Faller 120465 viaduct bridge construction Part 1 of 2

1/2 In this video I start assembly of the Faller 120465 double track viaduct focusing on the curved portals under the bridge, the trouble spot in an otherwise simple rewarding large model kit.
Part 2 is here: • Faller 120465 viaduct ...
Artitec, Piko, Lima, Trix, Marklin, Roco, Nederlandse Spoorwegen, model, Faller, spoorbaan, train, ho, H0, scale, schaal, Pijplines, modelbouw, modellbahn, Las Vegas, treinen, trein, Z21, Brawa, modelbaan, NS, Deutsche reichsbahn, trains, model railroad ,spoorweg, Bundesbahn, Bahn, Rivarossi, Modelspoorbaan, h0 schaal, model treintjes, mddm, dubbeldecker, 1/87, Fleischmann, Trix, DCC, modelrailroad, model railroad, VIRM, IRM Faller Digikeijs 120477 120479 120489

[@Embitteredoldcurmudgeon1468]

Having just finished the 8th arch of an extended HO Faller 120465 viaduct I think I have finally found a simple way to fit the arching stonework without snapping it or otherwise mucking it up. The trick is to use a template of the correct circumference to bend the heated arch sheet around, and fix the curvature by wrapping strips of adhesive tape strips around it to hold it in place until cooled. Then apply liquid poly cement to the support ridges of the arch walls and slot the entire template and taped stonework combination into place- do not remove the tape strips. Hold or tape it securely until the cement sets before removing or trim back the tape. (Go easy on the cement- avoid excess overflows)
The template I found which is exactly the correct size is a 180g cardboard Bisto gravy granules tub.
Couple of things to remember. Softening the plastic in an oven according to Faller's instructions works, but you can only do it once. Re- heating it causes the plastic to shrink. Also pay attention and don't bend it the wrong way with the stonework on the outer curve- if you do, it won't bend back the correct way without snapping. Also, don't tape right up to the edges of the plastic- you need to keep these clear in order to bond with cement to the viaduct walls. The main goal is to get the centre third of the arch firmly fixed- if the ends are still loose they can be re-cemented later, with little risk of snapping. The main risk is snapping through the middle- if this happens the job is likely to be irrecoverable and you will need a fresh sheet.
If it all goes wrong Faller customer services are very helpful at supplying replacement parts, although there may be a delay if they are out of stock.
For painting tips when assembly is completed, take a look at this guy:
ua-cam.com/video/MU45M-MvOOQ/v-deo.html

[@metalgod68]

Well, the same thing happened to me, it broke in two pieces. I then thought, maybe if I heat it up some more, it will bend a little bit better. While I was moutning the first section, I left the other pieces in the oven. When I went to take them out, I figured out, heat does not do the trick. IN fact, the pieces deformed! Oh well, of course it's my own fault. But this tricky little thing drives me nuts. Let's see if Faller can send me only these parts as kind of "spare parts".
Thank you for the tip with the rolling pin. I'll definitely try this.

[@WesterdamCS]

Thank you, don't forget to check and score the grooves near the sprue points when you try again. Good luck.

[@josefbuckland]

AWWWW SNAP! I had the same issue please check out my construction method just UA-cam josef model railway curved viaduct. Same brand same problems lol. I’m actually just weathering it as we speak and getting ready for the pour. But should be done before end of year anyway check it out see my horrific results but looks good now!