Hey Todd, Terrific news, I just got the Wera Tool Check Plus Metric off Amazon and guess what, Wera changed that end area that you were trying to soften up to fit the larger sockets. They made the end area thinner, the larger bits now fit with plenty of room to spare. Heck, if you had another clip you could add another socket, thats how much room they made. They must have been made aware of your video and made the change. Kudos to Wera for making the change!! I followed your advice and purchased those 2 extra metric sockets. If I knew how, I would post a picture to show the change Wera made . Thank you Todd.
Two suggestions: 1. Remove all the PoziDrive bits, expect maybe one PZ2 (perfect fit for IKEA furniture) and swap them for Square Bits( these are offered in the Imperial Version and are also able to be purchased on their own) 2. A shorter socket adapter. I bought a Gedore 673K and there’s a significant height difference between the supplied one.
I have asked my local Wera Rep why the tool check plus made by a German tool company doesn't come with a 14mm socket which is a super common size used in many German cars.... he was as puzzled as i was. But in regards to your Tool Check Plus, Great modification to your kit! Might be a good idea to also put a second row of labels to indicate the relative SAE sizes. And for anyone looking to replicate this, on the new version of the Tool Check Plus, the socket rail is a bit longer and can naturally accommodate another socket size, like the 14mm (which is what i did).
so your rep doesn´t know that the german DIN (and the more international ISO that is the same up to M8) has no use for a 14mm? the tool check covers the DIN sizes for M3 up to M8, without the unused M7 but including the added 12mm (JIS and i think some older german standard us this for M8 insted of 13mm) 14mm is just not a standard size, so why add it to a compact kit that needs to fit for most people?
Great idea. As someone that works in maintenance, I feel you really need 1/4", 5/16",and 3/8" addressed in the USA. Appliances, electrical components and HVAC are covered up with these size fasteners. I'm not sure what metric (if any) serve dual purpose. You may have 1/4" built in to your ratchet or bit handle.
M7 is a very, very unusual beast. I've come across the size once, in a socket head cap screw, but living in metric-land it's not something you'd really need to worry about. 7mm is useful for worm drive hose clamps (aka Jubilee clips), it's something I've added to kits. 11mm is useful for bleed nipples but I've never used it for anything else. I've removed it from my small kits. I use 1/2" sockets on 13mm heads when I need it really tight, equally I use 14mm spanners on the propshaft UJs of my Landie because they're a really tight fit on a 9/16ths.
@@todd.parker sorry, I could have been more clear. I think your 7mm will be useful, I'd leave that in there and not bother swapping to the 6mm. It was the 11mm for doing M7 bolts I was querying, M7 bolts are something you never see in Metriclandia, therefore I rarely have a use for an 11mm socket beyond bleed nipples. Your current selection makes sense and I think I'd leave it alone.
I don't think I've ever seen an M7 fastener, but M6 and M8 are really common - those are your 10mm and 13mm sockets. 7mm is also the standard head size for M4 bolts, so you need it if those are something you're likely to encounter.
7mm nuts are common on computer and electronics screws. I specifically bought a 7mm wera socket to fit onto my Wera Mini Tool Check Plus (from the 2024 Advent Calendar) just because I come across 7mm nuts so often.
50 years ago I knew a couple of mechanics who occasionally worked on foreign cars. They told me that frequently they could get by using SAE tools on metric cars as along as the fasteners weren't too tight. I've noticed a similar thing, that there are certain sizes where a metric and an SAE are almost identical. 5/16" socket can be useful for small items such as washing machine, but 8mm will work for that. 1/4" is useful sometimes but your bit driver is already 1/4" with no bit installed. I seem to recall that I've used 3/8" sockets occasionally, I don't know if 10mm is close enough to substitute for that. Your comparison is good for common fasteners but you will occasionally find exceptions, at least in larger sizes. I've seen situations where 3/4" and 13/16" nuts were used for the same size bolt. Recently I was working on my wife's car and the suspension component I removed used a 17mm wrench but the one I put back on came with a nut requiring an 18mm wrench. My wrench set didn't come with 18mm so I had to use 3/4" wrench.
This is actually pretty cool something I would’ve been too lazy to ever write down and figure out all while in the field the same concept for wrenches might not be a bad idea I’d definitely return for that this is super useful though I appreciate it
Ha, ok I see what I messed up now. Funny I missed that, I printed these a few times to get things to line up. Probably going to swap the 7mm for a 6mm so I'll fix this too
GREAT IDEA!! Though I LOVE my Icon 35 pc Locking Flex Head Ratchet and Bit Set - seems like a better ratchet setup than the Wera. And I see Klein finally came out with their 6-in-1 Impact Socket Set on a shaft in metric. All it's missing is an 11mm so I'll get that socket to complete my set. The Icon kit has a lot better bit selection and there aren't a bunch of duplicates, so for less than the base price of the Wera I'll have a fuller kit, though not a nice single thing as you've got. Alternatively, the Wera Belt4 socket is another option - I run into the 5 and 5.5mm bolts more often than you. Great video - it's the Rosetta Stone of how to deal with the two measuring systems!!
Agree on all that. The Icon bit selection is great, I just don't love the case for some reason but maybe I'll use it to refine my bits. I just picked up the Klein metric flip sockets last week and they are great. Working on a video on that as we speak.
