Thank you! While intellectually and experientialy I understand the impacts of friction on a rappel it is really nice to see this broken down with your three experiments!
Thank you for your comment. The surfaces made a difference because the amount of rope to rock contact varied. There is also variance based on the angle. Passing over a 90 degree bend provides more advantage than going over 120 degrees.
Rich, we did at Stoney Point meetup you offered. A slender girl meat anchored a much heavier me as I went up and over a rock and then rappelled the other side. That was a nice freebee. Best, John Caffrey.
That was me just having a bit of fun with it. Not representing my tests with a fishing scale as truly scientific. Just wanted to give people a general idea about how friction can be employed to dramatically reduce the load on a marginal anchor.
The bit about being scientific was tongue-in-cheek. My only goal was to give people a feel for how friction can be used to lighten the load on marginal anchors. The more friction the better, but be careful out there.
Thanks Rich for this video, the information is very well presented as always. Though rappeling off a tiny bush is not something you should do. The methods you learn in books compared to what you could be stuck doing in the field to save your a** needs to be talked about and as you demonstrated here, there are ways to increase your chance of success doing it.
So many issues could be avoided with well-placed and well-located bolts. But when exploring a new area it's good to know other options for anchors. And for those times when some self-righteous idiot has removed the bolts ....
I notice that the rappels aren't backed up with a prussik, but climbers are taught to always back up the rappel. Can you comment on when you think it's appropriate to back up and when not to?
Your filet mignon could have become minced meat since she let go of her brake hand no matter how much friction she was confident in Otherwise great demonstration video
True dat. She is a very competent rappeller, but definitely important to never let to with your brake hand. In her defense, though; if you look at the previous two rappellers you will see thee is a substantial "shelf" just below the start. Her feet were on that shelf when she let go for that instant.
Thank you! While intellectually and experientialy I understand the impacts of friction on a rappel it is really nice to see this broken down with your three experiments!
You are welcome. Thank you for your comment. I'm happy to know you received value from the video.
That was so good illustrating the differences in actual force, over the various surfaces. Thank you.
Thank you for your comment. The surfaces made a difference because the amount of rope to rock contact varied. There is also variance based on the angle. Passing over a 90 degree bend provides more advantage than going over 120 degrees.
Very efficient instruction. Keep this coming.
Thank you for your feedback. I'm glad you found the video helpful.
Rich, we did at Stoney Point meetup you offered. A slender girl meat anchored a much heavier me as I went up and over a rock and then rappelled the other side. That was a nice freebee. Best, John Caffrey.
Hey John. Nice to hear from you via the way-back machine. LOL Great memories. Hope you are doing well.
Hey Rich, this is very helpful. Nice to see those numbers and yes, three different test is #SuperGoodEnough.
That was me just having a bit of fun with it. Not representing my tests with a fishing scale as truly scientific. Just wanted to give people a general idea about how friction can be employed to dramatically reduce the load on a marginal anchor.
You learn something new every day ! Good to know .
It never ends. There is always more to learn no matter how much experience you have. Thank you for taking the time to comment. Much appreciated.
Thank you Rich! Nice to see some actual numbers
The bit about being scientific was tongue-in-cheek. My only goal was to give people a feel for how friction can be used to lighten the load on marginal anchors. The more friction the better, but be careful out there.
Thanks Rich for this video, the information is very well presented as always. Though rappeling off a tiny bush is not something you should do. The methods you learn in books compared to what you could be stuck doing in the field to save your a** needs to be talked about and as you demonstrated here, there are ways to increase your chance of success doing it.
So many issues could be avoided with well-placed and well-located bolts. But when exploring a new area it's good to know other options for anchors. And for those times when some self-righteous idiot has removed the bolts ....
I notice that the rappels aren't backed up with a prussik, but climbers are taught to always back up the rappel. Can you comment on when you think it's appropriate to back up and when not to?
It is a personal choice. Common in canyoneering is for the first person to backup with a prusik and then provide bottom belays for others.
Your filet mignon could have become minced meat since she let go of her brake hand no matter how much friction she was confident in
Otherwise great demonstration video
True dat. She is a very competent rappeller, but definitely important to never let to with your brake hand. In her defense, though; if you look at the previous two rappellers you will see thee is a substantial "shelf" just below the start. Her feet were on that shelf when she let go for that instant.