Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark III Setup Guide For Bird Photography
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- Опубліковано 11 вер 2024
- Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark III Setup Guide For Bird Photography
Here's how I setup the M1 Mark III for bird photography a few changes from how I setup the M1X, but basically the same, since the camera menu system is basically the same!
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OLYMPUS OM-D E-M1 MARK III Camera -- bhpho.to/2QiJo7M
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Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 300mm f/4 IS Pro Lens -- bhpho.to/2wVQdW1
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MagMod MagBeam Wildlife KIt -- bhpho.to/2TCv1x9
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Great tutorial. Direct and to the point.
Awesome tutorial, watched this 3 times now, after updating and resetting my Oly! Each time I understand more for shooting birds! Thx.
Thanks a lot You presented a lot of info here, especially because I have only transitioned over to Olympus from Canon. A lot to learn. Again, thanks. I'll be a regular watcher.
I noticed that your Pro Cap settings show a max of 40 and I found out that you have to change the frame count limiter first and then (and only then) you can up your pre-shutter frames to 30.
Im going to try this, i had the same problem
Great! Love your images
Thanks for this helpful video. I am just getting into the EM1 iii and still studying the manual.
About Noise - Noise Reduction is about dark frame subtraction on long exposures - sensor heats up and so after, say, a 3 second exposure the camera takes another 3 second exposure with the shutter closed and subtracts the noise frame. Can’t be done in Topaz and is nothing to do with bird photos (mostly Astrophotography).
The RAW+Jpeg Erase is for when you take RAW AND Jpeg, and what happens when you delete the frame off the card. By default both will be deleted, but if you have it set to RAW then only the RAW will be deleted, leaving the Jpeg file still on the card. While only taking RAW it will make no difference, but if someone did want to take RAW and Jpeg, it could cause some confusion.
Thanks, I will try this.
Thanks for this video. I just got the Oly E1-iii. Can you do a video on how to set up the C1-C4 buttons.
yess please !!
Hi. This is a helpful video. Thanks. One question: I didn't see any mention of what size focus area you use. It looks like your camera is set with a focus area covering the entire grid. Is that your preference for bird photography?
Excellent! Thank you
I still have an em5-i and the basic 75-300mm lens, my em1-iii should be arriving shortly
Thank you!
My EM-1X has subject detection option, does the menu of MarkIII has it?
is the setting can use to aviation photograph Sir?
Tim, Thanks for the setup video, 1) would like to see a video for OM-D E-M1 Mark III on using the settings - I have tried both the Focus Tracking and Capture Pro withe limited success. Also, I do back button focus and use the AEL for focus control, what is the reason you use it for focus peaking? Thanks
Good timing I've been photographing hummingbirds and juncos in the backyard using pro Capture L, Silent Sequential L, and my normal settings. So I'll have a video about my findings in a week or two. I'm not sure Back Button Focusing is necessary anymore. Steve Perry did a nice video on this topic.
Oh, I forgot to answer all of your questions. I have used focus tracking when I shoot videos and it works for me there, I don't use it for still photography because I can pretty much track the birds from 20+ years of bird photography practice. I used to use back button, but don't feel like it's necessary anymore, but I use Focus Peaking for video and for still photography to ensure I'm getting a sharp image. I do a lot of photography on ocean beaches and the moisture in the air sometimes will cause the AF to not focus as sharply as I'd like. thanks for your questions.
@@GodwitMediaLLC Thanks for the update. I briefly read Steve's article last week, I do like the egonomics of it and the separation between focus and shutter still it seems more natural for me now.
@@GodwitMediaLLC I also found that if I photograph a bird with positive( +.3 stops or more) of exposure compensation and then reduce the exposure in post-processing my picture seems much sharper and if I shoot at the cameras setting or at or negative ( - exposure compensation ) and increase the exposure in post. - with the OMD EM1 Mark III. Please advise if you have had the same experience.
@@GodwitMediaLLC Interesting - thanks for the insight, I do not shoot video (although I may give it a go). If the Focus Peaking shows that you are not in focus, what do you do? Manual focus or try to autofocus again?
