Olympus OM-D M1X Setup Guide For Bird Photography
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- Опубліковано 20 сер 2024
- How to setup the Olympus M1X for bird photography. Also included is a way to get better control of exposure, so you can get better bird images.
Peter Fosgard's video on setting up the highlights and shadow alerts pre shot.
• Exposure Settings - Ho...
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Olympus OM-D M1X Camera
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I spent 3 days look for a way to enable pro capture low then remember something someone said
Continues autofocus only works with Olympus lenses
Raw tip of the year thanks Peter
This is excellent, especially for someone like me who just switched over to Olympus. Thank you!
Hi Tim, I enjoyed watching the video and the settings you recommend are very much the same as the ones I have already set. I too have switched from Canon to Olympus, some folk thought I had gone stark raving mad but when they have seen the results and seen how comparatively easy it is to walk around with Olympus gear they are beginning to reconsider, two of my less sceptical friends have also switched from Canon to Olympus. Now coming back to the video I am not too sure about CAF sensitivity, I haven't done much BIF photography yet with this gear but I see differing views on going + and - , so far I have left mine of neutral and it has been ok. The first part of your video I guess reflects most of your BIF settings, I an a little surprised you have not saved them to one of the "C" settings. I have set BIF to C1 and Stacking to C5 and Hi Res to C4.
Just as an aside (I have not discovered if you enjoy macro photography) the 300mm & 1.4TC make for a very portable and hand holdable rig for dragonflies and butterflies, the 40-150mm &1.4TC equally. The dinky little 60mm macro lens is just incredible. I recently pointed the 300& 1.4 at a small butterfly when on a photographic weekend, the people using full frame gear just could not believe it - hand holding 840mm at 1/60 sec - it's impossible...no it isn't!!
Thanks for you comments Jonathan. I mostly photograph birds, and my experience has been that even if it's a portrait of the bird, continuous focus works. But, I might use the C1, C2 custom setup, I think I used it with a different brand once. I'm looking forward to doing some close up work with the Olympus gear, later in the month I should be at some locations where I can get really close to the birds, so I'm looking forward to trying the close focus/macro capabilities of the 300mm f/4 and the 40-150mm lenses. I ordered the 2.0 X teleconverter, so I'm looking forward to trying 120mm handheld!
Thanks Tim
Tim if the 2x is as good as the 1.4 you will not be disapointed, the latter really is amazing! @@GodwitMediaLLC
This is a excellent video.I have been using Peter Fosgard for along time He gives credit to original post in his video, the set up is sensational.CAF with or without tracking is very poor . Best to just forget it.The dot sight is very good but you must set it up correctly and ensure the dials don't move.Also CF sensitivity should be set to -2.
I'll try your suggestions, thanks
Great video thanks Tim. I made a few adjustments on my EM1 Mk2 as well as most setings are the same after the recent firmware upgrade. cheers!
Thanks for this video Tim, its very helpful and informative. I've just switched from Canon so now learning the menu of the E-M1X.
Dear Tim, many thanks for sharing, will apply some of your settings and see how it goes. Again, thanks for this great tutorial.
Tim
Just found your video on bird photography settings for the EM1X.
Extremely helpful
Thank you.
Denis
Great video, I also thinking bying Olympus, I am using Fuji Xt-3 for Landscape ( great camera ) In 2020 Olympus will release new telezoom with inbuilt teleconverter 150 to 400mm f4,5. Hope for more videos about your new Olympus.
+Finn Larsen I am waiting for that lens to. Next spring or summer it should be out. Thanks
Thank you for sharing
Tim great video. I recently changed from Canon gear after 50 years to Olympus. Have you totally changed from Canon to Olympus? I have the OMD E1 MII and have set it up very much like you have and used Peter's highlight and Shadow advice as well. Looking forward to more of your videos using the Oly.
+stephen singer yes I've completely switched the technology and the lightweight lenses sold me but, hey I only had 20 years with Canon. 😉
Good video. Very informative! Thank you!
Hi Tim, can you tell me re: the e-m1x. When you go to the IBIS settings and press info, you can then enter the lens details for stabilization. eg 400mm or 150mm. What I wish to know is, when you change Olympus lenses on the 1X do you have to each time enter the lens details so as to get correct stabilization, or does the camera recognize the attached lens and make the needed corrections automatically. Please advise. - Thank you
HI Tim, great tutorial. Please can you help with bird in flight focus points? My focus always seems out of sync - either behind or infront of the flying bird - particularly when its a white bird. Many thanks for all your help.
Adobe RGB has the same number of colours as sRGB, in JPEG they are eight bits per channel. In raw, it's recording 12 or 14 bits/channel, and the colour space choice is almost irrelevant. Unless you want JPEGs you can't display properly, use sRGB.