Hey Todd, I love your videos, and appreciate the quality over quantity. The selection of sizes you landed on does not fit what I run into (for example I need 1/4” and 5/16” all the time), so I ended up with a Felo R-GO 27 kit, with a few added imperial sizes. A little chunkier than the Bit Check Plus, but more versatile. And made in Germany, not Taiwan. But love the breakdown on which metric that can cover imperial. Looking forward to future videos!
Dont know if those are available in USA, but in Europe you can find Honiton and their Honidriver series of sockets/spanners. It is unique design which has some "funny" teeth but it seems to cover: 6/12 sided metric 6/12 sided imperial E-torx sizes Spline Square Triangle (?) Can improve/help undo used/damaged bolts All in one socket, for example: 1/4 socket of 10mm size covers: 10mm, 3/8" and E12
Liked your ideas and made the changes to my Tool Ck plus. I think the configuration has changed again because my set has plenty of socket room possibly enough for me keeping the 6mm if I had another clip for the rail. Great video...really liked it
I love this. Its an honourable thing when you invest a bit of your time to sace us a lot of time. Thank you. And just thinking about it as a side note, how inefficient are we to still be using a complicated and unnecessary system. Surely, picking one universal system would reduce so much waste and create a more efficient manufacturing process. They did it with the iPhone wire, and I think the tool industry needs a look at it.
Yeah, it's wild we have 2 systems. It's a mess. I've decided to just go metric for anything portable but keep an imperial set just in case. What a waste of money though
@@todd.parkerthe world has gone metric….the USA is the hold out and that messes up North America. It’s not just tools, it’s everything where Americans use imperial as the main system (temperature, weights, distance, etc.)
The Wurth Double ring ratchet wrench set 32 pieces is my go-to set. I added a few items. A 1/4 150mm extension, a 1/4 to hex adapter, a hex to 1/4 adapter and it all fits in its metal case
One easy thing you can do is replace the rapidaptor with either a Malco or Klien 1/4-5/16 flip socket. The Malco fits a little better, but the Klien can hold screwdriver bits, so to each their own, but those will cover most hose clamps and bolts on appliances in the USA. Also I think there is more rail room on the newer toolchecks.
I replaced the 7mm with a 6mm , very happy with this set other wise, plan to substitute some of the bits with more hex bits, rarely use any star or flat screws, all in all I love the set as it comes in metric
@@todd.parker Although if you did not loose your bit extension (both of your videos that I saw) you could use the 1/4 bit driver for light 6mm use, maybe.
Thanks for another great video!! Good thing I got the imperial version then I just got the metric 9 piece belt to clip on the side of my bag. It only goes up to 13 though so I could probably just drop the 5.5 and add the 14 in i guess. Space shouldnt be an issue on that.
I was wondering when someone would do this as ive looked at the Wera check plus for years but since I made a slightly more versatile custom edc kit like you did with that red box of yours (which was super nice imo by the way) I had no need to spend the money. Seems like a good Idea especially since you already have most of the Wera sockets but I am surprised you've not gone with a set of sockets that work for both metric and standard. I know cheap ones can be puchased at the local auto parts stores. Ive got a set of Power Torque brand sockets that fit both metric and standard that I carry in my everyday tool kit on a simple rail. My favorite set is a Metrinch set that I bought way back in 1994 and theyre awesome. But theyre a bigger set that I want to keep together and reserve for more serious wrenching projects. Always enjoy your content!
Thanks! If you have a link to a set, I'd like to check it out. I saw some bigger 3/8 and 1/2" sets from Power Torque but if there is a 1/4 set that covers both metric and imperial with one socket, I'd check that out
@todd.parker Ya I think your correct in that Powerbuilt or Powertorque, I can't remember which brand it is, only makes their universal sockets in 3/8 drive size or bigger. I'd suggest looking for Metrinch online as imo they are the best universal socket I've ever used due to their superior lobe design instead of the spline design that's common for universal sockets now. Sadly I think you now have to find them secondhand as I don't think they make them anymore. But they did make them in 1/4 drive. Of course, it looks like you kind of already solved your needs with your hack. But I'm telling you my Metrinch set that I bought back in 1994 has been so compact and useful over the years that I would buy another one In a heartbeat if I could find one.
1/4 inch drive is sub optimal. What you want is the 3/8 Metrinch socket set that covers both Metric and Imperial. Got one on ebay. Pair these with a flex head socket wrench and you are golden.
I agree that 3/8 is way stronger and I have a set for larger bolts or when more torque is needed but in a small EDC style kit, staying in the 1/4" range is much more reasonable from a size/weight perspective. Got a link for that set?