Hi Tim,
I am trying to improve bird photography using a newly acquired Olympus OM 1 Mark III and a Lumix 100-400 mm lens
I find very difficult to write down every thing you say in your lecture. Have you got settings you recommend for this camera (EM 1 Mark III) in
printed format.
I don't have a list of settings, sorry.
Hi Tim thanks for your info. If one is swapping between genres do these settings change or is it best to rather use the super control panel and custom buttons to access quicker and more easily?
Thanks so much for the video but .......how do I save the settings to a custom button? Please do a video on this.
Thank you for this great video.
Having been working with an EM-D EM-1 MK II setup for some weeks now (besides my pro Nikon gear) I was wondering if an upgrade to the EM-1 MK III is really beneficial and makes a difference. Any thoughts on that matter?
Thank you!
Thanks Tim for the quick setup for this area of photography.
I've setup one of my custom modes for this. I've experienced issues on the ESP metering mode. Specially when shooting birds (just photo 😉) in the blue sky, pictures tend to fade in black (only managed to get some crows staying home). Any suggestion?
I've done a few videos on exposure where I explain how to get a good exposure with ESP/Evaluative?Matrix Metering. But basically you camera will average the exposure to 18% gray, so with a dark bird and a bright sky you will need to add light to over expose, and if the bird is white and the background dark you will need to yunder expsoe. Please watch the exposure videos. Thanks
Tim, thank you for this tutorial. I set up my C1 dial to those and will be trying it out today. I ran into one problem that another viewer raised, regarding the C1 L-Settings. Regardless of the order in which I adjust them, the Pre-Shutter Frames goes back down to 10. No problem setting the Frame count Limiter to 10. Any idea what needs to be changed to allow the 30 pre-shutter frames you use?
Very interesting Video. Thank's. D1) LV-Info / LV OFF-Info can you please explain what kind of setting is ?
Tim, one other question, since I use Topaz for dealing with noise, what are the issues you see using auto-ISO instead of fixing the ISO number - using the 300 mm with 1.4 teleconverter in daylight the ISO is usually around 600 +
None, I think it's all a personal decision, with Topaz I just cleaned up an image shot at ISO 12,800 on the M1 Mark III. Part of it is a hold over because I used to fight digital noise and grain so much. Now the sensors are better and the software like Topaz is better, lotta good ways to get to a good image result these days.
Hi Tim. Thanks for the great tutorial. I have em1 mark iii and I learned a lot. I have one question.
Can you please elaborate on what you said about Continuous Low and Raw at 00:50.
I know Continuous Low is using CAF and Continuous High is using SAF. However, are you saying the format(Raw, Jpeg, or both) affects the autofocus performance as well? Would using Raw better on CAF?
(Sorry if I misunderstood.)
Thanks
Sorry if I wasn't clear. I do not think shooting RAW or Jpeg will impact shooting in or with C-AF.
@@GodwitMediaLLC Thanks for a quick reply and confirming what I understood.
Side note. I will one day buy 300mm f4. I am using panasonic leica 100-400mm which is a great lens. However it is mostly at 300 to 400mm so having a prime lens at that range makes more sense to me.
Thanks
Thank you! Aren’t you using Baclbuttonfocus?
It's just more important for me to have Focus Peaking Available.
@@GodwitMediaLLC Hi Tim and Tobias, you can have back button focus and focus peaking available at the same time on your E-M1 Mark III. I programmed my lens function button (L-Fn) to turn focus peaking on and off and programmed my AEL-AFL button for back button focus. You could also set up one of your other function buttons (such as Fn2) to magnify the image to further assist manual focus when needed. I personally prefer continuous auto-focus with manual focus active (CAF+M) since you can easily make minor focus adjustments if the auto-focus system is having difficulty (very useful for adjusting focus for partially impeded subjects or extreme contrast situations). My point being, you can set up Olympus cameras almost anyway you would like, no need to sacrifice cameras features that you may find useful.
Are these institutions also for WildLife such as Deer and Foxes
Yes. These settings with work for birds, wildlife and sports.
Why don't you choose electronic shutter? Any advantages on mechanical?
I'm going to try it more this week, but I'm not sure I need to take 60 frames per second. I'll try it with pro capture mode in the next couple of days.
@@GodwitMediaLLC i use L burst mode. So i do have focus on each frame.