Tim I find this very interesting, when in picture mode on my E-M1X the first one is I-enhance, no vivid, then natural, which is what I have mine set on, then no muted, portrait, monochrome and custom, I go from natural to underwater. Like I said interesting.
Can you please make a tutorial on how to do custom AF points on the E-M1X for wild life please? Thanks
Yes I'll do that !
@@GodwitMediaLLC Thank you :)
Thanks for your informative videos, I have become a dedicated follower... coming from the Nikon D500 and Tamron 150 - 600 g2. I now use the e-m1 Mark II with the most recent firmware upgrade + the 40-150 pro & 1.4 tele - 12-100 pro AND the Pana-leica 100-400 when I need more reach... I am wondering if the new 2x teleconverter would be worth it on the 40-150 as it would give me a 600 f:5.6 and the 100-400 is f:5.6 at the 600mm equivalent..Hmmm.
I tend to leave the 40 - 150 home and bring the 12 - 100 & the Panasonic 100-400 with me when I'm out and about. Even thinking of just selling the Olympus pro as it has become sort of redundant. Have you or anybody else had a chance to use the Panasonic lens? I find it to be very sharp up to 350mm or so and good @ 400...
I just recommended the dot sight finder to the woman who is having problems finding birds through her viewfinder using a long lens..
Cheers
I just got the 2.0X and haven't used it yet with the 40-150mm zoom, but I will soon. I took a few test shots with the 2.0X and the 300mm f/4 Pro lens and the images looked sharp, so I don't anticipate any issues. Will let everyone know what I find out when I get a chance to get outside again. I confess I have no experience with the Panasonic lenses or cameras, how is the 100-400mm?
I really like the Panasonic lens, but there is a fly in the ointment, as I lose the Pro Capture low ability with a non-Olympus lens.... Still get Pro capture high though, this means I have to wade through whole lot of images but it works. Should have mentioned that in my original posting. Still thinking of getting the 2 times and see how it works out. They seem to be unavailable everywhere, bummer.@@GodwitMediaLLC
I have both the 100-400 and 300 with 1.4TC. I find the 100-400 pretty sharp up to about 300 then falls away beyond. Not a patch on the 300, but is a great travel lens so will always keep it in my kit.
😊
Jeff I just stumbled onto your channel very informative indeed. Going to be renting the E-M1X yet I’m going to be shooting alpine skiing with the subject moving towards me all the time. Curious why don’t you use back button focusing. I have shot a lot with the Sony A9 and I found using back button focusing a must because at least for me human nature at work I found my self half pressing the shutter release and the releasing it which then causes the camera to stop focusing and it would have to reacquire focusing every time I let up on the shutter release. I assume the same thing happens on the EM1X
Part of it for me is muscle memory I can push the shutter button half way down without taking the photo, after 40+ years of photography it just becomes habit. I had my Cann cameras set up for back button focus the last couple of years. I had one button for a single AF point and another one for AF Zone and that worked out pretty good. On the Olympus camera I use the back button for focus peaking, which I wanted take advantage of. Lots of variables to figure out what works best for each of us.
Just got the EM1X here in Macao,China. Just got a question I need to ask regarding the 60 FPS mode.because only the first frame of the focus is locked and it won’t continue to track so regarding bird photography wise, in what sort of situation is this mode useful instead of using the 18 FPS where every frame is tracked ?
One instance the 60 FPS setting is good for is Humming Birds. They often will hover in one spot at a flower and then dart in to feed, then back off very quickly again and hover. At 60 FPS you will get a lot more frames to choose from than at 18 FPS. Since the Humming Bird is often staying in the focus zone when feeding, you don't really need tracking (Good luck tracking a Humming Bird anyway).
Tim, you mentioned turning on peaking for AF, but as far as I can work out the peaking only works for MF. Can you please clarify if you managed it for AF as I would love it
Probably need Olympus lenses
I found out pro capture low only works with Olympus lenses
Tim, have you tried to print example A2 or bigger copy from the micro four third sensor?
No I haven't' tried to print anything yet. But, if you're worried about grain or noise, when the ink hits the paper it spreads out and most noice will disappear. We mostly see noise when we're pixel peeping.
Finn Larsen I dunno about A2 but this guy printed 48 x 14 foot with great quality:
www.joeedelman.com/artpop-street-gallery/
The most recent software technologies have made sensor size almost irrlavent.. check out Topaz AI Giggapixel & AI Clear
Look for Steve O’Nions big prints of Llandudno pier.
Great video,
Do you use back button focus ? There are numerous videos, but haven't come across any that show the set up for the E-M 1x and E-M 1.2. I am trying to use C-1 on both cameras for BBF, and M, S and A for landscape and other types of photography
Gerd Penno I have the same issue. Can’t seem to set up BBF although I have been able to figure out how to disable AF from the shutter button.