this is a great video; however, I do disagree you on using metric sockets on SAE bolts. it would depend on the situation whether it is same to use a metric socket on a SAE Fastener. in a low torque situation where the bolt is just had tight, then yes, it is probably safe. in a high torque situation, then it is possible that you will damage the fastener by rounding off the corners. example, the 1/2 inch bolt, should measure .500 across the flats, but a 1/2 in wrench has a gap of around .015 inch more. so, the gap on the wrench is .515 in size. this is to facilitate being able to take the wrench on and off the fastener easier. the added gap to the wrench/socket varies with the quality of tools you are using. low end tools like the Harbor Freight Pittsburg, and big box store brands like Allied and All Trade are all over the place with their gap sizes and should be avoided. mid-grade lines, like Harbor Freight Quin, Husky, Craftsman, Kobalt are all decent of most work and are close to B grade industry standards for their gaps. high end sockets and wrenches are almost on the tighter end of the clearance specs. brands like Tekton, Snap-On, MAC, Matco, SK, and Cornwell and Harbor Freight Icon to some extent, are vastly superior to both low end and mid-tier tools. and the cost are much higher. the reason i bring this up is, say you have a 5/16 coarse thread bolt with a 9/16 head that needs to be removed, and it has been torqued to the proper specifications usually around 25Lfb of torque. if you use a cheap 13 mm socket or wrench with a loose fitting on it you will damage the fastener and round off the corners, but if it is a high-end tool, it may work without issue, simply because the gap on the tool is closer in tolerance. so, it really depends on the tool and the situation and the quality of the tools you are using whether it is safe to use a metric tool and a SAE bolt when it is torqued to the proper specification.
Great info, thanks. I figure that if you stick to 1/4” sockets with a small rachet, those are pretty low torque so you can probably get away with a slightly less than perfect fit but that all makes sense
Great thoughts you have. I did something similar but used the bolts around my home (built in 1948) and my bicycles (all after 2000). I needed the 4mm and 5mm on my bikes, and 9mm and 13MM on some bolts in my basement.. Thought about getting individual Makita or Wera sockets but ended getting a rack from Harbor Freight, I got 10 sockets for $10.
while the concept sounds smart, in the real world there are super tight alloy bolts with weak metal that risk stripping the corners especially if the socket is not exact. i would stick with the exact size for that reason.
9/16“ is 14.29mm. So to be sure that any 3/8“ bolt works, i would swap our the 14 for a 9/16“. That’s about the same difference as between the 13mm and the 1/2“(12.7mm).
That's good to hear. It's very odd that the rail is broken into 2 sections on mine. I've tweaked my bits too but thinking I might want to go further. Personally, I like security Torx because they work for both standard and security torx versions so why not. I hardly ever run into them but it's a 2 for 1
in most metric countries M7 is very uncommon so you could skip the 11mm, the 14mm also is uncommon but is used in the Japanese Industrial Standard for (JIS) for M10, so it might be good when working on Japanese sourced cars, thanks for another really informative video.
In most case it's DIN standard or ISO. DIN shouldn't be used anymore, but no one cares! Both are identical execpt for 4 size (M10, M12, M14 and M22) M7 isn't DIN or ISO. 7mm, 11mm, 12mm and 14mm aren't DIN or ISO and are really uncommon. Well I did use 12mm quite a lot because of one screw manufacturer for metal roofing... I still encounter some 15mm in old stuff The most common size are 8mm, 10mm and 13mm. Bigger than that mostly 17mm, 19mm and 22mm (only DIN. 16mm, 18mm and 21mm are ISO) And for smal stuff, 5mm, 5.5mm, 6mm and 7mm. But most small screws are phillips pozidriv allen or torx. So, long story short: 8mm,10mm, 13mm are enough for an EDC. PS: I'm in France.
for a example: i do use the smallest sizes for my solar, battery sound system builds. so i do look for there inclusion. :) but fair enough. interesting to learn of what metric sizes could be used for imperial.
Yeah all depends on what you work on. Seems the consensus 7mm isn't super common so I'm thinking of swapping that with the 6mm but curious what smaller sizes you run into on solar since I do sola stuff too
@@todd.parker yea it does depend on what your doing. motors feels more popular market. my stuff is not typical. so hard to answer. I do use a fair amount of m3 and m4 bolts and some m5. then m6 and m8 and m10 for bus bars. smaller sizes mainly for panel mount sockets and mounting things in cases.
How did you make the custom socket/bits case shown in the beginning of the video? Looks like a 3D printed case. Can you provide a link to the 3D model?
I just got the metric tool-check plus in the mail and my first thought was everyone who reviews this item on youtube must have small/medium hands because I have large hands and the set looks like a lego set in my hands.
Great video Todd! I get the 5 most essential in terms of fitting common bolts (thanks for figuring that out!), and that 7mm and 12mm are along for the ride. Which one of those is essential? (Title says 6 essential). Note: the Klein and Vaco $20 metric flip socket sets have all your final list of 7 except the 11mm which can be added for $5 or so. The $14 Makita metric set has all your finalists except for the 14mm which can be added for $5 or so.
Good point, I just got rid of the number since that may be confusing. I found 5 key sizes from my hardware store test (8, 10, 12, 13, 14) and included the 12mm since a lot of Japanese vehicles use that but let's keep it simple. I'm actually working on a video now on the Klein metric flip sockets (they're great). I have the Makita set, do wish it had the 14mm especially since the rubber case is so minimal.
@@todd.parker Once again, tremendous job on the video! The knowledge that the 8, 10, 11, 13 and 14mm sockets will fit most common metric and imperial bolts is true wisdom. UA-cam at its finest.
In the UK, where we almost exclusively use metric these days, you will see M5 M6 M8 and M12 a lot. M10 isn't that common and M7 almost non existent, I don't think I have ever seen them for sale in a "normal" shop and tap/die sets always skip it. What is odd though is that M8 bolts often come with a 14mm head rather than the standard 13mm. This seems especially common for M8 bolts on imported (cheap) machinery.