@@pauliui78 Yes, I also only uuse the "L" modes with Olympus. thanks for your comments!
I have no idea what any of those buttons do even after you explained then. I just adjust the exposure compensation to -1 lol and I own 3 of these cameras
Could these settings be applied to the E-M1X ?
Yes I have both cameras pretty much setup the same
Tim, I am enjoying you videos but you move very very quickly through all of the information. Luckily we can pause and replay. Thanks for doing this for us.
Thanks for watching. I just don't want to waste anyone's time. But I'll try to slow down. Thanks for commenting
Tim, I am southern (born and bred) and cannot hear quite as fast as you talk,,,However, I use a Mac, and at the bottom of the UA-cam window is a gear symbol. If you click on it, you can adjust the playback speed of the speaker's elocution. I prefer 0.75 which slows you down just a tiny bit.
@@GodwitMediaLLC I liked your video and appreciate you putting it together, but I used more time by pausing and watching and re4watching at each step.
Hello Tim, an awful video of bird photography. Please excuse me for my English.
I own the Olympus OMD 1 MkIII in combination with the 12-100mm Pro lens. Can you help at this problem?
I want to set Custom Modes C1 (for landscapes) + C2 (for action). Now I want to set the following setup - amongst other relevant things - at quick/Super control menue:
C1 Landscape: (based on APERTURE priority) can`t press "Stabilizer off (= GREY, can`t set)
C2 Action: (based on SHUTTER priority) can`t press C-AF (= GREY, can`t set), on S (shutter) = fastest is only possible until 1/250 (instead of 2000 i do wish)
The only explanation I have:
1 Typically the stabilizer and C-AF would be turned off if I have my shutter set to Hi-Res mode.
2 C-AF could also be inactive if I don't have a lens attached or
3 the lens has a focus clutch set to manual focus or 4 I am using an adapted lens.
But:
1: The shutter isn`t set to HiRes mode.
2: Lens is attached.
3: The focus isn`t set to manual - I controlled it on the lensring.
4: 12-100mm isn´t adapted.
So normally the best explanation would be 2+3. But the 12-100m Pro lens is attached and not set with function ring to manual.
Can you say, what else to do to solve this without resetting the whole camera? Thank you, Chris
It’s a really great tutorial, but you talk so fast. It would be really nice if you had in your drop-down menu just a list of the settings that you use and where to find them! Huge thanks
Hallo Tim, this is a very interesting and useful video. But I have a big please, would you please speak a little bit slowlier, ist not easy to understand for non english speaking people what you say. There are no turorials like yours in my language.
great video just you guys make great videos but talk way too fast for the average hobbyist photographer
Bla,bla,bla,bla👎
Hello Tim, an awful video of bird photography. Please excuse me for my English.
I own the Olympus OMD 1 MkIII in combination with the 12-100mm Pro lens. Can you help at this problem?
I want to set Custom Modes C1 (for landscapes) + C2 (for action). Now I want to set the following setup - amongst other relevant things - at quick/Super control menue:
C1 Landscape: (based on APERTURE priority) can`t press "Stabilizer off (= GREY, can`t set)
C2 Action: (based on SHUTTER priority) can`t press C-AF (= GREY, can`t set), on S (shutter) = fastest is only possible until 1/250 (instead of 2000 i do wish)
The only explanation I have:
1 Typically the stabilizer and C-AF would be turned off if I have my shutter set to Hi-Res mode.
2 C-AF could also be inactive if I don't have a lens attached or
3 the lens has a focus clutch set to manual focus or 4 I am using an adapted lens.
But:
1: The shutter isn`t set to HiRes mode.
2: Lens is attached.
3: The focus isn`t set to manual - I controlled it on the lensring.
4: 12-100mm isn´t adapted.
So normally the best explanation would be 2+3. But the 12-100m Pro lens is attached and not set with function ring to manual.
Can you say, what else to do to solve this without resetting the whole camera? Thank you, Chris
I'm going to assume you mean AWESOME not awful. 🙂
Sorry, I'm not an expert in what you're trying to do, I suggest you try to contact an Olympus Technical Representative or post your question on the 4/3 forums. dpreview, fstoppers etc.
Surely - awful, Thank you for this advice.