Did you work it out? I have BBF set up on E-M1.2 and E-M1.3
how do you find thr em1x over omd e1 mark 2
Seems to me that most of this has little to do with taking pictures of birds. 🐦
Hi Tim, I just got the EM 1X and want to use back button focus. I changed the AEL/AFL button to mode 3 but the shutter button half press still seems to engage focus. Do you know how to get this set up properly? Thanks so much. Love your videos!
I haven't done this I chose Focus Peaking for those buttons. Try Gavin Hoey's video on back button focus for the M2. It should work.
Thanks
Did you sort it out?
Question I know your set up is for the EM1X but can the setting also be used for the EMI Mark III?
Yes, I also did a Mark III tutorial between the two of the you should be set.
Sir If we use 300mm olympus pro lens on this camera is it going to give 600mm after including the crop factor?
Yes the sensor is 1/2 of a full frame sensor so you have a 2.0 crop factor. So the 300mm f/4 gives you an effective focal length of 600mm at f/4 Put a 1.4 tele-converter on it and you have effectively 840mm which you can hand hold and you have 7.5 stops of image stabilization.
@@GodwitMediaLLC that sounds ideal for bird photography. thanks a lot.
Enjoyed the video very much. I have a question for you I have the Olympus OMD E-M1 MkII and I use the 300mm lens but when I try to focus on a bird flying the camera just goes out of focus and I can't find the bird do you have any suggestions?
+Patricia Vishnevetsky Have you tried fewer focusing points? Also, try to find some large slow flying birds to practice on, try various focusing points and if you have focus tracking try that. I haven't used the Mark II but maybe the new firmware has the tracking. If none of this works let me know and I'll see if I can figure it out with you. Thanks Tim
I've heard that this is a problem but haven't experienced it yet, I will more after next week since I will have more time to do birds in flight while teaching the 5-Day Intensive Bird Photography Workshop at Ocean Shores. But, form what I heard, I'd try the small set of AF points, try the cross of I believe 5 AF points, then try fewer,I heard with the 9 point pattern activated the focus point jumped around a lot. There is also a custom option of setting or selecting a AF pattern, I might try this with 2, 3 or 4 active AF points to see if that helps. If I get enough experience with bird in flight next week, I'll do a tutorial on how I setup my camera for BIF. Thanks Trish, I'll get in back to you the first week of September.
@@GodwitMediaLLC I usually use single point or the five and am on C-AF but so far have missed every shot of a bird coming in or trying to seek on flying around, the camera just will not focus so I am sure I have set something incorrectly so will be extremely interested in hearing your opinion after your 5 day workshop. Thanks.
You might consider buying and using the dot sight finder... It mounts on the hot shoe and once it is calibrated you no longer use the viewfinder to follow birds in flight...
Patricia Vishnevetsky did you sort it out? I have a couple of ideas for you
Tim, I have just been reviewing my OMD EM 1X settings again. Could I ask a couple of questions please?
1) I am having a problem in consistently cycling through the AF point selections. I am sure I used to have the joystick pressed and if I turned the finger wheel it would cycle through the AF area points, now it seems to do it occasionally - could you suggest which settings I set please? (I do have the Function set for one point and five points - this works just fine).
2) Regarding the peaking settings, I have had mine set to 250 and 5 pretty much since I got the camera - but I am now questioning the wisdom of this seeing as I do not shoot jpegs. The histogram is not the raw file, the saturation contrast and colour space represent colours similar to those in a flat raw file which will be adjusted in LR that's OK but if we are trying to maximise the dynamic range I do not see the value of constraining it - just doesn't make sense to me especially knowing the raw file dynamic range will be greater than that represented on the rear screen. Do you agree or disagree???
I setup the Function 2 switch on the back of the camera setup so when I press it I can change the AF Point Selections. I have the joystick set up so when I press it straight in, it will center the AF Point so I can move the AF point quickly when I need to .
Okay, I set the restrictions on the Histogram range mainly so the highlights wouldn't get blown out. The histogram works off the jpeg, so it it isn't blown out, the RAW files will be better. I don't think this impacts negatively any of the dynamic range, since it's only protecting the highlights for being over exposed.
Does that make sense?
@@GodwitMediaLLC Thanks Tim, I do too, I just seem to recall that there was once a time when I could quickly cycle through the various AF point selections readily, going through the list seems a bit hit and miss now but for the most part I use one point or the 5 points in a cross.
Lost me at MF clutch inoperative: being able to not take hands off the rig or eye from viewfinder when a bird is embedded in foliage and you need to get to MF NOW, before it moves again out of sight, without a switch or button push, is a massive advantage of the Olympus system. So it's accidentally turned on, takes a microsecond to push it back to AF. I've taken literally tens of thousands of images of birds with this system and I can't think of a time when I missed a shot because the MF was accidentally engaged.
I believe you are in the minority. I turned my off the first time I missed a great shot at a corporate conference I was shooting, because the clutch on my 12-40mm had moved. We all have to set up our gear the way it works best for us personally.