Hi @Todd.parker, Jaahwn here! I'm the dude that designed that red case you featured in a decent bit of your video. Do you mind linking either my thingiverse or makerworld pages in your description since you used my design for about 1/4 of your video? Honestly before someone mentioned this morning that my case was included in this video, I had no idea that the Tool-Check existed! Great comprehensive video, I definitely will be considering getting this kit to compare/supplement/replace the ICON set. Cheers man!
Hey! Glad you reached out. I tried contacting you on Reddit to chat about this. I purposely didn’t make a big deal of the kit in this video because I’m hoping to do a video when the meme kit with sockets launches so I can show your designs as alternatives. In the meantime, I added a link to your 3D files and the Reddit thread in case people are curious. The ToolCheck Plus is really nice but your designs are slick. You probably noticed I modded mine to fit a small driver handle and other stuff but did it with a Dremel because I’m not great with 3D modeling. What’s the best way to get in touch?
A lot of bicycles use a 15mm wrench for the axels, pedals, and stem bolts. Due to open clearance on most bikes, it could be handled with a Knipex pliers wrench or a Wera Joker Medium. wrench.
I find 12mm is super common when working on metric cars. I'm surprised it didn't make the cut, but 13mm nearly matches 1/2", which is common on American cars. Cant fit them all in this kit I guess
@@todd.parker Can confirm, just used a 12mm socket on my 4Runner. Replaced the skid plate and two of those bolts are 12mm. I would say 80% of the car is 10mm, but there are a few 11mm and 12mm bolts too
I have been looking a lot to find what are the most used sockets for the different car manufacturers and could not find this info even in forums. Thanks guys
Yeah, if there is too much play they will slip. I figure with a 1/4" set you're not doing high torque work on bolts so you can probably get away with a bit less of a perfect fit
US Congress passed the Metric Conversion Act in 1975...and almost 50 years later, lost souls still work with 'Imperial'. "Long live the Empire!" and "May God save the Queen."
Hey Todd, Terrific news, I just got the Wera Tool Check Plus Metric off Amazon and guess what, Wera changed that end area that you were trying to soften up to fit the larger sockets. They made the end area thinner, the larger bits now fit with plenty of room to spare. Heck, if you had another clip you could add another socket, thats how much room they made. They must have been made aware of your video and made the change. Kudos to Wera for making the change!! I followed your advice and purchased those 2 extra metric sockets. If I knew how, I would post a picture to show the change Wera made . Thank you Todd.
Great to hear. I dunno why it had 2 separate rails and that wasted space. I hear they got rid of the lock on the bit tray too
Really smart. Wera will need to release the Todd Parker Edition!
Two suggestions:
1. Remove all the PoziDrive bits, expect maybe one PZ2 (perfect fit for IKEA furniture) and swap them for Square Bits( these are offered in the Imperial Version and are also able to be purchased on their own)
2. A shorter socket adapter. I bought a Gedore 673K and there’s a significant height difference between the supplied one.
I have asked my local Wera Rep why the tool check plus made by a German tool company doesn't come with a 14mm socket which is a super common size used in many German cars.... he was as puzzled as i was.
But in regards to your Tool Check Plus, Great modification to your kit! Might be a good idea to also put a second row of labels to indicate the relative SAE sizes.
And for anyone looking to replicate this, on the new version of the Tool Check Plus, the socket rail is a bit longer and can naturally accommodate another socket size, like the 14mm (which is what i did).
so your rep doesn´t know that the german DIN (and the more international ISO that is the same up to M8) has no use for a 14mm?
the tool check covers the DIN sizes for M3 up to M8, without the unused M7 but including the added 12mm (JIS and i think some older german standard us this for M8 insted of 13mm)
14mm is just not a standard size, so why add it to a compact kit that needs to fit for most people?
Great idea. As someone that works in maintenance, I feel you really need 1/4", 5/16",and 3/8" addressed in the USA. Appliances, electrical components
and HVAC are covered up with these size fasteners. I'm not sure what metric (if any) serve dual purpose. You may have 1/4" built in to your ratchet or bit handle.
U can use 8mm for 5/16” & 10mm for ⅜”. For the ¼” I don’t think any thing replace it in Metric.
@@shark24926mm
M7 is a very, very unusual beast. I've come across the size once, in a socket head cap screw, but living in metric-land it's not something you'd really need to worry about.
7mm is useful for worm drive hose clamps (aka Jubilee clips), it's something I've added to kits.
11mm is useful for bleed nipples but I've never used it for anything else. I've removed it from my small kits.
I use 1/2" sockets on 13mm heads when I need it really tight, equally I use 14mm spanners on the propshaft UJs of my Landie because they're a really tight fit on a 9/16ths.
Thanks for the input. Debating if I should swap in the 6mm for the 7 if that's more common.
@@todd.parker sorry, I could have been more clear.
I think your 7mm will be useful, I'd leave that in there and not bother swapping to the 6mm.
It was the 11mm for doing M7 bolts I was querying, M7 bolts are something you never see in Metriclandia, therefore I rarely have a use for an 11mm socket beyond bleed nipples.
