FYI: You can improve print qualaty if use PETG as support material only. PETG ditatches from ABS (as example) much much better then ABS from ABS. German video but you will get important information from it anyway: ua-cam.com/video/Matf1Mna2zI/v-deo.htmlsi=vKwWJXlKEhHoS1qn&t=182
And there the measure tool was… right in front of me. I’ve been pulling in Fusion to measure and then going back to Orca. Between your videos and a few others, I have my A1 mini printing near flawlessly. Thank you for the content! PS: Have you played with editing the plate config? I ended up needing to do a .05mm Z adjust to keep my nozzle at the right height and out of my prints. That and tramming my bed while at temp with a magnetic precision edge were the main things I needed.
Thanks for the vid. I am new to 3D printing and I can't get my prints to center on the bed. They appear centered and I right clicked to center but they still build in the front left corner. Any idea how to fix this in the settings.
Under your process settings you should see tabs like Quality, Strength, Speed, etc.. Click the Speed tab and adjust speeds there. Your printer type and its capabilities speed-wise are the keys. What printer do you have? Inner wall and outer wall speeds play some pretty crucial roles. First layer speed is essential for make sure you get good adhesion to the build plate after that Inner and Outer wall speeds.
@fischer3d also so sorry bug ya but another question. How much outer wall, inner wall, sprase fill do I need? I don't know to much as I'm new. Trying to print a full mask for a friend
Hard to tell, but i'd start with the default settings for that printer in Orca for the speeds. On the Strength tab select 3 walls. 10% for the sparse infill. I'd suggest cutting a cross section of the mask and just print a portion of it to see how it looks then tweak from there. Reference this video for how to scale and make a cross section of the mask for fitting and quality check.... ua-cam.com/video/SKTqPdgVvZg/v-deo.html
I'm trying to print an object that is fairly long. I bring the object into Orca Slicer and center it on the print area. But when I send it to the printer and start to print it, the object is not centered on the bed, and the printer gets really cranky when it tries to move the extruder into the side of the printer. This issue is driving me crazy. I’m suspicious that the printer profile that I have for my K1 Max in Orca Slicer is bogus. Do you have any suggestions?
I'm not super knowledgeable on the guts of the K1, but I had a similar issue with my Enders. First, click the edit presets button next to your printer name (top-leftish). Click the Extruder tab. scroll down and check to see if there is a value in the Extruder Offset fields.
Hoping you can help. I am using Orca Slicer with a Elegoo Neptune 4 pro printer. I don't what the Bambu Network plugin. So how can I stop it from trying to load each time I start Orca. Many thanks
I'll give it a shot. I'm not positive, but I think the only way to stop that plugin from loading would be to log out of your bambu account. Have you tried that?
FYI: You can improve print qualaty if use PETG as support material only. PETG ditatches from ABS (as example) much much better then ABS from ABS. German video but you will get important information from it anyway: ua-cam.com/video/Matf1Mna2zI/v-deo.htmlsi=vKwWJXlKEhHoS1qn&t=182
Wow. What a great tip!!! Thank you. I'm definitely going to be trying this out.
Dude showing me that measure than scale feature absolutely OP! Thanks man literally just used it to make something for my dads car
Thisbis exactly what i was looking for. Im printing my very fist Mandalorian helmet. Thanks i love your videos. Strat to the point.
Nice i learn a lot from you 👍
I have a Ender 7 and want to go away from the creality slicer and you helpt me to do so.
i loved the video i wish all 3d print video was like this thanks bro great work am going to try it on my neptune 3 plus
And there the measure tool was… right in front of me. I’ve been pulling in Fusion to measure and then going back to Orca.
Between your videos and a few others, I have my A1 mini printing near flawlessly. Thank you for the content!
PS: Have you played with editing the plate config? I ended up needing to do a .05mm Z adjust to keep my nozzle at the right height and out of my prints. That and tramming my bed while at temp with a magnetic precision edge were the main things I needed.
Glad it's helping. Thanks. I haven't yet had to mess with the plate config. So far so good (fingers crossed).
can you make a tutorial of a helmet but in parts not the hole thing like tis video, ow we can measure somethingin parts?
Thanks for the vid. I am new to 3D printing and I can't get my prints to center on the bed. They appear centered and I right clicked to center but they still build in the front left corner. Any idea how to fix this in the settings.
what type of printer do you have?
@@fischer3d I have an Elegoo Neptune 4 plus. My son was asking for it and I have always been interested so we purchased and it hasn't been easy.
I'm so new to this. How do I control speed? I heard making it print slower is much better
Under your process settings you should see tabs like Quality, Strength, Speed, etc.. Click the Speed tab and adjust speeds there. Your printer type and its capabilities speed-wise are the keys. What printer do you have?
Inner wall and outer wall speeds play some pretty crucial roles. First layer speed is essential for make sure you get good adhesion to the build plate after that Inner and Outer wall speeds.
@@fischer3d I have an Elegoo Neptune 4 plus
@fischer3d also so sorry bug ya but another question. How much outer wall, inner wall, sprase fill do I need? I don't know to much as I'm new. Trying to print a full mask for a friend
Hard to tell, but i'd start with the default settings for that printer in Orca for the speeds. On the Strength tab select 3 walls. 10% for the sparse infill.
I'd suggest cutting a cross section of the mask and just print a portion of it to see how it looks then tweak from there. Reference this video for how to scale and make a cross section of the mask for fitting and quality check....
ua-cam.com/video/SKTqPdgVvZg/v-deo.html
@@fischer3d awesome thank you!!!
I'm trying to print an object that is fairly long. I bring the object into Orca Slicer and center it on the print area. But when I send it to the printer and start to print it, the object is not centered on the bed, and the printer gets really cranky when it tries to move the extruder into the side of the printer. This issue is driving me crazy. I’m suspicious that the printer profile that I have for my K1 Max in Orca Slicer is bogus. Do you have any suggestions?
I'm not super knowledgeable on the guts of the K1, but I had a similar issue with my Enders. First, click the edit presets button next to your printer name (top-leftish). Click the Extruder tab. scroll down and check to see if there is a value in the Extruder Offset fields.
No, unfortunately there is no extruder off set.
Hoping you can help. I am using Orca Slicer with a Elegoo Neptune 4 pro printer. I don't what the Bambu Network plugin. So how can I stop it from trying to load each time I start Orca. Many thanks
I'll give it a shot. I'm not positive, but I think the only way to stop that plugin from loading would be to log out of your bambu account. Have you tried that?