very important nutrients that I add to my plants as well.
Stephen Van Kampen-Lewis thanks
Don't tell me you were on the big island working on an old anthurium farm. Dude this video, for me at least, was far more helpful than the basics info with the rules. Maybe it is because I also started growing in hawaii about that long ago. Kidding. It is because I know the why behind the rules. I think rules are great for beginners, but when you get a plant that won't follow the rules, like making 3/4 of a growth before starting another one, it is good to have an understanding of why the rules are what they are so you can break them as needed.
Ah ha..go off the watering of the largest growth. HOHO it's wet AND cold that = rot!
That always spells rot for everything. The cold is the key. Wish I saw this video before I watched the basics one and mentioned a billion things you address in this video. But to be clear.. does getting the new roots wet really stop them from growing or is this one of those myths that you hear so often that you think it is true? If it is true, why do they stop growing? Mine didn't do this. I had also read that it is fine to water and long as you don't feed but the cold+wet=rot makes the most sense because if it is cold, the humidity is probably higher and the plant has no leaves to transpire the moisture in the pot, the pot is going to stay wet for a looong time. Also the greenhouse growers who write the rules don't take into account those who grow under lights or in warm houses. Anyway, Bela vista sold me a ctsm tabulare that turned out greenish brown. The photo of the plant for sale on their site was var rhinophorum with the pretty red flowers with a white callus spotted with red bumps. The plant I wanted from them was Braemia vitatta which they killed at redlands. They also didn't even get back to me about payment until the day they were leaving. I am not impressed with that company at all. I have a lot to say about that..later they came to the usa that same year and I emailed them many times to see if they could just re-sell me the two plants that died in transport that they had refunded me for..no response. I hope you had better luck with them. That was the first and last time I will do business with them.
missanna208802 I’d love to buy that rhonphorum from you if you don’t want it.
missanna208802 Yep, I still have mine! I’d love to see pics of yours even tho it’s not what you thought. You say it’s green?
@@SVKLOrchids global.orquivalle.com/?s=catasetum&post_type=product. I would highly suggest you re-read what I said about this before you order one.
I found a few photos. Yes it's green. The tip of the dorsal sepal looks a bit colored, but it was also starting to fade which was a feature present in the only photo of an alba form of this sp I could find who's dorsals were also fading. I would be happy to send photos to you, but I don't know if that is possible on youtube.