Your current selection makes sense and I think I'd leave it alone.
I don't think I've ever seen an M7 fastener, but M6 and M8 are really common - those are your 10mm and 13mm sockets. 7mm is also the standard head size for M4 bolts, so you need it if those are something you're likely to encounter.
@@drengskap Agreed.
I actually came across my second ever M7 fastner over the weekend helping a friend put some shelves up. Bonkers design of fixing.
7mm nuts are common on computer and electronics screws. I specifically bought a 7mm wera socket to fit onto my Wera Mini Tool Check Plus (from the 2024 Advent Calendar) just because I come across 7mm nuts so often.
I dumped the 5.5 mm socket on my tool check and added the 14 mm. Thank you for the video about adding the 11 mm
50 years ago I knew a couple of mechanics who occasionally worked on foreign cars. They told me that frequently they could get by using SAE tools on metric cars as along as the fasteners weren't too tight. I've noticed a similar thing, that there are certain sizes where a metric and an SAE are almost identical.
5/16" socket can be useful for small items such as washing machine, but 8mm will work for that. 1/4" is useful sometimes but your bit driver is already 1/4" with no bit installed. I seem to recall that I've used 3/8" sockets occasionally, I don't know if 10mm is close enough to substitute for that.
Your comparison is good for common fasteners but you will occasionally find exceptions, at least in larger sizes. I've seen situations where 3/4" and 13/16" nuts were used for the same size bolt. Recently I was working on my wife's car and the suspension component I removed used a 17mm wrench but the one I put back on came with a nut requiring an 18mm wrench. My wrench set didn't come with 18mm so I had to use 3/4" wrench.
This is actually pretty cool something I would’ve been too lazy to ever write down and figure out all while in the field the same concept for wrenches might not be a bad idea I’d definitely return for that this is super useful though I appreciate it
This is awesome! I was always thinking of this too! So many people carry so much of these and only certain ones used more. You nailed it!!
Thanks, I appreciate it
The 11m label cannot be unseen 😂
Wonder if it will also fit an 11y bolt head.
Ha, ok I see what I messed up now. Funny I missed that, I printed these a few times to get things to line up. Probably going to swap the 7mm for a 6mm so I'll fix this too
I have never used a 6mm. But I have used a 7mm a lot for interior work.
Totally not intentional so you engage in the comments. Oh crap, now I've done it too.
It is wise to always add a small imperfection to an otherwise perfect work.
GREAT IDEA!! Though I LOVE my Icon 35 pc Locking Flex Head Ratchet and Bit Set - seems like a better ratchet setup than the Wera. And I see Klein finally came out with their 6-in-1 Impact Socket Set on a shaft in metric. All it's missing is an 11mm so I'll get that socket to complete my set.
The Icon kit has a lot better bit selection and there aren't a bunch of duplicates, so for less than the base price of the Wera I'll have a fuller kit, though not a nice single thing as you've got.
Alternatively, the Wera Belt4 socket is another option - I run into the 5 and 5.5mm bolts more often than you.
Great video - it's the Rosetta Stone of how to deal with the two measuring systems!!
Agree on all that. The Icon bit selection is great, I just don't love the case for some reason but maybe I'll use it to refine my bits. I just picked up the Klein metric flip sockets last week and they are great. Working on a video on that as we speak.
Hey Todd, I love your videos, and appreciate the quality over quantity.
The selection of sizes you landed on does not fit what I run into (for example I need 1/4” and 5/16” all the time), so I ended up with a Felo R-GO 27 kit, with a few added imperial sizes. A little chunkier than the Bit Check Plus, but more versatile. And made in Germany, not Taiwan.
But love the breakdown on which metric that can cover imperial.
Looking forward to future videos!
A tool check kit has been on my list for years but I’ve never quite needed it but maybe someday!
It’s really great
You don’t need it - you want it do it - I did - it’s fun just to look at 😅
@@simonpickering2665 I put in on the Christmas wish list this year so maybe the Mrs. will get me the set haha
Thanks for sharing, would love to see an update video based on any changes you make from the comment section. Thanks again, this is great!
This is great! Thanks so much for researching the common sizes!
You’re very welcome. Been so curious about this forever so I figured I’d do some science
Dont know if those are available in USA, but in Europe you can find Honiton and their Honidriver series of sockets/spanners.
It is unique design which has some "funny" teeth but it seems to cover:
6/12 sided metric
6/12 sided imperial
E-torx sizes
Spline
Square
Triangle (?)
Can improve/help undo used/damaged bolts
All in one socket, for example:
1/4 socket of 10mm size covers: 10mm, 3/8" and E12
Liked your ideas and made the changes to my Tool Ck plus. I think the configuration has changed again because my set has plenty of socket room possibly enough for me keeping the 6mm if I had another clip for the rail. Great video...really liked it
Excellent upgrade. I’d love to seen your custom clamshell box updated with the new socket lineup
I love this. Its an honourable thing when you invest a bit of your time to sace us a lot of time. Thank you. And just thinking about it as a side note, how inefficient are we to still be using a complicated and unnecessary system. Surely, picking one universal system would reduce so much waste and create a more efficient manufacturing process. They did it with the iPhone wire, and I think the tool industry needs a look at it.
Yeah, it's wild we have 2 systems. It's a mess. I've decided to just go metric for anything portable but keep an imperial set just in case. What a waste of money though
@@todd.parkerthe world has gone metric….the USA is the hold out and that messes up North America. It’s not just tools, it’s everything where Americans use imperial as the main system (temperature, weights, distance, etc.)
Is there a video on the red box u made with the full set of 1/4?
Would like to know more about the red box as well. Was it 3d printed?
The Wurth Double ring ratchet wrench set 32 pieces is my go-to set. I added a few items. A 1/4 150mm extension, a 1/4 to hex adapter, a hex to 1/4 adapter and it all fits in its metal case
That looks like a nice set, ticks all the boxes especially with your additions
One easy thing you can do is replace the rapidaptor with either a Malco or Klien 1/4-5/16 flip socket. The Malco fits a little better, but the Klien can hold screwdriver bits, so to each their own, but those will cover most hose clamps and bolts on appliances in the USA. Also I think there is more rail room on the newer toolchecks.
I replaced the 7mm with a 6mm , very happy with this set other wise, plan to substitute some of the bits with more hex bits, rarely use any star or flat screws, all in all I love the set as it comes in metric
Yeah, seeing lots of comments about how rare 7mm is. Might swap the 6mm in as it will also give me more wiggle room.
@@todd.parker Although if you did not loose your bit extension (both of your videos that I saw) you could use the 1/4 bit driver for light 6mm use, maybe.
The 1/4 hex drive is 6.35mm, there is no need for the 6mm socket
Thanks so much for this space saving tip. 🙏 I’m thinking of just going with metric and an angle grinder for converting all bolt heads to metric! 😁👍
Glad it was helpful!
Great suggestion, I ordered them immediately. I’ve found you can never have too many 10mm and 13mm. I ordered both of these in deep sockets as well.
Good choice!
Thanks for another great video!! Good thing I got the imperial version then I just got the metric 9 piece belt to clip on the side of my bag. It only goes up to 13 though so I could probably just drop the 5.5 and add the 14 in i guess. Space shouldnt be an issue on that.
I was wondering when someone would do this as ive looked at the Wera check plus for years but since I made a slightly more versatile custom edc kit like you did with that red box of yours (which was super nice imo by the way) I had no need to spend the money. Seems like a good Idea especially since you already have most of the Wera sockets but I am surprised you've not gone with a set of sockets that work for both metric and standard. I know cheap ones can be puchased at the local auto parts stores. Ive got a set of Power Torque brand sockets that fit both metric and standard that I carry in my everyday tool kit on a simple rail. My favorite set is a Metrinch set that I bought way back in 1994 and theyre awesome. But theyre a bigger set that I want to keep together and reserve for more serious wrenching projects. Always enjoy your content!
Thanks! If you have a link to a set, I'd like to check it out. I saw some bigger 3/8 and 1/2" sets from Power Torque but if there is a 1/4 set that covers both metric and imperial with one socket, I'd check that out
@todd.parker Ya I think your correct in that Powerbuilt or Powertorque, I can't remember which brand it is, only makes their universal sockets in 3/8 drive size or bigger. I'd suggest looking for Metrinch online as imo they are the best universal socket I've ever used due to their superior lobe design instead of the spline design that's common for universal sockets now. Sadly I think you now have to find them secondhand as I don't think they make them anymore. But they did make them in 1/4 drive. Of course, it looks like you kind of already solved your needs with your hack. But I'm telling you my Metrinch set that I bought back in 1994 has been so compact and useful over the years that I would buy another one In a heartbeat if I could find one.
1/4 inch drive is sub optimal. What you want is the 3/8 Metrinch socket set that covers both Metric and Imperial. Got one on ebay. Pair these with a flex head socket wrench and you are golden.
I agree that 3/8 is way stronger and I have a set for larger bolts or when more torque is needed but in a small EDC style kit, staying in the 1/4" range is much more reasonable from a size/weight perspective. Got a link for that set?
this is a great video; however, I do disagree you on using metric sockets on SAE bolts. it would depend on the situation whether it is same to use a metric socket on a SAE Fastener. in a low torque situation where the bolt is just had tight, then yes, it is probably safe. in a high torque situation, then it is possible that you will damage the fastener by rounding off the corners. example, the 1/2 inch bolt, should measure .500 across the flats, but a 1/2 in wrench has a gap of around .015 inch more. so, the gap on the wrench is .515 in size. this is to facilitate being able to take the wrench on and off the fastener easier. the added gap to the wrench/socket varies with the quality of tools you are using. low end tools like the Harbor Freight Pittsburg, and big box store brands like Allied and All Trade are all over the place with their gap sizes and should be avoided. mid-grade lines, like Harbor Freight Quin, Husky, Craftsman, Kobalt are all decent of most work and are close to B grade industry standards for their gaps. high end sockets and wrenches are almost on the tighter end of the clearance specs. brands like Tekton, Snap-On, MAC, Matco, SK, and Cornwell and Harbor Freight Icon to some extent, are vastly superior to both low end and mid-tier tools. and the cost are much higher. the reason i bring this up is, say you have a 5/16 coarse thread bolt with a 9/16 head that needs to be removed, and it has been torqued to the proper specifications usually around 25Lfb of torque. if you use a cheap 13 mm socket or wrench with a loose fitting on it you will damage the fastener and round off the corners, but if it is a high-end tool, it may work without issue, simply because the gap on the tool is closer in tolerance. so, it really depends on the tool and the situation and the quality of the tools you are using whether it is safe to use a metric tool and a SAE bolt when it is torqued to the proper specification.
Great info, thanks. I figure that if you stick to 1/4” sockets with a small rachet, those are pretty low torque so you can probably get away with a slightly less than perfect fit but that all makes sense
Great thoughts you have. I did something similar but used the bolts around my home (built in 1948) and my bicycles (all after 2000). I needed the 4mm and 5mm on my bikes, and 9mm and 13MM on some bolts in my basement.. Thought about getting individual Makita or Wera sockets but ended getting a rack from Harbor Freight, I got 10 sockets for $10.
Yeah that’s the best way to do it. What do *you* actually need with your stuff. Hard to beat the HF socket prices. As you see, I have a few Quinn sets
this is a life saver ... good job
while the concept sounds smart, in the real world there are super tight alloy bolts with weak metal that risk stripping the corners especially if the socket is not exact. i would stick with the exact size for that reason.
9/16“ is 14.29mm. So to be sure that any 3/8“ bolt works, i would swap our the 14 for a 9/16“. That’s about the same difference as between the 13mm and the 1/2“(12.7mm).
The newer tool Check got a single rail for all the sockets. Ive ditched the Security torx for some smaller flat heads and 2, 2,5mm and 10mm hex.
That's good to hear. It's very odd that the rail is broken into 2 sections on mine. I've tweaked my bits too but thinking I might want to go further. Personally, I like security Torx because they work for both standard and security torx versions so why not. I hardly ever run into them but it's a 2 for 1
Excellent, thank you.
tl;dr: Top 7 sizes are 6, 8, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14mm.
in most metric countries M7 is very uncommon so you could skip the 11mm, the 14mm also is uncommon but is used in the Japanese Industrial Standard for (JIS) for M10, so it might be good when working on Japanese sourced cars, thanks for another really informative video.
In most case it's DIN standard or ISO.
DIN shouldn't be used anymore, but no one cares!
Both are identical execpt for 4 size (M10, M12, M14 and M22)
M7 isn't DIN or ISO.
7mm, 11mm, 12mm and 14mm aren't DIN or ISO and are really uncommon. Well I did use 12mm quite a lot because of one screw manufacturer for metal roofing...
I still encounter some 15mm in old stuff
The most common size are 8mm, 10mm and 13mm.
Bigger than that mostly 17mm, 19mm and 22mm (only DIN. 16mm, 18mm and 21mm are ISO)
And for smal stuff, 5mm, 5.5mm, 6mm and 7mm. But most small screws are phillips pozidriv allen or torx.
So, long story short: 8mm,10mm, 13mm are enough for an EDC.
PS: I'm in France.
Toyota's use 8,10,12,14
Great idea
I did the same thing but for the hex bits rather that for the sockets. I have a full set of metric, imperial and torx
Is there a link to the red toolkit you made? Is it 3d printed?
www.thingiverse.com/thing:6695481
if you drive a toyota or honda powersport product you need a 8,10,12,14,and JIS bits
You can leave the M7 out, not common at all.
Many hose clamps use M7
Forget the 11mm but keep the 7mm for hose clamps, for UK that is.
Yeah the only time i use a 11mm is for brake line fittings and then you require a spanner, not a socket
There are several M7 bolts in my civic, so it's a keep to me.
@@DavurBeder*7mm that is.
for a example: i do use the smallest sizes for my solar, battery sound system builds. so i do look for there inclusion. :) but fair enough. interesting to learn of what metric sizes could be used for imperial.
Yeah all depends on what you work on. Seems the consensus 7mm isn't super common so I'm thinking of swapping that with the 6mm but curious what smaller sizes you run into on solar since I do sola stuff too
@@todd.parker yea it does depend on what your doing. motors feels more popular market. my stuff is not typical. so hard to answer. I do use a fair amount of m3 and m4 bolts and some m5. then m6 and m8 and m10 for bus bars. smaller sizes mainly for panel mount sockets and mounting things in cases.
A 1/4" fractional socket is very useful if you ever dealing with home appliances, especially older ones.
Nice setup . Refuse to purchase laser etched tools !
Brilliant! This made me subscribe!
Welcome aboard!
JIS Standard (Japanese cars and bikes) uses 12mm while DIN uses 13mm for 8mm bolt
How did you make the custom socket/bits case shown in the beginning of the video? Looks like a 3D printed case. Can you provide a link to the 3D model?
There’s a guy on Reddit who posted a few version of this. www.reddit.com/r/harborfreight/s/l3bycWKvB5
It looks like the "ICAN'T Tool Box" model from Jaahwn found on the maker world website. It's a remix for a popular Harbor freight icon box set.
I have never in my life heard of somebody using a M7 screw. And I’m a mechanical engineer over here in Europe.
I just got the metric tool-check plus in the mail and my first thought was everyone who reviews this item on youtube must have small/medium hands because I have large hands and the set looks like a lego set in my hands.
Ha, yeah but I think that’s the point. It’s so small you can bring it anywhere
Great video Todd! I get the 5 most essential in terms of fitting common bolts (thanks for figuring that out!), and that 7mm and 12mm are along for the ride. Which one of those is essential? (Title says 6 essential).
Note: the Klein and Vaco $20 metric flip socket sets have all your final list of 7 except the 11mm which can be added for $5 or so. The $14 Makita metric set has all your finalists except for the 14mm which can be added for $5 or so.
Good point, I just got rid of the number since that may be confusing. I found 5 key sizes from my hardware store test (8, 10, 12, 13, 14) and included the 12mm since a lot of Japanese vehicles use that but let's keep it simple. I'm actually working on a video now on the Klein metric flip sockets (they're great). I have the Makita set, do wish it had the 14mm especially since the rubber case is so minimal.
@@todd.parker Once again, tremendous job on the video! The knowledge that the 8, 10, 11, 13 and 14mm sockets will fit most common metric and imperial bolts is true wisdom. UA-cam at its finest.
In the description both individual socket affiliate links are labeled as 11mm. The links are correct just the label needs to be adjusted to 8
Oops, thanks, fixed it.
In the UK, where we almost exclusively use metric these days, you will see M5 M6 M8 and M12 a lot. M10 isn't that common and M7 almost non existent, I don't think I have ever seen them for sale in a "normal" shop and tap/die sets always skip it.
What is odd though is that M8 bolts often come with a 14mm head rather than the standard 13mm. This seems especially common for M8 bolts on imported (cheap) machinery.
Awesome content - thank you! 🙏
Glad you enjoyed it!
I clicked on this video because the thumbnail looked like James Hoffman, but I like tools as much as coffee so it's a win
Ha, I like James’ videos, good stuff
Hi @Todd.parker, Jaahwn here! I'm the dude that designed that red case you featured in a decent bit of your video. Do you mind linking either my thingiverse or makerworld pages in your description since you used my design for about 1/4 of your video?
Honestly before someone mentioned this morning that my case was included in this video, I had no idea that the Tool-Check existed! Great comprehensive video, I definitely will be considering getting this kit to compare/supplement/replace the ICON set.
Cheers man!
Hey! Glad you reached out. I tried contacting you on Reddit to chat about this.
I purposely didn’t make a big deal of the kit in this video because I’m hoping to do a video when the meme kit with sockets launches so I can show your designs as alternatives. In the meantime, I added a link to your 3D files and the Reddit thread in case people are curious.
The ToolCheck Plus is really nice but your designs are slick. You probably noticed I modded mine to fit a small driver handle and other stuff but did it with a Dremel because I’m not great with 3D modeling. What’s the best way to get in touch?
this is great content
You link to the 8mm but you recommend the 14 mm in the video?
Whoops. Fixed it, thanks. Wera 14mm socket, 1/4" - amzn.to/4eESjsF
A lot of bicycles use a 15mm wrench for the axels, pedals, and stem bolts. Due to open clearance on most bikes, it could be handled with a Knipex pliers wrench or a Wera Joker Medium. wrench.
If you find a way to use a socket on pedals, let me know. I think you mean crank arm bolts.
@@ngarber nope, I mean pedals and I didn’t suggest using a socket, that obviously would not work.
@@jermlac Just asking because the subject of this video was sockets.
How about ditching the 11mm for a second 10mm? If you lose one (as it happens…) you still have another one 😉
Heh, genius!
If you drive a Ford, youre going to want to hang on to that 5.5mm.
I don't even buy sae sockets and wrenches any more- I never use them.
I find 12mm is super common when working on metric cars. I'm surprised it didn't make the cut, but 13mm nearly matches 1/2", which is common on American cars. Cant fit them all in this kit I guess
the 12 is there
Yep, 12mm is there for that very reason. Heard they are very popular on Japanese vehicles especially
@@todd.parker Can confirm, just used a 12mm socket on my 4Runner. Replaced the skid plate and two of those bolts are 12mm. I would say 80% of the car is 10mm, but there are a few 11mm and 12mm bolts too
German cars almost never use 12mm sockets. Japanese cars almost never use 13mm
I have been looking a lot to find what are the most used sockets for the different car manufacturers and could not find this info even in forums. Thanks guys
No inch outside of the US. Even simpler, cheaper.
Does anyone elses tool check constantly open up ?
Unfortunately newer ones do not come with closing mechanism as shown on video
Ah, that’s too bad
I bet there is a standard and metric system only for the tool company's to make more money.
It will be a happy day when we only run metric!
1000%
Score one for Metric 😅
100%
If you drive Toyota, instead of 11 and 13, there will be 12 and 14mm everywhere
Yeah I hear 12 and 14mm are everywhere on Japanese cars
11m :(
Whoops, did I forget an m?
printed on the new label!
👍
if you need to tighten those the metric will slip.
Yeah, if there is too much play they will slip. I figure with a 1/4" set you're not doing high torque work on bolts so you can probably get away with a bit less of a perfect fit
@@todd.parker great video, appreciate it.
US Congress passed the Metric Conversion Act in 1975...and almost 50 years later, lost souls still work with 'Imperial'.
"Long live the Empire!" and "May God save the Queen."
Need the 15mm.
Do you have a source for that red case? Id love to get one
www.thingiverse.com/thing:6695481